Every so often I like to trawl the swatch world, just to see what low price models take my fancy. I like Swatch as the quality is invariably at a decent level as to ensure a good and reliable timepiece. Their quartz models in my opinion are almost always good value and more often that not, great fun to wear. Slightly funky colour-ways mean that if you are even a tiny bit dress conscious , then these can make a rather neat and subtle statement that you ain’t finished yet!
Unisex Colour the Sky Swatch model Quartz.
This is the GS124 or the Swatch Unisex “Colour my Sky” quartz model – available for anywhere between £30 and £40 and OK is a basic 3 hand model without Day or Date, but has got lots of colour, both dial and strap. Dimensions just 34 mm x 8.75 mm depth, this is a very neat watch and will fit anyone. (and don’t be thinking this is too small – some of the best Patek’s are 34 mm!).
It is what it is and that of course defines the ever so quirky Swatch range. The back has the usual coin screw battery access and the case is sort of see-through plastic and the dial layout works pretty well with the slight odd hands set up. In fact this one has a touch of the old “railway” clock look about it and is pretty easy to read.
I like it.
My next Swatch pick is the oddly named “Lonely Desert” (Day & Date) model (SUOB721) which is I suppose more gents that Unisex, though that said, is not a large watch either at 41 mm diameter by 9.85 mm depth, so still a neat wearing model. Price wise not a lot more than the first watch featured, but has the advantage of the Day and Date window.
Swatch Gents “Lonely Desert” Quartz.
I like this one as it features a leather strap in a really neat shade of “leather brown” that works well with the dark case. The dial is silvered and the Day and Date window stands out really well with white letters against a black background. This is a slightly more serious watch model than the colour sky idea and looks really good either in casual or in a formal setting.
The usual coin battery access at the back –
Typical Swatch coin battery access.
Here’s a pic of the typical Swatch battery hatch system.
So just a couple of models from the huge Swatch range that caught my eye, both very affordable, Quartz powered and yet quite different.
I have to admit to a liking for quite a few of the Swatch Day and Date watches as they really do represent great value for money, especially when coupled to a quality standard that seems to stand up proudly on it’s own merit.
I have a few friends who collect Swatches (sad I know . . .) and I reckon most of us know someone who probably has more than one and I suppose it must be gratifying to Swatch themselves as the “S” or second “Watch” idea (Swatch) has turned out to be such a success story.
I’ll probably feature a few more of the ones that I like – and you never know, you might like the odd one too.
When buying and ultimately collecting watches over the years, sometimes you get yourself a model that you think will be the one. You know a “perhaps this is it” moment when the watch you’ve just strapped on your wrist is, for you, as good as it gets. That’s it, settle back and in the realization that you’ve just got your personal modern holy grail, start the process of slowly selling off the lesser models and call it a day.
Maybe just keep those very few, “landmark” models, that have particular significance for you.
Well that moment may just have been reached, at least for modern watches. And here I have to quantify what is modern to me, which I suppose it’s from the day I bought my Breitling Aerospace, which was 1999 and funnily enough that was my grail watch back then.
But as I collect both modern and vintage model, this may not really be the end of the day, but it could be the last “modern” watch purchase I make.
If I consider todays technology with new and amazing complications as “modern”, then it’s probably true that this Citizen cc etc etc will be the last one. Maybe as I can’t see anything really being much better, certainly from my personal requirements. And let’s be clear, this watch gives the correct and always accurate Time, Day and Date, anywhere, anytime – period! It’s easy to read day or night and is super simple to use. As the definition of what a watch does – it’s about as good as it gets.
You simply get it and forget it. . . . . . . . . . . . .
Citizen cc3005-85E on silicon deployment strap – the ultimate? (more info see HERE)
I have to admit that Citizen have done an amazing job with this model – it’s not cluttered to look at, and thats’s a feat in itself (check out other satellite models around), it’s easy to tell the time (anywhere), it’s not too big and what more do you need or want for that matter.
But that might just be the point and certainly as a silly old eclectic (and perhaps eccentric) collector and it makes me start to question why I collect watches in the first place.
For once you’ve got the watch that does it all – what’s next?
Well for me it’s maybe time to slowly sell off some of my older “modern” models – this will clear some of the clutter, both collection wise and in my mind plus (and this is a very big plus) AND help me finance any new purchases too, which has to be helpful!
So many watch models were a product of their time and the limits of technical possibility I suppose and that’s one of the attractions. They have limitations which can be quirky and interesting and maybe that’s the beauty of collecting.
Yes maybe that is just the point – it’s all a question of TIME.
OK, so here’s the deal – My true vintage watch collecting will carry on absulutely, especially in regard to watches from the early 1900’s to perhaps the early 1950’s.
And I’m still very interested in those zany Digital watches from the Golden period 1970’s to mid 1990’s, as it was such an interesting period in watch experimentation.
And as for modern, whilst I will cut back a bit, I’ll always check out any classic models that come along that simply take my fancy, but mostly can show some elegance and style as my guide.
Buy Hey! I’ve said all this BS before and who am I kidding – it’ll never happen! because if I see it and like it, I might just go and buy it! 😉
The very reliable Pesseux 7001 mechanical movement used occasionally by the likes of Blancpain and others, was so well regarded that it wasn’t long before the ETA 7001 appeared (bought by ETA). Started off life in 1971 with 17 jewels, 21,600 vph, non hacking, with a 42 hour reserve and very thin, was a great favourite with all sorts of Brands and Edox liked them for some of their Les Bemonts models.
Edox 2008 Les Bemonts manual wind Dress watch.
This is the unusual rectangular Les Bemonts model circa 2008 from Edox.
A well sized model at 34 mm wide and nearly 45 mm lug to lug and only 7.9 mm depth, shows just how thin this ETA7001 hand wind movement allows neat case design. The crystal is flat Sapphire, the dial features a sub seconds dial and gold and white background with gold hands, Edox “hourglass” logo and Swiss Made at the foot.
The case is stainless steel, gold plated with an exhibition back with part cutout to view the 7001 movement. The watch is Water Resistant to 5Bar. The 22 mm lug measured strap is high quality leather fitted to an Edox deployment (with extensions) mechanism, which is one of the most comfortable I’ve worn as it lies very flat on the wrist.
Great on the wrist Edox with excellent Edox deployment strap.
This particular watch was purchased in 2008 in Holland quotes as €899 (Euros) and it the recent Auction I managed to get it for considerably less.
Exhibition stainless back showing the ETA 7001 movement.
Now considering this watch has obviously not been worn, comes with box, attached watch protection stickers, instruction booklet, plus being in absolute pristine condition, no marks scuffs or anything other than showroom condition, I reckon this is indeed a bargain – so I’m well pleased.
Do I need what is after all a relatively modern watch like this? – well yes I do actually as I’ve found a new niche in collecting and that’s great “dress” watches that I can wear – and this is certainly one of them.
A great price for what is a pretty decent hi-grade ETA movement, Sapphire crystal, elegant design case and dial, plus a great fit on the wrist, for just over £100 – I think that’s a good deal.
Probably one the good reasons for visiting Auctions and especially IF you can manage at a fair price for you. It can offset the quite extortionate “fees” that Auction Houses are applying these days – one of my gripes I know, but I’m going to keep going on about it.
Let’s face it many Auction houses would be in severe decline if it were not for the Internet – as it draws in a huge number of potential buyers – maybe they need to recognize this and give Internet bidders a discount for taking the trouble to visit their auction and bid, rather than try to screw more cash out of us all.
You never know it could be a winning idea, for the Auction house as well as the web punter.
Vintage watches are still my passion and perhaps more so today than ever, simply because many are from an age where “style” and “elegance” were as important as the watch function itself. And I have to admit I like that.
Neat but good sized Ladies 1920’s 18K Vulcain manual wind in original condition
This example is a 1920’s Ladies 18ct Gold Vulcain which has survived in very good condition and is being worn today, keeping good time and looking as elegant as when it was made. I guess it was produced just after WW1 when Vulcain moved to their new factory, so possibly around 1923 or so, once the new premises was fully up and running.
This model is a bit of a rarity with this case shape, though checking through the Vulcain “Book” I found this very similar model from around 1930. Note the early Vulcain logo in a simple font without underlining etc.
1930’s Vulcain with diamond decoration – from the Vulcain “book”.
Another reference I found is from the Watch Book – “Wristwatches – A Handbook and Price Guide” 6th Edition of Gisbert L. Brunner & Christian Pfeiffer-Belli, printed by Schiffer, which although listed as anonymous, could indeed be a Vulcain such is the similarity.
Similar cased & dial look of the 1920’s
My Vulcain 18K Gold cased is also complimented by the expandable bracelet (marked DV, which denotes a Vulcain parts or accessory) which suits it perfectly with no degradation to the spring action or the fastening clip and safety chain. (note the Trademark DV with the V on top shown is prior to the rectangular form, which appeared in 1934).
Original Vulcain accessories (DV) 18k Gold expandable bracelet
The case back is numbered and hinged with a snap closure and the movement is in very good condition considering this watch is not water resistant.
Vulcain of course is a very old established Watch Company formed back in 1858 and still producing high quality watches today. Famous amongst other things for producing the 1st practical mechanical Alarm watch, the Cricket” – which could be heard over 30 metres away and operated without disturbing the time keeping of the watch, both features thought impossible. After many years of research it finally was introduced commercially in 1947.
So all in all very pleased with this purchase as once again it is relatively rare, both in shape and style and is in excellent running condition. What’s more it appears that the original bracelet is attached and the watch has obviously been kept for special occasions as it has worn exceptionally well over the best part of the last 100 years.
The last image shows a Gents Vulcain from around the same vintage, again with the original Vulcain logo on the dial and very similar font applications on the dial. Note too the hands and dial colour are virtually identical, which were obviously the parts of choice at this period.
I’ll keep a look out for this particular Gents model and if it comes up at any time – I’ll be very interested in adding it to my collection. You never know!
Gents 18ct Gold 1925 model (Illustration – from the Vulcain “Book”)
Every so often I feel I want to brighten up my watch wardrobe, especially if I’m out for dinner and maybe even dressed for the occasion. Something that maybe we don’t do often enough these days and certainly something I don’t do enough, being retired. Years of going to the day job, dressed up, tends to make one “dress down” when in retirement and maybe even to forget the odd shave – very remiss.
What to wear? Well this will do nicely ‘cos it’ll go with anything . . . .
But with age comes a certain freedom, where that silly old soul can wear an outrageous bow tie with a blazer or have an overly elaborate walking cane (never had one before, but what the heck!). Maybe you can make some amazing, amusing or cutting comment that could well be in the category of – “You can’t say that!” – that’s awful . . . . ! And get away with it.
And so it is with the choice of watch on your wrist, which neatly brings me to this model – the Swatch “Rounds & Squares” SUON122.
Swatch “Rounds & Squares” model – for geeks.
An ultra modernist Quartz in silicon, plastic, with an abstract style with a blue case and multi-colour strap and an every colour dial. The ultra lightweight case will manage a 3bar Water Resistance, so should withstand the odd glass of bubbly thrown at it, or even if the wearer might accidentally (or was he pushed?) fall in the pool. Now OK the watch survivability might be around 50%, which oddly enough is probably about the same (or better) as the old wearer . . .
It has a centre seconds hand and a neat little screw (coin) hatch at the back to access the battery and the strap as seen here is just fab’ and amazingly flexible.
Did I just use the F word? Goodness, is that sad or what . . . . I mean I was old when they started using that!
Coin battery entry hatch – easy fit even for me!
Anyway as watches go it’s a pretty decent size at 41 mm diameter and commendably just under 10 mm thick, AND it’s plastic, but without the over size silly “ooh is that a watch then?” look, a style that frankly has lost it’s charm for me – but this is different AND it looks good!
Yes this Swiss offering actually looks great – it’s bright, it’s colourful and OK, perhaps a little OTT (did I mention the second hand is “pastel blue?) but despite all that unbelievably I can think of lots of old guy eccentric clothing to go with it. I’ll look some out later . . . .
So being in a sort of dark mood the other day, I went and bought it, sad I know, but that’s what happens when faced with a hypnotic strap such as this.
How could you do it, I hear you ask?
Swatch that goes with – everything!
Well it was like this. I spotted it when having lunch with a friend – a friend who is an Ex geek. I know the ex idea seems bizarre but there he was, wearing believe it or not one of those ghastly Hawaii style Miami Vice era multi-colour, but long sleeved, shirts (the rest of his attire was no less incongruous – long shorts and hiking boots – and this is March in Scotland!).
Anyway it happened as my companion asked him the time and as a result I sort of did a double take, as my ex geek pal pulled up his shirt cuff and looked at this continuation of his – “shirt”?
But NO – he was actually looking at his nice new Swatch watch, which was virtually indistinguishable from his riotously bright outfit, in almost every way! And as I say – I was hooked . . . . . It was a lousy day, wet, dark and utterly miserable and there he was – a riot of colour, watch and all!
Well when I got home I looked it up, loved the colour, price OK and ordered one on the spot – and would you believe it – I was already starting to feel much brighter myself.
It came directly from Swatch in tick tock land, so took a couple of days.
Now perhaps it’s a cheap (relatively) and definitely cheerful watch of course, but it’s also absolutely a bit of fun to wear and it will do me nicely, oh yes, it’ll do me just fine.
Yes here was I thinking that Blancpain produced only round case watches. I checked around however and with some difficulty it has to be said I did find an image example in my old No 30 Edition Gilbert, Engle & Schugart “Complete Price Guide to Watches” on page 677 right at the foot of the page, an image of almost the very same model. It too has hooded lugs, though shown complete rather than the part hooded ones of my version.
Gilbert, Engle 2010 Watch Catalogue – illustration of vintage Blancpain model
However the dial is exactly the same, stick hands dot markers and the tiny sub-dial seconds, plus the 4 cardinal numerals. The glass is unscratched and domed and the solid 14k Gold case is in great condition. A degree of re-finish is evident and why not as this watch is from around the 1940-45 era. The strap is not a Blancpain but a modern Italian leather Rosario 18 mm that looks just fine. As always with any watch I collect – it has to be worn on the wrist regularly and Rosario straps are always comfortable.
Blancpain vintage rectangular c 1945
The movement which is in superb condition is signed Blancpain 17 jewel unadjusted with the Rayville SA import mark clearly shown (KXO). I’m not sure if Blancpain even made their own movements in this period and the movement looks very similar to an A. Schild. It does look as if it could be related to the AS 970 for example, though I’m no expert on these and there were so many AS movement variations, I can’t definitely put a number to it, but they were of very decent quality for the period.
1940s Blancpain signed 17 jewel – perhaps Anton Schild.
The case has been cleaned up at some point in the past, but the Case Maker marks show up clearly to be Katz & Ogush Inc of New York, who were registered in 17th January 1921, and denotes the 14k Gold motif. K&O had two different motifs – the other was simply plain text with their initials, so this is a nice bonus for me as I have a thing about Watch Case Maker marks.
Katz & Ogush Case Maker for Blancpain c 1945
When I first saw the images on Auction I thought perhaps this was a Ladies model, but the watch overall size at 26 mm x 35 mm lug to lug, is definitely for a Gent.
It was also produced at the time when the “formed” watch style was coming in to fashion, as they moved away from the traditional round pocket watch style of earlier times. Of all the shapes around at the time and into the fifties, the square and rectangular became the most popular and are still with us today.
So to say I was pleased in an understatement – I am delighted with my vintage find this month.
It’s not often you find a rectangular Blancpain and movement wise it is in great condition, the case is clearly marked with a known Case Maker and it’s in good condition – it also keeps excellent time which is another bonus.
The question of absolute original condition and refinished condition always comes up when collecting vintage watches. It is a fact that to find watches in “perfect” condition of this age is becoming almost impossible now. More often than not the watch is in various stages of poor condition, corroded movements, spotted dials, mechanical damage, scratches and dents and certainly not looking at all as it was when made. The question you have to ask is – Do I want it looking like that? And in my case – Do I want to wear it?
Personally as a “wearing” watch collector, I prefer the watch to look more or less as it was. And I don’t mean completely refinished in such a way as to look false, but rather cleaned up sympathetically, basically to show the attributes of the original watch.
I also don’t mean to replace everything on it, but where possible to refurbish the existing elements to best advantage.
Rectangular 14k Gold Blancpain c1945
The only time I would tend to accept the absolute original, would be for very much older pieces, such as a few pre -1900 models. I have some and these 1800’s models are about as original as you can get and “as found” and are the only watches I own that I don’t wear.
They are (unfortunately) for display purposes only. I suppose I got these when I first started collecting and had this exciting “purist” idea, but I soon found that firstly it was a VERY expensive and perhaps over-optimistic collecting idea. Secondly I realized that wearing watches was my real passion so had to revise my strategy and not look too far back – and of course it’s cheaper!
But for me, more fun . . . . .
Note – One of the problems with vintage watches is the degree of uncertainty when checking them out. You have to be a bit of a detective and maybe a skeptic too, which is a pity. It would be so nice to accept things at face value, but that would be unrealistic. There are some things on this model that could make you wonder, one of which is evidence of machine holes/marks on the rear of the dial. Are they related to the fitted movement and dial? Well yes they are in this case and are actually the reverse of the dot marker positions on the dial. If you look closely at the markers they are not just “applied” markers, but are in fact punched “through” the dial itself. And that’s about as permanent as you can get.
So maybe after all this is me being too Sherlock Holmesy, but this sort of thing does makes you question – But as I say happily every aspect of this case and dial was perfectly consistent with the watch. Though had they not been you have to remember it was the middle/end period of the 2nd World war, watch cases and parts may not have been easy to get and to assemble a complete watch might well involve a certain degree of “mix and match”.
I might have to go along with the fact it may – and I say may – have had a very light and sympathetic dial refurbishment and that is absolutely fine by me – in fact I love it.
So after close examination I think I’ve got myself a really nice and genuine example of a rather rare watch – AND I can wear it – so I’m happy.
One of the nice things I like about Longines, is their trick of producing high quality watches at affordable prices. And that’s what we’ve got here with this vintage Auction find for under a £100. I say value for money as I spotted a pre-owned one, co-incidentally just the other day from a Retailer, for £450 and this one is in far better condition.
Very neat Longines Conquest quartz Date watch – c 1992?
This is the Longines 1992-4 Conquest Date model in stainless steel, with the Longines L1.161.4, 6 jewel ETA quartz movement. Slipped into a sleek well finished stainless case that’s only at around 5.32 mm thick is what I call neat. In fact the entire watch is neat at just around 34 mm (excl. crown)in diameter. This version has the original Longines French made leather strap, with the proprietary deployment clasp with twin button release. Note this is a bespoke strap as it has to fit the lug case design with the centre cut out. I also noted when searching this model on Google it’s actually rare indeed to find a strapped version, as almost every one I’ve seen comes fitted to a Longines bracelet.
Neat Longines Conquest with 5.32mm thick stainless case & original deployment fitting.
Anyway this watch is in pretty much perfect condition with no marks or scratches at all (I hasten to add that the images shown are as I bought it, uncleaned), the Sapphire crystal is perfect and there are no intrusion marks on the back, which is also pristine. The fact there are no intervention marks is a real bonus, as so often ex Auction pieces have had a few over zealous buyers poking around them with their penknives! (Yes! it happens – I’ve seen it! and that really annoys me!).
The deployment strap is not actually damaged but is very oily/dirty with accumulated crud from obviously been worn 24/7 by the previous owner, so do I try and clean it or not?
Original Longines deployment fit – with quick release adjuster.
The Longines branded deployment clasp itself is actually very good and I note it doesn’t have your typical friction fit clamp adjustment. It is more subtle than that. To alter the fit length you have to push in one of the pushers (it’s marked with a little arrow) which allows the small push-button assembly to lift out. Once out, re-position the deployment over the strap hole you want, then pop it back in – job done.
Now whilst I am a great believer in deployment clasps for certain styles of watch and even with this one being rather good, on this very slim model it tends to defeat the purpose. I find that deployments can hold the strap away from the wrist by virtue of the fitting itself and in this case, as it’s such a neat, super thin and almost delicate watch So, I decided to fit a standard Longines leather strap and buckle instead.
And I was lucky enough to have a superb original leather one salvaged from another Longines with the correct end fit profile sitting in my spares drawer which will be ideal. Note – shown fitted with photograph at Post end.
Uncleaned as yet, but showing no scratches or marks – perfect!
So an excellent Auction buy, quartz it may be but it is a very high quality one and great value.
Longines watches are still and always have been undervalued in my opinion, which fortunately makes them a good choice when looking for a pre-owned watch. And I mean this for both quartz and mechanical models. Part of the reason is that they are not sold at inflated prices and even new they represent good value as the quality is really, really good and the closer you get to one, the better they look.
Looks good on the wrist at just 34 mm diameter.
This particular model is from the early 1990s and as good today as when it was made and I have to say there is a certain “comfortable quality” about it. What I mean is just everything about the watch feels right. The smoothness of the silky satin finished stainless steel case case, the rounded edges, the elegantly designed dial, subtle luminous markers and hands, it really is a sweet little watch for men or women.
So this purchase was both a surprise and a delight. A surprise as it was so cheap to actually get and a delight, in that once seen, in your hand, then worn on the wrist, the realisation that this watch is a keeper, no question.
Longines stainless buckle alternative to deployment.
Note– it is important when checking the serial number of this model, it is NOT the the obvious one on the case back, which yes, it does have between 5 and 8 numerals. Though conversely the movement calibre IS on the back.
To date the watch, you need the number On the movement module itself, so you need to snap off the back and check it on the movement module.
One of the most popular watch styles is the Day Date and yet it is hardly ever marketed with any great fanfare. But it’s no accident that many of the very best Makers have Day Dates in their range as they know that to so many people, it is the perfect wrist assistant.
They tell you the Time, the Date and the Day, the three most pertinent and popular functions of the wristwatch. They also are available at very affordable prices. There are Solar, Kinetic and Quartz, Manual wind mechanicals of all sorts of shapes and sizes, but for me the old classic mechanical Automatic is still around, is in good supply and still fun to own. That feeling of cogs and wheels and springs and things – ticking along on your wrist – no electronics, no touch screen, no Bluetooth, no Wi-Fi and no Internet – but self contained and still a true mechanical technical marvel.
It’s really difficult to beat – no battery, no light requirement and with mechanics that can easily with the movement of your wrist, outlast you. Mind you if you suddenly “snuff” it, your watch, after a decent interval, perhaps out of respect will also stop! But it only sleeps – waiting till the next live person comes along and suddenly it’s ticking away – recording time as it was made to do – something a bit science fiction about that and maybe even a bit surreal! In fact if you think about it – you are simply the custodian of the mechanical watch . . . .
Anyway I feature a few different models here – The first is one of my vintage ’70’ watches – the Tressa Crystal.
It never needs a battery, being a proper mechanical automatic movement and it shows the Time, the Date and the Day. Those three can be adjusted easily using the crown and a small pusher @4 – also it has a traditional geared analog hands display. Basically, strap it on and away she goes – it’s a set and forget watch and it’s very affordable. Note – it may look as if it’s a bit like the first Citizen solar dial – but it’s not – though I wonder where Citizen got the idea from ?)
The next images, in no particular order or price range – just a few I’ve spotted here and there.- they feature Day and Date and are Automatic models and these can be from Dress styles to Divers and all have a common feature – very easy to use. And of course being automatic, they require nothing from you, except for you to wear them.
Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Auto Day date
A great feature of the Automatic (have I mentioned it?) is that it doesn’t have a battery, it doesn’t require a light source and setting Time Zones or Summer Times is not complicated (so many specialist or complication watches can make a real song and dance about it).
Here, it’s just a case of, crown out, move hands, crown in – job done. No instruction booklets or prodigious memory required for what can often be a hugely over-complicated push button sequences that do your head in!.
Maybe this is a more apt description of an ABC watch! Because it’s as simple as A, B, C!
Tissot DS1 Auto Day DateCertina DS1 Auto Day Date
And yes – there are complication watches as shown of course that can show the Time, Day and Date plus many other functions, but frankly I sometimes wonder if we need them complicated.
But that said there are a few today that overcome some of these annoying and silly instruction book requirements. Such as Radio Controlled and GPS models for example can, used correctly, show the correct Time and Zones and the latest models have tried really hard to reduce required command functions should changes be required.
Victorinox Officers Day Date Auto
But for me the mechanical Automatic is still on top in the practicality and no-brainer stakes, so easy to use and will last many lifetimes.
As an Undertaker, funeral guy (watch collector) acquaintance said to me once –
“Basically my friend as long as you are ticking, so will your watch and if not – call me or at least leave a note. Maybe I can do a deal!”
So the basic data provision of Time, Day and Date as an instant view really hasn’t changed much over the years. It is still one of the true prerequisites for any watch that somehow manages to sell year after year after year, with little change.
And in keeping with this theme, there are of course some modern digital watches that manage to display the same data and as a default view. These include digital and ana/digi models and some even manage an easy to remember pushbutton sequence to access more complicated functions. As long as you have a battery or access to light – if solar – which defeats things a bit I suppose.
These models appear in most price ranges, but for me I tend to look at the affordable ones first.
Two of the better affordable models are the Cssio LCW-M180D-1AER
Casio LCW-M180D-1AER Radio Control, Solar, Day and Date view model.
and the Casio Tough Solar Model WVA-470 Wave-Ceptor
Casio WVA-470 Wave Ceptor – default Day date view
Both are well specified models offering many functions such as Radio Control, Solar Power, Stopwatch, Alarms etc.
However a good feature for me is they both manage to show the Time in analog and the Day and Date in a digital display as the default view, so meeting those three “must have” indications. The former model is part of Casio’s Lineage series and as close as you’ll get to “get and forget” models today and represent great value and are relatively inexpensive.
Diver Day Date Quartz – simple and effective.
There are also a few Diver’s watches around featuring the Day and Date window plus Diver capabilities that offer extreme good value for money and well worth a look.
Once again though it is no surprise that today Casio models feature quite prominently especially in the quest for watches that people “want” to wear. Models that offer the basics properly (so important) and now of course coupled with a higher technological level that hitherto was just not possible.
Take the Casio LCW Lineage series for example – these manage not only to give the wearer the essentials – of Time, Day and Date as the default view, but also “get & forget” features such as Radio Control and Solar Power. And Casio with these analog and digital hybrids offer in addition highly effective intuitive ease of use. I also like the fact they have “come of age” in comparison to the older Casio WVA-470 and don’t advertise on the dial the advanced technology within – they are nicely understated and rather refined in my view.
I have the WVA-470 myself and I like it a lot, but the newer LCW-M180 is much more elegant and in fact a real class act (I’m tempted again just writing this!).
So as to the question of Day and Date watches, I have to admit the Casio LCW (my review soon) is probably the successor to the older mechanical Day date Automatics and a worthy one at that. Though that said, don’t write off the Automatics just yet, I have a feeling they will be around for a long time yet.
Who knows they may be the true survivors – but only Time will tell . . . . . . .
I like this neat and rather rare 1949/50’s Ladies Movado Day and pointer Date calendar complication model I picked up in Auction recently.
Movado 3 letter Day & Date pointer Calendar index model – 15 Jewel – Ladies
Dated around 1950 maybe it has a 15 jewel manual wind Movado signed movement and a very neat layout dial with a three letter Day window @12, a red tipped Date Pointer with calendar perimeter index, with direct pin side calendar adjusters in addition to the main crown. The very solid looking square case is stainless steel and measures just 12 mm wide with a slightly domed crystal. The case is stainless steel and the back is a tight snap fit. The black leather strap is a standard 8mm fit, so easily interchangeable if needed, though this one is virtually new and recently fitted.
Movado Case data
This watch is in decent condition with few signs of wear at all except for one tiny ding on the back, which actually is of no consequence. The important thing for me about buying any of these small complication watches is the mechanics. Do they work? In this case there is a 3 letter Day wheel and a Date Pointer, both of which require setting – and on this model they do.
Movado direct adjust Day and Date apertures.
The problem with Auctions is that anybody and his dog have access to fiddle with the items (I’ve seen people open watches, get screwdrivers out and start poking inside – I kid you not!) and whilst the Auction House may indicate in their Condition Report that it winds and appears to run, that’s usually about it.
It is very definitely up to you to ensure it and for this model, that the complications work.
This Movado is a manual wind and has two tiny little pin adjusting holes on the left side, positioned at about 7 and 10 on the outside of the case. These adjust the Day and the Date independently of the Crown which simply alters the hour and minute hands (the time).
As said fortunately they work on my one, though once I’d had a close look inside I found one of the adjusters was bent out of position. If left in that condition it could mean that inserting a pin could easily slide past the adjuster and stab the movement in it’s vitals! Not good at all . . .
The adjuster levers in this model are side sprung, to enable them to move and line up with the internal case apertures and the pin holes. So I re-centered them and set them into the correct position. Now if you insert a pin to adjust, it will hit the adjuster dead centre and operate the mechanism as it should.
Movado 15 jewel Day & Date pointer Calendar movement
So a word of warning when you meet a model with pin hole adjusters. Have a real careful look to see and/or feel the adjuster, before stabbing it harder and harder! Get it wrong and you can easily damage the movement.
NOTE – if you check out the image of the movement above you might just make out the adjusters at the bottom of the image (in the shadow – sorry) – on the underside of the M of Movado and the C of Factories. There are 2 levers which move side to side, sprung – but straighten these and they fit nicely into the case apertures and pin holes.
These ones both work as they should, so adjusting the time, Day and Date is easy. In fact easier than many modern complication efforts – and amazingly it’s all contained in a very small movement within a small 17mm x 12mm case.
Movado Ladies Day & Date Calendar index model. Circa 1950
Yet to get hold of my Wife to get a wrist shot, but when I do, I’ll add it here at the end . . . . after this shot of it lying on my office desk.
Note – Oh as usual – if you don’t know, if you click on any image you should get an enlargement . . . . .
My second Auction purchase is this 1947 vintage Lord Elgin model. A 3 position adjusted 21 jewel Cal. 670 manual wind movement which is fully signed and working beautifully, keeping excellent time. Not bad for a watch that’s 70 years old.
Lord Elgin 1947/50 21 jewel articulated Gents watch
This model has articulated lugs, a feature I’ve always admired (in fact I have a few modern watches with this) and these are particularly nice. The dial here is Cognac coloured with black Roman numerals and a subsidiary Seconds dial, with gold hands. The Swiss Made script I expected at the foot of the dial is hidden and actually covered over by a coloured slick of paint, so I assume this dial has been refinished at some point in it’s life – the paint used maybe to protect the Swiss text. Whatever, it was very well done and as the dial is really good I’m certainly not about to fiddle around with it. It is what it is . . . .
Neat articulated lugs, snap fit back in A1 condition.
The case is in great condition, 14K Gold Filled and no marks or rubbing at all. The back is similar and is a very definite snap fit. The high domed glass is perfect and overall the watch looks great. The strap is an after market leather one which is absolutely fine and obviously new. I like the upper and lower case decoration, it’s nicely figured and well done and lifts the watch somewhat from the more usual square faced models I’ve seen.
The watch dimensions are 22 mm wide and with the hinged lug design it means the lug to lug is nearly 46 mm, so when on the wrist this watch looks perfect for today. On the wrist it looks bigger than you would think.
On the wrist looks bigger than it is owing to the extended hinged lug arrangement.
I’ve always liked Lord Elgin and in fact Elgin watches in general as they were very well priced in their day, affordable and great value for money. And in saying this, it is gratifying to see that you can pick up a model today such as this for under £40 at auction, which when you consider the style and the fact that this watch works well, is accurate, doesn’t need a battery, looks good and has already lasted 70 years or so – it really can’t be bad!
One of the reasons perhaps why I buy vintage watches. The other is that I like the look of them. They often have a style and elegance that seems to be missing from the majority of models offered these days AND of course I wear them. They are not solely confined to a display cabinet or box, because I wear them all in rotation and they all must function. I mean that’s what they were made for in the first place and never intended as inanimate objects, but real-time recorders of time.
I have in my collection a few models that I suppose are true vintage in that they are pre’ 1900 and I always make a point of wearing them often, despite the fact that shock suppression wasn’t the best if there at all.
Let’s face it, it didn’t stop people wearing them then, so why should it now? I usually find in these really old models a certain mechanical quality that’s often so good, that a well looked after watch that’s been around maybe 100/150+ years or so hardly diminishes at all – and I like that!
Watch space 
You must be logged in to post a comment.