The Ambassador – from Android

A surprisingly excellent model from those folks at Android USA – the Ambassador 11 Swiss complication watch (Triple Date Calendar model)

AndroidAmb01 — Ambassador 11 Swiss moonphase – Triple Date Calendar model

Not in the “way out” style I associate Android with at all, this is a rather elegant polished stainless steel cased Ambassador model, which features as it’s power source the excellent Swiss Ronda 5 jewel 706.B. This model has displays for – month, date, day, moon phase, in addition to the hour, minute and center seconds hands. This particular dial also shows an index for week numbers of the year, so will appeal to businessmen as a very smart and useful dress watch.
The dial is silver/white and the hands a very good contrasting blue steel, including the seconds hand, so despite all the complications it is an easy watch to read. The month indicator has a curve pointer at the end which is colored yellow.

Having such complications it is important as to when you change them you make sure that you manage this task at the correct time so as not to damage the mechanics of the movement. Often the watch instructions are not as detailed as the movement instructions and I prefer to use the latter when it comes to settings.

Whilst the instructions that come with the Android are OK, a slightly more detailed set is available from Ronda on their own very good web site.
For example to change any calendar functions it should not really be done between 11.30pm and 05.30am as automatic changes are usually in progress at these times. The initial setting of the moon phase also requires a bit of concentration and as with my other moon phase models – my advice is – Don’t lose the instructions! or better still download a copy of the Ronda ones and keep it on your computer.

Basically moon phase functions are initially set (and done only once) by selecting the day of the last full moon, then set the date pusher to that date. Then using the crown set your current situation and that’s it done. For other settings the watch has some quick change pushers for the week and the date. The pusher @2 moves the Month and Week Number and the lower pusher @5 changes the date.

The hour, minute, day and date hands and markers are infilled with luminous material and look pretty good in low light. Of course as with many of these, they will tend to fade after an hour or so, but they’re reasonable. In daylight and for basic clarity this model excels as the dial layout is really well thought out and exceptionally clear to read. It is certainly in my opinion a very smart looking model without being flashy – in fact a true “dress” watch that seems to fit it’s purpose very well.

At 42mm diameter and 12mm height this is a nice modern watch size (ex crown). In fact to find such a nice watch at this size in the Android stable is quite a find, as all too often many models in their range tend (for gents) to be over-sized for me.

Now with such a busy dial face you could be forgiven if thinking that it might be cluttered and in fact nothing could be further from reality. Everything is well spaced and lettered cleverly to be highly visible. Note that the hour numerals are applied blue painted and stand out from the other black printed texts – quite a subtle arrangement. I also note that the Android logo is neatly managed in a non bold typeface which says all it needs to say but is both neat and unobtrusive.

The case is a solid chunk of highly polished stainless steel and Water Resistant to 100m which is nice to see in a dress watch of this type. The crystal is a slightly domed convex hardened mineral glass. The complication pushers are on the right side of the case either side of the crown and virtually hidden. The 22mm wide strap is good quality, if rather stiff, Croco embossed Italian leather fitted to quick release lug pins and with a matching polished steel Android logo buckle I have to say seems to compliment the watch very well. However as with a few of my watches I changed the strap for a Silicon deployment style and it looks really good fitted.

Overall I’m very pleased with this addition to my Android collection (I knew the first one wouldn’t be the last!) and I can see me wearing this quite often as one of my favorite dress watches.

Any negatives? Well. . . no actually. . . it is what it is – a very nice watch indeed. I love it!

Update January 2013 –

Well this model has lived up to my expectations big time. It has not yet had to adjust or correct the time which shows the quality of the Ronda movement. No issues at all as this watch has functioned perfectly since I bought it. I’ve since been looking for another Triple Date Calendar watch and found nothing in this price bracket that even approaches at it terms of looks or quality. It’s just a pity it’s not available now as I think Android had themselves a real winner here and maybe didn’t realize it. Maybe I should tell them!

Movado class

A new addition to my collection is this very tidy two tone (pre-owned) Movado. Slightly smaller than a Patek Philippe Calatrava this is a neat gents or unisex size, but it’s perfect for my 165mm wrist and as I like it so much – I’m afraid my wife will miss out on this one! Not much data on it but dated perhaps to around 2000 though possibly earlier and model name unknown, but is signed MOVADO logo on the face and a sub reference to the ESQ range on the back. Unusually it has a 14kt Gold filled rotating bezel (not quite sure why) atop a stainless steel polished, slim case, but this watch has real presence.

It had a coloured leather strap when I bought it, but I decided to fit in it’s place this nice Hadley 12kt gold filled expandable bracelet with contrasting black enamel panels which cried out to meet up with this gem of a watch. And they do seem to get on very well together.

I’ve always admired Movado watches and this is my first one and OK it’s quartz and not mechanical, but I really don’t mind, as it’s the style of this one that so attracted me. Well defined blue steel hands against an unusual and delicate eggshell blue face with Roman numerals at 12. 3, 6 and 9, then gold applied chapter markers leading outwards to very neat and individual minute index block numerals (5 minute intervals + single minute markers in black). I like too the red 60, 15, 30 and 45 marks – it’s really a beautifully set out dial with the MOVADO logo @ centre 12 and a discrete “Swiss Made” at the foot. A contrasting white coloured seconds sub-dial @6 with a gold coloured hand completes the dial detail.

Movado02 — Stylish Movado with Hadley bracelet

Topped off with a 14kt gold filled unidirectional milled bezel marked in 12 graduations and a @12 centre datum gives the watch a nice solidity and contrasting two tone colour scheme against the rest of the very finely made stainless steel casing. The flat sapphire crystal is virtually reflection free, though I’m not aware of an anti-reflect coating.

That solid look makes it appear in the images like a much larger watch – in fact the dimensions are neat at 32/36mm diameter and a slim 7mm depth.

The movement is a high end Swiss quartz 13 jewel with a 1.55v lithium battery as the power source and good for 3 years at least. Stainless steel back with the ESQ logo, Water Resistant and model/serial numbers completes the details of this watch.

I did have another strap – high quality camel leather one in brown which would be an alterative (much better than the one I bought it with) which would match , but I have to confess I love the Hadley bracelet on it and whilst I’m not normally a fan of expandable ones, this one looks great and is really comfortable – once past the hairs issue ‘getting’ it on, so it might just stay as it is.

In fact I am absolutely delighted with this watch and I’m sure it will be one of the “dress” watches in my collection that I’ll never tire of wearing – and that’s surely a very good recommendation for any watch.

I also haven’t found out too much about this model at all. What model is it? What year of production and what price would it have retailed for?

As usual, anyone out there who has definite model information – I would be very grateful to hear from you. . . .

Update –The ESQ or Esquire range was launched as a subsidiary by Movado in 1995, but unable to find much reference to the early model names.

“Elixir” – time from Android

You may have noticed that some recent posts have featured the ” modern” watch as opposed to the Classics or Vintage variety. And that’s simply because looking over my collection the other day I thought it needed livening up.

This one is from Android and the model is “Elixir” – its got both style and color . . . .

A model with a little style or color or just that “something” to lift it from the mundane. So a new watch collection box has been born and already is filling up. I call it my “Modern” box or perhaps “Designer watches with function”, or maybe just “unusual watches” – whatever and anyway it’s fun seeing just what’s around.

This Android watch is really well constructed and very solid (134gms on my wrist) with a brushed satin finish 40mm diameter stainless steel case with a slightly recessed knurled crown with the Brand logo. Data on the stainless steel base states 100m Water Resistance and the model No AD256.

AndroidElixir03 — Clear blue & big date too

This is a “big date” watch which is located @12 on the amazingly deep blue face. The date has black numbers against a white background and is easy to read. Broad flat silver edged hour and minute hands have an eggshell colored luminous infill and the bright yellow center seconds hand show up in excellent contrast. The face is colored an opalescent deep blue and has an outer border colored to match the dial and marked with white numbers at two hour intervals, with dot markers in between. Note the outer border and numerals are marked just under or actually on the crystal, not the dial face – not a problem as long as the crystal stays intact – but lose the crystal and you lose the numerals, though in this case it seems one strong crystal!
The glass in question is slightly domed and hardened mineral crystal, the watch is powered by a Japanese Quartz movement and the watch is matched to a stainless steel solid, very solid link satin finished button deployment bracelet. As usual the bracelet is adjusted by removing links though I note the absence of a micro-adjustment on this one, which whilst not essential I’ve always found useful.

The brand Android was founded (according to their USA web site) in 1991 by Wing Liang and whilst I am unfamiliar with the name I am impressed by the individuality, colors and the wide range available in some of the Android collections. I also think it fair to say that once you’ve seen an Android watch it’s brand style has a certain look and is easily recognizable – it has a definite personality and one that I felt I should explore. However that said, some work well and others less so – a personal choice obviously.

With such a range variety I took a little time before deciding but managed to pick one up for a very, very good price – perhaps from last year’s range – anyway I thought would dip my toe into the world of Android at a modest outlay just to test the waters as it were.

That these are quite futuristic looking timepieces there is absolutely no doubt and they seem to manage a combination of traditional values of watch making with modern day living.

Wing Liang is quoted as saying, ‘When I design a watch I am inspired by everything around me, from a sci-fi movie to music, from a car to a toaster”. “The most difficult task is to create a simplistic design that differs from other brands, I believe that less can be more”.

I tend to take these attributed but marketing influenced quotes with a pinch of salt, but that last bit does say it for me. The watches don’t just imply simplicity but are surprisingly logical in a way that’s clean and modern and without being bland – the watches have a freshness of character that I think brings something that’s both exciting and a little bit different – and just that bit out of the mainstream to be really interesting.

On this showing so far it probably won’t be my last Android – so it looks as if I’ll have to get a bigger “modern” box after all. . . .and another point is that I actually “like” wearing it – and that says it all for me. . .

Update – April 2013

Well as with all of my modern collection, I review how they have worn (on the wrist) every year. I had toyed with the idea of selling this one on as I had not worn it too often. However Last week I took it out for a spin and have to admit – I love it! It is SUCH a nice watch to wear and it looks really stunning – vindicating my initial purchase after all. So no ideas this year at any rate of moving this sweet model on . . . .In fact I’m wearing it tonight!

The “Paradox” concept

What is the Paradox concept?
Well firstly you have to understand the word – Paradox.
According to the definition – it’s something that exhibits inexplicable or contradictory aspects –

Enter the Paradox PX.3001/L1

Paradox01 — Paradox PX.3001/L1 Swiss Ronda 1062

A highly individual and stylistic Swiss Made watch which just oozes class. Styled by the vision of the founder of Paradox Watch Company, Francois Boegli, who being fascinated by the new architectural style of glass and steel rails emulating the great sheets of glass and steel buildings of the modern city today.
The Paradox Model PX.3001/L1 features the basic elements of his design – heavy sheets of glass held in place in this case with IPG steel plates which sandwich a rectangular steel case within which resides a Swiss Quartz Ronda 1062 movement. The sheer thickness of glass can be seen from the spectacular side view which gives the watch an amazing look of solidity. In the image below you can see the two sheets of glass, the case body between and the steel holding plates at either end – quite a fascinating piece.

ParadoxSide — Glass & steel architectural concept

The wide black 24mm full leather strap with it’s 2 button monogrammed deployment butterfly buckle is fitted close to the body with black screws and perfectly match the watch concept.

The dial is a neat combination of black patterns, the vertical ones at each side breaking up the dullness by clever use of any light striking the face. The hands are silver but with luminous infills which are actually very effective and the hours represented by the 12 and the 6 plus index lines applied in silver/chrome. I found the very thick plate mineral crystal to be surprisingly non reflective considering the silvering. Only the “Paradox” logo is on the dial face plus a small “Swiss Made” at the foot.

The case dimensions including the ends of the strap just as it curves away from the case is a 45mm and the width without the small crown is just 25mm and a perfect size even for small wrists. The overall depth is just 9mm and very neatly done when you consider the glass sheets on the face and the bottom each measure around 2.5mm thickness. So the movement case body is only 4mm thick – hence the Ronda Slimtech movement. The case sides are highly polished black and the base shows the inscription Paradox and Swiss Made – Patented, shining through the thick glass base plate. Minimalist and precise in it’s look – this is one very smart watch.

Note – There are a few watches around with visible screw heads as a sort of fashion thing – please note these are not. The screws on this model are very much part of the watch assembly – just make sure they are tight! They are very easy to lose.

The Ronda Slimtech 1062 movement has a battery life (theoretical) of around 6 years (No.321) and has a specified accuracy of -10/+20 secs per month which is pretty good. Water resistance is 30m and it carries a 2yr International Guarantee. Included in the purchase is a very solid polished black and heavy perspex square case that almost looks like a modern office block – wonderful!

Finally – I was lucky enough to get this superb quality watch for a great price – Now that’s what I call another “Paradox”.

Note – In fact I lost two of the screws on this very watch – I contacted the manufacturer Montres Boegli SA in Geneve directly by email and they sent me replacements by post at no charge – I cannot praise them enough – this is service of the highest standard.

Bocca addendum

In my post of February 2nd – HERE – I mentioned that I preferred deployment silicon rubber straps and I promised to source one to fit in the Boccia place of the supplied buckle version. Well this is it –

BoccaSilicon — Alternative deployment silicon from Thai Craft

Great fit, very flexible and a very good fold over locking two button deployment – I think it looks well – from Thai Craft.

Quartz – todays’ bargain.

Whilst as a collector I have a preference for mechanical watches (to see a watch movement in operation I find utterly fascinating) I have to admit that as many other folks I tend to wear a Quartz digital watch for everyday use. And for good reason I suppose as apart from accuracy, they are much more resilient when it comes to physical abuse of modern living such as sports like swimming or golf etc.

But the range of cheap Quartz watches is nothing short of amazing – here are some –

Montage02 — Cheap as chips - quartz selection

Just a selection of Quartz watches that demonstrate the fabulous choice of amazingly low priced models available today in the market.

Note that in the image I have highlighted Casio who are in the forefront of this extraordinary treasure trove of affordable watches. I make no excuse for that as they and others offer such a wide variety of different styles and features and at such incredible prices.
In this montage here I’ve also included a couple from Sekonda, the British manufacturer who topped the UK sales for brand in 1998 and still up there and also there’s a Swatch watch in there who produce some wonderful “cult” design watches at affordable prices too.
Probably it’s these manufacturers we have to thank for giving and that’s almost the right word – giving us the opportunity to own, what is an often taken for granted marvel of miniature electronics. There is no doubt that the Quartz revolution has given us so much.

There are of course many more around but just scratching the surface it is evident that the days of the cheap watch are very much with us – and I don’t mean cheap as poor – very much to the contrary. These watches are tremendous value, they do what they say on the box, their reliability is amazing and the range is unreal – there must be virtually something for everyone.

For a plain tell the time watch these are around £10 – £25 and with day date window £20 – £30. For chronograph functions £15 – £40 is possible and you can find multi-functions £40 – £90. Of course the sky’s the limit but it is amazing what you can get for not a lot of money.

So often when considering a new watch we end up setting out sites on that “expensive” new watch, whether it be a “mid range” or indeed a “high end” model, we each cut our cloth to suit. However it is very evident and no more so when I seek a pre-owned vintage or high end mechanical classic watch that many folk simply don’t look after their watches at all! Slung in a drawer somewhere along with keys, pens, paper clips and goodness knows what else, they often end up with badly scratched cases (in many instances these were gold for goodness sake), scratched glass, hands knocked off and often with dampness into the dial and movements – it’s a wonder they bought a decent watch in the first place for all the care they’ve taken over them.

So this wonderful diversity of really low priced watches should be an absolute winner – if they get scratched or damaged – who cares? – at these prices simply get another one.

And one thing is absolutely certain – Quartz – is the bargain of today and there’s an awful lot of them!

Seriously Casio

One of my friends on returning from a holiday brought me little watch as a present just for fun and thought this might amuse me. On opening the box I was not only amused, but actually rather impressed.
The watch is the little Casio Poptone Chronograph model LDF-50-1EF and one of the cutest contemporary watches I’ve seen for a long time that isn’t silly design over functionality. Dimensions wise it could be called Unisex, though it’s short strap will limit it to the smaller wrist.

First off it is really neat and looks good with it’s black and chromed metal composite case with a clear digital display on the front and a stainless steel back plate. The watch sides are finished in a highly polished chrome which sets off the black surround of the digital display very nicely. On the face there are 4 front facing “quadrant” keys just below the display and these though looking quite funky being in pretty colors are also a very well designed and functional size. But did I say neat? – well no apologies here as neat it certainly is.

CasioLD50wrist — The Poptone on the wrist

In fact the whole watch may be neat but it has some serious features, such as a decent Water Resistance of 5Bar (50m), a Dual Time display, Daily Alarm + Hourly Chime if required, and a 100th/sec stopwatch – all features that are each excellent and useful, without any silly gimmickry stuff.
In normal mode it directly reads, month, day, date, hours and seconds, am/pm indicator, which alarm indicator is set – all of which are clearly seen. It has moving graphics running bottom left of the screen showing a continuous 10 second countdown, which may or may not be useful. It does however have a very good EL (Electro-Luminescence) back-light feature at the touch of the front pad entitled “light”. (note the tiny figure 3 bottom right of the display – this is the back light duration in seconds) – it has two options either 1½ or 3 secs and I much prefer 3 secs to allow enough time to read it.

The strap is a resin rubber material and is proportional to the watch, being just the right thickness and has a simple buckle fitting. The strap is actually quite short – OK for my small wrist, but for a large wrist could be a problem. However I also note it seems to fit to small but standard style spring bars, so a replacement strap may be possible. The watch is very light and at just 23mm wide and around 40mm lug to lug sits well on the wrist and barely noticeable. It has a thickness of 11mm at the middle of the watch as the front display is curved. This model version is the most unobtrusive of the range – I think there are 5 in total with alternative and somewhat brighter color combination’s.

The watch movement is accurate to around +/-20 seconds per month and is powered by a CR1216 Lithium battery and you can expect around 3 years life with sensible use of the back light feature.

This has to be winner from Casio in my opinion and at an incredible £20.00 (UK) is an absolute bargain. . . . . Seriously. . . .

Any downsides?
Well if being picky – maybe the alarm is a tad quiet for me (but I’m slightly deaf – so maybe an age thing!).

UPDATE – 15th February 2011 – I’ve worn this watch for a week now day and night – I thought as the buttons were on top they might operate by mistake. Well no worries on that score – they work only when you want them to.

UPDATE – 20th November 2012 – Watch is still a fabulous little item – keeping excellent time (as it should being quartz) – incredibly easy to wear as you forget it’s there and I’m wearing it all this week. I note it’s still available, though the colors I’ve seen are a bit garish currently and they seem to be pushing it as a ladies watch. When I bought this there was no gents/ladies classification attributed to it, though I did note above on the article, that the strap is quite short. That said however it fits me perfectly!

Boccia Chrono

Sometimes you come across a watch or in this case a complete range of watches that for some reason strikes a chord. And as I am quite a collector of Titanium watches it was of considerable interest that I chanced upon the Boccia range (pronounced Boschia).

Boccia01 — Boccia Titanium Chronograph Cal.05.11

I don’t know about you but I have found that many of these “designer” watches often use too much chrome in their dials, with numerals and hands not being the easiest to read – too much ” bling” I suppose, a fashion I personally dislike. In the Boccia range there are indeed some like that but fortunately not all.

For in amongst this range I spotted the B3777-02 Chronograph model which definitely bucks the trend of their other watches.

First off I like this one as it has that nicely sculpted dark Titanium colored case with matching chronograph buttons and a rather neat and clear dial arrangement. The numeral/markers are both large and very white applied and the hands are similarly done, which contrasts well against the dark dial face. The hour and minute hands are also well proportioned and broad which aids clarity. The chronograph sub-dials are positioned vertically between 12 and 6 and are colored in a medium gray, which is OK and doesn’t detract – a little different from the normal white or silver. A center seconds stopwatch hand in white, plus a contrasting date window @3 and an inner seconds chapter index completes the dial set up.

Boccia02 — Clear hands and numerals makes for clarity

Luminous infill hands and painted numerals, large as they are I would only class adequate in the dark.

Overall however and looks wise this watch from my perspective has a lot going for it.

The crystal is a flat mineral glass and coupled with a narrow top case profile on the wide case, the watch appears larger than it actually is – though not a small watch at 47mm diameter including the protected crown (without crown is around 43mm)and is quite clear to read even without an anti-reflect coating which I usually prefer on this watch type. The overall dial design and colorway has a great deal to do with this clarity which in this case is good design and to be recommended. Depth of the watch is very neat at 10mm.

BocciaBack — Titanium screw down back with watch data

The movement appears to be a Japanese Citizen Miyota Cal. OS 11 Quartz Chronograph (60 minutes) and it functions well and is accurate to around +/-20secs month so is quite acceptable. There is also a chronograph reset function used if the 1/1 second hand doesn’t return to the O position after the chronograph has been reset or after a battery change.

The watch power is a Silver Oxide SR9 27W battery or equivalent.
The watch is marked on the screw down Titanium back as 10bar (100ft) water resistance. I understand all Boccia Chronographs are 10bar.

Build quality appears excellent, the all Titanium case is well finished and the rubber strap is of good quality – Note this watch can also take a standard leather strap as an alternative as the case features standard lugs and pins. A point I’ve made before and I’m really pleased to see it here. In fact thinking further on this, a good Nato strap would suit this model very well if rubber is not your thing. I’ll post an update when I fit one later this month for comparison. (see addendum below)

So what do we know about Boccia watches?

It is marketed from the United States importers Universal Watch Company (NOT to be confused with the UWC of Geneve fame) who have their headquarters in Las Vegas. Watches are said to have either good quality Japanese or sometimes Swiss movements in their range of products and I’m assuming this one is Japanese with the Cal. OS11 description. I’ve not unscrewed the back as I’ve no wish to compromise the water resistance – I’ll check it out when it eventually needs a battery. With no data that I can find as to manufacture location I would surmise the watches are built and produced in the Orient somewhere and nothing wrong with that, though I note that their design team is actually European.

Marina Sechi from Italy
Minuca Casadavell from Spain
Michael Qvortrup from Denmark

I quote the above data from one of their outlets and I can see certainly see the European influence in the finished designs.

So a marriage of European and Orient – and hopefully taking the best from both. If this is an example of East West collaboration then I’ll certainly look out for more of them and especially if this model is a precursor of things to come. They are also reasonably priced for what appears to me to be a decent mid range quality product.

So overall a nice Chronograph in Titanium for a fair bit under £200 and complete with a 2 year International Guarantee and instruction booklet which includes a list of Wordwide Service Centers.

Not much to complain about though perhaps the luminous quality could be improved if I was being picky.

But nevertheless the Boccia Titanium’s are now on my watch list . . . . .

Addendum – I mentioned that I thought this watch might suit a Nato strap – Well I was wrong – it doesn’t.
The reason is that as this watch is quite large lug to lug the Nato strap quite doesn’t sit the watch snug against my smallish wrist (170mm). Regarding the supplied strap which for a buckle version is really very good, I confess with rubber straps a preference to a deployment or fold-over clasp to buckle, so as an alternative I’m in the process of buying a third party 22mm silicon rubber strap with a fold-over clasp and I’ll let you know on an update feature once it arrives and I try it out.
Actually as I write I’m wearing it with the supplied buckle strap and whilst ii is comfortable it has a pronounced curve just at the lugs and if being picky it can’t quite sit against my smallish wrist perhaps as I would like, so the alternative one should be an interesting trial.

See Bocca Addendum – post dated 18th February 2011

World Perpetual Citizen

The watch featured today is the Eco-Drive A-T CB0020-09E also known as the World Perpetual A-T – a superbly made 42mm diameter, 11mm depth stainless steel Radio Controlled model from Citizen.

CitAT01 — World Calendar Citizen AT – Eco-Drive, perpetual Calendar, Radio Controlled, instant world time analog and only 11mm depth – a masterpiece!

This is the rubber strapped version (a couple come with leather straps and a couple with bracelets are also available). And an excellent quality of silicon rubber strap it is too, with a nice double push button fold-over clasp. Like many other rubber straps however whilst it is adjustable it also tends to be a sort of final adjustment if you have small wrists as cutting is the name of the game, which is a pity. However as alluded to in my previous post, this is not the end of the world as this watch has standard case and lug arrangements, so a replacement alternative rubber or leather strap is easily sourced and fitted.

CitATWrist — 43mm x 11mm makes for a neat watch on the wrist

As said the other versions come with alternative strap arrangements, but this is not the only difference.

Whilst this model has a button @4 which is used to set the world time for example, the leather strap version has a recessed pusher instead. I personally prefer the button as it can easily be operated with the finger and not the end of a pen or other pointed object which may not be to hand.
Another difference is the omission of a bezel – where this model is clearly marked with the city positions – the strap versions have no bezel and the city markers are tucked under the sapphire crystal and part of the dial. Those who are familiar with my blog will know I’m not a great fan of bezels, but in this case not only does it look well but I find it a little easier to read. And apart from some other minor variations the watches share the same functionality and internal mechanics.
The flat sapphire crystal is anti-reflection coated and is very effective, especially as the internal dial markers and so on are not over chromed or reflective anyway and as a result the dark dial face has good contrast and is clear and easy to read.

The movement is the H144 caliber and with radio receivers built in and Radio Controlled so assuming you can receive a signal from one of the 5 transmitting stations, then it’s pretty much the perfect time keeper – it’s stand-alone accuracy without RC is pretty much standard fare for this range of Citizens at around +/-15secs per month.
Radio Control wise, the watch automatically scans for a signal at 2am, then 3am and 4am. If it receives successfully at either of these, then further attempts are deactivated. You can also initiate demand reception manually rather than wait for the automatic update and this is easily done. Simply press and hold the button @4 for around 2 seconds then release. The seconds multi-function hand will move to the “RX” in the little window @9. Let the watch sit in a position where it can best get the signal and note the receiver on this watch is on the 9 side of the case, so point that side roughly towards where the signal is

CitWristClasp — Stainless push button fold-over clasp

Here in the northern hemisphere I point it south as the European radio transmitter is located in Germany and it manages fine – here it takes under 5 minutes (the instruction booklet says allow up to 15 minutes as it’s dependent on signal strength).
After the update completes, the second hand returns to normal operation. The indication of success or otherwise can be checked easily – simply press the button once and the seconds multifunction hand will move to the little window @9 and point to OK or NO. Can’t be much clearer than that!

Interesting system means this watch is a perpetual calendar until 2100 anyway – set the time and it sets the year, month and day automatically. But note that only the date is shown in the window@3, it doesn’t display day or month like the ana/digi Citizen Attesa models, such as the ATV53-2833 (click for my review).
Note – in case of problems the day, date, month and year can be set manually. There is also a quick set date concealed pusher @2 – so pretty much everything is catered for.

Setting the world time in 26 cities and time zones from 0 to 12 with a couple of half zones in there, is a piece of cake – crown to position 1 and turning it moves the seconds hand (which doubles as a control pointer) to each city in turn. The hands follow automatically to whatever zone is selected. Daylight Savings time is indicated in the little window between the 4 and 5 o’clock position and will automatically be set when a signal is received. It too can be set manually if needed.

Being one of Citizen’s Eco-drive models it doesn’t require battery changes. Managing to power itself from available light, when fully charged it can run for 2 years with the power save function activated or around 6 months if not (Power Save is used if the watch is in the dark for 7 days – it stops the hands and deactivates the Radio Control receive function, but the watch continues to keep quartz time).
Note that the watch will also not try to get a signal if the power is low – indicated by the second hand moving in 2 second intervals – another neat feature of this watch.

Other features include a full reset, hand repositioning etc. and the Time and Calendar can also be set manually to allow the auto calendar function to continue after that.

So all in all a pretty comprehensive unit, beautifully made, an excellent 200m Water Resistance, a very comfortable rubber strap and with sensible operational and safety features seamlessly built in. It can be found from around £230 in the UK, though fortunately I managed to find this one for less and coupled with the inclusive Citizen 5 year Guarantee I’m pretty pleased with this new and modern watch for my collection.

Update – May 2013

In use this model has proved to be one of the best everyday watches I have and as a World Time model it is perhaps the best I’ve ever owned. Basically as it’s operation is so simple and fool-proof. I have found in the past that some World Time models if not used for a while it can be tricky to remember the sequence required to set time zones or change back to local time. Very embarrassing on the plane when the chap next to you simply moves his 1 jewel Mickey Mouse hands back one hour and you’re still trying to figure out what to do with your all “singing and dancing” World Time watch! This model though is really, really easy – just pull out the crown, turn one click and an hour change is what you have – exactly.

Latest update – Nov 2022

After 9 years since my last update, I decided to check it out as I am wearing it as my daily wearer for the winter months – and because I am involved in travel again to various parts of the world. So, a World timer such as this is essential. I said back in 2013 that it was perhaps the best I’ve ever owned for that purpose and I can amend that to say it is without doubt, THE best world timer I own.

Basically as it is so easy to change the time to whatever zone you are in. Simply pull out the crown (first unscrew the lock-down) to position 1 and move clockwise or anticlockwise to the city/zone you desire. It will consolidate that zone once it connects to the radio control in that area.

I also have to say that this model is as good as it was the day I bought it, no marks, no scratches, perfectly working and basically indestructible. The only change I made was to replace the Citizen deployment band, not because it was faulty, but having small wrists, I found the mechanism did not sit as flat on my wrist as I liked. I simply changed the deployment to another generic silicon one, which is perfect.

So, very lucky over the years to find two watches that I wear easily and which I love, with no downsides at all. So, with my 1999 Breitling Aerospace repetition minutes model and this Citizen – it makes me wonder why I collect other watches at all?

Strapped Santos

Recently I acquired via family sources, this nice little Quartz Cartier watch which has been through the wars a bit and I know, I know it should have a bracelet. However the one fitted had been partly torn off in an accident, badly damaged and beyond repair. Luckily the lugs of the watch were relatively unscathed with only minor damage and some small marks to the case.

This model is a Santos Steel & Gold W20060D6 quartz version I believe which was re-issued probably as a “homage” to the original 1904 model. Roman numerals with blue steel sword shaped hands and with a date window @6. The movement is a Swiss Quartz Calibre 687 and running perfectly once I fitted a new battery. A nice neat size of watch too with a square face of 29mm x 29mm actually which suits me very well.

So what to do? Either source a Cartier bracelet which would be very expensive or find an alternative.
The answer was easy for me as I’ve always disliked the Santos bracelet (I actually I don’t like many Cartier bracelets) – and the Santos I’d owned myself some years ago used to hurt my wrist as it was too sharp and after 12 months of a raw wrist I sold it on.

Now to replace with an alternative bracelet is almost impossible unless specially made as the bracelet fitting is very tricky. The fixing pin is hard against the case body, very unusual and fits into a little recess on the very end of the bracelet.

I thought OK – if I’m going to keep the watch it has to have a strap? Well this initially looked a little difficult owing to the fixing problem – the bracelet securing pin holes in the lugs were far, far too close to the case. The existing pins were unusable being badly distorted owing to the damage and even if they had been OK they were too thick to use, as even bent it would not have been possible to fit a strap between them and the case body.

I solved the problem quite easily in the end by using a much thinner steel wire (a paper clip actually) than the original pins and cut them at a length to slightly protrude from the lug holes at either side. I then bent the wire outwards from the case between the lugs enough to allow an open ended strap to slide between the wire and the case. This bending of the pin effectively shortened the pin by pulling the pin ends inwards slightly, thus making them fit just inside the holes without protruding which was perfect. My open ended strap then managed to fit with a bit of juggling and this is the result. The strap is a great high quality camel grain leather one I found at Watchworx.

As said I never like the look of Cartier bracelets generally and personally think the watches look far better with a strap. Which is why I prefer more recent Cartier watches like the Santos 2007 for example as they are proper strap watches, having the strap fixing holes in the correct place. However I have to admit a sneaking preference for this older model with it’s classic style blued steel sword hands rather than the infill hands of the newer ones.

So all in all I’m pretty pleased and now have a colorful little dress watch, albeit a bit of a “homer” if being critical and one that suits me quite nicely. A good day all round!

Oh just a point about lugs and bracelets etc.

These days I always check the case construction of any watch I’m interested in to see if it can possibly be fitted with a standard strap. It is noticeable that many bracelet models have the cases modified in some way and profiled for the particular bracelet or strap and often with oddly shaped lug fixings that make it impossible to change.

Their are literally hundreds of watch styles and models out there that have really quite unique straps or bracelets. All sorts of strap or bracelet styles, maybe rubber or resin or composites of some kind and whilst they may look great and perhaps compliment the watch – what happens if they wear out or break? (rubber ones used to go brittle and break on me after about a year). If the model is an older model it can be well nigh impossible to get an original replacement and owing to that odd case/lug arrangement it’s pretty impossible to get any kind of replacement at all!
Couple this with the fact that many watches in the market place may have little or no after sales support, the watch ends up effectively useless as no OEM bracelet will actually be available anyway.

I don’t have any of the “sport” watches with those sort of “built-in composite straps” as I find there is simply no way to replace the strap nor get any kind of replacement at all. To me this is where “fashion” more often than not does away with “function” completely and is a non starter.

So I check the case/lug construction and make sure that the case has what I regard as a standard lug arrangement. Just sometimes though you do manage to find the odd watch that manages to provide form and function. There are quite a few around of course which co-incidentally leads me nicely to the fact that my next post features just such a watch.
This one perhaps unusually has up to 3 different versions and offered with the choice of bracelet, rubber or leather, which seems to me to be the most wonderfully enlightened and sensible idea.

Standard lugs you see – so important.