I have a small collection of Junkers watches and as with other brands I like, every so often I check out their newest offerings, basically to see what improvements or otherwise have been added.
The Junkers Tante JU52Automatic is one such model that has interested me since it first appeared and today’s version is no exception with that wonderfully figured “ribbed” dial so reminiscent of the Junkers aircraft.
Junkers Tante JU52 Automatic
The quality is really outstanding with its superb satin finish solid stainless steel case and Sapphire crystal, through which can be seen the clear, high contrast dial layout. The corrugated dial background with a decent sized date aperture @3, beautifully shaped Dauphinois hour and minute hands complete with Superluminova luminous in-fills are impressively clear to read (the hands are made in France). A long beautifully tapered black centre seconds hand travels majestically around the clearly defined perimeter index. Strongly defined black numerals complete the dial layout, which is signed, Made in Germany at the foot.
Junkers JU52 Automatic 24 jewel movement
Note the crown is well protected and additionally has two what appear blanking plates either side, perhaps a dual purpose case arrangement, and Water Resistance is rated as 100m – the overall look to the case however is one of solidity. The back is an exhibition windowed stainless steel screwed back plate, through which you can see the excellent 24 jewel automatic signed Pointec movement. Dimensions are a neat 40mm diameter x 12 mm and the lug to lug is short enough that this model fits the smaller wrist very well. The strap is a really high quality calf leather with two thicknesses, allowing it to be supportive near the case and yet allow flexibility at the buckle – something others should take note of, as all too often thick leather straps can be overly clumsy at the buckle fixing.
Junkers Tante Automatic leather strap with bespoke buckle.
The high quality leather strap, which is quite soft, has an unusual flat twin pin buckle and is one of the most comfortable straps I’ve ever owned.
Another feature is in the wearing. It is one of those watches that for whatever reason, just feels right on the wrist, it is extremely comfortable and a delight to wear and certainly makes me interested in enlarging my Junkers collection. It has also rekindled my love of German brand watches, which seem to have undergone a bit of a revival over the last few years – and I confess to perhaps overlooking them. But no longer, as I will feature a few more in future Posts I’m sure in the not too distant future.
Addendum – 21st July 2021
Well here we are some 6 years on and the Junkers Tante is as good as it was when I bought it. It runs as smooth as silk and as I said in the original Post, it is such a nice watch to wear. Presently, my preferred watch on the wrist for the foreseeable few weeks at least.
Interesting is the inspiration for this watch, which was from the Junkers Ju52/3m aircraft, first produced back in 1930. The designer, Ernst Zindal, used a highly controversial corrugated duralumin metal skin, as a strengthening measure and it was very striking indeed. This is shown in nice detail on the dial. The aeroplane was known both as Iron Annie and Aunt Ju, hence the name of this watch model “Tante” (Aunt in German).
An early vintage digital Expedition Timex is featured in this post, dated around 1998 (80 M745) in pretty decent all round condition. The digital display is clear and basically as good as the day it was bought. Classed as a Chronograph model the features are more or less what you get in the current Expedition models.
1998 Timex Expedition digital display normal daylight.
Digital display wise – Standard view is along the lower part, hours, minutes and seconds plus an AM/PM indicator and the upper part shows Day, Month and Date. Using the lower left pusher or “mode”, this changes the display in turn to Chronograph (with slit/lap timing), Alarm, Timer (100hrs) and 2nd Time Zone, in that order. This model also features a 12/24hr display option and an Hourly Chime. It has a night light (Indiglo) using the top left pusher which is on as long as the pusher is pressed. All setting is done using the lower right pusher and the top right pusher selects Alarm on or off etc. So quite familiar really to anyone used to using these digital display watches. Note in the images shown here the display shows grey background and black numerals when light is not being reflected off it, however its almost fluorescent when the light strikes at some angles and then appears very high contrast green background with black numerals.
Timex digital display in reflecting light – gives fluorescent contrast
In most conditions it’s pretty good though as most of these, the top data can be slightly over-shadowed by the black surround of the watch face. Still featured on some current watches, though I note many now have a visible face area wider than the numerals, so avoiding any possibility of shadows.
It’s a very neat watch at 39mm diameter and only 9mm depth, so a good bit smaller than current Expedition models. It has spring bars so you can fit any standard strap to it, though it actually measures a slightly non standard, but gettable, 19mm width. I have a Timex “E” quick wrap strap fitted and it is perfect and comfortable.
Timex Expedition on the wrist – very neat.
In a dark almost black resin case, light grey bezel with printed pusher data, the back has a stainless steel plate secured by 4 x corner screws and has it has 100m Water Resistance.
1998 v 2012/13 – watches are getting bigger.
Some of the older Timex models like this one, for me, are often nicer to wear than the present offerings. Only 15 years before the current stuff (an age in electronics of course) the displays funnily enough tended to be neater, as are the watches which were smaller and slimmer and yet managed to portray the excitement of the new Digital age without bulk or large knurled or knobbly bits here and there. They were and still are science fiction in a way, because they’re ground breaking and the core function and the attraction of the watch is not obscured by too much over the top and perhaps unnecessary Dr Who extravagance. Note this model has a battery life of around 6.5 years.
I might yet add more to my digital collection, though perhaps it could be more appropriate to call it my Timex collection, as I seem to be acquiring more of these by the week! Whatever – I’m sure it won’t be the last!
UPDATE – 4th August 2014
Started to get a little erratic this morning and I decided to check out and hopefully replace the battery – assuming this was the problem. Removed the 4 back screws and realized this was a different style of module that I am used to. The center part is a round cover which is actually clipped on to the very large CR2016 battery! The cover is held down by 3 screws to the module board. Simply removed these and un-clipped the battery from the cover once it was in my hand. Replaced the battery by clipping the cover over it, then dropped the cover and battery assembly on to the board, lining up the 3 screw holes and screwed it back in place. Writing on the cover says to “press this” to reset after battery change, referring I think to small metal contact on the module. However on turning the watch over I saw that the digits were indicating fine, so skipped that instruction. Replaced the back of the watch and set the time data. All functions are working perfectly now including the back light, which actually was the first problem I saw prior to replacing the battery. Instead of lighting, it indicated code and altered the time setting to 12:00. This I suspected was the lack of power – hence the battery change today. It took me about 10 minutes start to finish.
Sorry I didn’t think to take photographs, but suffice to say it was very easy to manage.
UPDATE – 16th July 2021
Well here we are some 7 years later after the last battery change. The watch is still working perfectly, display showing just great and a testament to the longevity of this classic Timex Expedition watch. The only thing I had to do was correct the day from the 18th to the 16th (today) and re-adjust the time slightly – it was 5 minutes fast – which is not bad after 7 years from an early quartz.
My previous experience with a skeleton watch was some years ago (long gone now) and have to say, it just never lived up to my expectation. Mostly because the whole dial was so taken up with a trellis style frame, which held the movement in place, I struggled a), to see the movement properly and b), to make out the time.
CigaDesign Hollow skeleton Automatic
Now OK, I get the point that the function is really to show the inner, rather than the outer, but that particular watch, just didn’t do it for me. You don’t need a frame holding the movement getting in the way and with a solid a minute/hour index around the circumference, again obscuring the view, then it’s not really skeleton at all.
Zirconia ceramic hollow cased Skeleton
But, as with the nature of the beast – as they say – skeleton is skeleton.
However, the watch in my opinion has to look good and different too, so design has to be an important consideration. I’ve also seen so called skeleton models with quartz movements, where quartz and movement are for me a contradiction in terms – the only moving parts being the hands and maybe a cogwheel? which seems hardly worth the effort.
However, I was intrigued by the modern look and style of what’s called the ‘full hollow’ design – and this is the CIGADesign ‘Forbidden City Ceramic Edition’ automatic skeleton – and right from the shape of the case, to the material used and the overall design, this just seems that bit different from other skeletons around.
Soft silicon buckle strap for extreme comfort
It’s a nice size at 41mm x 41mm, has a proper Sapphire crystal over an intriguing and beautifully crafted made, subtly dark, high strength Zirconia full hollow ceramic case. And being hollow, pretty much the whole movement working detail can be seen from either the front or the back, so a true skeleton. It is coupled with a quick release 22mm ultra soft silicon hi-colour strap and buckle. Very comfortable to wear too.
Front view & movement – CigaDesign Hollow skeleton
It’s also pretty good value compared with many and cost effective, in that it’s powered by a SeaGull ST1646K, 19 jewel Automatic mechanical movement. This features a 40 Hour Power Reserve, 21,600A/h and with an accuracy of -15 to +30 seconds per day, which once settled in and running on the wrist can be pretty decent.
Designed by Zhang Jianmim, the Design Brand Founder from China, it belies those who still think China watches are somehow inferior – this one is a very decent watch, from the inspired design to the very different, modern look and a high quality result.
This model comes in three colours – Dusk Blue, Midnight black and the one featured here is Sunset red.
Rear view window – showing SeaGull Auto rotor
At first meeting, in the flesh, as it were and on the wrist, it certainly appears as a rather stunningly attractive watch. The design has also been approved by the Industry and has both the Red Dot Award and the 2019 German Design Award.
As to clarity – well that’s always the issue with any skeleton watch. The fact that skeleton has to be see-through and the outer hands are the time indicators, it’s tricky. My personal test is to give the watch a glance – if I can quickly read the time, it passes, if not, it doesn’t. This model has silver flat hour and minute hands, also skeleton surprisingly and fortunately they tend to shine – so are just OK visible – so after a little wearing time, getting used to it, it might just pass my glance test. But the jury, it has to be said, is still out on this one. The sweep seconds hand is coloured red which should help.
The rear window view of course is not obscured by hands anyway and you can see the entire movement quite clearly.
SeaGull ST movement – (image CigaDesign copywrite)
In conclusion, it’s a comfortable watch on the wrist and a nice size, fits under a shirt cuff easily and when noticed, is always a talking point around the dinner table. The hi-colour strap first catches the attention, then as the dark ceramic case and skeleton dial come into view, it’s usually, “Ooh I like that, where did you get it?”.
So, as said, this is my second skeleton model and yes, perhaps a little different to the usual. The CigaDesign full hollow skeleton a rather nice addition to my eclectic collection of watches and nice to have – PLUS – this one was affordable, looks good – and I have to admit, it suits me rather well – what could be better? Well – that’s the question isn’t it?
In all honesty, I’m still unsure as to this skeleton idea, mostly because by it’s very nature, it is simply not as easy to read as a solid faced watch. And that’s the bottom line. It’s a personal choice at the end of the day, though for me, I think in future I’ll stick to solid dials – I mean my old eyesight ain’t going to bet better is it?
Note – All mages on this Post are taken of my own watch, except the exploded view of the modified SeaGull ST movement used in the watch model, shown here to the left, which is copywrite CigaDesign web site.
Odd title I know, but it refers to something that’s sort of crept up on me after many years of watch collecting. Complication, because I quite like the idea of more than just seeing the time and Simple, because I have no wish to check an instructional booklet every time I look at the darned thing, because it might be complicated to operate.
So a bit of nostalgia here, as I refer back to an older Post which I now update. This is for the Casio Lineage model LW-170M-1AER which exactly illustrates the solution to my dilemma – ie: a Simple complication.
This watch is so simple, yet provides considerable complication that’s also practical. So, good enough as a daily beater and requiring no input from the wearer at all – in other words – super, super simple.
First thing to say is, it’s a model that’s so understated and almost anonymous, it’s a masterpiece.
It is also rather conservatively stylish. Beautifully made of solid Titanium with subtly sloping brushed sides, polished bezel and a clear analogue dial but also an unobtrusive yet easily readable digital window. Good luminous hands, neat size, very slim and rather elegant – it simply belies it’s technical prowess.
Solar powered (in fact Casio call it “Tough Solar”) According to Casio it can use weak lighting outdoor or even indoor to provide enough charge energy to operate high power hungry features. So not just solar powered – this is one very clever watch – more like I’d call super solar powered. Radio Controlled – with 6 Bands selectable. World Time feature programmed to 2099. Super slim at just 9 mm depth and 39 mm diameter.
So basically and right out of the box after first super simple calibration (push one button – 3 minutes with signal) you then strap it on and forget it – period.
More generally this model features are as follows –
5 Alarms, Hourly Time Signal (selectable), World Time programmed to 2099, a Radio Time Signal check 6 times/day usually overnight (once signal success all other time checks are cancelled), 60 minutes Stop Watch, Countdown Timer (1 minute to 100 minutes in 1 second intervals), LED (bright) night lighting, Battery Power indicator. Power Save function after 60-70 minutes in the dark (second hand parks @12 – display is blank – after 6 or 7 days all hands park @12 and most other functions such as Auto Receive stop, except for internal clock).
As usual with Casio but simpler than normal – the lower left (B) pusher is the Mode, lower right (C) is what I call the “does something” pusher and the top right (A) pusher operates the light mainly, though does have some additional functions. As per usual for me I set the default view in the digital display to show Day and Date – this can be toggled using the (C) pusher.
My own version – easily fits my 165/70 cm wrist.
The watch is also Water Resistant to 5 bar and the Sapphire Crystal is virtually scratch-less. It tends to be supplied with a Titanium bracelet which is good, though care should be taken if removing links owing to the Casio hidden split collars within the bracelet – but that’s another story (I covered removal of links in a previous Post).
I prefer it on a neat black silicon deployment strap as it’s comfortable, easy on and off and it looks good.
But as said at the start – this is a watch with a good many features and does NOT require a degree or constant referral to instructions.
Set it how you want it, wear it and forget it!
My first Post on this watch was back in 2016, but there are still versions of this Lineage series around – and I can see why – because it’s one of those models that Casio are very, very good at. It looks good, it’s really quite simple to use, yet with amazing complications, easy to see, very accurate, neat on the wrist – and it’s very difficult to beat – AND it is VERY affordable.
If truth be known, this is probably the only watch anyone would ever need – I kid you not!
A few years back I found a series of watches from a German designer, Rolf Cremer and I liked the look of their range of neat colourful watches. One model really took my fancy back then as it was unusual in that it was a small watch but with a large double date window @12.
Rolf Cremer Bogen Gent – Double Date clarity.
Today looking at their current range, unfortunately I don’t see any double date windows this time, so just shows that when you see a model that really takes your fancy, you should buy it – assuming you can afford it. I should have bought this one as it was very affordable at the time. But too late now!
Rolf Cremer Tower Automatic
However as with most designers, they don’t stand still and they have plenty of new designs on their web site
I like this one. This is the Rolf Cremer Tower Automatic Date watch in red and black, which has a great modern look. The lightning yellow sweep seconds hand is quite striking. The Date window @between 4 & 5 is unusual with the triangle background, again giving it a ‘look’ which is both interesting and clear. The crown is in keeping and is also triangular, with a colour insert in co-ordinating red. The leather strap is in dark red antique finish and compliments the overall look with a stainless steel buckle as is the case which is 42mm diameter.
Rolf Cremer Miyota automatic movement.
The movement is a quality mechanical automatic Miyota (can be seen via the clear glass back) which is a highly reliable workhorse and well suited to the Tower and Mech series of models.
Rolf Cremer Tower automatic 1 of 7 versions
There are 7 versions of this Tower model, all slightly different, but all very interesting and quite unique. I show here another version, this time with a combination of numerals and markers and whilst in the same manner, has a quite different and individual look all of it’s own.
Suffice to say the range is wide and varied, the use of colour and shapes paramount to the look of this collection, from angles dials to offset faces and so on, it’s always refreshing to see. One thing is certain, with such a range of diversity, it allows you to choose a model that matches with your own particular persona. And that’s not an easy thing to manage. Indeed a Rolf Cremer is immediately identifiable, but never boring.
Which is why they are always on my “Watch List” – Note – they also have quartz models too at a lower price-point. They can be viewed HERE.
There’s always something special about a double date window, especially for those of use whose eyesight is weakening. Too often over recent years even with spectacles, I sometimes have to squint a bit to see the tiny date windows that many models seem to have today.
Kienzle K Spirit K801 Date watch
It’s even nicer to find a watch, however, that’s just a little bit different, such as the Kienzle K Spirit K801 1503011 featured here. And different in a good way and not just owing to the large split date aperture. The fact is, this is a quite large watch at 42mm diameter, which is about my maximum for comfort, but this model is conversely very wearable even to the medium wrist, because of its slimness. The case depth is a very neat 8mm – (9 mm including crystal) and that makes all the difference.
It comes with a leather deployment strap, though it’s one of those add on types that fits to a standard strap minus the pin buckle. I always find these to be quite clumsy, so I removed it and replaced it, first with an old spare blue leather buckle strap, to see how it looked, then finally for a proper silicon deployment strap in orange. It is now a much neater fit for me.
The watch dial is also round, but the case, not quite so and overall it is clear to
Kienzle – on the wrist
read. Add this to the large effective Date indication @6 and what we have is a really nice watch. Well specified with its Stainless Steel polished case with a brushed finished upper surface, Luminous hands and markers, red centre seconds hand and K1 Mineral glass. It is powered by the Swiss Ronda 6003B quartz movement (374 Renata battery) and finally has an impressive 100m Water Resistance. Note too that the crown has a neat red coloured indented line decoration.
I well remember the first Kienzle watch I owned was one of the very first Radio Controlled ones, which at the time were really well priced against the upcoming Japanese models. It was relatively plain, but it did the job very well indeed and never let me down. I still have a Kienzle Radio Controlled alarm clock, which I remember buying back in the 1990’s I think, which is still in use today.
Re-strapped with Silicon deployment – neater than original
Of course Kienzle have been around a long time, with origins from 1822 according to their web site, with clocks, then clocks and watches – in fact they were the largest producer of watches in Germany back in the 1970’s. Had a foreign investment take over for four or five years, but then back in German hands since 2002 I believe and today their main and very successful range is produced in Hamburg.
Note – I find the dial hour numerals a little unusual. Unlike most watches the main hour numerals here are all read as if from the dial centre, which is interesting – as most watches tend to change the hour numerals orientation to upright on the lower half of the dial. Using the same centre reading logic, one could be forgiven if you read the date as 80 and not 08 – but of course you don’t.
Odd, isn’t it. . . .?
Note – I added a final image with an orange silicon deployment strap fitted – so much better than the original retro-fit type – slimmer and neater on the wrist.
Sometimes the ladies can get a mention now and then – so many watch sites are virtually men only – but this time I found a great modern girl watch. None of the tiny vintage dial models that Granny or your Mother used to wear that often used to twist around with little silly bracelets, but a really decent and classy watch.
Junkers South America 6539-5 Quartz Ladies Date watch
This one is from the well known German Brand and is the Junkers F13 – or South America 6539-5, which I think you’ll agree would not be immediately thought of as a Ladies models – but it is – and looks really good.
This is a quartz powered watch, so wear it and forget it for a few years easily before the battery needs changing. Accurate too, as quartz these days is about as good as anyone needs. Great gold coloured case with an off yellow dial and VERY clear to read with those large hands, small seconds index and actually a pretty decent size date window @3. (some of their Gents models don’t). It’s also got a really good sized crown, so very easy to set the time on those non 31 day months.
The crystal is hardened mineral glass and there is a good brown leather strap with tang buckle. A neat little diamond stud @12, just sets it off and dimensions are ideal at 36mm x just 8mm case depth, so really slim. It is powered, as I say with Quartz, but this is a Ronda Swiss movement, so should be pretty decent. And to cap it all it has a decent 50m Water Resistance, which you don’t often get with say a ladies fashion watch.
I also noticed the little decoration in the background centre of the dial, which is another subtle feminisation of this piece.
So, a rock solid model from Junkers, but this time for the ladies and certainly for the modern girl, not your granny.
I like it so much I have to admit to being quite tempted myself and I’m in two minds whether I should let my Wife read this Post, as this is a watch size that she really likes, (my mistake for showing her my old Patek at 36mm) so there’s no question she’ll quite fancy this.
And it’s definitely affordable, it really is, as I’ve seen it for under £200 after Customs charges.
Note – This Post can also be found in the Ladies section PAGE.
Occasionally whilst trawling the Net, you come across watch making Brands that for whatever reason are quite unknown to you. Perhaps these are lesser manufacturers or models sold in other parts of the world and not so well known in your own Country.
Elysee Priamos 77015 Automatic Date watch
But noticed because for some reason their style, look or quality perhaps, says these are worth a further look.
Incidentally, this Post entitled “Interesting finds” I plan to be a recurring monthly feature, where I hope to Post a model/Brand that I think has merit and worth a mention.
The first is this rather nice traditional looking German model – the Elysee Priamos 77015, from yes, you’ve guessed it – Elysee.
And they have been around for a little while, founded in 1920 by Jaques Beaufort with the Elysee brand – though newly acquired in 1991, they now produce in Dusseldorf – ‘Made in Germany’ mid range quality watches, with quite a selection of models, both Gents and Ladies.
The featured model is a mechanical automatic (with Miyota movement), white dial with Power Reserve indication, small/medium seconds and an incorporated Date widow @3. Sapphire crystal, stainless steel case and a quality black leather deployment buckle strap.
Dimensions are a neat 11mm case depth and 41mm diameter and it’s water resistant to 50m.
It has the typical German traditional style, luminous hands and applied markers and overall, for my taste has a good look . However and especially for a Quartz model, being priced at around £300, it’s maybe a little high against its competition. It comes complete with a 2 year Warranty.
However, overall I was quite taken by the look of this one, partly because I like the German watch style, and I have quite similar ones in my collection, such as Bruno Sohnle, Junghans, Bauhaus, Nomos, Junkers and others – suffice to say I just find them to be fine watches and I like wearing them.
Note – on the pricing, I’ve found that most Germans models featuring Quartz movements, are very competitive and often under the £200 mark. And make no mistake, in general they are very good watches.
Upgrading to mechanical Automatics, if using Japanese movements, the price is up to twice that figure and for Swiss or in-house Automatics, maybe three times the price.
Now OK, that’s a rough and perhaps over simplification of pricing, but basically that’s my general experience. Of course there are exceptions depending on Brand name and so on. Though with the speed of change today, it may well be that watches for everyday wear will very much be at masses prices. Good for us, yes?
In my last Post I referenced a few of the Bauhaus styled watches around at the moment. Each trying to emulate the philosophy of the German Bauhaus movement earlier this century and showing how this could be represented in watches. And the trouble with the Bauhaus criteria of Form, function and structure, results in a minimalist style, which does not allow much in the way of variation. So, many of the watches, by definition, can look very similar.
Bauhaus Classic 2162-1 Auto Calendar (stock image)
However, as a retired person, whilst I like the simplicity of a straight timekeeper, I do like to know what the date is and if possible, the day too. Those of you who are retired, know that weekends and weekdays are all the same – no differentiation – as our working week is long gone. So, how to fit this in to my love of Bauhaus style watches, when their dials are often taken to semi minimalist extremes.
And this shouldn’t really be a problem, as Bauhaus is NOT truly minimalist, it is more what I would call, ‘functional simplicity’. It needs what it needs to provide it’s function, clearly, and without too much in the way of that which is not needed. If you get my meaning.
And for me, my own favourite, the Bauhaus Classic 2162-1 Automatic Day/Date watch does it rather well and for reasons not immediately obvious.
It’s a decent size without being too large, at 41mm diameter and 13mm depth. The case is really very fine in polished 316L stainless steel with a 5 bar or 50m Water Resistance. The dial is somewhat unique in that it has two-tone hands – the minute one, being in red, plus a full size centre seconds sweep hand and a date only window @3. AND it has that nice, wide, full Day indication @12. So much better that the usual abbreviated style. I confess to always having a fascination for the full centre seconds mechanical sweep hand, rather than a sub seconds layout, which you barely notice.
The numeral fonts are also small, so a departure from most of the other Bauhaus offerings, which in this case adds to it’s discretion, and dial text is also quite small and thin and therefore non-intrusive, which I also like. And to make things even better – the entire set up is very clear to read, assisted by the subtle emphasis of the thicker width black hour hand. So not just a clone of so many other Bauhaus watches on offer today at all. In fact a lot of thought has gone into this model.
Bauhaus 2162-1 Automatic (real photo, on my wrist – today!)
The movement is the 21 jewel Automatic Citizen/Miyota 8285, with a 42 hour power reserve. It has quick date setting and supports hand winding too, so all in all, a really excellent choice of movement.
Some descriptions refer to this watch calendar as Fecha, which in this instance I can only guess means the Day is separate from the Date, but I’m no linguist.
The crystal is an Extra Scratch Proof K1 mineral and the watch has an exhibition back, through which you can view the movement. The strap is a medium thick 20mm fine brown calf skin leather and on the wrist it looks very stylish.
There is also a quartz Bauhaus model, the Classic 2140, which has a date only @6.
Bauhaus Classic – Ronda 505 Quartz
It is powered by the well known Swiss Ronda 505 Quartz movement, though personally I find the mechanical automatic is more in keeping with the Bauhaus idea. But it is very affordable and in my opinion, if quartz is not an issue for you, then with it’s very neat and precise dial, it is a real alternative to the Bauhaus rivals listed in my previous Post. And it still features these clever hands.
Both models are Made in Germany in Ruhla, where Iron Annie and Zeppelin watches are also produced. The POINTtec Company manages the entire line and it’s not the first watch I’ve had from them. What I have found is that every watch (6 to date) I’ve had from this stable, has given me many years of exemplary service.
In my own mind, I consider that the Bauhaus brand watches featured here, are a step up in overall design from any of the ones featured in the last Post. Whilst the Nomos Tangente is the best of them, the Bauhaus 2162-1 in my opinion is superior to all of them.
However, both Bauhaus branded models featured here, have something about their under-stated design, which is difficult to beat and the 2161-1 as I say, transcends even the Nomos. The small numeral delicacy and the two-tone asymmetric width hands, just lifts the watch into a much more considered and refined category. And yes – absolutely, to another level. The designers here, have really, really thought about the details and have managed that subtle and elusive ‘something’ extra.
Personal I know, but in the end, that’s what it’s all about and maybe the rivals have forgotten that having virtually the same dial, same fonts, same straight hands and plain white background, maybe isn’t the be-all and end-all of what makes a watch ultimately attractive to the buyer.
There’s always that ‘something’ – that draws you in – and whilst all are attempting to reflect Bauhaus, it maybe takes a little more than just more of the same, or just copying what others are doing.
For me, I think the Bauhaus Classics here manage that ‘something’ – very well indeed.
Addendum –
So, what would I do to improve the above models? Well, to be perfect for me – a slightly enlarged date window and a 28,800 A/h ticker would do it
Splitting hairs and unfair, I know, but . . . . .
Best Bauhaus? – The Bauhaus 2162-1 is my No1 and my No2 has to be the Junkers (see last Post).
A name synonymous with the German art of structure, form and function, so persuasive that way back in 1919 to 1933 in Germany, the School of Fine Arts, espoused that form should follow function, without the unnecessary – in other words, a sort of minimalism. But importantly “without stifling design” – and that phrase so important in the world of truly Bauhaus described watches.
True Bauhaus – the Nomos Tangente Automatic Date watch
The Brand that for sometime now has one of the best of Bauhaus tradition is Nomos – specifically the Glashutte Tangente. And it’s well known as a high quality model that manages to command quite a price too. With it’s in-house mechanical Automatic movement, something of a rarity these days, it also manages to be of a nice size at 39mm diameter. Sapphire crystal, neatly cased in high polished steel, I show it here as the standard to which a new contender has to aspire.
Now the Bauhaus philosophy is quite well catered for in the watch business – rivals to Nomos such as – Stowa, Sternglas, Junghans, Junkers and Seagull come to mind and there are others such as Panzera, Nordgreen or Aristo and so on. Most are not as expensive, though the cheaper are often Quartz powered, which for me doesn’t quite gel with the ideal of Bauhaus – I feel the concepts of Form, Function and Structure without the unnecessary, seems to get lost in the static world of electronics – but maybe that’s just me.
Feice FM201 Bauhaus Automatic – more than a copy?
The Bauhaus concept for me is alive in a way that the solid state world just isn’t. Some, for example interpret the Bauhaus movement as a sort of Danish minimalist design, which (I have some myself) and I always end up personally disappointed, because they are so- minimal – and if I’m honest, a little bit barren, dare I say, like furniture – not that Danish furniture is uncomfortable, but I like to see the comfort too, with comfortable surroundings – but again, is that just me?
And this is where the Bauhaus concept is so interesting, by design and in the feelings it gives the wearer. There’s something both comfortable and comforting – and invariably mine end up on my wrist more than most.
I like them, specifically the automatics. Firstly, as they are alive and secondly, you simply wear them and they are part of you. No batteries, no winding and no fiddling around.
So, although I had heard of them, still a bit of a surprise when I came across the FIECE FM201 – in person, as it were. Bauhaus style, Automatic, with understated Date indication and owing to the derisory price I assumed Quartz. I mean – the Fiece is around £150 – and the Nomos near £2000! Now that! is a hell of a difference!
I can understand some of the price differential, as the Fiece sports a Chinese modified movement. Those clever Sea-Gull people at Tianjin in China managing the tricky business of combining mass market methods with increasingly decent movement quality – not easy.
So, as it often happens, it all comes down to Quality v Price.
Of course, much depends on your definition of quality. To some – if it ticks and keeps decent time – then that might be good enough. To others, it’s about “look” and finish and detail and what’s inside and so on – very subjective indeed. And in this particular instance we dare not forget that it’s all about the Bauhaus philosophy too – which is about Form and Function and Structure, and no unnecessary bits – Gets tricky doesn’t it?
My Junkers ‘100yr’ Bauhaus, with Miyota Auto 9132 calibre, 28,800 A/h – a favourite classic for me.Feice FM201 with Sea-Gull Auto movement
As to Sea-Gull movements, I used to have reservations, in the past, when their assembly procedures were not so good. In those days you might get a good one, or a not so good one, though ironically the movements were very good. I do remember they benefitted from a good clean and service, which instantly elevated them right up there with the Swiss ETA calibres.
However, changed days now and their movements are well respected indeed and have come a long way from the Citizen/Miyota origins – incidentally my own Junkers Bauhaus, shown here features a very good Miyota 9132, 28,800A/h Calibre.
Both Miyota and Sea-Gull have become synonymous with mass availability of excellent automatic movements and can really challenge the ubiquitous Swiss ETA2824-2 automatics.
I applaud them both, as Quality, Quantity and Price are a tricky balance to manage, so no mean feat.
BUT, that’s not the topic for here – suffice to say that “Made in China” doesn’t always mean cheap and cheerful. What it can show is that very decent watches are now widely available to everyone – and that’s a good thing.
But for Fiece, the idea of using the Bauhaus concept and promoting globally and espousing – Form, Function and a certain marketing seriousness, hasn’t hindered them in their mass market approach and by increasing quality is a real bonus. They have carefully followed others with this trend and with some success.
Their Bauhaus ‘homage’ models are attractive enough for me to check them out – and so, I bought the Fiece FM201, and it’s definitely better than expected.
My Feice FM201 Bauhaus 38mm on wrist – Budget or Bargain?
In comparison to the Nomos, the dial text/font clarity and detail is good, as is the Date aperture (though smaller than my Junkers). The hands maybe not quite as delicate, but also good and maybe overall, the dial isn’t quite as – shall I say – ‘fine’, but it’s still very good.
But as always, my observations are subjective. As to the movement – well OK Nomos is certainly highly regarded, but the Fiece FM201 Sea-Gull is pretty decent and with no internal traces of fingers or dust or skin flakes. It also has some evidence of oil (that’s good), so it appears the old Sea-Gull shortcomings of the past, may well be long gone.
Or have I just been lucky? No, I suspect today, they have definitely raised their game.
And as to how it looks on the wrist and for timekeeping – it looks pretty darned good – and it certainly does look ‘Bauhaus’.
So – Budget or bargain?
Well, I would have to say – bargain. It has the Bauhaus look, it’s nice to look at, it works well, suits the wrist and it wasn’t expensive – so what’s not to like!
Of course, there will be detractors who will accuse yet another Brand of producing another “homage” or even a “copy” (and let’s face it, there are many models out there that are close copies of others – right from the top down). Some are near fake category, but that’s taking it too far and such an accusation only valid if their offering was “made to deceive”.
Personally, I like some of those listed here and there are some good Bauhaus styles around. However, with each trying to have that “look”, the result shows that their options are somewhat limited in how they look in reality, so copy accusations are easy to assume, rightly or wrongly.
Me? I’m just a punter, a guy who likes to buy and wear pleasing watches and I like Bauhaus style. So, from my point of view it’s all academic. Selfishly, it simply means I have a greater choice of models and Brands to choose from and in a wide price range too – and it is just that – personal choice.
The Bauhaus concept has no doubt spawned an attractive range of similar styled watches (you either like ’em or you don’t) – and there are bargains to be had.
Addendum –
It should be noted that Tianjin Sea-Gull watches also make their own Bauhaus watch – which is shown here – and it is very well priced too – this is the Automatic D819.612 without date. Nice size at 39mm and 9mm depth with Sapphire crystal – slightly slimmer than the Feice but I like them both.
Latest – However – I do have another Bauhaus, not shown here, which I will feature in another Post quite soon, that for me, has a certain ‘something’ to it, that really appeals – so watch this space!
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