Case study

Over the years I’ve been collecting watches, how I display and store them has always been a sort of mix and match conglomeration of mismatching boxes, cabinets and goodness knows what else. Some are lovely wooden glass topped boxes for 12 or more, others are 2 tier leatherette boxes with acrylic tops, some small wooden cabinets with drawers and no display, except the top drawer and so on.

Neat storage cases for watch collection. Great space savers and can easily be moved around.

In short my stuff is all over the place and getting more disorganized every day – a bit like my life at the moment! Perhaps it’s a reflection of my state of mind and a danger sign that I need to cool it, sort things out and get organized in every way. I would ask my Doctor for his advice, but being a watch collector himself and I’ve been in his house – well it’s like the pot calling the kettle black! (and for those of you puzzling over that old expression – it means – The notion of a criticism a person is making of another could equally well apply to themselves or vice versa).

So what to do?

Well I’ve decided on a strategy – wow, this is new! I have decided to replace all my boxes, cabinets, wood, leatherette, cardboard, drawers and assorted enclosures, with cases. Yes cases and with handles – no grabbing boxes by the sides and hugging them to your chest whilst moving them around, but neat sized aluminum cases with handles and clear display tops. I opted for one standard size – that’s one level of 12 watches capacity with cushions in compartments.

Bookcase style storage is a useful alternative.

I bought one to check it out and satisfied I bought a pile of them. Whilst waiting for them to arrive gave me time to assess and sort out my collection, see what I’ve actually got, decide if to keep any particular model or to move it on, tidy things up, segregate styles or types and so on. In other words take some control of my watches and by association – my life!

These are the cases I’ve decided on. Neat, clean and compact, with handles and locks and easily carried, clear topped for both display and any Solar models and so on. Even the look of them calms me down – this is like therapy! Wow I’m feeling calmer already and I might even go on a diet – boy this is good!
I’ve got myself some small stick-on silicon buffer feet which attach to the bottom corner of each case, so I can stack them without them falling off or scratching each other.
I also have foam cut outs for the interior and place these on top of the watches if moving them around (we’ve got handles remember) which prevents the watches banging against the clear top.

Most of my watch collection are normal sized and the cases compartments for the bulk of them are just fine. In fact most of my larger diameter watches are still OK and only two or three out of the hundreds that require more space, so I simply leave a space. However if I was besotted with collecting the modern and larger Casio G-Shocks (which I’m not) then I’d probably think again and ensure storage wider individual compartments.

And as to the old storage ideas, well some are really nice pieces of furniture and they’ll still be there for those special display occasions, when a few of my collection buddies are over.

Note – I do have a colleague in London who also uses cases, though his are larger than mine. He stacks them vertically like books in a library (as my little image above) and he has over 60 of them! However as his cases are “leather”, they almost look like rare limited edition books and yes they are in his library (he has one of those) – well where else is he going to keep his collection of at the last count some 6 x Pateks, numerous Vacherons and IWC’s and whatever else he’s got these days.

Ah well I can only aspire . . . . (lovely word – aspire . . . .) 😉

UPDATE –
Decided now to stack my cases as I don’t need to use the clear tops for display, unless I need to, though I have the top one at the moment stocked with my Solar models. In the end a very neat solution to my storage problem and well pleased.
The image shows a section of my watch collection – well you didn’t think that was it did you? Silly boy!

Vertical stacking - I think I prefer as it takes up little space. — Vertical stacking – I think I prefer as it takes up little space.

Old Divers never die . . .

There’s something about old digital watches I just love. Part of it is the fact that so many of these models were in that transitional phase, where manufacturers were experimenting with what was really fast moving new technology. Digital modules that seemed and promised to do almost anything often produced sometimes great and sometimes odd looking models as a result.

The major Brands, Casio, Seiko and Citizen invested heavily in this new technology and of course led the way, but there were those guys on their coat-tails, using those same modules, but with their own ideas of how to utilize them. And so it was an amazing time, a free-for-all and resulting in some almost one off models that retro nuts treasure today.

1980's Old digital Diver - 300 meters, been around and still here — 1980’s Old digital Diver – 300 meters, been around and still here

Take this well used 300m Diver, Alarm and Chronograph model with the old style dial guard. It has features and functions similar to both Casio and Seiko modules at the time, but clothed in different garb and sporting a 10 year Lithium battery no less and we’re talking here of perhaps the mid 1980’s?

Obviously targeted at Snorkeling enthusiasts and/or divers according to the symbol above the display, this particular non-mainstream model looks such a one off today. It’s a bit like the very old days when pocket watches transitioned to wrist and civilian models aspired to military (with dial guards too). This model had an odd rubber strap which didn’t fit too well, being too small at the lug ends, soI swapped it out for a deployment silicon one after a bit of cutting. And it looks OK.

I have to be impressed with the 300 meter claim and if correct, is a testament to the case and back construction, though once I get the back off, I should know considerably more. But I’ll delay doing that as sometimes with these old digitals, start meddling and sometimes trouble comes along, so perhaps I’ll wait until the battery needs replacing. The display however is remarkably bright and with good contrast, so it might be a while before the battery does give up the ghost. Incidentally the case screw back is in Stainless Steel, marked 300 Metre and has a snorkeling man symbol, plus the Brand name Amertime.

300 meter Diver, well used and still good to go.

I love the look of this one, as the steel case to dial ratio is well balanced and proportioned and that in your face guard doesn’t obstruct the view of the dial as it’s center window is actually framing the digital display perfectly.

Part of the fun with these obscure models is the investigation of their origins. This module for example is has an odd display set with three levels of data. First a data line the top level, a Date & Day line next, then the main Time line below. However the Day text is small but unusually it’s also positional. In other words as the Days of the week progress, the Day changes and basically moves along the display, the Days obviously hidden on that text line and highlighted as required. I have to confess I’ve not seen this before. More commonly in Week progression the Days are permanently marked on the case or glass and a short digital dash marker would highlight under the appropriate Day.

Functions and display appear in some ways similar to the Seiko 4 button A914-5010 Module, which was around in the mid 1980’s, which would fit with the date estimate for this model. I wouldn’t be surprised if it was a Seiko module derivative, as more often than not it’s Seiko modules that seem to survive, as opposed to other brands.

However I’m unable to find out much about Amertime. The name suggests Amertime (watches and jewelery) which seems to be a resurrected Company name (2000), though as it was reborn perhaps 15 to 20 years after this model appeared, probably of little relevance.

Anyone who has any information regarding the Brand is welcome to drop me an email or comment, should you wish to share. I’d appreciate it . . . .

International Watch “Detective”

Interesting 1941/2 IWC with it’s elegant Calibre 83, 6 bridge-design movement, 14k gold cased Gents watch. After some investigation it is in a 14kt Gold case, possibly supplied to or produced in Hungary during the war as it shows the Hungarian Assay mark for 14kt Gold (580/1000) – this is a stamped left facing Wolf’s head + the number 4. This stamp is repeated on the right hand top lug exterior.

The watch is in excellent condition both due to it’s age and considering the time it may have been produced as WW11 raged across Europe. My detective work will not be fully complete until I can determine the Case Maker/Sponsor mark but it’s certainly intriguing.
The IWC Cal 83 was produced between 1939 and the early 1940’s and regarded as a transitional movement between the pocket watch and the wrist watch. I also note that this case style has straight sides and straight thin lugs and appears to have precedent as it’s reminiscent of No 58 and some others in IWC’s 1941/2 Blue Catalog. Within this catalogue it is obvious when comparing the available model there were a few “mix & match” combinations of dial layouts and case designs over this period. This watch case could also be an IWC design imported into Hungary for separate metal assessment and subsequent matching to the movement. However this is conjecture and more detective work may be needed.

Note the Hallmarked 14k gold symbol on the top lug and the large “onion” crown. Gold hands and seconds sub-dial on what may be a very well preserved original dial – as there are a few small spots on the dial background but only noticeable under magnification. The case diameter is almost 33 mm without the Crown, so larger than many at the time and I’m very pleased that it wears “larger” and looks good on my average wrist.

The strap is a high quality water resistant Hirsch leather 18mm to fixed wire fittings between lugs which were common at the time. No spring bars here and replacements straps must be open ended types to fit. Note the nicely decorated case back interior which has case number, case makers mark, service marks and the 14k gold mark of Hungary. The movement looks in great condition and shows virtually no signs of wear which is always a bonus. Regarding the strap I personally feel the color doesn’t show the watch to best advantage so I’m considering changing this for a black lizard – see last image.

Note – In keeping with the servicing tradition of watchmakers throughout the world, there are marks on the inside of the case which would appear to indicate it was serviced in December 1962 and again in November 1976. (there may be an earlier one but it’s too indistinct to read). Considering manufacturers of mechanical watches tend to recommend servicing every 3 years I suppose it’s not too bad!

1941/2 International Watch Company Cal.83 to 14kt Case — 1941/2 International Watch Company Cal.83 in 14kt Case and lizard strap.

Originals (1)

This Post is the first of a series where I introduce Brands that are somewhat off mainstream, which might and often do show real flair and usually an individualism that can be sadly lacking in many of the better known brands. It might be that they’re relatively new or just one that appeals to a select few and fly just under the radar. Whatever the reason they are often on the short list by those looking for that elusive style or look that the mainstream can’t seem to provide.

One such maker is MARCH LA.B who produce the AM2. They are a France-made luxury timepiece brand with headquarters in Los Angeles, California and Biarritz, France and brainchild of ALAIN MARHIC since 2008 and the AM2 model I feature here is a model I that typifies the individual look.

March AM2 in burgandy Automatic. The individuals watch. — March AM2 in burgundy Automatic. The individuals watch.

And it is different, it’s what I personally call “heavy” retro and this model actually inspired apparently by those seventies Ford Mustangs with their plush seating interiors, aggressive, charismatic and above all – individual.

Certainly a different kind of presentation with the heavy polished 316L Stainless Steel case with that large heavily textured and logo’d crown bulging out from the case @4. It certainly can’t be missed, that’s for sure. First looks shows off the plush deep maroon/burgundy finish dial and domed anti-reflective Sapphire crystal.
The case is 38 mm square and the watch is powered by a Swiss ETA 2892-A automatic movement with self -winding ball bearing rotor system, Date corrector, Stop seconds device and ETACHRON regulator system. It’s a pretty well specified model of that there is no doubt and at 28,800 vibrations/hr and 21 jewels should provide decent decent accuracy.

Customized ETA2892-A Swiss Automatic seen through amazing green crystal viewing post. — Customized ETA2892-A Swiss Automatic seen through that amazing green Sapphire crystal viewing post.

The Hour and Minute hands are treated with luminous material, a sweep seconds hand, silver markers plus a customized Date set @3 against the deep maroon/burgundy color dial background are quite striking.
The watch back is secured by 4 screws and the viewing window in amazing green is a Sapphire crystal, showing the customized movement inside. Note the Crown is screw down and this model has a Water Resistance of 10 ATM /100 M.

The watch has a really plush sculpted (those Mustang seats!) perforated black “buffle” band with maroon/burgundy highlights and Alcantara lining and is pretty special in it’s own right.

So a true individualist model, the AM2 and I do like it, as it’s not only something different, but it’s both a quality piece and has an in your face retro style I find refreshing. And bear in mind I’m not American, so inspirational items from the USA don’t usually influence me one way or another, but with the AM2 it’s got something I can identify with, and that’s the Mustang – I mean it’s a Classic and I’ve seen the pictures and indeed the movie . . . etc. and I can see the connection very clearly.

Price wise this is not unrealistic at around £750 perhaps and I’m pretty sure your next door neighbor or the guys at the Golf Club will not have one of these! You might have to see about a change of vehicle of course and then price might become an issue!

And of course you guessed it – it’s now on my list! and I’m trying so hard to cut back . . . 😉 and failing miserably!

Traveling 2015

A friend asked me on Friday (I’m asked this every year) seeing I’d just returned from Europe, what was my recommendation as a traveling watch. One that you’d take with you on a trip to another country and why. In the event not a hard question for me to answer.

My first word of advice is to leave the World Time Patek at home. Cheaper is good and you don’t want a watch that’s too complicated – you don’t want to refer to instructions all the time.

Do you want/need extra functions, Chrono, Stopwatch or Alarm? What about changing times? because let’s be honest, a plain Day /Date analog watch is difficult to beat in practice, as you simply pull out the Crown, move the hands – job done. If it’s digital, can you remember how to set it and if it has a Word Time function, is that easy to remember and set? If it is – great, but if not, leave it at home.
Crossing rivers? beach combing or swimming? – remember if you’re on your own taking the watch OFF at poolside, could be an easy way to lose it. So good Water Resistance is a must.

So for me – Ease of use, readability in the dark and good Water Resistance (swimming, bathing, showers, heavy rains, whatever).

Best travel watch – does everything required – easily and well

First choice is the Citizen Eco-Drive A-T CB0020-09E, which is quartz analog, with Date window, a built in World Time Perpetual Calendar module and step motor hands hidden away inside the watch workings. I love this watch as it’s understated and unobtrusive, yet packs serious functionality. For time changing it’s the best there is – To change to a Destination Time Zone, simply pull out the Crown, turn to another City Time Zone. The seconds hand instantly indicates that City on the dial index, push in the Crown and the analogue hands move around to the new time. It could not be easier.
It’s also Water Resistant to 200m, has great luminous qualities, very accurate as its Radio Controlled and being Eco-Drive you can forget about batteries.

This has to be my favorite and 1st choice for travel.

My second choice is my “active” travel, third world, other places in the world watch. In this case I always take the Timex Expedition T49976.

Best "active" travel watch - also best Military model — Best “active” travel watch – also for me it’s the best “Military” model

This is a Digital only model with Shock protection, Water Resistant to 100m. It has the best night/dark viewing of any digital watch I know (see image), shows at a glance the Day, Date, Month, Hour, Minute, Second and AM/PM indication. It has added functions such as Alarms (5), Stopwatch and Timer. It’s also not too big.
And for travel destination times – it has Dual Time or one extra Time Zone which you can set either when on the way or pre-set before you go. And it’s super simple to set. Press and hold the Set button (upper left – says Set on it) the Time flashes, press the opposite button and it gives you the option to set the dual time. Follow the on screen stuff and before you know it, it’s done. This is one of the few models I know that actually shows what to do within the digital screen. No instruction book required!

The watch is also as tough as old boots and the battery life is around 5 years – so no worries. And by the way you can have almost any strap you like on this watch, from NATO, to Textile, to Leather, to Velcro fast wrap – take your pick.
The other important benefit, is the fact it only cost me around £40 new and I’ve got two, so depending where I’m going I sometimes take them both.

Probably the best all round practical travel watch I know.

However if you can’t be bothered with all this travel functionality stuff – I find that Divers models are a great travel watch, especially analog. They’re inherently tough, have great Water Resistance and being heavily luminous are very easy to read day or night. Rush job overseas? – chuck on my favorite Diver and off to the airport and for time changes, just move the hands . . . no brainer – it’s that easy. (I take my Apecks 200m).

But for bespoke “travel” models I pick out the Citizen and Timex above, as I’ve traveled with both of them for many years and being an inveterate traveler, from jungles to deserts, Arctic to Antarctic, hot to cold, and with the odd war zone chucked in, they certainly work for me and have never let me down.