Something about vintage – Lord Elgin

The main reason I collect vintage watches is simply because of their look. And yes, generally they are smaller than today, but not to be confused with ladies models, which when these were produced were very much smaller. But that doesn’t mean they look feminine on a gent’s wrist, not at all, but it does mean that they are amazingly comfortable and to my mind, look great.

Take this 1947 Lord Elgin, which is not quite as old as I am, but at 76 years old it is still working perfectly, keeps reasonable time and has a power reserve that lasts easily from day to day.

This model has the 21 jewel Cal. 670 manual wind movement, adjusted to 3 positions.

It has a lovely copper dial with gold hour and minute hands, plus a sub-seconds dial @6 also with a gold seconds pointer. A minute index is nicely configured around the dial and the detail is really very good indeed.

This model also has wonderful fully articulated “fancy” lugs (a cute and correct quaint term of the day) with nice engraved work at the case ends. The watch is in a Wandsworth Gold Filled case and the entire look is excellent, as is the condition.

Note the “adjusted in 3 positions” – this means that when produced, it actually had an accuracy goal right from the start.
Many watches are not adjusted at all for accuracy, but for these vintage watches it was a good thing. Different levels of accuracies could be graded, such as 2 positions or 5 positions and this means simply that the watch was tested (duh!) in different positions, such as crown down, crown up and so on. Because wearing on a wrist, the watch ends up in many different positions, so it shows an attempt has been made right from the start, to minimise inaccuracy from a positional point of view at least.

There are actually two other main factors affecting accuracy, such as temperature and then the mainspring effect, or “isochronism”, which is caused by the spring unwinding as it runs. For example it might be 2 or 3 seconds fast in the morning, but later in the day maybe 3 or 4 times that. So to try and regulate that “rate” is another way of improving accuracy.

But this watch at least has had some positional adjustments carried out, which is a good indicator of decent quality movement wise.

However, the main point of this Post is much more basic.

I simply wanted to show how good a true vintage sized watch can look on a gents wrist (the gent being me!) 😉 and I think it looks great and it wears great, which was and is still the main reason for my vintage watch collecting.

Note – The dimensions of the watch are 21mm across (add 1mm for the crown) x 45mm total lug to lug including articulation (the case is actually 27mm lug to lug) and the curved case is approximately 7mm thickness including the high domed crystal, which is a feature on many vintage watches of this period.

I’m going to do a few more of the vintage watch Posts, since I re-organised my watch storage ideas recently. I have a pile of leather strapped models waiting to be re-located in new cabinets and I’m cataloguing them too, so they are to hand.

Divers – Part 2

I feature another cost effective Diver’s watch, this time from Rotate North. A relatively new Brand based in Belfast, who offer cost effective dive capable models for tough duty, coupled with general day wear.

My preferred model is the Atlantic model which has a 300m Water Resistance rating, so more than enough for the casual scuba diver. The watch also isn’t too large in diameter or thickness which is always a consideration for me. It then doesn’t look out of place if used for every day use.

I like that the dial is relatively uncluttered, uses Super-lumiNova on hands and markers, a date window @3, sapphire crystal and a well formed protected screw down crown. It also features a unidirectional bezel with luminous datum and a solid stainless steel case. It has been knurled sufficiently so turning it is relatively easy, which is quite important and often overlooked by folks looking at watches for diving.
In standard form it appears to comes with an unusual rubber 20mm wide NATO style watch strap. The watch is produced in Germany.
The movement is the well respected Seiko NH35A, 24 jewel Automatic movement with 41hr power reserve and has a centre sweep seconds hand with luminous dot.

The choice of this movement is a good one, as it’s a typical Seiko work horse movement, very popular in the range, with good accuracy and reliability and it can also be hand wound.

Watch dimensions are around 41mm width (46mm incl. crown), which is a sensible and manageable size and the case is 15mm thickness, so a strong solid watch.

Rotate North have two other dive style models –

The Arctic – with a 500m rating, slightly larger at 43mm diameter (48mm incl. crown) and thicker case at 16mm, and an unshrouded crown is @4. My preference is a protected or ‘shrouded’ crown. The case is also thicker so could be a bit chunky for everyday wear.

The Tempest – similar size to the Atlantic but with unshrouded crown @3 and it has an additional 24hr index on the dial . My preference is without 24hr index, as it adds dial clutter and again I prefer a shrouded crown.

A note on Bezel knurling –

Citizen **BN0000.04 Eco-Drive** 300m Diver. Compact and does what it says! With great bezel numerals makes for absolute clarity.

Take my Seiko 5 Sports Edition model – looks great in most aspects and yes, can certainly be used for diving, but if for scuba-diving, then knowing how much air time you have left is fairly important. And the bezel knurling on the Sports 5 is not well defined enough to make it easy to set, it’s just too smooth.
Maybe a bit picky, but I’m just saying . . . . . Great watch for a bit of snorkelling and general swimming if you don’t really need the bezel feature.

An oldie but goodie is the Citizen BN0000.04 Diver’s model is a classic I’ve had for a few years now. An Eco-Drive movement with Date @3 and with an after market silicon deployment strap.
I love this model as it’s the most compact Diver model I’ve ever seen. It is rated at 300m Water Resistance and features a unique shaped mould like satin finished steel case and well shrouded crown. On top a great contrasting large numeral unidirectional bezel with good knurling so is easy to turn.

Citizen solid sealed body Diver. Note shrouded crown.

Needless to say as it’s Eco-Drive, it’s fully automatic and powered by Solar, so pretty much goes on forever. The dial is very clear to read, with large and very luminous hour and minute hand plus a sweep seconds with luminous dot. The hour markers are also large, well defined and very luminous. In fact the luminous quality of this model is exceptional which is perfect for this relatively small dial.

This is what I call a no nonsense watch. Very well constructed, smooth and sleek on the wrist and very tough indeed. Case dimensions are around 40mm width (43mm incl. crown) and only around 11mm thick at most – as I say, a very neat watch – and the reason I got it in the first place. In fact, it is a brilliant compact Diver and again and this time from Citizen, a model that is just right.

So if small and perfectly formed is your thing – then this is your watch.

Is it still made currently? – I have no idea, but it should be, because it’s very, very good.

Basic time

I’ve entitled this Post “Basic time” as this is what these quartz watches show off rather well – AND in the case of a couple of them – basic money as well! And I mean cheap!

The first and one of the cheapest is the Shengke Creative watch – at under £5.00! Bright and cheerful and very minimalist, bright yellow plastic flexible strap with pin buckle.

Shengke Creative on the wrist – for under a £5.00 note

The dial is a matt black disk with a contrasting white window showing the hours. Minutes are indicated with a hand or pointer and that’s it. No second hand, so you won’t be timing anything with this, but that’s not the point – it simply shows you the rough time, at a glance, which is about as simple as it gets.

Arguably even more basic is the next one, again at around the same pricing. This is called minimalist, which I’d have to agree with.

Gone are any numerals, being replaced with a simple hour indication black Dot on a revolving disk plus the black pointer minute hand

However, if you want to easily see if the watch is actually working, then a second hand is very useful.

This next model is the TID from Sweden. No disks this time, but more conventional with hour, minute and a centre seconds hand PLUS it has the usual clock face with numerals and so on. But again it is easy to read, simple and tells you the time. Price wise though, not quite as minimalist at around £160.

At a lower price than the TID, you might have (or could, as it’s not a current model now) opted for one of my particular favourites –

the Rolf Cremer Bogen watch from Germany. This is quite minimalist AND rather stylish. It is also the one model here with maximum information on the dial coupled with incredible simplicity.
Conventional Hour, minute and centre seconds hands, PLUS a Date window @12, but this is a large double date, which is amazing in such a compact watch and at around £130 when I bought it some years ago – I love it.

My preferred two are the Rolf Cremer, as it fulfils the minimal look with the most information and for me the best style. Second choice is the Shengke Creative as it’s bright, very clear to read at a quick glance and I’ve had this for 3 years (got it from a friend) and as cheap as it was, it’s still working just fine today, without any issues at all.

Since checking out some of the minimalist, handed and disk watches, one thing does stand out.

Often they are NOT that easy to read “at a glance”, which for me rather defeats the object. Sometimes you can be too minimum or try to depict the passage of time is a shorthand manner, that just doesn’t work.

But the ones featured here seem to manage that trick pretty well and at really low prices, definitely not to be ignored.

Note – the Rolf Cremer Bogen I bought a few years ago and looking at their current range I don’t see it or another big date watch, which is a shame. It was certainly a winner for me. I also note – how could I not – the prices today are way up on just a few years ago.

Divers part 1 – Quartz or Auto?

And that’s the thing with Diver’s watches – they look darned good at the poolside or even at the dinner table and maybe if you’ve bought clever – in the Sea too.

Often they’re oversize or at least the hands and numerals are broad and bright too. Hopefully they glow bright in the dark (or should do) of solid construction and will shrug off damage and it goes without saying, they MUST be water resistant to hundreds of meters depth? Or do they?

Back in the day when I used to scuba dive, the deepest I got down to was around 30 odd meters and even then, rarely, and this when I was much younger and my lungs still worked! 😉 Much deeper than that, you were into decompression territory, which was not my game at all.

So the first question is – What depth rating do you really need on your Diver’s watch? I mean, I’ve seen a few that manage many, many hundreds of meters and no, you don’t need one of those, as these are really specialist devices and a bit more than a scuba holiday, splash around the pool watch.

For light recreational diving I reckon (my opinion) a decent dive model should have a minimum of 100m, though my preference would be 200m. These will easily take care of most recreational dives and the odd nut. They will certainly allow pool work and the odd sea adventure for the non professional.

The second question is – Mechanical or Quartz – my opinion is – either.

One of my favourites is my old Apeks Professional 200 AP0406 (quartz) – it’s proved itself for years personally in scuba situations – It was very inexpensive and has never let me down.

Apeks AP0406 Mens 200m Professional Dive Watch

Great luminosity, very clear to read above and below and it’s a very neat watch too.
Note – the knurling on the bezel is serious, nice and figured and easy to grip. The bezel is unidirectional, well lettered and with good contrast, so you can easily estimate how much tank time you’ve got left.

Battery life is around 3 years and luminous dial qualities are excellent (note – I have more in depth – pardon the pun – Posts on this watch somewhere on the site)

So, how do you figure when the battery is about to die on you is to use common sense. I swap my battery every 2 and a half years IF I’m using the watch as intended. If I’m using it simply as a daily beater, as I do with the Apeks, then every 3 years, before it stops – it’s not a matter of life and death.

For me, these days and basically as a daily wear watch, Quartz has it’s attractions, price of course being the main one, because this watch was really NOT expensive for what you get. And for my scuba diving, such as it was, it has proved itself time and time again.

However, if I wanted an alternative to quartz, I’d have to definitely consider as my very first Automatic movement Dive watch choice – I’d definitely (and I have long ago) pick out the Seiko.

Specifically, the Seiko Orange Monster, which is another VERY popular recreational diver model which I also own and use.

It features an Automatic (not quartz) movement and basically as long as I’m moving my arm occasionally, my Orange Monster ticks along just fine. My Monster is a Mk 1 and features the 21 jewel mechanical automatic Seiko 7S26 movement and with the additional Day and Date window shows it’s versatility as a daily wear and for me the day/date is useful, as being long retired I rarely know what day it is! The day and date are easily altered on the first click of the crown. This movement is non-hacking (in other words when you pull out the crown the seconds hand keeps going, as opposed to stopping the seconds hand on say 12, for precise time adjustment). For me I prefer non-hacking which may actually add to reliability and the 7S26 is without doubt, a VERY reliable movement.

Note the Monster also has a very efficient auto winding (rotor) mechanism and if you haven’t worn the watch for a while, it basically only requires you to waggle it in a horizontal manner a minute or two, wear it and it’s pretty much set for the day. Fully wound it easily manages more than 40 hours. In practice my one here managed 45hours! A really great practical watch.

Seiko Diver (Orange Monster) Mk 1 – When they made this one, they got it just right!

Later models (Mk 2) feature (12 years after mine) the 24 jewel Cal 4R36 auto movement could be manually wound and I understand the Mk 3 had a 6R15 movement with increased power reserve of 50hrs. Apart from these changes, the Monster has only received minor cosmetic alterations since it first came out over 2o years ago – a testament to a model that got it absolutely right first time.

I certainly like the Monster as it’s VERY bright, so good to read underwater and low light and is built like the proverbial brick outhouse! Big heavily figured bezel, large clear dial, great luminosity and solid construction, make this a very, very popular choice for many.

For me either of the two models featured here would probably still be my starter model if looking for a versatile day/diver watch or even taking diving just a tad more seriously.
They both do what they say very well, be it Seiko quartz or Seiko automatic, as both movements are very reliable and difficult to beat and regardless if your first diver or not, these two will last a lifetime and more.

Now I know some folks will say I have featured these before and that is true. But there are watches that for many reasons have proved to be so right, it’s always worth introducing them to new audiences. So no apologies from me.

But there are many others out there these days and maybe I’ll find another one that manages to get the basics right.

And that’s important – and not always the case, so I’m hoping there are more around and if so I’ll feature it or them on a future Divers Part 2.

J&T Windmills – update

My collection has grown somewhat since getting this particular watch, which I see is still being produced today. This is the J&T Windmills Threadneedle model 10004/01 with hand wound 17 jewel adjusted movement. I understand the movement is the Swiss Sellita SW200, in their own hallmarked Sterling Silver case.

I understand the Dreyfuss Group, owned by China Haidian, are the owners of the Brand name now, though I’m not sure if that was the case when I bought this one back in 2009.

The Windmills "Threadneedle" — The Windmills “Threadneedle” manual wind, sterling silver cased.

It is in fact a rather stylish watch, harking back to the days of the original J&T Windmills of London pocket watches, reflecting the dial styles of the originals. The dial states “made in England” as opposed to “assembled in England”, though it seems barely relevant these days as so many components have varied and tortuous sources. Suffice to say it’s a Swiss movement and the whole watch is assembled in the UK.

Certainly the J&T Windmills watch looks pretty decent, especially with the nicely rounded gleam of a Sterling Silver case and those singular articulated lugs and offset ‘onion’ crown @ 2. (my personal preference would be straight spring bars).

The shape of the case itself is both sophisticated and elegantly slim (7mm) with beautifully rounded and polished sides. The description “sophisticated” is evidenced by the fully decorated back, taken from the original Windmills engravings of old. Quite striking actually and subtle in that it’s hidden from sight to all but the wearer.

Decorated back with individual watch number

The original WI "Windmills" Sterling silver hallmark. — The original WI “Windmills” Sterling silver hallmark.

The dial is classic pocketwatch or clock style, so reflecting the origins of the Company it is honouring.

I like the overall look of the dial face with long and dark fine shaped hour and minute hands and a I do like a fine overhung centre sweep seconds hand.
Both minute and second hands align and meet the first inner curve of the numeral markers perfectly. The hour hand meets perfectly the inner edge of the roman numerals, thus making a precise reading of the time assured. This, I really do like – and such a simple feature that many manufacturers could and should take the trouble to emulate.
Slightly elongated Roman numerals in black and a neat date aperture @6, which is large enough to give clarity without compromising the elegance of the whole, complete the frontage of this very stylish watch. I note in the current model, the date window is @3.

Back to the Made in England reference.

To have the nomenclature “made in” or “X made” is basically a matter of where, what and how. And importantly how much of the where, what and how is in the Country so defined.
Here in the UK the Trades Description Act requires certain parameters to have been met – namely “… goods shall be deemed to have been manufactured or produced in the country in which they last underwent a treatment or process resulting in a substantial change”.

And in this case a judication was actually made a year or so ago and these are some of the facts disclosed.

Quote –
The J&T here is designed in the United Kingdom – in London. Prototypes are developed in China and subsequent samples are refined in their Essex, England facility.
The movement is sourced from Switzerland movement – this is a “raw” movement set where a complete set of the components of a watch of which all or part of the components are not assembled or partly assembled (marketed in this form). In the case of this particular mechanical display movement the dial and hands are not included.
The watches are assembled and quality controlled by specialist watchmakers at the UK assembly facility. J&T watchmakers decorate the movement with bespoke Windmills “plates”, which is a manually intensive task, seat the dial on the movement and fix and set the watch hands in a careful and time consuming process.

Deployment engraved "Windmills" — Double deployment engraved “Windmills”

After testing the full “casing up” (assembly) process is undertaken where watchmakers insert the movement into the case, fit the crown to the stem and wind the watch fully, and after a further 48-hour testing process they approve the watch for packaging and despatch.

So, as the value of components sourced abroad is only 34% of the ex-works price, value-wise the watch can genuinely be described as “Made in England” and as said, there are a few Swiss Mades that might be in a similar position if challenged.
It is true that the British Horological Federation (BHF) confirmed that the use of foreign movements was common practice in the watch and clock trade, and that labour and parts would provide substantial added value to the final product.

So a British watch promoting British heritage, re-launched if you will and named in honour of the revered watch and Clock making family J&T Windmills of the 19th century. A tried and tested trend used by a few others – and not a bad result.

Perfect addition to my collection. — Nice addition to my collection.

The watch included a fine patent leather and a deployment fitting. The strap was not overlong as too many are today and with watch dimensions of just 38mm diameter and an approximate 7.5mm depth (the sapphire crystal is slightly domed). It is slim and neat to wear and will easily slide under a sleeve.

On the wrist - perfect! — On the wrist – perfect!

Accuracy is commensurate with Swiss quartz, so no surprises there.

My only real issue is with the deployment buckle, which though in keeping with the watch style, signed and so on, is a double deployment fitting, which I personally find very fiddly. A single deployment for me would have been so much more practical. The deployment advantage? – it’s said that it protects the strap from premature wear and that maybe true, but for me a simple pin buckle strap will with wear, mould itself to your wrist and I much prefer that any day. Anyway, this one is quite comfortable (once you get it on, that is . . .).

However –

I remember not long after getting the watch, as I was winding it, the crown and stem simply fell off into my hand! Disaster! Not what I expected at all.

Made me doubt both the assembly procedure and their Quality Control and I was very disappointed. So, after emailing them, I sent it back under guarantee and rather than a repair, I was sent a replacement (different number). Very commendable I hear you say, but why did it take them 11 weeks before replacing it, which with my pessimistic nature, to me smacked of lead times from – perhaps China? OR – optimistically, perhaps just a very busy newish Brand company, who knows?

However, this replacement watch has performed exactly as it should, no issues at all and overall I’m pleased with it.

But that double deployment, though very nice and shiny as it is, is still a real pain to get the watch on your wrist. So, as the strap is actually a fine leather one, I have modified it to take a simple pin buckle. I removed the deployment, notched the short watch head end which allowed me to fit a polished stainless 14mm buckle with it’s spring bar and it is now perfect. It feels so much better, the watch/strap lies flatter on the wrist – in short – to my mind they would be better not bothering with that particular deployment. The watch to my mind has suddenly showed a proper classic style that wasn’t quite right before, but is now.

It will now be on my short rotation wrist wear plan (I have some 200 watches in my collection and I rotate wearing them), instead of just now and again, as at last it feels right.

So, overall I like the watch now with the quality strap is, for me, used as it should be. The watch functions as it should, it’s very nice to wear and regardless of where it’s made, assembled or whatever – I like it and its proved (after a slight hitch) itself to be a decent buy.

My Tissot Two Timer

Interesting watch, the Tissot Two Timer and this one dated to mid 1980’s and by the number of different configurations, this Tissot model reflects both the Swatch ideals and the new Asian digital reality of the time, but in their own style. I actually have another Two Timer model that I may Post at a later date, but I Post this one first as it’s quite a rare one. The TTT (as I call them) models were relatively new tech for the time, as they were Ana-Digi models with an unusual feature of using just a single multi-functional crown. The control module sets and adjusts the analogue time and the digital functions, which indicate in the single line digital display.

Tissot Two Timer 1980’s Analogue/Digital Alarm/chrono (note – Alarm is shown as set)

The (adjustable) digital functions featured are; Digital Time, Seconds & Date, Weekday & Date (auto-calendar), Timer, 2nd Time Zone, Chronograph and, Alarm. Each is selected and adjusted by the single crown, which is still today a bit of a rarity. Analogue and digital can be synchronised too and the digital display can also be switched OFF.
I have just a few models that utilise single crown multifunctionality apart from the Two Timers. One that immediately comes to mind is my 1999 Breitling Aerospace, which may well use the same module. So, this very affordable 40 year old vintage watch, is in very good company.

And the single crown system is very good. Basically there are 3 positions. Press the crown IN (spring action) it selects function changes and also switches the Alarm on or off. Crown position A (normal) rotates either way and moves the line marker under the digits to select the required function. Position B – (one click OUT) is used to alter or select the digits on the function selected – then again rotate the crown in either direction. Note that speed of rotation moves either the hours (fast) or the minutes (slow) and so on, or month, day and date etc.

Anyway, on this Two Timer, all functions operate flawlessly and the digital display is as good as it gets with no bleeding or fading, which is a real bonus on any vintage Adigital watch with a digital display (a weakness of early digitals).

Image shows a Tissot Two Timers collection for sale in 2007

However, the main reason for my interest in this particular 1980’s – 1990’s Tissot Two Timer model is because of it’s rarity.

And this is totally owing to it’s colourful and rather funky overlay dial layout.
A fact that’s very obvious by it’s absence in this great picture of a fabulous Tissot Two Timer collection offered for sale some years ago.

Whilst I’ve also seen many variations on the theme with around 20 different 1st generation of the Two Timer up to maybe 1995, plus more variations with the 2nd generation models – I’ve only seen this particular one once before and as these pre-owned models change ownership every so often – who knows, maybe this is the one?

Update – I have actually seen one for sale in Singapore since I Posted this.

For anyone interested in Tissot Two Timer models, there are a few (and just a few) of pre-owned ones around, mostly the more common dial layouts, such as the vertical striped face or skeleton, which seem popular. However, fully working pre-owned ones are very much more scarce.

Note the small battery hatch – similar to Swatch – very neat.

As said, this particular model is a rather colourful and quirky dial layout with thick white coloured (I call loony) hands plus an overlay of quite jazzy numerals and markers – I love its different look from the many others I’ve seen. So I’m very pleased to have it. Plus, it has the original stitched leather strap as well and whilst obviously worn, it’s still OK to wear. However, I do have another strap I obtained recently if and when this one gives up. I note later versions have moved from leather to rubber straps – which doesn’t do it for me I’m afraid

The watch is quartz powered and the battery is accessible via a battery hatch on the rear (see image). And the all important crown is well knurled which makes it easier to turn for adjustments.
Watch dimension are really good at around 28mm width (add crown just under 30mm) and the case thickness is very neat at just 7mm. The case is also curved with a flat back, so looks very neat on the wrist.

ETA 958-333 7 jewel module (available), but unknown if it would be a replacement.

So, as often the case, I find many vintage models preferable for all sorts of reasons – and fortunately, as said, they can still be found – and can be (but not always) at reasonable prices.

A little unsure as to the movement module used in this Two Timer, but it appears to be a variation of, or similar to, the ETA 988.332 module in my Breitling Aerospace. Perhaps the ETA 958.300 series with one digital window.

The module is part of the Swiss ETA Flatline series and information can be found online. However, little information appears available since 2009, but I have seen complete 958-333 modules , but I would not assume these can be used as a replacement.

A few other watch brands have utilised the ETA Flatline series of modules in addition to Breitling, such as Bell & Ross, Rado, Victorinox Chrono and Butler, so obviously well regarded.

2 x Two Timers, same model, different year.
Strap, buckle and dial cosmetic change.

The Tissot Two Timer was never an expensive model, but it was in my view an important one as it not only competed, but matched Asian competition at that time. Along with the introduction of the new Swatch Brand (Tissot being a founder member) this offered a proper well established quality Swiss Brand to customers at a crisis time in the European (Swiss watch) Industry.

So, to Tissot – Founded in 1853 in Le Locle in Switzerland, then allied to Omega – becoming the Omega Tissot Brand from around 1929. They further expanded with the amalgamation in 1983 of what was known as the SSIH-ASUAG & SMH (the Swiss names are too long winded for me to spell out) and finally SMH became a new Group known as the Swatch Group. Today, of course a huge player in the watch industry, with a membership of many major and still independent Swiss Brands, such as Tissot themselves of course.

Anyway, that’s my funky Tissot Two Timer and I love it, both for it’s 1980’s modernist design and to my mind, under-stated place in the watch world and the fact that on the wrist, it just looks great!

I also show here in this image, my other Tissot Two Timer model. This is another D.377 model, not the same year, with another dial layout, strap and buckle and a different look. Note – Later versions of the D. series have an altered case and lug design which necessitates a completely different strap, often rubber. Also the battery hatch is no longer there so the back has to be unscrewed to replace the battery.

Note 1 – Instructions are available here – https://www.manualslib.com/download/863198/Tissot-Twotimer.

Note 2 – Two Timer modules feature an auto-calendar, though this year (2024) being a leap year, with 29 days in February, I manually changed the date accordingly. Fortunately this is very, very easy to change.

Back in the day

A revisited Post I did many moons ago, which was itself a revised Post from much earlier times, of an auction many years ago, when my watch collecting was still something new. And I’m Posting it here just as a reminder of the fun auction and watch collecting can be, even if you’re not mega rich, but you do have hopefully within your position in life, some modest goals and dreams.

Well, it was one of those days where you manage to do what you said you’d never do – and that’s impulse bidding at an auction. I mean there you are zeroing in on that little vintage model you’ve been after for ages, the estimate is just about do-able and you’ve got the cash in your pocket and Bam! Just your luck!

The bids are all of a sudden thick and fast, jumping between 5 or 6 damned phone lines and the floor bidders have suddenly woken up, to say the least – through the roof in fact and so far above your budget (stratospheric actually!) that you feel really quite inadequate – and completely out of your league. And before you know it, your day, so full of expectations is no more. Gone in a flash of someone else’s money and your item well out of reach – and just a silly, naive dream, as if . . . .

And then, just as you were about to go off for a shell-shocked sulk and a cup of coffee, the next item’s up – it’s been added to the auction – and, Hello? one that you’d never even noticed, such was your tunnel vision towards the previous one – and suddenly there’s this absolute gem – it’s there – right in front of you. . . . .

Wow! – I’ve been looking for any one of HIS – for ages! And the estimate is what? That’s not too bad you know – just maybe I could wing it and swing it! Then you think – oh oh, what’s wrong with it? Maybe it’s a “come and buy me” estimate to lead you on . . But no time to check it out . . . damn . . . . just typical!

Nothing much said in the description and that estimate seems awfully low, so big decision – do I take the chance?

And looking around I don’t see that anybody else has spotted it either, after the excitement of the one I missed. Half of them are still talking about the last one – so maybe. just maybe they haven’t seen it. After all, it was sandwiched between a series of big names, and that’s what most of the Dealers here were obviously snapping up – to resell at inflated big City prices.
You know the usual Omegas and Rolex’s (are they really that good?) and then Tag and the Muller – you get my drift. The inflated name game. But this one is just, well, sitting there, an addition to the published catalogue and almost hidden by the weight of the buzz names – so maybe . . . just maybe . . . .

Sod it! – I’ll have a go – what’s to lose? And this is a true collector’s illness – well I didn’t get the lot I came for, so I’ve saved money, haven’t I? So as I say, what’s to lose?

Well the first bid is just plain silly, derisory really and after that, it just creeps up. This, of course, in itself can be deceiving as it could suddenly take off, but sometimes, just sometimes it bombs and maybe without a reserve somebody gets themselves a real bargain. And that’s my hope here. So, wary of that possibility I quickly jump in don’t I – I mean it’s the obvious thing to do – because – you never know . . . and then after just a few bids and before you know it – it’s all over and the auctioneer is looking at the buyer, saying SOLD to . . . . . and I’m looking around like an idiot – SOLD to – as I catch his eye – Yes! it is – That’s MY number! – as I fumble with my auction “paddle” which was stuck in my jacket, ripping the pocket as I struggled to get hold of it and hold it up!

Wow! This is just so brilliant. I’ve just paid – HOW MUCH? (I can still hear the echo from my Wife’s shriek!) for something NOT on the menu and the auction is carrying on as if it never happened. Is this a dream or what? And was that my bank manager at the back of the auction house? Smirking as he turned away? I’m sure it was . . . . I never knew he even went to auctions . . .!

Anyway – it was no dream and you might just wonder what on earth I bought after all this excitement. Well here’s a clue or two . . . .

The watch was designed and signed by a guy who was perhaps one the best designers of watches – ever. In 1966 he designed the Universal Geneve Golden shadow range of watches, then in 1972 designed the Audemars Piquet Royal Oak and in 1976 the Patek Philippe’s Nautilus, then cases and dials of the Omega’s Constellations and
Seamasters. So quite a pedigree! He also contributed to the designs for the Ingéneur, The Pasha Cartier and the 222 Vacheron Constantin, Piaget, Chopard, and so on and on . . . .

He had his own Watch Company from 1969 till 1998 and another from 2001 under a different name. All his watch models are quirky, unique and novel, very technical and high specification and often quite expensive. Octagonal cases he particularly liked and played around with, even producing a Mickey Mouse model or two just for fun.

My model is from circa 1995, so bang in the middle of his best production period – and it’s actually quite rare! There’s only a handful been sold at auctions in the last 10 years and this one changed hands twice before it got to me. I love it as it shows off his unique style and is a perfect introduction into the Genta world.

OK, the watch goes as soon as it’s touched – always a good sign. The quick date pusher works perfectly – OK. I also noted that I couldn’t figure out how to set the Alarm time tried the upper crown but without success. However managed to get instructions online and it was simple simple, so all OK. Read on further to find out how.

The case is in very good condition – a tiny dint in the sapphire glass – OK, a screw missing from the stainless steel back (should be six only 5) – OK and the original leather strap (with tolerable wear) and deployment is for a large wrist – OK. So, it all looks fixable . . . . . .Phew! Note – the missing screw has since been fitted.

So after all that – here are a few images of my impulse buy.

Gerald Genta Bartolomeo Stainless Automatic Alarm Calendar. — Gerald Genta Bartolomeo
Stainless Automatic Alarm Calendar.

Bartolomeo 40mm diameter Alarm on the wrist

So, this is a Gerald Genta Bartolomeo Alarm Calendar watch with slate dial, gold filled numerals and markers, gold hour, minute and seconds hands plus a GG logo in gold on the red tipped Alarm pointer, which is on a central disc.

The Alarm function is by a central rotating disk and operated and set by the secondary capped 3 position Crown at between 1 & 2 o’clock.

The watch has an automatic Omega Cal. 980 19 jewel movement, so no winding required.

The time is set by the main/centre crown @3.

The mechanical Alarm is activated by upper crown(between 1 & 2) when pulled out one click. With the upper crown pulled out two clicks, it disengages the main crown from the hour and minute hands, which allows the main crown to set/move the Alarm pointer hand (disc) – in either direction. Pushing in the upper crown, re-engages the main crown to the hour and minute hands, as normal.
The alarm is as I said, mechanical and the sound is produced by a small hammer striking a gong attached to the movement. It is what I would call (and Omega said this too) a discrete sound and rather nice in comparison to the modern digital ones.

The watch (although automatic) can also be manually wound using the main crown.

Also of note is the fact this Alarm does not require winding – this is done automatically with the normal auto movement (one winding barrel suffices) and is operational again within an hour in normal wearing.

This is almost the same as the Omega Memomatic which shares the same 980 movement. The difference being the Memomatic has a second disc on the dial which indicates minutes, which allows it uniquely to be set precisely to the minute.

The clearly defined dial layout features a large Date aperture between 3 & 4 o’clock and there is a small quick set date adjuster, just below the 2 o’clock position on a small raised case mount, in the form of a small pusher.

The two piece slate dial has applied gilt luminous dot markers, with white minute markers plus gilt baton luminous filled hands. The bronze coloured bezel is secured with 4 screws. The crystal is Sapphire and slightly domed. The watch case is stainless steel, as is the back with said securing screws with the serial number & model details inscribed plus brand logo. The Gerard Genta logo is also featured on the red tipped Alarm pointer, which form part of the central slate disc on the dial.

The Gerald Genta original T bar leather strap has the original signed stainless steel double deployment clasp. Case diameter is 40mm ex. crowns. and 13mm thickness.

The very few previous auction sales I’ve seen for this model have been considerably higher, though metal specification obviously a factor. But I’m very happy I’ve got a bit of a bargain for what is a relatively rare model, so I’m really pleased with my impulse buy!

Gerald Genta watches are seen as an iconic brand and to actually have one is an unexpected surprise and a pleasure – and my Wife has forgiven me since she set eyes on it – she now likes it as much as I do.

Anyway, I suppose it’s all relevant – and whilst maybe a bargain, it was still quite expensive for me at the time.

But as my better half says, “Well you’re a watch collector dear. And we don’t want any old rubbish, do we?”

Update – The watch is still going strong and it never fails to make me smile when I pick it up after a dormant period (I don’t have winders) and it smoothly continues it’s seconds sweep, as if it was never idle. You don’t even have to waggle it a bit – nope – it just starts as you pick it up – what could be better?

Latest (April 2024) – I recently had the watch fully serviced – with a 2 year guarantee no less, no issues found and as good as it was when made – I am very pleased.

Old favourites

A selection of some old favourites – not picked in regards price or value – but rather models I just like to wear.

Breitling Aerospace 1999 quartz, with the Omega Seamaster 2577-6 Automatic

For whatever reason, they just feel right. It’s also true to say that for what they are, they are very, very good watches and seem to work and work, smooth and silent and never let you down.

The Breitling Aerospace 1999 model, which is probably my overall daily beater and worn mostly since I bought it new. Why do I like it?

Well, firstly it looks good and it’s one of the most successful ana-digi models I’ve ever come across. I say this as the digital display is electro-luminescent, which is quite rare today, which you can read in any kind of daylight circumstance.
The analogue hands though very slim, are highly luminous (as are the minute markers) and are what I call “all nighters” as they are readable for many, many hours of darkness. The minute hand overlapping the centre spindle is also very clever, in that it gives an immediate visual separation between the hands.

The watch also has a comprehensive digital set of functions, which though quite unobtrusive are available with the simple selection of the single control – the crown.

This particular case and bracelet are made from Titanium, which I’ve always liked, as it ages so smoothly it is a delight on the wrist.

And when this model appeared, they obviously had divers in mind as the bracelet features a built in extender, so can be worn over a wet suit.

Then there is the 1950 Omega Seamaster 2577-6, Cal 351 17J Automatic with it’s odd 300º bumper rotor. which is a bit of a classic if there ever was. Such an understated design and so neat to wear as it only measures maybe 36mm across. This in stainless steel with screw down crown and screw back.

Age patination on the dial now, but it seems to make it even more desirable and the smoothest movements you can imagine – moving the hands manually, it is smooth as silk. And the tiny red pointer on the sweep seconds hand – a nice touch.

As I say, a classic!

Heuer Camaro 7743 manual, Bauhaus Classic 2162-1 Automatic.

Next, is the absolute classic from 1960, the Heuer Camaro 7743 model, with it’s Camaro 30 chrono Calibre Valjoux 733 movement in that wonderfully designed 37mm stainless steel cushion case, which you really don’t see these days. A great shape for all wrists, but rare today.

This is another watch that is so good to wear – it sets so well on the wrist and it’s a very good looking design with the brushed steel topside, it looks and is very solid and substantial and is without doubt one of my very favourite watches. Again it’s one of those models that just works so well and worth a quite a bit these days, as they are quite rare to find in really good condition.

Next to it a more modern models that eschews the past – this is the German Brand, the Bauhaus Classic 2162-1 Automatic Day, Date. Called the classic – it should be a classic.

This watch shows off the intriguing Bauhaus minimalist + functionality concept perfectly. Note the asymmetric hour and minute hand hand widths, the sweep centre seconds, a Date view @3 and the full Day window @12, make this a very practical and efficient way to read the time at a glance. It has a lovely domed crystal and the case design allows a large dial surface

It uses the Automatic movement – the Citizen 21J Miyota 8285, which is a very smooth performer. It also has a high quality brown leather strap in keeping with the watch overall. Again this is a great watch to wear and invariably gets comments when I do wear it.

Last but not least of the six presented here –

Two different models now – they look different but both are practical and function so well.

Seiko Orange Monster Auto and the Laco “Squad” quartz

First is the rather amazing Seiko classic – the Orange Monster SKZ781K3 a Divers design model, which features a really solid and distinct stainless case, built like a battleship, 200m Water Resistance, a curved outwards unidirectional bezel and superlative luminous dial features and very clear to read.

This also uses the Seiko Classic, reliable and so well designed 7S26 Automatic movement (which I still prefer to later versions) with Day and Date combined window@3. This is a model that people either love (as I do) or for some unaccountable reason, don’t (your loss!). All I can say is, this particular model was very popular!

Last but not least, is the lesser (in the UK) but well respected German Brand – the Laco 1925 “Squad” watch, 40mm diameter, bull winder @12 Quartz ETA FO6.111 movement, with it’s highly unusual curved double articulated lugs design which hold it neat to the wrist. It’s another great Water Resistant model rated at 20ATM.

The wide dial has a really black matte finish background, that contrasts so well with the large and clearly defined luminous analogue hands, plus centre sweep seconds hand with dot marker. A date window @6 and a very nicely defined and operating click unidirectional rotating bezel, completes the look.

Has that distinctive look and the model from their range I prefer (quartz) as it’s just 40mm diameter (the mechanical version when I bought this was 46mm – too big for me).

So that’s just 6 of my likes from watches I have, picked just because I like ’em and they came first to hand. Value wise and in no order, from very affordable to mid range affordable. Every so often I’ll pick some more from the stuff I have, maybe affordable or maybe not, who knows what will turn up. It’s also fun to do as it brings back the memory of acquiring them and gets me fired up to maybe look at more watches that attract me.

That for me is what collecting watches is all about. It also makes me realise what an eclectic collection I have – love it!

Casio – and why I like them.

Casio as a brand seem to have been in existence for almost as long as I have – well almost! -)

And it makes you wonder why?

They started in 1946 in Japan and still producing today and providing the world with more innovative products. With many tech milestones back from the early days of Calculators, Musical Keyboards, E Dictionaries, to what I’m interested in right now – watches. From G-Shock (1983), RC controlled models, to GPS to whatever . . . . the range is amazing and ongoing.

Proof of how good they are can be seen in their present line up of mechanical and Digital watches – because, so many of them don’t seem to have changed, since they were first produced – There’s no doubt they were and are well designed and do the job they are meant to do, right from the start.

Casio at it’s best. Affordable, Quartz accuracy and lots of functions.

And their pricing for a decent watch that will last and last, is amazingly cheap in comparison to so many competitors.

This is the ubiquitous Casio AE-1000W-1A2VEF – some title I know, but this model has been around for many years and is still a remarkable best seller.

Very affordable and for reliability and features, it’s as good as they get. It’s also very clear to read and at a glance shows the time with running seconds, am or pm, the Day, Month and Year, even your time zone.

The controls are obvious on the top of the watch bezel – Adjust, Mode, Search and Light. It also has a 10 year battery life, which rather makes these so called “smart” watches a bit of a joke, in my opinion.

The functions and features list is comprehensive –

Accuracy is +/- 30 seconds a month, An Alarm Function with 5 Daily Alarms: Each will sound every day at the time you set, an Hourly time signal: The watch beeps every hour on the hour (selectable on/off).
It also has an Auto Calendar – Once set, the automatic calendar always displays the correct date. It also has a Countdown Timer, from 24 hours, measuring 1/10 second. A Stopwatch function, which can measure 24 hours with different modes – Elapsed time, 1st-2nd place times and all to 1/100th second.

Plus, if that wasn’t enough, it features a World Time – giving you 4 Time Zones (quite enough) and these Local Times can be called up quickly and easily, which is so much better than some over-complicated World Time models.

As said, the dial displays current Day, Week and Year, so a quick glance is all you need on a daily basis and this is all contained in a very tough resin case measuring just 43.7mm diameter and 13.7mm depth. The strap is resin, which has never been my favourite, as they tend to go brittle, but this can be changed quite easily.

The dial can also be illuminated with LED and an afterglow function. There is a Mute Function which switches OFF any tone sounds, whilst all pre-set Alarms or Timer functions stay active.

The glass is also break resistant and the control pushers are shrouded, just enough to prevent accidental operation – Note– the dial light button is top right and very easy to operate. The watch is also Water Resistant to 100m, so as a “daily” why take it off at all?

At around £40 in the UK and changed little since first introduced, there’s a reason – it’s simply because they got this one just right, first time. So, if in the market for an easy to use, easy to see, easy to live with digital quartz – and when you consider the two similar models noted on the links below, I’d say they pretty much got them right!

And that’s why I like Casio (and Timex digital if I’m honest)

Two other models I also own are virtually the same – check them out!
The first – is the Casio AE1200WH-1AV – which I Posted here – https://watchspace.co.uk/2013/11/18/holiday-watch/
Probably the same module, without the “Shock” name, but just as tough – again this is a favourite holiday or travel watch. Note when I bought this, it was under £20!

The Second – a different brand – this is my Timex Expedition T49976 which is very similar, even the dial layout, but without the World Time. This is another favourite travel watch. And for Time Zones – it’s no real problem, as changing time on the Timex is a case of pushing 2 buttons – and it’s done.
This was one of three Posts on this model – https://watchspace.co.uk/2014/08/27/my-camouflage-choice/

My Bruno Söhnle Pesaro IV

My usual daily watch always tends to feature a similar specification. It has to be luminous (properly so), easy to see and read, I like a Date indication, even a Day would be nice and it has to be the right size. Whilst I probably prefer an Automatic (mechanical) movement, Quartz is OK with me too.

In a dress watch, however, I’m not quite so fussy. It doesn’t have to be luminous, it has to be stylish on the wrist, an OK size and a Date is always acceptable and a Day is a bonus.

Which brings me to a watch Brand I’m very comfortable with – Bruno Söhnle. This is a German maker and I already have three models, all bought when in Europe at different times. But as I was over there earlier this year and as I felt like having a new dress watch, I looked them up.

The Pesaro IV Big Day Date dress watch was just what I was looking for. It come in two versions and this is the grey model (the other is a more standard plain) and it met my expectations perfectly. The dial incorporates two different split textures and it features a very obvious Big Date @12, plus the green centre Seconds hand and retrograde Day pointer. This is also a Quartz powered model, based on the Ronda 7003.L, but highly refined by BS in-house, to create a very stylish dress watch. The crown winder is nice and large with decent knurling, which I like.

The 316L stainless steel case is 41.5mm diameter, which is about as big as I can take and is 13.65mm thickness. It has a Water Resistance rating of 10bar (so if I fall in the swimming pool, it should be OK – not sure about me!)

The crystal is Sapphire Glass with an Anti-reflection coating inside and it has a glass back, so the movement and battery type (Renata 381) is visible. All set off by a nice quality dark green coloured fine and smooth calf leather strap, 22mm width with a folding clasp.

All in all this is a very stylish watch, which looks that little bit different and the colourway seems to work well overall. I have always liked the retrograde days of the week idea indicator and it’s not the first watch I’ve had with this feature. Though the green pointer is certainly different.

I also like the fact that the Brand name is subdued on the dial and does not interfere with the visual appeal of the dial, as it’s not obviously as clear to read as the more conventional coloured version. Black analogue hands are admittedly, for me, not my normal choice, but I’ll go with it in what I consider a dress watch.

I refer to two models I already have Posts for here –
https://watchspace.co.uk/2009/07/03/bruno-sohnle/
https://watchspace.co.uk/2015/03/12/german-schonheit/