Citizen Vintage Surfer?

I love it when I find a watch model that doesn’t appear to fit with the familiarity of the “normal” version and especially when it’s from the Golden Era of the big three Japanese brands – Citizen Casio and Seiko.

Take the unusual cased D100 Citizen Promaster Windsurfer, which unlike the standard black resin model features a metalised reshaped case with the addition of an orange/yellow outer bezel stylised colorway band around the top face. It alters the look considerably.

This one lost its original black resin strap somewhere along the years and has an alternative Casio strap, which in all honesty could easily have been the same as the original, though minus the printed wind-speed data. A good point to note with these older vintage models is the use of standard spring bars, so alternative straps are possible, which is a plus over many current models.

The D100 model was introduced back in the late 1980’s (this one is 1988) and so far I’m unable to find a Manual for it. However as with many of the older digital models it’s fairly intuitive and the basic timekeeping functions are easy to work out and operate. This model has a Memo function so Stopwatch events (I think 5) can be stored in memory and recalled later. I have another Citizen model with this function which may be similar (mod 948).
On this model it appears the module and all functions appear to be working as they should, which is so important when collecting these old models.

And as with many of these old Citizen and Casio models the term “Windsurfer” was basically a marketing description to attract those looking for a “complication” digital watch. Calculations as such, were limited to printed data tables on the original rubber strap, such as wind-speed/velocity etc. However the watch is conventional in that it features a fairly standard function set.

Function-wise – it states them quite clearly on the dial in white lettering – Alarm, Timer, Stopwatch and Memo and the Time (hours, minutes and seconds), Day, Date and Month are running indications. There is also a colored mobile display in green and red showing seconds, with additional segments of 10, 20 and 30 second and a running 5 seconds are indicated in small blocks in a mobile green display and the collective times in red segments – so an interesting display even in standard timekeeping mode. The lower Time and Calendar digital dial contrast is exceptional for the vintage and is very easy to read.

This model also has a 100m Water Resistance courtesy of a flat, steel 4 screw back plate, though being a vintage model I have not tried it out and don’t intend to either.

Flat steel screwed back plate = 100m Water Resistance (I have hidden Ser No) — Flat steel screwed back plate = 100m Water Resistance (Serial No. brushed out)

But why is the D100 so difficult to find compared with the D060 or D120? – I have no real answer for that, but as a collector the attraction for me is perhaps just that very fact. I have seen a few of them before, though not in great condition, but also a long way from the UK, South America and Southern Europe as I recall.

And that’s the thing about older digital vintage model variations, and there’s lots of ’em, that when you do come across one, you might have to do a bit of investigation to find specific or indeed any relevant information. The production date isn’t too difficult if you have an idea of the decade the model came out – the model number indicates the Year and the Month and even the number of pieces produced.
But other than that, more often than not you don’t find much else with vintage digitals and sometimes you can draw a blank. In this instance there’s no indication of any Module No. which is a pity. (I’ll probably remove the back soon and see what’s stamped there).

Generally though this lack of data is a real a shame as many of these models were variants resulting from a period when new modules and new technology were appearing almost daily and are the precursors of many of today’s current models.

Anyway lack of information or not, I like this particular model as it’s different from the usual ones which could often scuff easily, whereas this metalized case seems that little bit harder and as a result is looking great and almost as new.

Indeed it can be a fascination in itself collecting even just one model from a brand such as Citizen, as they were definitely front runners in both the technology and the display of data in watches at an exciting time in digital watch development.
I know a few guys who specialise in just that and one or two have almost every version of the same model covering many years of development. Now I’m not quite as obsessive yet but I have done a little of that myself in the collection of Casio Compass function watches from the early 1970’s onwards. It showed me for example that the compass functions themselves haven’t improved much over the intervening years until the advent of the triple axis compass.

Even then it was more to do with functionality than accuracy. (The need for keeping the compass flat and steady was no longer required). I say that as I’d still put up some of the older twin axis models against triple axis and if used properly I wouldn’t guarantee which would be the most accurate.

So another vintage digital joins my little collection and I have more ready to Post once I’ve time to take the pictures. Three Casio multi-display models from the Golden Age that are in excellent condition and operating as well as they did when bought new.

Perpetual Calendar out of date? – This one ran out in 2004, so when setting (lower right pusher hold to set) simply minus 28 years and carry on. The watch internals are now happy and will synchronise the day and date albeit on this new year setting – and the perpetual day/date calendar is correct for the next 28 years (or until the battery runs out, then you do the same again – OK – the CR2016 battery can last up to 6 years! depending on usage.

Simple Date

Often with unisex watches that are not physically large, one of the problems if showing a date window is they are so small and therefore difficult to read.

Rolf Cremer Bogen Gent from Germany. Double Date clarity.

I found this model Rolf Cremer Bogen Gent 492801 Quartz watch recently that solves the problem neatly with the addition of a proper Double Date window set in it’s plain color dial.

Numerals and indices are omitted for clarity and the good contrasting red colored hour and minutes hands are complimented by the centre seconds hand with it’s black dot pointer.
The double date aperture is @12 and is designed as the main feature of the watch.
The crystal is mineral glass, the case in stainless steel and the wrist band is in complimentary red quality leather. Dimensions of the watch are neat at 34.3 mm wide, 9.5 mm depth and 45.5 mm lug to lug and overall the watch has a superb modern clean line look, perfect for day or dress wear.

Another plus is the fact the watch is not expensive at around 139 Euros.

In my opinion this is a great example of good design and function. Clear to read, elegant looks and deceptively simple in form, it’s one of those models that’s just perfect for those little occasions – not flash, not minimalistic silly – but rather elegant, modern and rather refined.

Casio elegance +

To some the concept of “Casio and elegance” may seem to be a contradiction in terms, yet they do have a model which to my mind just about manages to fit the phrase. This is the Casio LCW-M170TD-1AER (the usual clunky code model number), part of the Lineage series and here it does describe a rather neatly specified and yes “elegant” model.

Casio Lineage LCW-M170TD-1AER complication dress watch

In dress style form it is surprisingly well specified as it is both Solar powered, Radio Controlled (multi band 6) with a World Time* function and it’s Ana/Digi (with a center seconds hand) and with the emphasis on analog in looks, with just a neat secondary digital and on this model a positive display in the lower segment. A round solid Titanium light weight (80 gms) case with excellent dimensions of just 39.5 mm diameter and very slim at just 9.2 mm height, this is a sleek watch considering the complications.

It also has a 5 bar Water Resistance (50 m) so can be viewed as a dress watch that doesn’t mind getting it’s feet wet. The crystal unusually for Casio is in synthetic Sapphire, so scratches are virtually eliminated and the pushbutton bracelet is also made of solid Titanium incorporating a twin push catch.

The slight downside for me is that Casio’s Module 5161 is not the most up to date, noticeable in the *World Time function by the fact that only 29 City Time Zones are represented (the latest models feature some 40 zones) and omits Newfoundland, Canada (sorry guys) which has a UTC offset of -3.5 hrs – it won’t indicate that particular zone automatically. It has a 1/100 sec to 1 hr Stop Watch with elapsed time, split time and 5 independent Alarms, Auto calendar and an LED back light. The battery used is the CTL920 and there is a battery level indicator.

Solid Titanium bracelet with twin push catch

The analog hands are luminous and the dial background is black though I note it can be slightly reflective at times, but that said it doesn’t seem to be an issue from the reports and reviews I’ve seen to date. I already noted that this version features a positive digital display and indeed of the 4 variations offered I believe it is the only one, the others being negative displays. I personally find it easier to see positive displays than the negative ones.

I have to think this is maybe a slight departure for a Casio complication model, as they’ve managed to refrain from having it shrouded in Shock protection, nor is it oversize. And it does prove to me at last that they can easily squeeze the technology into a sensible standard sized dress style watch.

This model also features a standard spring bar fitting arrangement for the bracelet, so if you fancy a change it’s simple to fit a standard strap should you prefer one. And that IS unusual for Casio today.

So for those looking for a surprisingly well specified watch with all the mod cons complication wise you could wish for and within a dress watch style, this could be the one for you.
A wolf in sheep’s clothing perhaps – and if you don’t like macho or flash, I think you’ll find this model rather elegant with it’s dress style looks – but PLUS a surprising set of functions hidden within.

Elegance + – could be a good name for it instead of that big code?

Note – Not intended as a true travel watch it is not possible to swap the analog time and the digital time (for another time zone for example). However it is quite easy if changing time zones, to change your home digital time to the destination time – the analog hands will move to the new “home” time, as they are programmed to indicate Home time by default.

The best gets better! (updated April 1st 2016)

As you probably know if you read my web site, one of my favorite models is my Citizen AT, which I’ve had for several years now (2010). I love it because I travel a great deal and it is easily one of the simplest of watches to use for different time zones. Simply pull out the crown, turn the second hand to the time zone required and push in again – job done. All you have to know is where you’re going!

Citizen CC3005-85E Solar, GPS - about as good as it gets. . . — Citizen CC3005-85E Solar, GPS – about as good as it gets. . .

Now with my new purchase I don’t even need to know that! Citizen’s new GPS model takes care of that with the advent of new and superior GPS technology, which supersedes even Radio Control which I naively thought was the ultimate! But my old AT of course was dependent on Radio Transmitter location, so conceivably could be out of contact. 😦

GPS offers so much more, yet the earlier GPS enabled Citizen watches didn’t really do it for me, as they had an angular case shape left over from the Attesa series, which if small to average wrist size, they never quite fitted as snugly as I wanted. For me that all important lug to lug size being seemed a little bit too long and at the wrong angle and so over hung the wrist.

This latest model CC3005-85E however is a different ball game altogether. It goes back to the more conventional and in my view a sensible case shape, which fits my wrist just fine and although cased is 44 mm x 13 mm, has that neater lug to lug dimension and angle.

Now where my older AT model was great, this new GPS model is exceptional and it really comes into its own in all respects. Using the new F150 movement, it has an increased accuracy out of the box and even without GPS or Radio Control is within +/- 5 seconds per month, which is really, really good. Add in the GPS function and with one press, hold and and release of the lower right button (A) until the seconds hand moves to rx/time. It then synchronizes with satellite (confirms by moving to OK) then corrects to the exact local time in all around 3 seconds. This is a lot quicker than the ground based Radio Control models I’m used to and indeed any other GPS model I’ve seen.
Update – (Note – owing to the accuracy of the F150 movement (+/- 5 secs) this watch doesn’t really require an auto time check every day – but if more than 6 days since the last time check, it will automatically seek & correct the Time via satellite between 6am and 6pm).

When traveling it can now locate (previous models did not have this feature) which out of the 40 time zones you are in by a longer press, hold and release (4 secs) of the lower right button (A) – the second hand this time will point to rx/gps and calibrate the Zone and Time using 4 satellites within just 3 minutes. As before if successful it will quickly flick to OK and then the Zone and Time are corrected.

So no need to do much of anything again except on occasion push a button – and that means ease of use (so often the enemy of complication watches) which is quite amazing. You can of course quickly set a Zone & Time without using GPS at all by simply pulling out the crown to Pos 1, turning to the Time Zone/City required and push the crown in, just like my old AT model.

Simple display plus complication technology a sure fire winner.

I like the fact this model not only calibrates and shows the Time, Day and the Date, each of which is shown on the dial, but displays it in analog on a simple and clear, easy to read dial. I am really pleased that Citizen have achieved what I have long been an advocate of – a simple “display v complication” ratio – and this model manages this to perfection. The Solar cell internal charging system is also nothing short of spectacular (updated yet again) and can operate for a day after just 3 minutes in the sun. I find this extraordinary and coupled with the fact that, once fully charged, if you chuck it in a drawer, it will manage via its Power Save function to keep ticking away internally for up to 7 years!

Even without Power Save activated it will run happily for around 2 years.

Now I have to ask myself if I actually need all this technology, as being perfectly honest my current AT model does just fine, but HEY! this is tech done right! And I collect watches, so it was a no brainer that I was going to get it – wasn’t it!

Practically I like the fact it has decent luminous hands and baton markers and the dial is uncluttered, very clean, clear and very easy to read.

There is also a Battery Charge indicator around the right segment of the sub dial, marked with 5 lines. Battery Charge shows what is in the tank so to speak, the level of battery charge – press and release the upper right button (B) and the sub-dial pointer indicates the level of charge – towards the top line is the best (see image) and will give up to 24 months.

The Power Generation indicator means this – if you want to ensure the watch is charging it needs a position where it can get to light. Outside sun is the best of course as it will charge quicker. So to check you have a good position for charging – press and release the upper right button (B) again and this time note the analog hands. These will close together forming a large pointer which will indicate on the main dial (note the 6 lines around the dial from 12 to 6 ) if the watch is getting enough light to charge. The 6 o’clock position is the best (see image). Note if below 5 o’clock then it’s better to find somewhere with more light to efficiently charge the battery.

I’ve found with mine that even outside on a white cloud dull day the Power Generation pointer is indicating MAX, so it’s getting enough light to charge properly. That’s gratifying as where I live to see the sun is a cause for celebration!

I tend to leave most of my solar powered watches on a window ledge in the house and they all have full charge indicated – it always ensures my watches are at their best. Note the watches cannot overcharge in normal light situations. (they could of course overheat if left on a dashboard in direct sun). Also I would note that if you wear the watch as your daily beater and you usually have bare arms then the watch will more than likely always have full charge. If however you wear the watch under a sleeve, then you should make a point of locating it somewhere there is good light, at least for a a few hours every month. But you can easily see the Battery state at any time so you can make your own regime that works for you.

Clever indications of Power Reserve and power Generation. — Clever indications of Power Reserve and Power Generation.

Nice deployment bracelet - which I might change to silicon . . . but we'll see . . — High quality bracelet with standard spring-bars (24mm) – so if a strap preferred can easily be changed.

Sapphire glass is used so few scratches will ever bother you and with its Perpetual Calendar until February 28^th 2100 should also see me out (if not it means either I’m unique in my own right, or my watch has got a problem, and I know which one is likely to fail!).

And perhaps best of all, for me, is the fact that this wonderful technology comes in a familiar and, considering the technology, an understated style and just as unobtrusive as my Solar AT model. Citizen have definitely got this one right – improved and upgraded technology in almost every department and managed it all in a sensible case size. To then display that technology without an F16 cockpit dial set up is also to be applauded.

I love it and I love this one too.

There are competitors out there of course not least Seiko, but I’ve had a look at them and so far they don’t do it for me! They all tend to look a bit cluttered and look complicated and I have the impression the technology seems to be shoehorned in to the case. And on the wrist they are just not that super easy to read.

But Citizen with this model have very successfully merged technology and simplicity together in a very sleek and dare I say conventional watch – complicated yes, high tech yes, but super simple to use.

Now for me that’s real progress.

A friend has a Seiko GPS model though I prefer the Citizen. Not sure of the model but from what I’ve seen this Citizen has a few plus points over it.
The Citizen has a much clearer and uncluttered dial in comparison, it also has a smaller case, a much longer charge life up to 24 months (7 years with Power Save) and it is a far more accurate watch movement (Seiko is +/- 15 secs – and Citizen +/- 5 secs), so it’s really not essential to time check every day (why they’ve not provided an auto time check function). The main points for me are the simple uncluttered dial, the size and the ease of use of the Citizen.
However as always in his fast moving field, no doubt the next model of either watch will improve, so it’s up to personal choice at the end of the day, but I certainly love this one.

Note – The Time check indicator if selected will indicate probably NO if you haven’t time checked for 6 days – this is just a reminder to Time check every so often, though with a non GPS accuracy of +/- 5 secs I suggest it hardly matters. I’ll probably do a Time Check/Adjust monthly maybe . . . .

Updated 12th March 2016 – new images shown here with silicon replacement deployment strap (24mm width)

Citizen cc3005-85E with silicon deployment strap — Citizen cc3005-85E with 24 mm wide silicon deployment strap

Great luminous qualities on a super simple dial.

Very clean case back - standard spring-bar bracelet or strap fittings — Very clean case back – standard spring-bar bracelet or strap fittings

Note – Whilst a GPS watch uses Satellite signals this doesn’t mean it doesn’t use Radio signals, because it does of course. Each of the main 24 satellites around the earth carries an Atomic Clock and the GPS watch picks up the radio signals from these. It should also be noted that the satellite clock is compensated and a small correction applied. The space based clock,s owing to the fact they run in a reduced gravity, actually run slightly fast by around a net 38 microseconds a day compared to ground based clocks. Not that this should worry anyone – as long as the computer chips within the clock works of course!

Anyway I see on my office clock it’s about 10 at the moment so a cup of tea is required . . . . . . 🙂

And the time is – approximately . . .

With all the hype about accuracy in time, it seems that there’s always a place for those who aren’t that worried about it. And for those laid back people there is the nice series of models from Botta and indeed I had one myself – I had the Botta 24, but I sold it on as I found I wasn’t wearing it. A sure sign that a watch is or isn’t for me is that very fact – do I wear it? And in the case of the Botta 24, I didn’t. Not because it was a poor watch, far from it, but rather being a Single Handed dial system, I found, after the initial fascination, that it was just too tiresome to read. I found myself straining to tell the time and that’s just NOT for me. So in the end I sold it on to someone who could manage to live with it.

The Botta ONE HANDED Nova Carbon — The Botta SINGLE HANDED Nova Carbon

So it was with some interest that I spotted the latest Botta Nova Carbon automatic – which is yet again a Single Handed watch, but with a clear difference. This time there are no tiny figured sub-scales on the dial (I needed glasses to see them on the Botta 24), but rather a neat plain dial divided up into 12 simple (hour) segments. The only indicator – the Hour hand is just visible as a bright green tip which slowly progresses around the dial, through each hour segment and indicates the time accordingly. The center of the dial is black printed on the sapphire crystal. When reading the time, the eye of the wearer is cleverly pulled attention wise into that one hour segment, where the hand is pointing and it is surprisingly easy to approximate the time.

Interesting 3 part stainless steel Botta back, with sapphire crystal. Note crown access.

The image here shows the time to be approximately 1:40, though the wearer does have to know whether it’s day or night and fortunately I can still just about manage that!

The watch is powered by the Swiss 2824-2 automatic caliber movement, a most reliable movement, which includes an Incabloc anti-shock plus 25 ruby bearings. I note that Botta hand adjust every movement over a few days, prior to retail to maximize accuracy.

A dual domed Sapphire crystal includes anti-reflection coatings and with a complimentary exhibition back also in Sapphire. Fully screwed stainless steel 3 part case with dimensions of 44 mm x 8.8 mm is lightweight at just 75 g, means this is a very neat watch which sits extremely flat on the wrist. Water resistance like most other Botta models is 3 atm. I note owing to the case back shape (see image) the crown is much easier to access than the Botta 24 which was very small and too smooth to grip.

So an intriguing watch from Botta and yet another variation on the Single Handed display system and I have the feeling that, as it is, for want of a better word I’ll call it an “approximate” watch, I don’t envisage I’d suffer eye strain this time as a result of reading it.

In fact it’s really very easy – a quick glance and it’s obviously around 1:40.

Could I live with it? well I thought I could with the Botta 24 and didn’t manage it, but this one certainly has a much better chance. However priced at over $1000 and without a Day or Date, would I get my money’s worth.

Maybe I would wear it for a while . . . . or . . . . maybe the jury’s still out on this one for me at this “approximate” moment in time. 🙂

Note 1 – The Botta Nova Carbon is also available in Quartz at approximately $540 – but my reservations I’m afraid still apply – novelty or practicality?

Note 2 – From a collectors point of view, “designer” watches such as the Botta all tend to suffer in the pre-owned market. Not really sure why, though in many cases Designer watches are showing off perhaps a novelty aspect of a watch and often something very different. It is unfortunately true also that most people, including myself, have a short attention span when it comes to novelties – in that the novelty wears off!
From experience I can say that selling on “designer” models is never easy. Even though I was reasonably lucky when I sold on my Botta 24, it certainly didn’t reach the value that I personally put on it. But that’s life . . . .

Head turner

Been in Germany for a few weeks and managed to come away with another designer watch that for me is a neat dress idea.

The "Turn" by Rolf Cremer - drivers watch style and modern too. — The “Turn” by Rolf Cremer – drivers watch style and modern too.

A very modern take on the old “drivers” model idea where the wearer if driving a car for example, can see the time clearly without moving the wrist on the steering wheel. The clever old idea of turning the watch face/dial by a few degrees makes all the difference.

With the “Turn” series from Rolf Cremer in such a large range of dial and strap color combinations, it really is a watch for the dress conscious amongst us and ideal for that night out. It’s also that little bit different and draws a few comments I can tell you.

It is also, owing to it’s neat dimensions, a true unisex model at just 25 mm wide, 7 mm depth and 35 mm lug to lug. Perhaps seen as rather small for the more masculine, but as a dress watch under a shirt cuff, it works well.

Nothing extraordinary about the watch technically of course, though it comes with a nice leather strap, Titan tough glass and an amazing range of color combinations.

Just part of the range of "Turn" combinations. — Just part of the range of “Turn” combinations.

Quartz movement, basic analog time indication with center seconds hand and in various colors. I like this particular combination 491816 (retails for 149.99 Euros) as it’s nice and clear to read, but there are plenty to choose from to suit your particular needs. The leather straps are available as separate purchases should you wish to change the look.

I would have liked to have found this range of watches before Christmas as they will certainly make good and reasonable cost gift ideas for either sex and I’ll definitely keep a note of them for future reference.

Note that Rolf Cremer of Germany manufacture a wide range of other models and their web site may be of interest – HERE.

The Re-Run Nixon

Always on the lookout for that affordable, fashion conscious, interesting model at that special price. A model that has that “something” about it that separates it from the rest. I think I’ve found it in the shape of the Nixon – The Re-Run Leather.

Nixon Re-Run Leather watch — Nixon – The Re-Run Leather watch

It looks dead cool retro, yet it also looks “new” and that’s where it scores. A sort of laid back old style that just oozes individuality and with the wonderful old hickory style leather strap it really does work for me.

Relatively simple with the basics displayed elegantly and clearly on the display screen, surrounded by a gold tone sleek and modern case design.

The standard layout display shows most of what you need to get by.
Front ABS buttons for display options such as Dual Time, Calendar, Alarm, Countdown Timer and Night light, its actually not badly specified and it has a Water Resistance of 30 m – and all under a hard Mineral Glass.

I have to admit that I like it and at an offer price I spotted currently of just £86.65 (less shipping) it has to be a cool find and a definite contender for that Christmas stocking.

Setting Day, Date, Months

I was asked the other day for advice on setting a friends mechanical automatic winding watch – specifically on when to set the days, dates and months as he found it sometimes tricky and difficult to get these parameters to move properly.

My own ideas on changing the complications have worked for me pretty well, with no mechanical issues resulting so I have to assume I’m doing it right – I passed this information to him and he suggested that maybe I should Post it on the web site – so here it is.

Take care adjusting complications - when NOT to do it! — Take care adjusting complications – when NOT to do it!

DO NOT change the Date between – 8.30pm and 02.00am.

DO NOT change the Day between – 11.30pm and 04.00am.

DO NOT change the Month between – 10.30pm and 00.00 (midnight).

This range of times to avoid should apply to most types of mechanical movements and even though this varies with movement Brands, hopefully I’ve allowed enough leeway to avoid any problems.

I tend to use the same no-go times for quartz triple date models too – get it wrong and sometimes they can be more problematic than mechanical!

Divers Marc & Apeks

Always on the lookout for affordable Divers watches, I was pleased to come across this offering from the German brand Marc & Sons. They usually deal exclusively from their online shop and pride themselves on value for money with this direct approach. Casting my eye over their range I liked this one as it manages to show a classic look with no frills, a good specification and good value too.

Marc & Sons Professional Diver, 300m MSD-033

This is the Marc & Sons Professional Automatic Diver model 300 M MSD-033 in Stainless Steel.

Technical data
– Reference Number: MSD-033
– Case: 316L stainless steel
– Stainless steel bracelet
– Lug width: 22.0 mm
– Double safety clasp with engraved logo
– Screw down crown
– black ceramic bezel – 120 clicks
– Automatic Movement Miyota caliber 8215
– Date at 3:00 clock position
– Dial: black
– Luminous hands and hour markers
– Indexes with Superluminova
– Helium valve on 10:00 o’clock position
– Scratch resistant sapphire crystal
– Screwed stainless steel back with engraved logo
– Pressure tested to 30 ATM

Strong luminous hands and markers, give good clarity. — Strong luminous hands and markers, plus clearly defined datum bezel marker.

Dimensions
– Diameter of the case: 42.5 mm (excluding crown)
– Complete case: 42.5 x 50.0 mm
– Height of the watch: 13.5 mm
– Total length: 25.5 cm
– Weight: 205 grams

The Miyota 8215 movement I suppose is a real workhorse and one of the most robust on the market, albeit not as refined as the ETA 2824-2 and it is NOT hacking, but personally this omission doesn’t cause me a problem. It’s still a good all round and solid performer and ideal for the Diver’s purpose. The power reserve on the Miyota is better than the ETA at some 45hrs and accuracy wise it’s fine for the job. I like the dial layout with the broad hands and combination of numerals, markers and color touches works just fine. Also impressive is the Dot second hand, a feature I’ve always liked. Look at the night image and the dial clarity is something else, very good with no distractions at all. Others should really take note! A good 120 click single rotation black ceramic bezel with clear markings makes for a very practical watch and at 300 m Water resistance the Helium valve becomes a useful feature.

Screwed Stainless Steel back , 300m Water Resistance and decent bracelet, shows quality. — Screwed Stainless Steel back , 300m Water Resistance and decent (Breitling like) bracelet, shows quality.

The inclusion of a Sapphire crystal is a nice bonus and overall the build quality is pretty good, so in the end you get a decent amount for the very affordable price of around £183.00 and I’d certainly be happy with this as an addition to my little Diver’s collection.

So one to watch – Marc & Sons and one that I confess I knew little off, so pleasantly surprised and good to see a solid performer at such a good price.

Mind you . . . . . . .
These days I look for the best possible value in Divers watches (my favorite Diver is the Apeks 200 m which I reviewed back in December 2013).
However if you’re in the market for a deep water watch, this model will take some beating – with believe it or not, another Apeks – the 1000 m Professional Mens Divers model.

Bargain Diver! The Apeks 1000m Mens Diver.

With a similar style to my older 200 m version this has a slightly heavier construction. In fact it has a bit of the Seiko Monster look about it and comes with a Helium escape valve that opens when the internal pressure is 4.5 Bar +/- 1.5 Bar higher than the external pressure. Also like the 200 m quartz powered and sports this time the Seiko-Epson VX42E date Quartz analogue movement. It also sports one of the better bracelets around – a Breitling-like solid stainless steel affair of excellent quality.

Now OK this may not quite have the same quality as the Marc in absolute terms, but this has a custom built quality specifically engineered to meet practical criteria and is totally fit for purpose. I have to think that for a sheer “value to purpose” ratio, there’s not much around to challenge it.

And once again this represents terrific value for money and available at the low price of £96.30 – and for that it just has to be a bargain!

Junkers Bauhaus classic

Well I’ve got it at last – the incentive being the Black Friday/Monday discount. The Classic Junkers 6060M-5 Bauhaus.

Time, Date, Power Reserve and 24 hr sub-dial from Junkers.

Bauhaus bridging the gap between art and industry by combining crafts and fine arts, this model absolutely fits the bill for me. The Bauhaus movement began in Germany in 1919 and was a style template for great things in all walks of life and a fusion of the practical and the aesthetic.

Here the concept is displayed in a rather stylish model and it has always attracted me and as I already love the Art Deco look, this suits my idea of what I want to wear. With a Stainless Steel 40 mm diameter case and around 11/12 mm height with a cream colored elegant dial, under a proprietary domed Hesalite crystal, this looks rather good.

Personally I would have preferred the watch to be thinner, but saying that, it’s OK. And this is not the first model I’ve had with Hesalite crystal which is actually quite good, glare free and extremely shatterproof, though conversely soft enough to scratch. The upside is that any scratches you do pick up can easily be polished out (if not too deep).

This Junkers Bauhaus version comes with a modified Citizen 9132, 26 Jewel Automatic movement,

Citizen 9132 Automatic with +40 hours reserve

beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour with Date aperture @3 and a decent Power Reserve of over 40 hours. An ultra smooth running center sweep Seconds hand in black and a 24 hr sub-dial featured @6 with a Date aperture @3, plus a Power Reserve indicator @12. The Date is adjusted by the center crown and features hacking (the watch stops whilst the crown is out to the second position) so accurate time setting is easy. Dot markers at 3, 6 and 9, are green luminescent, as is the infill area on the small Logo @12. The fine gold colored stick Hour and Minute hands are also luminous filled. Overall the dial is as Classic as you can get. The modified Citizen movement is a good choice in my opinion and in my experience can be remarkably accurate. Some reports indicate the rotor can be noisy, but this particular movement is no better or worse than my other automatics. This model features an exhibition back through which you can see the silver textured rotor movement and gives that little bit of added interest.

Chunky look accentuated by the Hesalite crystal.

The watch appears to have a close resemblance to the Max Bill series that I also like n that it shares the elegant yet simple dial layout which is uncluttered and practical. The 20 mm strap is slightly thinner than my previous Junkers and is good quality, though it’s a close run thing regarding the holes available and my 170 mm wrist. As I like to wear my watches snug to the wrist I might yet punch another hole.

Wearing the watch –
Even with original strap this watch is comfortable (at 40 mm diameter it’s just about the ideal dimension for a watch in my opinion). The watch being rather chunky also looks a little larger than it really is once on the wrist. Due mostly to the height of the case and also owing to the quite thick and rounded Hesalite crystal, easily 2 mm above the case (my wife thought it rather like the icing on top of a cake). However I like the general look of the watch and pleased to see that the large Logo which is prominent on many Junkers, is replaced with the name only plus a smaller Junkers logo as a marker @12, which is very unobtrusive.

Luminosity –
With green luminous paint applied just to the Logo @12 and the dot markers @3, 6 and 9 plus the infill on the very slim hands you would be forgiven thinking the watch was not so good at night. And you could not be more wrong. I found I could still read the time in darkness some 5 hours later and this was managed without artifice. Watch sitting under my bedside light table while I got ready for bed – perhaps 10 minutes? In other words in a very normal situation. I was very impressed.

Automatic in use –
As an automatic mechanical model the Citizen 9132 is very efficient and doesn’t take much wrist movement to wind it. Basically as soon as you put it on – it starts. If it’s been off the wrist for some time however it’s always a good thing to give it a wind or two with the crown to get it fully running.

Just to go back to the quietness of this movement –
I’m pleased to say that I don’t hear it at all on the wrist and only when pressed against my ear and I also don’t feel the rotor moving in normal wear. The movement itself via the exhibition back actually looks quite refined and not as utilitarian as they sometimes show.

So any down sides?
I suppose if I was picky I’d have to say I would like the watch to be thinner – I mean it looks as if it should be thinner, but it is chunky. In some images it looks really elegant – until you turn it sideways. Now I know it’s a silly point, but it really should be . . . . saying that I still like it and I have no real complaints at all and I’m very glad I have it. 🙂

Accuracy – I’ll report on this after a few days against my Radio Control watches, though it appears so far to be very good indeed and as expected.

Accuracy report –
As I guessed with the Miyota 9132 movement, it lives up to expectations for a movement that came out as an alternative to the Swiss ETA 2824 calibres. The Miyota 9100 series was introduced as an affordable alternative a while ago and as the Swiss maker ETA policy was to cease supplying movements/arts to all and sundry, somebody had to fill the vacuum – and very successfully too. As for time keeping this Junkers Miyota movement manages between 3 and 5 seconds (fast) per day and that’s straight out of the box. Unsure whether Pointec (Junkers Agency) have time adjusted it at all, but I’d say it’s easily as good practically as the old ETA 2824 and certainly in this limited complication.

Can’t help but think ETA made a bit of a misjudgment ( could even be suicidal) with this Policy, as it was inevitable that the Asian/Japanese brands would step up to the plate and produce not only a movement to rival ETA, but at a fraction of the cost. In my view the customer benefits tremendously, certainly on new models. My sympathies go out to pre-owned collectors and existing owners regarding the cost of repair and replacement parts for original ETA movements.

Quote –
Competition is always a good thing. It forces us to do our best. A monopoly renders people complacent and satisfied with mediocrity.

Nancy Pearcey

How true . . . . . . . . . . . . . 🙂