Update of Eterna·Matic from 1973

This is an update from a Post I did in 2015, brought about today by my re-organising and relocating my watch storage ideas – and as I saw it, thought I’d check it over. Always worth checking for any errors or incorrect info made at the time, and update on it’s condition and any other images I have, I can add.

Occasionally I visit Antique Fairs, mostly as an accompaniment to my Wife who’s into Art Deco, so I take the opportunity to seek out any Watch sellers that happen to be there.

Eterna-Matic 2002 from 1973 — Eterna·Matic 2002 from 1973

Anyway, trawling around the Fair and in amongst the “house clearance” stuff and quite a few watches that obviously lived their lives in boxes full of old nails, I did come across a guy who actually had some decent stuff. His prices were the sort of prices I understand – he’s a watch guy – say no more! and we got on.

Quite a few decent models there too, from Jaeger LeCoultre to Omega to Rolex and so on, but the one that caught my eye was this lovely super condition Eterna·Matic 2002 from 1973. It simply stood out as one of those very good but understated Brands and this one as good today as the day it was produced. The case is that lovely cushion/tonneau shaped ’70s style and in really good condition with no corrosion or plating loss.

Perfect original dial - not bad after 43 years! — Original dial – as good as it gets.

The excellent mechanical movement is the Calibre 12824 or (ETA 2824) automatic date, which beats along at a very smooth 28,800 a/h frequency. The description “sweep” seconds hand really does apply here.

The serial number is scribed on the movement, as is the Eterna·Matic name, Brevet Swiss (Swiss patented). The movement condition is also excellent, the rotor sweet and smooth and the watch dial is something to be very pleased about. The watch back is screwed stainless steel with an intact near perfect condition rubber gasket seal and engraved case number.

Approximately 38 mm wide (39 mm including the semi-recessed Crown) by 37 mm lug to lug and the wrist shot is self evident – pretty much perfect. The Crown is part shrouded by the neat underside chamfered shaping of the case and a slight indent on the top/side of the case.

The dial is really good – the gold hands and baton markers crisp and clear, the dial’s vertical brushed Gold texture background and wonderfully light contrasting outer index a total delight and all original. Note the Crown – is topped with the 5 protruding balls logo and matches the dial logo. The strap is a 19 mm wide non-original (the old one was done) Condor in a soft flexible Buffalo Calf which matches up very nicely.
Watch dimensions – just about ideal for me or indeed anybody today despite the penchant for large watches, this just fits perfectly.

As good as it gets on the wrist! Makes some modern watches look bland! (2015

The watch functions smoothly, the date change crisp and the date wheel is in perfect condition and it is one very accurate movement, as was intended.

The Eterna-Matic Automatic Cal 12824 - 28,000 beats — The Eterna·Matic Automatic Cal 12824 – 28,000 beats (2015)

Interesting model this as it started off life in 1972 (Eterna have been around sine 1856) and it was with this Eterna·Matic named model that the Company re-introduced itself to the world.
It was a bit of a revelation in the Watch Industry as it was the first watch to wind itself automatically by means of ball bearings – self polishing too, which reduced friction losses considerably and as a result produced a remarkably accurate movement. They even offered a Ladies model with the same set up – and that was something really new.

Eterna·Matic 1973 automatic – (image 2024)

And so here it is in 2024 after 51 years and looking great! – now that has to be quality. And as to value? Well let’s just say that I was VERY pleased at the time I bought it. . . .
This is not the first Eterna·Matic in my collection – and it won’t be the last, I’m sure.

Screw down back & semi-recessed crown (image 2024)

Note –As a brand Eterna today is often forgotten about by the mainstream, which is an oversight in my opinion as their range of models are both technically interesting and varied.

Models such as the Adventic which features the Eterna in-house Calibre 3843 with their Eterna Spherodrive mechanism (ball bearing mounted barrel) or the hand wound Madison big date (one of my favourites), which features an 8 day Calibre 3510 with a serially coupled pair of spring barrels working in tandem to deliver 192 hours of power thanks to that Spherodrive system. This is a hand wound model that only requires to be wound 3 times a month!

So plenty of innovation from Eterna and certainly should always be a consideration if looking for a more individual watch today. I hope to run a Post at some point on the range of models currently available

Note – The original Post is still on the main Posts section, but as I’ve now updated it, I’ll delete it from there. There is a copy of the Post in the Vintage gents section and I’ll update that one with this update as I go along.

My 480 CW new images

Had a mental block today and couldn’t remember what movement my 18ct gold Jaeger Lecoultre dress watch had. (my memory not as good as it was!). So, had no choice but to unsnap the back off to have a look.

18ct Gold Jaeger LeCoultre gents manual wind – circa 1950

Of course it shows the movement as the cal. 480 CW (how could I forget?) and the serial number dates it I think to around to early 1951 (or maybe late 1950?). I should have known as I’m relocating my collection from boxes to drawers over the next week or so and it was in my box marked 1945 – 1955, so what can I say?

I remember I did that as the watch was sold as 1949 and I gave it some leeway, though I was pretty sure it was early fifties. Anyway, at the time I told myself to check, but apparently never did. Probably as I discovered at the time JL were and still are, touchy about publicising serial numbers/dates. Back then they charged a fee that for me I thought was a bit steep (just checked and it’s now up around £250!) – so I’ll happily go with the dates I’ve decided after checking some JLs for sale, where the dates were given – and checked my serial No. against these – and I’m close enough.

Jaeger LeCoultre Cal. 480 CW manual wind

In my photo I’ve blanked out the serial number, but I can say it was 6 digits starting 82, so maybe that’ll help others with a rough guide.

I did wonder in passing as to what it’s value would be in comparison to when bought, not that I have any intention of selling but it’s always nice to know.
Certainly when I look at todays pre-owned watch auction prices for what are relatively ordinary watches, it appears most have have trebled, though I’m very sceptical as to their true worth.

However, Jaeger LeCoultre is a “name” and renowned for their high quality. My one here is in superb condition and is 18ct solid gold, so I’m pretty sure based on the general increase, it should easily mange a threefold increase. So that’s nice!

This is something I never really thought about when I first started collecting, as I bought models that I liked, regardless of brand or for any investment reason. I bought what I liked and within what for me, I thought “affordable”, however subjective that is and I wanted simply to wear them.

However, with the inflated prices being asked today for some pretty mundane everyday models, maybe in retrospect I should have considered it.
But it is what it is and if it does manage to value at 3 x times my outlay, then great – but I’m not considering selling.

So, this Post – just an update to add a couple of images taken this week (March 2014) of this iconic brand and my elegant Cal. 480 which is a bit of a classic.
This LeCoultre is one of a select number I used to wear at functions and dressy holidays (not so many these days!) as it’s just such a delight to wear – and what’s always surprised me, are the number of people who actually notice it and comment. It seems there are folks around who actually make a point of looking at what watch you have (maybe they want to get out more !).

To illustrate – in Berlin, Germany a few years back I actually got an offer for it, quite out of the blue when in a meeting – but I declined the offer.

Then a few weeks later in Budapest, an ‘older than she looked’ lady stopped me and asked me for the time AND made me an offer. But I was old enough to realise this offer was for something else entirely – and before you jump to conclusions – I declined! 😉

My wife, who was just across the street looking at a shop window, came over to re-join me and asked if I knew this woman –
I said, “No, she was just asking for the time!” and said no more.

I’m stopping this Post now, before things get out of hand . . . . .

Something about vintage – Trebex

One of the nicest watches to wear is this 1948 9ct gold TREBEX, with it’s superb overhung centre sweep second hand and one of the most unique pointer styles I can remember seeing on a watch. I have heard this particular model was referred to as an excellent “Doctor’s” watch In Japan, no less! Perhaps not officially, but as the seconds index is fully blocked in, coupled with the wonderful seconds hand made pulse timing very, very easy. It IS however VERY rare indeed to find it.

There is some confusion about the origins of this brand, though the horological trade mark index (the Mikrolisk data web site) does have it listed as a sub brand of the Milex Watch Company. They were registered in Switzerland in 1938 along with Elem under their trade mark appropriation data.

Swiss Trebex 9ct Gold Gents watch 1928 vintage. — Swiss Trebex 9ct Gold Gents watch 1948 vintage.

The watch case is 34.5mm diameter which is quite large for the period and had what was termed as “fluted” or “fancy lugs”.

The hand wound mechanical movement is an A S Schild 17 jewel calibre 1351 and runs perfectly and in fact a very good time keeper.

I fitted it to a green lizard strap which seemed to suit it complete with a rounded vintage gold buckle and it is a delight to wear and often to be seen on my wrist of an evening.

No idea of the value of this watch at all, but it is what it is and so far I’ve not come across another with this particular dial. I have found only one with what appears to be a very similar case including the “fluted” lugs, but not with the same seconds/minute closed index OR that amazing seconds pointer hand.

So, to me it’s worth having basically for it’s apparent rarity and the fact, I like it very much and often wear it. And that surely is what it’s all about.

Something about vintage – Lord Elgin

The main reason I collect vintage watches is simply because of their look. And yes, generally they are smaller than today, but not to be confused with ladies models, which when these were produced were very much smaller. But that doesn’t mean they look feminine on a gent’s wrist, not at all, but it does mean that they are amazingly comfortable and to my mind, look great.

Take this 1947 Lord Elgin, which is not quite as old as I am, but at 76 years old it is still working perfectly, keeps reasonable time and has a power reserve that lasts easily from day to day.

This model has the 21 jewel Cal. 670 manual wind movement, adjusted to 3 positions.

It has a lovely copper dial with gold hour and minute hands, plus a sub-seconds dial @6 also with a gold seconds pointer. A minute index is nicely configured around the dial and the detail is really very good indeed.

This model also has wonderful fully articulated “fancy” lugs (a cute and correct quaint term of the day) with nice engraved work at the case ends. The watch is in a Wandsworth Gold Filled case and the entire look is excellent, as is the condition.

Note the “adjusted in 3 positions” – this means that when produced, it actually had an accuracy goal right from the start.
Many watches are not adjusted at all for accuracy, but for these vintage watches it was a good thing. Different levels of accuracies could be graded, such as 2 positions or 5 positions and this means simply that the watch was tested (duh!) in different positions, such as crown down, crown up and so on. Because wearing on a wrist, the watch ends up in many different positions, so it shows an attempt has been made right from the start, to minimise inaccuracy from a positional point of view at least.

There are actually two other main factors affecting accuracy, such as temperature and then the mainspring effect, or “isochronism”, which is caused by the spring unwinding as it runs. For example it might be 2 or 3 seconds fast in the morning, but later in the day maybe 3 or 4 times that. So to try and regulate that “rate” is another way of improving accuracy.

But this watch at least has had some positional adjustments carried out, which is a good indicator of decent quality movement wise.

However, the main point of this Post is much more basic.

I simply wanted to show how good a true vintage sized watch can look on a gents wrist (the gent being me!) 😉 and I think it looks great and it wears great, which was and is still the main reason for my vintage watch collecting.

Note – The dimensions of the watch are 21mm across (add 1mm for the crown) x 45mm total lug to lug including articulation (the case is actually 27mm lug to lug) and the curved case is approximately 7mm thickness including the high domed crystal, which is a feature on many vintage watches of this period.

I’m going to do a few more of the vintage watch Posts, since I re-organised my watch storage ideas recently. I have a pile of leather strapped models waiting to be re-located in new cabinets and I’m cataloguing them too, so they are to hand.

My Tissot Two Timer

Interesting watch, the Tissot Two Timer and this one dated to mid 1980’s and by the number of different configurations, this Tissot model reflects both the Swatch ideals and the new Asian digital reality of the time, but in their own style. I actually have another Two Timer model that I may Post at a later date, but I Post this one first as it’s quite a rare one. The TTT (as I call them) models were relatively new tech for the time, as they were Ana-Digi models with an unusual feature of using just a single multi-functional crown. The control module sets and adjusts the analogue time and the digital functions, which indicate in the single line digital display.

Tissot Two Timer 1980’s Analogue/Digital Alarm/chrono (note – Alarm is shown as set)

The (adjustable) digital functions featured are; Digital Time, Seconds & Date, Weekday & Date (auto-calendar), Timer, 2nd Time Zone, Chronograph and, Alarm. Each is selected and adjusted by the single crown, which is still today a bit of a rarity. Analogue and digital can be synchronised too and the digital display can also be switched OFF.
I have just a few models that utilise single crown multifunctionality apart from the Two Timers. One that immediately comes to mind is my 1999 Breitling Aerospace, which may well use the same module. So, this very affordable 40 year old vintage watch, is in very good company.

And the single crown system is very good. Basically there are 3 positions. Press the crown IN (spring action) it selects function changes and also switches the Alarm on or off. Crown position A (normal) rotates either way and moves the line marker under the digits to select the required function. Position B – (one click OUT) is used to alter or select the digits on the function selected – then again rotate the crown in either direction. Note that speed of rotation moves either the hours (fast) or the minutes (slow) and so on, or month, day and date etc.

Anyway, on this Two Timer, all functions operate flawlessly and the digital display is as good as it gets with no bleeding or fading, which is a real bonus on any vintage Adigital watch with a digital display (a weakness of early digitals).

Image shows a Tissot Two Timers collection for sale in 2007

However, the main reason for my interest in this particular 1980’s – 1990’s Tissot Two Timer model is because of it’s rarity.

And this is totally owing to it’s colourful and rather funky overlay dial layout.
A fact that’s very obvious by it’s absence in this great picture of a fabulous Tissot Two Timer collection offered for sale some years ago.

Whilst I’ve also seen many variations on the theme with around 20 different 1st generation of the Two Timer up to maybe 1995, plus more variations with the 2nd generation models – I’ve only seen this particular one once before and as these pre-owned models change ownership every so often – who knows, maybe this is the one?

Update – I have actually seen one for sale in Singapore since I Posted this.

For anyone interested in Tissot Two Timer models, there are a few (and just a few) of pre-owned ones around, mostly the more common dial layouts, such as the vertical striped face or skeleton, which seem popular. However, fully working pre-owned ones are very much more scarce.

Note the small battery hatch – similar to Swatch – very neat.

As said, this particular model is a rather colourful and quirky dial layout with thick white coloured (I call loony) hands plus an overlay of quite jazzy numerals and markers – I love its different look from the many others I’ve seen. So I’m very pleased to have it. Plus, it has the original stitched leather strap as well and whilst obviously worn, it’s still OK to wear. However, I do have another strap I obtained recently if and when this one gives up. I note later versions have moved from leather to rubber straps – which doesn’t do it for me I’m afraid

The watch is quartz powered and the battery is accessible via a battery hatch on the rear (see image). And the all important crown is well knurled which makes it easier to turn for adjustments.
Watch dimension are really good at around 28mm width (add crown just under 30mm) and the case thickness is very neat at just 7mm. The case is also curved with a flat back, so looks very neat on the wrist.

ETA 958-333 7 jewel module (available), but unknown if it would be a replacement.

So, as often the case, I find many vintage models preferable for all sorts of reasons – and fortunately, as said, they can still be found – and can be (but not always) at reasonable prices.

A little unsure as to the movement module used in this Two Timer, but it appears to be a variation of, or similar to, the ETA 988.332 module in my Breitling Aerospace. Perhaps the ETA 958.300 series with one digital window.

The module is part of the Swiss ETA Flatline series and information can be found online. However, little information appears available since 2009, but I have seen complete 958-333 modules , but I would not assume these can be used as a replacement.

A few other watch brands have utilised the ETA Flatline series of modules in addition to Breitling, such as Bell & Ross, Rado, Victorinox Chrono and Butler, so obviously well regarded.

2 x Two Timers, same model, different year.
Strap, buckle and dial cosmetic change.

The Tissot Two Timer was never an expensive model, but it was in my view an important one as it not only competed, but matched Asian competition at that time. Along with the introduction of the new Swatch Brand (Tissot being a founder member) this offered a proper well established quality Swiss Brand to customers at a crisis time in the European (Swiss watch) Industry.

So, to Tissot – Founded in 1853 in Le Locle in Switzerland, then allied to Omega – becoming the Omega Tissot Brand from around 1929. They further expanded with the amalgamation in 1983 of what was known as the SSIH-ASUAG & SMH (the Swiss names are too long winded for me to spell out) and finally SMH became a new Group known as the Swatch Group. Today, of course a huge player in the watch industry, with a membership of many major and still independent Swiss Brands, such as Tissot themselves of course.

Anyway, that’s my funky Tissot Two Timer and I love it, both for it’s 1980’s modernist design and to my mind, under-stated place in the watch world and the fact that on the wrist, it just looks great!

I also show here in this image, my other Tissot Two Timer model. This is another D.377 model, not the same year, with another dial layout, strap and buckle and a different look. Note – Later versions of the D. series have an altered case and lug design which necessitates a completely different strap, often rubber. Also the battery hatch is no longer there so the back has to be unscrewed to replace the battery.

Note 1 – Instructions are available here – https://www.manualslib.com/download/863198/Tissot-Twotimer.

Note 2 – Two Timer modules feature an auto-calendar, though this year (2024) being a leap year, with 29 days in February, I manually changed the date accordingly. Fortunately this is very, very easy to change.

The Terra Cotta (Swatch)

I suppose Swatch watches are known more for their very affordable, reliable and good quality Swiss Quartz models, which started off life back in 1983 as a result of the Quartz revolution, basically from Asia and the inherent danger to the Swiss mechanical models at that time. A response was required and hence the Swatch appeared – sometimes referred to, or maybe popularly called, the Second Watch or SWatch. A model that was colourful, very affordable and also very reliable and with great Swiss Quartz timekeeping too.

However, back in the early days Swiss watches really were famous for mechanical movements, not Quartz, so a few years after the Swatch revolution, for that’s what it was, they also produced Swatch watches with mechanical movements, manual and automatic and always of a dependable high quality.

The Terra Cotta (SAK402) is part of Swatch’s “Original Automatic” family, a legacy watch if you will, which appeared in 1996, and this one completely original – with a very decent 23 jewel automatic Swiss movement. This is visible through the full “exhibition” clear back. The plastic case is 36.7mm diameter which is a rarity in itself and not a case size currently available.

On the dial, there’s a neat viewable Date indicator, via a wheel and pointer arrangement, that just sets it apart from the mainstream. And yes, a simple change to the more common date window, but rather nice, as viewing it, you can sort of confirm your place in the month.

The red coloured centre seconds hand, defines it’s movement heritage, as it doesn’t tick each second as a quartz movement does, but rather has a smoother “sweeping” motion, with a smooth rapid tick.

Terra Cotta – 23 jewel Swiss Auto movement.

The original strap on this model is of red leather (not plastic), which rather compliments the dial colour and although a bit frayed now, is still OK to wear. I like that as it shows this watch was wrist worn and loved – and to me, this means it was a “daily beater” for the owner and that’s a big plus in my book.

This one may well have been a “home buddy” as it came by way of Zurich in Switzerland and now it’s on the travel trail with me. Though later this year it’ll be back in it’s old stomping ground, as I tend to visit the middle countries of Europe every year. There are no better places for good watch hunting, new or pre-owned.

These were and still are produced in amazing colours and styles and most were Water Resistant, even the Quartz models with their small “hatch” fit battery.

The cases were made of light weight plastic, so almost unnoticeable on the wrist, were it not for the bright colourways they use in an almost infinite range of patterns and dials. Today they often use “Bio materials”, allegedly more kind to the planet, but the philosophy remains the same. And movement wise, so confident are they these days, some movements are completely case sealed – no repairs possible – and in the rare event it stops, throw it away and get another one.

While I’m on about Swatch, I checked out another model that came to my notice, though tempted, have not bought (yet?)

SwatchOverTheWaves – odd title, but that’s Swatch Quartz for you.

This is the SwatchOverTheWaves, a diver style Quartz powered model – with an amazing 200m Water Resistance. I just love the colour combinations, which seem to work very well.

It will certainly be seen as a statement piece either in or out of the water!

Typical Swatch Quartz battery hatch. Note water resistance of 200M

So, whatever the reason Swatch are still managing to produce affordable models, both quartz and mechanical, in amazing colours and styles and most, believe it or not, are indeed Water Resistant, which I find surprising with that small “hatch” rear fit battery.

A success story no doubt and when you might assume a high price for a Swiss watch, these are very, very affordable. They’ve not only managed to compete but some would say surpassed that original fear in the early 1980’s that they would be over-run, by this new cheap technology.

Not so – and in my opinion, Swiss watches still reign supreme. In fact it’s a delight to browse through the current and vintage ranges available today as there’s always something new – and something you can afford!

Note – If you need to change a Swatch strap, make sure you get the correct size and remember they are not held in by “spring bars”. Swatch straps are sometimes measured (but not always) from the outside edge of the outer strap loops or between the outer edge of the case lugs.
However, it is fact that straps can also be measured simply at the widest part, where it meets the case – so be very careful which method is used by the retailer.

To remove the strap, you need a small pointer, such as the small round end of a watch strap removal tool (or Swatch’s own tool) – make sure it’s a slightly smaller diameter than the “straight pin” which will slide through the case lug, the centre case lugs and the strap’s three loops – then gently, from one end, push out the pin. Either use pliers or the Swatch tool to grab the other end and finally pull it out.
Note, I said ‘gently’ – It is important especially if a vintage Swatch watch as if it has a plastic case, it may be brittle, so could easily crack, so don’t force it, but gently does it. Once the pin is out, put the new strap in position, then ‘gently’ push in the pin again. You may have to wiggle the strap slightly as you push it into place, through the first plastic case lug, then the two guides covering the centre of the strap – all in a line, then into the last case lug. Make sure the pin is not protruding and that should be it.

You can also see how to manage this on many U tube videos – such as this one – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6wj95R9BXE

BUT – word of warning –
When it comes to an old vintage Swatch model (such as the Terra Cotta) , the original strap fitting with the trademark 3 x loops lug fitting may be similar – it could be smaller.
And the issue here is, that newer strap loops are larger and wider and may NOT line up or fit in with the original case/lug separations. They are also much thicker at the lug end, than vintage ones, so even if you managed to cut/modify the new strap to fit, so you could refit the retaining lug pin – it could look oversize and clumsy.
In the case of my Terra Cotta here – I’m fortunate the original strap has still got a bit of life in it, so I will not be trying to change it any time soon.
(another option of course is to find a true vintage Swatch for a cheap price and if it has a decent strap – consider swapping the strap)
Anyway, if it does fall apart – I’ll look at my options then and not before.

Orfina “Rocket” 1947

Had some fun with this quite rare Orfina 1947 watch, with it’s quirky case design, though inside the movement is a A.S Schild Cal.1977 manual wind, which is pretty decent having been in production from the early 1940’s to the mid 1960’s. It has 17 jewels and a 44hr power reserve, with an incorporated Incabloc suspension system.

Orfina “Rocket” with original strap screw (now lost).

However, this watch is quirky case wise and with it’s odd spring-bar strap dimensions, very tricky to replace the strap, which in this case was not original, modified badly to fit and in very poor condition. The case is 40mm top to bottom, but the upper buckle end strap spring-bar is just 12mm in length and the lower spring-bar somewhat larger at 18mm.

Odd lug widths makes strap fitting a challenge.

You can either use a, 18mm strap, cut down (drastically) to fit the upper case 12mm bar, then the normal 18mm strap tail on the lower bar, but believe me, that option looks really, really, odd. Basically, as the case is sharply pointed, it doesn’t sit parallel to the strap. It just, at the top of the case, seem as if someone has “butchered” the strap to fit.

The other and for me, the preferred option, is to use a 12mm strap on the top bar, which looks really neat. Then use the 18mm strap tail (using two straps of course – of 12mm and 18mm widths) on the lower bar where the case is wide. In both cases then, the straps look right as they fit at the case neatly.

Then carefully taper the 18mm strap tail end down to 12mm to allow it to slide into the 12mm buckle. I realised I’d need to ensure the taper was down to 12mm before the first (tightest) strap hole, to allow for different wrist sizes.
The straps also had to have no side stitching, as I’d be cutting the sides away for a good length of the strap and I found the unstitched Di Modell black leather Calf straps were perfect and great quality.

The old strap, which was not original, was unevenly cut at the top, as whoever had fitted it, had used a 16mm strap, probably in an attempt to minimise the upper and lower width differences. But, the lower strap, also 16mm didn’t fit the 18mm spring-bar and looked just plain wrong.

I now know how difficult it is to cut a taper in a small leather watch strap, without going off course – It’s tricky!

So, best reading glasses on, a hard wooden chopping board, a 12mm strap as a template, a tight grip and my old Stanley knife – and cutting as carefully as possible PLUS a lot of luck – and job done! AND it worked out pretty well!

Another aspect was tricky as although both straps were the same Maker, the strap thickness was different, the larger 20mm width being twice the thickness of the 12mm. But, once the larger tail end 20mm strap was tapered and fitted, it looked just fine.

The determining factor of this, of course was my Wife, who despite the difference in thickness and flexibility (I’m talking watch here!) managed, with some ease, it has to be said, to fit it to her wrist and she is delighted with it.

It may be noted that the upper strap, owing to the pointy case, has to be screwed to the case, to stop it being a sharp and lethal instrument, sticking out from the wrist! However, as these things happen – somewhere along the way I managed to lose the original screw, which was large headed ( and yes, that’s it in the very first image) but I’ve managed temporarily to fit a small headed one. I will change that as and when I find one suitable.

Given a quick service & clean, straps fitted – now a nice addition to my collection. Job done!

Elgin Art Deco 1928

Another Ladies vintage watch in my collection is this nice 1928 Elgin Art Deco model in 14k Gold with a the original 15 jewel movement. The fact that this is working perfectly after nearly 100 years, is a testament to Swiss watch movements of the day.

I particularly like this model owing to the enamel decoration of the dial bezel/top face, which nicely highlights the figured Elgin marked dial. Not water resistant of course as this was a hinged snap back case and the crown arbor design was via a quite large case entry. The crown is also very easy to use, being quite large.

As was usual at this time, especially in Ladies more fashionable designs, the case has engraving all around the top and side of the case and the case back is perfectly plain.

Very similar to the Elgin ‘Parisienne’ range of models, in regards the use of enamel decoration, though in the case of this particular model, not sponsored by any particular fashion designer of the day. The Parisienne models of course were closely coupled to the famous French Fashion Houses of that period and I have the pleasure of owing quite a few, or my Wife does . . . .

I like the enamel designs, simply as they lift the usual engraved features to another level often by adding colour and texture. Some feature quite inspired cloisonné decoration on the face design, which for me adds even more interest and appeal.

Elgin produced great watches from 1864 and ceased trading in 1968, so over 100 years and this particular model is 94 years old today and, as I said at the start of this Post, an absolute testament to the inherent quality of mechanical watches – and I don’t see this one stopping any time soon!

Classic Ladies LeCoultre

Classic LeCoultre –

Original LeCoultre ladies fancy bezel – c1954

However, this model is NOT the more popular and later Rendez-vous, which has a rotating bezel with a dot marker – a tricky marketing feature, where the Lady moves the bezel around the dial, denoting the number of hours to the “Rendez-vous”.

This is the earlier fixed fancy wide bezel version of around 1954 and without jewels, in 14 carat gold vintage cased LeCoultre in original untouched condition. Inside is a manual LeCoultre signed movement, a silver dial, though now with aged patina and I’ve fitted a newer leather strap, as the old one fell to pieces. It would appear that the previous Lady owner wore this pretty constantly.

Why I purchased this model was simply that you don’t often find an older LeCoultre ladies watch in such truly original condition, which for me, makes this rather special. Date wise this is from around 1954 and this particular model (different strap) is listed in the Thirty-Eighth edition Complete Guide Watches, Gilbert, Engle & Planes.

The unique button markers are an integral part of the case and are situated surround the small original acrylic crystal covered dial. I also noted the winder is original – so often these are replacements with watches of this age. The watch also runs perfectly and keeps very good time and according to my Wife, is neat to wear and a nice size.

I may end up managing a sympathetic clean and polish, but don’t really want to spoil the look of age and obviously a well loved watch, so the final decision has to be my Wife’s – and I think she likes it just as it is.

As with many auctions, this one was bought at a hammer price well below the US estimate, so I’m happy with it – plus the fact – where do you get another one and doesn’t it look good on the wrist.

Longines vintage

Another Longines vintage watch from the 1950’s.

This midsize 30mm diameter, manual wind 23ZS 17 jewel movement model with it’s amazing fancy lugs is one of my favourites. The lugs are much more substantial than many of this type, being very solid. The D&A watch case is nicely polished in 14K filled Gold, and the dial has a black face with an inset machined inner, the hour, minute and centre seconds hands in matching gold, as are the applied arrowhead markers. A Gold filled snap back cover and a size 18 black lizard leather strap completes the item.

Longines Calibre 23ZS centre seconds sweep.

Quite an expensive watch of it’s day and the 23ZS movement one of their great calibres, with 18000 a/h and a Power Reserve of 44 hours, this model is ticking away, keeping very good time after 65 years. A darned sight more efficiently than I am!

I note this model has a snap back/base which when removed still holds the movement within it. To remove the movement it entails further and careful prying apart from the case base. I have not removed the movement here as I don’t wish to disturb it, but I show a image from a web source.

Model entry in Shugarts Complete Price Guide Edition 38.

Note – This model was one of a series and this version is featured on page 918 of the “2018 Complete Price Guide to Watches” Edition 38 by Gilbert, Planes, Engle, Gilbert & Shugart. The other model shown is the sub-seconds version, with diamond markers.

The watch is in very good condition, possibly refurbished to some extent over the period and the movement shows some tarnishing, but not enough to cause any issues. It keeps pretty decent time showing perhaps a minute slow near the end of it’s power reserve of 44 hours. The crown is a little stiff, but other than that, a very nice addition to my vintage Longines collection.