Interpretations?

Funny how two entirely different interpretations can be arrived at when faced with one single remit or requirement. In this case the remit is for a watch with an illuminator or to be more precise, a torch feature. Not just a dial light but a light that can be used like a torch – quite a practical idea actually and probably more useful than many of the features that modern watches sometimes end up with.

Well – there’s no question here – this is a Watch with a Torch – and about as basic as you’ll get.The torch obviously at the top which and the watch, timer etc on the lower segment is – well – amazing! I have to confess that the first time I saw this I laughed, then realized it did have a strap and was supposed to be worn on the wrist and was in fact, a serious item . . . but pretty obviously not from a watch maker, but a tool maker and I have to admit it does exactly what it’s supposed to do – a watch and a torch! What could be simpler?

So how was the requirement met by a watch manufacturer, indeed a Swiss one at that? Well I have to admit that this particular manufacturer came up trumps with this wonderful creation – AND thought about it seriously. This is the Victorinox Swiss Army 241569 Night Vision Gents Watch and is something rather special.

Victorinox Swiss Army 241569 Night Vision Gents Watch

Superb looking watch and as the toolmakers effort above, it too has a torch at the top, on the case @12, pointing along the bracelet and so neatly crafted it is barely noticeable at all. The torch light is activated by pressing the button @8:30 position on the left side of the case. The number or presses dictates the function – either the dial light (a wonderful blue neon) or the torch or even a strobe for emergency use.

As you can see in the above image, the light produced is really quite substantial and very practical in lighting up a dark space – handy for that front door lock after a night out on the town. And you don’t have to worry too much about the battery life as this watch has two batteries – one for the lights and one for the Swiss Quartz Ronda 705 movement. The watch has triple coated anti-reflection on the sapphire crystal and full luminous hands and markers, plus, and I think perhaps this is overkill, as it also has a superb dial lighting system. Put it this way – you will definitely be able to read this watch in the dark!

There are a few other bits and pieces on this model, but suffice to say it does show as my title suggests that there’s more than one way to interpret the remit of “What about a watch with a torch on it” requirement.

Now they both manage to meet the requirement very well and obviously there is a price differential here and ultimately you decide for yourself which is for you – but one thing is certain – you have a choice! I know which one is for me, but being a watch guy it’s pretty obvious and I love gadgets anyway. So the “Stanley” whilst it might be OK for my toolbox, I just can’t see me wearing it on my night out – so Victorinox it has to be.

Note – The Victorinox Night Vision model first appeared in 2003 and was re-vamped with the model shown here in 2012 and is still current and available.

Longines GMT

Fairly new addition to my little Longines collection is this nice Longines Lindberg GMT World Timer model and it’s one that already I find myself wearing frequently.

At 38mm by 11mm depth it is a good size and fits me perfectly, but the feature that really makes me love this watch is the sheer quality of the entire watch. In fact the closer you get to it, the better it becomes.

I particularly like the complete look of this model and whilst a neat size it does have a solid look to it, enhanced by the milled edge outer bi-directional brushed steel bezel with the World Time City zones around it. The bezel does have a click position only at GMT London. The watch case in contrast is generally polished Stainless Steel with an exhibition back. The Water Resistance is 3 atm.

Curve cut enamel date window with GMT disc wheel outer index — Bevel cut enamel date window with GMT disc wheel outer index

Looking closely at the dial you can see that the main numerals dial is enamel and the date window is beautifully cut and chamfered through the enamel.

The black numerals and blue GMT indexes are also perfectly and evenly applied and the very fine GMT chapter disc moves silently with the main hands indicating 24-hour time. Using this in conjunction with the single click hour hand adjust, it’s simple to set your local time to the city required on the outer bezel. Interestingly using when adjusting the time, the hands can be moved either way, hours, minutes, date and 24hr GMT indications can move forward or back. If going back a day, the date simply clicks back one day. This is something I’ve personally not noticed on a mechanical movement before and is very useful.

This way your hands can be quickly adjusted to show local time and the 24-hour ring shows GMT – so a lovely and clever mechanical World Timer without electronics that sits snug on your wrist.

Comfortable on the wrist and a sensible size at 38mm diameter.

The crystal is Longines Sapphire with a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale (by comparison Mineral glass is only 6.5) and on this model is subtly curved and quite invisible such is the quality of finish and a corresponding sapphire crystal back shows the very excellent 33 jewel Longines L635.3 Automatic movement (this is based on the ETA 2824/2 base calibre).

Longines L635.3 Swiss Automatic 33 Jewel movement

With a center seconds hand and a movement beating at 28,800AH it is very definitely a “sweep” hand and with the gold finely turned colored center giving a subtle contrast to the dark blue infill hands, this is a fine looking and well balanced watch. It is really quite elegant.

Longines Lindberg GMT World Time with original slate/blue Croco strap

A 3 position Onion crown is a nice size, well figured and easy to use and the strap is the original Longines Croco leather in a sort of slate blue, stamped and signed with a stainless milled buckle.

GMT Word Time City zones bezel - GMT rotating 24hr disc, Hour Numerals — GMT Word Time City zones bezel – GMT rotating 24-hour disc, Hour Numerals

Onion Crown with stainless bi-directional Zone bezel

Setting instructions (Longines) –Fortunately Longines have an excellent web site where this setting information and movement data is freely available, so even though I bought this pre-owned without instruction papers and so on. it was quite easy to download the relevant information as above.

http://www.longines.com/watches/instructions

http://www.longines.com/watches/technical-information

Their web site covers a wide range of models and is very useful – I have copied these to my Tech Info page as a permanent reference.

So, am I happy with my purchase?

Absolutely! I have to say I’m delighted by it and the price does reflect the quality of the this model and in my opinion, well worth it. I have seen pre-owned models for sale from £750 to £1400 dependent on condition. This particular one is in MINT perfect condition and is absolutely in as new as you can get, so I’m well pleased and against the price range I quote here, I did VERY well on my recent trip in Europe.

I have 5 Longines models now and hoping next to perhaps increasing my Jaeger LeCoultre collection, so I’m looking. But will I manage to procure one here in the UK at a decent price? Well that is very debatable I have to say and becoming increasingly more difficult, so perhaps another trip is called for . . . . . . . . maybe.

Size and sense

I’m always somewhat amused when I see watch size being discussed on forums, or to be more accurate, when someone asks if a watch size of say 34mm or 32mm is too small for a gents watch. The answers generally range from “anything under 42mm is for wimps!” to more macho rubbish such as “you’re not a man if you wear anything under 45mm, sport!”.

My own particular argument is simple – a slim guy maybe 5’ 6” tall doesn’t go into a Tailor and come out wearing a jacket that’s a 44″ long – does he? And he doesn’t look too good in those 46” waistband standard 33” length trousers either – does he? Small feet? Well size 12’s ain’t going to do it!

Of course not. You get what fits – simple.

18ct Rose Gold Jaeger-LeCoultre at just under 34mm looks just fine.

If you have a small wrist such as my own at 170mm circumference then you get a watch that fits comfortably and doesn’t look like someone who’s just lost 50lbs in weight on the latest diet fad. For example my old PP Calatrava is just under 36mm and no-one has yet commented that it looks like a ladies watch and my 33mm Omega mid/small Constellation doesn’t seem to bother anyone. My old Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre and my Movado all at 33mm or 34mm look just fine – (see the JL above).

In fact it in certain circumstances it can be a distinct advantage financially, as most of the top makers make ladies versions too (the aforementioned models are all gents models, by the way) and they are every bit the same as the larger gents models, but far neater and often far more affordable! In fact I’m rather pleased that my wrists are not Neanderthal, but a sensible size and where the smaller sized watch is just about perfect.

Some say that if you want a sports model, this is tricky – but not so as a little bit of simple searching usually finds a few around that are not too big. There are even plenty of “Dive” watches under 40mm and even with my small wrist I can manage up to 42mm, even 43mm if the case isn’t too deep – and still not look retarded! To make the case I show the following images here of watches that are all under 40mm diameter and none of them look silly on my wrist, in fact they are perfectly sized. You’ll note that even Rolex are included in my image list. And if you set the bracelets and straps to fit properly, so they don’t dangle the watch from the wrist these will fit the bill just fine. So many folks can’t or won’t get the bracelets models adjusted, which is like getting a new car with leather seats and covering them with plastic sheet, then you sell the car and some other guy gets the thrill of those lovely seats – and you didn’t. And I kid you not then I say I’ve seen some watches that are so loose they clatter against table tops during meals to others that slide down (or up) the wrists when driving. They also turn around uncontrollably on the wrist, so much so that when you want to see the time, you can’t . . .

It’s so simple – if you have a small wrist, wear a small wristwatch to suit and be happy.

And (doh!) if you have large wrists – then fine, get a BIGGER watch . . . . you get the picture? But don’t knock the rest of us . . .

Octagon from Russia

Featured this watch on “What’s on the wrist, this week” but thought I’d post it here as an update as it’s just that little bit unusual.

An unusual and stylized Raketa, made in USSR probably in the 1980s from the Petrodvorets Watch Factory in St. Petersburg. This manufacturer started to produce their own movements and this brand name Raketa from around 1961/2, though the Company is in fact much older, starting life in 1721 under Peter the Great as the Peterhof Lapidary Works. Such was the popularity of Raketa, they actually manufactured over 4.5 million watches a year even in the 1980’s and exported all over the world.

Unusual textured face and octagonal case, Day and Date watch.

Now I’ve always liked Russian watches basically as they are really quite different from the Swiss mainstream, are often of unusual design and have that Russian lettering on the face – and not everyone has that! And whilst they may at first glance appear a bit rough, in fact rough and ready some would say, certainly the vintage ones, they are often remarkably well made internally (certainly those from the better makers) and all the models I have keep remarkably good time. They also represent extremely good value in comparison to many, especially when you consider these are mostly mechanical, not quartz. In fact to buy a Swiss watch of the same mechanical quality it will cost you considerably more. A friend of mine used to say that most of his Russian watches looked like a pair of Levis – they were made to look “worn”. His new Russian watches looked like his old Swiss ones after being in the cutlery drawer for a year or two!

But seriously, they may often look a little rough around the edges, but don’t be fooled – you want a good solid mechanical watch? You could do a lot worse I assure you!

Why can't they all have this niche to get the back off? — Why can’t they all have this niche to get the back off?

This model features the mechanical hand wound Raketa 19 jewel 2628.H movement, which keeps really excellent time. In fact this is a feature common to many Russian models I’ve found over the years and watches from the old Soviet block were and are very much underrated. The modern collections are somewhat better cosmetically I suppose, better access to quality metals and machine technology and so on, but the vintage mechanical ones for me are something special.

This model has a window @3 for the day and date, the latter adjusted by pulling out the spring loaded crown – each pull changes the date by one. The day is set by moving the hands. It also has a shock proof balance and dust protection case.

About one of the only negatives I’ve found with the older Russian watches are the straps and bracelets used. I often, though not always, find them quite poor and so it was with this one, the original bracelet was an inflexible steel strap affair that was very difficult to put on, being so stiff, and the clamp length adjuster virtually impossible to manage. It was also one of the most uncomfortable straps I’ve ever worn.

The Raketa Octagonal (my name for it) - unusual, different - I wear it! — The Raketa Octagonal (my name for it) – unusual, different – I wear it!

So I fitted a simple black quality leather strap, which compliments the watch style nicely, matching the black colored top casing surface. The case by the way is steel and the upper and lower lug areas have polished black inserts added to the top surface, as shown in the above image, which protect partly what looks like maybe a perspex glass box like octagonal shaped crystal.
The dial is composed of two different textures, one horizontal, the other vertical with applied gold colored square minute markers plus printed application numerals at 12 and 6, with a Day and Date window @3. The hands are straight silver toned and the seconds sweep hand colored black. It all works rather well funnily enough and the watch face is easy and very clear to read.

The watch back is a snap fit steel with a opening “niche” to make it easier to remove and a feature I wish others would emulate.

So all in all an excellent USSR made Raketa and one which I’m very pleased to have in my “Russian” box. But it is also a watch I find myself wearing remarkably often as it does what it’s supposed to do very well. It keeps VERY good time, it winds easily and firmly, it has a surprisingly good power reserve and it’s never let me down in all the years I’ve had it.

What more can I say? Well it won’t be the last USSR watch I get – of that I am very sure!

Aktiv Skagen

This is the Titanium Aktiv Skagen Mesh SKW6007 Gents model.

The question has to be – Will it suit my purpose and is the quality good enough not to give me problems (or someone else if you “flip” it) over the next 5 years or so? However when you consider that the average guy might change or buy a new watch anywhere from weekly to maybe a current “grail” one in 10 years, the issue of longevity is somewhat irrelevant. OK if you spend thousands or indeed many thousands then the issue, question and answer will take care of itself!

Anyway this is about finding a modern thin dress watch at low/mid price, so choice wise almost inevitably quartz ( there are vintage mechanical ones around of course ). So I looked and surprise, surprise, I did find a Skagen model that I like the look of and I feature it here.

Skagen Aktiv Titanium Day/Date Watch SKW6007

I’ve seen them advertised of course and there are a few stockists around which is not too surprising as they’ve been about since 1989, marketing thin quartz watches in their “Denmark” style design, though in the past I’ve never taken to this rather thin minimalist look. I tended to find the dials were rather bland and often too reflective for my personal taste, but if thin is what you want, then certainly they’re worth checking out. Mid price models and the quality is average/good I’d say, though whilst I have no information on the Quartz movement in this model, I understand they feature within the range some Swiss movements and assemble them in the US. However misinformation abounds, as I’ve also heard they use Asian movements and Far East assembly, so in short I really don’t know. Interesting to me is the fact that Fossil have taken over Skagen Designs and already owning two Fossil watches myself, which I like and where the quality is just fine – this is encouraging.

Neat 2 screw fit bracelet. Note the small smooth crown. — Neat 2 screw per lug fit bracelet. Note the small and unfortunately smooth crown.

Nice size at 40mm diameter and only 7mm depth, so is certainly thin and sits flat on the wrist. The case as described is Titanium, though when you fist pick it up you realize the mesh bracelet is Stainless Steel and a substantial one at that. It is fully and easily adjustable and appears good quality. The case design is rather neat with a faceted top bezel in alternate shiny and mat finish, the full width lugs are mat finish and the bracelet/band fits via two countersunk screws on each lug. The watch is described as 50m Water Resistant and comes with hardened Mineral Glass.

The dial is a slightly brown grey color and reasonably mat and the outer minute index baton markers are applied luminous material with black outlines, including the numerals 12 and 6 – these are on a raised ring within the dial. The inner part of the dial features another index ring as a narrow 1mm band in Orange background with black numbers as 05, 10, 15 and so on minute markers. It’s actually quite a neat and clear feature. The hour and minute hands are of thin straight chrome with luminous indents on each. The center seconds hand is also chrome but with a 2mm long Orange tip and there is a Day and Date window @3 with black lettering against white. The watch setting crown is also @3 inset into the watch case. It is quite small I note and has no knurling so can be a little fiddly to turn, but manageable. This model sets like most of this type – pull out to the first click and depending on which way you turn , moves the Day or the Date. Pull out to the second position to set the hands. So Instructions are hardly necessary. However in saying that, Skagen have included an Instruction booklet, International Guarantee card with a Lifetime (limited) Warranty, Service Center location booklet and nice box and watch display pillow, so is rather better catered for than Fossil, who take a minimalist approach to information, rather than product! I mention Fossil as they own Skagen Designs now. Fossil take note.

Full compliment of booklets, Warranty Card and box

I took a few images of this model which highlight the fact that build quality appears reasonable, though whether I’ll personally adapt to a mesh strap is unknown – The last mesh I had was not a success comfort wise, so time will tell with this one. Further on the “Lifetime Warranty” – I note this does not cover the glass or the bracelet, nor the battery.

Any downsides?

I suppose the fact the bracelet is NOT Titanium is a pity as I expected the whole thing to be Ti and lightweight. (my Breitling Aerospace has a Titanium case and bracelet and for for 15 years the bracelet’s become smoother over time and is simply the most comfortable one I have).

Mesh Stainless Steel bracelet and easy adjust clasp with fold-over lock.

Good quality locking clasp - full adjustable. — Good quality locking clasp – full adjustable.

Of course time will tell if this is a good purchase, but it seems to look the part and has not disappointed in the flesh as it were. I did spot another model that might be of interest, but thinking on it further, for me anyway – I just have this feeling that maybe one Skagen is enough. Don’t get me wrong, I like it but this minimalist Danish inspired design still doesn’t really do it for me and maybe this is a fault of their success – the models are all very “similar” and have this unmistakable family look – and well I’m not so sure. Maybe variety is needed somewhere along the way – but that’s such a personal thing, it’s probably just me.

But for me, one Skagen in the stable – this is fine and I’m sure I’ll be pleased with it, as a dress watch – on occasion.

UPDATE – 1st May 2013

Been wearing the watch for a few weeks now and have to say I am surprisingly delighted with it. It IS comfortable to wear and it does look good. Perhaps the dial also has something to say about that. It is a little unusual I suppose when compared with other Skagen models in that it has a neat and clear color scheme, is not reflective and to my surprise the luminous hands can be seen at night. Many of these models with very thin hands and commensurately narrow luminous paint, fall down in this respect. So I’m very happy with my eventual choice.

I just might consider another Skagen, but I’ll take the same care over selection as I did on this one as it’s all too easy to get a thin handed, reflective dialed, low contrast model with very poor legibility – but avoid those negatives and you could be very surprised and pleased. I know I am . . . .

Aerospace favourite

Thought I’d re-post this after 20 years of ownership (first Posted in 2013, bought in 1999 or 2000) in reference my Breitling Aerospace (Repetition Minutes) model as a reminder of how good this old watch was and still is.

Just realised the other day that I’ve never actually posted about my favourite daily beater I’ve worn for the last 15 years. My Breitling Aerospace Titanium I bought when on a business trip to Glasgow (Scotland). After some lunch I happened to be strolling past a jewellers and there it was and I simply loved it – went in with no hesitation and bought it. And I still think it was and still is the best and most practical watch purchase I ever made.

1999 Aerospace - a classic — 1999? Aerospace (Repetition Minutes) – a single crown chronograph classic

Now some folks think Breitling watches are big, flashy and cumbersome, but with this model nothing could be further from the truth. It’s titanium, it’s very light and unlike many of today’s current crop, it’s very slim at just 9mm in depth and a case diameter of only 40mm. With the matching titanium solid link bracelet it’s quite a combination. It slips unobtrusively under a shirt for dress occasions but also is the business when it comes to everyday wear – AND it’s probably a statement too. This particular version has a quite subtle dial green colour with high contrast numerals and markers.

On the wrist - perfect. After 15 years it needs a clean!! — Taken today – On the wrist – perfect. After 15 years it needs a clean!!

Dial wise – Clarity is all with this watch – the date is the clearest to read of any watch I know with an excellent anti-reflection coated flat sapphire crystal – and slim hands with the so very clever counter balance extension of the minute hand over the centre pivot, which makes it so clear when reading the time – plus a nigh on perfect and understated luminous capability at night – it’s about as good as any watch can get in my opinion. The top bezel is click set in two directions and is Titanium as the rest of the watch ensemble. ( Yikes! – these darned close ups – just noticed how dirty it is after 15 years of almost continuous wear ).

Titanium at it's best case and solid link (diver extendable) bracelet. — Titanium at it’s best case and solid link (diver extendable) bracelet.

The twin digital display is perhaps one of the clearest I’ve ever seen. It is bright in all light conditions and has a built in fluorescence that makes the numerals stand out perfectly. The lower double height digital display shows everything you need – either set as shown with Day and Date, Date and Seconds, or Seconds, Alarm time, Chronograph, Current or Dual Time and Timer – the upper display shows which feature is set. I usually have it set as shown with Day and Date and rarely use the other features, though the Dual Time can be useful on holiday as can the Alarm though these days I prefer a vibration alarm however – as the old hearing is going!

And this particular version is also what’s called a “repetition minutes” – this provides a sonic indication of the hours and minutes simply by pressing on the crown, when the watch display is either showing the neutral (blank digitals) or the local time display, the seconds-date display or the day-date position. Great when I bought it, but these days I don’t hear too well, so not such a great use for me now. 😦

Another aspect of this watch is the fact that even with all these functions, it only has a single crown, the operation of which has always been perfect. The usual chronograph style pushers and buttons are quite superfluous and is the feature I prefer most over all other chronograph models.
All this is due to the quartz movement used in this model – the E10.391, 7 jewels and it’s managed to perform without a hitch for all this time. I understand the movement can be updated, though at a fair cost I believe and possibly with a replacement back as dimensionally the replacement is slightly thicker – though fortunately quite unnecessary in my case.

I said that clarity was terrific on this watch and this is it shown against some of my other models as a comparison –

The clearest of them all! — I think the Breitling (left) – is the clearest of them all!

The Breitling on the left shows just how good the anti-reflection coating is and how clever the hands/display clarity actually is and note how the digits stand out – it always impresses me! The Citizen Attesa in the centre another favourite is also pretty good but none can compare when doing the quick glance and reading the date.

Another good point about this Aerospace – it’s actually gone up in value – so a good buy and a good investment. Not that I’ll realise any profit of course ‘cos it ain’t for sale! The profit for me is the sheer pleasure of wearing what has to be my favourite watch.

However, as with everything, there’s always something I find annoying. With this watch, if it needs a battery change (shown by the digits flashing), which on this model is well over 5 years I’ve found, Breitling recommend sending it to them. But this is expensive, though in fairness I did this the first time it needed a battery and they changed the face and whatever else, cleaned it and so on, so perhaps was worth it.
But today (yesterday actually 10/05/2020) I simply snapped off the back, changed out the 977 battery, ensured the back was replaced with the correct positioning of the round depression inside the back plate above the battery, snapped the back on again, then reset the date, month, day, time etc.

And that is my annoyance. The fact that the single crown is a b*****d to operate. Months adjust with a fast spin of the crown as do some other adjustments, others are with a slow turn and frankly the fast spin is very, very difficult to manage. This is down with the crown out, but it come out very little, so not much to grip – it is just a fiddly thing to do – and I hate it!

Fortunately I shouldn’t have to do it again for at least 5 years, so that’s the good part. Leap years have to be accounted for, but OK I can live with that.

But overall, this is still the best watch I’ve ever had, it’s time keeping is excellent, it reads so easily and it has more features on it than I’ll ever need, that are so well hidden within it, it is a wonderful design and Breitling have in my opinion not bettered it – not even close!

Day/Date affordables

When looking for affordable everyday analogue watches I always try and find features that make life easier. OK you get a model that tells you the time, but so useful on an everyday basis to be able to see the Day and the Date. Probably nothing else is near as important as these useful features. Here I’ve posted 3 models that caught my eye as fulfilling that day/date function and at an affordable cost.

First up – is the Swatch Black Rebel – a true “designer” watch no less and under £50.00.

Swatch Black "Rebel" designer Day Date. — Swatch Black “Rebel” designer Day Date.

A neat sized gents model at 41mm diameter and 12mm depth, rubber strap and a resin case. Day and Date window @3 orange highlighted and the bonus of luminous hour and minute hands and a center seconds. Swiss Quartz movement.

A Casio Collection Quartz model at a very low price follows – also Day and Date window @3, outer bezel with minuted markings, large dot markers and infill hands plus center seconds. Means a nice clear watch to read in most light. Also a god size at 42mm diameter and 12mm depth plus a real bonus of 100m Water Resistance. Price wise I’ve seen this for around £16.00 which is amazing.

Not to be outdone Timex also have this model Quartz analogue Day and date window @3, black hands against white, good contrast and very legible, red center seconds hand. Water Resistance at 30m pretty decent too and at around £30.00 is again really good value.

So it really is possible to get yourself pretty decent quality watches with the added features of Day and Date at very reasonable cost, without going to the extremes of unknown or obscure makes with perhaps less than confident service issues. The main players have it well in hand and can provide a decent priced alternative to the cheap digitals on the market. It’s sometime nice to see a simple clock face and hands, a day and a date – all without pressing buttons – plus these can be seen more easily that most when propped up on the bedside cabinet. And there are quite a few others around if you check them out. The trouble with these guys is that for everyday use it’s difficult to see past them – and for a watch collector that’s bad news!!! Great watches for holidays or indeed for life . . . . . .

Note the Swatch is splash resistant only.

The Decker

This is my second Fossil watch and have to say I’m really quite pleased with this one as well. This model is from the “Decker” range, the AM4384 Black silicon Strap Date watch.

Fossil "Decker" silicon strap watch AM4384 — Fossil “Decker” silicon strap watch AM4384

This is an Analogue/Quartz model and it certainly has good presence on the wrist. A good solid build in Stainless Steel, polished sides with mat lug upper surfaces plus a neat black fixed bezel top with white minute markings. The dial is black and the hands broad white luminous painted with a black center seconds hand topped with a white dot marker. The minutes are noted by use of white luminous batons and the date window is @3 with black background and white date numbers. Whilst the flat crystal is not specified as anti-reflective, it IS remarkably clear and scores VERY highly in the clarity stakes.
I also note the center seconds and and white dot pretty well match up with the markers on the dial – something that many more expensive watches should, but often don’t manage, which is nice to see. I like that.

Solid Stainless Steel build + flexible silicon strap

Checking the dimensions of this model it’s 43mm diameter (ex crown), 13mm depth, weighs 92gms with strap and interestingly it’s one of those models that looks “neat” on the wrist – a really good trick if it can be achieved – as here! Well done Fossil.

All in all an excellent dial design for optimum clarity, reminiscent of my Laco and a very practical style that’s increasingly finding its way into my watch collection.

The back as usual with Fossil is a flat polished mirror like stainless steel finish and because it’s flat it doesn’t travel on the wrist.

The usual Fossil clean stainless screw back. Note the quick release strap.

The lovely flexible silicon strap with brushed stainless buckle is a delight to wear – a feature I noted on the “Machine Ana Digital” model I already own. The watch is marked on the dial (and the back) as 10ATM (100ft) Water Resistant and the back also sports the Model Number and Serial code.

Brushed stainless steel buckle with Fossil logo.

Time setting – To alter the date pull out the large crown to position 2 and move in either direction to set the date to the day PRIOR to the one you wish to set. Then pull the crown out to position 3 and turn anti-clockwise to move the date to the correct date and then continue to the correct time. I note the crown does not “click” into any position, but simply moves, which is a little disconcerting – but it seems to function OK.

Flat back comfort comfortable and a perfect size.

In conclusion I would comment this is a very fine watch and indeed it puts others to shame with it’s overall finish, build quality and design. I would further comment and say I’m very impressed with quite a number of Fossil watches over the past couple of years as they’re making a habit of producing models that are very attractive, a slightly butch look but without being ostentatious or silly. Not only a fashion watch as some might say and to me Fossil are pretty serious watch maker now.

To sum up this watch in one word I’d have to say “quality”. It is a seriously good watch, especially for the money.

Classic Expedition

An early digital Expedition Timex is featured in this post, dated around 1998 (80 M745) in pretty decent all round condition. The digital display is clear and basically as good as the day it was bought. Classed as a Chronograph model the features are more or less what you get in the current Expedition models.

1998 Timex Expedition digital display normal daylight.

Digital display wise – Standard view is along the lower part, hours, minutes and seconds plus an AM/PM indicator and the upper part shows Day, Month and Date. Using the lower left pusher or “mode”, this changes the display in turn to Chronograph (with slit/lap timing), Alarm, Timer (100hrs) and 2nd Time Zone, in that order. This model also features a 12/24hr display option and an Hourly Chime. It has a night light (Indiglo) using the top left pusher which is on as long as the pusher is pressed. All setting is done using the lower right pusher and the top right pusher selects Alarm on or off etc. So quite familiar really to anyone used to using these digital display watches. Note in the images shown here the display shows grey background and black numerals when light is not being reflected off it, however its almost fluorescent when the light strikes at some angles and then appears very high contrast green background with black numerals.

Timex digital display in reflecting light - gives fluorescent contrast — Timex digital display in reflecting light – gives fluorescent contrast

In most conditions it’s pretty good though as most of these, the top data can be slightly over-shadowed by the black surround of the watch face. Still featured on some current watches, though I note many now have a visible face area wider than the numerals, so avoiding any possibility of shadows.

It’s a very neat watch at 39mm diameter and only 9mm depth, so a good bit smaller than current Expedition models. It has spring bars so you can fit any standard strap to it, though it actually measures a slightly non standard, but gettable, 19mm width. I have a Timex “E” quick wrap strap fitted and it is perfect and comfortable.

Timex Expedition on the wrist - very neat. — Timex Expedition on the wrist – very neat.

In a dark almost black resin case, light grey bezel with printed pusher data, the back has a stainless steel plate secured by 4 x corner screws and has it has 100m Water Resistance.

1998 v 2012/13 - watches are getting bigger. — 1998 v 2012/13 – watches are getting bigger.

Some of the older Timex models like this one, for me, are often nicer to wear than the present offerings. Only 15 years before the current stuff (an age in electronics of course) the displays funnily enough tended to be neater, as are the watches which were smaller and slimmer and yet managed to portray the excitement of the new Digital age without bulk or large knurled or knobbly bits here and there. They were and still are science fiction in a way, because they’re ground breaking and the core function and the attraction of the watch is not obscured by too much over the top and perhaps unnecessary Dr Who extravagance. Note this model has a battery life of around 6.5 years.

I might yet add more to my digital collection, though perhaps it could be more appropriate to call it my Timex collection, as I seem to be acquiring more of these by the week! Whatever – I’m sure it won’t be the last!

UPDATE – 4th August 2014

Started to get a little erratic this morning and I decided to check out and hopefully replace the battery – assuming this was the problem. Removed the 4 back screws and realized this was a different style of module that I am used to. The centre part is a round cover which is actually clipped on to the very large CR2016 battery! The cover is held down by 3 screws to the module board. Simply removed these and un-clipped the battery from the cover once it was in my hand. Replaced the battery by clipping the cover over it, then dropped the cover and battery assembly on to the board, lining up the 3 screw holes and screwed it back in place. Writing on the cover says to “press this” to reset after battery change, referring I think to small metal contact on the module. However on turning the watch over I saw that the digits were indicating fine, so skipped that instruction. Replaced the back of the watch and set the time data. All functions are working perfectly now including the back light, which actually was the first problem I saw prior to replacing the battery. Instead of lighting, it indicated code and altered the time setting to 12:00. This I suspected was the lack of power – hence the battery change today. It took me about 10 minutes start to finish.

Sorry I didn’t think to take photographs, but suffice to say it was very easy to manage.

WARNING – always remember that often CR2016 batteries and most of them these days tend to come in blister packs – AND there is a small sticker on the negative side of the battery. Make sure you remove it before fitting to the watch – otherwise it won’t connect and you will spend a while wondering why the watch doesn’t work!
And yes, most of us who manage our own battery changes know this – of course we do – BUT it is VERY easy to forget!

Cheap discs

A friend of mine appeared the other day with a new watch they’d got as a fun addition to their main birthday gift and was keen to show it off to me.
This is a disc watch that shows the passage of time not with conventional hands but uses flat discs instead. Not that this is a particularly new concept as I have a few myself including some vintage models, but this one is a sort of retro/modernist model and I show it to you today basically for one particular reason which I’ll share at the end of the review.

Disc watch from Zuricht – and the time is 1:54 and 31 seconds.

I’ve seen a few disc watches round and some are better than others. Some are also cheaper than others, though in this case (so far at any rate) this does not mean they are any less of a functioning disc watch. This model from Zuricht (via Amazon) is not a bad looking watch, it slips so well under a cuff and here’s the first good point – because the display is offset to the right and if like me you wear your watch on the left wrist it is perfect. So many other disc watches have the display at the top or even to the left and are not so easy to read quickly – here just a glimpse from under the shirt cuff and there it is.

On the wrist - looks good with display at right side of case. — On the wrist – looks good with display at right side of case.

The watch itself is neat at 43mm wide (45mm top to bottom) and only 8.9mm depth, so is really slim to wear. The entire watch is in black gloss finish steel and the case top is slightly curved as is the large clear plastic face. The time window is 15mm x 18mm so is a good size to enable a decent view.

The bracelet is black finish stainless steel and fully adjustable. For smaller wrists, adjusting is by way of split pins, which can be pushed out of each segment and these can be removed to reduce the overall size. These should be pushed out from the solid end of the pin – and when replacing push in from the split end and usually have to be tapped in with a protected face small hammer or similar. It sounds a little more difficult than it is, but is quite easy to manage with a bit of care and common sense. Your local watchman will do it in a few minutes. The bracelet is a fairly standard fold over clasp with a double push button clasp which works very well.

The watch back is plain stainless steel and a snap fit. There is no mention of Water Resistance, but as with most snap fittings I would NOT recommend using it in water. If it doesn’t say – it isn’t – in other words don’t shower when wearing it!

Solid stainless fold over adjustable segment bracelet.

As to the function if the watch, I’ve found it to be excellent. The display shows 3 discs which are colored white with black numbers and the outer Hours disc has larger numbers than the inner Minute disc, which graduate in size down to the continually rotating Seconds disc, which is more or less in the center of the watch. Although the discs have no graduations, it is actually unnecessary as it is very easy to read the time accurately. All the discs rotate, the most obvious being the Seconds which ticks round constantly, the others of course rotate, but much slower.

Accuracy wise it’s apparently a Japanese Quartz movement and is as good as most quartz models with mechanical indicators – such as hands or discs.

Quality –

Whilst the case, bracelet and general look of this model is actually very good, there are some issues regarding the discs. First is the printing of the numbers which could be better and second is what appears to be evidence of dust on the discs. The first issue is just plain careless and the second shows to me that assembly of the watch is maybe not done in ideal conditions. I would suspect that final Quality Control is the buyer! There is a 1 year Guarantee however and if you get one where the issues are more serious or if concern to you, I would think a return would be a replacement as the repair.

But that said, overall I’ve got to say that I am pretty pleased with this watch at such a low cost, especially when considered against a similar looking model such as the Nixon Rotolog retailing at over £200 versus £15 for this model. Of course there will be quality differences, but I have to confess I see nothing that would stop me from buying this over the more expensive one.

What would I like to have seen? Maybe a back light for night use or perhaps luminous discs or numerals – but there again these extras cost money and not essential.

So to conclude, this watch basically does what it shows and does it very well and at low cost. Quality Control is another matter, but without another sitting beside it I’m unable to gauge one against the other. What I can say is that this particular one certainly looks good and should the worst happen and it die a death sooner rather than later – so what?

However it has to be said that I have no reason whatsoever to suppose that it will not give many years of service.

So a good watch – and a great buy and under £20.