Classic Seamaster (Omega)

Delving into my vintage collection I came across one of my old favourites – the Omega Seamaster.  This particular model according to serial number is the 1950 collection series steel version with sweep second hand.

Classic Omega Seamaster 2577-6 – Cal 351 – 17 jewel Auto

I particularly like this model as it is about as good pre-owned condition as it gets – The serial number dates it to the beginning of 1950 and it has a great condition Cal. 351 auto mechanical “Bumper” 17 jewel movement inside.  This has an early bumper rotor with a fairly short range of perhaps 300 degrees as Omega originally designed.  It has around 36 hours spring reserve which is pretty decent.  It is matched nicely by the classic detail of the outside.

Omega Cal 351 model 2577-6 17 jewel Automatic Seamaster circa 1950

It has a wonderful dial face with applied dagger batons and numerals. I note it has the original luminous ‘Radium’ dots applied to the markers (not the numbers). The hands are also still ‘Radium’ filled and and unusually (I’ve not seen one before) and amazingly the luminous infill hands, apart from being intact, are actually still visible in total darkness and this from a 74 years old watch

Then there is the sweep red coloured second hand with arrowhead pointer. Very unusual, but in closeup looks absolutely of the time – I find that just so cool!

The naturally aged patina of the dial itself gives it a nice 2-tone pan effect owing to the dial curvature and if you look closely you can see in the centre, the Omega logo directly embossed logo on to the original Hesalite crystal directly above the hand pivots (Hesalite initially named and used back in the 1940’s by Omega – which is basically an acrylic, so fairly soft but shatter proof – note there are no scratches on this one).

The case is stainless steel and in very good condition and the back is a very clean screw down original back.

The crown is original with Logo and the leather strap a standard Omega 18mm fitting, which completes the whole thing.

Dimension wise it’s just 35mm diameter and 42mm lug to lug, so a compact size for today and of course – there are many versions of the 2577 series and always good value as they are a quality and classic watch.  Just shop around for the best quality and finish you can get and you won’t go far wrong.

In short, this is an absolute classic early model Seamaster and as it’s still in good original condition I am pretty pleased to own it. For me it is a true collectors choice.

That “singular” watch

My “Single Handed” watch model choice (well this week anyway!) would have to be the MeisterSinger Perigraph, which I think embodies the best of the Modern and the Classic.  A most elegant steel cased Single Handed Date Watch.

MeisterSinger Perigraph

Whilst the rest of the affordable Single and One Hand 24hr offerings appear to offer a more modernist approach, the MeisterSinger has that classical look, that as a watch collector I just love.  What I call a “proper watch” and one that I can wear both for everyday and for evening wear – in essence a rather refined, under-stated and elegant watch.
Two sizes are available, 43mm and my personal preference this 38mm model, with it’s slightly old world Ivory coloured dial face and with the neatl date ring complication (the Date Perigraph) is about as refined as you can get.  It is also a really Traditional time piece sporting a good mechanical Automatic movement – the Swiss Sellita SW200 (similar and as good in my opinion as the ETA calibre).  With a 48hr power reserve, a full 50m Water resistance, scratch resistant Sapphire Crystal and the very precise 144 markers denoting 5 minute intervals on the outer chapter, it’s a cracking watch.

The date ring is very clear, the days nicely figured and the single hand is blued steel – showing excellent contrast and no worries reading this watch.  When the date changes it makes a nice satisfying click as it moves to the next day. The large and properly knurled crown, exhibition crystal back and decent leather strap completes what for me, so far, is my very favourite Single Handed watch.

However with reference to the previous post and the Botta series of more modernist watches, there are quite a few others on the scene – such as these shown below.

Defakto Uno, Detail & Danish Design – 24hr Single Hands

The models in the above montage are –

  • The Defakto Eins Automatic Swiss movement ETA 2824-2. At 42mm diameter Stainless PVD coated case, 9.8mm depth and 50m Water Resistance, Luminous hand and indexes with leather strap.  With 15 minute indexing, but a little clunky for my personal taste.  Note – this is Single Hand AND a 24hr watch.
  • The Defakto Detail model is a much finer affair with indexes at 5 minute intervals (short lines), 15minutes (medium lines) and Hour markers (the longest), which are very fine, so a high degree of accuracy is achieved in comparison to the Previous model. The case body carrying a Ronda Quartz 715 inside means the sizing is neater at only 6.6mm depth.  A Sapphire crystal with an inner Anti-reflection coating completes the specification and I understand this is the latest model to come out of Pforzheim, in Germany. Note – this is Single Hand AND a 24hr watch.
  • Danish Design (DD) IQ19Q820 Black Titanium Mono – again Quartz powered but with a dial design very like the others with the addition of a date window @6. Also as neater and better dimensionally to the Defaktos at 37mm diameter and only 6mm depth – quite a nice performer. Again Note – this is a Single Hand 24hr watch.

Of these three examples I think I prefer the Danish Design quality look and feel and if in the market for one of the “modern” style 24hr models, I would be looking very seriously at the Botta Uno 24 or the Danish Design.

And of course there are a few more that are much more expensive, such as Pita, Stark, Schauer, Angular Momentum and my out of reach and very expensive – Jaquet Droz Grand Heure.  But for now or until I win the lottery and at not too monstrous a price is the MeisterSinger Perigraph, which I think combines both the modern and the classic to perfection.

But really  if honest and bearing in mind my budget, it has to be the MeisterSinger every time!

One handed

Having owned a Botta Argos for a few years I can confirm these are stylish and neat watches and ones which always draw comments when worn.  So I thought I’d check out today’s models to see what’s available.
As always there’s an ulterior motive (watch collectors illness) as I’ve developed a sort of sneaking admiration for the One Handed watch and Botta have a range of models that are really attracting me.  And one of the reasons for my interest is my fixation of “legibility” or “can I easily read the time on this thing!” – and in a perverse sort of way these One Handed watches would appear to provide a pretty neat solution – maybe.

Botta Uno 24 One Handed Watch – Black Special Edition

One of my favorites so far is this Uno 24 model – the Special Black Edition, which shows a very clear display indeed with the positioning of the 24hr clock as “the day” – in other words – the time can be seen as an entire day, at a glance.
The single hand completes just one complete rotation over 24hrs and the hand virtually replicates the position of the sun as it travels across the sky in a day – very intuitive actually when you think of it.  In fact just a quick glance at the watch indicates roughly the time of day, how the day has flown by in fact and a visual take on how long to go before nightfall – instantly.

The dark lower half of the dial surface suggests evening approaching and night to follow and a very thin vertical line shows when one day changes to the next.  As the 24hr hand passes that line at the very bottom of the dial, the date changes instantly to the new day exactly as it should.
This arrangement graphically shows the entire course of a day in analog form – pretty clever I think.  And as to clarity, the very precise scaling and numerate markers used shows the time of day with amazing accuracy, certainly within 5 minutes and with a little familiarity you can bring that down virtually to the minute.
Being Botta Design of course the watch is a very neat affair, at 40mm diameter, easy to see but with only a tiny 7.5mm depth, means that the stainless case is still only 43g.  The movement is the excellent Ronda Swiss 515.24 Quartz movement and the whole dial visible under a sapphire crystal. Water Resistance at 3 ATM and the complete assembly Made in Germany.

The price is around £250 to £350 bracket +vat in the UK and comes with bracelet or strap options.  Not bad in my opinion for a Single Handed 24hr watch.

Now of course I’m in big trouble!  I do like this watch the more I speak or write about it – I told you this might cost me money!

But there are others of course that use the more conventional dial arrangement, such as the Botta Solus (below) but for me at least just don’t have that wonderful graphical progress of your day of the Uno 24.

Botta Solus 24hr Watch

More conventional display as a 24hr watch the Solus is a Titanium cased watch, 39mm diameter and that slim profile again at 4.9mm depth.  23g weight this time courtesy of the Ti casing, a Ronda 1003 Swiss Quartz movement and plane Sapphire Crystal.

A big plus however must be the Super Luminova coated hand – something my own Botta nor the Uno have and make no mistake it is a big plus.  BUT – that superb graphical, oh so clever dial of the Uno 24 attracts me so much, that I might just fore-go the luxury of waking in the middle of the night and being able to read the time on my wrist.  I’ll just have to make use of the nice digital alarm bedside clock my wife bought me some years ago – and being honest? – I use it now anyway!

Cool watches

I’ve been having a trawl round looking at various watches and noting the incredible range of styles and ideas that proliferate the market today.  It’s interesting to note the number of Fashion and Designer Companies that are into producing and/or marketing their unique “take”on watches and indeed how we read time.  They are also being taken much more seriously I think as the apparent quality seems to be  improving, though as I’ve found “quality” is to me a much maligned word today!  But for those who wish a more modern style to the simple old watch on the wrist, these models are certainly “something different” and shows perhaps the personality of the wearer in a bold light.

Anyway I hope to spotlight a few of the cool, odd, big or small and often downright interesting watches I’ve recently spotted and will feature them here and who knows I might even manage to buy the odd one (but not too odd I hope).

First off is the DIESEL DZ7250 in colored stainless steel with leather strap and one BIG watch it is too (far too big for me). . . .

Diesel DZ7250 XXL (and it is!)

Definitely not for the faint of heart.  Four separate watches in one apparently (including a chronograph, digital and two analog clocks) allows you to navigate multiple time zones without losing a second or so the adverts say and it IS big at 66mm x 57mm and 13mm depth.  A 27mm leather strap is also fitted and it has a Water resistance of 3ATM – so no diving I’m afraid, which is a pity – but there we are.
This an example of a Fashion house timepiece and pretty impressive it looks too, though for my smallish wrist, alas not a contender for me.  Diesel watches are certainly noticeable and without doubt Diesel design timepieces will get you noticed.  They also feature a huge array of functions, very modern materials and interesting colour schemes.

Italian design and pretty decent workmanship means Diesel have quite a following – not least owing to the range – and as shown here – yet another but quite different model –

Diesel DZ7130 Digital

Now this model for me is much more practical, being a nice 45mm x 38mm and with the very clear digital readout, and whilst it reminds me strongly of the very much more expensive Seiko Active Matrix EPD, this doesn’t feature ink technology, it is however still remarkably legible.  The Diesel design house touch is very noticeable here and it certainly looks good on the wrist.
It also for me is better looking and better value than the Ventura V Tec Kappa, the Junghams Mega 1000, or the Citizen Aibato M and a huge improvement on the older Casio W96’s you used to see everywhere (though of course these were a budget watch).  However this one at around £89.00 I would have to say is pretty good value if you’re in the market for a digital readout watch.

My last spotlight watch is another digital concept, but  not Diesel and in fact a much older and better known watch producer LIP – they had and still have some wonderfully innovative design concepts in time reading, as you can see with the following model – the wonderful iconic mechanical “jump hour” Mach 2000.  From a design concept of the 1970’s, a case & bracelet design by Roger Tallon, the jump hour display of Prince Francois de Baschmakoff, put together into an new concept by designer Prisca Briquet.

LIP iconic design Mach 2000

Here three separate discs for hours, minutes, and seconds rotate exposed on the dial and line up in the vertical viewing loop located at the foot of the dial.  Powered by a Swiss Quartz movement, surprisingly this watch is NOT big at all but has a very neat 35mm square case, although the wide stainless bracelet arrangement camouflages this very well.  To keep the sleek look the crown is neatly recessed into the case/bracelet at the 12 o clock position.

Known as the Mythic Metal Jump watch (in brown) it can be found for around $289.00 today with a bit of searching around.

So three designer watches and I can easily see me wearing two of them! – that’s not bad for a small wrist guy.  Don’t know about you, but I found this post quite intriguing (and I wrote it!) – and it looks as if I’ll be trawling around some more and might even devote a special page to “Designer Cool Watches” or similar, but it could easily start to cost me money!!! LOL

Omega style

Recently picked up this nice Omega Cal 1444 Quartz 6 jewel Swiss movement watch.  This is a Constellation chronograph with day and date sub-dials in a white dial with gilt zone counters model dated around 1987 in stainless steel with a solid gold bezel and sapphire crystal. It also has lume filled main hands and a center seconds sweep.

Omega Constellation Cal 1444

From the Omega International Collection which started off life in 1984, the basic premise is still around today, though the T bar is actually quite rare.  At only 35mm although a Gents watch, today it is very much a unisex item and can be worn equally by the ladies.  In fact my wife borrows it already!

Croc strapped T bar Constellation

Solid press fit back with silicon washer and 30m Water Resistance completes a neat model and is a good addition to my Omega case.

Classic 1987 with solid Gold bezel
Neat Omega Constellation 6 jewel Quartz

So what does a watch like this cost?

This one was in auction and cost under £200 which was a very, very good buy.
It is in about as good a condition as any pre-owned watch I’ve seen with virtually no scratches, a perfect sapphire crystal. Even the Omega gold sticker is still applied to the back, which is pristine with no tell tale “opening” marks that you see so often on older watches. The dial is perfect and the strap though not original is a very high quality French Crocodile leather and more importantly is a perfect match to the T bar lugs and IMO as good as the original.

The quartz movement once I opened it up was a pristine – 6 jewel, Cal 1444 M903 Swiss marked DC398.1069 which is a high quality Omega original which takes a Renata or Maxell 371 or SR920sw 1.55v silver oxide battery.

So very pleased with my purchase – but now I’ve just to pry it away from my wife!

Affordable Cartier

When most folk mention Cartier, they think that this is a product that many really cannot afford and perhaps out of reach price-wise.
But today and certainly in the world of “pre-owned” watches, this certainly is not the case.  Take the watch shown below as an example –

“Must-de-Cartier” Quartz, Vermeil (gold on silver) dress watch.

A lovely little watch in pretty much pristine condition and hardly worn at all.

This is the round cased Vermeil version (Vermeil = gold on silver) and in this case we’re talking 20 microns of 18k gold on a solid Silver (925) case.  This one as said is pre-owned and in very very good condition and whilst you can see these pre-owned models around, the prices asked vary anywhere from around £750 up to around £1200 depending on condition.  However there are also watch auctions and at these you can often pick up a real bargain – simply look carefully at the condition and use your common sense.

Cartier Strap and signed deployment clasp

This little gem for example cost me less than £350 and is complete with the original Cartier authentic Caiman strap with a fitted signed Cartier deployment clasp – so this is a bonus.
So as said, this is the round cased Vermeil (gold on silver) cased “Must-de-Cartier” Swiss Quartz dress watch.
It has a midi sized 32mm case diameter including the Cartier blue sapphire cabochon crown and very slim at 5mm depth. White patterned dial with the classic Cartier blue steel hour and minute hands giving excellent contrast, gilt Arabic numerals on the even numbers and markers on the odds, bordered by a minute track.  The glass is a sapphire crystal and the case has central “T” lugs supporting the strap screws and strap.

At 5mm depth – a very slim neat watch

Case back details give watch data such as model reference number, watch series number, the gold micron figure, a 925 Sterling Silver mark, Vermeil and Swiss made.

Quite small I suppose these days, but it is an excellent unisex size and for me with a smallish 170mm wrist, it is perfect as a dress watch.  Equally my wife on occasion can wear it too and it looks great on her as well.

Affordable classic Cartier design.

Now OK I know it’s not the most expensive Cartier (goodness these can really set you back) – but it IS a genuine Cartier, it is a decent 20 microns of 18ct Gold plate and it IS a solid Silver case (stamped 925), it’s Swiss made and allows you at VERY reasonable cost to “join the club” – a Cartier owner!

Now that can’t be bad – can it?

It’s quite possible that once you have the taste for the classic (here it is the Cartier of course) you just might start looking for more bargain pre-owned ones – maybe that “tank” version that epitomize the Cartier style more than any other and perhaps that bit more recognizable too.

And at these prices IF you can get them – it’s also lot’s of fun!

Neat Laco from Germany

Known as the Laco “Squad” watch, this is the smaller dimensioned quartz version than the larger and more common version.  At 40mm diameter as opposed to 46mm and just over 9mm depth compared to 13mm, makes for a much neater watch and one that I definitely prefer.  The heavy “articulated” lugs are quite striking and the top one shrouds and protects the large crown very well, which as you see is positioned at the 12 o’clock datum position.

Laco “Squad” quartz in stainless – Model 86 2014
The Swiss movement is the quality Quartz ETA F06.111, the case is a well made and very solid brushed stainless steel with a slightly oversize anti-clockwise unidirectional bezel.  A really excellent AR coated crystal makes the dial clarity something special as the matt black is in high contrast to the highly luminous hour markers and Super-Luminova C3 hands.  There is also a minute track around perimeter coupled with a very clear centre second hand with luminous dot showing it’s position clearly.  Simple date window @6 completes the layout.
Articulated lugs and crown protection
Water resistance is pretty good at 200 metres, assisted by the heavily knurled Screw Down crown and a luminous dot at the datum point on the bezel is another typical divers touch.
The supplied strap however is a typical diver’s rubber ribbed divers affairs that’s fine for that purpose if worn on top of a dive neoprene suit or suchlike, but I prefer more comfort these days and I changed it and teamed it up with a neater Silicon deployment strap that properly holds these articulated lugs in the correct position for the wrist.  It really makes for a very neat watch in wearing. The lugs incidentally coupled with the new deployment allow the watch to sit on a bedside table upright, so easily read (if you are a watch off sleeper) – personally I rarely take it off.
Clarity without bulk
40mm suits even a small wrist

All in all an excellent choice for a “daily beater” – it looks good, perfect size, Quartz no fuss Swiss movement, very easy to read and very comfortable to wear –

Says it all really. . . . . but I would highlight one quite superb feature. The luminous quality of this watch is without doubt the best I have even come across.

The Super-LumiNova C3 is quite exceptional!

So good in fact that it’s actually better than the and of the older LumiNova C1 coated or Tritium light source watches I have.

Update March 2025 – 

This Post was dated 2012, so 13 years ago almost to the day and as I was checking the luminance of my old Tritium light source models (I have 3) and I checked the Laco here as well.

I have three Tritium models. Two are Traser – one at (16 years old) with no light at all, the other at (13 years old) was very faint.
The other watch, a Uzi Defender (also 13 years old) is the only one which is still pretty good (incidentally it was also the cheapest!)

However as I said in this Post – the Laco luminance was and is superior to these 3 Tritium models even when I bought them new. Tritium is reliable for 10 to 12 years in practice, but after that they fade away.
I have many other luminous models and it’s fair to say that generally they’re very decent for night use. Many could be C1 Super-LumiNova, but often don’t specify)  but regardless – perhaps it’s the thickness of the C3 coating, I don’t know, but nothing yet matches this Laco.

ELKA vintage

Spotted this the other day and liked the wonderful Art Deco style and thought it might fit well in my “uncommon” watches collection.  A distinctive dial and great condition equals this ELKA 1930’s vintage watch from Amsterdam.

Elka copper dial

This Art Deco gents watch c.1930s has a chrome plated bezel with stainless steel back and is in pristine condition.  Lovely two tone khaki green/ copper dial with striking blue steel lumed hands.  The overall condition is quite excellent with only slight and even mellowing of the face – the two tone color dial is quite striking in the right light.

Inside is a 16J manual wind movement which in superb order.  I haven’t examined it too carefully, but it looks as if it could be an AS Schild movement.  ELKA stands for Eduard Louis Kiek Amsterdam, a Dutch jeweler house from Amsterdam and they were often known to use  generic Schild movements in many of their in-house watches.  The case is chrome plated with a clean stainless steel back, fixed lugs and it measures 36 mm long and 30 mm width excluding crown.  A bonus here is that this watch is a good size for it’s day, as many models from that era were much smaller, so a great watch to wear today.  There is an off green soft leather 21/22mm strap attached to the fixed lug arrangement which suits it nicely.

Copper two tone dial ELKA vintage watch
Slim profile
Pristine movement - excellent time keeper

Very pleased with this new item as it’s that bit different – is nice quality in very good condition and it wears well on the wrist.  Not in the same price league or quality perhaps as the previous purchase, but I like it because it IS that bit unusual and is in such good condition – great for my collection and one that will be worn on quite a few occasions, I have no doubt.

Jaeger LeCoultre vintage

A great era for watches of distinction for me is the 1945 to 1955 period when some of the most wonderful dress watches appeared.  Moving away from the rectangular ’30’s and ’40’s styles towards the round case watches that are probably still the most common today.  Here is a beauty – a solid 18ct Rose Gold Jaeger leCoultre from around 1949-1952 era in perfect condition.

Jaeger LeCoultre 18ct Rose Gold vintage dress watch

This watch has an oyster colored dial with applied gold markers, with an inner ring showing Arabic numbers at 3, 9 and 12, with gold dagger hands, sub second dial and an acrylic glass.  The case is hallmarked on the lugs as 18ct gold and the watch is 34mm diameter (35mm with crown), so a most sensible size in amongst the oversize stuff that seems to be around these days and very wearable.

The back is unmarked and pristine and the watch is fitted to an alligator leather strap and is in about as perfect condition as any pre-owned vintage watch I’ve seen and a worthy addition to my vintage collection.  I have two vintage collections actually – the first comprises items I may pick up at local auctions or fairs, hopefully at low prices and mostly are simple vintage pieces and where the maker does not influence me greatly, but for whatever reason they take my fancy, though obviously I look for reasonably good examples.  The second collection however is for more collectable pieces and of higher quality basically, and here Jaeger LeCoultre certainly fits this category.

Additional images –

Clean back – no inscriptions
Classic Jaeger LeCoultre dress vintage

The problem with my second vintage collection is of course – the cost!  Invariably it means that I have to sell some of the lesser ones to afford to stock my more upmarket display, but that’s life I suppose and part of the fun of collecting.  You get what you can afford at the time and at other times you build up the modest collection as a bank – to be used later when the “must have” item comes along –  and it keeps the watches moving on and gives others the chance to enjoy them for a while.
I’ll post as and when – I have the time!

Xemex XE 5000

A new addition to my Modern Collection is this neatly designed Swiss made Xemex XE 5000, which I have been looking at for some time as it meets the most important criteria I require for an everyday watch.

Beautifully simple design, large clear hands with lume infill, day and date with great dial contrast and excellent readability – and with the bonus of articulated lugs can fit my smallish 170mm wrist perfectly.

Xemex XE5000

Designed by Ruedi Kulling, this watch simply shouts “design” and whilst initially looking minimalist, is in fact very practical and to my mind pretty good looking too.  At 40mm diameter and 12mm depth it is not a large watch by any means, though the beautifully polished and satin fished case plus the heavy lugs with the large bracelet screws, makes it look much larger that it actually is.
With the solid stainless steel (316l) crystal screw down back with crystal exhibition window inset it is rated as 50m water resistance, assisted by the side screw down and recessed crown – a neat feature allowing the watch to have a very clean profile indeed.

On the wrist too is manages to fit even a small wrist with the movable lugs contributing to the over all “fit” of this watch very well and coupled with the high quality rubber butterfly bracelet, which is adjustable.  I say adjustable as like many straps of this design it requires cutting to shorten if wrists are small.  Not an issue in itself but if selling the watch on at any time, this is a pity for large wrists as a new strap will have to be acquired.

Perfect fit – automatic Day Date Xemex 5100.03 model
ETA 2836-2 with modified rotor

Note the well proven ETA 2836-2 Swiss movement which has a Xemex modified drilled rotor.  Interestingly the watch is signed by the designer “inside” the exhibition glass back.

The movement appears to keep OK time (perhaps a little fast on first usage I have to say) and generally in keeping with this movement though whether the drilled rotor improves accuracy is rather debatable – and the spring reserve is as expected at about 42 hours.

As to the dial – it is an excellent contrasting arrangement with luminous hands and markers and the typical Xemex trademark red sweep second hand.  The day and date are @3 and highlighted in white and is clear to read.  Over the dial is a curved sapphire crystal glass.

This particular design XE5000 was a winner at the “Golden Balance Wheel” awards in 2006 and is still currently available at a reasonable price inclusive of a 2 year Guarantee.

My final verdict on this watch is that it’s a fairly well priced “mid range” model, a little different from the mainstream, well made within this price bracket and actually quite similar in quality to the Traser model I own.  It is excellent to read, clarity being a strong point of the dial design, the rotor movement is relatively quiet and it’s comfortable to wear.

It’s also not been off my wrist for about the last fortnight, so I must like it. . . .as a daily beater at any rate.