Update of Eterna·Matic from 1973

This is an update from a Post I did in 2015, brought about today by my re-organising and relocating my watch storage ideas – and as I saw it, thought I’d check it over. Always worth checking for any errors or incorrect info made at the time, and update on it’s condition and any other images I have, I can add.

Occasionally I visit Antique Fairs, mostly as an accompaniment to my Wife who’s into Art Deco, so I take the opportunity to seek out any Watch sellers that happen to be there.

Eterna-Matic 2002 from 1973
Eterna·Matic 2002 from 1973

Anyway, trawling around the Fair and in amongst the “house clearance” stuff and quite a few watches that obviously lived their lives in boxes full of old nails, I did come across a guy who actually had some decent stuff.  His prices were the sort of prices I understand – he’s a watch guy – say no more! and we got on.

Quite a few decent models there too, from Jaeger LeCoultre to Omega to Rolex and so on, but the one that caught my eye was this lovely super condition Eterna·Matic 2002 from 1973.  It simply stood out as one of those very good but understated Brands and this one as good today as the day it was produced.  The case is that lovely cushion/tonneau shaped ’70s style and in really good condition with no corrosion or plating loss.

Perfect original dial - not bad after 43 years!
Original dial – as good as it gets.  

The excellent mechanical movement is the Calibre 12824 or (ETA 2824) automatic date, which beats along at a very smooth 28,800 a/h frequency.  The description “sweep” seconds hand really does apply here.

The serial number is scribed on the movement, as is the Eterna·Matic name, Brevet Swiss (Swiss patented).  The movement condition is also excellent, the rotor sweet and smooth and the watch dial is something to be very pleased about.  The watch back is screwed stainless steel with an intact near perfect condition rubber gasket seal and engraved case number.

Approximately 38 mm wide (39 mm including the semi-recessed Crown) by 37 mm lug to lug and the wrist shot is self evident – pretty much perfect.  The Crown is part shrouded by the neat underside chamfered shaping of the case and a slight indent on the top/side of the case.

The dial is really good – the gold hands and baton markers crisp and clear, the dial’s vertical brushed Gold texture background and wonderfully light contrasting outer index a total delight and all original.  Note the Crown – is topped with the 5 protruding balls logo and matches the dial logo.  The strap is a 19 mm wide non-original (the old one was done) Condor in a soft flexible Buffalo Calf which matches up very nicely.
Watch dimensions – just about ideal for me or indeed anybody today despite the penchant for large watches, this just fits perfectly.

As good as it gets on the wrist! Makes some modern watches look bland!
As good as it gets on the wrist! Makes some modern watches look bland! (2015

The watch functions smoothly, the date change crisp and the date wheel is in perfect condition and it is one very accurate movement, as was intended.

The Eterna-Matic Automatic Cal 12824 - 28,000 beats
The Eterna·Matic Automatic Cal 12824 – 28,000 beats (2015)

Interesting model this as it started off life in 1972 (Eterna have been around sine 1856) and it was with this Eterna·Matic named model that the Company re-introduced itself to the world.
It was a bit of a revelation in the Watch Industry as it was the first watch to wind itself automatically by means of ball bearings – self polishing too, which reduced friction losses considerably and as a result produced a remarkably accurate movement.  They even offered a Ladies model with the same set up – and that was something really new.

Eterna·Matic 1973 automatic – (image 2024)

And so here it is in 2024 after 51 years and looking great! – now that has to be quality.  And as to value?  Well let’s just say that I was VERY pleased at the time I bought it. . . .
This is not the first Eterna·Matic in my collection – and it won’t be the last, I’m sure.

Screw down back & semi-recessed crown (image 2024)

Note –As a brand Eterna today is often forgotten about by the mainstream, which is an oversight in my opinion as their range of models are both technically interesting and varied.

Models such as the Adventic which features the Eterna in-house Calibre 3843 with their Eterna Spherodrive mechanism (ball bearing mounted barrel) or the hand wound Madison big date (one of my favourites), which features an 8 day Calibre 3510 with a serially coupled pair of spring barrels working in tandem to deliver 192 hours of power thanks to that Spherodrive system.  This is a hand wound model that only requires to be wound 3 times a month!

So plenty of innovation from Eterna and certainly should always be a consideration if looking for a more individual watch today.  I hope to run a Post at some point on the range of models currently available

Note – The original Post is still on the main Posts section, but as I’ve now updated it, I’ll delete it from there.  There is a copy of the Post in the Vintage gents section and I’ll update that one with this update as I go along.

Update Genta

Gerald Genta G3268.G Bartolomeo – Alarm (Omega 980 19J movement) back from service and looking good.

This was my first Gerald Genta and after taking it from it’s display resting place (apart from a couple of weeks annually that I wear it) I thought it could do with a bit of a service.  So, a month or so ago, I sent it away for a complete service and am delighted to say it’s back and is as good as the day it was purchased.

My Genta Bartolomeo (image updated April 2024)

 

My model which features the Omega 908 Automatic alarm movement from sometime around 1995, so bang in the middle of Gerald Genta’s best production period – and as I’ve discovered since, this particular model is rather rare. The 980 movement itself appeared first back in 1968, used in Seamaster models and the Memomatic of 1970.

Only a very few of this model have been seen at auctions in the last 15 years and this one changed hands at least once before it got to me.  I love it as it shows off the Genta style and was for me, my first introduction to this Brand.

So, just to recap – this a Gerald Genta Bartolomeo Alarm Calendar watch with slate dial and centre rotating disc wheel, gold filled numerals and luminous markers, gold hour, minute and seconds hands, plus the GG logo in gold on a red tipped Alarm pointer, which is on the central disc. This points to the hour and the half hour and enough space is on the index for pretty accurate placement of the Alarm time.

The Alarm function is indicated by a central rotating disk and operated and set using the upper Crown.

The time is set by the main/centre crown @3.

The mechanical Alarm is activated by the upper crown(between 1 & 2) when pulled out one click.  With the upper crown pulled out two clicks, it disengages the main crown from the hour and minute hands, which then allows the main crown to set/move the Alarm pointer hand (disc) – in either direction. Pushing in the upper crown, re-engages the main crown to the hour and minute hands, as normal.
The alarm is as I said, mechanical and the sound is produced by a small hammer striking a gong attached to the movement. It is what I would call (and Omega said this too) a discrete sound and rather nice in comparison to the modern digital ones. I find it useful as it is accompanied by a gentle vibration (my hearing not being so bright now).

The watch (although automatic) can also be manually wound using the main crown.

Also of note is the fact this Alarm does not require winding – this is done automatically by the normal auto movement (one winding barrel suffices) and is operational again within an hour of normal wearing.

This is almost the same as the Omega Memomatic which shares the same 980 movement. The difference being the Memomatic has a second disc on the dial which indicates minutes, which allows it uniquely to be set precisely to the minute.

The Genta dial layout also features a clearly defined large Date between 3 & 4 o’clock and there is a handy quick set date adjuster, just below the 2 o’clock position on a small raised case mount, in the form of a small pusher.

The bronze coloured bezel is secured with 4 screws.  The crystal is Sapphire and slightly domed.  The watch case is stainless steel, as is the back with securing screws. On the back is the serial number & model details inscribed plus the brand logo.  The Gerard Genta logo is also featured on the red tipped Alarm pointer, which form part of the central slate disc on the dial.

My Gerald Genta still has the original T bar leather strap and the original signed stainless steel double deployment clasp.  Case diameter is 40mm ex. crowns. and 13mm thickness.

The value of this watch is certainly higher today than when I bought it at auction and as said, few of this one have appeared for sale.  So, I’m really pleased with what was at the time, an impulse buy!

Gerald Genta watches are seen as an iconic brand and this one started off a small collection of the brand – though this, the first one I owned, is  still my favourite.

Update (April 2024) – So the watch is looking good, serviced and polished and with a new 2 year guarantee no less, no issues during the service and appears as good as it was when made – I am very pleased.

My Tissot T-Touch

Wearing my old Tissot T-Touch Solar for this week and I’m still impressed by it’s look and functions.

My 2013 Tissot Solar T-Touch. Titanium. (image April 2024)

The technical aspects of this model were pretty much ground breaking at the time. I got this back in 2014 about a year after it came out.

Details of this model specifically can be found on my original Post – here

However, I thought I’d have a look at Tissot, 11 years on and have to say, they really have moved on! Same fundamentals, but really updated to part smart watch to whatever you need it to be. Awesome.

You can check out the direct replacement for my old model here – https://www.tissotwatches.com/en-gb/t1214204705101.html

Colourful strap with this one and a few more functions with phone messages and activities control, but very familiar to me.

Am I tempted?

Well, I have to say yes, but I won’t be getting it as it costs around £1000 and I’m not into activities such as trekking and running and all that stuff, at my age – and as for messages – well – I can simply use my phone, so not really required.

But it looks great and I’m sure it will attract those younger than myself, who like me decided it was just the thing for them at the time.

I note they have done away with the old hat digital window and dates and data all appear on the screen – a la Smart phones – just goes to show that maybe today I’m out of Touch! (get it?)

My 480 CW new images

Had a mental block today and couldn’t remember what movement my 18ct gold Jaeger Lecoultre dress watch had. (my memory not as good as it was!). So, had no choice but to unsnap the back off to have a look.

18ct Gold Jaeger LeCoultre gents manual wind – circa 1950

Of course it shows the movement as the cal. 480 CW (how could I forget?) and the serial number dates it I think to around to early 1951 (or maybe late 1950?).  I should have known as I’m relocating my collection from boxes to drawers over the next week or so and it was in my box marked 1945 – 1955, so what can I say?

I remember I did that as the watch was sold as 1949 and I gave it some leeway, though I was pretty sure it was early fifties.  Anyway, at the time I told myself to check, but apparently never did. Probably as I discovered at the time JL were and still are, touchy about publicising serial numbers/dates.  Back then they charged a fee that for me I thought was a bit steep (just checked and it’s now up around £250!) – so I’ll happily go with the dates I’ve decided after checking some JLs for sale, where the dates were given – and checked my serial No. against these – and I’m close enough.

 

Jaeger LeCoultre Cal. 480 CW manual wind

In my photo I’ve blanked out the serial number, but I can say it was 6 digits starting 82, so maybe that’ll help others with a rough guide.

I did wonder in passing as to what it’s value would be in comparison to when bought, not that I have any intention of selling but it’s always nice to know.
Certainly when I look at todays pre-owned watch auction prices for what are relatively ordinary watches, it appears most have have trebled, though I’m very sceptical as to their true worth.

However, Jaeger LeCoultre is a “name” and renowned for their high quality. My one here is in superb condition and is 18ct solid gold, so I’m pretty sure based on the general increase, it should easily mange a threefold increase. So that’s nice!

This is something I never really thought about when I first started collecting, as I bought models that I liked, regardless of brand or for any investment reason.  I bought what I liked and within what for me, I thought “affordable”, however subjective that is and I wanted simply to wear them.

However, with the inflated prices being asked today for some pretty mundane everyday models, maybe in retrospect I should have considered it.
But it is what it is and if it does manage to value at 3 x times my outlay, then great – but I’m not considering selling.

So, this Post – just an update to add a couple of images taken this week (March 2014) of this iconic brand and my elegant Cal. 480 which is a bit of a classic.
This LeCoultre is one of a select number I used to wear at functions and dressy holidays (not so many these days!) as it’s just such a delight to wear – and what’s always surprised me, are the number of people who actually notice it and comment. It seems there are folks around who actually make a point of looking at what watch you have (maybe they want to get out more !).

To illustrate – in Berlin, Germany a few years back I actually got an offer for it, quite out of the blue when in a meeting – but I declined the offer.

Then a few weeks later in Budapest, an ‘older than she looked’ lady stopped me and asked me for the time AND made me an offer.  But I was old enough to realise this offer was for something else entirely – and before you jump to conclusions – I declined! 😉

My wife, who was just across the street looking at a shop window, came over to re-join me and asked if I knew this woman –
I said, “No, she was just asking for the time!” and said no more.

I’m stopping this Post now, before things get out of hand . . . . .

Bell & Ross

So, why do I like Bell & Ross watches?

They are a relatively recent company, a French manufacturer, based in Paris, with their manufacturing facility in Switzerland. They came into being in 1992, when they used the German manufacturer, Sinn (I liked their U1 1010 Diver (though big) and more recently the Sinn 105 St Sa UTC) for initial production, but in 2002 became their own man so to speak, when Bell & Ross really came into their own.

The BR 03 – not as big as it looks at just 42mm across.

Their philosophy was and is simple and according to their own literature, their watches meet four basic principles: legibility, functionality, reliability and precision. They are also known for the BR series of models which were square cased. Mostly based on aircraft instrumentation for style and legibility, they soon became favourites with pilots, divers and other action occupations and of course extreme sports lovers.

But for me I like them for one main reason (amongst others) – because they manage to make what appears to be a large watch, with great clarity and readability – appear small.

And that’s no easy feat, especially with a square case format, but for myself with an average wrist size, it means a great deal. And most of their conventional round cased watches are a sensible size too.

They also use their own excellent Swiss automatic movements, such as the latest Br323 with an astonishing 70 hours power reserve and they use ground breaking luminous features, which have to be seen (in any light).

The BR S Quartz powered matte ceramic at just 39mm across.

The what I personally call their basic signature model the BR 03 (in matte black) for example is just 41mm across, though at first glance appears much larger, due in some part to the wide rubber (part synthetic fabric) strap, which is illusionary in fact.
This model actually wears very well on a medium wrist. This is a Date watch (though perhaps a little small) @between 4 & 5, great clear reading dial with excellent contrast and it’s powered by the BR-CAL.302. Automatic mechanical movement with an excellent 54-hour power reserve.

It’s also just 10.6 mm thick and made from micro-blasted ceramic and the sapphire crystal is anti-reflective. This model is rated as 100m Water Resistant.

And there are more –

In the same range they also have a Quartz version, the BR S which is only 39mm across with the BR-CAL.102 Quartz movement with an almost identical dial, but with a small seconds @6, rather than the sweep centre one.

Perhaps for some folks, Bell & Ross may be a little expensive, but they are a high end Brand with much innovation. So what you get for your money in relative terms is certainly quality and of value. Couple that with such compact functionality and that large can be small concept, certainly a Brand to consider.

Part of the fun is to actually try one on the wrist – and once you do . . . . I warn you – you’ll probably get it.

Note – Obviously the Quartz BR S model is the most affordable compared to Automatics at around £2,200 in the UK.

Something about vintage – Trebex

One of the nicest watches to wear is this 1948 9ct gold TREBEX, with it’s superb overhung centre sweep second hand and one of the most unique pointer styles I can remember seeing on a watch.  I have heard this particular model was referred to as an excellent “Doctor’s” watch In Japan, no less!  Perhaps not officially, but as the seconds index is fully blocked in, coupled with the wonderful seconds hand made pulse timing very, very easy. It IS however VERY rare indeed to find it.

There is some confusion about the origins of this brand, though the horological trade mark index (the Mikrolisk data web site) does have it listed as a sub brand of the Milex Watch Company. They were registered in Switzerland in 1938 along with Elem under their trade mark appropriation data.

Swiss Trebex 9ct Gold Gents watch 1928 vintage.
Swiss Trebex 9ct Gold Gents watch 1948 vintage.

The watch case is 34.5mm diameter which is quite large for the period and had what was termed as “fluted” or “fancy lugs”.

The hand wound mechanical movement is an A S Schild 17 jewel calibre 1351 and runs perfectly and in fact a very good time keeper.

I fitted it to a green lizard strap which seemed to suit it complete with a rounded vintage gold buckle and it is a delight to wear and often to be seen on my wrist of an evening.

No idea of the value of this watch at all, but it is what it is and so far I’ve not come across another with this particular dial. I have found only one with what appears to be a very similar case including the “fluted” lugs, but not with the same seconds/minute closed index OR that amazing seconds pointer hand.

So, to me it’s worth having basically for it’s apparent rarity and the fact, I like it very much and often wear it.  And that surely is what it’s all about.

Update on my Cal 83 (new pics)

1941 IWC 14ct Gold case, Cal 83 hand wind.

This is my interesting 1941 IWC with it’s elegant Calibre 83, 6 bridge-design movement, in a gold case.  After some investigation this is in a 14kt Gold case, may have been supplied to or produced in Hungary during the war.

The watch is in excellent condition both due to it’s age and considering the time it may have been produced as WW11 raged across Europe.  Still unable to confirm the Case Maker/Sponsor mark even after some years of trying.

The wonderfully elegant IWC Cal 83 was introduced/produced between 1935? and the mid 1940’s and regarded as a transitional movement between the pocket watch and the wrist watch.  In fact it reflects the very best of pocket watch movements at the time and this one is in very good condition. Factually this movement is 15 jewel with wonderful Geneva stripes with angled edges, with Brequet hair spring and a wonderful symmetry. It also has a power reserve of 47hrs. It is in essence beautifully made.

I have heard it said by a few watch commentators that this movement (and I quote) “is as well executed as Patek Phillipe”, which is praise indeed.

The case is a little more unusual having straight sides and thin lugs, though it has a precedent as it’s very reminiscent of No 58 and some others in

IWC Cal 83 1941 hand wound movement

IWC’s 1941/2 Blue Catalogue.
Within this catalogue it is quite obvious, comparing the available models, that there were quite a few “mix & match” combinations of dial layouts and case designs over this period.  This particular watch case could also be an IWC design imported into Hungary for separate metal assessment and subsequent matching to the movement.
as it shows the Hungarian Assay mark for 14kt Gold (580/1000) – this is a stamped left facing Wolf’s head + the number 4.  This stamp is repeated on the right hand top lug exterior.
However this is still conjecture and probably will never be known.

Note the Hallmarked 14k gold symbol on the top lug and the large “onion” crown.  Gold hands and seconds sub-dial on what appears to be a well preserved original dial – I note there are a few small spots on the dial background but only noticeable under magnification.  The case diameter is almost 33 mm without the onion Crown, so larger than many at the time and I’m very pleased that it wears “larger” and looks good on my average wrist.Lovely Cal. 83 manual wind signed International Watch Co movement, showing little signs of age.

The strap is a high quality water resistant Hirsch leather 18mm to fixed wire fittings between lugs which were common at the time.  No spring bars here and replacements straps must be open ended types to fit.
Note the nicely decorated case back interior which has case number, case makers mark, service marks and the 14k gold mark of Hungary.

As said the movement is in very good condition and shows no signs of wear at all, which is always a bonus.
Regarding the strap I personally feel the colour doesn’t show the watch to best advantage and I changed it for a black lizard leather one.

However, the case is still a bit of a mystery and even the dial has questions about it, though the movement is as perfect as you’ll get. Perhaps a product of interrupted manufacture during wartime when parts were scarce, though is saying that – IWC produced around 6000 of this movement which saw service in the Mk10 Military watch probably around the same period.

But whatever, a great and I have to say very pleasing result and a movement that is a classic in it’s own right – and good to have. AND it is working perfectly and is very accurate indeed.

Note I noted there are marks on the inside of the case which indicate it was serviced in December 1962 and again in November 1976. (there may be an earlier one but it’s too indistinct to read).  Considering manufacturers of mechanical watches tend to recommend servicing every 3 years I suppose it’s not too bad!

1941/2 International Watch Company Cal.83 to 14kt Case
1941 International Watch Company Cal.83 in 14kt Case and lizard strap.

’62 Kingmatic S updated Post

I remember I bought this back in 2012 or 13. Because it was the best condition Kingmatic Subsea I’d ever come across. For a watch produced around 1962 to 66/7 I was pleased to get it for a reasonable price. Checking the web today, it seems to suggest that models from around this age have easily trebled its value since (condition dependent).

Anyway, as most of my collection, I wear it for two to three weeks every year and perhaps just on a whim at any given time. I attach an image taken today at the end of this Post – and it’s as good now as then.

This is basically an update on the original Post I did and at long last have replaced the image of the movement (took the photo just minutes ago)

An interesting watch Manufacturer Movado and with some styles from the past that have always interested me, this one is such a model – that I couldn’t resist.

1960's Movado S Kingmatic Auto Sub Sea model
1960’s Movado S Kingmatic Auto Sub Sea model – (image 2013)

Without doubt one of the nicest dial gents Movado I’ve yet seen, this was a must purchase.  1960’s vintage with a Movado Cal 395 – C,  Automatic movement.  This is their famous Kingmatic Sub Sea model with 28 jewels and running as sweet as it did when new (as of today 17/03/24) this sort of mechanical marvel never fails to impress me.  Over 50 years (60 now) and still perfect it has a neat 34mm diameter gold micron plated case, centre sweep seconds and applied gold markers on 3, 6, 9 and 12.

Movado Cal. 395-C 28 jewel movement (image 17/04/24)

As you see (today’s) image shows an immaculate Cal 39 – C, movement with the classic Movado rotor assembly, incabloc shock protection in a neat layout.  The Calibre number can be seen under the wheel.  Obscured by the rotor it also states Movado Factories, Swiss and 28 jewels.  Lovely action too this rotor and for a ‘bumper” quite silent in operation – this is a class item indeed.

Stainless steel back +chariot & horses logo, Sub-sea & 28 jewels (image 17/04/24)

The stainless steel screw back has a full Movado medallion logo set with Kingmatic S and the horses & chariot design in the centre.  Sub Sea and 28 jewels are the other markings on the back.  The crown is the original Movado logo and the lugs are set to fit an 18mm strap, which in this case is a nice quality though non-original Condor stitched leather variety with gold coloured buckle which sits it very well.

Classic dress Movado Kingmatic
Classic dress Movado Kingmatic – (image 2013)

This model like so many of that time is that nice size so favored by many of the classic watch makers @ 34mm which allows it to fit most wrists easily and neatly.  For me every thing about this watch is just right – beautiful face, great look, slim, elegant, perfect size, lovely automatic action and a joy to wear.

Looking good at any age.
Looking good at any age – (image 2013)

The Kingmatic automatic model (and the Tempomatic before it) took the watch world by storm when it first came out in around 1962 and the Kingmatic was made probably till around 1967.  The Company started off life way back in 1881, the name “Movado” meaning “always in motion” in Esperanto the Company has over 100 patents and over 200 awards and still operating today.

This is now my fourth Movado now and my third mechanical model – I have also a Quartz and all have impressed.  The quartz one also has a highly individual dial face and a certain neat quality – and I can now see where the heritage comes from.

This Sub Sea model especially with it’s rather unique face, it’s sleek movement and beautiful condition will certainly be on my wrist on many occasions I’m sure – and that surely is as good a testament you can have for any watch.

Update promise – 11 years after the last photo, this image taken today 17th March 2024 – though with different lighting I hasten to add.
Back then I had a fancy white fabric light box with 3 x spot lights which gave equal light from all angles and took my photos with a big Canon digital camera and with tripod and so on.  Today, I simply use an iPad, hand held, then instant wireless link the image to the PC and then to the web site – easy!

(image taken 17th March 2014)

 

Something about Vintage – Blancpain

An upmarket vintage model from possibly the oldest watch company in the world, is my nice 1940’s Blancpain, 14k gold gents watch, which is quite a rare thing. It has a signed 17 jewel manual wound movement, circa 1945. The 14k Gold case is by Katz & Ogush of New York and features “fancy hooded lugs” and a nicely sculpted crown which is also quite rare.  When I got it some years ago I had to replace the strap and fitted a high quality Rosario stitched leather strap which suits it well.

Gold Blancpain – circa 1945

Overall the watch is in great condition and works perfectly and I have not seen another, though there is an almost identical model referenced in my 2018 edition of Gilbert, Engle & Schugart Guide to Watches (page 679).

The referenced model has full width hooded lugs, whereas this one has split ones, which again is rare.

Note the solid hour markers on the dial are not printed or applied, but are riveted through the dial.

Sculpted crown

Case width 25mm, lug to lug 35mm and the case thickness including the slightly domed crystal (also perfect) is approximately 7mm.

Once again, this shows that many of these vintage models, though dimensionally small by today’s offerings, more often than not, look perfect on an average wrist and are exceptionally comfortable to wear.

It’s nice to have a vintage model from this Company as I also have a more modern model from them too, another one of my favourites  – a Blancpain Villeret which I bought around 1990.

With my more upmarket watches I like to have an old and a new (well newer) just as a comparison. Blancpain quality still shines through.

Something about vintage – Lord Elgin

The main reason I collect vintage watches is simply because of their look.  And yes, generally they are smaller than today, but not to be confused with ladies models, which when these were produced were very much smaller. But that doesn’t mean they look feminine on a gent’s wrist, not at all, but it does mean that they are amazingly comfortable and to my mind, look great.

Take this 1947 Lord Elgin, which is not quite as old as I am, but at 76 years old it is still working perfectly, keeps reasonable time and has a power reserve that lasts easily from day to day.

Lord Elgin vintage model from 1947.

This model has the 21 jewel Cal. 670 manual wind movement, adjusted to 3 positions.

It has a lovely copper dial with gold hour and minute hands, plus a sub-seconds dial @6 also with a gold seconds pointer. A minute index is nicely configured around the dial and the detail is really very good indeed.

This model also has wonderful fully articulated  “fancy” lugs (a cute and correct quaint term of the day) with nice engraved work at the case ends. The watch is in a Wandsworth Gold Filled case and the entire look is excellent, as is the condition.

Note the “adjusted in 3 positions” – this means that when produced, it actually had an accuracy goal right from the start.
Many watches are not adjusted at all for accuracy, but for these vintage watches it was a good thing.  Different levels of accuracies could be graded, such as 2 positions or 5 positions and this means simply that the watch was tested (duh!) in different positions, such as crown down, crown up and so on. Because wearing on a wrist, the watch ends up in many different positions, so it shows an attempt has been made right from the start, to minimise inaccuracy from a positional point of view at least.

There are actually two other main factors affecting accuracy, such as temperature and then the mainspring effect, or “isochronism”, which is caused by the spring unwinding as it runs. For example it might be 2 or 3 seconds fast in the morning, but later in the day maybe 3 or 4 times that.  So to try and regulate that “rate” is another way of improving accuracy.

But this watch at least has had some positional adjustments carried out, which is a good indicator of decent quality movement wise.

However, the main point of this Post is much more basic.

I simply wanted to show how good a true vintage sized watch can look on a gents wrist (the gent being me!) 😉 and I think it looks great and it wears great, which was and is still the main reason for my vintage watch collecting.

Note – The dimensions of the watch are 21mm across (add 1mm for the crown) x 45mm total lug to lug including articulation (the case is actually 27mm lug to lug) and the curved case is approximately 7mm thickness including the high domed crystal, which is a feature on many vintage watches of this period.

I’m going to do a few more of the vintage watch Posts, since I re-organised my watch storage ideas recently. I have a pile of leather strapped models waiting to be re-located in new cabinets and I’m cataloguing them too, so they are to hand.