World Perpetual Citizen

The watch featured today is the Eco-Drive A-T CB0020-09E also known as the World Perpetual A-T – a superbly made 42mm diameter, 11mm depth stainless steel Radio Controlled model from Citizen.

CitAT01 — World Calendar Citizen AT – Eco-Drive, perpetual Calendar, Radio Controlled, instant world time analog and only 11mm depth – a masterpiece!

This is the rubber strapped version (a couple come with leather straps and a couple with bracelets are also available). And an excellent quality of silicon rubber strap it is too, with a nice double push button fold-over clasp. Like many other rubber straps however whilst it is adjustable it also tends to be a sort of final adjustment if you have small wrists as cutting is the name of the game, which is a pity. However as alluded to in my previous post, this is not the end of the world as this watch has standard case and lug arrangements, so a replacement alternative rubber or leather strap is easily sourced and fitted.

CitATWrist — 43mm x 11mm makes for a neat watch on the wrist

As said the other versions come with alternative strap arrangements, but this is not the only difference.

Whilst this model has a button @4 which is used to set the world time for example, the leather strap version has a recessed pusher instead. I personally prefer the button as it can easily be operated with the finger and not the end of a pen or other pointed object which may not be to hand.
Another difference is the omission of a bezel – where this model is clearly marked with the city positions – the strap versions have no bezel and the city markers are tucked under the sapphire crystal and part of the dial. Those who are familiar with my blog will know I’m not a great fan of bezels, but in this case not only does it look well but I find it a little easier to read. And apart from some other minor variations the watches share the same functionality and internal mechanics.
The flat sapphire crystal is anti-reflection coated and is very effective, especially as the internal dial markers and so on are not over chromed or reflective anyway and as a result the dark dial face has good contrast and is clear and easy to read.

The movement is the H144 caliber and with radio receivers built in and Radio Controlled so assuming you can receive a signal from one of the 5 transmitting stations, then it’s pretty much the perfect time keeper – it’s stand-alone accuracy without RC is pretty much standard fare for this range of Citizens at around +/-15secs per month.
Radio Control wise, the watch automatically scans for a signal at 2am, then 3am and 4am. If it receives successfully at either of these, then further attempts are deactivated. You can also initiate demand reception manually rather than wait for the automatic update and this is easily done. Simply press and hold the button @4 for around 2 seconds then release. The seconds multi-function hand will move to the “RX” in the little window @9. Let the watch sit in a position where it can best get the signal and note the receiver on this watch is on the 9 side of the case, so point that side roughly towards where the signal is

CitWristClasp — Stainless push button fold-over clasp

Here in the northern hemisphere I point it south as the European radio transmitter is located in Germany and it manages fine – here it takes under 5 minutes (the instruction booklet says allow up to 15 minutes as it’s dependent on signal strength).
After the update completes, the second hand returns to normal operation. The indication of success or otherwise can be checked easily – simply press the button once and the seconds multifunction hand will move to the little window @9 and point to OK or NO. Can’t be much clearer than that!

Interesting system means this watch is a perpetual calendar until 2100 anyway – set the time and it sets the year, month and day automatically. But note that only the date is shown in the window@3, it doesn’t display day or month like the ana/digi Citizen Attesa models, such as the ATV53-2833 (click for my review).
Note – in case of problems the day, date, month and year can be set manually. There is also a quick set date concealed pusher @2 – so pretty much everything is catered for.

Setting the world time in 26 cities and time zones from 0 to 12 with a couple of half zones in there, is a piece of cake – crown to position 1 and turning it moves the seconds hand (which doubles as a control pointer) to each city in turn. The hands follow automatically to whatever zone is selected. Daylight Savings time is indicated in the little window between the 4 and 5 o’clock position and will automatically be set when a signal is received. It too can be set manually if needed.

Being one of Citizen’s Eco-drive models it doesn’t require battery changes. Managing to power itself from available light, when fully charged it can run for 2 years with the power save function activated or around 6 months if not (Power Save is used if the watch is in the dark for 7 days – it stops the hands and deactivates the Radio Control receive function, but the watch continues to keep quartz time).
Note that the watch will also not try to get a signal if the power is low – indicated by the second hand moving in 2 second intervals – another neat feature of this watch.

Other features include a full reset, hand repositioning etc. and the Time and Calendar can also be set manually to allow the auto calendar function to continue after that.

So all in all a pretty comprehensive unit, beautifully made, an excellent 200m Water Resistance, a very comfortable rubber strap and with sensible operational and safety features seamlessly built in. It can be found from around £230 in the UK, though fortunately I managed to find this one for less and coupled with the inclusive Citizen 5 year Guarantee I’m pretty pleased with this new and modern watch for my collection.

Update – May 2013

In use this model has proved to be one of the best everyday watches I have and as a World Time model it is perhaps the best I’ve ever owned. Basically as it’s operation is so simple and fool-proof. I have found in the past that some World Time models if not used for a while it can be tricky to remember the sequence required to set time zones or change back to local time. Very embarrassing on the plane when the chap next to you simply moves his 1 jewel Mickey Mouse hands back one hour and you’re still trying to figure out what to do with your all “singing and dancing” World Time watch! This model though is really, really easy – just pull out the crown, turn one click and an hour change is what you have – exactly.

Latest update – Nov 2022

After 9 years since my last update, I decided to check it out as I am wearing it as my daily wearer for the winter months – and because I am involved in travel again to various parts of the world. So, a World timer such as this is essential. I said back in 2013 that it was perhaps the best I’ve ever owned for that purpose and I can amend that to say it is without doubt, THE best world timer I own.

Basically as it is so easy to change the time to whatever zone you are in. Simply pull out the crown (first unscrew the lock-down) to position 1 and move clockwise or anticlockwise to the city/zone you desire. It will consolidate that zone once it connects to the radio control in that area.

I also have to say that this model is as good as it was the day I bought it, no marks, no scratches, perfectly working and basically indestructible. The only change I made was to replace the Citizen deployment band, not because it was faulty, but having small wrists, I found the mechanism did not sit as flat on my wrist as I liked. I simply changed the deployment to another generic silicon one, which is perfect.

So, very lucky over the years to find two watches that I wear easily and which I love, with no downsides at all. So, with my 1999 Breitling Aerospace repetition minutes model and this Citizen – it makes me wonder why I collect other watches at all?

Strapped Santos

Recently I acquired via family sources, this nice little Quartz Cartier watch which has been through the wars a bit and I know, I know it should have a bracelet. However the one fitted had been partly torn off in an accident, badly damaged and beyond repair. Luckily the lugs of the watch were relatively unscathed with only minor damage and some small marks to the case.

This model is a Santos Steel & Gold W20060D6 quartz version I believe which was re-issued probably as a “homage” to the original 1904 model. Roman numerals with blue steel sword shaped hands and with a date window @6. The movement is a Swiss Quartz Calibre 687 and running perfectly once I fitted a new battery. A nice neat size of watch too with a square face of 29mm x 29mm actually which suits me very well.

So what to do? Either source a Cartier bracelet which would be very expensive or find an alternative.
The answer was easy for me as I’ve always disliked the Santos bracelet (I actually I don’t like many Cartier bracelets) – and the Santos I’d owned myself some years ago used to hurt my wrist as it was too sharp and after 12 months of a raw wrist I sold it on.

Now to replace with an alternative bracelet is almost impossible unless specially made as the bracelet fitting is very tricky. The fixing pin is hard against the case body, very unusual and fits into a little recess on the very end of the bracelet.

I thought OK – if I’m going to keep the watch it has to have a strap? Well this initially looked a little difficult owing to the fixing problem – the bracelet securing pin holes in the lugs were far, far too close to the case. The existing pins were unusable being badly distorted owing to the damage and even if they had been OK they were too thick to use, as even bent it would not have been possible to fit a strap between them and the case body.

I solved the problem quite easily in the end by using a much thinner steel wire (a paper clip actually) than the original pins and cut them at a length to slightly protrude from the lug holes at either side. I then bent the wire outwards from the case between the lugs enough to allow an open ended strap to slide between the wire and the case. This bending of the pin effectively shortened the pin by pulling the pin ends inwards slightly, thus making them fit just inside the holes without protruding which was perfect. My open ended strap then managed to fit with a bit of juggling and this is the result. The strap is a great high quality camel grain leather one I found at Watchworx.

As said I never like the look of Cartier bracelets generally and personally think the watches look far better with a strap. Which is why I prefer more recent Cartier watches like the Santos 2007 for example as they are proper strap watches, having the strap fixing holes in the correct place. However I have to admit a sneaking preference for this older model with it’s classic style blued steel sword hands rather than the infill hands of the newer ones.

So all in all I’m pretty pleased and now have a colorful little dress watch, albeit a bit of a “homer” if being critical and one that suits me quite nicely. A good day all round!

Oh just a point about lugs and bracelets etc.

These days I always check the case construction of any watch I’m interested in to see if it can possibly be fitted with a standard strap. It is noticeable that many bracelet models have the cases modified in some way and profiled for the particular bracelet or strap and often with oddly shaped lug fixings that make it impossible to change.

Their are literally hundreds of watch styles and models out there that have really quite unique straps or bracelets. All sorts of strap or bracelet styles, maybe rubber or resin or composites of some kind and whilst they may look great and perhaps compliment the watch – what happens if they wear out or break? (rubber ones used to go brittle and break on me after about a year). If the model is an older model it can be well nigh impossible to get an original replacement and owing to that odd case/lug arrangement it’s pretty impossible to get any kind of replacement at all!
Couple this with the fact that many watches in the market place may have little or no after sales support, the watch ends up effectively useless as no OEM bracelet will actually be available anyway.

I don’t have any of the “sport” watches with those sort of “built-in composite straps” as I find there is simply no way to replace the strap nor get any kind of replacement at all. To me this is where “fashion” more often than not does away with “function” completely and is a non starter.

So I check the case/lug construction and make sure that the case has what I regard as a standard lug arrangement. Just sometimes though you do manage to find the odd watch that manages to provide form and function. There are quite a few around of course which co-incidentally leads me nicely to the fact that my next post features just such a watch.
This one perhaps unusually has up to 3 different versions and offered with the choice of bracelet, rubber or leather, which seems to me to be the most wonderfully enlightened and sensible idea.

Standard lugs you see – so important.

Accutron – a well tuned watch.

Thought I’d post one of my more unusual watches. Not that unusual I suppose but different in that it doesn’t have a hairspring or balance wheel – and it doesn’t tick.

It hums………. and this one’s been humming along since 1967.

AccutronFront01 — Accutron 218D - the Tuning Fork watch.

The second sweep hand is a true sweep with no jerks at all as it just smoothly “sweeps” around the dial – other than that on the face of it, it looks a very traditional 60’s 70’s watch. Good size at 40mm diameter, 18mm strap or bracelet with removable spring pins to fit.

The back however isn’t a “snap” fit as this model 218D is waterproof (according to the stainless steel back) and has a stainless screwed collar that secures a separate inner plate stainless steel back. Internally there is a rubber sealing ring to ensure a watertight seal.

And here any resemblance to the “normal” watch ends – as inside looks about as different as you can get!

AccutronInside01 — 218 Accutron movement

See what I mean?

And no the image is NOT out of focus – you will note that the two little coil assemblies look out of focus, but in fact these are fitted to the ends of the “tuning fork” which are vibrating at 360 cycles every second (360Hertz). In fact you are looking at the first ever “electronic” watch.

Bulova used to guarantee their Accutrons to about 1 minute per month (or 99.9977% accurate as their sales literature used to say) which was quite astonishing in those days. So much so that it was installed as the timing device in the Telstar Satellite and used to switched off it’s beacon transmitter on July 16th 1964.

Becoming more scarce these days and nice to have one that runs. Could perhaps do with a bit of a clean but is in original condition, not restored at all, so I’m pretty pleased as it was not expensive when I picked it up on the net some time ago.

It plays a decent tune too – hum………….

Vintage Russian Alarm

A Russian watch from my vintage (2) collection (60’s to 90’s)

A gold plated Poljot “Signal” watch which is maybe from the early 1990’s (further inspection of movement could maybe pin it down more exactly).

PoljotAlarm01 — Poljot "signal" Alarm watch

Manual wind 2812.1 18 jewel movement from the First Moscow Watch Factory (1MChZ, Kirova, Poljot) with alarm complication.

The hour & minute hands and winding is managed by the crown set @4 and the surprisingly loud mechanical alarm is both wound and set anti-clockwise with the upper crown.

PoljotAlarm02 — Poljot Alarm - 18 jewels with alarm pointer

Gold plated case with stainless steel screw back with alarm off button inset into the base. The watch is 42mm lug to lug by 37mm width including the crown and 12mm depth. So quite a nice sized watch.

Overall condition is excellent, dial, crystal and plating are all really good and a few cosmetic scratches to the base near a small inset. Not shown here but this little stub contacts the end of the small anvil which is struck by the alarm striker.

The sound stub (as I call it) just comes through the case-back and assists in amplifying the sound. The alarm runs for maybe around 10-15 seconds before running down (it may manage longer but I haven’t wound it fully).

And it makes for a pretty loud alarm too (it also vibrates somewhat) – rather like a high pitched cell phone on silent ring and VERY practical (When I first got this watch I set it in the kitchen to try it and my wife heard it in the lounge next door!).

To set for a wake-up call – set the alarm the night before by pulling out the top crown – set the hour – wind it up then push in to set and that’s it.

I have to say it’s far better than most of the quartz alarm watches I have – as I frankly rarely hear the darned things with their little electronic beeps (maybe these are just for the young of hearing!)

I simply have to make a point about many of these older Russian watches in that they really are excellent quality movements and invariably keep very good time – as this one does and they are really not expensive.

Let’s face it – try finding a true mechanical alarm watch today at reasonable cost . . . . . . it is not easy!

The first image by the way shows it sporting a new Birkenstock leather strap which compliments it well and I think it looks pretty good.

There’s no doubt that I’ll be collecting a few more of these Soviet made timepieces – they are classics after all and you don’t see these designs too often. The “before the wall came down” ones are probably more collectable but all of them are certainly different.

Dugena gold

New but old Dugena

A gold plated Dugena hand wound Swiss Made model with an unusual “sunburst” heavily textured dial with Louis XV hour and minute hands.
Shown here with a Hadley USA 12K Gold Filled expanding bracelet with an alternative (last image) open ended calf leather strap..

Very unusual too are the numeral markings with black infills and signed Swiss Made. All contained in a 20 micron (Geneva) stamped two tone textured gold case, which is a better gold thickness than many watches today.
The bezel holding the glass is satin finished and the rest high polished giving a different tone effect. The back is stainless steel and also marked Swiss Made.
The case also has very small sculpted lugs which has and requires curved spring pins.

DugenaVintage04w — Sunburst dial & "grandfather" hands

Unable to get an image of the movement at the moment as the case back is very well fitted and my old Bergeon won’t shift it (I assume it screws there being no slots or apertures visible to suggest press back).

Above shows the Hadley bracelet which I fitted to see how it looked ( and it looks pretty awesome to me!) and the last image shows it with a classic Condor calf leather strap (open ended this one as it had to be very thin at the end to fit the tiny space left around the curved spring bar).
Virtually NOS condition and I have to say it is really perfect. It is also a very neat watch to wear at 34mm dia and 7.5mm depth.
Timekeeping is really good at just seconds per day which is a nice surprise – so I’ll really have to see that movement sometime

I seem to be building a collection of Dugena watches and this is my oldest one to date.

This 1950/60’s model is signed as Swiss Made which is interesting to me as in 1927 (founded 1917) they relocated their manufacturing facilities from Switzerland to Germany. The name is in fact an acronym of (Deutsche Uhrenmacher-Genossenschaft Alpina) or German Watchmaker Association Alpina. Also the Dugena brand when it started life was a actually branch of the Swiss Alpina Watch company, though it became a separate brand later.
In 1948 they relocated again because they were in the east side of the Berlin wall and set up in west Germany at Darmstadt.

So confusing to say the least – but one thing is not confusing or even uncertain – they are fine watches.

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Familiar name – Russian watch

A bit of an oldie here this time – another “vintage” watch for my collection and a first for me. A USSR made watch, rebadged in the 1960’s and sold as “Sekonda” – this was a company set up in 1966 by “Chasprom” the USSR watch industry central agency who’s remit was to sell their Russian made watches to a wider audience. And very successfully too…

I bought this as I loved the simple elegance of the dial and the fact that it is a proper USSR marked vintage watch – ie. one that was manufactured before the “wall” came down and the old Soviet regime disappeared.

Now the first thing I should say is that I am no expert on USSR watches, but managed a little research – as one does when just having bought a new “old” watch.

This watch was advertised as 1950’s I seem to recall which maybe wasn’t quite right, as if I’m not mistaken the name “Sekonda” didn’t actually appear until much later when Sekonda was established as I said previously – in 1966 in the United Kingdom and supplied USSR made watches such as the Poljot, Raketa and others – but re-badged them as “Sekonda” to a wider world market.

SekondaMoveClose2 — Classic Sekonda (Raketa) movement

So I have to assume this watch is maybe 1966 or later ( mind you pre-1966 watch movements can be found in Sekonda named watches ). Possibly dependent on available movement stock at the time I suppose.

However after digging around I think this is a type 2609 or a 2609.1 – 17 jewel movement and most likely produced in the Petrodworzowy Factory in Russia. This movement and versions of it were used in Raketa, Sim, maybe Poljot and perhaps other Russian models of the period.

It is in very good almost perfect condition and numbered 70708 but no factory stamp that I can spot without dismantling it anyway. Maybe even assembled in the Masleunikower Watch Factory where often Petro’ factory marks were omitted and sent out as “clean” models.

So far I’m unable to confirm a date. The 2609 movement series seems to have had a long usage from the late ’50’s into the ’80’s. But as said USSR watches have never been my forte and no doubt someone with far greater knowledge than I will kindly let me know.

What is certain however is the quality – which is not an issue here! In the ’50’s to late 70’s period the USSR produced watches of real high quality. In fact there are excellent Russian watches around today that are amazing value for money.

As said I particularly like this model as it has nice thin black coloured high contrast hour & minute hands, plus a centre seconds and the dial is populated with numerals with a slight italic font, thus giving the watch a very simple and clean look. It also has to my mind that English “Smiths” look – simple, understated and elegant that I have to confess I particularly like in a vintage dress watch.

The case is gold plated (marked au 20 for 20 micron I assume) and is a classic and elegant style which eminently suits the period.

There are nice touches too that you notice after handling it for a bit – like where the round case is flattened on the edge between the lugs so that the strap fits easier to the watch and the fact that the case has a neatly sculpted projection under the crown giving both support and protection – but subtly – a neat touch.

I haven’t bought any Russian watches before though am well aware that there are very keen collectors out there and with very good reason – so maybe this is a start of something new for me ….. We’ll see…!

Note – 1992 – End of Soviet Union, Chasprom disperses, privatisation of the Russian Watch Industry and Sekonda (UK) in 1993 abandoned Russian manufacturers and started to market all-Asian watch suppliers.

England’s finest

A simple and stylish English under-statement of timekeeping – a Smiths Astral gold plate Gents watch from the 1950’s.

An elegant watch indeed and with “Made in England” below the 6 makes it a rarity these days. Produced by the Smiths Watch Company in the 1950’s it shows all the best attributes of English watchmaking.
Lovely blued steel hands on a virtually unmarked clear dial plus a red filled tip centre seconds hand and with neat raised numerals – it is quite simply – a classic.

SmithsMove02 — Smiths 17 jewel lever movement with centre seconds

A neat Smiths 17 jewel hack shockproof lever movement is fitted underneath an unmarked well fitting press stainless steel back keeps this watch ticking along nicely.

Sometimes mistaken for a Jaeger LeCoultre movement, whilst it has some technical similarities it has nothing to do with that Company at all. This is a common misconception as the only link with that company was because Robert Lenoir, Smith’s Technical Director was an ex LeCoultre employee.

High quality models were manufactured at Cheltenham mostly whilst the lower market models were produced at Ystradgynlais in Wales in a joint venture with Ingersol. Usually noted by the dial inscription “Gt Britain” or “Made in Britain” – which is quite a useful way of identifying the origins of particular watch models.

So it would appear that this particular model is not a product of the Anglo-Celtic Watch Co of Wales, but from the Smiths factory at Cheltenham.
The Astral model is perhaps not top of the range or as popular as the “everest” models, but I think does represent the classic elegance of a “Made in England” watch to perfection.

This particular movement is going as strong now as when it was new. This one is a manual wound version which feels nice and strong when wound and set. Perhaps a little wear in the hand setting I admit but easily sorted should this be necessary.

The watch is also a good size at 34mm diameter without crown and 39mm top to bottom with a strap size of 18mm and in consequence wears very well –

SmithsAstral07Wrist — At 34mm diameter – a nice size for the wrist.

So another nice purchase for my “UK” – “Made in England” vintage collectors cabinet and this one will hold quite a decent position in that box.
Not a UK built or assembled watch with a Swiss movement, but an English watch built with an English movement too – and in reality a darned good one at that – so a bit unique in my opinion. AND as it happens this one is pretty much original and in superb condition – another plus.

I’m sure this one will receive quite a bit of wrist time which is always a good sign as my philosophy on watch collecting is simple – if I get it I must wear it – these watches are for wearing and every watch I own MUST work – that’s what they do best.

My next purchase though may be a little bit different. A choice of two really. One an early “electric” watch (around 1962) and the other a “direct read” watch from about the same era – a mechanical “digital” if you will and somewhat different from their more commonly seen “mystery dial” style.

I’m I’m looking forward to posting both here – so watch this space.

Titan – India’s time?

Came across this the other day – liked the look of it and it’s now in my “other watches” display box in my collection. A watch company that perhaps many here in the UK are not aware of but in India they are the largest watch manufacturer with over 7 million units sold every year! Exports to over 40 countries and the 6th largest watch producer in the world.

Many of their range are Quartz models often with Citizen or other movements but they also produce their own in-house movements and mechanical models too.

This model first introduced in 1998 is called the “FasTrack” and features a French Quartz movement which surprised me and it also surprised me with the overall quality of build.

As can be seen this is a nice sized watch at 36mm diameter and just 7mm depth it sits neatly on the wrist. Nice contrasting white hour, minute and centre seconds hand (with that super red tip) read easily against the black and dark gray face.

A red edged circular date window @4 with black numbers against a white background is large enough to be seen easily. Odd sort of minute and second chapter numerals with the outer ring showing 5, 10 to 60 @12 and the inner ring showing 10, 20 to 120 @12 seems a bit odd, but doesn’t detract from telling the time, so is of little consequence.

The case is a nice dark finish stainless steel, good knurled definition crown and stainless solid back look good. The watch also features a 50m Water Resistance indicated on the case back.

All in all a very clear watch to read which is always a bonus in a watch as neatly proportioned as this one.

The strap is a reasonably good black stitched leather one and for my smallish 170mm wrist is just about the perfect length, though may be a little short for some larger folk. It is 8 inches long and wide enough for comfort at 18mm width.

Titan02web — Solid performer, solid crown

This model came from “overstock.com” and comes with a 1 year Dealer Limited Warranty, though the Titan Guarantee is in the box and is 2 years so it looks as if they stand by their product which gives you confidence in their quality expectations.

Price-wise this watch is very affordable and you get a decent quality – albeit perhaps not a “current” range Titan model but nevertheless a good buy in my opinion.

Note – the lighting on the image opposite is a little brown looking – whilst the dial is sort of two tone it is really much darker than shown. The image above is nearer the colour.

Drawbacks? well there’s usually something – isn’t there?

In this case it is the annoying lack of luminousity – these lovely and clearly defined white hands and NO LUME!!!

This is a real shame as had it good luminous hands this watch would have been 5 star but the lack of it drops it to a 4 star – sad but true.

Perhaps a name to be considered when you’re looking for that new timepiece – IF the price is right. I say this as I’ve noticed that some of the current quartz models, certainly here in the UK are priced maybe just a bit on the high side (see the Indian prices!).

Talking of other models though – I think they have got a real winner in their “thinnest watch in the world” model, the “EDGE” – for what it is – it has to be good value even here in the UK. I mean the movement is only something like 1.5mm depth, which is amazing.

This “FasTrack” though is a nice, neat and well made product and if the “Edge” is as good or even better than this one – then it’s a winner – all the way.

Longines Quartz Swiss ETA/ESA 7j

Another dress watch finds it’s way into my modern/vintage collection. This time a neat gents Longines 20 micron Gold plated Quartz model of 1983. The model has changed since and I have to admit I find this one infinitely nicer on the eye.

Long01w — Longines gents Quartz Gold "Presence" model

I particularly like this version as it has the larger date window @3 whereas the more modern versions the date window is much smaller, though the case is still a lovely sleek and slim shape.

LongSideCart01w — Lovely Cabouchon crown

I picked up this pre-owned watch recently and very pleased too as it has very little wear. An almost perfect unmarked white dial and a nice color contrasting blue Cabochon inset to the crown. Stainless steel back again virtually unmarked.
A great feature of many Longines watches is the movement which here is a top quality Swiss ETA/ESA 7 Jewel quartz , so it is a superb timekeeper.

It came with a black padded leather strap which I personally thought did not do the watch justice – I find so many of the older watches to my mind are better suited to a non-padded flat strap and so I fitted this rather nice high quality flat brown leather stitched strap.

I think it lifts the watch to another level (a bit like the painting with a decent frame – it can make all the difference).

On the wrist it looks very elegant which is a nice complimentary description to any Longines watch and is a delight.

The dimensions are almost unisex today at 34mm diameter ex crown and 37mm lug to lug so would also suit a lady (the Longines ladies watches are considerably smaller). It is also a very clear watch to “read the time” with the slim black hands and center seconds against the white dial face. The date window being quite large is also very helpful in this respect.

This watch I think confirms my personal opinion that pre-owned watches are so often a much better buy than many a “new” watch. They are usually better value more often than not and also for me they represent a “style” and elegance that seems to have been lost today. Note – I say value – as this watch cost barely a third of the new version – and – it’s more elegant – far easier to read and is virtually as new condition.

What could be better?

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Seiko AGS vintage

This week for a change I feature a rather interesting Seiko quartz watch from the ’80’s. The Seiko AGS or Automatic Generating System Model 7M22-6A40 gents watch first appeared in 1988 and was an early automatic quartz forerunner of what’s better known now as the “Kinetic” series. It was first pioneered by Seiko in 1986 as AGM and further altered to AGS when this watch came out.

SeikoAGS8002 — Early Seiko Automatic Generating System watch

This 1988 April version has a nice white dial with Roman numerals, black coated hour and minute hands with a central gold coloured seconds sweep. A date window – black against white @6 completes the neat easily read dial and a good “Hardlex” crystal to the front. The date features a quick set on the first click of the crown. Finished in satin gold plate with matching gold coloured bracelet it looks very neat indeed. The bracelet which is very smooth to wear can accommodate up to around a 7.75″ wrist.

This particular watch shown here was a brand new Old Stock model when I got it recently and has been in storage lying dormant for over 20 years and is in absolute pristine as new condition.

So how does it work?

It works using a rotating pendulum rotor in similar fashion to the rotor in a mechanical automatic watch which is attached to a larger gear which meshes with a very small pinion. It operates on the wrist movement of the wearer and rotates via a 1/100 gearing pinion, transferring energy to a power-generator at high speed to produce an electrical current which in turn charges a capacitor (KESU) which in turn feeds the time circuits. Being one of the earliest models with a 3029110 power capacitor the full charge might last maybe 3 days or 75 hours – however, full charge takes about 800 swings of the rotor, so really has to be worn a lot to get the best capacity reserve out of it.

A feature of this early model is that the second hand operates in 2 second jumps, if the power reserve capacity drops to around 3 hours. Now, as it can take a considerable wear time and wrist movement to build up a sufficient charge, it can sometimes seem as if 2 second jumps are normal! In fact I know of a few owners who thought that was normal!
All is not lost however, as in 1990 owing to charging issues with the older capacitors, they were replaced by the newer 3023 24R capacitor (KESU) module which dramatically improved both the reliability and allowed a whopping 90 days on full charge – much better – and the 2 second warning was not in evidence.

This particular model features a 5 jewel all metal 7M22A movement, which is all metal and before plastic parts is actually better than some modern watches.

The dimension of this watch is very compact for an AGS or Kinetic watch and measures 40mm top to bottom and side to side (without crown) just 35mm. Back to front is just 9.5mm and with a 28mm diameter crystal. Quite neat and unobtrusive and quite dressy and I have to say it looks very good on the wrist.

SeikoBack01 — AGS 7M22A 5 jewel movement

In this image you can see both the rotor and the capacitor, which is a Panasonic MT920 (2.4v) at the left. The watch serial number follows the Seiko numbering system with first digit 8 denoting 1998 and the 4 for April. The next 4 digits represent the model number in that month. Quite useful to see such an unusual and Seiko historic movement mechanism and note the cal. number etc. You can also hear the rotor operating though once against the wrist it’s almost inaudible.

So an unusual model and factually a milestone in Seiko watch terms. This one is in fantastic condition even after just over 20 years since it first came out.

I suppose if I was honest that capacity charging efficiency was low with this original concept. In fact the 2 second jumps can appear all too easily, especially if you take the watch off at night, or if you wear your watches in rotation and leave it in the watch display box for a month. It just takes far too long to get it up and running at full tick, as it were.
But it CAN be changed and upgraded fairly easily and I have the newer replacement capacitor ready to fit.

Anyway not withstanding the above – it’s still an intriguing and to my mind, a historically significant watch and a nice addition to my collection.

February 2015 – update – I changed the capacitor. (however, after 10 years I replaced it as it barely functioned).

So, today I have updated and edited the previous report as follows –

June 18th 2025 – I have just now replaced the power unit with a new 3023 24R which is a direct fit.

Note how the original capacitor "appears" smaller than the replacement. — Note how the original capacitor “appears” smaller than the replacement.

Note, it’s a bit misleading when you look at the previously installed capacitor via the exhibition glass back, as the visible top part (negative) of the capacitor is of smaller diameter than the positive side (see image).

Important note – when removing the new capacitor from it’s small blister pack, do not touch it with your fingers, either use nitrile gloves or similar or plastic tweezers. Also don’t be tempted to check it with a voltmeter as this could cause issues.

Anyway, my procedure – I removed the screw case back. Once inside, you can optionally removed the rotor for easier access, or continue as I have without. I found last time it was possible and I’m always wary when re-tightening any rotor screw.

The capacitor is recessed and before you can take it out you have to remove two small screws holding the top plate surround. Using tweezers take off the top plate and underneath there is a small brown insulator gasket. Carefully lift it off from it’s tiny locating points. Take note – don’t pull it, as it is located under the spot welded yellow metal capacitor plate on the left side, but above the wider plate on the right.

However, as I always do, prior to working on it, I take close up pictures of the whole thing in situ, so I can refer to them if I get the orientation wrong.

Note the top side of the capacitor has a smaller diameter than the bottom. — Note – the gasket sits **under** the left of the yellow plate and sits on top at the right. Always take photos before to assist in re-assembly.

Fitting the new one is the reverse of the process and once all done up again, in my case, it immediately started. With full tick. Once fully charged it should get at least 30 days and perhaps 60 days as the 90 days quoted may be over optimistic.

(NOTE – if you have removed the rotor, do make sure you screw the rotor back carefully – tight enough to hold, but not too tight – if slack, the rotor is ineffective).

AGS is called Kinetics now and the science has moved on somewhat since 1986 and whilst Seiko had a Kinetic collection, this was ended in 2020.

However, I believe kinetic might still be available in their Premier range, though I have heard that as of May this year 2025, these may also be discontinued.

It seems that Spring Drive has replaced the whole kinetic idea – check Seiko main web site for details.

As ever – things move on . . . . .