Gerald Genta G3268.G Bartolomeo – Alarm (Omega 980 19J movement) back from service and looking good.
This was my first Gerald Genta and after taking it from it’s display resting place (apart from a couple of weeks annually that I wear it) I thought it could do with a bit of a service. So, a month or so ago I sent it away for a complete service and am delighted to say it’s back and is as good as the day I got it.
My Genta Bartolomeo (image updated April 2024)
My model which features the Omega 908Automatic alarm movement from sometime around 1995, so bang in the middle of Gerald Genta’s best production period – and as I’ve discovered since, this particular model is rather rare. The 980 movement itself appeared first back in 1968, used in Seamaster models and the Memomatic of 1970.
Only a very few of this model have been seen at auctions in the last 15 years and this one changed hands at least once before it got to me. I love it as it shows off the Genta style and was my first introduction to the Brand.
To recap – this a Gerald Genta Bartolomeo Alarm Calendar watch with slate dial and centre rotating disc wheel, gold filled numerals and luminous markers, gold hour, minute and seconds hands, plus the GG logo in gold on a red tipped Alarm pointer, which is on the central disc. This points to the hour and the half hour and enough space is on the index for pretty accurate setting of the Alarm time.
The Alarm function is indicated by a central rotating disk and operated and set using the upper Crown.
The time is set by the main/centre crown @3.
The mechanical Alarm is activated by the upper crown(between 1 & 2) when pulled out one click. With the upper crown pulled out two clicks, it disengages the main crown from the hour and minute hands, which then allows the main crown to set/move the Alarm pointer hand (disc) – in either direction. Pushing in the upper crown, re-engages the main crown to the hour and minute hands, as normal.
The alarm is mechanical and the sound is produced by a small hammer striking a gong attached to the movement. It is what I would call (and Omega said this too) a discrete sound and rather nice in comparison to the modern digital ones. I find it really quite good as not only I can actually hear it (not so with digital alarms as I’m at an age now where I don’t hear certain frequencies) plus it has a bonus of a gentle vibration as the hammer hits the gong.
The watch (although automatic) can also be manually wound using the main crown.
Also of note is the fact this Alarm does not require winding – this is done automatically by the normal auto movement (one winding barrel suffices) and is operational again within an hour of striking, with normal wrist wear.
This is almost the same as the Omega Memomatic which shares the same 980 movement. The difference being the Memomatic has a second disc on the dial which has inscribed minutes, which allows it uniquely to be set precisely to the minute.
The dial layout also features a clearly defined large Date between 3 & 4 o’clock and there is a handy quick set date adjuster, just below the 2 o’clock position on a small raised case mount, in the form of a small pusher.
The bronze coloured bezel is secured with 4 screws. The crystal is Sapphire and slightly domed. The watch case is stainless steel, as is the back with securing screws. On the back is the serial number & model details inscribed plus the brand logo. The Gerard Genta logo is also featured on the red tipped Alarm pointer, which form part of the central slate disc on the dial. (Note – a few Genta models feature bronze cases and it’s sometimes tricky to tell, but I thing this one is steel).
My Gerald Genta still has the original T bar leather strap and the original signed stainless steel double deployment clasp. Case diameter is 40mm ex. crowns. and 13mm thickness.
The value of this watch is certainly higher today than when I bought it at auction and as said, few of this one have appeared for sale. So, I’m really pleased with what was at the time, an impulse buy!
Gerald Genta watches are seen as an iconic brand and this one started off a small personal collection of the brand – though this, as it was my first, is my favourite.
Update (April 2024) – So the watch is looking good, serviced and polished and with a new 2 year guarantee no less, no issues during the service and appears as good as it was when made – I am very pleased.
Wearing my old Tissot T-Touch Solar for this week and I’m still impressed by it’s look and functions.
My 2013 Tissot Solar T-Touch. Titanium. (image April 2024)
The technical aspects of this model were pretty much ground breaking at the time. I got this back in 2014 about a year after it came out.
Details of this model specifically can be found on my original Post – here
However, I thought I’d have a look at Tissot, 11 years on and have to say, they really have moved on! Same fundamentals, but really updated to part smart watch to whatever you need it to be. Awesome.
Colourful strap with this one and a few more functions with phone messages and activities control, but very familiar to me.
Am I tempted?
Well, I have to say yes, but I won’t be getting it as it costs around £1000 and I’m not into activities such as trekking and running and all that stuff, at my age – and as for messages – well – I can simply use my phone, so not really required.
But it looks great and I’m sure it will attract those younger than myself, who like me decided it was just the thing for them at the time.
I note they have done away with the old hat digital window and dates and data all appear on the screen – a la Smart phones – just goes to show that maybe today I’m out of Touch! (get it?)
Had a mental block today and couldn’t remember what movement my 18ct gold Jaeger Lecoultre dress watch had. (my memory not as good as it was!). So, had no choice but to unsnap the back off to have a look.
18ct Gold Jaeger LeCoultre gents manual wind – circa 1950
Of course it shows the movement as the cal. 480 CW (how could I forget?) and the serial number dates it I think to around to early 1951 (or maybe late 1950?). I should have known as I’m relocating my collection from boxes to drawers over the next week or so and it was in my box marked 1945 – 1955, so what can I say?
I remember I did that as the watch was sold as 1949 and I gave it some leeway, though I was pretty sure it was early fifties. Anyway, at the time I told myself to check, but apparently never did. Probably as I discovered at the time JL were and still are, touchy about publicising serial numbers/dates. Back then they charged a fee that for me I thought was a bit steep (just checked and it’s now up around £250!) – so I’ll happily go with the dates I’ve decided after checking some JLs for sale, where the dates were given – and checked my serial No. against these – and I’m close enough.
Jaeger LeCoultre Cal. 480 CW manual wind
In my photo I’ve blanked out the serial number, but I can say it was 6 digits starting 82, so maybe that’ll help others with a rough guide.
I did wonder in passing as to what it’s value would be in comparison to when bought, not that I have any intention of selling but it’s always nice to know.
Certainly when I look at todays pre-owned watch auction prices for what are relatively ordinary watches, it appears most have have trebled, though I’m very sceptical as to their true worth.
However, Jaeger LeCoultre is a “name” and renowned for their high quality. My one here is in superb condition and is 18ct solid gold, so I’m pretty sure based on the general increase, it should easily mange a threefold increase. So that’s nice!
This is something I never really thought about when I first started collecting, as I bought models that I liked, regardless of brand or for any investment reason. I bought what I liked and within what for me, I thought “affordable”, however subjective that is and I wanted simply to wear them.
However, with the inflated prices being asked today for some pretty mundane everyday models, maybe in retrospect I should have considered it.
But it is what it is and if it does manage to value at 3 x times my outlay, then great – but I’m not considering selling.
So, this Post – just an update to add a couple of images taken this week (March 2014) of this iconic brand and my elegant Cal. 480 which is a bit of a classic.
This LeCoultre is one of a select number I used to wear at functions and dressy holidays (not so many these days!) as it’s just such a delight to wear – and what’s always surprised me, are the number of people who actually notice it and comment. It seems there are folks around who actually make a point of looking at what watch you have (maybe they want to get out more !).
To illustrate – in Berlin, Germany a few years back I actually got an offer for it, quite out of the blue when in a meeting – but I declined the offer.
Then a few weeks later in Budapest, an ‘older than she looked’ lady stopped me and asked me for the time AND made me an offer. But I was old enough to realise this offer was for something else entirely – and before you jump to conclusions – I declined! 😉
My wife, who was just across the street looking at a shop window, came over to re-join me and asked if I knew this woman –
I said, “No, she was just asking for the time!” and said no more.
I’m stopping this Post now, before things get out of hand . . . . .
I remember I bought this back in 2012 or 13. Because it was the best condition Kingmatic Subsea I’d ever come across. For a watch produced around 1962 to 66/7 I was pleased to get it for a reasonable price. Checking the web today, it seems to suggest that models from around this age have easily trebled its value since (condition dependent).
Anyway, as most of my collection, I wear it for two to three weeks every year and perhaps just on a whim at any given time. I attach an image taken today at the end of this Post – and it’s as good now as then.
This is basically an update on the original Post I did and at long last have replaced the image of the movement (took the photo just minutes ago)
An interesting watch Manufacturer Movado and with some styles from the past that have always interested me, this one is such a model – that I couldn’t resist.
1960’s Movado S Kingmatic Auto Sub Sea model – (image 2013)
Without doubt one of the nicest dial gents Movado I’ve yet seen, this was a must purchase. 1960’s vintage with a Movado Cal 395 – C, Automatic movement. This is their famous Kingmatic Sub Sea model with 28 jewels and running as sweet as it did when new (as of today 17/03/24) this sort of mechanical marvel never fails to impress me. Over 50 years (60 now) and still perfect it has a neat 34mm diameter gold micron plated case, centre sweep seconds and applied gold markers on 3, 6, 9 and 12.
Movado Cal. 395-C 28 jewel movement (image 17/04/24)
As you see (today’s) image shows an immaculate Cal 39 – C, movement with the classic Movado rotor assembly, incabloc shock protection in a neat layout. The Calibre number can be seen under the wheel. Obscured by the rotor it also states Movado Factories, Swiss and 28 jewels. Lovely action too this rotor and for a ‘bumper” quite silent in operation – this is a class item indeed.
The stainless steel screw back has a full Movado medallion logo set with Kingmatic S and the horses & chariot design in the centre. Sub Sea and 28 jewels are the other markings on the back. The crown is the original Movado logo and the lugs are set to fit an 18mm strap, which in this case is a nice quality though non-original Condor stitched leather variety with gold coloured buckle which sits it very well.
Classic dress Movado Kingmatic – (image 2013)
This model like so many of that time is that nice size so favored by many of the classic watch makers @ 34mm which allows it to fit most wrists easily and neatly. For me every thing about this watch is just right – beautiful face, great look, slim, elegant, perfect size, lovely automatic action and a joy to wear.
Looking good at any age – (image 2013)
The Kingmatic automatic model (and the Tempomatic before it) took the watch world by storm when it first came out in around 1962 and the Kingmatic was made probably till around 1967. The Company started off life way back in 1881, the name “Movado” meaning “always in motion” in Esperanto the Company has over 100 patents and over 200 awards and still operating today.
This is now my fourth Movado now and my third mechanical model – I have also a Quartz and all have impressed. The quartz one also has a highly individual dial face and a certain neat quality – and I can now see where the heritage comes from.
This Sub Sea model especially with it’s rather unique face, it’s sleek movement and beautiful condition will certainly be on my wrist on many occasions I’m sure – and that surely is as good a testament you can have for any watch.
Update promise – 11 years after the last photo, this image taken today 17th March 2024 – though with different lighting I hasten to add.
Back then I had a fancy white fabric light box with 3 x spot lights which gave equal light from all angles and took my photos with a big Canon digital camera and with tripod and so on. Today, I simply use an iPad, hand held, then instant wireless link the image to the PC and then to the web site – easy!
The watch featured in this update is the Eco-Drive A-T CB0020-09E also known as the World Perpetual A-T – a superbly made 42mm diameter, 11mm depth stainless steel Radio Controlled model from Citizen. The thing is I don’t believe it has been bettered by Citizen and I bought this in January 2011.
World Calendar Citizen AT – Eco-Drive, perpetual Calendar, Radio Controlled, instant world time analog and only 11mm depth – a masterpiece!
This is the rubber strapped version (a couple come with leather straps and a couple with bracelets are also available). And an excellent quality of silicon rubber strap it is too, with a nice double push button fold-over clasp. Like many other rubber straps however whilst it is adjustable it also tends to be a sort of final adjustment if you have small wrists as cutting is the name of the game, which is a pity. However as alluded to in my previous post, this is not the end of the world as this watch has standard case and lug arrangements, so a replacement alternative rubber or leather strap is easily sourced and fitted.
43mm x 11mm makes for a neat watch on the wrist
As said the other versions come with alternative strap arrangements, but this is not the only difference.
Whilst this model has a button @4 which is used to set the world time for example, the leather strap version has a recessed pusher instead. I personally prefer the button as it can easily be operated with the finger and not the end of a pen or other pointed object which may not be to hand.
Another difference is the omission of a bezel – where this model is clearly marked with the city positions – the strap versions have no bezel and the city markers are tucked under the sapphire crystal and part of the dial. Those who are familiar with my blog will know I’m not a great fan of bezels, but in this case not only does it look well but I find it a little easier to read. And apart from some other minor variations the watches share the same functionality and internal mechanics.
The flat sapphire crystal is anti-reflection coated and is very effective, especially as the internal dial markers and so on are not over chromed or reflective anyway and as a result the dark dial face has good contrast and is clear and easy to read.
The movement is the H144 caliber and with radio receivers built in and Radio Controlled so assuming you can receive a signal from one of the 5 transmitting stations, then it’s pretty much the perfect time keeper – it’s stand-alone accuracy without RC is pretty much standard fare for this range of Citizens at around +/-15secs per month.
Radio Control wise, the watch automatically scans for a signal at 2am, then 3am and 4am. If it receives successfully at either of these, then further attempts are deactivated. You can also initiate demand reception manually rather than wait for the automatic update and this is easily done. Simply press and hold the button @4 for around 2 seconds then release. The seconds multi-function hand will move to the “RX” in the little window @9. Let the watch sit in a position where it can best get the signal and note the receiver on this watch is on the 9 side of the case, so point that side roughly towards where the signal is
Stainless push button fold-over clasp
Here in the northern hemisphere I point it south as the European radio transmitter is located in Germany and it manages fine – here it takes under 5 minutes (the instruction booklet says allow up to 15 minutes as it’s dependent on signal strength).
After the update completes, the second hand returns to normal operation. The indication of success or otherwise can be checked easily – simply press the button once and the seconds multifunction hand will move to the little window @9 and point to OK or NO. Can’t be much clearer than that!
Interesting system means this watch is a perpetual calendar until 2100 anyway – set the time and it sets the year, month and day automatically. But note that only the date is shown in the window@3, it doesn’t display day or month like the ana/digi Citizen Attesa models, such as the ATV53-2833(click for my review).
Note – in case of problems the day, date, month and year can be set manually. There is also a quick set date concealed pusher @2 – so pretty much everything is catered for.
Setting the world time in 26 cities and time zones from 0 to 12 with a couple of half zones in there, is a piece of cake – crown to position 1 and turning it moves the seconds hand (which doubles as a control pointer) to each city in turn. The hands follow automatically to whatever zone is selected. Daylight Savings time is indicated in the little window between the 4 and 5 o’clock position and will automatically be set when a signal is received. It too can be set manually if needed.
Being one of Citizen’s Eco-drive models it doesn’t require battery changes. Managing to power itself from available light, when fully charged it can run for 2 years with the power save function activated or around 6 months if not (Power Save is used if the watch is in the dark for 7 days – it stops the hands and deactivates the Radio Control receive function, but the watch continues to keep quartz time).
Note that the watch will also not try to get a signal if the power is low – indicated by the second hand moving in 2 second intervals – another neat feature of this watch.
Other features include a full reset, hand repositioning etc. and the Time and Calendar can also be set manually to allow the auto calendar function to continue after that.
So all in all a pretty comprehensive unit, beautifully made, an excellent 200m Water Resistance, a very comfortable rubber strap and with sensible operational and safety features seamlessly built in. It can be found from around £230 in the UK, though fortunately I managed to find this one for less and coupled with the inclusive Citizen 5 year Guarantee I’m pretty pleased with this new and modern watch for my collection.
As said before I reckon this is the easiest world time adjusting watch there is and it seems slimmer and sleeker than any of their current models. So, sometimes a model comes along that simply is as good as it gets – and this is one of them. So glad I got it and still wearing it today!
It’s been a while since I looked at the CWC military spec models and the latest incarnation that grabs my attention is this nice PVD cased SBS Divers QS120-DD.
CWC SBS Divers Day/Date
This for me, is a proper, no nonsense military model, that has solid features, without frills.
It starts off with a decent 300m Water Resistance with screw down crown, which is neatly shrouded for protection.
The watch has a black matt PVD coated finish and a decent size at 41mm diameter minus crown (overall diameter is 45mm with the crown) and lug to lug size is actually a neat 47mm.
CWC SBS Super-luminova
The Sapphire crystal has a diameter of 31mm, which is relatively small, but with the clarity of the dial markings, seems to fit perfectly. It has a clearly marked 120 click bezel surrounding it.
Note the bezel has it’s own excellent luminous datum point marker.
The dial also features very good luminous qualities with proper Super-Luminova hands and markers, as shown in the second image. There is also a Day and Date window @3 which is a good size, so easy to read.
It’s powered by a Swiss Ronda Quartz movement, so a decent reliable Maker. There is also a seconds hand with pointer, also lumed, so timing anything is possible.
The strap is held to the case, not with spring bars, which in military circumstances can be too easily detached, but are fixed steel bars, so a NATO strap is kind of essential and supplied.
Overall I like this watch, even though the prices is perhaps higher than I expected. Mind you the last one I had from CWC was a long, long time ago – and this is a step up in all facets of look and operation. Presently around £699, but perhaps cheaper if any deals around. But what you get is an excellent, solid and dependable watch that does what it’s supposed to do.
Been looking at today’s Divers and there are an so many out there, it’s become a crowded category. The Apeks Diver shown here is still my favourite even at just 200m water resistance, so for normal everyday use and occasional swimming and so on, it’s virtually impossible to beat – period! The price unfortunately is now around £90, so gone up a fraction and I’m unsure that the same quality is there. Some changes seem to have taken place, such as no day shown, just the date.
I’m also unsure if the range of models is available and they have changed the name from Apeks to Cressi, so perhaps new ownership and new ideas.
What IS obvious, is the fact that what were once VERY affordable Diver watches as a category, the prices have rocketed and that is a real shame. Some are very expensive, I’ve seen cluttered dials, thin hands, not that easy to read, date windows that are simply too small. Some are automatic (OK) some quartz (also OK) – digital models too and some with debatable clarity in the water etc etc.
But, so many have issues for me, mostly to do with the increased prices and practicality and what they actually deliver. And that should be very simple – water resistance as specified, real dial clarity (not based on massaged photos or art pictures) plus a sensible value price. And every time I come up with my Apeks, which I bought in 2013 I think – and here we are –
Original Post 2013 –
I thought I’d have one last look to find a “best value Diver” watch, that was as good as the mainstream boys and hopefully considerably cheaper. After a little bit of investigation I did manage to find one and it impressed me so much – I bought it! It is the Apeks 200 AP0406 Mens Professional Diver, named and sold by the Apeks Diving Company and one of their best sellers – and if first impressions turn out to be true, I can see why!
Apeks AP0406 Mens 200m Professional Dive Watch
For a Divers model straight out of the box it seems on first looks to tick all the boxes –
Easy to read analogue dial, large luminous markers and hands.
Tested to 200 metres Water Resistance.
Tough compact Stainless steel case with Screw Down bezel.
Large uni-directional bezel for dive timing.
Very reliable Seiko/Epson Quartz movement.
A large, readable day and date window @3 (not a requirement but nice if you have it).
Polyurethane PU strap with flat inner surface, fitted to standard lug strap fittings.
Sounds good doesn’t it AND available for under £70! (now around £90) Too good to be true?
Solid case, uni-directional bezel and Screw Down Crown. Quality build.
Well I have it here in my hands and first impressions are not only good – they are very good!
It is very well made with an excellent stainless steel case. The case finish is brushed on the top and shiny sides and nicely shaped too. The size is about perfect at 41mm diameter according to my micrometer and 44mm including the crown. Lug to lug is 47mm and only 10.8mm deep, so this is a really neatly made case. Good crown protection and the well knurled crown is a decent Screw Down and performs very well – no hint of any cross threading here. In short a very well made exterior. The crystal I believe to be mineral glass appears flat.
41mm diameter x 10.8mm depth – makes for a compact fit.
The well defined uni-directional bezel has 60 clicks, which has excellent feedback, are smooth and definite and the large minute markers at 10, 20, 30, 40 and 50 including the zero align exactly with the internal dial minute track. Another indicator of the quality of this watch. And as to the question “Can I operate the bezel with gloves?” – the answer is yes. Oh there is also a very effective luminous dot at Zero on the bezel.
The back is clean and smooth, has a stainless steel screw back with model details, model Number, 200m Water Resistance etc.
Stainless Steel screw back and standard strap pins.
The watch has a nice weight at 78gms, which is lighter than the Citizen at 88gms and the Seiko Monster at 113gms, so not heavy on the wrist at all.
The dial is matte black with large very luminous markers. The broad hour and minute hands are good length and have excellent luminous infills. The centre seconds hand has a bright luminous arrow tip and also lines up accurately with the minute perimeter track. In addition this model has an outlined day and date window @3, which is well proportioned and easy to read with a decent contrast and easy read font.
The luminous quality is every bit as good as Seiko and betters my Citizen Diver and I can easily read the time after 6 hours in the dark. The shape and layout of the markers and hands makes for easy reading. This is much better than I’d hoped even against models over 8 times the price and easily matches the Citizen Diver I featured earlier.
In summary this watch surpasses all my expectations by a considerable way – not only does it look good, it IS good, darned good. 🙂
The only question I have is “Why did it take me so long to find it!”
Good dial layout, broad decent length hands and good lume.
Forgive the repetition, but this is one good looking watch and it’s a delight to wear, even with it’s standard Polyurethane PU strap (and that’s unusual in my experience). I was going to change it for one of my silicon deployment ones, but as I’d run out of them I wore it, as is, straight out of the box – and it’s very comfortable! Probably the most comfortable of my three Divers. (update – I discovered why it was more comfortable. Diver straps invariably have that “wave” in the rubber, three or four heavy “ripples” near the watch body. Well this one has those as well BUT are flat on the wrist side, making for a very comfortable strap).
On the wrist in standard strap – best fit I have.
So a surprisingly good watch and terrific value in my opinion – and just what I was looking for. In fact this is my Xmas present to me!
One point – the sales information by the seller states it’s a Seiko/Epson VX42 movement, that generic version is a date only @6. This model has the day and the date @3 and this movement is actually the Epson VX43E
And as I’ve found in the past, it’s as smooth as silk and appears so far to keep very good time indeed. I would also note that the font used on the Epson VX Date and Day wheel is one of the better ones I’ve come across – other brands should take note!
Note –
One small point is that whilst it comes well packed in a nice box – it doesn’t come with instructions. Now a day, date quartz model isn’t rocket science I know, but if you don’t know watches too well – they would be handy.
Another small niggle – I would prefer the Logo to be fainter, so total concentration or quick glance immediately sees the hand and markers and nothing else. But that’s me.
The crown @3 of course sets everything on this watch – Unscrew the crown from it’s screw down position, let it pop out free, then pull out to first position, turn left or right to adjust the day or the date, pull out to position 2 to adjust the hands. This is a hacking movement, so the second hand stops when you adjust the hands, which is so useful for accurate setting.
Remember even with quartz watches if they’re analogue, it’s best when setting the day or the date, to first move the time to anywhere between 0300 and 0900. You do this as setting the day and date within the change over period (roughly 2200 to 0200 +/-) it could cause damage to the mechanism. So to make sure, you should move the hour to a time where no changeover occurs – as above. The best and easiest way is to set the day and the date for yesterday’s date (this is important) – and once done you can in crown position 2, advance the hands until the day and the date change to today’s date – (the date will probably change first at around midnight to 01.30 ish, followed sometime later up to around 02.00 by the date). Then set (advance) to your present time with the crown at position 2 (if a morning time, you won’t pass the 12, if an afternoon time make sure you pass the 12).
Sounds complicated (and maybe I’ve confused you) but it’s really quite easy really.
And finally – Here is an image of three of my value Divers – (I have probably a dozen or so now (2022) – and for the money I believe they are about as good as you’ll get today – but the Apeks is really something – at under £70? Brilliant and I wished I’d found it sooner. Certainly on first acquaintance I have to recommend it. And I note that it is available in a Ladies version – Model AP0406-2 Ladies 200m Professional Diver with a slightly small diameter.
My Divers – these WERE value for money and great quality. But now? Priced out?
So that question again – Which do I like the best – now? Well, I like them all and that’s the truth. I love the “Monster” because it’s got that “something” and I like the Citizen, as it’s 300m and very sleek and compact and now very comfortable in it’s silicon strap. But practically my pick is the Apeks at under £70.00 – I mean what’s not to like!
Lume wise – the Seiko and the Apeks are both excellent and better than the Citizen which doesn’t last as long in the dark it’s OK but not as good as the others.
From a practical point of view I’m leaning towards the Apeks I have to admit – I mean it’s just so good and at an amazing price. I think Christmas is here already!
Have a nice one everybody!
Note – When it comes to getting yourself a watch for everyday use, it’s worth considering a “divers” watch. Not the so-called professional (read expensive) style ones, but ones similar to those featured here. You may not need one of those large ribbed straps and even if the watch you like has one, more often than not they are easily changed to a simple silicon deployment strap or even a leather one. But there’s no doubt that you can get yourself a VERY good watch at a VERY good price when looking at the Divers. Great strength, very easy to read and they usually look great.
Have fun.
2022 final update – 25th November
Well after the last update – that original strap I liked so much, has finally given up the ghost – became too brittle (lasted from 2013 to 2022) – so, I changed it for a standard silicon, double deployment strap and it’s once again just about perfect. Shows the value of having a watch that features standard spring bar fittings for the strap.
I have a small collection of Junkers watches and as with other brands I like, every so often I check out their newest offerings, basically to see what improvements or otherwise have been added.
The Junkers Tante JU52Automatic is one such model that has interested me since it first appeared and today’s version is no exception with that wonderfully figured “ribbed” dial so reminiscent of the Junkers aircraft.
Junkers Tante JU52 Automatic
The quality is really outstanding with its superb satin finish solid stainless steel case and Sapphire crystal, through which can be seen the clear, high contrast dial layout. The corrugated dial background with a decent sized date aperture @3, beautifully shaped Dauphinois hour and minute hands complete with Superluminova luminous in-fills are impressively clear to read (the hands are made in France). A long beautifully tapered black centre seconds hand travels majestically around the clearly defined perimeter index. Strongly defined black numerals complete the dial layout, which is signed, Made in Germany at the foot.
Junkers JU52 Automatic 24 jewel movement
Note the crown is well protected and additionally has two what appear blanking plates either side, perhaps a dual purpose case arrangement, and Water Resistance is rated as 100m – the overall look to the case however is one of solidity. The back is an exhibition windowed stainless steel screwed back plate, through which you can see the excellent 24 jewel automatic signed Pointec movement. Dimensions are a neat 40mm diameter x 12 mm and the lug to lug is short enough that this model fits the smaller wrist very well. The strap is a really high quality calf leather with two thicknesses, allowing it to be supportive near the case and yet allow flexibility at the buckle – something others should take note of, as all too often thick leather straps can be overly clumsy at the buckle fixing.
Junkers Tante Automatic leather strap with bespoke buckle.
The high quality leather strap, which is quite soft, has an unusual flat twin pin buckle and is one of the most comfortable straps I’ve ever owned.
Another feature is in the wearing. It is one of those watches that for whatever reason, just feels right on the wrist, it is extremely comfortable and a delight to wear and certainly makes me interested in enlarging my Junkers collection. It has also rekindled my love of German brand watches, which seem to have undergone a bit of a revival over the last few years – and I confess to perhaps overlooking them. But no longer, as I will feature a few more in future Posts I’m sure in the not too distant future.
Addendum – 21st July 2021
Well here we are some 6 years on and the Junkers Tante is as good as it was when I bought it. It runs as smooth as silk and as I said in the original Post, it is such a nice watch to wear. Presently, my preferred watch on the wrist for the foreseeable few weeks at least.
Interesting is the inspiration for this watch, which was from the Junkers Ju52/3m aircraft, first produced back in 1930. The designer, Ernst Zindal, used a highly controversial corrugated duralumin metal skin, as a strengthening measure and it was very striking indeed. This is shown in nice detail on the dial. The aeroplane was known both as Iron Annie and Aunt Ju, hence the name of this watch model “Tante” (Aunt in German).
An early vintage digital Expedition Timex is featured in this post, dated around 1998 (80 M745) in pretty decent all round condition. The digital display is clear and basically as good as the day it was bought. Classed as a Chronograph model the features are more or less what you get in the current Expedition models.
1998 Timex Expedition digital display normal daylight.
Digital display wise – Standard view is along the lower part, hours, minutes and seconds plus an AM/PM indicator and the upper part shows Day, Month and Date. Using the lower left pusher or “mode”, this changes the display in turn to Chronograph (with slit/lap timing), Alarm, Timer (100hrs) and 2nd Time Zone, in that order. This model also features a 12/24hr display option and an Hourly Chime. It has a night light (Indiglo) using the top left pusher which is on as long as the pusher is pressed. All setting is done using the lower right pusher and the top right pusher selects Alarm on or off etc. So quite familiar really to anyone used to using these digital display watches. Note in the images shown here the display shows grey background and black numerals when light is not being reflected off it, however its almost fluorescent when the light strikes at some angles and then appears very high contrast green background with black numerals.
Timex digital display in reflecting light – gives fluorescent contrast
In most conditions it’s pretty good though as most of these, the top data can be slightly over-shadowed by the black surround of the watch face. Still featured on some current watches, though I note many now have a visible face area wider than the numerals, so avoiding any possibility of shadows.
It’s a very neat watch at 39mm diameter and only 9mm depth, so a good bit smaller than current Expedition models. It has spring bars so you can fit any standard strap to it, though it actually measures a slightly non standard, but gettable, 19mm width. I have a Timex “E” quick wrap strap fitted and it is perfect and comfortable.
Timex Expedition on the wrist – very neat.
In a dark almost black resin case, light grey bezel with printed pusher data, the back has a stainless steel plate secured by 4 x corner screws and has it has 100m Water Resistance.
1998 v 2012/13 – watches are getting bigger.
Some of the older Timex models like this one, for me, are often nicer to wear than the present offerings. Only 15 years before the current stuff (an age in electronics of course) the displays funnily enough tended to be neater, as are the watches which were smaller and slimmer and yet managed to portray the excitement of the new Digital age without bulk or large knurled or knobbly bits here and there. They were and still are science fiction in a way, because they’re ground breaking and the core function and the attraction of the watch is not obscured by too much over the top and perhaps unnecessary Dr Who extravagance. Note this model has a battery life of around 6.5 years.
I might yet add more to my digital collection, though perhaps it could be more appropriate to call it my Timex collection, as I seem to be acquiring more of these by the week! Whatever – I’m sure it won’t be the last!
UPDATE – 4th August 2014
Started to get a little erratic this morning and I decided to check out and hopefully replace the battery – assuming this was the problem. Removed the 4 back screws and realized this was a different style of module that I am used to. The center part is a round cover which is actually clipped on to the very large CR2016 battery! The cover is held down by 3 screws to the module board. Simply removed these and un-clipped the battery from the cover once it was in my hand. Replaced the battery by clipping the cover over it, then dropped the cover and battery assembly on to the board, lining up the 3 screw holes and screwed it back in place. Writing on the cover says to “press this” to reset after battery change, referring I think to small metal contact on the module. However on turning the watch over I saw that the digits were indicating fine, so skipped that instruction. Replaced the back of the watch and set the time data. All functions are working perfectly now including the back light, which actually was the first problem I saw prior to replacing the battery. Instead of lighting, it indicated code and altered the time setting to 12:00. This I suspected was the lack of power – hence the battery change today. It took me about 10 minutes start to finish.
Sorry I didn’t think to take photographs, but suffice to say it was very easy to manage.
UPDATE – 16th July 2021
Well here we are some 7 years later after the last battery change. The watch is still working perfectly, display showing just great and a testament to the longevity of this classic Timex Expedition watch. The only thing I had to do was correct the day from the 18th to the 16th (today) and re-adjust the time slightly – it was 5 minutes fast – which is not bad after 7 years from an early quartz.
Thought I’d re-post this after 20 years of ownership (first Posted in 2013, bought in 1999 or 2000) in reference my Breitling Aerospace (Repetition minutes) as a reminder of how good this old watch was and still is.
Just realised the other day that I’ve never actually posted about my favourite daily beater I’ve worn for the last 15 years. My Breitling Aerospace Titanium that I bought when on business in Glasgow. After some lunch I happened to be strolling past a jewellers and there it was and I simply loved it – went in with no hesitation and bought it. And I still think it was and still is the best and most practical watch purchase I ever made.
1999? Aerospace – a single crown chronograph classic
Now some folks think Breitling watches are big, flashy and cumbersome, but with this model nothing could be further from the truth. It’s titanium, it’s very light and unlike many of today’s current crop, it’s very slim at just 9mm in depth and a case diameter of only 40mm. With the matching titanium solid link bracelet it’s quite a combination. It slips unobtrusively under a shirt for dress occasions but also is the business when it comes to everyday wear – AND it’s probably a statement too. This particular version has a quite subtle dial green colour with high contrast numerals and markers.
Taken today – On the wrist – perfect. After 15 years it needs a clean!!
Dial wise – Clarity is all with this watch – the digital date is the clearest to read of ANY watch (it is electro luminescent) I know with an excellent anti-reflection coated flat Sapphire crystal – and slim hands with the so very clever extension of the minute hand over the centre pivot, which makes it so clear when reading the time – plus a nigh on perfect and understated luminous capability at night – it’s about as good as any watch can get in my opinion. The top bezel is click set in two directions and the watch is all Titanium.
All Titanium at it’s best case and solid link (diver extendable) bracelet.
The twin digital display is perhaps one of the clearest I’ve ever seen. It is bright in all light conditions and has a built in fluorescence that makes the numerals stand out perfectly. The lower double height display shows everything you need – either set as shown with Day and Date, Date and Seconds, or Seconds, Alarm time, Chronograph, Current or Dual Time and Timer – the upper display shows which feature is set. I usually have it set as shown with Day and Date and rarely use the other features, though the Dual Time can be useful on holiday as can the Alarm though these days I prefer a vibration alarm however – the old hearing is going!
And this particular version is also what’s called “repetition minutes” – this provides a sonic indication of the hours and minutes simply by pressing on the crown, when the watch display is either showing the neutral (blank digitals) or the local time display, the seconds-date display or the day-date position.
Great when I bought it, but these days I don’t hear too well, so not a lot of use for me. 😦
Another aspect of this watch is the fact that even with all these functions, it only has a single crown, the operation of which has always been perfect. The usual chronograph style pushers and buttons are quite superfluous and is the feature I prefer most over all other chronograph models. And this is due to the excellent Quartz E10.391 movement module (some non repetition minute models have ETA988.332 modules), which has worked perfectly ever since I bought it, without a glitch and I’m so glad it does. (I also suspect this model was actually produced in February 1998, according to my reading of the serial data)
I understand that should there be an issue, God forbid, as it’s no longer made, there is an upgrade available (but at some cost!). I believe the replacement is the E10.351.5 plus a replacement watch back 130.F65062.SQ, as the module dimensions are different. Fortunately in my case not necessary! 😉
I said that clarity was terrific on this watch and this is it shown against some of my other models as a comparison – and that date clarity – amazing. Whilst the digits are not illuminated (there is no light feature on the watch) it is amazing how the digits stand out – completely superior to the usual digits on the other watches in the image.
I think the Breitling (left) – is the clearest of them all! Electro-luminescence rules!
The Breitling dial also shows just how good the anti-reflection coating is and how clever the hands/display clarity actually is – see how the digits really stand out – it always impresses me! The Citizen watches shown are OK but neither compare when doing the quick glance and checking the date.
Another good point about this Aerospace – it holds a decent pre-owned value today – so a good buy (the Citizens have dropped value and the centre one was pricier)
However, as with everything being a premium Brand, Breitling always recommend you send it to them for a new battery when needed. And OK this is what they call added value aftersales, yes?
Well I did just that after the first 5 years of use (silly me) and it was a bit expensive I have to say. Though looking back on it all those years ago and in fairness, they not only changed the battery, but also updated the dial and more or less overhauled the whole thing, so perhaps it was worth it. Effectively they provided a full service.
However I don’t think they’d do that anymore – in fact I am certain!
But on 10/05/2020 I simply snapped off the back (never understood why this was not a screw back) swapped out the 977 battery, ensured the back was replaced in the correct positioning, snapped the back on again, reset the date, month, day, time etc. And it’s working perfectly again.
I would note on the single crown operation, initially I found it tricky to operate.
When I first did this I followed the instructions – which said – The Months adjust with a fast spin of the crown as do some other adjustments, others are with a slow turn. This is done with the crown out, but even in this position there is not much to grip – so a fiddly thing to do. And that’s the issue – It’s tempting to rub a finger along it to spin it quickly, but beware this can put undue sideways pressure on the spindle which is not a good idea.
BUT since then I’ve discovered after having the watch for so long, that their idea of fast and mine are different. Initially I did my fast – and realised after having bought a Tissot Two timer watch with a similar module, that their fast was actually just steady as opposed to slow. Since then no issues at all – so my bad!
So, this is still my number one daily watch and a battery change will be possibly next year. So steady, not fast is the watchword. A bit like me really!
However, I thought I’d have a look at Tissot, 11 years on and have to say, they really have moved on! Same fundamentals, but really updated to part smart watch to whatever you need it to be. Awesome.
Watch space 
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