This is an update from a Post I did in 2015, brought about today by my re-organising and relocating my watch storage ideas – and as I saw it, thought I’d check it over. Always worth checking for any errors or incorrect info made at the time, and update on it’s condition and any other images I have, I can add.
Occasionally I visit Antique Fairs, mostly as an accompaniment to my Wife who’s into Art Deco, so I take the opportunity to seek out any Watch sellers that happen to be there.
Eterna·Matic 2002 from 1973
Anyway, trawling around the Fair and in amongst the “house clearance” stuff and quite a few watches that obviously lived their lives in boxes full of old nails, I did come across a guy who actually had some decent stuff. His prices were the sort of prices I understand – he’s a watch guy – say no more! and we got on.
Quite a few decent models there too, from Jaeger LeCoultre to Omega to Rolex and so on, but the one that caught my eye was this lovely super condition Eterna·Matic 2002 from 1973. It simply stood out as one of those very good but understated Brands and this one as good today as the day it was produced. The case is that lovely cushion/tonneau shaped ’70s style and in really good condition with no corrosion or plating loss.
Original dial – as good as it gets.
The excellent mechanical movement is the Calibre 12824 or (ETA 2824) automatic date, which beats along at a very smooth 28,800 a/h frequency. The description “sweep” seconds hand really does apply here.
The serial number is scribed on the movement, as is the Eterna·Matic name, Brevet Swiss (Swiss patented). The movement condition is also excellent, the rotor sweet and smooth and the watch dial is something to be very pleased about. The watch back is screwed stainless steel with an intact near perfect condition rubber gasket seal and engraved case number.
Approximately 38 mm wide (39 mm including the semi-recessed Crown) by 37 mm lug to lug and the wrist shot is self evident – pretty much perfect. The Crown is part shrouded by the neat underside chamfered shaping of the case and a slight indent on the top/side of the case.
The dial is really good – the gold hands and baton markers crisp and clear, the dial’s vertical brushed Gold texture background and wonderfully light contrasting outer index a total delight and all original. Note the Crown – is topped with the 5 protruding balls logo and matches the dial logo. The strap is a 19 mm wide non-original (the old one was done) Condor in a soft flexible Buffalo Calf which matches up very nicely.
Watch dimensions – just about ideal for me or indeed anybody today despite the penchant for large watches, this just fits perfectly.
As good as it gets on the wrist! Makes some modern watches look bland! (2015
The watch functions smoothly, the date change crisp and the date wheel is in perfect condition and it is one very accurate movement, as was intended.
The Eterna·Matic Automatic Cal 12824 – 28,000 beats (2015)
Interesting model this as it started off life in 1972 (Eterna have been around sine 1856) and it was with this Eterna·Matic named model that the Company re-introduced itself to the world.
It was a bit of a revelation in the Watch Industry as it was the first watch to wind itself automatically by means of ball bearings – self polishing too, which reduced friction losses considerably and as a result produced a remarkably accurate movement. They even offered a Ladies model with the same set up – and that was something really new.
Eterna·Matic 1973 automatic – (image 2024)
And so here it is in 2024 after 51 years and looking great! – now that has to be quality. And as to value? Well let’s just say that I was VERY pleased at the time I bought it. . . .
This is not the first Eterna·Matic in my collection – and it won’t be the last, I’m sure.
Screw down back & semi-recessed crown (image 2024)
Note –As a brand Eterna today is often forgotten about by the mainstream, which is an oversight in my opinion as their range of models are both technically interesting and varied.
Models such as the Adventic which features the Eterna in-house Calibre 3843 with their Eterna Spherodrive mechanism (ball bearing mounted barrel) or the hand wound Madison big date (one of my favourites), which features an 8 day Calibre 3510 with a serially coupled pair of spring barrels working in tandem to deliver 192 hours of power thanks to that Spherodrive system. This is a hand wound model that only requires to be wound 3 times a month!
So plenty of innovation from Eterna and certainly should always be a consideration if looking for a more individual watch today. I hope to run a Post at some point on the range of models currently available
Note– The original Post is still on the main Posts section, but as I’ve now updated it, I’ll delete it from there. There is a copy of the Post in the Vintage gents section and I’ll update that one with this update as I go along.
Wearing my old Tissot T-Touch Solar for this week and I’m still impressed by it’s look and functions.
My 2013 Tissot Solar T-Touch. Titanium. (image April 2024)
The technical aspects of this model were pretty much ground breaking at the time. I got this back in 2014 about a year after it came out.
Details of this model specifically can be found on my original Post – here
However, I thought I’d have a look at Tissot, 11 years on and have to say, they really have moved on! Same fundamentals, but really updated to part smart watch to whatever you need it to be. Awesome.
Colourful strap with this one and a few more functions with phone messages and activities control, but very familiar to me.
Am I tempted?
Well, I have to say yes, but I won’t be getting it as it costs around £1000 and I’m not into activities such as trekking and running and all that stuff, at my age – and as for messages – well – I can simply use my phone, so not really required.
But it looks great and I’m sure it will attract those younger than myself, who like me decided it was just the thing for them at the time.
I note they have done away with the old hat digital window and dates and data all appear on the screen – a la Smart phones – just goes to show that maybe today I’m out of Touch! (get it?)
My collection has grown somewhat since getting this particular watch, which I see is still being produced today. This is the J&T Windmills Threadneedle model 10004/01 with hand wound 17 jewel adjusted movement. I understand the movement is the Swiss Sellita SW200, in their own hallmarked Sterling Silver case.
I understand the Dreyfuss Group, owned by China Haidian, are the owners of the Brand name now, though I’m not sure if that was the case when I bought this one back in 2009.
The Windmills “Threadneedle” manual wind, sterling silver cased.
It is in fact a rather stylish watch, harking back to the days of the original J&T Windmills of London pocket watches, reflecting the dial styles of the originals. The dial states “made in England” as opposed to “assembled in England”, though it seems barely relevant these days as so many components have varied and tortuous sources. Suffice to say it’s a Swiss movement and the whole watch is assembled in the UK.
Certainly the J&T Windmills watch looks pretty decent, especially with the nicely rounded gleam of a Sterling Silver case and those singular articulated lugs and offset ‘onion’ crown @ 2. (my personal preference would be straight spring bars).
17 jewels adjusted, hand wound.
The shape of the case itself is both sophisticated and elegantly slim (7mm) with beautifully rounded and polished sides. The description “sophisticated” is evidenced by the fully decorated back, taken from the original Windmills engravings of old. Quite striking actually and subtle in that it’s hidden from sight to all but the wearer.
Decorated back with individual watch numberThe original WI “Windmills” Sterling silver hallmark.
The dial is classic pocketwatch or clock style, so reflecting the origins of the Company it is honouring.
I like the overall look of the dial face with long and dark fine shaped hour and minute hands and a I do like a fine overhung centre sweep seconds hand.
Both minute and second hands align and meet the first inner curve of the numeral markers perfectly. The hour hand meets perfectly the inner edge of the roman numerals, thus making a precise reading of the time assured. This, I really do like – and such a simple feature that many manufacturers could and should take the trouble to emulate.
Slightly elongated Roman numerals in black and a neat date aperture @6, which is large enough to give clarity without compromising the elegance of the whole, complete the frontage of this very stylish watch. I note in the current model, the date window is @3.
Back to the Made in England reference.
To have the nomenclature “made in” or “X made” is basically a matter of where, what and how. And importantly how much of the where, what and how is in the Country so defined.
Here in the UK the Trades Description Act requires certain parameters to have been met – namely “… goods shall be deemed to have been manufactured or produced in the country in which they last underwent a treatment or process resulting in a substantial change”.
And in this case a judication was actually made a year or so ago and these are some of the facts disclosed.
Quote –
The J&T here is designed in the United Kingdom – in London. Prototypes are developed in China and subsequent samples are refined in their Essex, England facility. The movement is sourced from Switzerland movement – this is a “raw” movement set where a complete set of the components of a watch of which all or part of the components are not assembled or partly assembled (marketed in this form). In the case of this particular mechanical display movement the dial and hands are not included. The watches are assembled and quality controlled by specialist watchmakers at the UK assembly facility. J&T watchmakers decorate the movement with bespoke Windmills “plates”, which is a manually intensive task, seat the dial on the movement and fix and set the watch hands in a careful and time consuming process.
Double deployment engraved “Windmills”
After testing the full “casing up” (assembly) process is undertaken where watchmakers insert the movement into the case, fit the crown to the stem and wind the watch fully, and after a further 48-hour testing process they approve the watch for packaging and despatch. So, as the value of components sourced abroad is only 34% of the ex-works price, value-wise the watch can genuinely be described as “Made in England” and as said, there are a few Swiss Mades that might be in a similar position if challenged.
It is true that the British Horological Federation (BHF) confirmed that the use of foreign movements was common practice in the watch and clock trade, and that labour and parts would provide substantial added value to the final product.
So a British watch promoting British heritage, re-launched if you will and named in honour of the revered watch and Clock making family J&T Windmills of the 19th century. A tried and tested trend used by a few others – and not a bad result.
Nice addition to my collection.
The watch included a fine patent leather and a deployment fitting. The strap was not overlong as too many are today and with watch dimensions of just 38mm diameter and an approximate 7.5mm depth (the sapphire crystal is slightly domed). It is slim and neat to wear and will easily slide under a sleeve.
On the wrist – perfect!
Accuracy is commensurate with Swiss quartz, so no surprises there.
My only real issue is with the deployment buckle, which though in keeping with the watch style, signed and so on, is a double deployment fitting, which I personally find very fiddly. A single deployment for me would have been so much more practical. The deployment advantage? – it’s said that it protects the strap from premature wear and that maybe true, but for me a simple pin buckle strap will with wear, mould itself to your wrist and I much prefer that any day. Anyway, this one is quite comfortable (once you get it on, that is . . .).
However –
I remember not long after getting the watch, as I was winding it, the crown and stem simply fell off into my hand! Disaster! Not what I expected at all.
Made me doubt both the assembly procedure and their Quality Control and I was very disappointed. So, after emailing them, I sent it back under guarantee and rather than a repair, I was sent a replacement (different number). Very commendable I hear you say, but why did it take them 11 weeks before replacing it, which with my pessimistic nature, to me smacked of lead times from – perhaps China? OR – optimistically, perhaps just a very busy newish Brand company, who knows?
However, this replacement watch has performed exactly as it should, no issues at all and overall I’m pleased with it.
But that double deployment, though very nice and shiny as it is, is still a real pain to get the watch on your wrist. So, as the strap is actually a fine leather one, I have modified it to take a simple pin buckle. I removed the deployment, notched the short watch head end which allowed me to fit a polished stainless 14mm buckle with it’s spring bar and it is now perfect. It feels so much better, the watch/strap lies flatter on the wrist – in short – to my mind they would be better not bothering with that particular deployment. The watch to my mind has suddenly showed a proper classic style that wasn’t quite right before, but is now.
It will now be on my short rotation wrist wear plan (I have some 200 watches in my collection and I rotate wearing them), instead of just now and again, as at last it feels right.
So, overall I like the watch now with the quality strap is, for me, used as it should be. The watch functions as it should, it’s very nice to wear and regardless of where it’s made, assembled or whatever – I like it and its proved (after a slight hitch) itself to be a decent buy.
A revisited Post I did many moons ago, which was itself a revised Post from much earlier times, of an auction many years ago, when my watch collecting was still something new. And I’m Posting it here just as a reminder of the fun auction and watch collecting can be, even if you’re not mega rich, but you do have hopefully within your position in life, some modest goals and dreams.
Well, it was one of those days where you manage to do what you said you’d never do – and that’s impulse bidding at an auction. I mean there you are zeroing in on that little vintage model you’ve been after for ages, the estimate is just about do-able and you’ve got the cash in your pocket and Bam! Just your luck!
The bids are all of a sudden thick and fast, jumping between 5 or 6 damned phone lines and the floor bidders have suddenly woken up, to say the least – through the roof in fact and so far above your budget (stratospheric actually!) that you feel really quite inadequate – and completely out of your league. And before you know it, your day, so full of expectations is no more. Gone in a flash of someone else’s money and your item well out of reach – and just a silly, naive dream, as if . . . .
And then, just as you were about to go off for a shell-shocked sulk and a cup of coffee, the next item’s up – it’s been added to the auction – and, Hello? one that you’d never even noticed, such was your tunnel vision towards the previous one – and suddenly there’s this absolute gem – it’s there – right in front of you. . . . .
Wow! – I’ve been looking for any one of HIS – for ages! And the estimate is what? That’s not too bad you know – just maybe I could wing it and swing it! Then you think – oh oh, what’s wrong with it? Maybe it’s a “come and buy me” estimate to lead you on . . But no time to check it out . . . damn . . . . just typical!
Nothing much said in the description and that estimate seems awfully low, so big decision – do I take the chance?
And looking around I don’t see that anybody else has spotted it either, after the excitement of the one I missed. Half of them are still talking about the last one – so maybe. just maybe they haven’t seen it. After all, it was sandwiched between a series of big names, and that’s what most of the Dealers here were obviously snapping up – to resell at inflated big City prices.
You know the usual Omegas and Rolex’s (are they really that good?) and then Tag and the Muller – you get my drift. The inflated name game. But this one is just, well, sitting there, an addition to the published catalogue and almost hidden by the weight of the buzz names – so maybe . . . just maybe . . . .
Sod it! – I’ll have a go – what’s to lose? And this is a true collector’s illness – well I didn’t get the lot I came for, so I’ve saved money, haven’t I? So as I say, what’s to lose?
Well the first bid is just plain silly, derisory really and after that, it just creeps up. This, of course, in itself can be deceiving as it could suddenly take off, but sometimes, just sometimes it bombs and maybe without a reserve somebody gets themselves a real bargain. And that’s my hope here. So, wary of that possibility I quickly jump in don’t I – I mean it’s the obvious thing to do – because – you never know . . . and then after just a few bids and before you know it – it’s all over and the auctioneer is looking at the buyer, saying SOLD to . . . . . and I’m looking around like an idiot – SOLD to – as I catch his eye – Yes! it is – That’s MY number! – as I fumble with my auction “paddle” which was stuck in my jacket, ripping the pocket as I struggled to get hold of it and hold it up!
Wow! This is just so brilliant. I’ve just paid – HOW MUCH? (I can still hear the echo from my Wife’s shriek!) for something NOT on the menu and the auction is carrying on as if it never happened. Is this a dream or what? And was that my bank manager at the back of the auction house? Smirking as he turned away? I’m sure it was . . . . I never knew he even went to auctions . . .!
Anyway – it was no dream and you might just wonder what on earth I bought after all this excitement. Well here’s a clue or two . . . .
The watch was designed and signed by a guy who was perhaps one the best designers of watches – ever. In 1966 he designed the Universal Geneve Golden shadow range of watches, then in 1972 designed the Audemars Piquet Royal Oak and in 1976 the Patek Philippe’s Nautilus, then cases and dials of the Omega’s Constellations and
Seamasters. So quite a pedigree! He also contributed to the designs for the Ingéneur, The Pasha Cartier and the 222 Vacheron Constantin, Piaget, Chopard, and so on and on . . . .
He had his own Watch Company from 1969 till 1998 and another from 2001 under a different name. All his watch models are quirky, unique and novel, very technical and high specification and often quite expensive. Octagonal cases he particularly liked and played around with, even producing a Mickey Mouse model or two just for fun.
My model is from circa 1995, so bang in the middle of his best production period – and it’s actually quite rare! There’s only a handful been sold at auctions in the last 10 years and this one changed hands twice before it got to me. I love it as it shows off his unique style and is a perfect introduction into the Genta world.
OK, the watch goes as soon as it’s touched – always a good sign. The quick date pusher works perfectly – OK. I also noted that I couldn’t figure out how to set the Alarm time tried the upper crown but without success. However managed to get instructions online and it was simple simple, so all OK. Read on further to find out how.
The case is in very good condition – a tiny dint in the sapphire glass – OK, a screw missing from the stainless steel back (should be six only 5) – OK and the original leather strap (with tolerable wear) and deployment is for a large wrist – OK. So, it all looks fixable . . . . . .Phew! Note – the missing screw has since been fitted.
So after all that – here are a few images of my impulse buy.
Gerald Genta Bartolomeo Stainless Automatic Alarm Calendar.Bartolomeo 40mm diameter Alarm on the wrist
So, this is a Gerald Genta Bartolomeo Alarm Calendar watch with slate dial, gold filled numerals and markers, gold hour, minute and seconds hands plus a GG logo in gold on the red tipped Alarm pointer, which is on a central disc.
The Alarm function is by a central rotating disk and operated and set by the secondary capped 3 position Crown at between 1 & 2 o’clock.
The watch has an automatic Omega Cal. 980 19 jewel movement, so no winding required.
The time is set by the main/centre crown @3.
The mechanical Alarm is activated by upper crown(between 1 & 2) when pulled out one click. With the upper crown pulled out two clicks, it disengages the main crown from the hour and minute hands, which allows the main crown to set/move the Alarm pointer hand (disc) – in either direction. Pushing in the upper crown, re-engages the main crown to the hour and minute hands, as normal.
The alarm is as I said, mechanical and the sound is produced by a small hammer striking a gong attached to the movement. It is what I would call (and Omega said this too) a discrete sound and rather nice in comparison to the modern digital ones.
The watch (although automatic) can also be manually wound using the main crown.
Also of note is the fact this Alarm does not require winding – this is done automatically with the normal auto movement (one winding barrel suffices) and is operational again within an hour in normal wearing.
This is almost the same as the Omega Memomatic which shares the same 980 movement. The difference being the Memomatic has a second disc on the dial which indicates minutes, which allows it uniquely to be set precisely to the minute.
The clearly defined dial layout features a large Date aperture between 3 & 4 o’clock and there is a small quick set date adjuster, just below the 2 o’clock position on a small raised case mount, in the form of a small pusher.
The two piece slate dial has applied gilt luminous dot markers, with white minute markers plus gilt baton luminous filled hands. The bronze coloured bezel is secured with 4 screws. The crystal is Sapphire and slightly domed. The watch case is stainless steel, as is the back with said securing screws with the serial number & model details inscribed plus brand logo. The Gerard Genta logo is also featured on the red tipped Alarm pointer, which form part of the central slate disc on the dial.
The Gerald Genta original T bar leather strap has the original signed stainless steel double deployment clasp. Case diameter is 40mm ex. crowns. and 13mm thickness.
The very few previous auction sales I’ve seen for this model have been considerably higher, though metal specification obviously a factor. But I’m very happy I’ve got a bit of a bargain for what is a relatively rare model, so I’m really pleased with my impulse buy!
Gerald Genta watches are seen as an iconic brand and to actually have one is an unexpected surprise and a pleasure – and my Wife has forgiven me since she set eyes on it – she now likes it as much as I do.
Anyway, I suppose it’s all relevant – and whilst maybe a bargain, it was still quite expensive for me at the time.
But as my better half says, “Well you’re a watch collector dear. And we don’t want any old rubbish, do we?”
Update – The watch is still going strong and it never fails to make me smile when I pick it up after a dormant period (I don’t have winders) and it smoothly continues it’s seconds sweep, as if it was never idle. You don’t even have to waggle it a bit – nope – it just starts as you pick it up – what could be better?
Latest (April 2024) – I recently had the watch fully serviced – with a 2 year guarantee no less, no issues found and as good as it was when made – I am very pleased.
Been looking at some of my older models, actually I’m trying to thin out my collection. And it was when doing this I discovered quite a few watches, which on second thoughts, I decided against moving them on. Basically because first, I bought them for a reason and secondly, they are actually damned good watches. Not expensive, but models that haven’t really been bettered in practice. So I’m simply re-posting these, but with a Review Addendum dated now, at the end, with an update on how I see them today –
The first is – posted 2012 and reviewed (see addendum) today.
Year 2012 – Can’t think why I haven’t posted this watch before as I wear it often enough, especially when off on weekend trips and so on. Somewhere that I don’t have my bedside clock and need or certainly prefer in the middle of the night to be able to tell the time immediately. Of course Tritium light source watches are the answer. Non of this Superluminova that seems to vary in consistency between manufacturers, but a light emitting source that is bright, bright, bright! To this end I have to show you the UZI –
The Uzi Defender – 001-N – Tritium
Not a bad looking watch at all and especially when you consider it has Tritium illumination, a military look and here fitted to a black matching silicon deployment strap. I’ve had this one for quite a few years now and it still impresses me as to it’s accuracy and it’s ability to still look as new as the day I bought it!
Hardened Mineral Crystal in a tough resin case, screw down crown with a Water Resistance of 200m (that’s 660ft), a black dial plus a one way rotating outer bezel, can’t be at all bad and especially for the price – I seem to recall somewhere around £70.00. It is a decent size too at 43mm diameter and 14mm depth, but it wears SMALL – it simply does not look big – probably as across the crystal face is only 28mm – but that doesn’t seem to detract from the fact that it’s really quite easy and clear to read despite the UZI yellow logo just below 12.
Easy read face of the Uzi Defender – Note the light source points.
This particular older model is all black unlike I believe the current ones which have an olive green bezel perhaps? though I prefer the darker look and the night ability is exceptional. The tritium light source capsules are @12, 3, 6 and 9 – the hour and minute hands are also “tubed” light source and the natty center second hand is red tipped with a luminous coated tip, which although in the dark is not as bright – it can be seen. The @12 position has double tubes and is not green as the other points, but orange. Note there are also luminous dots on the hours. So this watch is definitely for those who like the darker side!
Mated to a black ribbed silicon deployment strap.
A screw down crown (as you would expect with this WR), and interestingly as I understand it this particular model at the time I bought it stated just a quartz movement with Swiss components. I have to say whatever it is, it has been superb. Maybe not a Ronda, but it works VERY well and the proof as they say . . . .
The fact that this is resin cased means it is very light indeed and very, very tough. No marks on this one at all, so it wears extremely well. And here I have to mention the price again.
This is one really good value watch, especially when you consider it has the light source illumination and when put against others with this system – and I even mean the others in the Uzi range. It is available currently in Stainless steel – but at a premium £150.00, then there’s black stainless steel at £165.00 and to cap it all, a Titanium one at up around £230.00!
To me I really can’t see these premiums at all – this model shown here at the price I bought it for, does the business – hands down. And most metals scratch with use – and this? – well – it doesn’t! It’s also very lightweight and tough and with the silicon strap it will certainly do me a long, long time.
And against other manufacturers, such as Traser, or Nite, or Smith and Wesson, or Swiss Military and Luminox and so on, it represents tremendous value and I have to applaud them for it.
4 point screw down sealed back – 200m WR.
Now after all this – I was sure I had posted this watch here before, but I’m unable to find it on my site at all – so maybe this was one I deleted inadvertently a year or so back – whatever. I post or re-post it here anyway and I’ll treat it as a “re-visit” after some years of quite extended use and say again what a smart, value watch this has and continues to be. I’m off on a trip soon and guess what? I’ll be taking this with me – Oh Yes!
Addendum – 6th August 2023
Last reviewed 2012 and it’s still working perfectly and the last battery fitted was way back in 2019 and it’s still going, so power wise it seems to be very low usage. Perhaps as everything about this watch is so light.
The Lume (Tritium) is still good and accuracy is as good as I need. Shows the time and the date and is still very water resistant at 200m, not a bad spec’ for a cheap watch at the end of the day.
It’s one of these models that appears to have got everything right at the best possible price – and today that is worth a lot!”
However, I thought I’d have a look at Tissot, 11 years on and have to say, they really have moved on! Same fundamentals, but really updated to part smart watch to whatever you need it to be. Awesome.
Watch space 
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