Swatch again

Every so often, maybe every year or so, I tend to look at what Swatch have in store. They are, after all a unique brand of timepiece that on many levels just works.
So much so that I have a few myself, even though I would at one time balked at the idea of plastic cases and straps, some transparent too and with a pretty decent quartz movement plus an easy fit/replace battery.  Now the plastics are being replaced with bio-sourced materials and many are so light weight it’s easy to forget you have one on your wrist.

A couple I noted this time are a little bit different.

First is the SO34G700, a green cased one from what’s called the “What if “ from the bio-ceramic range. And this one breaks tradition a bit as it’s square.

It’s quartz and it comes in a very green formed case – bio-ceramic of course, as is the glass and strap, though not the buckle. Officially the bulk of this model is both ceramic and bio-sourced and all a bit beyond me, but I quite like it. The Water Resistance if perhaps a bit minimal at 2Bar, but par for the course with these.

A big plus for this model though is the face or dial. It’s big and it’s clear, so no specs needed AND it shows the Day and the Date @3 and has what is termed “glow” hands, so presumably you should see the time in the dark. It also has a sweep seconds hand, which is always useful.

The watch size is 41.80mm and 10.50mm depth and as I say – it is Square. The glass is also square and with enough bulk to almost read the indices from the side.
Note on the back (not shown here) is an image of a round faced dial on the battery cover. Not sure why.
Whilst I don’t have many square watches in my collection, this one is different and modern enough to warrant my attention. So, I could be tempted, maybe.

However, at £91.00 it’s perhaps not the cheapest, but that said, not the dearest either, so the choice is yours.

The second model I’ve spotted is quite different – this is the “Blue Away” SO28K700-S14, from the Swatch Essentials category, which is again all bio, though the case this time is transparent, with a contrasting blue silicon strap, with plastic buckle. The dial is also blue with contrasting coloured hour, minute and sweep seconds hands.

It also features a Day and Date window@3 and this time marginally more Water resistant at 3Bar and the watch size is considerably

smaller than the first watch featured here.  Just 34mm, 8.75mm depth and 39.20 lug to lug, with the almost traditional Swatch 3 pronged strap fitting.
The dial features a nice colour combination, which again is very easy to read.

This model comes in at a very respectable £64.00 and wears as a very neat and compact watch on the wrist.

I rather like it.

So another look at what personally takes my interest in the Swatch world. Probably not to other’s taste, who knows. But once again Swatch comes up with new ideas, in what are very affordable, Swiss made quartz accuracy – their philosophy seems to work as they’re still around.

Till next time . . . . . .

Smart Health H-Band EP03

Most folks who regularly check out my web site, are probably aware that I am no lover of “smart” watches. This is because I don’t particularly like the idea of a device that sits there and duplicates what you’re doing on your cell phone. Usually as both the “smarty” and the Cell, are only about a foot or so apart, so doesn’t make a lot of sense to me. Then there is the battery life, which as a mechanical and quartz watch collector, I see as almost always laughable. Now where IS that damned charger?

But recently, after a few heart scares, I looked around and checked out some of the models that tell you something about your health. I wanted one that was more geared towards health than so called fitness.

I eventually decided on this “health” model – and it’s surprisingly good. I have seen the same software and App with other names and a few different watch models and shapes too, but this is the one I got.

It’s the H Band EP03 and whilst it has the ubiquitous and rather bland, black rectangular look, the stuff inside is actually pretty useful and the display is outstanding.

And no, I am NOT taking up jogging!

First and foremost, it tells the time and the 5 or so choices on the watch are enough for me (they have others). I picked one that was big and clear (as main pic above) and swiping left or right leads you to the main functions, health-wise and I show here some of the display views.

Coupled to this is the App (I have iPad) which gives a comprehensive detail and interpretation of any results. It certainly does a lot more than the classic pump your arm up and read the basic dial of my old Boots unit.

Incidentally I got it on the 8th and the battery is still going after a week – they quote around 15 days standby?  It’s charged via a tiny magnetic fool-proof connection to a USB thingy- and takes about 4 hours I think to charge.

My selected ‘Watch dial’ – shows the time, the day, my last manual pulse check figure and also the number of steps so far for the current day. Basic stuff I know, but that’s fine for me. Swipe it to the right or left and we’re on to the other functions. And Up takes you to some other options and Down to messages/emails etc.
There’s the usual Pedometer with Step numbers, Calories burnt and Distance covered, if you’re into that, though quite useful, especially as I’m on a diet and needing some exercises to assist.

Cycling (sorry) through the next few swipes in order – and note the watch runs and records all the time on most functions – you get constant readings of Pulse and Blood Pressure, Blood Glucose, Blood oxygen, Body temperature, Sleep patterns (constant at night) and the weather (local using your location). You can run an ECG (there is a sensor plate on the left side of the watch) and in addition it has a chest sticker and lead to assist too, if more detail is required.

But you can manually do all the above ON the watch itself.

It’s as easy as swipe the dial through the different tests and either press the screen or the arrow and that’s pretty much it.

The App I have discovered (I have iPad and iPhone) has an amazing amount of detail versus the basic test figures shown on the dial and has some really detailed analysis data. I don’t think  you can print these out – but I took a screen shot of some of the data pages and it works for me.

You can of course add notifications for all today’s media stuff (Facebook, Twitter, Snapchat and all that stuff – none of which I subscribe to, but also phone messages, email, alerts and lots of things I’ve never heard of!
I’ve got notification of emails, which I confess was handy as a reminder to check my email!

But all the main stuff is easy to see, easy to use and gives comprehensive data to reassure you that are still alive! Though in my case, at times – just!

I tend to wear it all day until I have bath at night, then wear it again before bed, then repeat the next day etc.

Blood Pressure and Pulse accuracy –

Now this has always been a bit contentious according the folk who know and all I can do is to use it, then compare both BP and Heart Rate against my Boots upper arm cuff Unit, which IS accurate.

It is fact that wrist cuffs as opposed to upper arm cuffs give different readings. The wrist cuffs are roughly +5% higher for Systolic and around +10% for Diastolic readings. Basically this is owing to positioning (wrist is lower than upper arm).

I have found that this unit, which uses an Optical sensor system is around +5% for Systolic and +10/12%% Diastolic and for BP is just about on par with the Boots Unit.
The instructions say that for BP and Pulse readings, the wrist should be palm down and level with the heart for best results  Knowing this you can have a reasonably accurate set of measurements.  And when sleeping, the figures are possibly more accurate, being on the same horizontal plane.

As to the App – this is surprising – as it interprets the data and gives an assessment based on the overall readings over 24 hours – and that is very useful.
In fact, it can show you issues that are either pre-existing or factors you might be advised to see your Doctor about – you never know.

The analysis of the recorded data is quite remarkable and could pick up heart anomalies, of which you may not be aware. Heart Rate readings are taken every 5 minutes from midnight to 07.00am and present in groups of 5 readings usually, which gives an excellent indicator during sleep. Also Blood Pressure is taken constantly over the 24 hour period. You can review these on the App, as it stores 3 days readings, so you can get a good idea of how you’re doing.
It also checks out your heart health Index, which surprisingly is 72 for me, which is in the normal range (60 – 100 is in the normal range). There is also a very interesting analytical reading displayed as the Lorentz Scatter diagram, which can give indications as to your heart wellbeing.

So overall a pretty comprehensive set of checks and analysis – all on your wrist.  Clever stuff indeed.

However, as with all these new and available to all systems and software – if in doubt – see you Doctor. Remember that medical checking and monitoring equipment used by the professionals are checked for accuracy regularly. (this unit, you buy and use at your own discretion).

Sleep pattern – discovered mine wasn’t great and could be a LOT better and as a result, I’ve modified my life habits accordingly, and to my benefit I have to admit. Now my deep sleep has increased and I feel fitter and have a little bit more energy.

Pedometer – Well, I don’t subscribe to the 12,000 steps a day rubbish it suggested I should do for optimum health (at my age?).
I say this as in the News recently, the latest science says- maybe 5,000 steps – but the current medical view seems to suggest 2500 steps is acceptable to keep joints and muscles working reasonably well.  And at my age, well, I do what I can do (I have set 2500 as my goal).

But I’m impressed with this ‘device’ (wow! That’s a modern expression for me) as it does what I want it to do, clearly and easily.

(I understand it can also do routes and fitness programs IF needed, because it has a GPS function – I mean it also gives our local weather – AND it is very local and accurate, which surprised me!

But for simplicity it’s great, because that’s what I want. I use it purely for the basic heath stuff and for that I have to give it 5 stars.

It also didn’t break the Bank at under £60, so it was worth giving it a shot. And I’m pleased I did.  And it has a Water Resistance spec to IP67, so if you’re caught in the rain or if you dunk it in the sink, you should be OK. There’s no facility on the App, as far as I can see, to Print the data, but you can “share” data – which seems to be an image file of the selected App screen results, to email or any other App that will accept it – so you could print that.

But, don’t let this thing rule your life  – I know a couple who do everything with their ‘device’ and some of what they do, seems distinctly unhealthy to me!

But hey! They’re young!

However I’ll repeat what I wrote earlier – As with all these new and available to all systems and software – if in doubt – see you Doctor.
Remember that medical monitoring equipment used by medical professionals are checked for accuracy regularly
(whereas, this unit, you buy and use at your own discretion).

For me though, I like this little unit.  It gives an insight into your general health and a general set of clues as to how you are doing – and that has to be good.

Note – This review updated 26/08/2023 – added “share” info. Unit is working flawlessly and I’m working too! not flawlessly, but OK for me.

Farer (UK design) Swiss watch

Nice to come across the British independent watch designer Farer, who feature a range of new high quality Swiss Made models, of which two have my interest. Both feature cushion shaped cases, which can be very attractive and a move away from the ubiquitous round cases. Sometimes this shape doesn’t attract, but in the case of Farer, they most certainly do.

Farer ‘Durham’ Cushion Case manual

The first one is the manual wind ‘Durham’ Cushion model of which there are 4 different styles, with various dial and strap colours. Each is beautifully configured with high quality cut dials and a 316 stainless steel cushion shaped case. This has a tan strap, but there are other ones available.

The case in a neat size at 38.5 mm diameter and slim too at just 10.5 mm. A running seconds sub dial @6, which is indented and great contrasting black ‘Dauphine’ hour and minutes hands make for a very stylish look. The curved Sapphire crystal has multi-layered Anti-reflective coatings on the inside, compliments by a Sapphire crystal exhibition back. The strap fitting is 20 mm and the Water Resistance is 5 ATM, so from a WR view, it is a dress watch.

The movement is a Sellita SW216- 1 24 jewel Elabore grade manual wind, 28,000 vpl with a 45 hour reserve once fully wound.
Made in Switzerland by Ruventa Henex who supply Private Label movements and a highly respected manufacturer.

This model is priced at £895, so perhaps for some a little pricey, but for the quality and styling, for me it represents good value.

The second model that really takes my fancy is the titanium series Aqua Compressor Endevour 11, with a slightly different profiled cushion case style. This tough Titanium grade 11 is also very light weight at just 62 grams.

Endevour Series 11

Note – More information on the Compressor grade Titanium case is on their web site –

The Dive Compressor, Reinvented.

Endevour lume – impressive

This model has a serious Water resistance rating of 300m and features the Sellita SW200-1 26 jewel Automatic movement, which I’ve met before on some very good watches. And known as a great reliable movement.

Sellita SW200-1, 26 jewel Automatic

 

 

 

 

The Endevour is slightly larger at 41 mm diameter and 12.5 mm depth, but still neat as modern day watches go and it features  a double domed Sapphire crystal, again with multi-layer Anti-reflective coating on the internal surface.

The dial this time is designed for great clarity in poor light and underwater, with wide hour and minute hands and a centre sweep split seconds hand seen against a black light absorbing matte surface. The dial bezel is internal – but the images speak for themselves.

Price is £995 – which for high quality Brit design (Swiss Made) is pretty decent value in my book. Might be tempted myself!

With a guarantee of 5 years on all their movements plus a 30 day (if you don’t like it – return it – in unworn as new condition of course). What’s not to like.

Through and through.

My previous experience with a skeleton watch was some years ago (long gone now) and have to say, it just never lived up to my expectation.  Mostly because the whole dial was so taken up with a trellis style frame, which held the movement in place, I struggled a), to see the movement properly and b), to make out the time.

CigaDesign Hollow skeleton Automatic

Now OK, I get the point that the function is really to show the inner, rather than the outer, but that particular watch, just didn’t do it for me.  You don’t need a frame holding the movement getting in the way and with a solid a minute/hour index around the circumference, again obscuring the view, then it’s not really skeleton at all.

Zirconia ceramic hollow cased Skeleton

But, as with the nature of the beast – as they say – skeleton is skeleton.

However, the watch in my opinion has to look good and different too, so design has to be an important consideration. I’ve also seen so called skeleton models with quartz movements, where quartz and movement are for me a contradiction in terms – the only moving parts being the hands and maybe a cogwheel? which seems hardly worth the effort.

However, I was intrigued by the modern look and style of what’s called the ‘full hollow’ design –  and this is the CIGADesign ‘Forbidden City Ceramic Edition’ automatic skeleton – and right from the shape of the case, to the material used and the overall design, this just seems that bit different from other skeletons around.

Soft silicon buckle strap for extreme comfort

It’s a nice size at 41mm x 41mm, has a proper Sapphire crystal over an intriguing and beautifully crafted made, subtly dark, high strength Zirconia full hollow ceramic case.  And being hollow, pretty much the whole movement working detail can be seen from either the front or the back, so a true skeleton. It is coupled with a quick release 22mm ultra soft silicon hi-colour strap and buckle. Very comfortable to wear too.

Front view & movement – CigaDesign Hollow skeleton

It’s also pretty good value compared with many and cost effective, in that it’s powered by a SeaGull ST1646K, 19 jewel Automatic mechanical movement. This features a 40 Hour Power Reserve, 21,600A/h and with an accuracy of -15 to +30 seconds per day, which once settled in and running on the wrist can be pretty decent.

Designed by Zhang Jianmim, the Design Brand Founder from China, it belies those who still think China watches are somehow inferior – this one is a very decent watch, from the inspired design to the very different, modern look and a high quality result.

This model comes in three colours – Dusk Blue, Midnight black and the one featured here is Sunset red.

Rear view window – showing SeaGull Auto rotor

At first meeting, in the flesh, as it were and on the wrist, it certainly appears as a rather stunningly attractive watch.  The design has also been approved by the Industry and has both the Red Dot Award and the 2019 German Design Award.

As to clarity – well that’s always the issue with any skeleton watch.  The fact that skeleton has to be see-through and the outer hands are the time indicators, it’s tricky.  My personal test is to give the watch a glance – if I can quickly read the time, it passes, if not, it doesn’t.  This model has silver flat hour and minute hands, also skeleton surprisingly and fortunately they tend to shine – so are just OK visible – so after a little wearing time, getting used to it, it might just pass my glance test. But the jury, it has to be said, is still out on this one. The sweep seconds hand is coloured red which should help.

The rear window view of course is not obscured by hands anyway and you can see the entire movement quite clearly.

SeaGull ST movement – (image CigaDesign copywrite)

In conclusion, it’s a comfortable watch on the wrist and a nice size, fits under a shirt cuff easily and when noticed, is always a talking point around the dinner table.  The hi-colour strap first catches the attention, then as the dark ceramic case and skeleton dial come into view, it’s usually, “Ooh I like that, where did you get it?”.

So, as said, this is my second skeleton model and yes, perhaps a little different to the usual. The CigaDesign full hollow skeleton a rather nice addition to my eclectic collection of watches and nice to have – PLUS – this one was affordable, looks good – and I have to admit, it suits me rather well – what could be better?  Well – that’s the question isn’t it?

In all honesty, I’m still unsure as to this skeleton idea, mostly because by it’s very nature, it is simply not as easy to read as a solid faced watch. And that’s the bottom line. It’s a personal choice at the end of the day, though for me, I think in future I’ll stick to solid dials – I mean my old eyesight ain’t going to bet better is it?

Note – All mages on this Post are taken of my own watch, except the exploded view of the modified SeaGull ST movement used in the watch model, shown here to the left, which is copywrite CigaDesign web site.

A favourite designer

A few years back I found a series of watches from a German designer, Rolf Cremer and I liked the look of their range of neat colourful watches. One model really took my fancy back then as it was unusual in that it was a small watch but with a large double date window @12.

Rolf Cremer Bogen Gent –  Double Date clarity.

Today looking at their current range, unfortunately I don’t see any double date windows this time, so just shows that when you see a model that really takes your fancy, you should buy it – assuming you can afford it.  I should have bought this one as it was very affordable at the time.  But too late now!

Rolf Cremer Tower Automatic

However as with most designers, they don’t stand still and they have plenty of new designs on their web site

I like this one. This is the Rolf Cremer Tower Automatic Date watch in red and black, which has a great modern look. The lightning yellow sweep seconds hand is quite striking. The Date window @between 4 & 5 is unusual with the triangle background, again giving it a ‘look’ which is both interesting and clear. The crown is in keeping and is also triangular, with a colour insert in co-ordinating red. The leather strap is in dark red antique finish and compliments the overall look with a stainless steel buckle as is the case which is 42mm diameter.

Rolf Cremer Miyota automatic movement.

The movement is a quality mechanical automatic Miyota (can be seen via the clear glass back) which is a highly reliable workhorse and well suited to the Tower and Mech series of models.

Rolf Cremer Tower automatic 1 of 7 versions

There are 7 versions of this Tower model, all slightly different, but all very interesting and quite unique.  I show here another version, this time with a combination of numerals and markers and whilst in the same manner, has a quite different and individual look all of it’s own.

Suffice to say the range is wide and varied, the use of colour and shapes paramount to the look of this collection, from angles dials to offset faces and so on, it’s always refreshing to see.  One thing is certain, with such a range of diversity, it allows you to choose a model that matches with your own particular persona.  And that’s not an easy thing to manage.  Indeed a Rolf Cremer is immediately identifiable, but never boring.

Which is why they are always on my “Watch List” – Note – they also have quartz models too at a lower price-point. They can be viewed HERE.

Heat by Nixon

The last digital watch I noted from Nixon was the Regulus, which was fine, but whilst it promised all sorts of features, at the end of the day for me, it was simply too bulky and too fussy.  But of course that’s a personal issue for me, though I have always liked matrix digits.

Nixon ‘Heat’ digital

So I was really pleased to see “the Heat” – which is a very neater and slimmer digital matrix watch with a low profile, 2 simple front mounted pushers, hardened mineral crystal with its 30mm x 8mm super slim stainless steel case, coupled with a 20mm injection moulded rubber band (perforated design for durability, breathability and comfort).

It features the time of day, day/date and an auto calendar to 2099.  Additionally it has a chronograph function, 6 pre-set timers plus 2 custom timer options, plus a custom “SEND!” notification when less than 60 seconds remain.

It also has an EL backlight, so night time is no problem.  It also sports a second time zone should this be needed.

The night EL light can be selected in any mode by simply pressing both pushers together.

I also like the buckle arrangement on the strap, as this style invariably means it’s secure and looks good.  I also particularly like the colour of this one, which is a sort of bronzy, which sets it apart from the ubiquitous black.

So, I love the neat size and it has enough useful functions to honestly use and the price is not unreasonable.  Though personally I doubt I’d use many of the functions, which is sad – it seems as I grow older, knowing the time and the date is about all I need.

But regardless of my ageist comment, for me it meets the “daily beater” criteria nicely and that’s a consideration that some, these days have forgotten.  You wear it and forget it, basically.  Glance at it occasionally and you immediately see the time, the date and to manage that – you have done nothing but glance at it.

Sometimes simple, simple is the best and today that’s no bad thing.

Pricewise here in the UK it’s around the £150 mark and it’s about as no frills as you can get with a digital watch these days.

Longines vintage

Another Longines vintage watch from the 1950’s.

Longines fancy lug 1950’s watch

This midsize 30mm diameter, manual wind 23ZS 17 jewel movement model with it’s amazing fancy lugs is one of my favourites.  The lugs are much more substantial than many of this type, being very solid.  The D&A watch case is nicely polished in 14K filled Gold, and the dial has a black face with an inset machined inner, the hour, minute and centre seconds hands in matching gold, as are the applied arrowhead markers.  A Gold filled snap back cover and a size 18 black lizard leather strap completes the item.

Longines Calibre 23ZS centre seconds sweep.

Quite an expensive watch of it’s day and the 23ZS movement one of their great calibres, with 18000 a/h and a Power Reserve of 44 hours, this model is ticking away, keeping very good time after 65 years.  A darned sight more efficiently than I am!

I note this model has a snap back/base which when removed still holds the movement within it. To remove the movement it entails further and careful prying apart from the case base. I have not removed the movement here as I don’t wish to disturb it, but I show a image from a web source.

Model entry in Shugarts Complete Price Guide Edition 38.

Note – This model was one of a series and this version is featured on page 918 of the “2018 Complete Price Guide to Watches” Edition 38 by Gilbert, Planes, Engle, Gilbert & Shugart.  The other model shown is the sub-seconds version, with diamond markers.

The watch is in very good condition, possibly refurbished to some extent over the period and the movement shows some tarnishing, but not enough to cause any issues.  It keeps pretty decent time showing perhaps a minute slow near the end of it’s power reserve of 44 hours.  The crown is a little stiff, but other than that, a very nice addition to my vintage Longines collection.

My “everyday” chalk & cheese?

For the last 21 years, since 1999 my “everyday watch” has been my old Quartz Titanium Breitling Aerospace, basically as it has the features I use most.  Very easy to read, owing to it’s overhung minute hand and dial layout, plus it’s remarkable luminous quality (especially with narrow hands), a very clear digital Day and Date display, extreme comfort, good water resistance and excellent time keeping with Auto calendar function.  It’s neat size is another bonus (unlike current models) and just 9mm thick.  So what’s not to like?  Plus it has other hidden functions, which I really never use and I’m very happy with it.  Battery life around 5 or 6 years.

Breitling Aerospace 1999 Great “Daily Beater”.

But I thought just for fun, I’d have a look again at what constitutes a true everyday watch , this time with a bias towards the ubiquitous “recreational”  or “diver like” models, because these mostly provide features I’d consider what an everyday watch should have, often as standard.

Most are tough built, easy to read and with a decent water resistance to a bit more than a few splashes from the kitchen sink.  Plus you can see the time at night – so good luminosity is a definite.  A model you can confidently strap on your wrist, whatever you’re doing and don’t look out of place even at dinner and know it will be just fine, whatever is thrown at it – and still look good.  A jack of all trades, if you will!

Now, from a personal viewpoint, I’m avoiding those larger and sometimes over-macho models, as I have a small to medium wrist and if it’s too big, then it can look silly, which makes me look the same.  Some of the recreational styles can be over-sized in the misconception that more features is good.  And for everyday wear, it really isn’t.  Think more of what you actually need and be honest.

Looking through my own collection of over 140 watches now, I didn’t have to look far as my “other” everyday model is one of my favourites – the very affordable Apeks 200m Diver Pro (at UNDER £100).  This was and still is offered by the Apeks Diving Company, known for their diving breathing apparatus mostly, but as a watch choice, have got it just about right.

On the wrist in standard strap – best fit I have and great “Daily” watch.

This is a Quartz model.  It is also very easy to read and the dial diameter and layout is good – giving the right separation of luminous markers on a matt background, which makes night reading really good, coupled with excellent luminous features.  It also has a Date AND Day, which is a useful everyday feature.  The watch is a neat size too, only 10.5mm thick, smooth stainless case, 44mm diameter incl’ crown, screw down protected crown and a superb polyurethane strap – flat on the inside against the wrist, so it VERY comfortable.  The watch back is also very flat. The uni-directional bezel has good knurl definition, so very easy to use.
In fact this is one of the few watches I’ve ever come across, that for me has no faults at all – nothing!

I found another “diver” style watch, an old favourite at the time – the very neat Citizen BN0000.04 Eco-Drive Promaster 300m Divers’ Watch, which I have owned for more years than I care to mention.  It differs from the Apeks, as it’s Eco-Drive, 300m Water Resistance, but it’s not in the same league for clarity – in that the solar sensor face is glossy, the hands and markers slightly too close for quick glance reading, especially at night (even though luminosity is good).  The Date window is a little small, the bezel ( an aluminium insert) is not as knurled as I would like and slopes away from the dial, so is not that easy to use (possibly gloves may give a better grip).

Citizen 300m Diver – decent “Daily Beater” too?

And, of course it’s Eco-Drive, so relies on solar energy (and why it resides near the window), which for me, to some extent is a drawback.  After all – I live in Scotland, where sun is in short supply and it’s always cold, which means the watch is almost exclusively UNDER my sleeve.  Now whilst Citizen say that once fully charged the watch should perform for 6 months, I’ve never chanced it.  But and I kid you not, it’s easy to forget how long it has NOT been in good light under normal wear, bearing in mind mostly under my sleeve.  But Hey!  It’s still a good everyday watch, though I’m sure there are better today. 

So I’ve come to the conclusion, for me, that battery Quartz (3 to 6 years), is OK as long as you accept if the battery dies, it’s bound to do it when you least expect it! But my personal preference, has to be the tried and tested mechanical Self-Winding Automatic, as it’s always ready and if worn, keeps going as long as you do!   😉

NEWS FLASH – I found in another display box, hidden under another etc. etc. a very smart blue Citizen Pro-Master NY0040-17E which does actually sport a mechanical Automatic movement and I intend to feature it very soon.  I thought? I had one of these, but unable to find it before this Post, was written . . . . So, more later . . . . .

Now I know someone will mention “kinetic”, but suffice to say, these are just not for me. (another story).

But, back to my quest.  Let’s look at what else is around today in that “recreational or Diver Style” that might fit as my everyday watch.

The first one I like the look of, for no other reason, that it has a very clean look, is the Szanto HLI Dive Watch.  A model I confess to never having heard of before.

Szanto HLI Dive Watch. Clear easy read 43mm Diameter.

Like the Apeks, it’s Quartz, also 200m Water Resistance, Date only (personally I prefer day and date), but a nice readable size.  Slightly larger case 43mm diameter (crown extra) and I believe a little thicker, so I’d really have to see one in the flesh as it were, as for me, size is very important (yes, I know, I’ve heard the jokes!!!)  It also has a uni-directional bezel, with K1 hardened Mineral Crystal and a tough stainless case.

But I like the look of it’s uncluttered face, should mean it’s an easy reader with it’s large markers.  I like the second hand lume DOT, which is always a nice touch.  The strap looks substantial without any over macho look.

However, in comparison with the Apeks it’s over double the price at around the £195 mark.

The next I’ve seen is the Orient FAA02003B9, again described as a Diver, though to me recreational is more acceptable and it is also 200m described.  This is the black version with a 22mm deployment bracelet.  The stainless steel case of 43mm diameter (ex crown) by 13mm thickness, so quite chunky.

Orient FAA0200 series 5D9 black 200m Diver

This watch, however is not quartz, but a self wind mechanical Automatic Japan F699 22 jewel movement and for me this is quite a good thing and perhaps even a plus.  It’s always ready for action (no battery requirement) and as long as you wear it, it runs.

I have heard reports that whilst it can be manually wound, some say it’s as good as it should be, but without first hand knowledge I can’t comment.  All I can say is that I have many automatic models with manual winding if required and I’ve never had any issues, ever.

It also has Day and Date, which I like, the window big enough to make reading easy and the dial is uncluttered too, again a good feature.  Big luminous hands and markers, so easy read.  Whether a bracelet is your thing or not, being a standard fit, an alternative strap or a Nato job is easy to source and fit.

I also note that, as with a number of Orient watches, whilst the movement is Japan made, the case is Chinese.  This seems to be an issue for some, though I’m perfectly fine with that and Orient themselves are quite open about it.  But let’s not get into the Chinese made component argument – find the completed product without an Asian reference is a tall order indeed, today.  (I even have an expensive vintage IWC watch and it’s case was made in Hungary!)
Anyway, the Orient is a nice watch and it can be purchased for around £180 on the Web and it just about fits the everyday watch requirement pretty well.

So, just two or three recreational Diver style models available at reasonable prices – that might meet the everyday description and there are plenty more.

The trick is to get one that’s not too big, it’s easy to read, day or night, has no gimmicky functions, can be used for the odd swim, tells you the time at a glance and for me, the date AND the Day is very useful and looks good (when you’re retired you never remember what darned day it is).  😉

Personally I like the Apeks, as it provides me personally with all I need and at a really good price.  It also has original replacement straps available, should I ever need one, but it’s nice to see.

What does seem amazing to me though, is that the two watches I wear most, may indeed be “chalk & Cheese”, but both provide my everyday requirements fully and yet are poles apart, price-wise!  But as always, it’s rarely price that determines your wrist companion, but whether it meets your personal requirement – and in this case, both manage exactly that function.
Differently, yes, but perfectly too.

I also reckon I’m pretty fortunate to have my old 1999 Aerospace, as today Breitling models are too big, too brash, and too expensive.  And the Apeks is it’s perfect companion and that suits me.  I don’t think that how much I trawl current offerings, I’ll not be changing any time soon!

IWC Da Vinci SL

My first Post of 2020 features a neat IWC Da Vinci SL model.

IWC Da Vinci SL Automatic

Calibre 37524 based on the ETA 2892.A2 is a 21 jewel, high quality Automatic rotor mechanical movement.  Specifically adjusted for IWC to an accuracy of 0/+7 seconds per day.  It runs at 28,800 A/h and has a 42 hour reserve, with Sapphire crystal, stainless Steel case and back and a central sweep seconds hand and date window @3.
The crown is a screw down type and WR is 50m.  The case is classic sized at approximately 37 mm in diameter and features articulated bar lugs, so is ideal for the smaller wrist and the strap (deployment) is a fine rubber material. (newer models have conventional 4 lug styles, but I prefer the neater bar arrangement).

IWC Da Vinci with signed deployment & articulated bar lug arrangement – year 2000

The silver dial features numerals and luminous makers and the hour and minute hands are also infilled with luminous material. Not as bright perhaps as a Divers watch, but fine for the odd time you may have to use it. This particular model was produced from 1988 to 2002 and this one is from around 2000, so already over 20 years old and in perfect, as new, pristine condition.

The strap is an IWC original rubberised material with a stainless deployment action and signed buckle.

This is one of my more recent acquisitions, when I was visiting Lucerne in Switzerland.  A great place for watches of course, but also not so well known is the fact it is also a great source of high quality pre-owned models, complete with full servicing and guarantees.  Unlike auctions, where buyer beware is still the watchword.

One of the neatest of the high end automatic models I have and for a pre-owned one, it is in remarkable condition. Whilst I have a good number of high-ends, the look and the price sold me on it. It will also tend to hold value which is good.

My Camaro 7743

Thought I’d show off my old Heuer Camaro 7743, a 1960’s classic if there ever was. Totally as bought, with it’s original and completely unscratched and un-stretched stainless bracelet fitting to the odd sized 19 mm lugs.  Pleased about that, as so often these bracelets scratch up badly – this one however, is pristine.

Classic of the Sixties, Cushion cased Stainless Heuer Camaro 7743.

In fact the entire watch, which is the Camaro 30, 2 register chronometer version, with running seconds and 30 minute sub-dials is in pretty decent condition.  The stainless 37 mm diameter cushion case shows off it’s sunburst upper surface, which is still well detailed.  It is of course a manual wind model with the Cal Valjoux 7733 movement (one of the nicer movements out there even today) and a Plexiglass crystal.  The applied index markers with luminous batons are in perfect condition, as are the main luminescent infill hour and minute hands.  A nicely configured black seconds chrono hand completes the dial assembly.  The sub-dials are especially neat as they incorporate a circular background pattern. In short, this is a real classic watch dial set up and looks rather better balanced that many watches today.

Heuer Camaro 30 7743 classic timepiece from the sixties. Great on the wrist!

The pushers are the castellated version, so slightly later in production, which only lasted 4 years. The centre crown winder manages on full wind around 45 hours power reserve, which is very impressive.  The stainless steel screw back is plain with no markings, the model number being engraved on the case side between the lugs.

The solid cushion case, even at 37mm, which is perhaps considered small today, looks great on any wrist and sits so well, it is a delight to wear.

I have never removed the back, so the water resistance is unlikely to have been compromised and unless the watch has a movement problem, I’ll probably never break in to it, but I show here a stock image of a typical 7733 movement, though I fancy my one might look even better.

Valjoux 7733 Chrono movement – 
Image from Chrono24

It is a fact that there are really not many of this model around in really good condition, which surprises me, though with Plexiglass crystal, it’s a material that’s easily scratched.  Mine has not completely escaped either, as there are two shallow scratches on the glass, but fortunately neither detract from the beauty of this watch.

I love it when a 50 year old watch gets my attention once again and springs to life from my display cabinet. This one is I think destined for my wrist for the rest of the year and long overdue.  It’s great to wear, great to look at and it functions today as well as it did all those years ago.  It is also extremely accurate and it’s proved a decent investment too – not always the case when it comes to watches.

It is also the ONLY Heuer I own (a bit like my Rolex collection – one from 1960, and one from 1920’s).

OK, I admit it – I’m picky!