The Terra Cotta (Swatch)

I suppose Swatch watches are known more for their very affordable, reliable and good quality Swiss Quartz models, which started off life back in 1983 as a result of the Quartz revolution, basically from Asia and the inherent danger to the Swiss mechanical models at that time. A response was required and hence the Swatch appeared – sometimes referred to, or maybe popularly called, the Second Watch or SWatch. A model that was colourful, very affordable and also very reliable and with great Swiss Quartz timekeeping too.

However, back in the early days Swiss watches really were famous for mechanical movements, not Quartz, so a few years after the Swatch revolution, for that’s what it was, they also produced Swatch watches with mechanical movements, manual and automatic and always of a dependable high quality.

The Terra Cotta (SAK402) is part of Swatch’s “Original Automatic” family, a legacy watch if you will, which appeared in 1996, and this one completely original – with a very decent 23 jewel automatic Swiss movement. This is visible through the full “exhibition” clear back. The plastic case is 36.7mm diameter which is a rarity in itself and not a case size currently available.

On the dial, there’s a neat viewable Date indicator, via a wheel and pointer arrangement, that just sets it apart from the mainstream. And yes, a simple change to the more common date window, but rather nice, as viewing it, you can sort of confirm your place in the month.

The red coloured centre seconds hand, defines it’s movement heritage, as it doesn’t tick each second as a quartz movement does, but rather has a smoother “sweeping” motion, with a smooth rapid tick.

Terra Cotta – 23 jewel Swiss Auto movement.

The original strap on this model is of red leather (not plastic), which rather compliments the dial colour and although a bit frayed now, is still OK to wear. I like that as it shows this watch was wrist worn and loved – and to me, this means it was a “daily beater” for the owner and that’s a big plus in my book.

This one may well have been a “home buddy” as it came by way of Zurich in Switzerland and now it’s on the travel trail with me. Though later this year it’ll be back in it’s old stomping ground, as I tend to visit the middle countries of Europe every year. There are no better places for good watch hunting, new or pre-owned.

These were and still are produced in amazing colours and styles and most were Water Resistant, even the Quartz models with their small “hatch” fit battery.

The cases were made of light weight plastic, so almost unnoticeable on the wrist, were it not for the bright colourways they use in an almost infinite range of patterns and dials. Today they often use “Bio materials”, allegedly more kind to the planet, but the philosophy remains the same. And movement wise, so confident are they these days, some movements are completely case sealed – no repairs possible – and in the rare event it stops, throw it away and get another one.

While I’m on about Swatch, I checked out another model that came to my notice, though tempted, have not bought (yet?)

SwatchOverTheWaves – odd title, but that’s Swatch Quartz for you.

This is the SwatchOverTheWaves, a diver style Quartz powered model – with an amazing 200m Water Resistance. I just love the colour combinations, which seem to work very well.

It will certainly be seen as a statement piece either in or out of the water!

Typical Swatch Quartz battery hatch. Note water resistance of 200M

So, whatever the reason Swatch are still managing to produce affordable models, both quartz and mechanical, in amazing colours and styles and most, believe it or not, are indeed Water Resistant, which I find surprising with that small “hatch” rear fit battery.

A success story no doubt and when you might assume a high price for a Swiss watch, these are very, very affordable. They’ve not only managed to compete but some would say surpassed that original fear in the early 1980’s that they would be over-run, by this new cheap technology.

Not so – and in my opinion, Swiss watches still reign supreme. In fact it’s a delight to browse through the current and vintage ranges available today as there’s always something new – and something you can afford!

Note – If you need to change a Swatch strap, make sure you get the correct size and remember they are not held in by “spring bars”. Swatch straps are sometimes measured (but not always) from the outside edge of the outer strap loops or between the outer edge of the case lugs.
However, it is fact that straps can also be measured simply at the widest part, where it meets the case – so be very careful which method is used by the retailer.

To remove the strap, you need a small pointer, such as the small round end of a watch strap removal tool (or Swatch’s own tool) – make sure it’s a slightly smaller diameter than the “straight pin” which will slide through the case lug, the centre case lugs and the strap’s three loops – then gently, from one end, push out the pin. Either use pliers or the Swatch tool to grab the other end and finally pull it out.
Note, I said ‘gently’ – It is important especially if a vintage Swatch watch as if it has a plastic case, it may be brittle, so could easily crack, so don’t force it, but gently does it. Once the pin is out, put the new strap in position, then ‘gently’ push in the pin again. You may have to wiggle the strap slightly as you push it into place, through the first plastic case lug, then the two guides covering the centre of the strap – all in a line, then into the last case lug. Make sure the pin is not protruding and that should be it.

You can also see how to manage this on many U tube videos – such as this one – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6wj95R9BXE

BUT – word of warning –
When it comes to an old vintage Swatch model (such as the Terra Cotta) , the original strap fitting with the trademark 3 x loops lug fitting may be similar – it could be smaller.
And the issue here is, that newer strap loops are larger and wider and may NOT line up or fit in with the original case/lug separations. They are also much thicker at the lug end, than vintage ones, so even if you managed to cut/modify the new strap to fit, so you could refit the retaining lug pin – it could look oversize and clumsy.
In the case of my Terra Cotta here – I’m fortunate the original strap has still got a bit of life in it, so I will not be trying to change it any time soon.
(another option of course is to find a true vintage Swatch for a cheap price and if it has a decent strap – consider swapping the strap)
Anyway, if it does fall apart – I’ll look at my options then and not before.

Mystery Fiction

A few years ago I came across the Fugue Fiction One watch. Fugue was a French start up brand looking for crowd founding, who had initially prototyped a couple of models that looked rather good. And being prototypes, the prices quoted were VERY low indeed, especially considering the high quality of the models being projected.

To remain afloat, this start up got involved in crowd funding, which in my view always seems a dodgy concept. If no-one’s interested, then investors can be few and far between. And if that is the case you tend to sink, not float. And so it was – even after 2 crowd funding attempts they were unable to meet the finance they looked for.

And now one of the quite rare prototypes is now on my wrist – and I am very pleased about that.

This was their second model – a great watch and for all sorts of reasons. I mean, basically, what’s not to like? Especially now that it is one of a very few around. They made two different coloured dials – this is the lighter less contrasting one.

To start with it’s a Mystery dial watch (tricky to do well, I may add), then there’s a good automatic movement. It’s also very well made and a nice sensible size with excellent quality materials used throughout – plus a very decent flexible black calf leather strap – and very comfortable to wear.

The thing about “mystery dials” is the fact that they make you wonder how the hands are connected. Vintage watches from various makers sometimes used this feature. The most obvious were the models that showed the minute hand attached to the central spindle, with the “mystery” hour hand in the background painted or applied to a disc, so giving the illusion of not being connected to anything. Some were overly elaborate, using discs for both hour and minute hands but often difficult to read.

The Fiction One however is both simple and clever and beautifully designed. It also uses discs, but one is fully transparent and really does give the illusion that both minute and hour hands are “floating”.
It is VERY easy to read. The transparent disc, which has the minute hand inscribed, plus a third clear thicker disk allows a subtle depth separation between the hour hand on it’s opaque disc – thus giving it that “mystery” floating effect.

The images taken today show how clear this watch is to read the time.

Note the omission of any seconds hand, which makes it slightly tricky to set the time exactly – (basically use another watch/internet or iPad/iPhone whatever and push in the crown on the hour is easiest) in fact you have to look at it carefully to see if it’s actually working. Mind you it’s odds on it will be, as the movement is the Sellita SW200-1 elabore, a model I have on some other watches and it is a VERY reliable automatic, being based on the ETA2824-2 (minus the date configuration). It beats at 28,000 beats per hour and has a reserve of around 38hrs.

The dial has a real quality finish to it, from the luminous applied markers to the perfectly integrated transparent discs. Complimented by the wonderfully sculpted hands with Super-luminova – it’s a quality watch.

The case is stainless steel, lightly brushed on the top surfaces and highly polished on the sides. It is also obvious that the case has been hand finished and it has a flow to it, from case body to lugs, which is a homage, if you will, to their first watch model – the Chronostase, which featured a modular case with a removable inner case (on ball bearings), which I don’t have, but would not be averse to having, if one came up for sale.

The fugue Fiction 1 Water Resistance (tested) is 5ATM, but the crown is not a screw down variety.
The clear crystal is Sapphire, as is the clear back window, which shows the movement in more detail. The watch dimensions are 38mm diameter x 46mm lug to lug and just 11.1mm thickness according to my micrometre, with the strap measuring 18mm width.

So, all in all, this is a really great watch so wear.
It has an amazingly comfortable strap, which seems “run in”, as they say and is both flexible and soft on the wrist. It is a model that is the perfect size, it’s unobtrusive, yet with the cleverly designed take on the “Mystery dial” being done so well, it’s just about as perfect an example of the concept you could get.

Alas, it seems that the Fugue Fiction 1 is now a rarity and no longer, which is a mystery (the Agatha Christie inspiration for the watch) – as it really is a classic in it’s own right – and I’m so glad to be the proud owner of one.

And yet again – Swatch

Forgot to Post this one the other day – purely as I like the look of it. Very modern, colourful and OK for size.

This is the Rouge and Noir (red and black) Bio-ceramic Quartz model SO32B401-STD. Black case with a Matte red strap, loop and buckle in ceramic bio etc, so nice and light.
It has a vibrant dial/face in white with black print and rather sudden multi-coloured hands. I like the overhang style of the bright yellow centre seconds , short enough not to confuse when reading the time, but very noticeable as a mobile seconds reference.

You certainly know the watch is working!

Swatch Rouge and Noir quartz on the wrist

The Water resistance is as usual fairly minimal standard at 3Bar, so splashes are OK, but don’t jump in the shower with it and the dimensions are perfect for most folks at 41mm, 9.85 depth and lug/lug at 47mm. You don’t need extra size to see this watch!

I really like the overall look of this model – the colours work great – no neon though (they have these too) which I personally find overpowering, but great to look at on the wrist.

The strap fitting is the Swatch format, so not that easy to change unless you go to Swatch for a replacement. However, it can be done with a simple silicon strap IF you’re prepared to fiddle and cut an bit – I’ve done it in the past (I have a Post on it somewhere) and I was very successful with my efforts.

Anyway, I digress – this model very OK priced at £82.00 – and includes free postage (UK) and I have to say I’m rather tempted.
I find it a bit surreal that this model is part of what they call the 1984 reloaded collection – so even though Swatch started in 1983 or whenever, this is a retro model! Maybe I’m just getting old! 😉

Update – Here are some images of the actual watch, taken today 18th –

Note the back of the watch and the proprietary Swatch battery hatch and the text quoting the battery type, which is always useful, so you can order one before taking the old one out, which is sensible. However, a silicon strap for me, might have been preferable to the bio stuff, which feels a bit plasticky, though it is flexible.

All in all, though – a nice little colourful watch though I’d caution that care has to to taken with bio material – feel is important and tricky to get right.

Swatch again

Every so often, maybe every year or so, I tend to look at what Swatch have in store. They are, after all a unique brand of timepiece that on many levels just works.
So much so that I have a few myself, even though I would at one time balked at the idea of plastic cases and straps, some transparent too and with a pretty decent quartz movement plus an easy fit/replace battery. Now the plastics are being replaced with bio-sourced materials and many are so light weight it’s easy to forget you have one on your wrist.

A couple I noted this time are a little bit different.

First is the SO34G700, a green cased one from what’s called the “What if “ from the bio-ceramic range. And this one breaks tradition a bit as it’s square.

It’s quartz and it comes in a very green formed case – bio-ceramic of course, as is the glass and strap, though not the buckle. Officially the bulk of this model is both ceramic and bio-sourced and all a bit beyond me, but I quite like it. The Water Resistance if perhaps a bit minimal at 2Bar, but par for the course with these.

A big plus for this model though is the face or dial. It’s big and it’s clear, so no specs needed AND it shows the Day and the Date @3 and has what is termed “glow” hands, so presumably you should see the time in the dark. It also has a sweep seconds hand, which is always useful.

The watch size is 41.80mm and 10.50mm depth and as I say – it is Square. The glass is also square and with enough bulk to almost read the indices from the side.
Note on the back (not shown here) is an image of a round faced dial on the battery cover. Not sure why.
Whilst I don’t have many square watches in my collection, this one is different and modern enough to warrant my attention. So, I could be tempted, maybe.

However, at £91.00 it’s perhaps not the cheapest, but that said, not the dearest either, so the choice is yours.

The second model I’ve spotted is quite different – this is the “Blue Away” SO28K700-S14, from the Swatch Essentials category, which is again all bio, though the case this time is transparent, with a contrasting blue silicon strap, with plastic buckle. The dial is also blue with contrasting coloured hour, minute and sweep seconds hands.

It also features a Day and Date window@3 and this time marginally more Water resistant at 3Bar and the watch size is considerably

smaller than the first watch featured here. Just 34mm, 8.75mm depth and 39.20 lug to lug, with the almost traditional Swatch 3 pronged strap fitting.
The dial features a nice colour combination, which again is very easy to read.

This model comes in at a very respectable £64.00 and wears as a very neat and compact watch on the wrist.

I rather like it.

So another look at what personally takes my interest in the Swatch world. Probably not to other’s taste, who knows. But once again Swatch comes up with new ideas, in what are very affordable, Swiss made quartz accuracy – their philosophy seems to work as they’re still around.

Till next time . . . . . .

Smart Health H-Band EP03

Most folks who regularly check out my web site, are probably aware that I am no lover of “smart” watches. This is because I don’t particularly like the idea of a device that sits there and duplicates what you’re doing on your cell phone. Usually as both the “smarty” and the Cell, are only about a foot or so apart, so doesn’t make a lot of sense to me. Then there is the battery life, which as a mechanical and quartz watch collector, I see as almost always laughable. Now where IS that damned charger?

But recently, after a few heart scares, I looked around and checked out some of the models that tell you something about your health. I wanted one that was more geared towards health than so called fitness.

I eventually decided on this “health” model – and it’s surprisingly good. I have seen the same software and App with other names and a few different watch models and shapes too, but this is the one I got.

It’s the H Band EP03 and whilst it has the ubiquitous and rather bland, black rectangular look, the stuff inside is actually pretty useful and the display is outstanding.

And no, I am NOT taking up jogging!

First and foremost, it tells the time and the 5 or so choices on the watch are enough for me (they have others). I picked one that was big and clear (as main pic above) and swiping left or right leads you to the main functions, health-wise and I show here some of the display views.

Coupled to this is the App (I have iPad) which gives a comprehensive detail and interpretation of any results. It certainly does a lot more than the classic pump your arm up and read the basic dial of my old Boots unit.

Incidentally I got it on the 8^th and the battery is still going after a week – they quote around 15 days standby? It’s charged via a tiny magnetic fool-proof connection to a USB thingy- and takes about 4 hours I think to charge.

My selected ‘Watch dial’ – shows the time, the day, my last manual pulse check figure and also the number of steps so far for the current day. Basic stuff I know, but that’s fine for me. Swipe it to the right or left and we’re on to the other functions. And Up takes you to some other options and Down to messages/emails etc.
There’s the usual Pedometer with Step numbers, Calories burnt and Distance covered, if you’re into that, though quite useful, especially as I’m on a diet and needing some exercises to assist.

Cycling (sorry) through the next few swipes in order – and note the watch runs and records all the time on most functions – you get constant readings of Pulse and Blood Pressure, Blood Glucose, Blood oxygen, Body temperature, Sleep patterns (constant at night) and the weather (local using your location). You can run an ECG (there is a sensor plate on the left side of the watch) and in addition it has a chest sticker and lead to assist too, if more detail is required.

But you can manually do all the above ON the watch itself.

It’s as easy as swipe the dial through the different tests and either press the screen or the arrow and that’s pretty much it.

The App I have discovered (I have iPad and iPhone) has an amazing amount of detail versus the basic test figures shown on the dial and has some really detailed analysis data. I don’t think you can print these out – but I took a screen shot of some of the data pages and it works for me.

You can of course add notifications for all today’s media stuff (Facebook, Twitter, Snapchat and all that stuff – none of which I subscribe to, but also phone messages, email, alerts and lots of things I’ve never heard of!
I’ve got notification of emails, which I confess was handy as a reminder to check my email!

But all the main stuff is easy to see, easy to use and gives comprehensive data to reassure you that are still alive! Though in my case, at times – just!

I tend to wear it all day until I have bath at night, then wear it again before bed, then repeat the next day etc.

Blood Pressure and Pulse accuracy –

Now this has always been a bit contentious according the folk who know and all I can do is to use it, then compare both BP and Heart Rate against my Boots upper arm cuff Unit, which IS accurate.

It is fact that wrist cuffs as opposed to upper arm cuffs give different readings. The wrist cuffs are roughly +5% higher for Systolic and around +10% for Diastolic readings. Basically this is owing to positioning (wrist is lower than upper arm).

I have found that this unit, which uses an Optical sensor system is around +5% for Systolic and +10/12%% Diastolic and for BP is just about on par with the Boots Unit.
The instructions say that for BP and Pulse readings, the wrist should be palm down and level with the heart for best results Knowing this you can have a reasonably accurate set of measurements. And when sleeping, the figures are possibly more accurate, being on the same horizontal plane.

As to the App – this is surprising – as it interprets the data and gives an assessment based on the overall readings over 24 hours – and that is very useful.
In fact, it can show you issues that are either pre-existing or factors you might be advised to see your Doctor about – you never know.

The analysis of the recorded data is quite remarkable and could pick up heart anomalies, of which you may not be aware. Heart Rate readings are taken every 5 minutes from midnight to 07.00am and present in groups of 5 readings usually, which gives an excellent indicator during sleep. Also Blood Pressure is taken constantly over the 24 hour period. You can review these on the App, as it stores 3 days readings, so you can get a good idea of how you’re doing.
It also checks out your heart health Index, which surprisingly is 72 for me, which is in the normal range (60 – 100 is in the normal range). There is also a very interesting analytical reading displayed as the Lorentz Scatter diagram, which can give indications as to your heart wellbeing.

So overall a pretty comprehensive set of checks and analysis – all on your wrist. Clever stuff indeed.

However, as with all these new and available to all systems and software – if in doubt – see you Doctor. Remember that medical checking and monitoring equipment used by the professionals are checked for accuracy regularly. (this unit, you buy and use at your own discretion).

Sleep pattern – discovered mine wasn’t great and could be a LOT better and as a result, I’ve modified my life habits accordingly, and to my benefit I have to admit. Now my deep sleep has increased and I feel fitter and have a little bit more energy.

Pedometer – Well, I don’t subscribe to the 12,000 steps a day rubbish it suggested I should do for optimum health (at my age?).
I say this as in the News recently, the latest science says- maybe 5,000 steps – but the current medical view seems to suggest 2500 steps is acceptable to keep joints and muscles working reasonably well. And at my age, well, I do what I can do (I have set 2500 as my goal).

But I’m impressed with this ‘device’ (wow! That’s a modern expression for me) as it does what I want it to do, clearly and easily.

(I understand it can also do routes and fitness programs IF needed, because it has a GPS function – I mean it also gives our local weather – AND it is very local and accurate, which surprised me!

But for simplicity it’s great, because that’s what I want. I use it purely for the basic heath stuff and for that I have to give it 5 stars.

It also didn’t break the Bank at under £60, so it was worth giving it a shot. And I’m pleased I did. And it has a Water Resistance spec to IP67, so if you’re caught in the rain or if you dunk it in the sink, you should be OK. There’s no facility on the App, as far as I can see, to Print the data, but you can “share” data – which seems to be an image file of the selected App screen results, to email or any other App that will accept it – so you could print that.

But, don’t let this thing rule your life – I know a couple who do everything with their ‘device’ and some of what they do, seems distinctly unhealthy to me!

But hey! They’re young!

However I’ll repeat what I wrote earlier – As with all these new and available to all systems and software – if in doubt – see you Doctor.
Remember that medical monitoring equipment used by medical professionals are checked for accuracy regularly (whereas, this unit, you buy and use at your own discretion).

For me though, I like this little unit. It gives an insight into your general health and a general set of clues as to how you are doing – and that has to be good.

Note – This review updated 26/08/2023 – added “share” info. Unit is working flawlessly and I’m working too! not flawlessly, but OK for me.

Farer (UK design) Swiss watch

Nice to come across the British independent watch designer Farer, who feature a range of new high quality Swiss Made models, of which two have my interest. Both feature cushion shaped cases, which can be very attractive and a move away from the ubiquitous round cases. Sometimes this shape doesn’t attract, but in the case of Farer, they most certainly do.

The first one is the manual wind ‘Durham’ Cushion model of which there are 4 different styles, with various dial and strap colours. Each is beautifully configured with high quality cut dials and a 316 stainless steel cushion shaped case. This has a tan strap, but there are other ones available.

The case in a neat size at 38.5 mm diameter and slim too at just 10.5 mm. A running seconds sub dial @6, which is indented and great contrasting black ‘Dauphine’ hour and minutes hands make for a very stylish look. The curved Sapphire crystal has multi-layered Anti-reflective coatings on the inside, compliments by a Sapphire crystal exhibition back. The strap fitting is 20 mm and the Water Resistance is 5 ATM, so from a WR view, it is a dress watch.

The movement is a Sellita SW216- 1 24 jewel Elabore grade manual wind, 28,000 vpl with a 45 hour reserve once fully wound.
Made in Switzerland by Ruventa Henex who supply Private Label movements and a highly respected manufacturer.

This model is priced at £895, so perhaps for some a little pricey, but for the quality and styling, for me it represents good value.

The second model that really takes my fancy is the titanium series Aqua Compressor Endevour 11, with a slightly different profiled cushion case style. This tough Titanium grade 11 is also very light weight at just 62 grams.

Note – More information on the Compressor grade Titanium case is on their web site –

The Dive Compressor, Reinvented.

This model has a serious Water resistance rating of 300m and features the Sellita SW200-1 26 jewel Automatic movement, which I’ve met before on some very good watches. And known as a great reliable movement.

The Endevour is slightly larger at 41 mm diameter and 12.5 mm depth, but still neat as modern day watches go and it features a double domed Sapphire crystal, again with multi-layer Anti-reflective coating on the internal surface.

The dial this time is designed for great clarity in poor light and underwater, with wide hour and minute hands and a centre sweep split seconds hand seen against a black light absorbing matte surface. The dial bezel is internal – but the images speak for themselves.

Price is £995 – which for high quality Brit design (Swiss Made) is pretty decent value in my book. Might be tempted myself!

With a guarantee of 5 years on all their movements plus a 30 day (if you don’t like it – return it – in unworn as new condition of course). What’s not to like.

FM202 Dome watch

The Feice FM202 Automatic is another model from my affordable mechanical automatics, which has an interesting look. Simple white face on which rotates blue hands. Hours, minutes and seconds, Plus a Power Reserve indicator, so you know, how long it has to run – without either simply keeping it on your wrist, or winding it – your choice.

The Power Reserve is 35 hours or there about. Note too, this is also a hacking movement.

The movement is an automatic mechanical, 28 jewel (possibly SeaGull), which can be viewed via the transparent case back. Now a few years back, on a budget, I would have much preferred a Miyota (Citizen) movement, as early SG and other Chinese movements suffered from poorly finished parts (pallet fork, escape wheel etc.) and often lacked proper lubrication. Quality control was not the best. However, today I now have a few watches featuring SeaGull power units and to date, have had no issues with any of them. As to the accuracy, these appear to be on a par with most of their competitors. In fact, there are a few Chinese manufacturers (Lioaning Peacock, Memorigin & others) that in recent years have had freedom to go their own way and really improved in both design and quality.

As to this particular watch model, it has to date, performed well, and certainly as good any other in my affordable and mid priced collection of mechanical autos.

The case is 316 stainless steel, 42mm diameter and 11mm thick with 20mm wide lugs, so it takes a decent strap on conventional spring-bars – therefore easy to swap, should you so wish. Also the finish quality is OK, so no complaints on that score either.

On the bright dial, the upper sub-dial @12, indicates the Power Reserve, the lower sub, the running seconds and date window are @6 and all can be seen very clearly through the rather fascinatingly named ‘2.5D Arc Hyperbolic Mirror dome’ crystal, which apparently is both scratch and wear resistant, which, so far, seems to be true.
Note – the Mirror Dome crystal tends to make the watch appear a little thicker cased, than it actually is.

Water Resistance is rated 30m, typical dress watch and basically means splashes (always sounds better than it is), though this is another story, where Official classification tests citing these descriptions can seem quite misleading, if you’re not into these things. In other words, use it as a daily beater in normal circumstances by all means, but don’t go swimming with it, ‘cos it might not manage that too well. The standard ‘swimming’ classification is rated 50m and it should be remembered that these are based on static laboratory tests and not in the real world.

For further information a good explanation of Water Resistance ratings can be accessed here – https://blog.crownandcaliber.com/what-does-water-resistance-in-watches-mean/

On the wrist at 42mm diameter – the maximum for me.

This model version came with a rather hard leather and stainless deployment mechanism, which for me is usually good reason for change. This deployment convertor like many has an annoying fact, in that it makes the strap stick out from the wrist – thus making it look clumsy and likely to catch under a shirt cuff, and the first (fixed) strap keeper is so close to the mechanism, it gets me fiddling around to unclasp the thing. Now there are much neater deployment mechanisms around, so this was disappointing.

Calf leather strap replacement – neater than original deployment.

But easy to fix with standard lugs, and I’ve fitted a nice Birkinstock supple calf leather buckle strap and the watch is, in my opinion, much the neater for it (as shown).

Overall however and swimming limitations aside, this model is a rather good looking watch. It certainly has a look that’s a bit different It works well and if you like this look and it’s not to big for you at 42mm diameter, then it’s not a bad choice – and it is reasonably affordable.

Addendum – I forgot to say, I already briefly mentioned this watch in my “Elegant watches” page some time ago, but said little about it – well I liked the look of it so much – I bought one – so consider a closer look as done.

Thoughts – After wearing this watch for a while, I realised it has something much, much more than just the look, though the soft calf strap in combination, has a definite comfort factor, there’s more.
The fact is, I just love wearing it and I mean this in a way that’s difficult to explain. But I’m wearing it alternatively with my daily beater (Breitling Aerospace) of the last 20 years, that is the FM202 during the day and later I change to the Breitling, basically as I like a luminous watch when it gets dark. It’s that good and certainly this doesn’t happen very often – if ever. I can say no more!

Junkers – revival & update

I have a small collection of Junkers watches and as with other brands I like, every so often I check out their newest offerings, basically to see what improvements or otherwise have been added.

The Junkers Tante JU52 Automatic is one such model that has interested me since it first appeared and today’s version is no exception with that wonderfully figured “ribbed” dial so reminiscent of the Junkers aircraft.

The quality is really outstanding with its superb satin finish solid stainless steel case and Sapphire crystal, through which can be seen the clear, high contrast dial layout. The corrugated dial background with a decent sized date aperture @3, beautifully shaped Dauphinois hour and minute hands complete with Superluminova luminous in-fills are impressively clear to read (the hands are made in France). A long beautifully tapered black centre seconds hand travels majestically around the clearly defined perimeter index. Strongly defined black numerals complete the dial layout, which is signed, Made in Germany at the foot.

Junkers J52 Automatic 24 jewel movement — Junkers JU52 Automatic 24 jewel movement

Note the crown is well protected and additionally has two what appear blanking plates either side, perhaps a dual purpose case arrangement, and Water Resistance is rated as 100m – the overall look to the case however is one of solidity. The back is an exhibition windowed stainless steel screwed back plate, through which you can see the excellent 24 jewel automatic signed Pointec movement. Dimensions are a neat 40mm diameter x 12 mm and the lug to lug is short enough that this model fits the smaller wrist very well. The strap is a really high quality calf leather with two thicknesses, allowing it to be supportive near the case and yet allow flexibility at the buckle – something others should take note of, as all too often thick leather straps can be overly clumsy at the buckle fixing.

Junkers Tante Automatic leather strap with bespoke buckle.

The high quality leather strap, which is quite soft, has an unusual flat twin pin buckle and is one of the most comfortable straps I’ve ever owned.

Another feature is in the wearing. It is one of those watches that for whatever reason, just feels right on the wrist, it is extremely comfortable and a delight to wear and certainly makes me interested in enlarging my Junkers collection. It has also rekindled my love of German brand watches, which seem to have undergone a bit of a revival over the last few years – and I confess to perhaps overlooking them. But no longer, as I will feature a few more in future Posts I’m sure in the not too distant future.

Addendum – 21st July 2021

Well here we are some 6 years on and the Junkers Tante is as good as it was when I bought it. It runs as smooth as silk and as I said in the original Post, it is such a nice watch to wear. Presently, my preferred watch on the wrist for the foreseeable few weeks at least.

Interesting is the inspiration for this watch, which was from the Junkers Ju52/3m aircraft, first produced back in 1930. The designer, Ernst Zindal, used a highly controversial corrugated duralumin metal skin, as a strengthening measure and it was very striking indeed. This is shown in nice detail on the dial. The aeroplane was known both as Iron Annie and Aunt Ju, hence the name of this watch model “Tante” (Aunt in German).

Classic Expedition update July ’21

An early vintage digital Expedition Timex is featured in this post, dated around 1998 (80 M745) in pretty decent all round condition. The digital display is clear and basically as good as the day it was bought. Classed as a Chronograph model the features are more or less what you get in the current Expedition models.

1998 Timex Expedition digital display normal daylight.

Digital display wise – Standard view is along the lower part, hours, minutes and seconds plus an AM/PM indicator and the upper part shows Day, Month and Date. Using the lower left pusher or “mode”, this changes the display in turn to Chronograph (with slit/lap timing), Alarm, Timer (100hrs) and 2nd Time Zone, in that order. This model also features a 12/24hr display option and an Hourly Chime. It has a night light (Indiglo) using the top left pusher which is on as long as the pusher is pressed. All setting is done using the lower right pusher and the top right pusher selects Alarm on or off etc. So quite familiar really to anyone used to using these digital display watches. Note in the images shown here the display shows grey background and black numerals when light is not being reflected off it, however its almost fluorescent when the light strikes at some angles and then appears very high contrast green background with black numerals.

Timex digital display in reflecting light - gives fluorescent contrast — Timex digital display in reflecting light – gives fluorescent contrast

In most conditions it’s pretty good though as most of these, the top data can be slightly over-shadowed by the black surround of the watch face. Still featured on some current watches, though I note many now have a visible face area wider than the numerals, so avoiding any possibility of shadows.

It’s a very neat watch at 39mm diameter and only 9mm depth, so a good bit smaller than current Expedition models. It has spring bars so you can fit any standard strap to it, though it actually measures a slightly non standard, but gettable, 19mm width. I have a Timex “E” quick wrap strap fitted and it is perfect and comfortable.

Timex Expedition on the wrist - very neat. — Timex Expedition on the wrist – very neat.

In a dark almost black resin case, light grey bezel with printed pusher data, the back has a stainless steel plate secured by 4 x corner screws and has it has 100m Water Resistance.

1998 v 2012/13 - watches are getting bigger. — 1998 v 2012/13 – watches are getting bigger.

Some of the older Timex models like this one, for me, are often nicer to wear than the present offerings. Only 15 years before the current stuff (an age in electronics of course) the displays funnily enough tended to be neater, as are the watches which were smaller and slimmer and yet managed to portray the excitement of the new Digital age without bulk or large knurled or knobbly bits here and there. They were and still are science fiction in a way, because they’re ground breaking and the core function and the attraction of the watch is not obscured by too much over the top and perhaps unnecessary Dr Who extravagance. Note this model has a battery life of around 6.5 years.

I might yet add more to my digital collection, though perhaps it could be more appropriate to call it my Timex collection, as I seem to be acquiring more of these by the week! Whatever – I’m sure it won’t be the last!

UPDATE – 4th August 2014

Started to get a little erratic this morning and I decided to check out and hopefully replace the battery – assuming this was the problem. Removed the 4 back screws and realized this was a different style of module that I am used to. The center part is a round cover which is actually clipped on to the very large CR2016 battery! The cover is held down by 3 screws to the module board. Simply removed these and un-clipped the battery from the cover once it was in my hand. Replaced the battery by clipping the cover over it, then dropped the cover and battery assembly on to the board, lining up the 3 screw holes and screwed it back in place. Writing on the cover says to “press this” to reset after battery change, referring I think to small metal contact on the module. However on turning the watch over I saw that the digits were indicating fine, so skipped that instruction. Replaced the back of the watch and set the time data. All functions are working perfectly now including the back light, which actually was the first problem I saw prior to replacing the battery. Instead of lighting, it indicated code and altered the time setting to 12:00. This I suspected was the lack of power – hence the battery change today. It took me about 10 minutes start to finish.

Sorry I didn’t think to take photographs, but suffice to say it was very easy to manage.

UPDATE – 16th July 2021

Well here we are some 7 years later after the last battery change. The watch is still working perfectly, display showing just great and a testament to the longevity of this classic Timex Expedition watch. The only thing I had to do was correct the day from the 18th to the 16th (today) and re-adjust the time slightly – it was 5 minutes fast – which is not bad after 7 years from an early quartz.

Classic Timex Expedition still going strong.

Through and through.

My previous experience with a skeleton watch was some years ago (long gone now) and have to say, it just never lived up to my expectation. Mostly because the whole dial was so taken up with a trellis style frame, which held the movement in place, I struggled a), to see the movement properly and b), to make out the time.

Now OK, I get the point that the function is really to show the inner, rather than the outer, but that particular watch, just didn’t do it for me. You don’t need a frame holding the movement getting in the way and with a solid a minute/hour index around the circumference, again obscuring the view, then it’s not really skeleton at all.

But, as with the nature of the beast – as they say – skeleton is skeleton.

However, the watch in my opinion has to look good and different too, so design has to be an important consideration. I’ve also seen so called skeleton models with quartz movements, where quartz and movement are for me a contradiction in terms – the only moving parts being the hands and maybe a cogwheel? which seems hardly worth the effort.

However, I was intrigued by the modern look and style of what’s called the ‘full hollow’ design – and this is the CIGADesign ‘Forbidden City Ceramic Edition’ automatic skeleton – and right from the shape of the case, to the material used and the overall design, this just seems that bit different from other skeletons around.

Soft silicon buckle strap for extreme comfort

It’s a nice size at 41mm x 41mm, has a proper Sapphire crystal over an intriguing and beautifully crafted made, subtly dark, high strength Zirconia full hollow ceramic case. And being hollow, pretty much the whole movement working detail can be seen from either the front or the back, so a true skeleton. It is coupled with a quick release 22mm ultra soft silicon hi-colour strap and buckle. Very comfortable to wear too.

Front view & movement – CigaDesign Hollow skeleton

It’s also pretty good value compared with many and cost effective, in that it’s powered by a SeaGull ST1646K, 19 jewel Automatic mechanical movement. This features a 40 Hour Power Reserve, 21,600A/h and with an accuracy of -15 to +30 seconds per day, which once settled in and running on the wrist can be pretty decent.

Designed by Zhang Jianmim, the Design Brand Founder from China, it belies those who still think China watches are somehow inferior – this one is a very decent watch, from the inspired design to the very different, modern look and a high quality result.

This model comes in three colours – Dusk Blue, Midnight black and the one featured here is Sunset red.

Rear view window – showing SeaGull Auto rotor

At first meeting, in the flesh, as it were and on the wrist, it certainly appears as a rather stunningly attractive watch. The design has also been approved by the Industry and has both the Red Dot Award and the 2019 German Design Award.

As to clarity – well that’s always the issue with any skeleton watch. The fact that skeleton has to be see-through and the outer hands are the time indicators, it’s tricky. My personal test is to give the watch a glance – if I can quickly read the time, it passes, if not, it doesn’t. This model has silver flat hour and minute hands, also skeleton surprisingly and fortunately they tend to shine – so are just OK visible – so after a little wearing time, getting used to it, it might just pass my glance test. But the jury, it has to be said, is still out on this one. The sweep seconds hand is coloured red which should help.

The rear window view of course is not obscured by hands anyway and you can see the entire movement quite clearly.

SeaGull ST movement – (image **Ciga**Design copywrite)

In conclusion, it’s a comfortable watch on the wrist and a nice size, fits under a shirt cuff easily and when noticed, is always a talking point around the dinner table. The hi-colour strap first catches the attention, then as the dark ceramic case and skeleton dial come into view, it’s usually, “Ooh I like that, where did you get it?”.

So, as said, this is my second skeleton model and yes, perhaps a little different to the usual. The CigaDesign full hollow skeleton a rather nice addition to my eclectic collection of watches and nice to have – PLUS – this one was affordable, looks good – and I have to admit, it suits me rather well – what could be better? Well – that’s the question isn’t it?

In all honesty, I’m still unsure as to this skeleton idea, mostly because by it’s very nature, it is simply not as easy to read as a solid faced watch. And that’s the bottom line. It’s a personal choice at the end of the day, though for me, I think in future I’ll stick to solid dials – I mean my old eyesight ain’t going to bet better is it?

Note – All mages on this Post are taken of my own watch, except the exploded view of the modified SeaGull ST movement used in the watch model, shown here to the left, which is copywrite CigaDesign web site.