Something about vintage – Trebex

One of the nicest watches to wear is this 1948 9ct gold TREBEX, with it’s superb overhung centre sweep second hand and one of the most unique pointer styles I can remember seeing on a watch. I have heard this particular model was referred to as an excellent “Doctor’s” watch In Japan, no less! Perhaps not officially, but as the seconds index is fully blocked in, coupled with the wonderful seconds hand made pulse timing very, very easy. It IS however VERY rare indeed to find it.

There is some confusion about the origins of this brand, though the horological trade mark index (the Mikrolisk data web site) does have it listed as a sub brand of the Milex Watch Company. They were registered in Switzerland in 1938 along with Elem under their trade mark appropriation data.

Swiss Trebex 9ct Gold Gents watch 1928 vintage. — Swiss Trebex 9ct Gold Gents watch 1948 vintage.

The watch case is 34.5mm diameter which is quite large for the period and had what was termed as “fluted” or “fancy lugs”.

The hand wound mechanical movement is an A S Schild 17 jewel calibre 1351 and runs perfectly and in fact a very good time keeper.

I fitted it to a green lizard strap which seemed to suit it complete with a rounded vintage gold buckle and it is a delight to wear and often to be seen on my wrist of an evening.

No idea of the value of this watch at all, but it is what it is and so far I’ve not come across another with this particular dial. I have found only one with what appears to be a very similar case including the “fluted” lugs, but not with the same seconds/minute closed index OR that amazing seconds pointer hand.

So, to me it’s worth having basically for it’s apparent rarity and the fact, I like it very much and often wear it. And that surely is what it’s all about.

February 2025 –

On reflection I wonder if the dial has been redone at some time. And the hands maybe retro-fitted and not for this dial size. I suppose when you look closer, the minute and seconds hand overhang the printed dial index considerably.

Just a thought – but whatever – I just love watching the seconds hand move smoothly round the dial – quite fascinating.

Something about vintage – Lord Elgin

The main reason I collect vintage watches is simply because of their look. And yes, generally they are smaller than today, but not to be confused with ladies models, which when these were produced were very much smaller. But that doesn’t mean they look feminine on a gent’s wrist, not at all, but it does mean that they are amazingly comfortable and to my mind, look great.

Take this 1947 Lord Elgin, which is not quite as old as I am, but at 76 years old it is still working perfectly, keeps reasonable time and has a power reserve that lasts easily from day to day.

This model has the 21 jewel Cal. 670 manual wind movement, adjusted to 3 positions.

It has a lovely copper dial with gold hour and minute hands, plus a sub-seconds dial @6 also with a gold seconds pointer. A minute index is nicely configured around the dial and the detail is really very good indeed.

This model also has wonderful fully articulated “fancy” lugs (a cute and correct quaint term of the day) with nice engraved work at the case ends. The watch is in a Wandsworth Gold Filled case and the entire look is excellent, as is the condition.

Note the “adjusted in 3 positions” – this means that when produced, it actually had an accuracy goal right from the start.
Many watches are not adjusted at all for accuracy, but for these vintage watches it was a good thing. Different levels of accuracies could be graded, such as 2 positions or 5 positions and this means simply that the watch was tested (duh!) in different positions, such as crown down, crown up and so on. Because wearing on a wrist, the watch ends up in many different positions, so it shows an attempt has been made right from the start, to minimise inaccuracy from a positional point of view at least.

There are actually two other main factors affecting accuracy, such as temperature and then the mainspring effect, or “isochronism”, which is caused by the spring unwinding as it runs. For example it might be 2 or 3 seconds fast in the morning, but later in the day maybe 3 or 4 times that. So to try and regulate that “rate” is another way of improving accuracy.

But this watch at least has had some positional adjustments carried out, which is a good indicator of decent quality movement wise.

However, the main point of this Post is much more basic.

I simply wanted to show how good a true vintage sized watch can look on a gents wrist (the gent being me!) 😉 and I think it looks great and it wears great, which was and is still the main reason for my vintage watch collecting.

Note – The dimensions of the watch are 21mm across (add 1mm for the crown) x 45mm total lug to lug including articulation (the case is actually 27mm lug to lug) and the curved case is approximately 7mm thickness including the high domed crystal, which is a feature on many vintage watches of this period.

I’m going to do a few more of the vintage watch Posts, since I re-organised my watch storage ideas recently. I have a pile of leather strapped models waiting to be re-located in new cabinets and I’m cataloguing them too, so they are to hand.

Divers – Part 2

I feature another cost effective Diver’s watch, this time from Rotate North. A relatively new Brand based in Belfast, who offer cost effective dive capable models for tough duty, coupled with general day wear.

My preferred model is the Atlantic model which has a 300m Water Resistance rating, so more than enough for the casual scuba diver. The watch also isn’t too large in diameter or thickness which is always a consideration for me. It then doesn’t look out of place if used for every day use.

I like that the dial is relatively uncluttered, uses Super-lumiNova on hands and markers, a date window @3, sapphire crystal and a well formed protected screw down crown. It also features a unidirectional bezel with luminous datum and a solid stainless steel case. It has been knurled sufficiently so turning it is relatively easy, which is quite important and often overlooked by folks looking at watches for diving.
In standard form it appears to comes with an unusual rubber 20mm wide NATO style watch strap. The watch is produced in Germany.
The movement is the well respected Seiko NH35A, 24 jewel Automatic movement with 41hr power reserve and has a centre sweep seconds hand with luminous dot.

The choice of this movement is a good one, as it’s a typical Seiko work horse movement, very popular in the range, with good accuracy and reliability and it can also be hand wound.

Watch dimensions are around 41mm width (46mm incl. crown), which is a sensible and manageable size and the case is 15mm thickness, so a strong solid watch.

Rotate North have two other dive style models –

The Arctic – with a 500m rating, slightly larger at 43mm diameter (48mm incl. crown) and thicker case at 16mm, and an unshrouded crown is @4. My preference is a protected or ‘shrouded’ crown. The case is also thicker so could be a bit chunky for everyday wear.

The Tempest – similar size to the Atlantic but with unshrouded crown @3 and it has an additional 24hr index on the dial . My preference is without 24hr index, as it adds dial clutter and again I prefer a shrouded crown.

A note on Bezel knurling –

Citizen **BN0000.04 Eco-Drive** 300m Diver. Compact and does what it says! With great bezel numerals makes for absolute clarity.

Take my Seiko 5 Sports Edition model – looks great in most aspects and yes, can certainly be used for diving, but if for scuba-diving, then knowing how much air time you have left is fairly important. And the bezel knurling on the Sports 5 is not well defined enough to make it easy to set, it’s just too smooth.
Maybe a bit picky, but I’m just saying . . . . . Great watch for a bit of snorkelling and general swimming if you don’t really need the bezel feature.

An oldie but goodie is the Citizen BN0000.04 Diver’s model is a classic I’ve had for a few years now. An Eco-Drive movement with Date @3 and with an after market silicon deployment strap.
I love this model as it’s the most compact Diver model I’ve ever seen. It is rated at 300m Water Resistance and features a unique shaped mould like satin finished steel case and well shrouded crown. On top a great contrasting large numeral unidirectional bezel with good knurling so is easy to turn.

Citizen solid sealed body Diver. Note shrouded crown.

Needless to say as it’s Eco-Drive, it’s fully automatic and powered by Solar, so pretty much goes on forever. The dial is very clear to read, with large and very luminous hour and minute hand plus a sweep seconds with luminous dot. The hour markers are also large, well defined and very luminous. In fact the luminous quality of this model is exceptional which is perfect for this relatively small dial.

This is what I call a no nonsense watch. Very well constructed, smooth and sleek on the wrist and very tough indeed. Case dimensions are around 40mm width (43mm incl. crown) and only around 11mm thick at most – as I say, a very neat watch – and the reason I got it in the first place. In fact, it is a brilliant compact Diver and again and this time from Citizen, a model that is just right.

So if small and perfectly formed is your thing – then this is your watch.

Is it still made currently? – I have no idea, but it should be, because it’s very, very good.

Divers part 1 – Quartz or Auto?

And that’s the thing with Diver’s watches – they look darned good at the poolside or even at the dinner table and maybe if you’ve bought clever – in the Sea too.

Often they’re oversize or at least the hands and numerals are broad and bright too. Hopefully they glow bright in the dark (or should do) of solid construction and will shrug off damage and it goes without saying, they MUST be water resistant to hundreds of meters depth? Or do they?

Back in the day when I used to scuba dive, the deepest I got down to was around 30 odd meters and even then, rarely, and this when I was much younger and my lungs still worked! 😉 Much deeper than that, you were into decompression territory, which was not my game at all.

So the first question is – What depth rating do you really need on your Diver’s watch? I mean, I’ve seen a few that manage many, many hundreds of meters and no, you don’t need one of those, as these are really specialist devices and a bit more than a scuba holiday, splash around the pool watch.

For light recreational diving I reckon (my opinion) a decent dive model should have a minimum of 100m, though my preference would be 200m. These will easily take care of most recreational dives and the odd nut. They will certainly allow pool work and the odd sea adventure for the non professional.

The second question is – Mechanical or Quartz – my opinion is – either.

One of my favourites is my old Apeks Professional 200 AP0406 (quartz) – it’s proved itself for years personally in scuba situations – It was very inexpensive and has never let me down.

Apeks AP0406 Mens 200m Professional Dive Watch

Great luminosity, very clear to read above and below and it’s a very neat watch too.
Note – the knurling on the bezel is serious, nice and figured and easy to grip. The bezel is unidirectional, well lettered and with good contrast, so you can easily estimate how much tank time you’ve got left.

Battery life is around 3 years and luminous dial qualities are excellent (note – I have more in depth – pardon the pun – Posts on this watch somewhere on the site)

So, how do you figure when the battery is about to die on you is to use common sense. I swap my battery every 2 and a half years IF I’m using the watch as intended. If I’m using it simply as a daily beater, as I do with the Apeks, then every 3 years, before it stops – it’s not a matter of life and death.

For me, these days and basically as a daily wear watch, Quartz has it’s attractions, price of course being the main one, because this watch was really NOT expensive for what you get. And for my scuba diving, such as it was, it has proved itself time and time again.

However, if I wanted an alternative to quartz, I’d have to definitely consider as my very first Automatic movement Dive watch choice – I’d definitely (and I have long ago) pick out the Seiko.

Specifically, the Seiko Orange Monster, which is another VERY popular recreational diver model which I also own and use.

It features an Automatic (not quartz) movement and basically as long as I’m moving my arm occasionally, my Orange Monster ticks along just fine. My Monster is a Mk 1 and features the 21 jewel mechanical automatic Seiko 7S26 movement and with the additional Day and Date window shows it’s versatility as a daily wear and for me the day/date is useful, as being long retired I rarely know what day it is! The day and date are easily altered on the first click of the crown. This movement is non-hacking (in other words when you pull out the crown the seconds hand keeps going, as opposed to stopping the seconds hand on say 12, for precise time adjustment). For me I prefer non-hacking which may actually add to reliability and the 7S26 is without doubt, a VERY reliable movement.

Note the Monster also has a very efficient auto winding (rotor) mechanism and if you haven’t worn the watch for a while, it basically only requires you to waggle it in a horizontal manner a minute or two, wear it and it’s pretty much set for the day. Fully wound it easily manages more than 40 hours. In practice my one here managed 45hours! A really great practical watch.

Seiko Diver (Orange Monster) Mk 1 – When they made this one, they got it just right!

Later models (Mk 2) feature (12 years after mine) the 24 jewel Cal 4R36 auto movement could be manually wound and I understand the Mk 3 had a 6R15 movement with increased power reserve of 50hrs. Apart from these changes, the Monster has only received minor cosmetic alterations since it first came out over 2o years ago – a testament to a model that got it absolutely right first time.

I certainly like the Monster as it’s VERY bright, so good to read underwater and low light and is built like the proverbial brick outhouse! Big heavily figured bezel, large clear dial, great luminosity and solid construction, make this a very, very popular choice for many.

For me either of the two models featured here would probably still be my starter model if looking for a versatile day/diver watch or even taking diving just a tad more seriously.
They both do what they say very well, be it Seiko quartz or Seiko automatic, as both movements are very reliable and difficult to beat and regardless if your first diver or not, these two will last a lifetime and more.

Now I know some folks will say I have featured these before and that is true. But there are watches that for many reasons have proved to be so right, it’s always worth introducing them to new audiences. So no apologies from me.

But there are many others out there these days and maybe I’ll find another one that manages to get the basics right.

And that’s important – and not always the case, so I’m hoping there are more around and if so I’ll feature it or them on a future Divers Part 2.

Old favourites

A selection of some old favourites – not picked in regards price or value – but rather models I just like to wear.

Breitling Aerospace 1999 quartz, with the Omega Seamaster 2577-6 Automatic

For whatever reason, they just feel right. It’s also true to say that for what they are, they are very, very good watches and seem to work and work, smooth and silent and never let you down.

The Breitling Aerospace 1999 model, which is probably my overall daily beater and worn mostly since I bought it new. Why do I like it?

Well, firstly it looks good and it’s one of the most successful ana-digi models I’ve ever come across. I say this as the digital display is electro-luminescent, which is quite rare today, which you can read in any kind of daylight circumstance.
The analogue hands though very slim, are highly luminous (as are the minute markers) and are what I call “all nighters” as they are readable for many, many hours of darkness. The minute hand overlapping the centre spindle is also very clever, in that it gives an immediate visual separation between the hands.

The watch also has a comprehensive digital set of functions, which though quite unobtrusive are available with the simple selection of the single control – the crown.

This particular case and bracelet are made from Titanium, which I’ve always liked, as it ages so smoothly it is a delight on the wrist.

And when this model appeared, they obviously had divers in mind as the bracelet features a built in extender, so can be worn over a wet suit.

Then there is the 1950 Omega Seamaster 2577-6, Cal 351 17J Automatic with it’s odd 300º bumper rotor. which is a bit of a classic if there ever was. Such an understated design and so neat to wear as it only measures maybe 36mm across. This in stainless steel with screw down crown and screw back.

Age patination on the dial now, but it seems to make it even more desirable and the smoothest movements you can imagine – moving the hands manually, it is smooth as silk. And the tiny red pointer on the sweep seconds hand – a nice touch.

As I say, a classic!

Heuer Camaro 7743 manual, Bauhaus Classic 2162-1 Automatic.

Next, is the absolute classic from 1960, the Heuer Camaro 7743 model, with it’s Camaro 30 chrono Calibre Valjoux 733 movement in that wonderfully designed 37mm stainless steel cushion case, which you really don’t see these days. A great shape for all wrists, but rare today.

This is another watch that is so good to wear – it sets so well on the wrist and it’s a very good looking design with the brushed steel topside, it looks and is very solid and substantial and is without doubt one of my very favourite watches. Again it’s one of those models that just works so well and worth a quite a bit these days, as they are quite rare to find in really good condition.

Next to it a more modern models that eschews the past – this is the German Brand, the Bauhaus Classic 2162-1 Automatic Day, Date. Called the classic – it should be a classic.

This watch shows off the intriguing Bauhaus minimalist + functionality concept perfectly. Note the asymmetric hour and minute hand hand widths, the sweep centre seconds, a Date view @3 and the full Day window @12, make this a very practical and efficient way to read the time at a glance. It has a lovely domed crystal and the case design allows a large dial surface

It uses the Automatic movement – the Citizen 21J Miyota 8285, which is a very smooth performer. It also has a high quality brown leather strap in keeping with the watch overall. Again this is a great watch to wear and invariably gets comments when I do wear it.

Last but not least of the six presented here –

Two different models now – they look different but both are practical and function so well.

Seiko Orange Monster Auto and the Laco “Squad” quartz

First is the rather amazing Seiko classic – the Orange Monster SKZ781K3 a Divers design model, which features a really solid and distinct stainless case, built like a battleship, 200m Water Resistance, a curved outwards unidirectional bezel and superlative luminous dial features and very clear to read.

This also uses the Seiko Classic, reliable and so well designed 7S26 Automatic movement (which I still prefer to later versions) with Day and Date combined window@3. This is a model that people either love (as I do) or for some unaccountable reason, don’t (your loss!). All I can say is, this particular model was very popular!

Last but not least, is the lesser (in the UK) but well respected German Brand – the Laco 1925 “Squad” watch, 40mm diameter, bull winder @12 Quartz ETA FO6.111 movement, with it’s highly unusual curved double articulated lugs design which hold it neat to the wrist. It’s another great Water Resistant model rated at 20ATM.

The wide dial has a really black matte finish background, that contrasts so well with the large and clearly defined luminous analogue hands, plus centre sweep seconds hand with dot marker. A date window @6 and a very nicely defined and operating click unidirectional rotating bezel, completes the look.

Has that distinctive look and the model from their range I prefer (quartz) as it’s just 40mm diameter (the mechanical version when I bought this was 46mm – too big for me).

So that’s just 6 of my likes from watches I have, picked just because I like ’em and they came first to hand. Value wise and in no order, from very affordable to mid range affordable. Every so often I’ll pick some more from the stuff I have, maybe affordable or maybe not, who knows what will turn up. It’s also fun to do as it brings back the memory of acquiring them and gets me fired up to maybe look at more watches that attract me.

That for me is what collecting watches is all about. It also makes me realise what an eclectic collection I have – love it!

Casio – and why I like them.

Casio as a brand seem to have been in existence for almost as long as I have – well almost! -)

And it makes you wonder why?

They started in 1946 in Japan and still producing today and providing the world with more innovative products. With many tech milestones back from the early days of Calculators, Musical Keyboards, E Dictionaries, to what I’m interested in right now – watches. From G-Shock (1983), RC controlled models, to GPS to whatever . . . . the range is amazing and ongoing.

Proof of how good they are can be seen in their present line up of mechanical and Digital watches – because, so many of them don’t seem to have changed, since they were first produced – There’s no doubt they were and are well designed and do the job they are meant to do, right from the start.

Casio at it’s best. Affordable, Quartz accuracy and lots of functions.

And their pricing for a decent watch that will last and last, is amazingly cheap in comparison to so many competitors.

This is the ubiquitous Casio AE-1000W-1A2VEF – some title I know, but this model has been around for many years and is still a remarkable best seller.

Very affordable and for reliability and features, it’s as good as they get. It’s also very clear to read and at a glance shows the time with running seconds, am or pm, the Day, Month and Year, even your time zone.

The controls are obvious on the top of the watch bezel – Adjust, Mode, Search and Light. It also has a 10 year battery life, which rather makes these so called “smart” watches a bit of a joke, in my opinion.

The functions and features list is comprehensive –

Accuracy is +/- 30 seconds a month, An Alarm Function with 5 Daily Alarms: Each will sound every day at the time you set, an Hourly time signal: The watch beeps every hour on the hour (selectable on/off).
It also has an Auto Calendar – Once set, the automatic calendar always displays the correct date. It also has a Countdown Timer, from 24 hours, measuring 1/10 second. A Stopwatch function, which can measure 24 hours with different modes – Elapsed time, 1st-2nd place times and all to 1/100th second.

Plus, if that wasn’t enough, it features a World Time – giving you 4 Time Zones (quite enough) and these Local Times can be called up quickly and easily, which is so much better than some over-complicated World Time models.

As said, the dial displays current Day, Week and Year, so a quick glance is all you need on a daily basis and this is all contained in a very tough resin case measuring just 43.7mm diameter and 13.7mm depth. The strap is resin, which has never been my favourite, as they tend to go brittle, but this can be changed quite easily.

The dial can also be illuminated with LED and an afterglow function. There is a Mute Function which switches OFF any tone sounds, whilst all pre-set Alarms or Timer functions stay active.

The glass is also break resistant and the control pushers are shrouded, just enough to prevent accidental operation – Note– the dial light button is top right and very easy to operate. The watch is also Water Resistant to 100m, so as a “daily” why take it off at all?

At around £40 in the UK and changed little since first introduced, there’s a reason – it’s simply because they got this one just right, first time. So, if in the market for an easy to use, easy to see, easy to live with digital quartz – and when you consider the two similar models noted on the links below, I’d say they pretty much got them right!

And that’s why I like Casio (and Timex digital if I’m honest)

Two other models I also own are virtually the same – check them out!
The first – is the Casio AE1200WH-1AV – which I Posted here – https://watchspace.co.uk/2013/11/18/holiday-watch/
Probably the same module, without the “Shock” name, but just as tough – again this is a favourite holiday or travel watch. Note when I bought this, it was under £20!

The Second – a different brand – this is my Timex Expedition T49976 which is very similar, even the dial layout, but without the World Time. This is another favourite travel watch. And for Time Zones – it’s no real problem, as changing time on the Timex is a case of pushing 2 buttons – and it’s done.
This was one of three Posts on this model – https://watchspace.co.uk/2014/08/27/my-camouflage-choice/

My Bruno Söhnle Pesaro IV

My usual daily watch always tends to feature a similar specification. It has to be luminous (properly so), easy to see and read, I like a Date indication, even a Day would be nice and it has to be the right size. Whilst I probably prefer an Automatic (mechanical) movement, Quartz is OK with me too.

In a dress watch, however, I’m not quite so fussy. It doesn’t have to be luminous, it has to be stylish on the wrist, an OK size and a Date is always acceptable and a Day is a bonus.

Which brings me to a watch Brand I’m very comfortable with – Bruno Söhnle. This is a German maker and I already have three models, all bought when in Europe at different times. But as I was over there earlier this year and as I felt like having a new dress watch, I looked them up.

The Pesaro IV Big Day Date dress watch was just what I was looking for. It come in two versions and this is the grey model (the other is a more standard plain) and it met my expectations perfectly. The dial incorporates two different split textures and it features a very obvious Big Date @12, plus the green centre Seconds hand and retrograde Day pointer. This is also a Quartz powered model, based on the Ronda 7003.L, but highly refined by BS in-house, to create a very stylish dress watch. The crown winder is nice and large with decent knurling, which I like.

The 316L stainless steel case is 41.5mm diameter, which is about as big as I can take and is 13.65mm thickness. It has a Water Resistance rating of 10bar (so if I fall in the swimming pool, it should be OK – not sure about me!)

The crystal is Sapphire Glass with an Anti-reflection coating inside and it has a glass back, so the movement and battery type (Renata 381) is visible. All set off by a nice quality dark green coloured fine and smooth calf leather strap, 22mm width with a folding clasp.

All in all this is a very stylish watch, which looks that little bit different and the colourway seems to work well overall. I have always liked the retrograde days of the week idea indicator and it’s not the first watch I’ve had with this feature. Though the green pointer is certainly different.

I also like the fact that the Brand name is subdued on the dial and does not interfere with the visual appeal of the dial, as it’s not obviously as clear to read as the more conventional coloured version. Black analogue hands are admittedly, for me, not my normal choice, but I’ll go with it in what I consider a dress watch.

I refer to two models I already have Posts for here –
https://watchspace.co.uk/2009/07/03/bruno-sohnle/
https://watchspace.co.uk/2015/03/12/german-schonheit/

The Terra Cotta (Swatch)

I suppose Swatch watches are known more for their very affordable, reliable and good quality Swiss Quartz models, which started off life back in 1983 as a result of the Quartz revolution, basically from Asia and the inherent danger to the Swiss mechanical models at that time. A response was required and hence the Swatch appeared – sometimes referred to, or maybe popularly called, the Second Watch or SWatch. A model that was colourful, very affordable and also very reliable and with great Swiss Quartz timekeeping too.

However, back in the early days Swiss watches really were famous for mechanical movements, not Quartz, so a few years after the Swatch revolution, for that’s what it was, they also produced Swatch watches with mechanical movements, manual and automatic and always of a dependable high quality.

The Terra Cotta (SAK402) is part of Swatch’s “Original Automatic” family, a legacy watch if you will, which appeared in 1996, and this one completely original – with a very decent 23 jewel automatic Swiss movement. This is visible through the full “exhibition” clear back. The plastic case is 36.7mm diameter which is a rarity in itself and not a case size currently available.

On the dial, there’s a neat viewable Date indicator, via a wheel and pointer arrangement, that just sets it apart from the mainstream. And yes, a simple change to the more common date window, but rather nice, as viewing it, you can sort of confirm your place in the month.

The red coloured centre seconds hand, defines it’s movement heritage, as it doesn’t tick each second as a quartz movement does, but rather has a smoother “sweeping” motion, with a smooth rapid tick.

Terra Cotta – 23 jewel Swiss Auto movement.

The original strap on this model is of red leather (not plastic), which rather compliments the dial colour and although a bit frayed now, is still OK to wear. I like that as it shows this watch was wrist worn and loved – and to me, this means it was a “daily beater” for the owner and that’s a big plus in my book.

This one may well have been a “home buddy” as it came by way of Zurich in Switzerland and now it’s on the travel trail with me. Though later this year it’ll be back in it’s old stomping ground, as I tend to visit the middle countries of Europe every year. There are no better places for good watch hunting, new or pre-owned.

These were and still are produced in amazing colours and styles and most were Water Resistant, even the Quartz models with their small “hatch” fit battery.

The cases were made of light weight plastic, so almost unnoticeable on the wrist, were it not for the bright colourways they use in an almost infinite range of patterns and dials. Today they often use “Bio materials”, allegedly more kind to the planet, but the philosophy remains the same. And movement wise, so confident are they these days, some movements are completely case sealed – no repairs possible – and in the rare event it stops, throw it away and get another one.

While I’m on about Swatch, I checked out another model that came to my notice, though tempted, have not bought (yet?)

SwatchOverTheWaves – odd title, but that’s Swatch Quartz for you.

This is the SwatchOverTheWaves, a diver style Quartz powered model – with an amazing 200m Water Resistance. I just love the colour combinations, which seem to work very well.

It will certainly be seen as a statement piece either in or out of the water!

Typical Swatch Quartz battery hatch. Note water resistance of 200M

So, whatever the reason Swatch are still managing to produce affordable models, both quartz and mechanical, in amazing colours and styles and most, believe it or not, are indeed Water Resistant, which I find surprising with that small “hatch” rear fit battery.

A success story no doubt and when you might assume a high price for a Swiss watch, these are very, very affordable. They’ve not only managed to compete but some would say surpassed that original fear in the early 1980’s that they would be over-run, by this new cheap technology.

Not so – and in my opinion, Swiss watches still reign supreme. In fact it’s a delight to browse through the current and vintage ranges available today as there’s always something new – and something you can afford!

Note – If you need to change a Swatch strap, make sure you get the correct size and remember they are not held in by “spring bars”. Swatch straps are sometimes measured (but not always) from the outside edge of the outer strap loops or between the outer edge of the case lugs.
However, it is fact that straps can also be measured simply at the widest part, where it meets the case – so be very careful which method is used by the retailer.

To remove the strap, you need a small pointer, such as the small round end of a watch strap removal tool (or Swatch’s own tool) – make sure it’s a slightly smaller diameter than the “straight pin” which will slide through the case lug, the centre case lugs and the strap’s three loops – then gently, from one end, push out the pin. Either use pliers or the Swatch tool to grab the other end and finally pull it out.
Note, I said ‘gently’ – It is important especially if a vintage Swatch watch as if it has a plastic case, it may be brittle, so could easily crack, so don’t force it, but gently does it. Once the pin is out, put the new strap in position, then ‘gently’ push in the pin again. You may have to wiggle the strap slightly as you push it into place, through the first plastic case lug, then the two guides covering the centre of the strap – all in a line, then into the last case lug. Make sure the pin is not protruding and that should be it.

You can also see how to manage this on many U tube videos – such as this one – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6wj95R9BXE

BUT – word of warning –
When it comes to an old vintage Swatch model (such as the Terra Cotta) , the original strap fitting with the trademark 3 x loops lug fitting may be similar – it could be smaller.
And the issue here is, that newer strap loops are larger and wider and may NOT line up or fit in with the original case/lug separations. They are also much thicker at the lug end, than vintage ones, so even if you managed to cut/modify the new strap to fit, so you could refit the retaining lug pin – it could look oversize and clumsy.
In the case of my Terra Cotta here – I’m fortunate the original strap has still got a bit of life in it, so I will not be trying to change it any time soon.
(another option of course is to find a true vintage Swatch for a cheap price and if it has a decent strap – consider swapping the strap)
Anyway, if it does fall apart – I’ll look at my options then and not before.

Mystery Fiction

A few years ago I came across the Fugue Fiction One watch. Fugue was a French start up brand looking for crowd founding, who had initially prototyped a couple of models that looked rather good. And being prototypes, the prices quoted were VERY low indeed, especially considering the high quality of the models being projected.

To remain afloat, this start up got involved in crowd funding, which in my view always seems a dodgy concept. If no-one’s interested, then investors can be few and far between. And if that is the case you tend to sink, not float. And so it was – even after 2 crowd funding attempts they were unable to meet the finance they looked for.

And now one of the quite rare prototypes is now on my wrist – and I am very pleased about that.

This was their second model – a great watch and for all sorts of reasons. I mean, basically, what’s not to like? Especially now that it is one of a very few around. They made two different coloured dials – this is the lighter less contrasting one.

To start with it’s a Mystery dial watch (tricky to do well, I may add), then there’s a good automatic movement. It’s also very well made and a nice sensible size with excellent quality materials used throughout – plus a very decent flexible black calf leather strap – and very comfortable to wear.

The thing about “mystery dials” is the fact that they make you wonder how the hands are connected. Vintage watches from various makers sometimes used this feature. The most obvious were the models that showed the minute hand attached to the central spindle, with the “mystery” hour hand in the background painted or applied to a disc, so giving the illusion of not being connected to anything. Some were overly elaborate, using discs for both hour and minute hands but often difficult to read.

The Fiction One however is both simple and clever and beautifully designed. It also uses discs, but one is fully transparent and really does give the illusion that both minute and hour hands are “floating”.
It is VERY easy to read. The transparent disc, which has the minute hand inscribed, plus a third clear thicker disk allows a subtle depth separation between the hour hand on it’s opaque disc – thus giving it that “mystery” floating effect.

The images taken today show how clear this watch is to read the time.

Note the omission of any seconds hand, which makes it slightly tricky to set the time exactly – (basically use another watch/internet or iPad/iPhone whatever and push in the crown on the hour is easiest) in fact you have to look at it carefully to see if it’s actually working. Mind you it’s odds on it will be, as the movement is the Sellita SW200-1 elabore, a model I have on some other watches and it is a VERY reliable automatic, being based on the ETA2824-2 (minus the date configuration). It beats at 28,000 beats per hour and has a reserve of around 38hrs.

The dial has a real quality finish to it, from the luminous applied markers to the perfectly integrated transparent discs. Complimented by the wonderfully sculpted hands with Super-luminova – it’s a quality watch.

The case is stainless steel, lightly brushed on the top surfaces and highly polished on the sides. It is also obvious that the case has been hand finished and it has a flow to it, from case body to lugs, which is a homage, if you will, to their first watch model – the Chronostase, which featured a modular case with a removable inner case (on ball bearings), which I don’t have, but would not be averse to having, if one came up for sale.

The fugue Fiction 1 Water Resistance (tested) is 5ATM, but the crown is not a screw down variety.
The clear crystal is Sapphire, as is the clear back window, which shows the movement in more detail. The watch dimensions are 38mm diameter x 46mm lug to lug and just 11.1mm thickness according to my micrometre, with the strap measuring 18mm width.

So, all in all, this is a really great watch so wear.
It has an amazingly comfortable strap, which seems “run in”, as they say and is both flexible and soft on the wrist. It is a model that is the perfect size, it’s unobtrusive, yet with the cleverly designed take on the “Mystery dial” being done so well, it’s just about as perfect an example of the concept you could get.

Alas, it seems that the Fugue Fiction 1 is now a rarity and no longer, which is a mystery (the Agatha Christie inspiration for the watch) – as it really is a classic in it’s own right – and I’m so glad to be the proud owner of one.

And yet again – Swatch

Forgot to Post this one the other day – purely as I like the look of it. Very modern, colourful and OK for size.

This is the Rouge and Noir (red and black) Bio-ceramic Quartz model SO32B401-STD. Black case with a Matte red strap, loop and buckle in ceramic bio etc, so nice and light.
It has a vibrant dial/face in white with black print and rather sudden multi-coloured hands. I like the overhang style of the bright yellow centre seconds , short enough not to confuse when reading the time, but very noticeable as a mobile seconds reference.

You certainly know the watch is working!

Swatch Rouge and Noir quartz on the wrist

The Water resistance is as usual fairly minimal standard at 3Bar, so splashes are OK, but don’t jump in the shower with it and the dimensions are perfect for most folks at 41mm, 9.85 depth and lug/lug at 47mm. You don’t need extra size to see this watch!

I really like the overall look of this model – the colours work great – no neon though (they have these too) which I personally find overpowering, but great to look at on the wrist.

The strap fitting is the Swatch format, so not that easy to change unless you go to Swatch for a replacement. However, it can be done with a simple silicon strap IF you’re prepared to fiddle and cut an bit – I’ve done it in the past (I have a Post on it somewhere) and I was very successful with my efforts.

Anyway, I digress – this model very OK priced at £82.00 – and includes free postage (UK) and I have to say I’m rather tempted.
I find it a bit surreal that this model is part of what they call the 1984 reloaded collection – so even though Swatch started in 1983 or whenever, this is a retro model! Maybe I’m just getting old! 😉

Update – Here are some images of the actual watch, taken today 18th –

Note the back of the watch and the proprietary Swatch battery hatch and the text quoting the battery type, which is always useful, so you can order one before taking the old one out, which is sensible. However, a silicon strap for me, might have been preferable to the bio stuff, which feels a bit plasticky, though it is flexible.

All in all, though – a nice little colourful watch though I’d caution that care has to to taken with bio material – feel is important and tricky to get right.