Fashion and Design 2

Another small selection of the best design and fashion influenced models around, though the first one, the Raymond Weil is actually a few years old now –

Rayment Weil 7730-STC65021 — Raymond Weil 7730-STC65021

Interesting silver dial with it’s sapphire anti-reflective coated crystal, with a Day and multi-date aperture ‘3. Blue sub-dial hands and the center sweep seconds hand set off a neat color scheme and a well balanced dial layout. The case is stainless steel and 42mm x 14mm with a calfskin 20mm wide strap. The movement is automatic and Water Resistance is 10atm or 100m.

The second choice is from the Parisian jewellery house Chaumet is the Dandy dress watch Big Date with it’s interesting chocolate brown sun-ray dial.

The Chaumet "Dandy" — The Chaumet “Dandy”

The blue small seconds hand is complimented by the blue stitched brown strap and the brown shade duplicated by a matching cabochon on the crown. As a dress watch it is in the same mold as the Briston I reviewed a few weeks ago, though a difference price range obviously, but it has that modern man about town look that seems to be favored by today’s young business set.

The third model is quite different and reflects the retro look of a 1940’s Observers watch – this is the Bell & Ross WWII Régulateur Heritage.

Unusual dial layout and I love the large center minute hand which for me is so reminiscent of a stopwatch, which of course it basically once was.

Sometimes called a “scalloped” case or “pastry cutter” it is so shaped to make it easier for a gloved hand as is the large onion crown (though for me this is on the wrong side) unless I wore it on the right wrist. The case is in stainless steel with a smart gunmetal finish.

As noted the hand layout is a little unusual as it is a “regulator” style where the sub-dial @6 shows the hours and the main sweep hand, the minutes. Seconds is the sub-dial @12.

I also particularly like the articulated lug arrangement that makes for easier wearing from large to small wrists.

However in regards this selection the design of the first is quite classic and on the second, modern and clean. The third Bell & Ross is less about fashion and more about the influence of the original observers watch, but I would never get used to wearing it on the right wrist and so that nice onion crown is wasted. But maybe that’s just me.

Something different (1)

Always on the lookout for “something different” and this week it’s the turn of two rather standout models from Android.

The first one is the rather unique “Rotator” 50 Auto AD739BKR, which as you see wears it’s rotor on the outside and pretty stunning it is too. Every turn of the wrist sets the brightly red colored Rotor spinning around the gray dial and the broad Hour and Minute hands are infilled with Superluminova.

The large 50mm diameter watch case is of IP coated brushed stainless steel with a Japanese SII NH35 automatic 24 jewel movement. The crystal is hardened mineral and screw down crown means a 10ATM 100m Water resistance.

The second model from Android is just about as stunning as the first choice, which is the “Impetus” Double escapement Automatic AD546AS, which being part skeleton has a similar “mobile” feature which is quite eye catching. Smaller case this time at 41mm diameter (mid size) with mineral crystal and a genuine Lizard strap with push/pull clasp buckle band. This model features the Shanghai SHS Automatic 21600, 40 jewel movement.

No doubt that Android produce some interesting models and I particularly like the ones that feature “movement” which certainly gives added interest to what can often be a dull business of telling the time. The gold colored escapement wheels once again give this model a real “visual” something different, which lifts it above the normal.

Band Genuine Lizard Movement Shanghai SHS-05 automatic 21600 vph 40 jewels movement Crystal Mineral Crown Push/Pull Clasp Buckle Band Measurements 9.5″L x 22mm Case Measurements 41mm Water Resistance Function – See more at: http://www.android-usa.com/product-p/

Smart or not so smart?

Well, later this year we are going to be inundated with these peculiar little gadgets called Smart Watches, though to me it seems almost more like a surrealistic exercise in technology for technologies sake. A test of just what else we can miniaturize and stick on the wrist.
Now Smart Phones I understand. I mean these were initially small portable phones using a cell and tower transmitter system, that allowed you the freedom NOT to be tied to the office land line. This then expanded to take link capabilities with Bluetooth then via WiFi to allow integration with other devices and communication with the Internet – and OK all useful in a progressive sort of way.

But now to insist that what we need is another smaller device – a Smart Watch – to attach to your wrist, that will allow you to communicate to your Cell/Smart Phone that’s in your pocket? just a short reach away and probably reached with the same the wrist is attached to – frankly seems bizzarre.

That this “Smart Watch” tries so hard to partly duplicate the features of the Smart Phone and generally failing miserably in that regard, as the main functionality is fully contained IN the Smart Phone already, which begs the question – Why try?

Now if the Smart Phone was tethered to your house – OK, this is fine – but Hey! we’ve done that already – it’s called the Smart nee Cell Phone!

Hellooo! your phone is in your pocket!

I have to suspect we’re all getting carried away and just a tad silly, possibly unreal – and let’s be honest that’s what we’ve got to get back to – reality. We don’t need it! Or more accurately I don’t need it – and I’m a registered, paid up gadget freak!

Now if it this so called Smart Watch took the place of the Smart Phone, completely, then Ooo..K, it’s just possible though debatable it might be handier than the phone in your pocket – and there are some around now that apparently can do just that.

Though another option might be the spectacles or glasses idea (Google) on your face (IF you want to wear the thing), though again it would have to supersede the SmartPhone completely – now that too might be a viable option in future years (maybe next year by the speed things are moving!).

I just have the feeling that whatever we do over the immediate few months and year is disappointingly going to be a series of stop gaps – and being a cynical sort of guy these days, maybe more a transient retail incentive, to cough up for the development costs of all this new technology, most of which will be out of date before you can say –

“Virtual Communication Implant with virtual HUD capabilities” or VCI(HUD) – because that’s what’s coming next – Oh Yes!

OK maybe not this year, but perhaps in 3 to 5 . . . . No watch or cell phone required, but rather a virtual projection system in front of your eyes, surgically implanted just above the ear . . .

Wow! – and I’m thinking here it might make my golf easier too with all the course and hole data right there! With HUD Head Up Display info in 3D projection!

Talk about having your head in the clouds!

I think I’ll give it a miss for now and anyway I’ve got to make a call – now where IS that phone?

Seiko Premier Classic

It’s almost unbelievable that when the name Seiko is mentioned by some of the modern kids today (and many adults I might add), there is almost a dismissive shrug of the shoulders – as if the Seiko brand was just another Japanese run of the mill quartz watch maker, when to do so couldn’t be more wrong.
They’ve certainly been around a long time and I remember back in the early 1970’s when on the Far East, these were the thing to have. That amazing quartz concept for example and then later the incredible LCD watch and I’ve still got my AGS Auto Generating Quartz of 1988/9 – and today – well they’re as inventive as ever.

Seiko - modern classic retro Kinetic! — Seiko – modern classic retro Kinetic!

But often as not we only see a fraction of the models they produce, so many are country specific, but without doubt there are many wonderful models out there. This is one such model that I’m not too familiar with – the SRX007P1 5D88 a perpetual Kinetic Direct Drive Moon Phase. A little retro perhaps but with a very cleverly designed presentation area allows the wearer to (like mechanical watches of the past) as an added feature, to wind and add power and see the reserve. And within another unique sub-dial @6 it also shows the Day and 24hr time very clearly. The Date is shown more conventionally on a sub-dial @3.

Also the dial has conventional analogue Hour and Minute hands plus a center seconds hand, plus of course the wonderful Moon Phase @12.

The Kinetic Direct drive of course means this model is powered by the movement of your wrist, so about as Automatic as you can get. So no batteries to think about. It has a 1 month Power Reserve (and that hand wind capability too), a Sapphire Crystal, 12 jewel Quartz movement with 100m Water Resistance and a black leather strap with fold over push button clasp, it’s pretty much got it all and so much more than the “standard” common quartz watch.

So the best of all worlds as they say – Automatic, no battery worries, tells you virtually everything you need to know in one view – Time, Day, Date, 24hr indication (am & pm) the Moon Phase and the Power remaining – certainly NOT a brand to take for granted.

To illustrate this very point – take a look at their achievements web site HERE – it’s impressive to say the least.

Old style Classic

There’s always something comforting about many of the watch models from the German manufacturer, Junkers.

A classic Junkers G38 6944-4 Quartz Date date.

Something classic and almost old worldly that just seems to say, this is a decent old fashioned piece of quality that’s still available today – and at reasonable cost. Not that these models are old fashioned at all, but they do give an air of respectability that’s often lacking with modern timepieces.

This Junkers model G38 6944-4 quartz Date & Date watch is one such watch.

It has an excellent and reliable Swiss Ronda Cal. 517 movement within a nice sized 42mm diameter round stainless case, which very commendably is only 10mm high, so a neat and elegant watch indeed. Good luminous markers and numerals on a clean uncluttered dial with a Day and Date aperture @3, plus broad luminous infilled hour and minute hands edged in black for clarity and a black center seconds hand.

A hardened mineral crystal, 100m Water Resistance and a classic high quality leather strap, there’s plenty to like about this particular model.

Nothing fancy, but it does show the time, Day and Date clearly and eloquently, day or night and does it well – AND it does it all at a very reasonable price of around €179 Euros.

What else can you say? (I’ve probably talked myself into getting one now . . . .!)

Special Diver Aegir

I love it when a watch is born out of a need by someone in the business – and this is such a one. The Aegir CD-2 Diver Watch.

The specifications are as follows –

A German manufactured 316 stainless steel case, brushed finish with a Helium relief value and well protected (shrouded) 7mm screw down crown. The movement is a mechanical automatic Soprod A10 Swiss caliber with 25 jewels. The dial has applied hour markers, filled with Superluminova BGW-9C1 and the dimensions are 42mm diameter, 50.5mm lug to lug and 14mm height. The crystal is sapphire, domed and anti-scratch with inside anti-reflect coating. Strap width is 24mm, the bezel is unidirectional 60 clock with engraved minute markings in black and the Water Resistance is 701 metres.

What else can I say – except to quote directly from Aegir’s web site –

“Ægir Watches CD-1 concept was born in the mid 90′s on a quay in Fort William Scotland, on a rainy summer’s day, but at the time I never realized it. It stayed in the back of my mind, and it was not until early 2007, that I decided on the design while waiting in the dive bell for the divers to return. And refined the idea over subsequent dives and many long hours of decompression before eventually handing it over to a designer.”

Wrist GPS – a step too far?

I had hoped this year to have got myself a GPS enabled watch, but alas not to be as I honestly think the manufacturer’s still haven’t come up with what I would call my ideal product. The models I’ve been checking out are from Casio, Suunto, and Garmin, etc. However most appear to have an almost “unhealthy” obsession with “running” or “geocaching”as the main purpose for most of these models and at my age about as useful as watching paint dry.

What I would like simply? is a piece of technology that can pinpoint my position, wherever I am, especially in unfamiliar territory, that can show me firstly, where I am with a GPS fix and show me how to get back to my starting position using track back as they call it.

More of a survival thing I suppose. And before everyone screams out these are already around and cheap – I don’t need something that simply points in the direction of where I started – straight line travel seems to me to be ultra dangerous – cliff, river, who knows what’s in your path. So a breadcrumb trail is what’s needed, to take you precisely back on the original track.

The more I see these wrist? GPS watches, the less I like them. Many of the tests in the field as shown on youtube, suggest they are less than accurate. One recently showed an altitude test on the Suunto Ambit, which showed the height as completely at odds (hundreds of feet out) with his Garmin GPSMap 62s hand held unit, which in turn was just 1 meter off the actual height (seriously good!) which was a known height. So Altitude accuracy doesn’t seem inspiring.

The Digital Compass function looks as if it’s improving, but not helped by climbing and mountaineering and hill walking pundits stating that, “one wouldn’t rely on such an instrument, as accuracy is not their strongest point”, doesn’t fill me with confidence. And I can understand that, as a compass bearing without a map is not the best way forward and none of the wrist GPS watches have such a thing (OK you could also carry a map and an old style compass, but isn’t this missing the point?).

Also the only serious contenders such as Garmin Fenix and the Suunto Ambit are really too big – I mean their thickness is really gross at around 18mm = that’s nearly 3/4″, so as we’re talking about wrist worn items, I’d prefer that on my belt! Now I’m not knocking the wonderful technical achievements that undoubtedly have gone in to these units, but for me they’re simply not there yet.

Garmin GPSMAP 62st hand held GPS (good as it gets?) — Garmin GPSMAP 62st hand held GPS color maps!

Another issue is the often poor clarity of some of the screens I see on these GPS watches. Surely that’s something that’s definitely fixable and a great point about Casio – they make great displays, so come on Casio – let’s get a GPS model to beat Garmin and Suunto! It should be remembered that stuff that might just be life or death data, must be easy to read – very easy!

In conclusion therefore Garmin and Suunto have too many issues that I don’t like and Casio don’t yet even have a GPS enabled full navigational model, using GPS only as an aid to area/time accuracy, so they are also out.

So for now and I suspect some time to come I’ll have to manage with “hand held” navigational units, such as the very well specified Garmin GPSMAP62st, which is about as good as it gets for me.
Forgetting about the wrist convenience factor I accept that this amount of data, plus map etc. just can’t be done on the wrist (even in short hand so to speak). Also the digital compass takes on a new meaning when integrated into a decent map (no trying to line up two different technologies in the rain and probably a wind).

So in conclusion it’s pretty evident that at the moment, the combination of information and visual data, which I have to think is essential, is simply beyond the reach of any wrist sized unit and perhaps, dare I say, a step too far!

Fashion & Design 1

Always a fascination, this Fashion and Design business especially when you consider that without either one, not only would the watch world be a dull place, but so would much of the rest of the planet. I put the two disciplines together intentionally here, as one without the other often doesn’t work and regarding watch models I think that’s certainly true.

The design concept is important here – some new designers go out of their way to produce a “new” way of reading time itself, though in my experience this rarely works. The results invariably clash with what I call the basic “law of the watch”, which is – you have to be able to read the darned thing – at a glance!
So I’m not going to feature these (in another Post perhaps), but concentrate on those Designers and Brands that often use the most basic digital or clock displays, but add around them a design or fashion statement of their own. The price point can’t be too high, as the technical aspect of the watch is quite low, though that said, they can command a “designer” premium, which like reputation can often see surprising prices.

Projects watch (Fredi Brodman) - Folly — Projects watch (Fredi Brodmann) – Folly

The models I’ve featured here are in what I consider the low tech, high design category and I like each of them. They also meet my simple criteria of clarity, pleasing form, sensible cost and versatility too, perhaps of color or style.

Take the Digital Grande from Normal Timepieces. Designer Ross McBride has produced a rather elegant plain round watch with a simple stainless almost seamless case incorporating a simple digital one line display. The difference here from say Bosch who produce a similar minimalist piece, is that the display black ground is indistinguishable from the black dial background, which shows the reverse digits perfectly. The glass is also quite non-reflective, so clarity is guaranteed. It’s also a good size at 38mm diameter so fits all as it were and is fitted with a black plain leather strap. The price in the UK is around £125

The second model is this time is using the conventional clock with hands style, but reminiscent of the Art-Deco age with it’s choice of hands, number fonts and colors. The Project watch designed by Fredi Brodmann. The Folly.

Here the designer has incorporated touches that appeal to his love of art-deco and aviation – the dial set up is reminiscent architecturally of old clocks and that red second hand with it’s large overlap is matched almost suddenly by the red button which when operated lights up the dial center so it can be seen in the dark. I particularly like the inner chapter and white dial space that reminds me very much of the old clock era. I also like the fact that the stainless watch case measures just 36mm diameter and is only 7.35mm thick, so is much neater then it’s image. A suede leather band is fitted and the watch has a Water Resistance of 3 ATM. The price is £115 here in the UK.

The third model is a more mainstream brand – the Nixon Atom – a model that’s been around for a while, but has a certain design flair that incorporates a fairly basic digital movement with a very modern yet stylish case and strap combination. This model comes in many different guises, colors, materials and prices, so much so that it can match most occasions. From high quality leather double straps to steel bracelets and so on.

Here we see two versions which show the versatility of the model range quite clearly.

Also with a 50m Water Resistance, 9mm thin case and 37mm or 39mm case width (it seem to vary according to some sellers), and around 45mm lug to lug it should fit small wrists. The wide band is 32mm band and features a double pin buckle, which makes sense owing to the width. I understand there is also a back light for the display.

Being mainstream it also can be available for around £50 in the UK, though I note there are various prices being offered, some of which are considerably higher.

So just a taste of fashion and design and how these two disciplines don’t have to mean silly almost unreadable models or over the top prices.

I hope to feature more in future Posts.

Playtime – P01TIME Watch

Always nice to see models appearing that are NOT from the big 4 or mainstream digital manufacturers, that maybe are fashion statements or watches to compliment their particular area of interest.

The P01TIME is one such brand, launched by Japanese snowboarding company Playdesign. This model is from their 3rd collection and called Super Digital which has a IP coated 46mm diameter stainless steel case, mineral crystal, Water Resistance of 3ATM and nylon strap and available in a range of color combinations.

No details I’m afraid, as I just spotted it and haven’t managed to access any real technical information on these, but they obviously appear to have the Time, Day, Date and possibly a Chronograph and or timer. Not so obviously they could have either a 2nd time zone or even a World Time feature as they are showing TKO in pace of the Day on the images shown here.

I particularly like the large digital Time display, which appears on first looks to have great clarity and I also just like the look of the watch – sort of military sporty and pretty rugged too. My color of choice is actually the plain version as shown on the larger image.

I also like the fact that many of these “fashion” or accessory models today are of much better quality than hitherto and not just “throwaway” items, but often serious timepieces in their own right.

However as to the P01TIME (3rd Collection) I somehow doubt we’ll ever see it here in the UK, though it appears well stocked by domestic Dealers in Japan. So if of interest, maybe a trip to Japan or a virtual Internet Dealer such as http://www.branc-store.com/?pid=64908558 is the only answer. Priced at 12,96YEN this is the equivalent of around £76 UK plus any mail/customs charges and IF they deliver to the UK.

However if you can get one – you could well have a model on your wrist that your friends won’t have! Is that cool or what!

Any time, anywhere . . .

This seems to be the big thing for 2014, certainly from the big 3 makers, Seiko, Citizen and Casio who have invested heavily in this GPS accurate world time idea. From older ideas back in 2011, they are now really starting to make models that are no longer experimental/gimmicky, but real contenders for “the watch” or certainly the most accurate watch for anytime, anyone and anywhere.

My preference is for the Citizen as it’s the most uncluttered dial, the easiest to see and without doubt the best clarity of them all. It’s also light titanium cased and banded and for a model of this complication, very thin at 12.4mm depth. The diameter isn’t too bad either at 45.4mm, though folks with an average wrist size of 165mm might find it on the limits from lug to lug, but probably manageable.

It also scores over the competition as it has a remarkable signal pick up time of just 3 seconds and will indicate the correct time in any of the 40 times zones on the planet. It’s also very accurate with the new F100 calibre at +/- 5 seconds/month without a signal. Being Eco-Drive of course you can forget any battery issues and the light/power conversion is better than ever and the power reserve is pretty awesome at 7 years in the dark in a drawer!

The final plus for me – it’s at a price point that’s not totally unreachable at around £1300 UK or less and it’s expected sometime this summer.