Update of Eterna·Matic from 1973

This is an update from a Post I did in 2015, brought about today by my re-organising and relocating my watch storage ideas – and as I saw it, thought I’d check it over. Always worth checking for any errors or incorrect info made at the time, and update on it’s condition and any other images I have, I can add.

Occasionally I visit Antique Fairs, mostly as an accompaniment to my Wife who’s into Art Deco, so I take the opportunity to seek out any Watch sellers that happen to be there.

Eterna-Matic 2002 from 1973 — Eterna·Matic 2002 from 1973

Anyway, trawling around the Fair and in amongst the “house clearance” stuff and quite a few watches that obviously lived their lives in boxes full of old nails, I did come across a guy who actually had some decent stuff. His prices were the sort of prices I understand – he’s a watch guy – say no more! and we got on.

Quite a few decent models there too, from Jaeger LeCoultre to Omega to Rolex and so on, but the one that caught my eye was this lovely super condition Eterna·Matic 2002 from 1973. It simply stood out as one of those very good but understated Brands and this one as good today as the day it was produced. The case is that lovely cushion/tonneau shaped ’70s style and in really good condition with no corrosion or plating loss.

Perfect original dial - not bad after 43 years! — Original dial – as good as it gets.

The excellent mechanical movement is the Calibre 12824 or (ETA 2824) automatic date, which beats along at a very smooth 28,800 a/h frequency. The description “sweep” seconds hand really does apply here.

The serial number is scribed on the movement, as is the Eterna·Matic name, Brevet Swiss (Swiss patented). The movement condition is also excellent, the rotor sweet and smooth and the watch dial is something to be very pleased about. The watch back is screwed stainless steel with an intact near perfect condition rubber gasket seal and engraved case number.

Approximately 38 mm wide (39 mm including the semi-recessed Crown) by 37 mm lug to lug and the wrist shot is self evident – pretty much perfect. The Crown is part shrouded by the neat underside chamfered shaping of the case and a slight indent on the top/side of the case.

The dial is really good – the gold hands and baton markers crisp and clear, the dial’s vertical brushed Gold texture background and wonderfully light contrasting outer index a total delight and all original. Note the Crown – is topped with the 5 protruding balls logo and matches the dial logo. The strap is a 19 mm wide non-original (the old one was done) Condor in a soft flexible Buffalo Calf which matches up very nicely.
Watch dimensions – just about ideal for me or indeed anybody today despite the penchant for large watches, this just fits perfectly.

As good as it gets on the wrist! Makes some modern watches look bland! (2015

The watch functions smoothly, the date change crisp and the date wheel is in perfect condition and it is one very accurate movement, as was intended.

The Eterna-Matic Automatic Cal 12824 - 28,000 beats — The Eterna·Matic Automatic Cal 12824 – 28,000 beats (2015)

Interesting model this as it started off life in 1972 (Eterna have been around sine 1856) and it was with this Eterna·Matic named model that the Company re-introduced itself to the world.
It was a bit of a revelation in the Watch Industry as it was the first watch to wind itself automatically by means of ball bearings – self polishing too, which reduced friction losses considerably and as a result produced a remarkably accurate movement. They even offered a Ladies model with the same set up – and that was something really new.

Eterna·Matic 1973 automatic – (image 2024)

And so here it is in 2024 after 51 years and looking great! – now that has to be quality. And as to value? Well let’s just say that I was VERY pleased at the time I bought it. . . .
This is not the first Eterna·Matic in my collection – and it won’t be the last, I’m sure.

Screw down back & semi-recessed crown (image 2024)

Note –As a brand Eterna today is often forgotten about by the mainstream, which is an oversight in my opinion as their range of models are both technically interesting and varied.

Models such as the Adventic which features the Eterna in-house Calibre 3843 with their Eterna Spherodrive mechanism (ball bearing mounted barrel) or the hand wound Madison big date (one of my favourites), which features an 8 day Calibre 3510 with a serially coupled pair of spring barrels working in tandem to deliver 192 hours of power thanks to that Spherodrive system. This is a hand wound model that only requires to be wound 3 times a month!

So plenty of innovation from Eterna and certainly should always be a consideration if looking for a more individual watch today. I hope to run a Post at some point on the range of models currently available

Note – The original Post is still on the main Posts section, but as I’ve now updated it, I’ll delete it from there. There is a copy of the Post in the Vintage gents section and I’ll update that one with this update as I go along.

Update Genta

Gerald Genta G3268.G Bartolomeo – Alarm (Omega 980 19J movement) back from service and looking good.

This was my first Gerald Genta and after taking it from it’s display resting place (apart from a couple of weeks annually that I wear it) I thought it could do with a bit of a service. So, a month or so ago I sent it away for a complete service and am delighted to say it’s back and is as good as the day I got it.

My Genta Bartolomeo (image updated April 2024)

My model which features the Omega 908 Automatic alarm movement from sometime around 1995, so bang in the middle of Gerald Genta’s best production period – and as I’ve discovered since, this particular model is rather rare. The 980 movement itself appeared first back in 1968, used in Seamaster models and the Memomatic of 1970.

Only a very few of this model have been seen at auctions in the last 15 years and this one changed hands at least once before it got to me. I love it as it shows off the Genta style and was my first introduction to the Brand.

To recap – this a Gerald Genta Bartolomeo Alarm Calendar watch with slate dial and centre rotating disc wheel, gold filled numerals and luminous markers, gold hour, minute and seconds hands, plus the GG logo in gold on a red tipped Alarm pointer, which is on the central disc. This points to the hour and the half hour and enough space is on the index for pretty accurate setting of the Alarm time.

The Alarm function is indicated by a central rotating disk and operated and set using the upper Crown.

The time is set by the main/centre crown @3.

The mechanical Alarm is activated by the upper crown(between 1 & 2) when pulled out one click. With the upper crown pulled out two clicks, it disengages the main crown from the hour and minute hands, which then allows the main crown to set/move the Alarm pointer hand (disc) – in either direction. Pushing in the upper crown, re-engages the main crown to the hour and minute hands, as normal.
The alarm is mechanical and the sound is produced by a small hammer striking a gong attached to the movement. It is what I would call (and Omega said this too) a discrete sound and rather nice in comparison to the modern digital ones. I find it really quite good as not only I can actually hear it (not so with digital alarms as I’m at an age now where I don’t hear certain frequencies) plus it has a bonus of a gentle vibration as the hammer hits the gong.

The watch (although automatic) can also be manually wound using the main crown.

Also of note is the fact this Alarm does not require winding – this is done automatically by the normal auto movement (one winding barrel suffices) and is operational again within an hour of striking, with normal wrist wear.

This is almost the same as the Omega Memomatic which shares the same 980 movement. The difference being the Memomatic has a second disc on the dial which has inscribed minutes, which allows it uniquely to be set precisely to the minute.

The dial layout also features a clearly defined large Date between 3 & 4 o’clock and there is a handy quick set date adjuster, just below the 2 o’clock position on a small raised case mount, in the form of a small pusher.

The bronze coloured bezel is secured with 4 screws. The crystal is Sapphire and slightly domed. The watch case is stainless steel, as is the back with securing screws. On the back is the serial number & model details inscribed plus the brand logo. The Gerard Genta logo is also featured on the red tipped Alarm pointer, which form part of the central slate disc on the dial. (Note – a few Genta models feature bronze cases and it’s sometimes tricky to tell, but I thing this one is steel).

My Gerald Genta still has the original T bar leather strap and the original signed stainless steel double deployment clasp. Case diameter is 40mm ex. crowns. and 13mm thickness.

The value of this watch is certainly higher today than when I bought it at auction and as said, few of this one have appeared for sale. So, I’m really pleased with what was at the time, an impulse buy!

Gerald Genta watches are seen as an iconic brand and this one started off a small personal collection of the brand – though this, as it was my first, is my favourite.

Update (April 2024) – So the watch is looking good, serviced and polished and with a new 2 year guarantee no less, no issues during the service and appears as good as it was when made – I am very pleased.

My Tissot T-Touch

Wearing my old Tissot T-Touch Solar for this week and I’m still impressed by it’s look and functions.

My 2013 Tissot Solar T-Touch. Titanium. (image April 2024)

The technical aspects of this model were pretty much ground breaking at the time. I got this back in 2014 about a year after it came out.

Details of this model specifically can be found on my original Post – here

However, I thought I’d have a look at Tissot, 11 years on and have to say, they really have moved on! Same fundamentals, but really updated to part smart watch to whatever you need it to be. Awesome.

You can check out the direct replacement for my old model here – https://www.tissotwatches.com/en-gb/t1214204705101.html

Colourful strap with this one and a few more functions with phone messages and activities control, but very familiar to me.

Am I tempted?

Well, I have to say yes, but I won’t be getting it as it costs around £1000 and I’m not into activities such as trekking and running and all that stuff, at my age – and as for messages – well – I can simply use my phone, so not really required.

But it looks great and I’m sure it will attract those younger than myself, who like me decided it was just the thing for them at the time.

I note they have done away with the old hat digital window and dates and data all appear on the screen – a la Smart phones – just goes to show that maybe today I’m out of Touch! (get it?)

My 480 CW new images

Had a mental block today and couldn’t remember what movement my 18ct gold Jaeger Lecoultre dress watch had. (my memory not as good as it was!). So, had no choice but to unsnap the back off to have a look.

18ct Gold Jaeger LeCoultre gents manual wind – circa 1950

Of course it shows the movement as the cal. 480 CW (how could I forget?) and the serial number dates it I think to around to early 1951 (or maybe late 1950?). I should have known as I’m relocating my collection from boxes to drawers over the next week or so and it was in my box marked 1945 – 1955, so what can I say?

I remember I did that as the watch was sold as 1949 and I gave it some leeway, though I was pretty sure it was early fifties. Anyway, at the time I told myself to check, but apparently never did. Probably as I discovered at the time JL were and still are, touchy about publicising serial numbers/dates. Back then they charged a fee that for me I thought was a bit steep (just checked and it’s now up around £250!) – so I’ll happily go with the dates I’ve decided after checking some JLs for sale, where the dates were given – and checked my serial No. against these – and I’m close enough.

Jaeger LeCoultre Cal. 480 CW manual wind

In my photo I’ve blanked out the serial number, but I can say it was 6 digits starting 82, so maybe that’ll help others with a rough guide.

I did wonder in passing as to what it’s value would be in comparison to when bought, not that I have any intention of selling but it’s always nice to know.
Certainly when I look at todays pre-owned watch auction prices for what are relatively ordinary watches, it appears most have have trebled, though I’m very sceptical as to their true worth.

However, Jaeger LeCoultre is a “name” and renowned for their high quality. My one here is in superb condition and is 18ct solid gold, so I’m pretty sure based on the general increase, it should easily mange a threefold increase. So that’s nice!

This is something I never really thought about when I first started collecting, as I bought models that I liked, regardless of brand or for any investment reason. I bought what I liked and within what for me, I thought “affordable”, however subjective that is and I wanted simply to wear them.

However, with the inflated prices being asked today for some pretty mundane everyday models, maybe in retrospect I should have considered it.
But it is what it is and if it does manage to value at 3 x times my outlay, then great – but I’m not considering selling.

So, this Post – just an update to add a couple of images taken this week (March 2014) of this iconic brand and my elegant Cal. 480 which is a bit of a classic.
This LeCoultre is one of a select number I used to wear at functions and dressy holidays (not so many these days!) as it’s just such a delight to wear – and what’s always surprised me, are the number of people who actually notice it and comment. It seems there are folks around who actually make a point of looking at what watch you have (maybe they want to get out more !).

To illustrate – in Berlin, Germany a few years back I actually got an offer for it, quite out of the blue when in a meeting – but I declined the offer.

Then a few weeks later in Budapest, an ‘older than she looked’ lady stopped me and asked me for the time AND made me an offer. But I was old enough to realise this offer was for something else entirely – and before you jump to conclusions – I declined! 😉

My wife, who was just across the street looking at a shop window, came over to re-join me and asked if I knew this woman –
I said, “No, she was just asking for the time!” and said no more.

I’m stopping this Post now, before things get out of hand . . . . .