A masterpiece

This started off as a note in my “Latest” page this week, but I simply had move it to this post, so it could be shared by everyone.  IF you’ve not seen this and you love watches, timekeeping, mechanics and Art – AND a combination f all of those, then this is a treat. From master watchmaker Jaquet Droz comes something very special.

I know when I first saw this a year ago I was utterly blown away and as a collector of watches it was pretty obvious this was WAY out of my league – BUT hey!  you can dream!

I hope to add a few more animation videos when I find ones that interest me – I’ll probably make a new page entitled “The Art of Time” featuring hopefully something a bit special each time.

Classic Seiko

There’s always room for a watch that simply does what it’s supposed to do and Seiko are one manufacturer that have managed this very well.  I refer to the incredibly successful Seiko 5 series of mechanical automatic watches.  Not the quartz models they make by the truck load, but the mechanical, tough as old boots, never need a battery models that those in the know buy and collect.  I recently bought one for my collection, hence this brief introduction post.

Seiko 5
Seiko 5 Automatic

The model name “5” refers to the 5 features that Seiko wanted to highlight in this particular and large range.  Or rather this is one of the most accepted explanations for the title.  An “unbreakable” mainspring (Diaflex) and an antishock system to rival Incabloc (Diashock).  It also had to be a mechanical auto-winding movement, have a day and date function and have a have decent Water Resistance.

The movement is usually from the Singapore made 7s26 or 7s36 series and these are pretty much stalwarts in the Seiko range.  Dependable, rugged and with acceptable and adjustable accuracy over the long term.  Non hacking, non-hand winding, unidirectional, 21 jewel auto beating @12,600bph, it’s one of those movements that seem to go on forever, regardless of whether serviced or not, looked after well or stuck in a drawer for years.  Take it out – move it a bit and it’s off and running!

The only downside with the Seiko 5 series is that there are literally hundreds of fakes out there purporting to be genuine and increasingly difficult to spot, so extreme care should be taken if looking for one today.  On the good side as with fakes generally there are often, but not always, tell-tale signs that show us that all is not as it seems.  One of the main tell tales on the Seiko 5 is in reference to the date window etc.
For example since 1990 Seiko have used plastic day and date wheels and very often fakes have metal ones.  Since the the last metal day/date wheels on Seiko were on much older models, such as the 7006 or 9 series, you’re looking at 25 or 30 years ago for those.

There will be other signs of faking, but to go into all that would I suspect take a pretty large article and unfortunately still not cover all the possibilities.

Suffice to say if looking for a Seiko 5 – it is very much a case of “buyer beware” – which is a real shame as these are really excellent and reasonable cost watches and great for wearing and collecting.

Fake information sheets are available if you Google for them ( the reference for the above “tells” seems to have gone) I am sure there are quite a few.

New favorite One hand

Whilst I have a few One Hand watches I’m always partial to checking out what else is around.  This one from MeisterSinger, model Neo NE908 is one of my favorites to date.  Not least because it’s a great size at 36mm diameter, for my medium wrist and as a One Hand Reader it’s difficult to beat AND it also has a date window @6.

Meistersinger Neo
MeisterSinger Neo NE908

After a very short time you get to be very accurate with your reading of the time and the fact this one has a separate date window @6 is a bonus.  The hour hand is a large white affair, very clear to read and the date and is unusually highlighted in a red background with white numerals, it looks very contrasty against the dial – a neat touch I think.  The graduations as usual with most MeisterSinger One Hand models are 144 in total, divided into 5 minute intervals, with larger minute markers at 15, 30 and 45 minutes, so very easy to read.

Whilst the watch diameter is neat at 36mm diameter the dial actually covers the entire top surface, so views larger than it actually is.  The full width crystal is hardened Plexi-glass and the case itself is slim at only 10mm, so this is one sleek watch, which looks really good on the wrist.  The movement is a an excellent quality Automatic Swiss ETA 2824-2 and the watch itself is designed in Germany, so a pretty good combination in my opinion.  Case material is Stainless Steel with a solid screw down back, Water Resistance is 3Bar and the 18mm wide quality blue leather strap with it’s snug fit at the case lugs, is complimented by a stainless signed buckle.  Guarantee is for 2 years from MeisterSinger.

MeisterSinger design their range of watches in Munster, Germany though the watches, according to MeisterSinger, are produced by their own bespoke Swiss Manufacturer.  The driving force of the company is one Manfred Brassler who as founder and CEO has brought the company, via many watch innovation awards, to what it is today and still expanding.

I have to say that the quality of this watch appears to be excellent and when I get my own one (Oh yes – I’m thinking of getting one of these!) I’ll post more detailed information at a future date.  They do offer different color models, though I have to say I’m partial to this blue model.  In fact this is a bit of a theme for me at the moment as I have quite a few watch models that I can match to my mood.  Maybe this is a new trend?

Interpretations?

Funny how two entirely different interpretations can be arrived at when faced with one single remit or requirement.  In this case the remit is for a watch with an illuminator or to be more precise, a torch feature.  Not just a dial light but a light that can be used like a torch – quite a practical idea actually and probably more useful than many of the features that modern watches sometimes end up with.

Well – there’s no question here – this is a Watch with a Torch  – and about as basic as you’ll get.StanleyTorchWatchThe torch obviously at the top which and the watch, timer etc on the lower segment is – well – amazing!  I have to confess that the first time I saw this I laughed, then realized it did have a strap and was supposed to be worn on the wrist and was in fact, a serious item . . . but pretty obviously not from a watch maker, but a tool maker and I have to admit it does exactly what it’s supposed to do – a watch and a torch!  What could be simpler?

So how was the requirement met by a watch manufacturer, indeed a Swiss one at that?  Well I have to admit that this particular manufacturer came up trumps with this wonderful creation – AND thought about it seriously.  This is the Victorinox Swiss Army 241569 Night Vision Gents Watch and is something rather special.

Victorinox Swiss Army 241569 Night Vision Gents Watch
Victorinox Swiss Army 241569 Night Vision Gents Watch

Superb looking watch and as the toolmakers effort above, it too has a torch at the top, on the case @12, pointing along the bracelet and so neatly crafted it is barely noticeable at all.  The torch light is activated by pressing the button @8:30 position on the left side of the case.  The number or presses dictates the function – either the dial light (a wonderful blue neon) or the torch or even a strobe for emergency use.

Night vision by Victorinox
Night vision by Victorinox

As you can see in the above image, the light produced is really quite substantial and very practical in lighting up a dark space – handy for that front door lock after a night out on the town.  And you don’t have to worry too much about the battery life as this watch has two batteries – one for the lights and one for the Swiss Quartz Ronda 705 movement.  The watch has triple coated anti-reflection on the sapphire crystal and full luminous hands and markers, plus, and I think perhaps this is overkill, as it also has a superb dial lighting system.  Put it this way – you will definitely be able to read this watch in the dark!

Dial vision by Victorinox
Dial vision by Victorinox

There are a few other bits and pieces on this model, but suffice to say it does show as my title suggests that there’s more than one way to interpret the remit of “What about a watch with a torch on it” requirement.

Now they both manage to meet the requirement very well and obviously there is a price differential here and ultimately you decide for yourself which is for you – but one thing is certain – you have a choice!  I know which one is for me, but being a watch guy it’s pretty obvious and I love gadgets anyway.  So the “Stanley” whilst it might be OK for my toolbox, I just can’t see me wearing it on my night out – so Victorinox it has to be.

Note – The Victorinox Night Vision model first appeared in 2003 and was re-vamped with the model shown here in 2012 and is still current and available.

Longines GMT

Fairly new addition to my little Longines collection is this nice Longines Lindberg GMT World Timer model and it’s one that already I find myself wearing frequently.

Longines Lindberg GMT World Time
Longines Lindberg GMT World Time

At 38mm by 11mm depth it is a good size and fits me perfectly, but the feature that really makes me love this watch is the sheer quality of the entire watch.  In fact the closer you get to it, the better it becomes.

I particularly like the complete look of this model and whilst a neat size it does have a solid look to it, enhanced by the milled edge outer bi-directional brushed steel bezel with the World Time City zones around it.  The bezel does have a click position only at GMT London.  The watch case in  contrast is generally polished Stainless Steel with an exhibition back.  The Water Resistance is 3 atm.

Curve cut enamel date window with GMT disc wheel outer index
Bevel cut enamel date window with GMT disc wheel outer index

Looking closely at the dial you can see that the main numerals dial is enamel and the date window is beautifully cut and chamfered through the enamel.

The black numerals and blue GMT indexes are also perfectly and evenly applied and the very fine GMT chapter disc moves silently with the main hands indicating 24-hour time.  Using this in conjunction with the single click hour hand adjust, it’s simple to set your local time to the city required on the outer bezel.  Interestingly using when adjusting the time, the hands can be moved either way, hours, minutes, date and 24hr GMT indications can move forward or back.  If going back a day, the date simply clicks back one day. This is something I’ve personally not noticed on a mechanical movement before and is very useful.

This way your hands can be quickly adjusted to show local time and the 24-hour ring shows GMT – so a lovely and clever mechanical World Timer without electronics that sits snug on your wrist.

Comfortable on the wrist and a sensible size at 38mm diameter.
Comfortable on the wrist and a sensible size at 38mm diameter.

The crystal is Longines Sapphire with a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale (by comparison Mineral glass is only 6.5) and on this model is subtly curved and quite invisible such is the quality of finish and a corresponding sapphire crystal back shows the very excellent 33 jewel Longines L635.3 Automatic movement (this is based on the ETA 2824/2 base calibre).

Longines L635.3 Swiss Automatic 33 Jewel movement
Longines L635.3 Swiss Automatic 33 Jewel movement

With a center seconds hand and a movement beating at 28,800AH it is very definitely a “sweep” hand and with the gold finely turned colored center giving a subtle contrast to the dark blue infill hands, this is a fine looking and well balanced watch.  It is really quite elegant.

Longines Lindberg GMT World Time with original slate/blue Croco strap
Longines Lindberg GMT World Time with original slate/blue Croco strap

A 3 position Onion crown is a nice size, well figured and easy to use and the strap is the original Longines Croco leather in a sort of slate blue, stamped and signed with a stainless milled buckle.

GMT Word Time City zones bezel - GMT rotating 24hr disc, Hour Numerals
GMT Word Time City zones bezel – GMT rotating 24-hour disc, Hour Numerals
Onion Crown with stainless bi-directional Zone bezel
Onion Crown with stainless bi-directional Zone bezel

Setting instructions (Longines) –Ashampoo_Snap_2013.06.10_11h36m27s_005_Ashampoo_Snap_2013.06.10_11h40m41s_007_Fortunately Longines have an excellent web site where this setting information and movement data is freely available, so even though I bought this pre-owned without instruction papers and so on. it was quite easy to download the relevant information as above.

http://www.longines.com/watches/instructions

http://www.longines.com/watches/technical-information

Their web site covers a wide range of models and is very useful – I have copied these to my Tech Info page as a permanent reference.

So, am I happy with my purchase?

Absolutely!  I have to say I’m delighted by it and the price does reflect the quality of the this model and in my opinion, well worth it.  I have seen pre-owned models for sale from £750 to £1400 dependent on condition.  This particular one is in MINT perfect condition and is absolutely in as new as you can get, so I’m well pleased and against the price range I quote here, I did VERY well on my recent trip in Europe.

I have 5 Longines models now and hoping next to perhaps increasing my Jaeger LeCoultre collection, so I’m looking.  But will I manage to procure one here in the UK at a decent price?  Well that is very debatable I have to say and becoming increasingly more difficult, so perhaps another trip is called for . . . . . . . . maybe.

Size and sense

I’m always somewhat amused  when I see watch size being discussed on forums, or to be more accurate, when someone asks if a watch size of say 34mm or 32mm is too small for a gents watch.  The answers generally range from “anything under 42mm is for wimps!” to more macho rubbish such as “you’re not a man if you wear anything under 45mm, sport!”.

My own particular argument is simple – a slim guy maybe 5’ 6” tall doesn’t go into a Tailor and come out wearing a jacket that’s a 44″ long – does he?  And he doesn’t look too good in those 46” waistband standard 33” length trousers either – does he?  Small feet?  Well size 12’s ain’t going to do it!

Of course not.  You get what fits – simple.

18ct Rose Gold Jaeger-LeCoultre at just under 34mm looks just fine.
18ct Rose Gold Jaeger-LeCoultre at just under 34mm looks just fine.

If you have a small wrist such as my own at 170mm circumference then you get a watch that fits comfortably and doesn’t look like someone who’s just lost 50lbs in weight on the latest diet fad.  For example my old PP Calatrava is just under 36mm and no-one has yet commented that it looks like a ladies watch and my 33mm Omega mid/small Constellation doesn’t seem to bother anyone.  My old Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre and my Movado all at 33mm or 34mm look just fine – (see the JL above).

In fact it in certain circumstances it can be a distinct advantage financially, as most of the top makers make ladies versions too (the aforementioned models are all gents models, by the way) and they are every bit the same as the larger gents models, but far neater and often far more affordable!  In fact I’m rather pleased that my wrists are not Neanderthal, but a sensible size and where the smaller sized watch is just about perfect.

Some say that if you want a sports model, this is tricky – but not so as a little bit of simple searching usually finds a few around that are not too big.  There are even plenty of “Dive” watches under 40mm and even with my small wrist I can manage up to 42mm, even 43mm if the case isn’t too deep – and still not look retarded!  To make the case I show the following images here of watches that are all under 40mm diameter and none of them look silly on my wrist, in fact they are perfectly sized.  Ashampoo_Snap_2013.05.03_23h35m27s_080_ Ashampoo_Snap_2013.05.03_23h34m34s_079_ Ashampoo_Snap_2013.05.03_23h33m41s_078_ Ashampoo_Snap_2013.05.03_23h32m29s_076_ Ashampoo_Snap_2013.05.03_23h33m08s_077_You’ll note that even Rolex are included in my image list.  And if you set the bracelets and straps to fit properly, so they don’t dangle the watch from the wrist these will fit the bill just fine.   So many folks can’t or won’t get the bracelets models adjusted, which is like getting a new car with leather seats and covering them with plastic sheet, then you sell the car and some other guy gets the thrill of those lovely seats – and you didn’t.  And I kid you not then I say I’ve seen some watches that are so loose they clatter against table tops during meals to others that slide down (or up) the wrists when driving.  They also turn around uncontrollably on the wrist, so much so that when you want to see the time, you can’t . . .

It’s so simple – if you have a small wrist, wear a small wristwatch to suit and be happy.

And (doh!) if you have large wrists – then fine, get a BIGGER watch . . . . you get the picture?  But don’t knock the rest of us . . .

Octagon from Russia

Featured this watch on “What’s on the wrist, this week” but thought I’d post it here as an update as it’s just that little bit unusual.

My Octagonal Russian Raketa
My Octagonal Russian Raketa

An unusual and stylized Raketa, made in USSR probably in the 1980s from the Petrodvorets Watch Factory in St. Petersburg.  This manufacturer started to produce their own movements and this brand name Raketa from around 1961/2, though the Company is in fact much older, starting life in 1721 under Peter the Great as the Peterhof Lapidary Works.  Such was the popularity of Raketa, they actually manufactured over 4.5 million watches a year even in the 1980’s and exported all over the world.

Unusual textured face and octagonal case, Day and Date watch.
Unusual textured face and octagonal case, Day and Date watch.

Now I’ve always liked Russian watches basically as they are really quite different from the Swiss mainstream, are often of unusual design and have that Russian lettering on the face – and not everyone has that!  And whilst they may at first glance appear a bit rough, in fact rough and ready some would say, certainly the vintage ones, they are often remarkably well made internally (certainly those from the better makers) and all the models I have keep remarkably good time.  They also represent extremely good value in comparison to many, especially when you consider these are mostly mechanical, not quartz.  In fact to buy a Swiss watch of the same mechanical quality it will cost you considerably more. A friend of mine used to say that most of his Russian watches looked like a pair of Levis – they were made to look “worn”.  His new Russian watches looked like his old Swiss ones after being in the cutlery drawer for a year or two!

But seriously, they may often look a little rough around the edges, but don’t be fooled – you want a good solid mechanical watch?  You could do a lot worse I assure you!

Why can't they all have this niche to get the back off?
Why can’t they all have this niche to get the back off?

This model features the  mechanical hand wound Raketa 19 jewel 2628.H movement, which keeps really excellent time.  In fact this is a feature common to many Russian models I’ve found over the years and watches from the old Soviet block were and are very much underrated.  The modern collections are somewhat better cosmetically I suppose, better access to quality metals and machine technology and so on, but the vintage mechanical ones for me are something special.

Raketa 19j 2628.H movement
Raketa 19j 2628.H movement

This model has a window @3 for the day and date, the latter adjusted by pulling out the spring loaded crown – each pull changes the date by one.  The day is set by moving the hands.  It also has a shock proof balance and dust protection case.

About one of the only negatives I’ve found with the older Russian watches are the straps and bracelets used.  I often, though not always, find them quite poor and so it was with this one,  the original bracelet was an inflexible steel strap affair that was very difficult to put on, being so stiff, and the clamp length adjuster virtually impossible to manage.  It was also one of the most uncomfortable straps I’ve ever worn.

The Raketa Octagonal (my name for it) - unusual, different - I wear it!
The Raketa Octagonal (my name for it) – unusual, different – I wear it!

So I fitted a simple black quality leather strap, which compliments the watch style nicely, matching the black colored top casing surface.  The case by the way is steel and the upper and lower lug areas have polished black inserts added to the top surface, as shown in the above image, which protect partly what looks like maybe a perspex glass box like octagonal shaped crystal.
The dial is composed of two different textures, one horizontal, the other vertical with applied gold colored square minute markers plus printed application numerals at 12 and 6, with a Day and Date window @3.  The hands are straight silver toned and the seconds sweep hand colored black.  It all works rather well funnily enough and the watch face is easy and very clear to read.

The watch back is a snap fit steel with a opening “niche” to make it easier to remove and a feature I wish others would emulate.

So all in all an excellent USSR made Raketa and one which I’m very pleased to have in my “Russian” box.  But it is also a watch I find myself wearing remarkably often as it does what it’s supposed to do very well.  It keeps VERY good time, it winds easily and firmly, it has a surprisingly good power reserve and it’s never let me down in all the years I’ve had it.

What more can I say?   Well it won’t be the last USSR watch I get – of that I am very sure!

Aktiv Skagen

This is the Titanium Aktiv Skagen Mesh SKW6007 Gents model.

The question has to be – Will it suit my purpose and is the quality good enough not to give me problems (or someone else if you “flip” it) over the next 5 years or so?  However when you consider that the average guy might change or buy a new watch anywhere from weekly to maybe a current “grail” one in 10 years, the issue of longevity is somewhat irrelevant.  OK if you spend thousands or indeed many thousands then the issue, question and answer will take care of itself!

Anyway this is about finding a modern thin dress watch at low/mid price, so choice wise almost inevitably quartz ( there are vintage mechanical ones around of course ).  So I looked and surprise, surprise, I did find a Skagen model that I like the look of and I feature it here.

Skagen Aktiv Titanium Day/Date Watch SKW6007
Skagen Aktiv Titanium Day/Date Watch SKW6007

I’ve seen them advertised of course and there are a few stockists around which is not too surprising as they’ve been about since 1989, marketing thin quartz watches in their “Denmark” style design, though in the past I’ve never taken to this rather thin minimalist look.  I tended to find the dials were rather bland and often too reflective for my personal taste, but if thin is what you want, then certainly they’re worth checking out.  Mid price models and the quality is average/good I’d say, though whilst I have no information on the Quartz movement in this model, I understand they feature within the range some Swiss movements and assemble them in the US.  However misinformation abounds, as I’ve also heard they use Asian movements and Far East assembly, so in short I really don’t know.  Interesting to me is the fact that Fossil have taken over Skagen Designs and already owning two Fossil watches myself, which I like and where the quality is just fine – this is encouraging.

Neat 2 screw fit bracelet. Note the small smooth crown.
Neat 2 screw per lug fit bracelet. Note the small and unfortunately smooth crown.

Nice size at 40mm diameter and only 7mm depth, so is certainly thin and sits flat on the wrist.  The case as described is Titanium, though when you fist pick it up you realize the mesh bracelet is Stainless Steel and a substantial one at that.  It is fully and easily adjustable and appears good quality.  The case design is rather neat with a faceted top bezel in alternate shiny and mat finish, the full width lugs are mat finish and the bracelet/band fits via two countersunk screws on each lug.  The watch is described as 50m Water Resistant and comes with hardened Mineral Glass.

Fits flat to the wrist
Fits flat to the wrist

The dial is a slightly brown grey color and reasonably mat and the outer minute index baton markers are applied luminous material with black outlines, including the numerals 12 and 6  – these are on a raised ring within the dial.  The inner part of the dial features another index ring as a narrow 1mm band in Orange background with black numbers as 05, 10, 15 and so on minute markers.  It’s actually quite a neat and clear feature.  The hour and minute hands are of thin straight chrome with luminous indents on each.  The center seconds hand is also chrome but with a 2mm long Orange tip and there is a Day and Date window @3 with black lettering against white.  The watch setting crown is also @3 inset into the watch case.  It is quite small I note and has no knurling so can be a little fiddly to turn, but manageable.  This model sets like most of this type – pull out to the first click and depending on which way you turn , moves the Day or the Date.  Pull out to the second position to set the hands.  So Instructions are hardly necessary.  However in saying that, Skagen have included an Instruction booklet, International Guarantee card with a Lifetime (limited) Warranty, Service Center location booklet and nice box and watch display pillow, so is rather better catered for than Fossil, who take a minimalist approach to information, rather than product!   I mention Fossil as they own Skagen Designs now.  Fossil take note.

Full compliment of booklets, Warranty Card and box
Full compliment of booklets, Warranty Card and box

I took a few images of this model which highlight the fact that build quality appears reasonable, though whether I’ll personally adapt to a mesh strap is unknown – The last mesh I had was not a success comfort wise, so time will tell with this one.  Further on the “Lifetime Warranty” – I note this does not cover the glass or the bracelet, nor the battery.

Neat dress watch at 40mm x 8mm
Neat dress watch at 40mm x 8mm

Any downsides?

I suppose the fact the bracelet is NOT Titanium is a pity as I expected the whole thing to be Ti and lightweight. (my Breitling Aerospace has a Titanium case and bracelet and for for 15 years the bracelet’s become smoother over time and is simply the most comfortable one I have).

Mesh Stainless Steel bracelet and easy adjust clasp with fold-over lock.
Mesh Stainless Steel bracelet and easy adjust clasp with fold-over lock.
Good quality locking clasp - full adjustable.
Good quality locking clasp – full adjustable.

Of course time will tell if this is a good purchase, but it seems to look the part and has not disappointed in the flesh as it were.  I did spot another model that might be of interest, but thinking on it further, for me anyway – I just have this feeling that maybe one Skagen is enough.  Don’t get me wrong, I like it but this minimalist Danish inspired design still doesn’t really do it for me and maybe this is a fault of their success – the models are all very “similar” and have this unmistakable family look – and well I’m not so sure.  Maybe variety is needed somewhere along the way – but that’s such a personal thing, it’s probably just me.

But for me, one Skagen in the stable – this is fine and I’m sure I’ll be pleased with it, as a dress watch – on occasion.

UPDATE – 1st May 2013

Been wearing the watch for a few weeks now and have to say I am surprisingly delighted with it.  It IS comfortable to wear and it does look good.  Perhaps the dial also has something to say about that.  It is a little unusual I suppose when compared with other Skagen models in that it has a neat and clear color scheme, is not reflective and to my surprise the luminous hands can be seen at night.  Many of these models with very thin hands and commensurately narrow luminous paint, fall down in this respect.  So I’m very happy with my eventual choice.

I just might consider another Skagen, but I’ll take the same care over selection as I did on this one as it’s all too easy to get a thin handed, reflective dialed, low contrast model with very poor legibility – but avoid those negatives and you could be very surprised and pleased.    I know I am . . . .

Aerospace favourite

Thought I’d re-post this after 20 years of ownership (first Posted in 2013, bought in 1999 or 2000) in reference my Breitling Aerospace (Repetition Minutes) model as a reminder of how good this old watch was and still is.

Just realised the other day that I’ve never actually posted about my favourite daily beater I’ve worn for the last 15 years.  My Breitling Aerospace Titanium I bought when on a business trip to Glasgow (Scotland).  After some lunch I happened to be strolling past a jewellers and there it was and I simply loved it – went in with no hesitation and bought it.  And I still think it was and still is the best and most practical watch purchase I ever made.

1999 Aerospace - a classic
1999? Aerospace (Repetition Minutes) – a single crown chronograph classic

Now some folks think Breitling watches are big, flashy and cumbersome, but with this model nothing could be further from the truth.  It’s titanium, it’s very light and unlike many of today’s current crop, it’s very slim at just 9mm in depth and a case diameter of only 40mm.  With the matching titanium solid link bracelet it’s quite a combination.   It slips unobtrusively under a shirt for dress occasions but also is the business when it comes to everyday wear – AND it’s probably a statement too.  This particular version has a quite subtle dial green colour with high contrast numerals and markers.

On the wrist - perfect. After 15 years it needs a clean!!
Taken today – On the wrist – perfect.  After 15 years it needs a clean!!

Dial wise – Clarity is all with this watch – the date is the clearest to read of any watch I know with an excellent anti-reflection coated flat sapphire crystal – and slim hands with the so very clever counter balance extension of the minute hand over the centre pivot, which makes it so clear when reading the time – plus a nigh on perfect and understated luminous capability at night – it’s about as good as any watch can get in my opinion.  The top bezel is click set in two directions and is Titanium as the rest of the watch ensemble. ( Yikes! – these darned close ups – just noticed how dirty it is after 15 years of almost continuous wear ).

Titanium at it's best case and solid link (diver extendable) bracelet.
Titanium at it’s best case and solid link (diver extendable) bracelet.

The twin digital display is perhaps one of the clearest I’ve ever seen.  It is bright in all light conditions and has a built in fluorescence that makes the numerals stand out perfectly.  The lower double height digital display shows everything you need – either set as shown with Day and Date, Date and Seconds, or Seconds, Alarm time, Chronograph, Current or Dual Time and Timer – the upper display shows which feature is set.  I usually have it set as shown with Day and Date and rarely use the other features, though the Dual Time can be useful on holiday as can the Alarm though these days I prefer a vibration alarm however – as the old hearing is going!

And this particular version is also what’s called a “repetition minutes” – this provides a sonic indication of the hours and minutes simply by pressing on the crown, when the watch display is either showing the neutral (blank digitals) or the local time display, the seconds-date display or the day-date position.  Great when I bought it, but these days I don’t hear too well, so not such a great use for me now.  😦

Another aspect of this watch is the fact that even with all these functions, it only has a single crown, the operation of which has always been perfect.  The usual chronograph style pushers and buttons are quite superfluous and is the feature I prefer most over all other chronograph models.
All this is due to the quartz movement used in this model – the E10.391, 7 jewels and it’s managed to perform without a hitch for all this time. I understand the movement can be updated, though at a fair cost I believe and possibly with a replacement back as dimensionally the replacement is slightly thicker – though fortunately quite unnecessary in my case.

I said that clarity was terrific on this watch and this is it shown against some of my other models as a comparison –

The clearest of them all!
I think the Breitling (left) – is the clearest of them all!

The Breitling on the left shows just how good the anti-reflection coating is and how clever the hands/display clarity actually is and note how the digits stand out – it always impresses me!  The Citizen Attesa in the centre another favourite  is also pretty good but none can compare when doing the quick glance and reading the date.

Another good point about this Aerospace – it’s actually gone up in value – so a good buy and a good investment.  Not that I’ll realise any profit of course ‘cos it ain’t for sale!  The profit for me is the sheer pleasure of wearing what has to be my favourite watch.

However, as with everything, there’s always something I find annoying.  With this watch, if it needs a battery change  (shown by the digits flashing), which on this model is well over 5 years I’ve found, Breitling recommend sending it to them.  But this is expensive, though in fairness I did this the first time it needed a battery and they changed the face and whatever else, cleaned it and so on, so perhaps was worth it.
But today (yesterday actually 10/05/2020) I simply snapped off the back, changed out the 977 battery, ensured the back was replaced with the correct positioning of the round depression inside the back plate above the battery, snapped the back on again, then reset the date, month, day, time etc.

And that is my annoyance.  The fact that the single crown is a b*****d to operate.  Months adjust with a fast spin of the crown as do some other adjustments, others are with a slow turn and frankly the fast spin is very, very difficult to manage. This is down with the crown out, but it come out very little, so not much to grip – it is just a fiddly thing to do – and I hate it!

Fortunately I shouldn’t have to do it again for at least 5 years, so that’s the good part. Leap years have to be accounted for, but OK I can live with that.

But overall, this is still the best watch I’ve ever had, it’s time keeping is excellent, it reads so easily and it has more features on it than I’ll ever need, that are so well hidden within it, it is a wonderful design and Breitling have in my opinion not bettered it – not even close!

 

Day/Date affordables

When looking for affordable everyday analogue watches I always try and find features that make life easier.  OK you get a model that tells you the time, but so useful on an everyday basis to be able to see the Day and the Date.  Probably nothing else is near as important as these useful features.  Here I’ve posted 3 models that caught my eye as fulfilling that day/date function and at an affordable cost.

First up – is the Swatch Black Rebel – a true “designer” watch no less and under £50.00.

Swatch Black "Rebel" designer Day Date.
Swatch Black “Rebel” designer Day Date.

A neat sized gents model at 41mm diameter and 12mm depth, rubber strap and a resin case.  Day and Date window @3 orange highlighted and the bonus of luminous hour and minute hands and a center seconds.  Swiss Quartz movement.

A Casio Collection Quartz model at a very low price follows – also Day and Date window @3, outer bezel with minuted markings, large dot markers and infill hands plus center seconds.  Means a nice clear watch to read in most light.  Also a god size at 42mm diameter and 12mm depth plus a real bonus of 100m Water Resistance.  Price wise I’ve seen this for around £16.00 which is amazing.

Casio Collection Gents Day date
Casio Collection Gents Day date

Not to be outdone Timex also have this model Quartz analogue Day and date window @3, black hands against white, good contrast and very legible, red center seconds hand.  Water Resistance at 30m pretty decent too and at around £30.00 is again really good value.

Timex Quartz Analogue T20041
Timex Quartz Analogue T20041

So it really is possible to get yourself pretty decent quality watches with the added features of Day and Date at very reasonable cost, without going to the extremes of unknown or obscure makes with perhaps less than confident service issues.  The main players have it well in hand and can provide a decent priced alternative to the cheap digitals on the market.  It’s sometime nice to see a simple clock face and hands, a day and a date – all without pressing buttons – plus these can be seen more easily that most when propped up on the bedside cabinet.  And there are quite a few others around if you check them out.  The trouble with these guys is that for everyday use it’s difficult to see past them – and for a watch collector that’s bad news!!!  Great watches for holidays or indeed for life . . . . . .

Note the Swatch is splash resistant only.