Divers-ity

As one of my previous posts recently showed, there are many choices when it comes to “Divers” models, especially when considering major brands. There are also other models from Casio, Invicta and Momentum to name just a few. There are also others that advertise as Divers, but for me I only consider “dive rated” models at 200m or better. Plus basic features such as good dial legibility under water, large hands and numerals, good luminous qualities, a screw down crown and a uni-directional bezel.

I highlight here some that caught my attention, starting with the classic Seiko “Monster” Divers SKX781K, Automatic in Orange and black versions – one that I particularly like.

This is an absolute classic Divers watch and very popular with good reason. Solid chunky watch in Stainless Steel watch with high visibility dial and contrasting hands and markers, rated at 200m Water Resistance and with a large uni-directional bezel that is a delight to use. The bezel markings are sharp and clear with the conventional 15, 30 and 45 minute graduations in large high contrast figuring with a luminous dot marker at Zero. The orange dial also features a Day and Date in a nicely outlined window @3 again with good contrast luminous figures and large enough not to require any magnifier bubble. The luminous system used is Seiko Lumibrite, which for me has one of the best luminous properties of any (I don’t include Tritium light source technology). The large screw down crown is very well protected by the projecting case profile on one side and the cleverly extended solid case lug on the other. The mechanical automatic movement is the dependable 7S26 which has reasonable accuracy at around +/- 25 secs/day – not quite in the quartz bracket, but good for a mechanical model. The crystal is the Seiko in-house “Hardlex” which is a good combination of scratch and shatter resistance.

Seiko "Monster" in black — Seiko “Monster” in black

These models are available from around $120 to $160 depending on discounts etc. and represent superb value when you consider these are from a major Manufacturer with good guarantees and service back up.

I have not included Citizen this time as featured some in the previous post on Divers, so this time I’m looking at other brands that offer a similar capability, such as Momentum from the St Moritz Watch Company of Canada. They have quite a neat range of 200m Water Resistance “Divers”, though I find it difficult to know what’s current and what’s discontinued. Of several Diver models I have opted for and particularly like the Shadow 11 model (IM-DV86B0), which is a good sized black IP coated stainless steel version at 41mm x 12mm case size. It has a quartz movement with Day/Date window @3, luminous hands and markers with a second hand with arrow tip. The uni-directional bezel is well defined, though as others in the Brand, they use slightly unconventional 20, 30, 40 and 50 minute markers (another model uses, 5, 15, 25, 35, 45 and 55, which I find confusing). There is also an offset semi-protected screw down crown.

This model version has black IP 316L steel case and bracelet, though my next featured watch has the more usual stainless finish. The Momentum Storm 11 model, which I find more compact looking in case a dial set up, perhaps as I’m more used to the Seiko and Citizen models, but certainly worth considering.

The dial on both models appear quite Seiko looking with the round markers and so on which I find very pleasing. The prices of both watches seem to be in the same bracket as the more popular models and certainly shows there are no shortage of models in this Divers category.
Another brand at the low end of this price bracket is the Invicta Watch Group, a US Company trading on the original Swiss Invicta Watch Company name since 1991 and they feature a few Diver category models in their range.

Invicta ProDiver 8926 Automatic — Invicta Pro Diver 8926 Automatic

A more Rolex Submariner looking watch you’re unlikely to see, which can be got for around $80 or £65+ in the UK (may be subject to VAT and customs here in the UK). Good looking 200m Water Resistance model with uni-directional 120 click bezel with good markings and that luminous Dot at Zero. It uses a Miyota 21j automatic mechanical movement and has a mineral crystal. The movement from memory does not have the best power reserve, so unless you are pretty active it could be an issue. The later model 9937 the features a 23j movement, where the power reserve is improved, a sapphire crystal and better magnifier date window. Though the date is actually OK for me on this model. A screw down protected crown @3 and watch dimensions are 40 x 12mm, so is a really neat sized Divers watch which will suit the smaller wrist. Rolex style dial with luminous hands and markers, plus center sweep seconds hand, sets off a rather handsome watch.
As long as you don’t expect Rolex quality, this watch should manage quite well, but time will tell in the long run.

So a few more Divers to consider and I hope to have a more in depth look at the Seiko “Monster” and the Citizen BN models in the near future, which should be fun as I’m hoping to replace some of my older Divers and move them on.

That’s diversity for you.

Variety!

It never ceases to amaze me the sheer variety of watches and watch designs that are out there. From the incredibly good to the mind numbingly bad and yet somebody somewhere, will love the look of whatever it is and then buy it. Whether its the color, the sheer extravagance or whatever, there truly seems to be a watch model for everyone.

This is just a quick selection and for reference and I’ve listed the models below as one of them could just be the little gem you’ve been waiting for! – you never know!

In no particular order – All prices are UK.

Stuhrling Original 204A.33 Sports Fleet Street, Day/Date, Yellow, Quartz – approx £140

Shhors Rubber LCD LED092 Ladies, Day/Date – £10.49 (I call this the “Lego” watch! – the bracelet can be altered to change color sequence)

Shark Day/Date,24hr, Mens Yellow SH091 – £30 approx.

Seiko 5 Sports Navy Blue Day/Date Automatic self winder SRP351 – £113.00

Harley Davidson (aka Bulova) Gents model 78C103 – £248

Invicta multifunction IP Day/Date Model 43658-004 – £113

Cavena Noni Big Da/Date, Alarm Dual Time, Quartz, CVN019 – £23

Giulio Romano GR-3000-13-001 Piemonte, Luminous, IP plated, Dual Time, Day/Date – £140

Lancaster OLAO461SLYGNR Yellow, Gold IP Day/Date – £170

All the above are Day and Date models and just a fraction of the sheer variety of models, that without the power of the internet, you would simply never get a chance to see, let alone buy. Such is the fascination of this watch business, that in the time it took to post this, there are literally hundreds and hundreds of new designs, new models already being offered and amazingly new ideas of presenting the time on your wrist! I have not included the weird form of interpretation of time, with lights and codes etc. as these are just not my thing at all! These I find far too complicated as what I prefer is to be able to read and understand the time at a glance. Not that some of this first collection can also be tricky, but there is for me a limit.

And would I buy any of the above? Well for me personally no, but I know somebody will. Yet I do find some of the ideas and presentation quite fascinating. I love, for example, the Ladies Shhors “lego” building brick bracelet watch, just for the sheer fun of it and the fact that from a fashion point of view, to be able to mix around the segments of the bracelet blocks to give a different look, is fun.

And I had forgotten that particular Seiko 5 model, the Sports Cal 4R36, 24 jewel automatic, with it’s wonderful Day/Date window @3, broad luminous hands with a great center seconds arrow hand, a Hardlex crystal and 100m Water Resistance. As one of my pals used to say – “it’s an absolute belter!” and he’d be right as it is indeed a very stylish watch. Too easy to forget that Seiko make an enormous number of mechanical automatic models, most of which we never see here in the UK, which is a great shame as they represent excellent value for money.

The Cavena Noni Big Date/day ana-digi is also quite a striking watch and one I’d personally never heard of before. A low cost model it may be, but design-wise it looks pretty good to me. And the others more or less picked at random from the almost limitless selection available, again simply show the fantastic variety and so much so that I’ll probably have another trawl around and see what turns up.

Variety! It never ceases to astound me.

Casio & silicon deployment

My last post featured a Casio model and I mentioned that fitting a replacement strap such as a NATO one would be tricky owing to the space between the spring bars and the case being too neat. However, this is the silicon deployment fold-over strap that I thought might do, IF I was able to fit one – I did and this is it.

5 Minutes with a craft knife and in my opinion a much better fit than standard.

The actual strap size or more accurately the spring bar gap in the lugs is 18mm, but an 18mm silicon strap does not do the watch justice. I would note that the original Casio strap was not 18mm either, but closer to 20mm and suits the overall look just fine.

SO, I took a 20mm strap and carefully (with a craft knife) reduced it at the pin ends either side to allow for the lugs and to enable fitting to the 18mm gap. The wider strap sets of the watch really well – and here is the result.

Alternative silicon deployment strap, 20mm on 18mm lugs.

The upside is a much neater wrist fit as the flexibility and flat profile of this strap holds the watch closer to the wrist and it doesn’t move. I often find that rubber or resin straps with buckles (as opposed to deployment) can annoyingly move the watch around the wrist. Sometimes you have to strap on too tightly to stop this, but if for example it’s a “diver’s” style ribbed profile strap it then digs in to your wrist and is uncomfortable. This alternative softer silicon strap with it’s simple deployment eliminates any problem.

In fact this was so successful, I may have a look in my watch boxes and see if there are others that could benefit from this treatment – also as these straps are only £7 to £9 approximately, it’s not a daft idea!

Ones I would like. . . 1

Trouble with watch collecting is that all too often I see new, or perhaps older models I may be unfamiliar with, that for some reason or other suddenly become objects of desire – that is – I want one! And there are quite a few, so over the next occasional posts I’ll feature some of them. Who knows they may interest some other folks as well – maybe even decide a Christmas present or two at the same time. . . 😉

The first one is from a Manufacturer I really like – the Swiss company – Xemex – a young company founded in 1996 by designer Ruedi Kulling, that continually designs in my opinion simply stunning watches –

This particular one is a wonderful timepiece with two rather clever features. First is the typical Xemex extraordinary articulated lug arrangement that allows it to fit even the smallest wrist and second, an amazingly large clear face virtually the diameter of the watch. Dimensions wise it’s really deceptive at only 40mm wide but dominated by the dial, so it looks really impressive on the wrist, without the bulk.

The watch is also very well made and the design is such that chunky, angular, but rounded and solid, are all terms that can equally describe this lovely model and in fact their entire range. This one is from the Piccadilly series and is known as the “Hours” model. It is slightly quirky (which I like) in that it looks just like any standard chronograph with side pushers, but these actually control the oddly large secondary “hour” sub dial. The single pointer in fact records hours (I suppose this could be called an “hours” chrono) – so no spinning seconds whizzing round or minutes – countdown or elapsed time style. But actually simply recording hours and maybe half hours is very useful for those parking meters or meetings that are forever running over time, or perhaps checking when your plane is going to land. One quick glance and you know the score.

Very clear white edged skeletal hands for hours and minute regular time against the black dial background and the wonderful Xemex red sweep seconds centre hand, white dot markers and a date window @3, plus that thin front bezel allows great dial visibility. A solid screw down logo’d crown and a sapphire crystal completes the description looks wise. Internally this is a high quality Swiss Xemex modified ETA Valjous 7750 movement, which is visible through an exhibition back.

Now if my own XE5000 model is anything to go by, this will be one very accurate, smooth and dependable watch.

Butterfly clasp Xemex rubber strap compliments the whole ensemble and this is definitely one watch I intend at some point – to get myself or perhaps an Xmas present could be coaxed? from family. . .

There are a good few other models from true chronographs to Big Date and GMT etc. so quite a range to tempt. They all have one thing in common – perfect fit, a sort of “elegance with power” look and very high quality throughout.

I don’t think I need any more convincing – this will be the next one. . . . I’m sure or I would be if I had the money! It’s a little bit more expensive than most of my picks. so I may have to wait. . . .

That “singular” watch

My “Single Handed” watch model choice (well this week anyway!) would have to be the MeisterSinger Perigraph, which I think embodies the best of the Modern and the Classic. A most elegant steel cased Single Handed Date Watch.

Whilst the rest of the affordable Single and One Hand 24hr offerings appear to offer a more modernist approach, the MeisterSinger has that classical look, that as a watch collector I just love. What I call a “proper watch” and one that I can wear both for everyday and for evening wear – in essence a rather refined, under-stated and elegant watch.
Two sizes are available, 43mm and my personal preference this 38mm model, with it’s slightly old world Ivory coloured dial face and with the neatl date ring complication (the Date Perigraph) is about as refined as you can get. It is also a really Traditional time piece sporting a good mechanical Automatic movement – the Swiss Sellita SW200 (similar and as good in my opinion as the ETA calibre). With a 48hr power reserve, a full 50m Water resistance, scratch resistant Sapphire Crystal and the very precise 144 markers denoting 5 minute intervals on the outer chapter, it’s a cracking watch.

The date ring is very clear, the days nicely figured and the single hand is blued steel – showing excellent contrast and no worries reading this watch. When the date changes it makes a nice satisfying click as it moves to the next day. The large and properly knurled crown, exhibition crystal back and decent leather strap completes what for me, so far, is my very favourite Single Handed watch.

However with reference to the previous post and the Botta series of more modernist watches, there are quite a few others on the scene – such as these shown below.

new — Defakto Uno, Detail & Danish Design – 24hr Single Hands

The models in the above montage are –

The Defakto Eins Automatic Swiss movement ETA 2824-2. At 42mm diameter Stainless PVD coated case, 9.8mm depth and 50m Water Resistance, Luminous hand and indexes with leather strap. With 15 minute indexing, but a little clunky for my personal taste. Note – this is Single Hand AND a 24hr watch.

The Defakto Detail model is a much finer affair with indexes at 5 minute intervals (short lines), 15minutes (medium lines) and Hour markers (the longest), which are very fine, so a high degree of accuracy is achieved in comparison to the Previous model. The case body carrying a Ronda Quartz 715 inside means the sizing is neater at only 6.6mm depth. A Sapphire crystal with an inner Anti-reflection coating completes the specification and I understand this is the latest model to come out of Pforzheim, in Germany. Note – this is Single Hand AND a 24hr watch.

Danish Design (DD) IQ19Q820 Black Titanium Mono – again Quartz powered but with a dial design very like the others with the addition of a date window @6. Also as neater and better dimensionally to the Defaktos at 37mm diameter and only 6mm depth – quite a nice performer. Again Note – this is a Single Hand 24hr watch.

Of these three examples I think I prefer the Danish Design quality look and feel and if in the market for one of the “modern” style 24hr models, I would be looking very seriously at the Botta Uno 24 or the Danish Design.

And of course there are a few more that are much more expensive, such as Pita, Stark, Schauer, Angular Momentum and my out of reach and very expensive – Jaquet Droz Grand Heure. But for now or until I win the lottery and at not too monstrous a price is the MeisterSinger Perigraph, which I think combines both the modern and the classic to perfection.

But really if honest and bearing in mind my budget, it has to be the MeisterSinger every time!

Cool watches

I’ve been having a trawl round looking at various watches and noting the incredible range of styles and ideas that proliferate the market today. It’s interesting to note the number of Fashion and Designer Companies that are into producing and/or marketing their unique “take”on watches and indeed how we read time. They are also being taken much more seriously I think as the apparent quality seems to be improving, though as I’ve found “quality” is to me a much maligned word today! But for those who wish a more modern style to the simple old watch on the wrist, these models are certainly “something different” and shows perhaps the personality of the wearer in a bold light.

Anyway I hope to spotlight a few of the cool, odd, big or small and often downright interesting watches I’ve recently spotted and will feature them here and who knows I might even manage to buy the odd one (but not too odd I hope).

First off is the DIESEL DZ7250 in colored stainless steel with leather strap and one BIG watch it is too (far too big for me). . . .

Definitely not for the faint of heart. Four separate watches in one apparently (including a chronograph, digital and two analog clocks) allows you to navigate multiple time zones without losing a second or so the adverts say and it IS big at 66mm x 57mm and 13mm depth. A 27mm leather strap is also fitted and it has a Water resistance of 3ATM – so no diving I’m afraid, which is a pity – but there we are.
This an example of a Fashion house timepiece and pretty impressive it looks too, though for my smallish wrist, alas not a contender for me. Diesel watches are certainly noticeable and without doubt Diesel design timepieces will get you noticed. They also feature a huge array of functions, very modern materials and interesting colour schemes.

Italian design and pretty decent workmanship means Diesel have quite a following – not least owing to the range – and as shown here – yet another but quite different model –

Now this model for me is much more practical, being a nice 45mm x 38mm and with the very clear digital readout, and whilst it reminds me strongly of the very much more expensive Seiko Active Matrix EPD, this doesn’t feature ink technology, it is however still remarkably legible. The Diesel design house touch is very noticeable here and it certainly looks good on the wrist.
It also for me is better looking and better value than the Ventura V Tec Kappa, the Junghams Mega 1000, or the Citizen Aibato M and a huge improvement on the older Casio W96’s you used to see everywhere (though of course these were a budget watch). However this one at around £89.00 I would have to say is pretty good value if you’re in the market for a digital readout watch.

My last spotlight watch is another digital concept, but not Diesel and in fact a much older and better known watch producer LIP – they had and still have some wonderfully innovative design concepts in time reading, as you can see with the following model – the wonderful iconic mechanical “jump hour” Mach 2000. From a design concept of the 1970’s, a case & bracelet design by Roger Tallon, the jump hour display of Prince Francois de Baschmakoff, put together into an new concept by designer Prisca Briquet.

Snap_2012.09.08 14.56.38_006 — LIP iconic design Mach 2000

Here three separate discs for hours, minutes, and seconds rotate exposed on the dial and line up in the vertical viewing loop located at the foot of the dial. Powered by a Swiss Quartz movement, surprisingly this watch is NOT big at all but has a very neat 35mm square case, although the wide stainless bracelet arrangement camouflages this very well. To keep the sleek look the crown is neatly recessed into the case/bracelet at the 12 o clock position.

Known as the Mythic Metal Jump watch (in brown) it can be found for around $289.00 today with a bit of searching around.

So three designer watches and I can easily see me wearing two of them! – that’s not bad for a small wrist guy. Don’t know about you, but I found this post quite intriguing (and I wrote it!) – and it looks as if I’ll be trawling around some more and might even devote a special page to “Designer Cool Watches” or similar, but it could easily start to cost me money!!! LOL

Jaeger LeCoultre vintage

A great era for watches of distinction for me is the 1945 to 1955 period when some of the most wonderful dress watches appeared. Moving away from the rectangular ’30’s and ’40’s styles towards the round case watches that are probably still the most common today. Here is a beauty – a solid 18ct Rose Gold Jaeger leCoultre from around 1949-1952 era in perfect condition.

Jaeger18ct02 — Jaeger LeCoultre 18ct Rose Gold vintage dress watch

This watch has an oyster colored dial with applied gold markers, with an inner ring showing Arabic numbers at 3, 9 and 12, with gold dagger hands, sub second dial and an acrylic glass. The case is hallmarked on the lugs as 18ct gold and the watch is 34mm diameter (35mm with crown), so a most sensible size in amongst the oversize stuff that seems to be around these days and very wearable.

The back is unmarked and pristine and the watch is fitted to an alligator leather strap and is in about as perfect condition as any pre-owned vintage watch I’ve seen and a worthy addition to my vintage collection. I have two vintage collections actually – the first comprises items I may pick up at local auctions or fairs, hopefully at low prices and mostly are simple vintage pieces and where the maker does not influence me greatly, but for whatever reason they take my fancy, though obviously I look for reasonably good examples. The second collection however is for more collectable pieces and of higher quality basically, and here Jaeger LeCoultre certainly fits this category.

Additional images –

P1040509web — Clean back – no inscriptions

P1040510web — Classic Jaeger LeCoultre dress vintage

The problem with my second vintage collection is of course – the cost! Invariably it means that I have to sell some of the lesser ones to afford to stock my more upmarket display, but that’s life I suppose and part of the fun of collecting. You get what you can afford at the time and at other times you build up the modest collection as a bank – to be used later when the “must have” item comes along – and it keeps the watches moving on and gives others the chance to enjoy them for a while.
I’ll post as and when – I have the time!

The Ambassador – from Android

A surprisingly excellent model from those folks at Android USA – the Ambassador 11 Swiss complication watch (Triple Date Calendar model)

AndroidAmb01 — Ambassador 11 Swiss moonphase – Triple Date Calendar model

Not in the “way out” style I associate Android with at all, this is a rather elegant polished stainless steel cased Ambassador model, which features as it’s power source the excellent Swiss Ronda 5 jewel 706.B. This model has displays for – month, date, day, moon phase, in addition to the hour, minute and center seconds hands. This particular dial also shows an index for week numbers of the year, so will appeal to businessmen as a very smart and useful dress watch.
The dial is silver/white and the hands a very good contrasting blue steel, including the seconds hand, so despite all the complications it is an easy watch to read. The month indicator has a curve pointer at the end which is colored yellow.

Having such complications it is important as to when you change them you make sure that you manage this task at the correct time so as not to damage the mechanics of the movement. Often the watch instructions are not as detailed as the movement instructions and I prefer to use the latter when it comes to settings.

Whilst the instructions that come with the Android are OK, a slightly more detailed set is available from Ronda on their own very good web site.
For example to change any calendar functions it should not really be done between 11.30pm and 05.30am as automatic changes are usually in progress at these times. The initial setting of the moon phase also requires a bit of concentration and as with my other moon phase models – my advice is – Don’t lose the instructions! or better still download a copy of the Ronda ones and keep it on your computer.

Basically moon phase functions are initially set (and done only once) by selecting the day of the last full moon, then set the date pusher to that date. Then using the crown set your current situation and that’s it done. For other settings the watch has some quick change pushers for the week and the date. The pusher @2 moves the Month and Week Number and the lower pusher @5 changes the date.

The hour, minute, day and date hands and markers are infilled with luminous material and look pretty good in low light. Of course as with many of these, they will tend to fade after an hour or so, but they’re reasonable. In daylight and for basic clarity this model excels as the dial layout is really well thought out and exceptionally clear to read. It is certainly in my opinion a very smart looking model without being flashy – in fact a true “dress” watch that seems to fit it’s purpose very well.

At 42mm diameter and 12mm height this is a nice modern watch size (ex crown). In fact to find such a nice watch at this size in the Android stable is quite a find, as all too often many models in their range tend (for gents) to be over-sized for me.

Now with such a busy dial face you could be forgiven if thinking that it might be cluttered and in fact nothing could be further from reality. Everything is well spaced and lettered cleverly to be highly visible. Note that the hour numerals are applied blue painted and stand out from the other black printed texts – quite a subtle arrangement. I also note that the Android logo is neatly managed in a non bold typeface which says all it needs to say but is both neat and unobtrusive.

The case is a solid chunk of highly polished stainless steel and Water Resistant to 100m which is nice to see in a dress watch of this type. The crystal is a slightly domed convex hardened mineral glass. The complication pushers are on the right side of the case either side of the crown and virtually hidden. The 22mm wide strap is good quality, if rather stiff, Croco embossed Italian leather fitted to quick release lug pins and with a matching polished steel Android logo buckle I have to say seems to compliment the watch very well. However as with a few of my watches I changed the strap for a Silicon deployment style and it looks really good fitted.

Overall I’m very pleased with this addition to my Android collection (I knew the first one wouldn’t be the last!) and I can see me wearing this quite often as one of my favorite dress watches.

Any negatives? Well. . . no actually. . . it is what it is – a very nice watch indeed. I love it!

Update January 2013 –

Well this model has lived up to my expectations big time. It has not yet had to adjust or correct the time which shows the quality of the Ronda movement. No issues at all as this watch has functioned perfectly since I bought it. I’ve since been looking for another Triple Date Calendar watch and found nothing in this price bracket that even approaches at it terms of looks or quality. It’s just a pity it’s not available now as I think Android had themselves a real winner here and maybe didn’t realize it. Maybe I should tell them!

Movado class

A new addition to my collection is this very tidy two tone (pre-owned) Movado. Slightly smaller than a Patek Philippe Calatrava this is a neat gents or unisex size, but it’s perfect for my 165mm wrist and as I like it so much – I’m afraid my wife will miss out on this one! Not much data on it but dated perhaps to around 2000 though possibly earlier and model name unknown, but is signed MOVADO logo on the face and a sub reference to the ESQ range on the back. Unusually it has a 14kt Gold filled rotating bezel (not quite sure why) atop a stainless steel polished, slim case, but this watch has real presence.

It had a coloured leather strap when I bought it, but I decided to fit in it’s place this nice Hadley 12kt gold filled expandable bracelet with contrasting black enamel panels which cried out to meet up with this gem of a watch. And they do seem to get on very well together.

I’ve always admired Movado watches and this is my first one and OK it’s quartz and not mechanical, but I really don’t mind, as it’s the style of this one that so attracted me. Well defined blue steel hands against an unusual and delicate eggshell blue face with Roman numerals at 12. 3, 6 and 9, then gold applied chapter markers leading outwards to very neat and individual minute index block numerals (5 minute intervals + single minute markers in black). I like too the red 60, 15, 30 and 45 marks – it’s really a beautifully set out dial with the MOVADO logo @ centre 12 and a discrete “Swiss Made” at the foot. A contrasting white coloured seconds sub-dial @6 with a gold coloured hand completes the dial detail.

Movado02 — Stylish Movado with Hadley bracelet

Topped off with a 14kt gold filled unidirectional milled bezel marked in 12 graduations and a @12 centre datum gives the watch a nice solidity and contrasting two tone colour scheme against the rest of the very finely made stainless steel casing. The flat sapphire crystal is virtually reflection free, though I’m not aware of an anti-reflect coating.

That solid look makes it appear in the images like a much larger watch – in fact the dimensions are neat at 32/36mm diameter and a slim 7mm depth.

The movement is a high end Swiss quartz 13 jewel with a 1.55v lithium battery as the power source and good for 3 years at least. Stainless steel back with the ESQ logo, Water Resistant and model/serial numbers completes the details of this watch.

I did have another strap – high quality camel leather one in brown which would be an alterative (much better than the one I bought it with) which would match , but I have to confess I love the Hadley bracelet on it and whilst I’m not normally a fan of expandable ones, this one looks great and is really comfortable – once past the hairs issue ‘getting’ it on, so it might just stay as it is.

In fact I am absolutely delighted with this watch and I’m sure it will be one of the “dress” watches in my collection that I’ll never tire of wearing – and that’s surely a very good recommendation for any watch.

I also haven’t found out too much about this model at all. What model is it? What year of production and what price would it have retailed for?

As usual, anyone out there who has definite model information – I would be very grateful to hear from you. . . .

Update –The ESQ or Esquire range was launched as a subsidiary by Movado in 1995, but unable to find much reference to the early model names.

Boccia Chrono

Sometimes you come across a watch or in this case a complete range of watches that for some reason strikes a chord. And as I am quite a collector of Titanium watches it was of considerable interest that I chanced upon the Boccia range (pronounced Boschia).

Boccia01 — Boccia Titanium Chronograph Cal.05.11

I don’t know about you but I have found that many of these “designer” watches often use too much chrome in their dials, with numerals and hands not being the easiest to read – too much ” bling” I suppose, a fashion I personally dislike. In the Boccia range there are indeed some like that but fortunately not all.

For in amongst this range I spotted the B3777-02 Chronograph model which definitely bucks the trend of their other watches.

First off I like this one as it has that nicely sculpted dark Titanium colored case with matching chronograph buttons and a rather neat and clear dial arrangement. The numeral/markers are both large and very white applied and the hands are similarly done, which contrasts well against the dark dial face. The hour and minute hands are also well proportioned and broad which aids clarity. The chronograph sub-dials are positioned vertically between 12 and 6 and are colored in a medium gray, which is OK and doesn’t detract – a little different from the normal white or silver. A center seconds stopwatch hand in white, plus a contrasting date window @3 and an inner seconds chapter index completes the dial set up.

Boccia02 — Clear hands and numerals makes for clarity

Luminous infill hands and painted numerals, large as they are I would only class adequate in the dark.

Overall however and looks wise this watch from my perspective has a lot going for it.

The crystal is a flat mineral glass and coupled with a narrow top case profile on the wide case, the watch appears larger than it actually is – though not a small watch at 47mm diameter including the protected crown (without crown is around 43mm)and is quite clear to read even without an anti-reflect coating which I usually prefer on this watch type. The overall dial design and colorway has a great deal to do with this clarity which in this case is good design and to be recommended. Depth of the watch is very neat at 10mm.

BocciaBack — Titanium screw down back with watch data

The movement appears to be a Japanese Citizen Miyota Cal. OS 11 Quartz Chronograph (60 minutes) and it functions well and is accurate to around +/-20secs month so is quite acceptable. There is also a chronograph reset function used if the 1/1 second hand doesn’t return to the O position after the chronograph has been reset or after a battery change.

The watch power is a Silver Oxide SR9 27W battery or equivalent.
The watch is marked on the screw down Titanium back as 10bar (100ft) water resistance. I understand all Boccia Chronographs are 10bar.

Build quality appears excellent, the all Titanium case is well finished and the rubber strap is of good quality – Note this watch can also take a standard leather strap as an alternative as the case features standard lugs and pins. A point I’ve made before and I’m really pleased to see it here. In fact thinking further on this, a good Nato strap would suit this model very well if rubber is not your thing. I’ll post an update when I fit one later this month for comparison. (see addendum below)

So what do we know about Boccia watches?

It is marketed from the United States importers Universal Watch Company (NOT to be confused with the UWC of Geneve fame) who have their headquarters in Las Vegas. Watches are said to have either good quality Japanese or sometimes Swiss movements in their range of products and I’m assuming this one is Japanese with the Cal. OS11 description. I’ve not unscrewed the back as I’ve no wish to compromise the water resistance – I’ll check it out when it eventually needs a battery. With no data that I can find as to manufacture location I would surmise the watches are built and produced in the Orient somewhere and nothing wrong with that, though I note that their design team is actually European.

Marina Sechi from Italy
Minuca Casadavell from Spain
Michael Qvortrup from Denmark

I quote the above data from one of their outlets and I can see certainly see the European influence in the finished designs.

So a marriage of European and Orient – and hopefully taking the best from both. If this is an example of East West collaboration then I’ll certainly look out for more of them and especially if this model is a precursor of things to come. They are also reasonably priced for what appears to me to be a decent mid range quality product.

So overall a nice Chronograph in Titanium for a fair bit under £200 and complete with a 2 year International Guarantee and instruction booklet which includes a list of Wordwide Service Centers.

Not much to complain about though perhaps the luminous quality could be improved if I was being picky.

But nevertheless the Boccia Titanium’s are now on my watch list . . . . .

Addendum – I mentioned that I thought this watch might suit a Nato strap – Well I was wrong – it doesn’t.
The reason is that as this watch is quite large lug to lug the Nato strap quite doesn’t sit the watch snug against my smallish wrist (170mm). Regarding the supplied strap which for a buckle version is really very good, I confess with rubber straps a preference to a deployment or fold-over clasp to buckle, so as an alternative I’m in the process of buying a third party 22mm silicon rubber strap with a fold-over clasp and I’ll let you know on an update feature once it arrives and I try it out.
Actually as I write I’m wearing it with the supplied buckle strap and whilst ii is comfortable it has a pronounced curve just at the lugs and if being picky it can’t quite sit against my smallish wrist perhaps as I would like, so the alternative one should be an interesting trial.

See Bocca Addendum – post dated 18th February 2011