Ones I would like. . . 1

Trouble with watch collecting is that all too often I see new, or perhaps older models I may be unfamiliar with, that for some reason or other suddenly become objects of desire – that is – I want one!   And there are quite a few, so over the next occasional posts I’ll feature some of them.  Who knows they may interest some other folks as well – maybe even decide a Christmas present or two at the same time. . . 😉

The first one is from a Manufacturer I really like – the Swiss company – Xemex – a young company founded in 1996 by designer Ruedi Kulling, that continually designs in my opinion simply stunning watches  –

This particular one is a wonderful timepiece with two rather clever features.  First is the typical Xemex extraordinary articulated lug arrangement that allows it to fit even the smallest wrist and second, an amazingly large clear face virtually the diameter of the watch.  Dimensions wise it’s really deceptive at only 40mm wide but dominated by the dial, so it looks really impressive on the wrist, without the bulk.

Xemex Piccadilly “Hours”

Xemex Piccadilly “Hours”

The watch is also very well made and the design is such that chunky, angular, but rounded and solid, are all terms that can equally describe this lovely model and in fact their entire range.   This one is from the Piccadilly series and is known as the “Hours” model.  It is slightly quirky (which I like) in that it looks just like any standard chronograph with side pushers, but these actually control the oddly large secondary “hour” sub dial.  The single pointer in fact records hours (I suppose this could be called an “hours” chrono) – so no spinning seconds whizzing round or minutes – countdown or elapsed time style.  But actually simply recording hours and maybe half hours is very useful for those parking meters or meetings that are forever running over time, or perhaps checking when your plane is going to land.  One quick glance and you know the score.

Very clear white edged skeletal hands for hours and minute regular time against the black dial background and the wonderful Xemex red sweep seconds centre hand, white dot markers and a date window @3, plus that thin front bezel allows great dial visibility.  A solid screw down logo’d crown and a sapphire crystal completes the description looks wise.  Internally this is a high quality Swiss Xemex modified ETA Valjous 7750 movement, which is visible through an exhibition back.

Now if my own XE5000 model is anything to go by, this will be one very accurate, smooth and dependable watch.

Butterfly clasp Xemex rubber strap compliments the whole ensemble and this is definitely one watch I intend at some point – to get myself or perhaps an Xmas present could be coaxed? from family. . .

There are a good few other models from true chronographs to Big Date and GMT etc. so quite a range to tempt.  They all have one thing in common – perfect fit, a sort of “elegance with power” look and very high quality throughout.

I don’t think I need any more convincing – this will be the next one. . . . I’m sure or I would be if I had the money!  It’s a little bit more expensive than most of my picks. so I may have to wait. . . .


Xemex XE 5000

A new addition to my Modern Collection is this neatly designed Swiss made Xemex XE 5000, which I have been looking at for some time as it meets the most important criteria I require for an everyday watch.

Beautifully simple design, large clear hands with lume infill, day and date with great dial contrast and excellent readability – and with the bonus of articulated lugs can fit my smallish 170mm wrist perfectly.

Xemex XE5000

Designed by Ruedi Kulling, this watch simply shouts “design” and whilst initially looking minimalist, is in fact very practical and to my mind pretty good looking too.  At 40mm diameter and 12mm depth it is not a large watch by any means, though the beautifully polished and satin fished case plus the heavy articulated lugs with the large bracelet screws, makes it look much larger that it actually is.
With the solid stainless steel (316l) crystal screw down back with crystal exhibition window inset it is rated as 50m water resistance, assisted by the side screw down and recessed crown – a neat feature allowing the watch to have a very clean profile indeed.

On the wrist too is manages to fit even a small wrist with the movable lugs contributing to the over all “fit” of this watch very well and coupled with the high quality rubber butterfly bracelet, which is adjustable.  I say adjustable as like many straps of this design it requires cutting to shorten if wrists are small.  Not an issue in itself but if selling the watch on at any time, this is a pity for large wrists as a new strap will have to be acquired.

Perfect fit - automatic Day Date Xemex 5100.03 model

ETA 2836-2 with modified rotor

Note the well proven ETA 2836-2 Swiss movement which has a Xemex modified drilled rotor.  Interestingly the watch is signed by the designer “inside” the exhibition glass back.

The movement appears to keep OK time (perhaps a little fast on first usage I have to say) and generally in keeping with this movement though whether the drilled rotor improves accuracy is rather debatable – and the spring reserve is as expected at about 42 hours.

As to the dial – it is an excellent contrasting arrangement with luminous hands and markers and the typical Xemex trademark red sweep second hand.  The day and date are @3 and highlighted in white and is clear to read.  Over the dial is a curved sapphire crystal glass.

This particular design XE5000 was a winner at the “Golden Balance Wheel” awards in 2006 and is still currently available at a reasonable price inclusive of a 2 year Guarantee.

My final verdict on this watch is that it’s a fairly well priced “mid range” model, a little different from the mainstream, well made within this price bracket and actually quite similar in quality to the Traser model I own.  It is excellent to read, clarity being a strong point of the dial design, the rotor movement is relatively quiet and it’s comfortable to wear.

It’s also not been off my wrist for about the last fortnight, so I must like it. . . .as a daily beater at any rate.