Memories of Military watches?

One of the most often abused terms is “military” when applied to watches and caused mostly by the fact that watch technology has moved on since the first idea of a Military Specification model appeared. The concept had many facets, each of which was ticked off as a preferred requirement. Indeed it covered such aspects as case materials, what and why used – such as non-shiny and have fitness properties in respect of weather and wear and in situations rarely encountered in civilian life.

Water, mud, night use and physical damage. Although it had to be rugged it also had to be reliable and a good time keeper. Dark dial with white or green luminous numerals which were of legible size, often a 24 hour track and the watches must be if not minimalistic, simple to operate. Battery powered models should have a quick and easy way to replace the battery, hence the battery “hatch” found on many Mil Spec models (though in truth some hatches are anything but easy to get the battery out, once in) Bracelets or straps have to be tough and not fall off easily and both the case and the strap must be waterproof and abrasion resistant.

MWC W10 military - Tritium. A simple interpretation of Mil Spec. — MWC W10 military – Tritium lights. A Mil Spec classic.

And these are just the basics, but as I say watch technology has moved on and so too has the “basic” requirements of a military specified model today. That said some of the best models around are still based on the old specification, as the basic warfare situation, certainly for ground soldiers has hardly changed. In fact many of the older models are collectors gold depending on the Brand and particular Mil Spec at the time.

Uzi Tritium on Quick strap. Another simple Mil Spec interpretation. — Uzi Tritium on Quick strap.
Another Mil Spec interpretation with tritium.

But today “military” as a description of modern watches is perhaps more a fashion statement than a serious and proper “fit for purpose” requirement and there are literally dozens of military “style” models around, from good to bad and from expensive, to cheap as chips. Interestingly a really decent “genuine” military model doesn’t have to cost the earth as long as it gets the basics right.

With the decrease in luminous analog models today unless buying a true Mil Spec model, the “military style” watches, often digital or combo watches tend to feature LE back light displays or dials models. As one of the original requirements of case design is to be non-shiny, to me the idea of any back lights at night, could well be an enemy sniper’s delight and the last thing you saw!

There are few models around that feature a cover, so if checking your watch it would make sense to exercise extreme caution and only expose the dial briefly with the hand shrouding it from being visible by others? – care would certainly be my watchword! But of course I digress – as I’m really talking about Military “style” watches now.

Whilst there is still a market for true Mil Spec models it’s the fashion market that rules today’s biggest market what I’ll call “M-style” watches and basically for those of us who want that military look or style or “stealth” or “macho” model.
Because we collect them and have lots of fun wearing them and because they look good on that camping trip or whatever. Indeed there are so many, that often original concepts are not considered.

In fact some are so “stealthy” that they are virtually impossible to read and forgetting the most basic tenet of all – you must be able to see it to read it – and this for any watch!

Here, I must note that many digital watches, both combo and digital can and often do suffer from lack of clarity, unless they have a very good digital display. Fortunately we have the likes of Casio who’s displays are probably the best available (certainly the positive displays) though there are others, whilst they look great on enhanced photos on web sites, are in reality pretty awful and frankly not worth the money.

The Casio on the other hand is used by so many military folks whether Mil Spec or not, is one the the success stories of watch models today. Some of the G-Shock series in all practical aspects meet and surpass most military requirements AND manage to meet the fashion of the day too. Quite a feat. Mind you, talk to a few forces people and their individual ideas of a “military” model that suits their requirements are often very different. What suits you maybe doesn’t suit me – and so on.

The Casio GD120CM5 digital Camouflage model shown here is one with an excellent display, tough case, dull finish, shock resistant, water resistant to 200m and has a whole pile of extra functions from chronograph to Alarms and OK it does have a decent LED back light – so you MUST take care when using that! So, as far as a digital only model at $130 it’s also pretty good and the camouflage case and strap is a nice touch. Also uses the CR2015 battery so expect around 7 years. But that strap – is it changeable for a standard fit strap? Unfortunately not, as it uses a proprietary resin affair from Casio fitted to 16mm? spring bars – very odd set up – and that’s a pity – but for the price of the watch – maybe buy 3 of ’em – should last a few years, even in action.

However, for me maybe a good combo model with digital AND analog hands (luminous, might be a more sensible option).
Now OK I know that analog hands could be susceptible to shock situations (though never in all my years, including military) but the advantage for me of the “quick glance” at analog hands is something that digital displays simply cannot match. And in a war situation, believe me, you don’t have much time!

Personally and this is just me talking, there are one or two essential requirements.

1 – it must be legible, day and night – so a good back light display and/or luminous hands, plus a gloved had as a shroud – for sniper safety.
2 – it must be Water Resistant to at least 100m, preferably more, as wading in a river with currents is NOT the same as walking in the rain.
3 – preferably non-shiny and with a standard strap fitting or at least screw-in strap bars.
4 – it must be intuitive/easy to operate. In other words I have no interest in carrying a watch manual with me wherever I go.
5 – Quartz is fine and as accurate as you will need. And functions IF useful – if not, stick to basics.

Now if some of these basic requirements seem familiar it’s not surprising is it and does show how sensible the basic Mil Spec ideas were after all!

Casio GW2500BD-A - OK but no cigar! — Casio GW2500BD-A – OK but no cigar!

So what have I found so far?
The Casio BD2500BD-1A shown here is not bad at all, as they use real hands, solid and luminous plus used 2 x displays. But two issues here – 1) they’ve tried to illuminate the entire dial with a dial light – not a good idea and too bright – Why not a simple back light?. The luminous hands will look after themselves. And 2) an integral strap resin affair – if it breaks you’re done!
And amazingly, this model still has shiny old style pushers – surely non-reflective would be better.

It’s also maybe too well specified regarding features – when I was pushing mud in full kit, there’s maybe too much data on my wrist – so perhaps simple is better.
One thing this has shown me is that to find a suitable combo model is maybe NOT as simple as you might think.

Going back to the Casio Camouflage model model above – you would think that all you have to do is add a couple of analog hands and hey presto as if by magic – you’re done. Well think again, because just adding hands is not that easy. Hands generally means the display would be smaller and an hour track also takes up more dial space. You also might have to make the hands skeletal so you don’t hide the digital display, which in turn decreases luminous quality. In short designing a model that has a truly legible analog AND digital dial is quite tricky and you can end up (and often the case actually) with dial some ludicrous dial clutter and no luminosity. Try to light it all and it rarely works well – even for Casio. Better to keep it simple – lume the hands and markers well and only light the digital display is my advice.

St Moritz Momentum Format 4 - not much tougher than this guy! — St Moritz Momentum Format 4 – not much tougher than this guy!

What about Dive watches? and here I already have one that just about meets the requirement –

The St Moritz Momentum Format 4 Whilst not totally dull finish it does at least have a good matte satin finish and it’s debatable if it reflected easily in a torch beam for example, but it’s the nearest yet to my specification. Dial wise it has large and very luminous analog hands with center seconds, great luminous numerals and markers AND 2 x digital displays, both of which are clearly visible in daylight and have excellent back lit illumination in the dark. It also has a 24hr track.
Add to that a pretty decent function set with some scroll too, World Time, Alarm, Chronograph and a Timer it’s well specified.
It takes a standard fitting and interchangeable strap and a 200m Water Resistance with screw down Crown and back. It’s also a neat size at just 42mm across and a more robust steel case you will rarely meet and it has a VERY thick crystal. So not sold as “military” but does a pretty good job fooling me!

Timex T49967 Expedition Alarm Chronograph

I also checked out Timex as they do have a very cheap and affordable and very lightweight combo Expedition model with analog hands and a digital display and the hands are luminous. However, the hands as are shortened and the luminous quality is disappointing for Timex. Solid full length hands would have been so much better and why they’re part skeleton is a complete mystery to me, as the solid part left still sweeps across the digital display anyway.
So maybe a cheap attempt, but they managed to get some of it right – with its non shiny resin, standard strap, decent size with digital function set with Chronograph and Alarms etc, though I can do without the lap and split time stuff buttons on the front as I can’t ever see me using these, unless inadvertently. It also has the “Indiglo” back light system which I’ve always thought an idea that should be good, but rarely is. But the poor lume is a real issue. So, good try, but not there yet.

I also checked out the Casio GA100-1A series of Combo military models and discounted them for 2 reasons. First the luminous analog was confined to the hour markers but NOT the hands which I find surreal. And 2nd the overall dial light is torch like and not my idea of sensible illumination at all. It is also a very large watch which does nothing for me – so not a contender.

The problem with this topic is it’s almost unending, as there are so many watch models out there that meet only certain aspects of the “military” ideal and that ideal spec’ changes depending on who you’re talking to. So the only answer is to decide what you want from a watch, decide what you want to do with that watch, decide on a price range, get it and see if it works for you.

If not, then like me you’re off again on that never ending trawl to find that “ideal” watch – of course you’re never actually going to find it, because there’s always another one just round the corner. OK you might one today that seems to fit your ideal, wear it for a while and yet? what was that watch I saw the other day – wow! it looked awesome! Oh boy . . . .!

Lastly – and after all that’s been said – I managed a post regarding the watch I actually used and was with me in my silly years, back in my military days and you’d be surprised. It wasn’t a Military spec or Diver or Stealth or Tough or Tactical – absolutely not. One of the reasons I suppose being that such terms back then didn’t even exist.

My watch (I only had one) was a gold plated manual dress watch, fortunately with luminous (radium) analog hands and no seconds hand, but with a date window and on a standard leather strap and it survived the worst (arguably the best) years of my life.

And as with things in general, well into my civilian life, it eventually disappeared, but it we had both survived. And it does illustrate that you don’t really need all those fancy descriptive models hyping their so-called military connections. Suddenly you’re in the Forces with whatever watch you had at the time. Then before you know it – you’re in action somewhere and funnily enough time isn’t a commodity you have much of in these situations and you and your watch just get on as best you can.

I have to say we both experienced a few bullet scars, but well – that’s life!

The trouble with triples

The trouble with triples.

By triples, I mean the Day, Date and Month complication watches and the trouble refers to actually being able to clearly see the three indications. Often these are small and in some instances, very small, which is a real pity as conversely the Time is easily read. And example of clarity difficulties would be this first example – The Davis –

A Davis 1730MB model with triple calendar function - but tricky to read. — A Davis 1730MB model with triple calendar – but Day and Month are just too small.

In my opinion this is a case of the promotion outweighing the presentation and somewhat ironic.

So I’m on the lookout for a triple complication “analog” model that properly and clearly can show the three sets of data and at reasonable cost. And not as easy as you might think! As can be seen in the first example of a low to medium priced model the Davis 1730MB quartz analog, the Day and Month windows are so small that reading the data is tricky to say the least. Conversely, the Date indicator on the outer dial index with it’s centre hand pointer and red capture cup is actually good.

Another example is actually from my own collection, the Dugena Calendar model where tiny windows are an issue.

On the wrist that Dugena Calendar info is just too small — On the wrist that Dugena Calendar info again is just too small

Nice watch, good Ronda Swiss quartz movement, but those Day and Month apertures are just too small for comfort, which is a real shame. And there are many others with the same issues, which is a really annoying feature, as the whole point of the model as alluded to by their respective descriptions, is that these are Day, Date and Month complication/indicator watches, but in reality a complication too far – you can’t easily read the darned things. Surely a contradiction in promotion over presentation.

I suppose the common denominator of these models is to be found in the price range. It seems that low to medium price models just don’t manage to produce the clarity required, and yet the more expensive ones often do.

F.P. Journe Quantieme Perpetuel Watch - Wow! — F.P. Journe Quantieme Perpetuel Watch – definitely better in the clarity stakes.

Like this one – The F.P. Journe Perpetuel manages this feat quite easily. Good size apertures, clear printing and a total delight to see all the data simultaneously, but certainly at a cost? and more than I am willing to pay.

But it does show it can be done and we’re simply talking about “indications” here, not too much about complication of movement mechanics, though this does have a bearing, so one would think it surely should be possible at a sensible cost.

Triple Calendar - no problem for Patek Philippe! — Patek Triple Calendar – about as good as you’ll get!

Then there’s the Patek Philippe model, which obviously has a much more complicated set of wheels inside, so perhaps this has merit as to expense, but goodness isn’t it good. Such clarity and possibly one of the very best.

So, my search continues amongst the many thousands of low to medium priced mechanical models that abound today (not including ana/digi types).

I also repeat when I say, today, as there were quite a few Calendar watches in what you would call “vintage” that are actually better then most modern offerings.

But as to modern affordable, this seems to be a rare item indeed, but that’s what I’m looking for and it is not that easy to find.

My search continues.

2022 favourite Diver update

November 2022 – latest update –

Been looking at today’s Divers and there are an so many out there, it’s become a crowded category. The Apeks Diver shown here is still my favourite even at just 200m water resistance, so for normal everyday use and occasional swimming and so on, it’s virtually impossible to beat – period! The price unfortunately is now around £90, so gone up a fraction and I’m unsure that the same quality is there. Some changes seem to have taken place, such as no day shown, just the date.
I’m also unsure if the range of models is available and they have changed the name from Apeks to Cressi, so perhaps new ownership and new ideas.

What IS obvious, is the fact that what were once VERY affordable Diver watches as a category, the prices have rocketed and that is a real shame. Some are very expensive, I’ve seen cluttered dials, thin hands, not that easy to read, date windows that are simply too small. Some are automatic (OK) some quartz (also OK) – digital models too and some with debatable clarity in the water etc etc.
But, so many have issues for me, mostly to do with the increased prices and practicality and what they actually deliver. And that should be very simple – water resistance as specified, real dial clarity (not based on massaged photos or art pictures) plus a sensible value price. And every time I come up with my Apeks, which I bought in 2013 I think – and here we are –

Original Post 2013 –

I thought I’d have one last look to find a “best value Diver” watch, that was as good as the mainstream boys and hopefully considerably cheaper. After a little bit of investigation I did manage to find one and it impressed me so much – I bought it! It is the Apeks 200 AP0406 Mens Professional Diver, named and sold by the Apeks Diving Company and one of their best sellers – and if first impressions turn out to be true, I can see why!

Apeks AP0406 Mens 200m Professional Dive Watch

For a Divers model straight out of the box it seems on first looks to tick all the boxes –

Easy to read analogue dial, large luminous markers and hands.
Tested to 200 metres Water Resistance.
Tough compact Stainless steel case with Screw Down bezel.
Large uni-directional bezel for dive timing.
Very reliable Seiko/Epson Quartz movement.
A large, readable day and date window @3 (not a requirement but nice if you have it).
Polyurethane PU strap with flat inner surface, fitted to standard lug strap fittings.

Sounds good doesn’t it AND available for under £70! (now around £90) Too good to be true?

Solid case, uni-directional bezel and Screw Down Crown. Quality build.

Well I have it here in my hands and first impressions are not only good – they are very good!

It is very well made with an excellent stainless steel case. The case finish is brushed on the top and shiny sides and nicely shaped too. The size is about perfect at 41mm diameter according to my micrometer and 44mm including the crown. Lug to lug is 47mm and only 10.8mm deep, so this is a really neatly made case. Good crown protection and the well knurled crown is a decent Screw Down and performs very well – no hint of any cross threading here. In short a very well made exterior. The crystal I believe to be mineral glass appears flat.

41mm diameter x 13.8mm depth - makes for a compact fit. — 41mm diameter x 10.8mm depth – makes for a compact fit.

The well defined uni-directional bezel has 60 clicks, which has excellent feedback, are smooth and definite and the large minute markers at 10, 20, 30, 40 and 50 including the zero align exactly with the internal dial minute track. Another indicator of the quality of this watch. And as to the question “Can I operate the bezel with gloves?” – the answer is yes. Oh there is also a very effective luminous dot at Zero on the bezel.

The back is clean and smooth, has a stainless steel screw back with model details, model Number, 200m Water Resistance etc.

Stainless Steel screw back and standard strap pins.

The watch has a nice weight at 78gms, which is lighter than the Citizen at 88gms and the Seiko Monster at 113gms, so not heavy on the wrist at all.

The dial is matte black with large very luminous markers. The broad hour and minute hands are good length and have excellent luminous infills. The centre seconds hand has a bright luminous arrow tip and also lines up accurately with the minute perimeter track. In addition this model has an outlined day and date window @3, which is well proportioned and easy to read with a decent contrast and easy read font.

The luminous quality is every bit as good as Seiko and betters my Citizen Diver and I can easily read the time after 6 hours in the dark. The shape and layout of the markers and hands makes for easy reading. This is much better than I’d hoped even against models over 8 times the price and easily matches the Citizen Diver I featured earlier.

In summary this watch surpasses all my expectations by a considerable way – not only does it look good, it IS good, darned good. 🙂
The only question I have is “Why did it take me so long to find it!”

Good dial layout, broad decent length hands and good lume.

Forgive the repetition, but this is one good looking watch and it’s a delight to wear, even with it’s standard Polyurethane PU strap (and that’s unusual in my experience). I was going to change it for one of my silicon deployment ones, but as I’d run out of them I wore it, as is, straight out of the box – and it’s very comfortable! Probably the most comfortable of my three Divers. (update – I discovered why it was more comfortable. Diver straps invariably have that “wave” in the rubber, three or four heavy “ripples” near the watch body. Well this one has those as well BUT are flat on the wrist side, making for a very comfortable strap).

On the wrist in standard strap - best fit I have. — On the wrist in standard strap – best fit I have.

So a surprisingly good watch and terrific value in my opinion – and just what I was looking for. In fact this is my Xmas present to me!

One point – the sales information by the seller states it’s a Seiko/Epson VX42 movement, that generic version is a date only @6. This model has the day and the date @3 and this movement is actually the Epson VX43E
And as I’ve found in the past, it’s as smooth as silk and appears so far to keep very good time indeed. I would also note that the font used on the Epson VX Date and Day wheel is one of the better ones I’ve come across – other brands should take note!

Note –

One small point is that whilst it comes well packed in a nice box – it doesn’t come with instructions. Now a day, date quartz model isn’t rocket science I know, but if you don’t know watches too well – they would be handy.

Another small niggle – I would prefer the Logo to be fainter, so total concentration or quick glance immediately sees the hand and markers and nothing else. But that’s me.

The crown @3 of course sets everything on this watch – Unscrew the crown from it’s screw down position, let it pop out free, then pull out to first position, turn left or right to adjust the day or the date, pull out to position 2 to adjust the hands. This is a hacking movement, so the second hand stops when you adjust the hands, which is so useful for accurate setting.

Remember even with quartz watches if they’re analogue, it’s best when setting the day or the date, to first move the time to anywhere between 0300 and 0900. You do this as setting the day and date within the change over period (roughly 2200 to 0200 +/-) it could cause damage to the mechanism. So to make sure, you should move the hour to a time where no changeover occurs – as above. The best and easiest way is to set the day and the date for yesterday’s date (this is important) – and once done you can in crown position 2, advance the hands until the day and the date change to today’s date – (the date will probably change first at around midnight to 01.30 ish, followed sometime later up to around 02.00 by the date). Then set (advance) to your present time with the crown at position 2 (if a morning time, you won’t pass the 12, if an afternoon time make sure you pass the 12).
Sounds complicated (and maybe I’ve confused you) but it’s really quite easy really.

And finally – Here is an image of three of my value Divers – (I have probably a dozen or so now (2022) – and for the money I believe they are about as good as you’ll get today – but the Apeks is really something – at under £70? Brilliant and I wished I’d found it sooner. Certainly on first acquaintance I have to recommend it. And I note that it is available in a Ladies version – Model AP0406-2 Ladies 200m Professional Diver with a slightly small diameter.

My Divers - value for money and great quality. — My Divers – these WERE value for money and great quality. But now? Priced out?

These watches and used to be seen HERE.

So that question again – Which do I like the best – now? Well, I like them all and that’s the truth. I love the “Monster” because it’s got that “something” and I like the Citizen, as it’s 300m and very sleek and compact and now very comfortable in it’s silicon strap. But practically my pick is the Apeks at under £70.00 – I mean what’s not to like!

Lume wise – the Seiko and the Apeks are both excellent and better than the Citizen which doesn’t last as long in the dark it’s OK but not as good as the others.

From a practical point of view I’m leaning towards the Apeks I have to admit – I mean it’s just so good and at an amazing price. I think Christmas is here already!

Have a nice one everybody!

Note – When it comes to getting yourself a watch for everyday use, it’s worth considering a “divers” watch. Not the so-called professional (read expensive) style ones, but ones similar to those featured here. You may not need one of those large ribbed straps and even if the watch you like has one, more often than not they are easily changed to a simple silicon deployment strap or even a leather one. But there’s no doubt that you can get yourself a VERY good watch at a VERY good price when looking at the Divers. Great strength, very easy to read and they usually look great.

Have fun.

2022 final update – 25th November

Well after the last update – that original strap I liked so much, has finally given up the ghost – became too brittle (lasted from 2013 to 2022) – so, I changed it for a standard silicon, double deployment strap and it’s once again just about perfect. Shows the value of having a watch that features standard spring bar fittings for the strap.

Happy days!

Elgin Art Deco 1928

Another Ladies vintage watch in my collection is this nice 1928 Elgin Art Deco model in 14k Gold with a the original 15 jewel movement. The fact that this is working perfectly after nearly 100 years, is a testament to Swiss watch movements of the day.

I particularly like this model owing to the enamel decoration of the dial bezel/top face, which nicely highlights the figured Elgin marked dial. Not water resistant of course as this was a hinged snap back case and the crown arbor design was via a quite large case entry. The crown is also very easy to use, being quite large.

As was usual at this time, especially in Ladies more fashionable designs, the case has engraving all around the top and side of the case and the case back is perfectly plain.

Very similar to the Elgin ‘Parisienne’ range of models, in regards the use of enamel decoration, though in the case of this particular model, not sponsored by any particular fashion designer of the day. The Parisienne models of course were closely coupled to the famous French Fashion Houses of that period and I have the pleasure of owing quite a few, or my Wife does . . . .

I like the enamel designs, simply as they lift the usual engraved features to another level often by adding colour and texture. Some feature quite inspired cloisonné decoration on the face design, which for me adds even more interest and appeal.

Elgin produced great watches from 1864 and ceased trading in 1968, so over 100 years and this particular model is 94 years old today and, as I said at the start of this Post, an absolute testament to the inherent quality of mechanical watches – and I don’t see this one stopping any time soon!

Casio, Breitling and Briston?

After all the watches I’ve owned, used and worn, my ultimate choices come down to what I like to wear and whether the watch will manage what I want – it’s as simple as that. And price, believe it or not, has very little to do with it.

Two models are always alternatively on my wrist – my 1999 Breitling Aerospace Titanium and my old Timex Expedition shock job.

Chalk and cheese I hear you say, but in reality and for me, they both provide a similar functionality. Both display what I want to see, at a glance – Time, Day and Date and the Timex adds in the Month, which is fine too – though as old as I am, I still tend to know which month it is – but maybe I’m future proofing? 😉
Both watches have many hidden functions, which can be used if you really want to, though in all honesty, hardly ever these days – but nice to have.

However, and the reason for this Post was prompted the other day when I decided to look up what Briston were doing today. This is the French Brand I first encountered back in 2014, when I bought one of their acetate bodied watches that just seemed right for me at the time.
And looking at their current range – which has expanded somewhat, I’m really pleased to see their original concept is alive and kicking, as that’s what initially got my interest in the Brand.

So, it was this new, but very familiar dial layout design of their new Streamliner Adventure model that got my attention And I thought, a little reminiscent of my Aerospace. An Ana/Digi or analogue and digital, but with that definite classic Briston look, which still features the wonderful Italian Acetate case design, which back then was what prompted me to buy one of their classic non-chrono models.

This multi-function model, though, displays more or less what I have on my two beaters – the Time, Day and Date – at a glance. The rest of the functions, as the Breitling are there, if and when you need them. The Briston, unlike the Aerospace has more than just a crown to adjust, it has the more classic 4 button arrangement – which is no bad thing (the Aerospace has a single crown control which does everything – clever but complicated).

So, this Briston has the look I like and not to forget my Timex – it has that expedition look – that rugged and adventure look. So my interest piqued, I decided to check the Streamliner out – and who knows? – a possible amalgam of my two favourite watches?

The fact it comes with a velcro wrap strap is a good point too. A bit like the NATO, but more modern I suppose and not the first I have in my collection. I have a few Timex watches with this concept. The Briston case is fairly chunky and this strap, just like the NATO, really fits a watch to the wrist and holds it firmly in place, like no other. It’s also pretty well fool proof in the water stakes too, as is the watch with it’s 100m Water resistance rating.

I also like the fact that this watch looks – well – just that bit different, though with all this good vibes about it, there is one slight snag.

Did I say that if you like a watch – price has little to do with it?

Well, lets be honest – it’s ALWAYS a consideration – and this Briston is a case in point – in comparison to a classic dive watch for example (and there are many) – It really is relatively expensive at over £300 – and – perhaps just too much – but nice!

The Cartier contradiction . .

Cartier and bargain are hardly words you would immediately associate together, indeed you might say they are a contradiction in terms – but in this instance you would be wrong!

Whilst I have a couple of old vintage Cartier models, there are two models that always interested me and still available today. Both models, that for myself and others who own them, are both conservative and understated and which do manage that trick of being Classic great buys, whether pristine and just out of the box, or pre-owned. They are, I suppose, models that always tend to sit just under the radar in the “must have” stakes and yet for me personally, out of all Cartier models, these models rate as the definitive Cartier Classics, and given the opportunity, they are a must have.

Maybe one of the reasons why one of my Cartier Tank Solos, is often overlooked, is because it’s quartz, with a stainless steel case and a quality leather strap on a slim deployment. And as Cartier sometimes do and my particular preference, there’s nothing added here, no gold, no diamonds, no frills – instead just a rather deceptively simple “tell the time” dress watch, that somehow, effortlessly, manages timeless elegance with a quiet and discrete Cartier quality.
Elegant in the extreme and dimensionally very sleek in a classic Tank “style” case, this is my compact one, measuring just 27.5 mm x 34 mm and a super sleek 5.6 mm depth, so very neat, compact and dual purpose, as it suits my wife too.
And both models feature the Tank profile that has a flat upper surface profile, which somehow accentuates the sleek look of these models, a subtle change, yes, but one I personally prefer over the rounded profile of some models.

You might also be forgiven for thinking this quartz Cartier is much more expensive than the fact. This is the surprise!
Because even at the retail price, it’s definitely a bargain. Pre-owned, you can get them for around half the retail, at around £1200 and for the date version add another 50% and you’re not far off.

I also have a XL (extra large) 31mm width x 41 lug to lug Ref. 3800 Solo model, which includes the Date and is an Automatic, not quartz and between the two, it’s probably my favourite, with no battery to change – so out of the drawer – a slight shake and we’re in business.

In fact I was so taken with these, that at long last, with a year between them, I firstly bought the quartz (my version is the later 8 year battery one), then the Automatic XL model in a burst of, ‘I’ve just got to have them’ – though in fairness one of them was a present.

Both watches were pre-owned, the condition basically as good as new – and on the wrist – they look really good!

So, elegant, slim and sleek, both absolutely, undisputedly, Classic Cartier – what could be better?

FM202 Dome watch

The Feice FM202 Automatic is another model from my affordable mechanical automatics, which has an interesting look. Simple white face on which rotates blue hands. Hours, minutes and seconds, Plus a Power Reserve indicator, so you know, how long it has to run – without either simply keeping it on your wrist, or winding it – your choice.

The Power Reserve is 35 hours or there about. Note too, this is also a hacking movement.

The movement is an automatic mechanical, 28 jewel (possibly SeaGull), which can be viewed via the transparent case back. Now a few years back, on a budget, I would have much preferred a Miyota (Citizen) movement, as early SG and other Chinese movements suffered from poorly finished parts (pallet fork, escape wheel etc.) and often lacked proper lubrication. Quality control was not the best. However, today I now have a few watches featuring SeaGull power units and to date, have had no issues with any of them. As to the accuracy, these appear to be on a par with most of their competitors. In fact, there are a few Chinese manufacturers (Lioaning Peacock, Memorigin & others) that in recent years have had freedom to go their own way and really improved in both design and quality.

As to this particular watch model, it has to date, performed well, and certainly as good any other in my affordable and mid priced collection of mechanical autos.

The case is 316 stainless steel, 42mm diameter and 11mm thick with 20mm wide lugs, so it takes a decent strap on conventional spring-bars – therefore easy to swap, should you so wish. Also the finish quality is OK, so no complaints on that score either.

On the bright dial, the upper sub-dial @12, indicates the Power Reserve, the lower sub, the running seconds and date window are @6 and all can be seen very clearly through the rather fascinatingly named ‘2.5D Arc Hyperbolic Mirror dome’ crystal, which apparently is both scratch and wear resistant, which, so far, seems to be true.
Note – the Mirror Dome crystal tends to make the watch appear a little thicker cased, than it actually is.

Water Resistance is rated 30m, typical dress watch and basically means splashes (always sounds better than it is), though this is another story, where Official classification tests citing these descriptions can seem quite misleading, if you’re not into these things. In other words, use it as a daily beater in normal circumstances by all means, but don’t go swimming with it, ‘cos it might not manage that too well. The standard ‘swimming’ classification is rated 50m and it should be remembered that these are based on static laboratory tests and not in the real world.

For further information a good explanation of Water Resistance ratings can be accessed here – https://blog.crownandcaliber.com/what-does-water-resistance-in-watches-mean/

On the wrist at 42mm diameter – the maximum for me.

This model version came with a rather hard leather and stainless deployment mechanism, which for me is usually good reason for change. This deployment convertor like many has an annoying fact, in that it makes the strap stick out from the wrist – thus making it look clumsy and likely to catch under a shirt cuff, and the first (fixed) strap keeper is so close to the mechanism, it gets me fiddling around to unclasp the thing. Now there are much neater deployment mechanisms around, so this was disappointing.

Calf leather strap replacement – neater than original deployment.

But easy to fix with standard lugs, and I’ve fitted a nice Birkinstock supple calf leather buckle strap and the watch is, in my opinion, much the neater for it (as shown).

Overall however and swimming limitations aside, this model is a rather good looking watch. It certainly has a look that’s a bit different It works well and if you like this look and it’s not to big for you at 42mm diameter, then it’s not a bad choice – and it is reasonably affordable.

Addendum – I forgot to say, I already briefly mentioned this watch in my “Elegant watches” page some time ago, but said little about it – well I liked the look of it so much – I bought one – so consider a closer look as done.

Thoughts – After wearing this watch for a while, I realised it has something much, much more than just the look, though the soft calf strap in combination, has a definite comfort factor, there’s more.
The fact is, I just love wearing it and I mean this in a way that’s difficult to explain. But I’m wearing it alternatively with my daily beater (Breitling Aerospace) of the last 20 years, that is the FM202 during the day and later I change to the Breitling, basically as I like a luminous watch when it gets dark. It’s that good and certainly this doesn’t happen very often – if ever. I can say no more!

Junkers – revival & update

I have a small collection of Junkers watches and as with other brands I like, every so often I check out their newest offerings, basically to see what improvements or otherwise have been added.

The Junkers Tante JU52 Automatic is one such model that has interested me since it first appeared and today’s version is no exception with that wonderfully figured “ribbed” dial so reminiscent of the Junkers aircraft.

The quality is really outstanding with its superb satin finish solid stainless steel case and Sapphire crystal, through which can be seen the clear, high contrast dial layout. The corrugated dial background with a decent sized date aperture @3, beautifully shaped Dauphinois hour and minute hands complete with Superluminova luminous in-fills are impressively clear to read (the hands are made in France). A long beautifully tapered black centre seconds hand travels majestically around the clearly defined perimeter index. Strongly defined black numerals complete the dial layout, which is signed, Made in Germany at the foot.

Junkers J52 Automatic 24 jewel movement — Junkers JU52 Automatic 24 jewel movement

Note the crown is well protected and additionally has two what appear blanking plates either side, perhaps a dual purpose case arrangement, and Water Resistance is rated as 100m – the overall look to the case however is one of solidity. The back is an exhibition windowed stainless steel screwed back plate, through which you can see the excellent 24 jewel automatic signed Pointec movement. Dimensions are a neat 40mm diameter x 12 mm and the lug to lug is short enough that this model fits the smaller wrist very well. The strap is a really high quality calf leather with two thicknesses, allowing it to be supportive near the case and yet allow flexibility at the buckle – something others should take note of, as all too often thick leather straps can be overly clumsy at the buckle fixing.

Junkers Tante Automatic leather strap with bespoke buckle.

The high quality leather strap, which is quite soft, has an unusual flat twin pin buckle and is one of the most comfortable straps I’ve ever owned.

Another feature is in the wearing. It is one of those watches that for whatever reason, just feels right on the wrist, it is extremely comfortable and a delight to wear and certainly makes me interested in enlarging my Junkers collection. It has also rekindled my love of German brand watches, which seem to have undergone a bit of a revival over the last few years – and I confess to perhaps overlooking them. But no longer, as I will feature a few more in future Posts I’m sure in the not too distant future.

Addendum – 21st July 2021

Well here we are some 6 years on and the Junkers Tante is as good as it was when I bought it. It runs as smooth as silk and as I said in the original Post, it is such a nice watch to wear. Presently, my preferred watch on the wrist for the foreseeable few weeks at least.

Interesting is the inspiration for this watch, which was from the Junkers Ju52/3m aircraft, first produced back in 1930. The designer, Ernst Zindal, used a highly controversial corrugated duralumin metal skin, as a strengthening measure and it was very striking indeed. This is shown in nice detail on the dial. The aeroplane was known both as Iron Annie and Aunt Ju, hence the name of this watch model “Tante” (Aunt in German).

Heavenly De Bethune

I’ve included this amazing piece from De Bethune as it seems to fall pretty much into the sphere of Art and whilst it’s ostensibly for ladies, at 40mm diameter it suits me very well, especially if I was into astronomy! With hand-polished and blued titanium, the sparkling twinkle of the white gold and diamond stars, and the muted glow of the curved blued steel hands . . . . . this is no ordinary watch.

The round sphere of the moon is set with diamonds and sapphires galore (plus Sapphires too) so a bit above the daily beater class, but hey – sometimes you’ve just got to splash out! I love the fact that you can have the star-studded sky personalized on request according to a specific geographical place and even date!

The movement is automatic (self winding), twin barrel with a 6 day reserve, with a special triple shock absorbing system, 27 jewels and 28,800 vibrations per hour and a silicon/platinum balance wheel – just shouts a technically excellent and serious piece of kit and very impressive.

Do I like it? – YES!

Can I afford it?- eh . . . . NO!

Would my Wife like it? . . . .actually she said – NO!

You have no idea how that pleases me and the reason is she tells me, that she prefers numbers on her watches, otherwise how can you tell the time – she says . . .!

Isn’t that sweet!

😉

DeBethune, make some amazing watches and complications that to coin a well known phrase, simply reach “where no man has gone before” (sorry Star Treck) – but they are quite astonishing – and if you have to ask the price – maybe they’re not for you – or me!

Classic Expedition update July ’21

An early vintage digital Expedition Timex is featured in this post, dated around 1998 (80 M745) in pretty decent all round condition. The digital display is clear and basically as good as the day it was bought. Classed as a Chronograph model the features are more or less what you get in the current Expedition models.

1998 Timex Expedition digital display normal daylight.

Digital display wise – Standard view is along the lower part, hours, minutes and seconds plus an AM/PM indicator and the upper part shows Day, Month and Date. Using the lower left pusher or “mode”, this changes the display in turn to Chronograph (with slit/lap timing), Alarm, Timer (100hrs) and 2nd Time Zone, in that order. This model also features a 12/24hr display option and an Hourly Chime. It has a night light (Indiglo) using the top left pusher which is on as long as the pusher is pressed. All setting is done using the lower right pusher and the top right pusher selects Alarm on or off etc. So quite familiar really to anyone used to using these digital display watches. Note in the images shown here the display shows grey background and black numerals when light is not being reflected off it, however its almost fluorescent when the light strikes at some angles and then appears very high contrast green background with black numerals.

Timex digital display in reflecting light - gives fluorescent contrast — Timex digital display in reflecting light – gives fluorescent contrast

In most conditions it’s pretty good though as most of these, the top data can be slightly over-shadowed by the black surround of the watch face. Still featured on some current watches, though I note many now have a visible face area wider than the numerals, so avoiding any possibility of shadows.

It’s a very neat watch at 39mm diameter and only 9mm depth, so a good bit smaller than current Expedition models. It has spring bars so you can fit any standard strap to it, though it actually measures a slightly non standard, but gettable, 19mm width. I have a Timex “E” quick wrap strap fitted and it is perfect and comfortable.

Timex Expedition on the wrist - very neat. — Timex Expedition on the wrist – very neat.

In a dark almost black resin case, light grey bezel with printed pusher data, the back has a stainless steel plate secured by 4 x corner screws and has it has 100m Water Resistance.

1998 v 2012/13 - watches are getting bigger. — 1998 v 2012/13 – watches are getting bigger.

Some of the older Timex models like this one, for me, are often nicer to wear than the present offerings. Only 15 years before the current stuff (an age in electronics of course) the displays funnily enough tended to be neater, as are the watches which were smaller and slimmer and yet managed to portray the excitement of the new Digital age without bulk or large knurled or knobbly bits here and there. They were and still are science fiction in a way, because they’re ground breaking and the core function and the attraction of the watch is not obscured by too much over the top and perhaps unnecessary Dr Who extravagance. Note this model has a battery life of around 6.5 years.

I might yet add more to my digital collection, though perhaps it could be more appropriate to call it my Timex collection, as I seem to be acquiring more of these by the week! Whatever – I’m sure it won’t be the last!

UPDATE – 4th August 2014

Started to get a little erratic this morning and I decided to check out and hopefully replace the battery – assuming this was the problem. Removed the 4 back screws and realized this was a different style of module that I am used to. The center part is a round cover which is actually clipped on to the very large CR2016 battery! The cover is held down by 3 screws to the module board. Simply removed these and un-clipped the battery from the cover once it was in my hand. Replaced the battery by clipping the cover over it, then dropped the cover and battery assembly on to the board, lining up the 3 screw holes and screwed it back in place. Writing on the cover says to “press this” to reset after battery change, referring I think to small metal contact on the module. However on turning the watch over I saw that the digits were indicating fine, so skipped that instruction. Replaced the back of the watch and set the time data. All functions are working perfectly now including the back light, which actually was the first problem I saw prior to replacing the battery. Instead of lighting, it indicated code and altered the time setting to 12:00. This I suspected was the lack of power – hence the battery change today. It took me about 10 minutes start to finish.

Sorry I didn’t think to take photographs, but suffice to say it was very easy to manage.

UPDATE – 16th July 2021

Well here we are some 7 years later after the last battery change. The watch is still working perfectly, display showing just great and a testament to the longevity of this classic Timex Expedition watch. The only thing I had to do was correct the day from the 18th to the 16th (today) and re-adjust the time slightly – it was 5 minutes fast – which is not bad after 7 years from an early quartz.