Ex Military, Armaments, Electronics, Commercial Tech Sales, Technical Consultant to occasional writer and columnist, artist, photographer and watch collector. Had a few web sites over the years, but watchspace.co.uk takes up most of my online activities now. Here I can share my watch collecting comments and experiences with anyone who cares to view. Other interests are wildlife, military security applications and computer graphics. Plus golf when I have the time.
At last a watch (two actually) that’s worth waiting for – and that’s unusual in my experience, as today it seems there’s too many “same” models around. And as I’ve always had a soft spot for Junghans watches from Germany, I don’t mind waiting a few months for the new Meister Driver Handaufzug (manual wind) which is also one of the most elegant models I’ve seen in a long time.
Junghans Meister Driver hand winding – from Germany.
This is a stainless steel cased model with dimensions of just 37.7 mm diameter (such a sensible size) and a height of just 7.3 mm, so a very sleek and elegant model indeed.
The crystal is made from slightly domed plexiglass with a SICRALAN coating, a screwed back with a mineral crystal exhibition window to the rear. The dial is a rather beautiful polished lacquer with a sunburst effect finish and the dial markings and hands are in environmentally friendly Super Luminova material, to give excellent night vision.
The movement is the J815.1 hand-winding version, based on the Calibre ETA 7001 from Peseux, which should have a Power Reserve of around 44 hours.
Junghans J815.1 – Peseux Calibre 7701
A sub-dial @6 shows running Seconds and to complete the tonal match of dial, the strap is calfskin with stainless steel buckle and the overall watch has a water Resistance of 3 bar.
In all a most elegant watch and I love the fact that the dial contrast is really good and night reading has not been forgotten (so often dress models omit this feature).
——————————————————————–
The second “worth waiting for” model I feature is also a Meister Driver – the Chronoscope. This features the Automatic Calibre J880.3 with chronograph complication and is also cased in stainless steel, though with slightly larger dimensions at 40.8 mm Diameter and 12.6 mm height. Chronograph functions are operated by two pushers either side of the main crown. However by today’s standards a neat and elegant watch size.
This model features a sand coloured two tone lacquer dial, 2 x centre-line horizontal chrono’ sub-dials and a centre seconds sweep hand. Once again numerals and hands feature Super-luminova coatings for optimum clarity at night and dial contrast is excellent. A brown leather strap and buckle and 30 m Water Resistance complete the ensemble.
Here in the UK both models are still on pre-order basis with availability sometime in September 2016 and are for me a breath of fresh air in this market at the moment, which seem to comprise so many models that are perhaps short on looks. The Junghans Meister series certainly buck the trend and the latest ones featured here, very much so and as I say worth waiting for.
Price-wise the hand-winding model is to be around £1000 mark and the Automatic a little more expensive at around £1700. For such classic and elegant models this seems not too big a price I have to say and I’m sure will generate a lot of interest.
Which one? For me I think the Meister Driver Handaufzug I think is my preference, simply because it is so elegantly simple. I’m not really a chronograph person and the smaller diameter and height gives it a sleekness on the wrist that I’m sure will suit me and my style.
The other day I was visiting a friend and happened to be wearing my Seiko Monster, as I often do as I like it, so I wear it. He noticed it and said that it rather paled into insignificance against his latest purchase. I was intrigued and also somewhat blown away too, as he slipped back his sleeve and I got my first sight of his amazing Vostok-Europe Lunokhod 2. Wow!
6205205 Vostok-Europe Lunokhod II LE with Tritium
Well I had to agree with his claim as it out “monstered” my monster by a fair margin! Very large and very impressive, especially as he’d gone for the bright yellow version plus the yellow silicon strap. He bought it he tells me, just because he loved the look of it and I can understand that, as I’ve done it myself on many occasions.
Now whether he’ll keep it is another story, but I have to admit it is an impressive piece of kit. Comes with 2 straps, one leather and one silicon ( I have seen it advertised with 3) and a fancy snap closure carrying case, so lots of goodies, but what’s the watch really like and is it any good?
Striking model in yellow with leather strap alternative (supplied)
Initial observations for me are firstly is the size at 49 mm diameter and approx 17 mm thickness, because not everyone will be able to wear it and look good and also I note the Day indicator (a segmented sub-dial @12), is small and could cause problems reading it (but that’s maybe just me). Perhaps of more concern is the Seconds indicator, a sub-dial segment @6, as it features a 60 secs fly-back hand, so I have to wonder about longevity.
However dial visibility seems pretty good despite the configuration, and the use of embedded Tritium Light Tubes on the main hands and Tube markers is commendable, and whilst I’m not totally convinced by the vertical positioning of the markers (upright “candle holders” I’ve heard them called), though it’s suggested there’s more light spread across the dial.
6205205 Tritium Light Source – view in darkness.
The rest of the specification is pretty decent – solid 316L Stainless Steel case, 3.5 mm thick Hardened K1 mineral crystal, the Swiss made bespoke Soprod TM36.03VE quartz-movement, that 31 day Chronograph, Dual time zone, Countdown Timer from 12 hrs and from 31 day, Retrograde Perpetual Calendar, Quick set Date, 300M Water Resistance, automatic Helium Release Valve and a 3 year Guarantee.
Very impressive though and my friend was right and he’s delighted, as he should be with his new purchase. Do I want one? Well I would normally say not for me as it’s really too big and I’ve never been a fan of fly-back anythings. And the price by the way is somewhere around 750 Euros I understand, so quite expensive and I would have to compare that against some of the Casio offerings, so . . . .
However it is a refreshing change to the Casios of this world and Vostok-Europe have a few other models that might interest me.
Take the Vostok-Europe model 6204212 Lunokhod II Grand Chronograph.
Vostok-Europe Lunokhod II Grand Chronograph
for example. Now this is a more conventional Quartz model but with all the standard Lunokhod features – such as the 30ATM Water Resistance, solid SS case (black PVD) plus an Anti-Reflective coated K1 crystal and a 1/20th Second Chronograph function. The pushers however on this model are more familiar to me as they are on the right side of the case, not the left. A decent size Date window @4 and a centre sweep Seconds hand (which I find more useful than fly-back).
Grand Chronograph with Tritium Light Source illumination.
This is also a very impressive affair and maybe more to my taste (well that’s what I thought when I started this Post, but now maybe not so sure!) – but there again it’s still big – but is it a purchase stopper? Well – for any one the quite extensive range I might be tempted . . . . . and this one priced at around 665 Euros is getting closer.
But whatever you might think price and feature wise, these are pretty good efforts from Vostok-Europe and will definitely be on any future check list. And if you’re often in wet situations (I think of 6 months in Scotland!) then the 300M Water Resistance must be an attractive feature if nothing else.
I really quite like them, but for now I’ll strap on my Seiko “not such a monster after all” – in fact it’s quite elegant when I think about it – it really is . . . .
Every so often I come across a watch that makes me sit up and notice. And this is especially true of late as this time my interest is piqued by a Ladies watch – a subject so often neglected on watch web sites. Indeed I featured a Ladies watch not long ago, which I confess I was quite tempted to wear myself – but this one is smaller, very much a ladies size and affordable.
Nevertheless it caught my interest for two reasons. First it is a rather elegant and colorful model and it features a mechanical movement, not quartz. It also comes from Japan Seiko and
whilst many tend to lump Seiko in with the rest of the quartz revolution Brands, this is rather unfair as they manufacture a wide range of excellent mechanical watches.
Seiko Lukia ladies Automatic – with Swarovski elements
This is the Seiko Lukia (Ladies) Automatic (with Swarovski elements) model – SSVM018.
A smart lugged Gold plated two tone case of 34.3 mm diameter and just 11 mm depth surrounds a dial set up that is both colorful and elegant. I particularly like the different colors for the fancy numerals used and the excellent contrast, which ensures good visibility. A Date window @3 is clear and highlighted cleverly by the gold colored surround and white background. The Swarovsky colored crystal highlights are additional and between the 5 minute markers.
Excellent Lumi Bright hands and markers
Note the dot markers are coated in Lumi Bright and the elegant shaped hands are in-filled with the same luminous material, which is highly effective at night. This in itself is unusual for what is after all a Ladies dress watch, but very welcome in my opinion. There is also a center seconds hand – another feature often missed on Ladies models.
The crystal is Sapphire, so no need to worry about scratches and there is also a mineral see though glass on the back to view the movement. The movement is the Seiko 4R35, 24 jewel Automatic with both hand winding and a hack function. Power Reserve is 41 hours.
Elegant, colorful and affordable – the Seiko Lukia SSVM018
The watch also has a decent 10 ATM or 100 m Water Resistance.
The matching two tone deployment bracelet has a maximum wrist capacity of 170 mm, so careful note of that fact is important (my Wife would manage that – just) and the watch retails for approximately $340, so as I said, it is affordable and for what you get I think it pretty decent value.
So another Ladies watch to feature here – this could be a regular occurrence if they keep producing models like this – and that’s refreshing in that Ladies are not being forgotten about after all.
This week features the LCW-170M-1AER Solar, Radio Control model from Casio. This is a very classy mid-range model from the Lineage series and one I’d call dress watch style. Quite elegant and neatly sized at 39 mm wide by just 9 mm depth, this is a watch that caters for all wrists, from large to small.
LCW-170M-1AER – classy Solar & Radio Control from Casio
This model features a Titanium case and bracelet so is light weight, the Titanium mostly has a brushed finish plus a polished bezel. It’s also a quietly understated model even though it features Solar Power and Radio Control.
Note the quality brushed finish of the Titanium case sides
The watch is easily set up out of the box and here in the UK, I set my Home Time Zone to LON (London) then moving towards my south facing window, I used pushbutton C to receive a signal. This was during the day at around 2pm and it managed to get the lock required and set the correct time, including our UK Summer Time adjustment in around 3 minutes. This was very easy to manage.
The watch time out of the box was set to UTC, so when I synchronized it was nice to see it receive the signal and move the hands automatically 1 hour forward to the correct UK time. Note you can easily check to see when it successfully received a signal, which is useful.
Note this model, which is still current, has World Times for 29 Time Zones so whilst for most of us should be fine, my new Citizen model has 40 Time Zones.
This model has 5 Alarms, Hourly Time Signal (selectable), World Time programmed to 2099, a Radio Time Signal check 6 times/day usually overnight (once signal success all other time checks are canceled), 60 minutes Stop Watch, Countdown Timer (1 minute to 100 minutes in 1 second intervals), LED night lighting, Battery Power indicator (full charge battery duration approx. 4 months). Power Save function after 60-70 minutes in the dark (second hand parks @12 – display is blank – after 6 or 7 days all hands park @12 and most other functions such as Auto Receive stop, except for internal clock).
The watch has a Sapphire Crystal but no anti-reflection coating. The rather finely detailed dial is off white in colour, the Hour and Minute hands are luminous, as is the infill rear overhang end of the centre seconds hand, but the dial markers are not. However the luminous hands stand out clearly and are good for all night and in addition if you really need it this model features dial illumination by LED, which is very bright indeed, lighting the entire dial – so everything (maybe even the bedtime book!) is easily seen in the dark.
Luminous hands – includes short end of Seconds hand (markers are not luminous).
The slightly sloping case sides have a quality brush finish from front to back under a narrow polished bezel. This model has just 3 round push buttons. As usual with Casio the lower left (B) pusher is the Mode, lower right (C) is what I call the “do something” pusher and the top right (A) pusher operates the light mainly, though does have additional functions. As per usual for me I set the default view in the digital display to show Day and Date – this can be toggled using the (C) pusher.
The watch dimensions are really neat at just 39 mm diameter and a very slim 9 mm deep. The bracelet like the case is Titanium, adjustable and full size is plenty big enough for large wrists. With 20 mm Standard spring-bar fixings it also means that changing the bracelet for any reason is easy, sensible and affordable. Bespoke Casio bands are not required.
Similar function set, but the 170 is very slim in comparison to the WVA-470 and all Titanium, not resin hybrid.
The case back has a 4 screw flat back affair and the Water Resistance is stated as 5 Bar.
So overall this is a rather good watch and whilst it has Solar and Radio Control features, it’s also conservative yet dressy and can be worn anywhere. The sensible size also means anyone can wear this and look good.
I show here the watch firstly in comparison to another similar function model from Casio and later against other current Solar and Radio Controlled watches and as you see it is very compact.
Neat case size & bracelet fitting – easily fits my 165/70 cm wrist.
Note– My wrist size is around 165/170 mm so I had to reduce the bracelet size (5 links removed) which can be done using that simple blue plastic pin pusher gadget from Ebay, that I’ve had for years . A word of advice – The secret to this type of bracelet is to remember that within each link there is a tiny split collar or collet, through which the link pin passes – don’t lose it! It is very important as this split collar grips the pin and the link securely in the bracelet. Remember for every pin there is a tiny split collar and as they’re only maybe 2 or 3 mm long – easy to lose!
To remove a link – (if you are right handed) lay the bracelet into the receiving area of the pin pusher then (make sure you line it up properly) turn the screw handle clockwise with your right hand to push the pin out of the link in the direction of the marked arrow, as far as the pusher will allow. Then keeping a firm (left hand) grip on the bracelet with finger and thumb over the area of the pin, use pliers (right hand) and pull the pin all the way out – note it will be stiff and that’s because you have to overcome that little split collar which is gripping the pin. Still holding the bracelet firmly and once the pin is removed, lay the pin safely down and lower the bracelet to the table and gently ease the link apart. The small collar will probably (or it might stay) drop to the table. It’s usually retained by the lower part of the link in your left hand and part of the pin hole which is enlarged to take it.
Don’t lose it!
For without the collars the link pins will simply fall through the bracelet, will not be retained and the bracelet links won’t link.
Basic tools for bracelet reduction – the old Ebay pin pusher (blue) has been a great performer for years.
To put the pin/link in again – replace the collar into its enlarged hole, bring the bracelet links together, locate the pin to the hole (with the arrow as before) and tap gently with a small hammer, making sure the two link parts are pressed together to ensure a straight continuous hole for the pin to go into.
I have resized literally hundreds of bracelets using this method and with this same cheapo tool and never had an issue. I have never lost a Casio split collar yet, though I admit the first time I did it, it was a close thing and I was lucky to spot it. Once you know – it’s easy, but as always take care . . . .
I would also warn you that many Watch Retailers/High Street repairers have NOT a clue how to manage this and know nothing of any collar – you have been warned!
I have an older Post which gives some idea of what to do, with images – HERE. There is also a Video on You Tube I have seen which might be helpful.
As I have said before – standard spring bar bracelet/strap fixings mean you can use alternatives. I have a 20 mm wide silicon deployment strap which I fit as an alternative depending on my mood. In fact I have a collection of 20 mm width deployments in various colours, which can totally change the look of the watch and I do find it useful at times to do just that.
So that’s the Casio LCW-170 – 1. It looks much better in real life than those insipid images on most retailer web sites and in comparison to similar function models, it does look a class act and well worth the relatively modest price.
Addendum – update.
Decided to try an alternative strap to the supplied bracelet. Used a 20 mm silicon strap, but without the locking deployment that comes with the silicon strap. Instead I replaced it with the original Casio deployment from the original bracelet, so I still have the signed Casio logo on the finished ensemble. As usual I personally find the silicon arrangement more comfortable than the supplied original bracelet. But so nice to see that it’s possible without much work. – images follow.
Silicon strap replacement using original Casio deployment buckleCasio logo original deployment on silicon strap replacement.Replacement silicon strap on the wrist – is neat and very comfortable.
A small collection of Solar and Radio Control models all featuring similar functions with the exception of the far left Citizen Satellite model. Whilst it receives a Radio signal too, it’s from a satellite orbiting the Earth and not a ground based transmitter. I just love a Radio group photo as they all show the exact same time!
And the time is – the same on every darned one – Exactly!
Forgotten the prices now, without looking them up when I got them, but I know the dearest is on the far left and the cheapest in on the far right. But they all have pretty much the same accuracy. The Citizen Satellite model however has the most accurate quartz movement, out of the box, without any synchronization, but give them light (yes they are all Solar Powered) and automatically pick up a signal every day – they all read the same time – precisely.
In fact you could set your watch by them! 🙂
Note the smallest watch in the group is the light dial Casio LCW-170 at just over 39 mm diameter. It is also the slimmest at around 9 mm depth.
Don’t ask which one I prefer because I like them all. They each do exactly what they’re supposed to do and do it very well. I have no issues with any of them and they are proudly what I call – my Estate models – that is they will be here long after I’ve gone and no doubt someone else will have the pleasure of owning and wearing them.
Sometimes in your “must have, must wear” watch collecting you come across models that for all sorts of reasons catch your eye, then you buy. Not on impulse you understand but more in the expectation that what you see will work as you wish and do everything you hoped they’d do.
My “Expectations” series reflects on some of the models I bought in the past that I still have and that performed exactly as I hoped and wanted and in most cases did considerably more than that – they excelled. Also the models shown here are relatively inexpensive and could be considered low to mid-priced at the time of purchase, depending on your income perceptions of course.
I haven’t listed prices as some may not be current, but you can of course just Google them and you’ll probably get a fair indication.
I Post them in no particular order (just as they came to hand out the display case), they are all “as new and perfect”, though some may have alternative bracelets or straps, but that’s just me – needless to say I still have the originals.
Expectations 1 – the first one out the case is this digital Casio Protrek PRG-270B-3 (ABC) – Textile strapped, 100 m Water Resistant model weighing at just 62 gms.
Solar power – World Time – Chronograph – Stopwatch – Timers (5) including 24hr – Altimeter – Barometer – Compass
So why this one? Well it does everything it’s supposed to do and does it well. It’s very easy to use and doesn’t require constant referral to any instructions. It is uses the standard Casio control set up (Mode lower left, Adjust upper left and so on) and once you know the sequence, it’s easy. It’s also one of the easiest to read with one of the best contrast digital displays I’ve found. The textile strap fits my 165/70 wrist perfectly as it swings 90º from the case and it’s pretty decent quality. The 3 sector default display is set as I like it as – (top down) Month and Date, Main Time and Seconds. You can of course set it as default to other views depending on your preferences.
Expectations (2) will featurea Casio twin sensor, though only the one sensor was of interest to me, but I liked the look of it – hope to Post it soon (Internet access permitting . . . .)
There’s no doubt that watches are becoming very sophisticated and with many functions that the old mechanical models can’t match. Though one of the issues some folks have is that these new-fangled quartz/solar models are somewhat removed from more traditional models. (think of ‘G’ Shocks and ABC models).
However that is actually not the case as the two models featured here illustrate.
Casio LCW-170TD-7AER Titanium Radio Control
First is the Casio LCW-M170TD-7AER which looks pretty classic to anyone’s eye. But it is one of these highly technical models that we take as the “norm” these days. This one though is Analog with an Hour and Minute hand, centre seconds hand plus a small digital window that can show different functions, but can be set simply as the Day and the Date, which let’s face it, is about the most any of us actually use.
The technical functions are Solar power, so no battery required – it also has Radio Control, so it always reads the correct time with Atomic Clock accuracy. It also sports World Time, so it can correct itself in 29 Time Zones throughout the world. It is a smart watch no doubt and despite the technology it’s easy to use.
This particular version is Titanium cased, which I prefer for a couple or three reasons. It is not shiny (apart from the top bezel, which annoys me slightly), it is a brushed finish and it is incredibly light at around 77 gms. Unlike stainless steel polished cases this one does not show scratches and I’ve found over the years with other Ti watches, the Titanium takes on a lovely overall smooth finish which is rather pleasing.
The electronic Module used in this model is the 5161 and it is used in a few Casio RC models. Not quite in the same league as my GPS Citizen CC3005-85E Solar, but it works very well and has a good reputation. Whilst Solar Powered and as everyone says – you don’t need a battery, it actually does have one. It’s a CTL920 rechargeable capacitor/battery, so don’t be tempted to fit a standard battery with similar dimensions!
That’s not to say that if it gave up the ghost for whatever reason (rare indeed) you can’t change them, because you can and they are available from a good few battery suppliers. Although Casio say you should contact them for replacement, this is perhaps precautionary and for those who have no wish to delve into the back of a watch or maybe have sausages for fingers, rather than any technical reason.
This model has a neat size of almost 40 mm diameter and just 9 mm depth so is slim on the wrist. The crystal is Sapphire so won’t scratch easily, though it doesn’t have anti-reflection coatings applied, which I would prefer to see as the almost white dial may not be as matte as would like. However on balance the hands have decent infill luminous properties and I have no great issues with reading the dial in most light situations.
This model has a relatively modest Water Resistance at 50 m, so wet days, helping your wife do the washing up and showers are OK as indeed is the odd swim – just don’t start snorkeling.
Overall I like this watch, its color scheme makes it dressy rather than sporty, so looks good for evening wear. It’s also in my “get it & forget it” category and very, very easy to live with. Full review – coming soon . . . .
———————————————————————
Casio LCW-M180D-7AER
The second model I’m featuring is the LCW-M180D-7AER from Casio, which sports the same Module 5161 so technically the same, but this one is in Stainless Steel and whilst is has the light color dial it is configured slightly differently. Numbers 12 and 6 are represented by Roman Numerals and all numerals, markers and hands are in Gold tone against an off white coloured dial background.
Whilst this might look quite rich or upmarket I always find with gold color hands, clarity is often an issue and in poor light I personally find them hard to make out. The luminous infill of the hands is similar though perhaps a little narrow, but I would judge night vision should be acceptable.
The case however has a slightly different profile, Stainless Steel with a quite shiny finish, so may be too easy to show scratches. The bracelet is also in stainless steel and in a more pleasing link pattern than the LCW170. Note the Water Resistance is unchanged at 50 m.
Being Stainless Steel this model is some 40 gms heavier at 118 gms, though if it’s an issue you could lighten it considerably by easily changing to silicon or a leather strap as both models have a 20mm standard spring-bar fitting.
As I said the operating Module is the same as are the functions, so it’s a personal choice on looks more than anything else. Both models are available in alternative versions such as black dial and positive or negative digital displays.
For me personally, although I do like the look of the 180 and the fact is I’m looking for a light coloured dial anyway, I still have the feeling that I’d live more comfortably with the 170 Titanium version. Firstly owing to the finish and the light weight and secondly the dial has simple markers and a better hand contrast v the slightly lighter background. As readers of this site well know by now, clarity is a personal issue of mine and that Gold color just doesn’t quite do it for me.
So there you have it. Two models, same Module, same amazing functions, yet cosmetically different enough to attract different buyers with different preferences. Both very Classic in their overall appearance and both functionally very good.
These can be bought for between £180 and £230 here in UK and Europe, the case material being the major difference (Titanium being more expensive) and for that money the functions are pretty spectacular, yet refined. (I also like the fact that both models are not resin/metal hybrids this time, though that said Casio hybrids are great value for money).
But these two are certainly not any old Day Date models and already are best sellers and I expect them to be so for quite some time yet.
Favorites – one of those words that can mean so many things to so many people, is also a term that has the sometimes fascinating and equally annoying habit of changing. And that my friends can also be an expensive change, especially it is has been a “bought” favorite, such as in a watch collection.
I have two favorites at the moment and both are at the upper end of watchmaking. The first one, and you may find this odd, is a Ladies model and whilst I’m not much into decorated watches myself – if I were, then this might well tempt me greatly. Correction – it tempts me anyway!
The Ladies Chronograph Large Date
This is the Ladies Chronograph Large Date (3626-2954-58A) with a white mother-of-jewel dial to showcase an unusual articulated twin chronograph display sub-dials in the lower segment dial. The sub pointers are in red Gold. The upper segment has a full dial @12 in Roman Numerals. Segments are delineated by the wave of brilliant-cut-set diamonds with 17 graduated diamonds in each side. All set against the white colored Mother-of-Pearl dial within which also sits the twin half moon double Date Window @6 plus a center seconds hand.
Chronograph functions are operated by the two right hand pushers. The surrounding bezel is fully complimented by a series of 40 matched gems and the complete ensemble is created within a decent size 18ct Red Gold 38.6 mm wide case with a white Ostrich leather strap.
The case features an exhibition back via which you can view Blancpain’s in-house mechanical self-winding movement – Calibre 26F8G, which is made up of 495 parts including the rather splendid petal-created oscillating weight. It also has a Power Reserve of 40 hours and is Water-Resistant to 30 meters.
I often see blinged up diamond encrusted Rolex models on many a wrist at all the best functions, but this is something rather special and I for one would be very pleased to wear it myself, Ladies or not! I simply don’t care – I like it!
My next favorite is from another slightly lesser “name” brand, though is probably more popular by way of price point. This is the Cartier Ronde Croisier model. This is a Gents watch this time and is what is referred to as elegant casual, which pretty much sums it up and it is certainly more affordable perhaps than the Blancpain.
Cartier Ronde Croisier
No bling or decoration on this one and for Cartier it’s also a nice departure from their standard Ronde style and results in a more modern refreshing look and yet managed with style.
Unusually for a Time and Date only watch it sports skeleton hands, a feature usually only associated with multi-dial models to prevent the sub-dials being obstructed. Even the center seconds hand has a skeleton circle tip as opposed to a spot. Not being filled in of course means no luminosity here. The outer bezel has a Diver look but is fixed. Basically this adds presence and balance so that overall the watch is very clear to read and looks “right”.
I like the fact this model is really slim at just 9.7 mm and yet is 42mm wide with short lugs, which means small wrists are easily catered for and the watch sits flat on the wrist. The steel bezel is ADLC coated with inlaid 15/30/45 & 60 numerals and is matte black smooth material. The movement is the Cartier Calibre 1874 MC Automatic beating at 4Hz, which has a Power Reserve of around 42 hrs. It also has a decent 100 metres Water Resistance and a black calfskin leather canvas look strap.
The cabuchon insert crown is classic and overall the watch oozes class and certainly has that classic Cartier elegance set within a modern look (so that’s two Cartier models I really like – the other being the Cartier Solo in quartz).
So two favorites – a Blancpain for the Ladies that I reckon I’d love to wear if I had £20,000 to spare and a Cartier that I’d definitely wear at around £3300 can’t be bad.
Says it all really . . . . . but I have GOT to start saving – I really have . . .
Expectations? – odd title but prompted by a friend who asked my view on a Patek Philippe model which was on sale for around £5000+ and quartz powered! Now I don’t know about you but when I think of the Patek Philippe brand I’m thinking absolute quality.
I’m thinking beautifully sculpted and finished mechanical movements and clever fashionable designs – and like the advert – so refined and just so good that it passes down the generations, time after time. The buyer pays for the privilege of wearing such a powerful statement, often hidden by an understated refinement it simply speaks class. You’re someone who’s “made it” so to speak and with an implied old money elegance and sophistication in comparison to the ubiquitous and often ostentatious Rolex.
Expecting this? (Nautilus calibre)
Now you know perfectly well that a quartz model won’t quite be the same as their classics, but that said, perhaps you’re also not quite expecting the plastic/metal module, a few gears, a couple of coils and a battery – right? And being a Patek Philppe you’d expect that battery to last a lifetime and probably your son’s too, seeing you passed it down to him when you finally quit the rat race.
But it doesn’t and the image here with the back removed shows a typical PP quartz sporting what’s probably a good old Renata SR371SW costing under £2.00.
But got this! (Quartz calibre) with battery removed.
So it’s hardly surprising that when I see a not so old vintage “quartz” Patek for over £5000+ – I really struggle to see the value, especially when I open up the back and see a few soldered joints and that common old battery sitting there. Nice bit of fret work on the battery holder I agree, but for me it doesn’t feel like a whole lot of money.
It’s like retrofitting a Mini engine into a Rolls – it just doesn’t seem right.
That’s not to say it isn’t good, because Patek Philippe is good but is it really value?
And of course that’s another matter completely – value – because the very top brands simply rise above the common concept of “value” as such and enter a different world with both a monetary and status value entirely of their own making.
One of the plus points regarding quartz watches is that you can pop off the back yourself and swap out the battery – it doesn’t take a great deal of skill and it’s usually done in minutes. But how many owners of Pateks ever take the back off their prized model and to gaze on that wonderful calibre, or in this case that rather common looking quartz movement. And unless they have an exhibition back in most cases the internals will never ever be seen.
And regarding the quartz version – well you could look at it in another way – it’s just a change of power source. Everything is the same, it’s a power source thing and instead of that mainspring, hairspring, regulators and associated gears and stuff you’ve got a battery. Not an 18ct gold one but a £1.50 one and the whole shooting match is really accurate.
OK? Well no it doesn’t work for me either.
However the top brands, if quartz, are sometimes not like the plastic digital modules and basic mechanics of lesser brands and some feature pretty smart metal work inside and that’s maybe as it should be considering the brand, but it’s still a quartz job whatever you say.
Always amazed that such a simple change – battery instead of spring can make such a vast difference. Perception is everything.
But for me though as I like quartz watches (let’s face it, they keep better time than mechanical ones) it has to be a question of price, of value, which maybe shows my class or maybe lack of it, because to me price matters. Perhaps I’m not cut out to be a true Patek Philippe owner. After all as a collector I don’t even have a Rolex!
Though in saying that, if a classic mechanical automatic Patek Philippe came along, at a quiet little auction somewhere and at a good price I would probably be very tempted.
But there again I do have Breguet and Vacheron and a few others in the same league, so maybe it’s just a question of preference and I hasten to add none of them are quartz.
However there are other quality brands offering Quartz versions, allegedly to suit the Ladies market – one of the reasons apparently is that ladies don’t want the tiresome business of winding their watch every so often and automatics are just so expensive.
PP seemingly offer them partly as a recognition of the historical significance of quartz too and of course for the “ladies” and an odd few for gents. Though get one of those and it usually is not that easy to sell on, let alone leave it to your offspring!
It could be “that” heirloom that gets passed around! Friends are likely to say – “Oh I know he’s got a Patek, but it’s quartz would you believe!” Almost into the realm of fakes dare I say!
Cartier Solo quartz at around £1200
But as I said, there are others, such as Cartier, who produce quartz versions very successfully and with somewhat more conviction. The Gents Cartier Solo model is one. And yes this is one of a few “brand” quartz models I do own and personally I love it. Firstly as it is so well priced (around £1200 new) and secondly as it has a flat tank profile as opposed to the rounder tank case – and definitely I prefer the former. It’s neater and it sits better on the wrist.
And I can live with the fact that the battery only costs around £1.50 and I can change it myself in minutes when required. It’s probably got a jewel or two added in but basically it’s a quartz module like any other. It is what it is . . . .
Cartier Quartz
But what it isn’t is £5000+!
And maybe that’s the point for me. The fact that if the wonderfully intricate mechanics of the mechanical movement have been replaced with a modern day quartz mass produced drop-in battery timer, then I’d want a really big price reduction to compensate for that loss.
And in that regard Cartier have got it just about right. And at the end of the day it has to be about price.
Isn’t everything!
However if I was paying that “I’ve made it status” asking price for that top brand, I’d want to see it at it’s best. The best workmanship, the best mechanics, the best style.
And for the privilege of owning such a timepiece I’m perfectly happy (if a manual model) to wind it up every day or two, just to remind me its there.
And I suppose that’s one of the reasons I got into watch collecting in the first place. The fact that once you take the back off a watch you are suddenly into another world. The reflections off the finished plates and the beating heart of the miniature mechanics, ticking away virtually silently – alive – as time measures it’s way onwards . . . . Wow!
Yes, just looking at what’s supposed to be available this year in the Smart watches category and as before I’m still very disappointed. I decided not to get lots of images of the latest offerings as they all look much the same to me and certainly don’t inspire me to want to even contemplate buying one.
But it’s the same old battery life issue that stops this so called “smart” revolution dead in it’s tracks. Some of them are boasting “superb” battery life at just 3 days, maybe even a week with mono display models. LG for example use one of the largest batteries yet at 410mAh and it struggles at 2½ days if you want to use the screen for anything. The Pebble Time boasts a week – maybe and when I saw one the other day, I thought at first it was an old LED model as he wore it blank faced all day and probably hoped nobody would ask him the time.
I mean – really?
I feel a John McEnroe coming on – “You can’t be serious!”
Asus ZenWatch – BUT let down with very poor battery life – shame as it looks OK.LG smart watches
Unfortunately I am and this is the real issue and not one that will be solved readily. Even using the very latest new fangled processor technology you’re only talking of hours improvement at best.
OK I have included 2 images of smart watches after all, basically as they don’t look too bad, but I include them here for that fact alone and absolutely nothing to do with whether they are any good or actually of any use. I also note that many of these watches are already suffering from AMOLED screen burn where the bright displays are causing screen problems – like my old PC used to have a screen saver to try and prevent. The Asus Zen is particularly prone to this and as a consequence moves pixels around to try and compensate – but this in turn causes screen clarity issues.
As I’ve said many times before, this whole Smart Watch technology is basically a work in progress and under development. And I would further suggest it will be a considerable time before these quite major issues are resolved – battery life being the big one. I also question the entire idea and necessity for an intermediate device between your wrist and your pocket, where your smart phone resides and which incidentally has a far better battery life than the so called “smart” watch and it has all the software required to actually do something with it.
At this moment in time I just don’t see the point.
But if battery life was suddenly increased to a couple of years or even just one, then who knows. But to have all this expense just so my wrist can tell me I have an email or a message, when my phone in my pocket has already buzzed to let me know anyway? Come on . . . . .
Watch space 
You must be logged in to post a comment.