Swatch strap “do-it-yourself” (update)

So I got my first Swatch watch and I did say in my last but one Post review that the rubber strap was pretty comfortable. However that said, one of the issues with thick rubber straps and large buckles (as the Irony Swatch watch here has) is the strap is a little bulky, resulting in the watch not always lying as flat as one might like.

New strap - craft knife and a bit of care. — Do-it-yourself black non Swatch standard silicon deployment strap – a craft knife and a bit of care.

But what to do? Especially as Swatch watches tend to have those non-standard case/strap fittings, which is all very fine but replacement straps have to be Swatch and in fact a nice after market earner for Swatch with third party ones short on the ground. That said, Swatch are one of the few around that don’t charge silly prices for their replacement straps, but you might like I do here, want an alternative for your own reasons. And with the Irony series the “dovetail” fittings are often tricky to replace if you go do off OEM.

However as I’ve just found out, it’s not impossible. If you have reasonable do-it-yourself craft knife skills, you can make a standard, easily sourced strap fit OK. And it’s not rocket science, believe me.

Original strap removed - simple push through pin — Original strap removed – simply push through pin

One measurement is required initially to determine the basic strap size and that’s to measure the overall width of the strap where it meets the Swatch case – or more accurately the outer edge of the lug to lug distance measurement is required initially to determine the basic strap size and that’s to measure the overall width of the strap where it meets the Swatch case – or more accurately the outer edge of the lug to lug distance.

Once you have checked it and in the case of this Irony model would you believe it – it’s just about 23 mm wide and not your average size. So basically we’re either using 22mm or 24mm strap and in this case the 22 mm fits OK. The larger size is too wide for the case/strap fitting and looks wrong.

To remove the original strap – simply push the pin inwards until it sticks out the other end. Then grip the protruding end with pliers and pull the pin straight out. The strap is now clear of the watch case as shown above.
Note that the Swatch strap end is quite thick with a rounded profile compared to normal straps, but fortunately the 22 mm Silicon deployment strap is thick enough to manage. Taking note of the cut dovetails in the end of the Swatch strap and using a craft knife or similar with the original strap as a template, cut through the gaps to make a copy of the dovetail shape on the new strap.

Use the original strap as a template - cut through with craft knife — Use the original strap as a template – cut through with craft knife. You can also use notching pliers, though they are better used on leather.

This is THE most important and delicate part of the operation, so take care! Be careful not to make the slots too long – otherwise when offered to the case there will be unsightly gaps. Too short however and you won’t be able to push the new strap in far enough to locate the pin. But err on the small side anyway – you can always cut more if required.

First trial - cut out a new green silicon strap as the original dovetail end — First trial – cut out a new green silicon strap as the original dovetail end

Once done, it should look pretty much like the original dovetail strap from Swatch, as shown.

Do the same for the other end of the strap and you are good to go.

Offer the new strap up to the case, hold it tight in against the case and once aligned, slip the pin in as far as it will go. Then simply hold the watch towards a hard surface and push down gently, keeping the strap end well into the dovetail slots on the case – the pin slides in and you’re done.

IMPORTANT – although with rubber straps it’s easy as they are almost self-lubricating, other materials may be stiffer. So when pushing the pin in and be gentle at first, then steadily push the pin STRAIGHT in till it’s just within the case hole. If your watch case is steel or aluminium it’s easy, but take extra care if your case is plastic – they could split if forced.
However with some silicon deployment straps the hole is slightly larger than Swatch pin holes so it’ll easily slide in. Also don’t worry about the pin falling out – you have a total of 7 aligned holes to slide the pin through, 4 rigid metal ones and 3 flexible silicon ones – the pin has to go though them all – friction alone holds it secure.

Decided on a 22 mm black standard silicon deployment strap from Ebay.

However the maxim in this operation is “take care” and if you do then it should really not be a problem.

So there you are – a little bit of do it yourself, with only a pair of pliers (to pull out the pin) a sharp craft knife (mine is an old Stanley) a standard 22 mm silicon deployment strap from ebay and a Swatch replacement strap is certainly doable.

Note – My first effort with the spare 24 mm black strap worked OK with my copy template idea, but the strap was just too wide for the watch. Decided I’d try again but with a similar green one, as the original). A 22mm width this time was perfect and took me just 10 minutes from start to finish.

A business opportunity? Well maybe for somebody – but me – I’m retired!

OK here’s the update –

22 mm deployment strap from Ebay - cut to size for Swatch Irony. — 22 mm deployment green silicon strap from Ebay – cut to size for Swatch Irony.

Finished article - standard 22 mm silicon strap cut to fit - just DIY at the end of the day. — Finished article – standard 22 mm silicon strap cut to fit – just DIY at the end of the day.

I’d it as before (slightly neater now) and slid the pins in and all went OK. Have to admit the new green strap looks just great and compliments the dial colour scheme as it should.

Matches the original color scheme nicely! — Matches the original colour scheme nicely! Well as near as I can get it!

Rip Curl Atom – no frills value

Seems I get asked all sorts of question these days, regarding my opinion on what model will do this or that or will this one be suitable for whatever. And I try my best to give a sensible opinion, but with the proviso, that it’s just my opinion, nothing more, nothing less. The latest one yesterday was – “What digital watch can I get – not too expensive now, (he meant cheap – I know him well!) that isn’t a blasted Casio (his words, not mine) or a Timex or any of them things?”. (his grammar too! – he’s going to love me when he sees this Post! LOL). And he added, “And it’s like you always say, I want to be able to read the damned thing!”

The Rip Curl Atom - Digital Watch A2701 — The Rip Curl Atom – Digital Watch A2701

Not that easy then I thought as there are virtually lots and lots of cheap digitals out there that are indeed almost illegible and unreadable, or look silly and outlandish, then there’s the stealth look (you can’t see it let alone read it!) and so on and on . . . .

But against all the odds, I found this nice little Rip Curl Atom model that to my mind fits the bill perfectly. It sports a neat digital look, slightly retro I suppose, and the case is a nice size at 42mm and constructed of a light weight high impact resistance ABS plastic, coupled to a soft polyurethane strap (OK in hot or cold climates).
The strap fitting is eminently sensible with standard spring bars, so that’s a plus in my book. The digital readout is large and clear with Date/Time/Stopwatch/Countdown Timer/Dual Time/Alarm and back light and it’s depth rated Water Resistant up to 100m and that’s also very good.
Added to that is a Guarantee that is better than many with 5 years on the movement, 2 years on the Water Resistance and 1 year on the battery.

What I like most about this watch is the fact it has no distractions, no large obtrusive buttons, and no over-shrouding of them either (Casio take note), the strap can be as shown or black or almost anything, as you can so easily change it and there’s other colors including a Yellow cased version (add in the 100m Water Resistance and I can see snorkelers loving this for holidays). Not surprising really as Rip Curl also have GPS enabled surfing & positional models.

The dial/case is not over burdened with advertising or text for dummies in fancy colors either, which makes a welcome change from some of the stuff thats around. In short; it’s super simple, quite well specified module wise and not a lot wrong with it at all, and if you want to steer clear of (and my friend certainly does) the ubiquitous mainstream big three styles, then I would think this is the one to get.

It’s also not expensive at around £50 here in the UK, so you can’t really go wrong and it certainly won’t break the bank.

Personally I find it’s rather refreshing to see a model that keeps things in perspective, has modern digital yet familiar lines, easy to read, no gimmicks and with a guarantee that seems pretty sensible to me.

And if I was looking myself for a straight forward digital watch, I might join my friend and put in a joint order – one for him and one for me!

Note – You might be forgiven for thinking that this non mainstream model might suffer from a lack of instructions, but you would be wrong. They have quite a few files around showing their different displays and so on plus a reasonably good overview one, which shows a variety of version instructions. The following images I think are for the Atom model shown here. To enlarge just click on the image.

Rip Curl Atom instructions (2) — Instructions for Rip Curl Atom (2)

It does show one thing and that is to get yourself a decent no frills digital watch with good functions and looks, you don’t have to rely on the same old Casio or Timex formats. These of course are the top dogs and the front runners driving investment in technology and so on, but their respective styles can sometimes once in a while seem, dare I say – boring.

A bit like that old car you’ve had for years and the same model replacement you always get – it’s sometimes nice to get a different dash to look at over the next few years and in fact you may be surprised.

As I was with this Atom watch – and at £50? A nice surprise!

The Swatch Irony Green Wink?

Odd title for a watch – I certainly pick ’em! – but this is my first Swatch Watch. The Swatch Irony Green Wink YSC565 model chronograph.

Swatch Green Wink YCS565 from the Irony series

Now, I never really got into the Swatch thing, though recognize it is a real phenomenon and incredibly popular. In fact one of my friends is very in to it, as she loves and collects the Art Deco and high colour models that have appeared over the years.

Born out of a fight back to the effects of the Quartz evolution, which caught out traditional Watch Making to such an extent their manufacturing base was decimated – in Switzerland from 1600 watchmakers in 1970, to some 600 remaining in 1983. Swatch, the name of which is (apparently) a contraction of “second watch” pulled things together by developing a revolutionary cheap, disposable (second watch concept), plastic cased watch series having only 51 moving parts (usually 91 in mechanical models) and revolutionized the “analogue” concept against the new digital.

Typical Swatch unisex - Clownfish watch - Red - SUOR102 — Typical Swatch unisex – Clownfish watch – Red – SUOR102

The idea was to try and set a new trend targeted towards the entry level market, which was lost to digital, by producing a plastic trendy model not easily replicated initially by this new competition. And it worked!

One of the new concepts was that the watch back was actually utilized as the base plate of the actual movement, resulting in the thinnest watch – the Delirium in 1979. They also used a new automated production system, which drastically reduced costs – the result was very affordable to the user and found amazing popularity. In less than 2 years this resulted in sales of over 2.5 million Swatches sold.
With coloured, printed dials with popular political and social trend images to catch the imagination, this made them THE watch to get for the new trendy age. Everyone who was anyone just had to have a Swatch Watch and the Swiss were on the move.

The Clownfish in Red shown above is typical, is a semi-skeletal format with different colour highlight parts showing in the dial. But at today’s best price of £47.00 whilst it looks OK it’s maybe a little on the high side and for me seems at odds with their “second watch”, throwaway concept – so whilst OK, yeah, yeah I get it, they are not for me.

So my first foray into the Swatch world is this year and I’ve at long last got myself the Swatch Irony Green Wink model (image at top of page) – and for three reasons.

1) I thought it time to have a Swatch watch in my collection and –

2) it’s traditional but neat and quirky and I love the colour, dial/hands design/layout and –

3) I found it heavily discounted – so in my book this was and has proved to be bargain at £68.00 – as it is a very decent watch, Swatch or not.

Now it’s not the Swatch original plastic case style of previous images, nor the minimal mechanical movement, because the Irony Green Wink is ETA Quartz, and it’s analogue, but it’s a Swatch Watch in a Classic style, but with the Swatch touch.

Great colorway with the green Wink from Swatch — Great dial set with the Green Wink from Swatch

So here we have the Swatch Irony series Green Wink Chronograph Grey watch – YSC565.

The Green Wink dial design is outstanding and gets noticed.

Bit of a mouthful I know, but it is worth the saying. It features a smooth sculpted grey brushed steel case (not plastic) of approximately 40 mm x 12 mm dimensions with a bright green 20 mm wide very soft rubber strap and brushed stainless steel double buckle, with 3 bar (30 m) Water Resistance. The dial is something else with a silver/grey background and those super profile sculpted hands in black edging with white infill, a black well defined centre Chronograph counter seconds hand, 3 x sub-dials (one in matching green is 60 minutes) right hand one is 1/10 intermediate times with white pointers, the one @6 is the counting seconds dial, and a Date Window @3, this is a very smart watch indeed.

Note – as with quartz chronographs, sometimes after a battery change or a hard knock, the hands can sometimes be dislodged or get out of position. To sort this on the Irony I refer you to Pages on right lower side menu – Watch Data & Instruction Manuals – scroll down to Swatch – Web (instructions/chronographs) or click HERE

On the wrist - sits well at 40mm x 12.5mm depth. Lug to lug is just 45mm. — On the wrist – sits well at 40mm x 12.5mm depth. Lug to lug is just 45mm.

A deceptively simple but cleverly profiled acrylic crystal to look through and a Swiss quality 4 jewel ETA Quartz movement inside and with battery access coin slot hatch on the back, this is actually a very well made and specified watch in the best Swiss Swatch tradition.

Neat battery access hatch within this quality molded steel case. — Neat battery access hatch within this quality moulded steel case.

The chronograph buttons I like as they are different, they have rounded tops and dial wise, the features are also different and quirky, from the colour to the hand profiles – it looks interesting.

Eye catching strap in very soft and comfortable rubber - gives a neat fit. — Eye catching strap in very soft and comfortable rubber – gives a neat fit.

This particular model is from the 2012 Fall/Winter collection and was designed in 2011. The battery is a 394 or 395, either fits, so easily sourced and the watch comes with a Swatch 2 year Guarantee.
It is also quite comfortable to wear with that soft rubber compound strap, though for me it has a sort of “think” feel to it. Note the double buckle arrangement, means you can use it two different ways, either under the metal or over (shown here as under) it is actually more comfortable with the strap over the buckle and using the single keeper only. However, I would prefer a simple buckle – period. As to the straps longevity – we’ll just have to see how it goes but first impressions are OK!

Note the double buckle arrangement - does away with two keepers — Note the double buckle arrangement – does away with two keepers, but I’m not so sure?

Note – The dial background is slightly shiny (Internet images show it as almost matt) yet the crystal profile is such that it seems to defy any legibility issues. Whether this is by accident or design I don’t know, but it doesn’t cause a problem at all. I thought this was going to be my minor criticism, but in the event wasn’t and isn’t.

So my verdict on this model is – I love it!

Addendum Note – in the event, I did decide to change the strap to a silicon deployment type. And on a later a POST I show how to fit a my new strap to it – you can access it HERE

Ralph see through

The last Ralph Lauren watch I featured here I liked very much and this year it seems that RL have produced yet another model that appeals to me, though at a price that doesn’t! I hasten to add that I am not implying that it’s not worth it, just that I can’t afford it! 😦

Ralph Lauren Automotive Skeleton for gents

But this RL Automotive Skeleton model is a beauty even though it costs around £23000.

With a rich Amboyna burl wood bezel and overall black colored background and super clarity, you would be forgiven in thinking this description could never apply to a skeleton watch and normally you would be right. However RL have managed the impossible here and produced just that – a skeleton watch that you can read- easily!

Amboyna burl wood by the way (I know I’d never heard of it either) is apparently what was/is sometimes used in luxury motors. The inspiration for this model is the famous 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe.

The Hands are black oxidised plus infill Super-luminova, steel and brass inner elements, shot blasted stainless steel case and a specially worked RL1967 movement (their first skeleton) says quality from top to bottom.

RL cossetted in Amboyna wood, Superluminova and see though - and easily read! — RL cossetted in Amboyna wood, Superluminova, Skeletal and easily read!

Seems to me they’ll have to sell a few of these seeing as RL as of February this year had seen a slump in trading performance and disappointing forecasts. Of course these things are relative and not being a high flier myself, I’m sure a few tweaks here and there, some sell offs etc. they’ll bounce back. (if only business was that easy!).

However IF you can afford one of these babies, then I doubt you would lose sleep on your investment as it is a great watch and I understand they intend producing 6 new models based on Old classic cars for 2015. This is the first model in the series and I can’t wait for the others, ‘cos they’re going to be darned good to beat this one!

Maybe if I win the lottery I might just be tempted.

Note – Yes I know this is hardly the affordable watch I tend to feature, but Hey I can dream . . .

Oh my – its Omate

Seems that “Smart” watches are definitely having a real push and so far this year quite a few have appeared already, some as adjuncts to Smart Phones or even as standalone phones in their own right.

The Omate "Racer - a new Smartwatch from April 2015 — The Omate “Racer – a new Smartwatch from April 2015

However this new Smart watch is the Omate Racer model. It’s quite a large Casio-like model at 48 mm diameter and 14.5 mm case depth, though I am very pleased to see a standard strap fixing and they actually make a feature out of this fact. Now that’s what I call “smart”, as it the Sapphire coated “touch” screen which I’ve always though a smart feature. (I love my Tissot Touch).

Omate Racer SmartWatch - Sapphire touch screen — Omate Racer SmartWatch – Sapphire touch screen

This particular watch is a Smart Phone wrist extension, but unlike Apple and some of the much more expensive efforts appearing, this model can connect equally with Android or iOS7. with push notifications of incoming calls, social media updates, reminders and so on. It also shows the time in rather smart and various formats and screen outlays.

Omate Racer - looks almost conventional, but isn't! — Omate Racer – looks almost conventional, but isn’t!

Specifications are – (it’s easier to let Omate’s own table explain) –

Omate' specifications — Omate’ specifications

So despite my skepticism on all things SmartWatch, things are certainly movin’ on, as they say, and this latest model due in April 2015 looks like a pretty decent effort and it’s PRICE is a fraction of the Apple Smart watch and I understand it has a battery life of perhaps 7 days, depending on functions.
At the moment though I’m leaning very much towards the Swatch Group’s, “Smart” approach of incorporating or merging chip sets into standard watches such as Omega for example and apparently also due out in the very near future.

But that said, technology has a way of smashing down barriers and who knows where it will all lead and it’s certainly exciting. BUT the one issue that still in my opinion stumps the so called “smart” watch is Battery life. Having to charge the thing every day or at best every few days is just not good enough. Trying to attract a watch wearing world population already comfortable with wristwatches that run unaided for perhaps a life time (mechanical, Solar quartz & others), or 10 year batteries (quartz), is a hurdle that’s as large as it is difficult to beat.

Everything today is about less effort, less buttons, less switches, more speed, on your wrist and not your pocket as it’s closer so again less effort, your PC in your glasses, as it’s too much effort to go to your den and switch on your PC etc etc.

BUT – I’m afraid it’s all for nothing if you still have to charge the Smart item every day, find the charger, find a power supply – I’m sorry but all that effort is just not on!

Anyway here’s the Omate web site – you can read all about it – HERE.

Bruno – German Schönheit

As promised my love affair with German made watches continues into 2015 with two excellent watch models – and both with Schönheit – elegance!

The first is another of my favorite Brunos which is now at long last in my collection.

Bruno Sohnle Sonate for Gents - with replacement Roasroi strap — Bruno Sohnle Sonate for Gents – with my Rosario strap

It’s the elegant Bruno Söhnle Sonate 17-23109-241 which features a Stainless bi-color gold/silver ion-plated case and I confess it was the case that first attracted my interest. It has quite unique fluted sides which is both remarkably elegant and a feature that’s actually quite rare to find, especially in this price range and I personally find it very attractive.

The dial is silver coloured and finely textured, the inner portion as tint square indents and the outer minute chapter background in very fine circular lines. It also features a Date Window @6 which is of the “triple view” style, where the day before and after are represented. This is always useful when one or both main hands cover the Date window, and being longer than normal as you see, means that one of the dates is always visible and you should know the current date. I note from articles here and there that it’s not just me that has a likeness for this model, as it seems to be one of the most sold out models and often on back order from the Manufactory (such a lovely word the Germans use). Not being available here in the UK, I purchased this via a Berlin dealer.

This model is powered by the excellent Swiss Quartz Ronda 1006 (8 jewels) which as usual with Bruno Söhnle is refined and customised in house. The watch face whilst furnished with gold hands is fortunately very easy to read and viewed clearly via a Sapphire Crystal, which has an Anti-reflective coating. The case sides are in gold with wonderful fluting around the circumference, which is continued on the highly polished stainless bezel. The bi-colour combination used to great effect to lift this model well above the usual style and gives added elegance.

This model is Water Resistant to 3 ATM, the case lugs are very slim and straight in keeping with a number of their models, 20 mm wide and the strap as always from Bruno, an excellent quality calf leather with crocodile pattern and signed pin buckle. However despite the obvious quality of the strap I found this particular one just a little too stiff for my liking, so in some images you will see I have fitted a favourite Rosario Leather strap in red, which is much softer and my colour preference for this watch – it’s certainly more comfortable for me. I think my days of firm hard composition leather or stiff cored straps is long gone, but that’s just old age I’m afraid.

Wonderful fluted case sides, set this model off perfectly.

The case dimensions are perfect in my opinion for a dress watch at 38.7 mm diameter and very slim at only 5.8 mm depth, and gives a sleek, quality look on any wrist size and shirt cuffs are no problem whatsoever.

Bruno - on the wrist - great fit. — Bruno – on the wrist – great fit.

I’ve tried to take some images that show off the fluting as I think it such an important part of the overall look of this watch.

Certainly one of my favourite models from their Quartz range, though I’m looking forward to checking out their mechanical models this year and will Post my comments and thoughts on these once completed.

Note – like many of the Brunos, the snap stainless steel back is really close fitting, so ‘care’ is the watchword when changing the Renata 315 battery, otherwise it’s too easy to scratch the back. And better to use a watch press to replace the back.

——————————————————————————

Another Quartz Bruno I’ve noted is the excellent Pesaro 111 model 17-13073-121 which again has a modified Swiss Quartz Ronda 7004 movement, with Day and Date. Yet another model I find I like. There are a few versions of this, starting with the Pesaro 1, then 11 and now 111, each emphasizing different aspects of the dial. However for me the latest Pesaro 111 is the one I prefer, basically owing to the elegantly contoured black hour and minute hands (reminiscent of the older Calatravas) that give excellent contrast against the beige dial and it’s particular configuration. The Pesaro 11 for example has infill hands which although still elegant and I understand luminous, for a dress watch I find the high contrast black steel is my choice.
The Big Date aperture @1 is highly visible as is the curved Day of the week scale at 8 to 12 with it’s precise black pointer. A good sized seconds sub dial @6 completes the dial works and the overall look for me is both attractive and clear. In fact a feature of most Bruno Söhnle models is their knack of producing excellent dial clarity even with multiple complications – perhaps others should take note.

This model also features a screw down crown, 100m Water resistance and screwed lugs instead of the usual spring-bars which is very much upmarket, including the excellent Sapphire clear view Crystal. There is also an exhibition back and the entire watch is fashioned from high quality stainless steel. The strap is slightly wider at 22mm in high quality calf leather, which scales nicely with the larger case size of 43 mm diameter by 14 mm depth with pin buckle. As I may have said and it’s worth repeating, I always find BS straps to be some of the most comfortable to wear.
There are other versions of the Pesaro 111, including an alternative deployment bracelet version.

Bruno Sohnle Pesaro 111 — Bruno Söhnle Pesaro 111 – solid Stainless case and super clarity dial

I now have a small collection of Bruno Söhnle watches and I wear them frequently, though they are all Quartz, so this year I’m looking to acquire one of their latest mechanical models, some of which look very interesting as they are very highly regarded. On first looks they promise much when considered against their excellent Quartz range and I look forward to checking these in some depth in the near future.

The above image shows a model from their range of mechanical automatics, the Lagomat Day-Date model in three versions and once again shows off the design elements that Bruno Söhnle are so good at – elegance and readability without clutter. Note the Day is indicated in full @12 in addition to the Date and very reminiscent of the Rolex Day-Date, was first produced in 1956 and good ideas are well worth repeating.

Bruno Söhnle Uhrenatelier Glashütte/Sa as a Company was founded in 2000, though first started off back in 1957 as a distributor of Swiss watches. Their first watch models in-house were sold in Hungary from 2005, and in 2006 they purchased the former Assmannhaus in Dresdner Straße in Glashütte in Saxony, from where all Bruno Söhnle Quartz and mechanical watches are now produced. In 2008 they produced their first mechanical model to considerable praise within the Watch Industry and since then have been and are, going from strength to strength, their latest models are a delight to peruse in their latest 2014/15 brochure. The Bruno Söhnle reputation is well founded and they’re receiving awards each year for product excellence.

Certainly the Bruno Söhnle models I have in my collection are in my “keepers” case, as I can’t see me parting with any one of them anytime soon and and I love wearing them – which is surely an accolade in itself!

Old Divers never die . . .

There’s something about old digital watches I just love. Part of it is the fact that so many of these models were in that transitional phase, where manufacturers were experimenting with what was really fast moving new technology. Digital modules that seemed and promised to do almost anything often produced sometimes great and sometimes odd looking models as a result.

The major Brands, Casio, Seiko and Citizen invested heavily in this new technology and of course led the way, but there were those guys on their coat-tails, using those same modules, but with their own ideas of how to utilize them. And so it was an amazing time, a free-for-all and resulting in some almost one off models that retro nuts treasure today.

1980's Old digital Diver - 300 meters, been around and still here — 1980’s Old digital Diver – 300 meters, been around and still here

Take this well used 300m Diver, Alarm and Chronograph model with the old style dial guard. It has features and functions similar to both Casio and Seiko modules at the time, but clothed in different garb and sporting a 10 year Lithium battery no less and we’re talking here of perhaps the mid 1980’s?

Obviously targeted at Snorkeling enthusiasts and/or divers according to the symbol above the display, this particular non-mainstream model looks such a one off today. It’s a bit like the very old days when pocket watches transitioned to wrist and civilian models aspired to military (with dial guards too). This model had an odd rubber strap which didn’t fit too well, being too small at the lug ends, soI swapped it out for a deployment silicon one after a bit of cutting. And it looks OK.

I have to be impressed with the 300 meter claim and if correct, is a testament to the case and back construction, though once I get the back off, I should know considerably more. But I’ll delay doing that as sometimes with these old digitals, start meddling and sometimes trouble comes along, so perhaps I’ll wait until the battery needs replacing. The display however is remarkably bright and with good contrast, so it might be a while before the battery does give up the ghost. Incidentally the case screw back is in Stainless Steel, marked 300 Metre and has a snorkeling man symbol, plus the Brand name Amertime.

300 meter Diver, well used and still good to go.

I love the look of this one, as the steel case to dial ratio is well balanced and proportioned and that in your face guard doesn’t obstruct the view of the dial as it’s center window is actually framing the digital display perfectly.

Part of the fun with these obscure models is the investigation of their origins. This module for example is has an odd display set with three levels of data. First a data line the top level, a Date & Day line next, then the main Time line below. However the Day text is small but unusually it’s also positional. In other words as the Days of the week progress, the Day changes and basically moves along the display, the Days obviously hidden on that text line and highlighted as required. I have to confess I’ve not seen this before. More commonly in Week progression the Days are permanently marked on the case or glass and a short digital dash marker would highlight under the appropriate Day.

Functions and display appear in some ways similar to the Seiko 4 button A914-5010 Module, which was around in the mid 1980’s, which would fit with the date estimate for this model. I wouldn’t be surprised if it was a Seiko module derivative, as more often than not it’s Seiko modules that seem to survive, as opposed to other brands.

However I’m unable to find out much about Amertime. The name suggests Amertime (watches and jewelery) which seems to be a resurrected Company name (2000), though as it was reborn perhaps 15 to 20 years after this model appeared, probably of little relevance.

Anyone who has any information regarding the Brand is welcome to drop me an email or comment, should you wish to share. I’d appreciate it . . . .

International Watch “Detective”

Interesting 1941/2 IWC with it’s elegant Calibre 83, 6 bridge-design movement, 14k gold cased Gents watch. After some investigation it is in a 14kt Gold case, possibly supplied to or produced in Hungary during the war as it shows the Hungarian Assay mark for 14kt Gold (580/1000) – this is a stamped left facing Wolf’s head + the number 4. This stamp is repeated on the right hand top lug exterior.

The watch is in excellent condition both due to it’s age and considering the time it may have been produced as WW11 raged across Europe. My detective work will not be fully complete until I can determine the Case Maker/Sponsor mark but it’s certainly intriguing.
The IWC Cal 83 was produced between 1939 and the early 1940’s and regarded as a transitional movement between the pocket watch and the wrist watch. I also note that this case style has straight sides and straight thin lugs and appears to have precedent as it’s reminiscent of No 58 and some others in IWC’s 1941/2 Blue Catalog. Within this catalogue it is obvious when comparing the available model there were a few “mix & match” combinations of dial layouts and case designs over this period. This watch case could also be an IWC design imported into Hungary for separate metal assessment and subsequent matching to the movement. However this is conjecture and more detective work may be needed.

Note the Hallmarked 14k gold symbol on the top lug and the large “onion” crown. Gold hands and seconds sub-dial on what may be a very well preserved original dial – as there are a few small spots on the dial background but only noticeable under magnification. The case diameter is almost 33 mm without the Crown, so larger than many at the time and I’m very pleased that it wears “larger” and looks good on my average wrist.

The strap is a high quality water resistant Hirsch leather 18mm to fixed wire fittings between lugs which were common at the time. No spring bars here and replacements straps must be open ended types to fit. Note the nicely decorated case back interior which has case number, case makers mark, service marks and the 14k gold mark of Hungary. The movement looks in great condition and shows virtually no signs of wear which is always a bonus. Regarding the strap I personally feel the color doesn’t show the watch to best advantage so I’m considering changing this for a black lizard – see last image.

Note – In keeping with the servicing tradition of watchmakers throughout the world, there are marks on the inside of the case which would appear to indicate it was serviced in December 1962 and again in November 1976. (there may be an earlier one but it’s too indistinct to read). Considering manufacturers of mechanical watches tend to recommend servicing every 3 years I suppose it’s not too bad!

1941/2 International Watch Company Cal.83 to 14kt Case — 1941/2 International Watch Company Cal.83 in 14kt Case and lizard strap.

Originals (1)

This Post is the first of a series where I introduce Brands that are somewhat off mainstream, which might and often do show real flair and usually an individualism that can be sadly lacking in many of the better known brands. It might be that they’re relatively new or just one that appeals to a select few and fly just under the radar. Whatever the reason they are often on the short list by those looking for that elusive style or look that the mainstream can’t seem to provide.

One such maker is MARCH LA.B who produce the AM2. They are a France-made luxury timepiece brand with headquarters in Los Angeles, California and Biarritz, France and brainchild of ALAIN MARHIC since 2008 and the AM2 model I feature here is a model I that typifies the individual look.

March AM2 in burgandy Automatic. The individuals watch. — March AM2 in burgundy Automatic. The individuals watch.

And it is different, it’s what I personally call “heavy” retro and this model actually inspired apparently by those seventies Ford Mustangs with their plush seating interiors, aggressive, charismatic and above all – individual.

Certainly a different kind of presentation with the heavy polished 316L Stainless Steel case with that large heavily textured and logo’d crown bulging out from the case @4. It certainly can’t be missed, that’s for sure. First looks shows off the plush deep maroon/burgundy finish dial and domed anti-reflective Sapphire crystal.
The case is 38 mm square and the watch is powered by a Swiss ETA 2892-A automatic movement with self -winding ball bearing rotor system, Date corrector, Stop seconds device and ETACHRON regulator system. It’s a pretty well specified model of that there is no doubt and at 28,800 vibrations/hr and 21 jewels should provide decent decent accuracy.

Customized ETA2892-A Swiss Automatic seen through amazing green crystal viewing post. — Customized ETA2892-A Swiss Automatic seen through that amazing green Sapphire crystal viewing post.

The Hour and Minute hands are treated with luminous material, a sweep seconds hand, silver markers plus a customized Date set @3 against the deep maroon/burgundy color dial background are quite striking.
The watch back is secured by 4 screws and the viewing window in amazing green is a Sapphire crystal, showing the customized movement inside. Note the Crown is screw down and this model has a Water Resistance of 10 ATM /100 M.

The watch has a really plush sculpted (those Mustang seats!) perforated black “buffle” band with maroon/burgundy highlights and Alcantara lining and is pretty special in it’s own right.

So a true individualist model, the AM2 and I do like it, as it’s not only something different, but it’s both a quality piece and has an in your face retro style I find refreshing. And bear in mind I’m not American, so inspirational items from the USA don’t usually influence me one way or another, but with the AM2 it’s got something I can identify with, and that’s the Mustang – I mean it’s a Classic and I’ve seen the pictures and indeed the movie . . . etc. and I can see the connection very clearly.

Price wise this is not unrealistic at around £750 perhaps and I’m pretty sure your next door neighbor or the guys at the Golf Club will not have one of these! You might have to see about a change of vehicle of course and then price might become an issue!

And of course you guessed it – it’s now on my list! and I’m trying so hard to cut back . . . 😉 and failing miserably!

Eterna-Matic – Antique Fair find

Occasionally I visit Antique Fairs, mostly as an accompaniment to my Wife who’s into Art Deco, so I take the opportunity to seek out any Watch sellers that happen to be there. Today we did just that and I sort of went my way and she hers – but anyway the upshot is that in amongst the rubbishy “house clearance” stuff and quite a few watches that obviously lived their lives in boxes full of old nails (mostly rubbish!) I did come across a guy who actually had some decent stuff.

And his prices were the sort of prices I understand – he’s a watch guy – say no more! and we got on.

Quite a few decent models there from Jaeger LeCoultre to Omega to Rolex and so on, but the one that caught my eye was this lovely super condition Eterna-Matic 2002 from 1973. It simply stood out as the great model it is and as good today as when it was produced. The case is that lovely almost cushion but moreTonneau ’70s style and is in really good condition with no corrosion or plating loss.

The excellent mechanical movement is the Calibre 12824 (ETA 2824) automatic date, which beats along at a very smooth 28,800 a/h frequency. The movement number scribed on the movement as was the Eterna-Matic name, Brevet Swiss (Swiss patented) and the screw back in Stainless Steel. The movement condition is about as good as it gets, the rotor sweet and smooth and the watch dial is something to be very pleased about. The watch back is screwed stainless steel with a perfect condition rubber gasket seal with case number engraved.

Perfect original dial - not bad after 43 years! — Perfect original dial – not bad after 43 years!

No corrosion evident – the gold hands and baton markers crisp and clear, the dial’s vertical brushed Gold texture background and wonderfully light contrasting outer index a total delight and all original. Note the Crown – is fully marked configured with the 5 protruding balls logo and matches the dial logo. The strap is a 19 mm wide non-original (the old one was done) Condor in a soft flexible Buffalo Calf which matches up very nicely.
Watch dimensions – just about ideal for me or indeed anybody today despite the penchant for large watches, this just fits perfectly.
Approximately 38 mm wide (39 mm including the semi-recessed Crown) by 37 mm lug to lug and the wrist shot is self evident – pretty much perfect. The Crown is part shrouded by the neat under-chamfered shape of the case and a slight indent on the top/side of the case.

As good as it gets on the wrist! Makes some modern watches look bland!

The watch functions smoothly, the date change crisp and the date wheel is in perfect condition and it is one very accurate movement, as was intended.

The Eterna-Matic Automatic Cal 12824 - 28,000 beats — The Eterna-Matic Automatic Cal 12824 – 28,000 beats

Interesting model this as it started off life in 1972 (Eterna have been around sine 1856) and it was with this Eterna-Matic named model that the Company sort of re-introduced itself to the world.
It was a bit of a revelation in the Watch Industry as it was the first watch to wind itself automatically by means of ball bearings – self polishing too, which reduced friction losses considerably and as a result produced a remarkably accurate movement. They even offered a Ladies model with the same set up – and that was something really new.

And so here it is today after 43 years and looking great! – now that has to be quality. And as to value? Well let’s just say that I was VERY pleased . . . .
I should add that this is not the first Eterna-Matic in my collection – the way it’s going I’ll soon have a full box (12) unless I reign myself in . . . 😉

Note – Eterna today is often forgotten about by the mainstream, which is an oversight in my opinion as their range of models are both technically interesting and varied. Models such as the Adventic which features the Eterna in-house Calibre 3843 with their Eterna Spherodrive mechanism (ball bearing mounted barrel) or the hand wound Madison big date (one of my favorites), which features an 8 day Calibre 3510 with a serially coupled pair of spring barrels working in tandem to deliver 192 hours of power thanks to the Spherodrive system. This is a hand wound model that only requires to be wound 3 times a month!
So plenty of innovation from Eterna and certainly should be looked at more closely if looking for a more individual watch today. I hope to run a Post soon on the range of models currently available – and that range can be seen HERE.

Note – This post also appears in my Vintage Gents page.