Junkers GMT Chronograph

As I like luminous watches and with World timer data on the dial, this Junkers model looked of interest.  This is the very new Junkers 6892-5 GMT Chronograph, which manages to have that Classic look about it, but perhaps a little more modern than many in the Junkers range.  It also seems to promise some sort of travel practicality that might be useful to me as I still travel quite a bit these days.  This particular model unfortunately is not mechanical but does feature the highly accurate Swiss ETA G10-962, 4 jewel Quartz movement, which I can more or less set and forget.

Junkers 6892-5 Worldtimer, Date Chronograph.
Junkers 6892-5 ‘Worldtimer’, Date Chronograph. GMT sub-dial with Time Zones index.

The satin finished Stainless Steel case is well sized at 42 mm diameter (45 mm including crown) x 12 mm height, with a cream dial and a decent Water Resistance of 10 ATM or 100 m and comes across as a practical dress watch in function and looks.

However, as I found out this in not what we call a “world Timer” model. Basically this model shows a time zone index (time zones as + 1, + 2 etc.) inscribed on what is really a GMT (or local time list) sub-dial.  Incidentally this information is duplicated on the watch back, so other than a piece of time zone data, it has no mechanical function whatsoever.  Unlike some other World time models there isn’t a WT complication feature ie; to move the hands instantly to another time zone using a pusher.
Indeed you could be forgiven for mistaking the “Red” coloured upper right pusher for such a complication, but alas it is simply the usual start/stop chronograph function and a hands reset feature.

You can alter the GMT dial to show your home Zone, by pulling the crown out to position 2, press the red pusher and use either it or the lower pusher to move the pointer in single stages or 15 minute increments.

The Chronograph function is quite decent, with split time and so on, (minutes are indicated by the Local time dial @2) and is started and stopped by the top “Red” pusher – I suppose just to highlight the chrono function start.

So, overall whilst a nice Date and Chronograph watch, don’t mistake this for a word timer.

Junkers with alternative deployment strap - Note RED pusher?
Junkers with alternative deployment strap – Note – RED chrono start pusher.

The next feature highlighted in the specification is the luminous cream coloured dial.   It advertises two forms of luminous ability.   Firstly the broad luminous and elegantly shaped Hour and Minute hands are apparently Super-Luminova coated and the entire dial surface is coated in Super-luminova. This, according to the advertising should give this model outstanding readability in total darkness.   Note the numerals/indices are made of contrasting black Anthracite.

However, knowing the often lack-lustre luminous quality of previous Junkers watches (I have three older models) I’m curious to see if it does in fact live up to the luminous potential.

So, as usual I performed my usual at home practical test – which is – Just before retiring I set the watch on my bedside table and shoot off the the bathroom for a wash and get ready for bed (I know this is mundane, yes? but that’s life!).  This perhaps takes around 10 minutes and during this time the watch is sitting under and facing dial up towards my bedside table lamp and  the luminous dial is being charged.
And sure enough with lights out, the entire watch face is lit up brightly and the hands are silhouetted black with a good contrast against it and you can read the time perfectly. Really impressive and so far so good and the time was 01:30am.

However, at 02:40 in the morning, whilst the dial still had some luminescence, the Hand contrast was much reduced and though I could still make out the time, it wasn’t that easy.  However, at 03:45 I could not make out the time at all, the hands effectively having the same tone as the now, very faint dial background and it was not possible to read the time. So the effective night use is only about 1½ hours and after that it’s unreadable.

The problem is that the hands are not black, but only black edged and have an infill, which is supposed to be luminous but don’t actually appear to be.  So, if after a night out you leave the bright lights inside and walk out in the dark to your car, the watch is fine and you’ll see it OK, as your talking minutes here, not 2 hours.  But as an all night job, forget it.
The watch seems to have an issue – either make the hands decently luminous against a normal dial or 2, or  make the hands solid black against the luminous dial and here Junkers have managed neither very well.

Note -As regards the dials – just a note – it is really quite complicated to set and reset hands and dials. You will need to refer to the instructions.

I do wish when Brands promote a luminous quality, they would do it properly so the luminous effect works for a decent period of time. Under 2 hours is not, in my opinion, good enough today.

I attach some real photos of the GMT Chronograph for you that show the watch as it is, rather than web page style images, which can be so misleading.

Note, this watch came with a very good quality leather strap and buckle, and is full size (made for large people) and I’m just a 170 mm wrist.  On the very last hole it’s still too big and as a consequence doesn’t tighten effectively, unless you start punching holes in it, which I’d rather not do.
In my case I replaced the strap with a silicon deployment which better suited me.  The watch then fits neatly against the wrist and the strap is as it should be, unobtrusive and neat.

So OK, a nice watch, Date Chronograph with centre seconds hand, a GMT subsidiary (data only) dial with some (very small) City Zone time markings around it and that’s about it.  No real “World time” functionality and the much vaunted luminous features not as expected and ultimately disappointing. Which is a shame as it is a very good looking watch.
In short, had the luminous feature come up to scratch and the GMT featured a genuine world time function that moved the Hour hand to a selected Time Zone for example, then this would have been a really good buy.

As it is, it didn’t and it wasn’t . . . . . . . BUT of course, if you simply want a nice looking, good quality and accurate watch, with a decent movement that shows the date as well – then you’re in business. As I say, it is a very good looking watch.

Infantry value?

Once again I delve into the world of really cheap watches with this second model of the Infantry brand I’ve acquired.  The last one was given to me by a friend a year ago (I featured it in August 14) and has proved OK and hasn’t let me down, is accurate and actually looks pretty good.  My pal doesn’t often give gifts, but at $12 he wasn’t killing himself!  LOL . . . .

Infantry Model IN-044 - clear display Day & Date.
Infantry Model IN-044 – clear display Day & Date.

It will be interesting to see if this one which I’ve found recently is as satisfying – and on first impressions I’d say it looks not too bad. A bit lightweight, with a coated metal case but offered at a price of just £14.24 including FREE delivery to the UK from Hong Kong, it might be a bargain.

The Maker’s description says – IN.044 model Infantry Day/Date Quartz Nite Luminous with nylon strap, images are as shown.  With a round 40 mm x 11 mm matte black colour resin case, good sized crown @3, luminous Arabic numerals, Hour, Minute and centre Seconds plus a 24 hr dial set and a good sized Day/Date window @3, the watch has very much a classic look.
Note the Day & Date feature has a quick set Crown adjustment on the first pull out click point.  The crystal is flat, described as anti-scratch glass, which it might or might not be?  It is however very clear and with barely any reflection. The crown action seems VERY light, so I have to assume the Quartz movement is a very small one sitting, probably looking a bit lost in this case. And so it was, my assumption being correct.

Good size at 40 mm diameter and just 11 mm thickness makes for a neat watch.
Good size at 40 mm diameter and just 11 mm thickness makes for a neat watch.

Note the dial markers are on a second level to the numerals and there is a white arrow datum mark within the dial@12.

The screwed back however, isn’t – it looks like it is with the indents for a tool suggesting it’s screwed, but so obviously a simple and rather thin “snap” back, hence the quoted Water Resistance of just 3ATM – and after unsnapping that back – I would doubt even that so I’d stay away from water.

Conversely a nice OK quality 22 mm wide nylon fabric strap is supplied and it has a solid and signed steel pin buckle completes the look, which overall is quite pleasing.
The movement is listed as a precision Japanese Quartz and appears to be a generic Seiko/Epson or lookalike type and as these day they rarely have issues, it seems accurate enough.

Stainless screw back - 3ATM Water Resistance - note the spelling of model?
Stainless “screw” back? – Don’t be fooled! – it’s actually a rather thin metal snap back and at 3atm no swimming please!

So overall I’m OK with this watch, and although cheap made, it works as it should.  In reality it looks far better than it is, but without gimmicks and for value it’s pretty matchless.

Quality wise, OK the back is a bit thin and the “snap” is weak, so water resistance is minimal.  The Luminous quality – which I thought at first was probably not good enough – was in fact quite reasonable – and that did surprise me!
It manages ‘a good few hours’ though does lessen as the night goes on, but maybe my old eyesight has a portion of the blame.

So how I do rate it?

Well it’s VERY cheap, but it looks remarkably good and it works.  It’s Quartz, so is reasonably accurate, the Day and Date operate as they should – and at £14.00 is about as cheap as you can get.  The watch back has never come off inadvertently, so the snap back holds and has never fallen off, so . . my verdict.

I rather like it.

 

There’s Rolex and there’s . . .

. . . Rolex!

I suppose I must be in the minority, as for me Rolex watches are just not my favourite watch, though perhaps I should qualify this by saying “modern” Rolex models.

Modern but not for me!
Modern maybe, but not for me!

The older model such as the 1981 Rolex 1006 or perhaps the 1979 Submariner 5513 for example, or models that were basically around until the mid 1990’s I’d say, were and are still are the best of the bunch for me personally.  In fact the earlier vintages are much better in all cases for me.

Since then nothing has really appealed.  From then till now a sort of “sameness” seems to have occurred and no amount of tinkering with the models has altered my perception.  That said maybe the Cellini models are a step in the right direction, reflecting as they do some of those early models, but today’s mainstream models do nothing for me and especially the Sub this and the Mariner that range.

1950's Rolex two tone thunderbird bezel classic
1950’s Rolex two tone thunderbird bezel classic

It’s also true to say in my opinion anyway that maybe back in those pre-1990 days there wasn’t the same overbearing hype surrounding the Brand and folks who owned these Rolex models, actually appreciated the watch for what it was and not for the silly “I’ve got a Rolex” status symbol.

And in the early vintage days there were so many wonderful variants and styles that you were spoiled for choice and certainly to get one today will set you back a fair amount of cash, so perhaps I’ve created a rod for my own back, as these vintages are indeed the only models that attract me – and attract me they do!

1940 steel red centre sweep seconds - luminous hands
1940 steel red centre sweep seconds – luminous hands

Seems to me these days too many wearers seem far more interested in being seen with the big shiny “Rolex ” on their wrist, than in the attributes or otherwise of the particular model.
They value the status over the product – in other words the Brand, dare I say it, has gone too far and become synonymous with Bling.  And yes I accept – expensive Bling at that!

A bit like the UK expression “Oh my other car’s a Mercedes” when someone queried your 4 year old Volvo.  It’s the status aspect that assumes importance and the interest and not actually the car at all.

And that is surely a real shame as Rolex are a very good Brand indeed, but I see at Auction, people who obviously wouldn’t know a Rolex from a plastic kitchen clock, buying by description.  They just have to buy one – because they believe incredibly if they own one, they’ve made it!  They are now one of the elite – yes one of the “I’ve got a Rolex” brigade.

The sheer number of Rolex watches that come up for sale and offered on the market from Pawnbroker stocks, is staggering.  Usually dumped by those same folks who bought the watch as a status symbol in the first place and one of the first items to go, when financial reality comes home to roost.

There are so many of them, Rolex’s I mean – the market is awash with them and there are also thousands of fakes sloshing around.  Some Replicas these days look as good as the real thing.  Now that says to me, either the fakes are getting very much better or the Rolex itself is becoming old hat and boring – and I’m not really sure which.

So I’ll stick to my classic Vacheron Constantins, Pateks, Jaegers and yes to my true “vintage” Rolex models if I may.

1928 Rolex rectangular exploded numerals with sub seconds.
1928 Rolex rectangular exploded numerals with sub seconds.

Now they certainly don’t have the over-hyped status appeal of the big shiny modern Rolex, but do have a certain old “Classic” sophistication and that’s fine by me.  They are sleek, comfortable and discrete and with a subtle elegance and charm that usually goes un-noticed on my wrist.

And furthermore I have to say I’m actually rather pleased in the knowledge of ownership and when confronted with the Rolex bling – and it happens so, so often – I just smile to myself – quietly . . . . . .

However recently on a river cruise in Europe, I was at dinner and one of my companions who was wearing the biggest shiniest Rolex I’ve ever seen, did actually notice my watch which was just visible at my cuff.  In fact he always seemed to make a point of trying to see the watches of his fellow travellers.

‘You didn’t buy that on board did you?’ he commented.  ‘It looks real neat’.

‘It’s an old Rolex’, I said.

‘Rolex! Well it sure doesn’t look like one’, he said.

‘Ah well’, I replied, ‘there’s Rolex and there’s Rolex’.

NoteThe images of the vintage Rolex are from and are featured on www.vintagewatchcompany.com web site and are currently available for sale.  The vintagewatchcompany have the widest range of pre-owned Rolex and well worth a look.  Who knows you may be tempted!

“Keep it forever” watch?

So what’s your “keep it forever” watch?  Do you have one?  Are you even lucky enough to have one?

Mine is a no brainer – it’s my old 1999 Breitling Aerospace Titanium – and for me there’s nothing to touch it.  Some of my other models come close, true, but nothing beats it.

Breitling Aerospace Minute Repeater 1998 vintage
Breitling Aerospace Minute Repeater 1999 vintage

For me it has one of the best dial layouts you will ever see.  Easy to read analog with that so clever overhang minute hand, but also superb clarity of digital (and not many watches manage both I can tell you).  Still after 16 years a decent luminous analog even with such narrow and fine hands and on wrist is both light and slim (later models are larger and thicker).  And I can’t agree with those that say Titanium doesn’t last or it scratches badly, as this watch shows today as good as it was when I bought it.  It IS smooth I admit so there is obviously some wear there, but it’s simply smoothed those brand new edges and has mellowed with wrist/clothing wear and time.  Like that old penknife that’s worn smooth in your hand, but always with you.

I love the fact that under that extreme anti-reflective Sapphire crystal and clear window, sits that highly unusual LCD screen with it’s a polarization-sensitive dichroic filter.  This allows the LCDs to display in “inverted mode”, which in turn gives that wonderfully clear and bright “gold” text on the dark background – so good in any light.  And as quartz movements go this Breitling customized ETA module is very accurate.

The solid link Ti bracelet still operates perfectly even after 16 years and is so smooth to wear it’s the most comfortable watch I own.  Whether used as a dress watch or a practical outdoor watch it fits the bill every time and looks good!

OK It’s not Solar, but to change the battery every 5 or 7 years is no big deal and with a small amount of lubricant on the rubber seal, during the change, the 100 m Water Resistance remains intact.

This is absolutely my No.1 “keep forever” watch.

Of course we all have different ideas on what features a watch should have, though many folks go for the latest, or the most complicated function wise, regardless of the basic requirements that perhaps more honestly we actually might use.

A good tip (I think so anyway) is that for a “keep it forever” watch you would be well advised to look at Diver’s models, as these can easily be the most practical watches you will ever buy AND at reasonable cost.

Lot's of Divers - all super clear, Water Resistant, Tough, luminous and difficult to beat.
Lot’s of Divers – all super clear, Water Resistant, Tough, luminous and difficult to beat.

I have over a dozen models and quite a few meet not only my personal criteria (Easy to read, good Water Resistance, Luminous, Tough), but could well be that “once in a lifetime” model that never leaves your wrist.  These can be mechanical or quartz, Solar or not, some with Date and Day and some you could knock nails in with!

My Breitlng Areospace - taken today where it usually is - on my wrist.
My vintage 1999 Breitlng Areospace – image taken today where it usually is – on my wrist.

Now just to sort out you doubters about the condition of my old Breitling – just to be clear – this image above was taken 2 minutes ago on my wrist and as I Post.  Still looking good and probably if being entirely honest with myself and considering I collect watches (why do I do it?), maybe and truly this is the only watch I should have.  It suits me and does everything I need (and more actually), and does it all subtly and without fuss and fits my wrist size perfectly – What more can you ask?

Analog value

For pure value there’s not much to touch the digital range from Casio, but of course they also make Analog watches too – or had we forgotten.

Casio MRW200H-BVEF 100m Water Resistance Day and Date with lume - pretty good!
Casio MRW200H-BVEF 100m Water Resistance Day and Date with lume – pretty good!

And here they offer quite incredible value AND a reliability that probably no other Brand can achieve at this price point.  Here’s one that caught my eye – the MRW-200H-1BVEF,  basically as it is a Day AND date display watch AND it features luminous hands (another feature that so many of the cheap alternatives out their can’t seem to offer).

Casio have a few different color/style options of the same basic watch (MRW-200HC-4BVEF etc), so can just about match anyones preferences, which has to be good marketing.

Same again but with Red Resin strap.  Also available in black/green combination.
Same again but with Red Resin strap. Also available in black/green combination.

This model also manages a decent 100 m Water Resistance, which reinforces their very sound resin case, seal and metal back set up, which is both simple and effective.

And at these prices it’s difficult (I’d say impossible actually) to see what if anything offers better value.

These are presently on offer for around the £15.00 mark!

Now be honest – that’s just incredible value for a watch that is NOT a junior effort, but a decent 44.6 mm diameter with a rather neat 11.6 mm thickness – should look great on any wrist.

Vector – It’s about time.

Smart watches are becoming the “must” item to wear and the technology is sweeping forward despite the severe battery limitations, which have sadly not yet been resolved.

Vector Luna - the discrete Smart watch
Vector Luna – the discreet Smart watch

However a different approach has been championed by the Vector smart watch brand as in the case of the Luna model shown here.  Sticking with limited functions and a monochrome display, no touch screen and conventional “watch” pushers, this model manages 30 days easily.

It also displays the Time permanently, so is a proper watch, a discreet Smart watch if you will and that’s a concept that appeals to me.  I also love the fact it looks like a watch, behaves like a watch and doesn’t need charged every few days.  The fact that within the top (the CEO no less) management of the company is ex Timex, explains much of the “this is a watch” concept and means a watch at 42 mm diameter by 11 mm depth should fit most wrists.  A hardened mineral crystal and 50 metres Water Resistance also adds confidence on the model’s longevity.

Vector Luna - bracelet or strap versions
Vector Luna – bracelet or strap versions

Smart applications include Notifications from your Smart Phone, be it iPhone, Android or indeed Windows and such a choice is highly commendable in comparison to others.  A few different alternative watch faces, calendar reminders, basic activity tracking and basic alarms and so on are available and can be customized to a certain extend by the Vector App which resides on your phone.  In short it manages to provide you with features that you might actually use and not a silly mass of images and functionality that you  a) don’t really need and  b) drain your battery.

Vector App stream for Phone - easy to use and operate.
Vector App stream for Phone – easy to use and operate.

A refreshing change I’d say and shows us a Company with a clear vision of what they want from their product, unlike some, who throw in the kitchen sink regardless of practicality or battery usage concerns.

It’s also early days with Vector and I’m sure that subsequent versions will refine the functionality, features and display capability, hopefully without endangering the usability of the watch.

I like it.

Prices range from around £200 to £340, which seems to me to be pretty competitive – and there’s nothing to touch it out there for battery life – so Hey! it’s not a bad deal!

Note – As you will no doubt have figured out, I’ve not been a great advocate of the so called “Smart” watches and in particular at the stage these seems to be at.  I’ve always been of the opinion that we the buyer are financing development costs for products that are still at the “work in progress” stage.  However with the Vector some sense has prevailed and this is a watch which manages to give the wearer firstly a watch, then some sensible connectivity to most cell Phone systems with functions that we might actually use.

But as ever technology marches on and in the case of Smart technology the march has turned into a rush – so what next?  Tomorrow, next week . . . . . Time will tell.

Brit design

Nick Munro studied engineering and design at Nottingham University, Imperial College of Science and Technology and The Royal College of Art, London and in 2011, Nick launched his first collection of fashion accessories – the 12:19 watches inspired by the precision and accuracy of the Tokyo railway system.

The 12:19 Nick Brown watch
The 12:19 Nick Munro watch

Found these neat models whilst looking at what was on offer from the “design” aspect of watches available and came across Nick Munro’s range.  Quite impressed with the simplicity and neatness of the range and the tidy range of color variations available. Red, Yellow, Green and Blue, with either mesh or leather bracelets.

The dials are simple with good clarity, black hands against the lighter dial background, black seconds hand and a small date aperture @3.  Ashampoo_Snap_2015.09.27_14h15m10s_003_A clear view Sapphire crystal, Japanese Quartz movement with date.

Not for night reading but simple a neat pleasing fashion watch for day use that has something rather pleasing about it.  Not mainstream, not overly designed, perhaps slightly quirky, but only just and will I’m sure get a few looks from your friends.Ashampoo_Snap_2015.09.27_14h39m03s_008_

The models shown here – are the Square Yellow (or Green, or Blue, or Red) braid Strap Watch series which were inspired by the accuracy and elegance of the Japanese station clock apparently.

Dimensions are 35 mm diameter, Water Resistance – 30 metres and finished in brushed Stainless Steel.

Priced at £125 in the UK they are not unreasonable and just that bit different.

The range can be seen HERE.

 

 

Yachting colors

Unfortunately I’m not into yachting, but if I was there are quite a few different styles of yacht “timer” watch models around that might well tempt me.

Timex Yacht Timer - great for showing off your colors!
Timex Yacht Timer – great for showing off your colors!

The smartest of all at the moment seems to be this Timex TW2P73100 from their Intelligent Quartz® Yacht Racer PRO series and it comes in a few different colors, possibly to match the sails of your yacht? (note – I did feature this briefly in March earlier this year, but now after seeing it – I like it and the video says it all!)

This seems to have everything the yacht enthusiast would want, such as direct 5, 3 and 1 minute countdowns after which the Chronograph starts. (Note it’s a 1 hour chronograph).  The last 5 seconds of any countdown features audible alerts.  Not being a “yachty” however, I’d have to rely on others as to these functions usefulness – but Hey, they certainly look the part and are relatively inexpensive as are most of the Timex range.

 

  • Yacht Racing Mode
  • Count-Down Timer to Auto Start Chronograph
  • Perfect Date (Perpetual Calendar)
  • Silicon Strap
  • 100 Meter Water Resistance.

    Color options aplenty!
    Color options aplenty!
  • Attachment Buckle/Clasp Type: Buckle
  • Attachment Color: Black
  • Attachment Material: Silicone
  • Attachment Type: Strap
  • Case Accent Color: Black
  • Case Color: Black
  • Case Finish: Brushed
  • Case Height: 14 mm
  • Case Lug Width: 22 mm
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Case Shape: Round
  • Case Size: Full-Size
  • Case Width: 47 mm
  • Crystal/Lens: Mineral Glass
  • Dial Color: Orange
  • Dial Luminant Hands: Luminant Hands
  • Dial Markings: Markers (Full)
  • Features: Chronograph
  • Warranty: 1 Year Limited
  • Watch Movement: Quartz Analog
  • Water Resist: 100 meters

    Want a touch of gold? the smart option.
    Want a touch of gold? the smart dress option.
Less ostentatious but same functions.
Less ostentatious but same functions.

Most of the data here apart from color and so on will be shared across all the models shown and I like the fact that the models are not too large – a failing of some I’m afraid, but Timex have managed a reasonable compromise of function to size.  Each model features their “perfect date” where the calendar is programmed to 2060 and is always correct and visible on selecting the appropriate pusher.  The unique bi-direction center hand provides the countdown starts, chronograph and a perfect date you’ll never have to set.  I love it when a watch model is geared specifically to a certain task and this one seems super cool.

Here is a nice video shown below that explains the operations better than I can –  

See more at: http://www.timex.co.uk/watches/intelligent-quartz-yacht-racer-pro-tw2p73100au#sthash.thG9hgWe.dpuf

Colourwise I probably prefer the multi-color dial version (yellow strap (as video) or the dressy version) as the dial colours seem to work very well clarity wise.

Incidentally I love the way the indicated function lights up in the video – just video license I’m afraid and this doesn’t happen in reality – but Hey you can’t have everything!

So do I need one? – not really.
Am I into yachting? – nope.
Should I get one? – well I time my eggs in the morning . . . . . will that do?

Any excuse – every time!

 

Wenger Commando Day Date

There’s something about the Wenger Commando (quartz) that does it for me every time I see it.  It just looks right and whilst I love the classic look of the chrono, for me as I hardly ever use such a feature, the button-less Day and Date version I feature here, has to be a sure fire winner – and at reasonable cost.

Commando Day Date XL 70172 Swiss Watch
Commando Day Date XL 70172 Swiss Watch

Swiss made and basically what you see is what you get – no gimmicks, no extraneous stuff, but a watch that will live with you and give great service, day or night.

This watch has a dial that others envy I’m sure as it is clarity, clarity, clarity!  Wonderful bright green Super Luminova hands and indices with a Day and Date window @3 and a reasonably large easily operated crown and all set in a smooth black Ion plated stainless steel case with a silicon rubber buckle strap.  The dial under the Sapphire coated crystal seems larger than it really is, as it takes up most of the 40 mm diameter case and with a depth of under 12 mm the watch also manages to be a really neat wrist fit.

Water Resistance is pretty good too at 100m with a polished stainless steel engraved screw back.Ashampoo_Snap_2015.08.20_18h44m27s_004_

Like the Swiss Army Knife, the Wenger Commando Day Date model is also dependable and practical and does it’s job very well, no more, no less and with all the stuff that appears one minute and gone the next today, there’s something comforting about that.

A Victorinox Group company yet with their own independent model range including of course the Swiss Army Knife.

I confess to having a Commando model some years ago and as a collector it happened to be one of those I moved on, to facilitate my new collections ideas. A decision I did regret I have to say even at the time.  However as with all “good” things, it’s still available and as pleasing now as it was then, so I’m pretty sure as it’s priced around £170 in the UK, I’ll be wearing one in the not too distant future.

Tactical Battalion

As a lover of ” diver” watches I always keep a lookout for models that catch my eye and this model from Mühle Glashütte is such a one.

Mülle Glashütte Seebattalion - rubber strapped diver
Mülle Glashütte Seebattalion – rubber strapped 30 atm diver

This is the Seebatallion GMT (rubber) Automatic produced to meet the future requirements of the marine protection Forces of the German Navy.  It meets the overall requirements and is reliable, self sufficient (no battery required) and absolute clarity, three features deemed necessary for this purpose.  Great specification and cased in solid Titanium which offers light weight and with it’s screw down crown positioned @4 allows full wrist mobility.  The dial markings are such that with double indices at 3, 6 and 9 position plus a split triangular marking at 12 allow clarity and precise hand 12 oclock position.  These also allow good use of the SuperLuminova luminous coatings for poor light or dark situations.  Note the Sweep Seconds hand and the GMT hand are in black with a additional yellow outlined GMT skeletonised arrow head which does not interfere with the minute graduation.  Note too the excellent contrasting Date window also @4

The Mühle Seebattalion - 30atm and absolute clarity
The Mühle Seebattalion – 30atm and absolute clarity

A bi-directional bezel with extra 15 to 0 detail, plus a 2.5 mm thick domed anti-glare Sapphire crystal, transparent case back and Water Resistance to 30 bars is exceptional.  The dimensions are 44 mm diameter in combination with only 12.7 mm height means this is very compact on the wrist.  The rubber strap with stainless steel safety clasp with extension fitted via screwed attachment bars.

ETA 2893-2 Automatic Mühle - 30 atm.
ETA 2893-2 Automatic Mühle – 30 atm.

The movement is the Swiss ETA 2893-2 Automatic, withe bespoke Mühle woodpecker neck regulation, rotor and special finishes.
There is a second Time Zone/24hr display, stop second and Fast Date correction and has a 42 hr Power Reserve.

All in all this a very finely made and specified model and one that may will find it’s way into my collection.  At around the £1500 mark which considering the quality is not a bad deal in my book.  It’s also that bit unusual from a highly regarded maker, it’s unlikely any of your friends will either have one or perhaps even heard of it, though this family Business is around 145 years old, though as with many traditional brands across the wars, it was revitalized again in 1994 and once again producing watches of exceptional quality and practicality.

They can be seen HERE.