This time – I keep it!

As discussed on the last Post, after selling on my older model Navihawk, I managed to replace it at long last with this Citizen JY0005-50E Skyhawk A-T Radio Controlled Eco-Drive, which reminds me so much of my older model, AND which has been updated for today with RC and Eco-Drive. Really pleased with it because in my opinion this is a Classic Citizen model of it’s and probably my generation.

Citizen Skyhawk - home at last. — Citizen Skyhawk – home at last. Note the down curving bezel.

That amazing concept of a digital multi displays coupled with a busy, yet unaccountably readable dial analog dial layout is still a winner and I include a few images here to show it off. This is also a model that will go into my “milestones” display box and will definitely not be sold on, unlike the last time. It seems to me to be about as far along this route that Citizen can go without changing the case and tinkering with the dial layout, though not by much I hasten to add, such as the Attesa model, which I know, silly me – I also sold on . . . ;-(
But for some unknown reason I just wasn’t wearing either one and my mantra in those days was if I don’t wear ’em – they go. I’m maybe a bit more mature today and that rather strict criteria has eased somewhat and I can see the beauty in owing without over wearing, happy enough just to take it out on occasion and have the odd wearing day or week.

Skyhawk high data dial configuration works and works well!

But to the model – and there is no doubt that it is a very nicely made piece of kit with lots going for it, such as the anti-reflection coated domed crystal and the clever configuration of the entire dial, which is a masterpiece in it’s own right. There’s no question in my mind that they got this right and right at the start too.
Another thing I should mention is that I managed to get this at £100 off retail. The funny thing was and this is actual fact, the price dropped just after my last Post (we’re talking a day ago!) and as this was both the best price I’d seen and the last one the Dealer had in stock, it was an absolute no brainer for me. Straight on to the web site and that was it!

And very happy I did too and as you see I got myself a lot of watch for the money.

Skyhawk JY0005-50E - Original steel bracelet changed for Silicon deployment - means 196gms to 110gms. — Skyhawk JY0005-50E – Original steel bracelet changed for Silicon deployment – means 196gms to 110gms!

I didn’t in the end buy the Titanium one, which would normally be my preference, purely on weight grounds. However I solved this minor issue by removing the very heavy steel IP coated bracelet, which believe it or not accounted for 110gms of the total weight of 196gms, or heavier than the watch itself. Fitting a silicon deployment strap made good sense and the resultant all up weight is now just 110gms, which is actually 10gms lighter than the Red Arrows Titanium JY0110-55E version of this watch, so I’m very pleased with that.

The watch with it’s U600 movement is of course a delight to use, easy to set and once on auto in regards Radio Control is a forget watch. Get yourself a Radio signal at 2am, 3am or 4am and the time is corrected as good as you’ll get. Summer/Winter times are automatically accounted for in settings (Auto) and to change Home time for Destination Time if traveling is simple to do. Crown out to Pos 1, turn to select city shown in display 1 on the right, press buttons A and B simultaneously and the new time jumps to display 2 on the left and the old Home time moves to the 1st display on the right, push in Crown – job done! Once on the way home just do the same again, but this time simply pull out Crown to Pos 1, press A and B together, Cities move over, push Crown in – job done. So a very easy to use World Time traveler.

Classic Citizen Skyhawk - note the domed crystal and bezel — Classic Citizen Skyhawk – note the domed crystal and bezel

With the Citizen penchant for displaying data, the Charge Indicator @10 shows the current state of charge and it also doubles as transmitter indicator for your area. In other words, when Receiving, the little indicator will point to USA, Eur or Jpn. At the same time the Second hand will point to H, M or Low signal strength at between 1 and 2. So it’s very simple to see what’s going on at any time with this dial layout. The lower indicator sub-dial is the Mode selector indicator, which moves around to point or indicate your Mode selection, such as Time, Cal, Timer, Chrono, Alarm 1 and 2 and World Time – so again very easy. The digital display 1 on the right will show the selection start point.

Skyhawk JY0005-50E at 45mm diameter fits well with silicon strap. — Skyhawk JY0005-50E at 45 mm diameter fits well with silicon strap.

By the way when the watch arrives in it’s box it may well have no charge at all, so before anything you need to stick it in the daylight for around 8 hours. Then it’s ready. After you’ve done this you’ll see it’s ticking away with Displays indicating and probably not the right time or date of course, but later that night you need to do a Manual Radio Receive. Easy to do.

First you need to set your Home City/Zone. Note you have two Displays. Display 1 on the right and the smaller Display 2 on the left. Display 1 is your World Time selection. Display 2 is always your Home City selection.

So to set your Home City/Zone start by pulling the Crown out to Pos 1 and turn the Crown either direction to scroll through all the World Times on Display 1. When you get the one you want, leave it showing on Display 1 on the right. (Note when you pulled the Crown out, Display 2 will flash “M”, which means it’s in “Mode” setting ready for display switching). Now the City you selected (your Home City) is still showing in Display 1 (on the right). To move this city to your Home City Display 2 position, press both pushbuttons at the same time. This will transfer/copy the City from Display 1 to Display 2 on the left. You’ll see on my watch here that my Home City is set to London on Display 2 (left), and also on Display 1 which still shows the World Time of London. This display can also show the Month, Date and Day. Or the Time with seconds running.

It’s all pretty easy to do once you’ve managed it once, so no continual reference to the instruction booklet needed.

When traveling it’s also very easy to select a Destination Time Zone. Basically your Home City is on the left Display 2 and the new City or World Time destination City you select is on Display 1. And you simply swap them over more or less as you already did above. So a very good travelers watch.

Of course the watch is also a Calculator, Pilots delight, Motorists and Nerds friend with all sorts of calculations possible using the bezel and indexes on and within the dial, hence the text everywhere, though if you never use them, it’s OK as they’re not actually obtrusive. The Hour and Minute hands are quite broad with great luminous infill and have a considerable separation above the dial, so stand out very clearly. The sub-dial indication @12 is the UTC 24hr time and the one @2 indicates 24hr AM/PM, so again good data and well displayed, yet unobtrusive to the main time function. Note that unlike some other models, Citizen this time have ensured that the sub dial surrounds are really thin and don’t interfere with time reading when light levels are low. The main 0-12 markers are broad with great luminous qualities and the watch is extremely easy to read at night. There is also a digital display light operated by the top button which is very clear indeed.

Clean Stainless Steel back shows off sleek case design. Note – well protected knurled Crown

The watch case is very well made and surprisingly smooth and I particularly like the bezel as it’s sleek and curves down at the edges. It is of course bi-directional being a calculation instrument and not a Divers model, though that said this model has a commendable 200m Water resistance. The central knurled Crown is protected by the case and the buttons are smooth and easy to operate. I also love the back of this model as it’s very plain but in brushed stainless steel and is not designed to be opened by anyone other than Citizen, nor should there be any reason to do so.

Dimensions are not too bad for today at 45 mm wide, though I am glad to see the lug to lug is a neat 49 mm, which means this watch can fit the smaller wrist without overhang, and the depth or height of the case is 15 mm. The IP coated steel is smooth and has a subtle brushed satin finish, not glossy at all. The bracelet supplied is a standard 22 mm lug width and uses standard spring bar fixings, so alternative straps or bracelets can be used easily and as I’ve done already. Another real plus when compared to many of it’s competitors.

Out of the box first impressions are this is a big, solid and heavy watch, yet remove that very heavy bracelet, fit a silicon deployment strap and it’s suddenly not just very much lighter, but seems smaller and fits neater on the wrist.

Well defined dial with great hands to background separation

I’ve included a few images to try and show it in a more realistic light than you see on the Internet, and I’ll take a shot or two at night to show the luminous and display light aspects, though I’ll post the night shots later. The luminous quality is very good indeed and hands and markers still very clear after 6+ hrs total darkness. Added to that the digital display light for both Displays is excellent and very clear indeed. Certainly one of the better night use watches I’ve seen from the big three.

So after all that – I eventually got my Skyhawk and OK it’s not the old Navihawk and whilst I might have got a more lookalike model such as the Blue Angels (if still available), I’m really happy with this one – in fact I love it . . .

Is there a Downside? – well if honest, it is a bit larger than my old one, which seems inevitable these days – my old Navihawk was around 40 mm diameter against this one at 45 mm and it’s very much heavier, though I’ve fixed the weight issue by changing the steel bracelet for a silicon strap, with the result it’s now actually lighter than both the old one and the new Titanium version, so that was easily solved. You can of course have a silicon strap version of this model (cheaper) though I wanted the bracelet basically as if I did sell it on . . . which in this case I’m definitely not going to do, it would have that option.

Anyway the Upside of this model far outweighs any negatives, as this watch is very much updated for today with addition of Radio Control and Eco-Drive and the inclusion of a Crown and only two pushers makes a neater and certainly easier operation, plus the more advanced U600 movement module, are improvements that really do Citizen justice without diminishing their concept.

And of course it’s on my wrist! And one thing that is certain – it will not be sold on, not this time . . . . no way!

Note 1 – Where did I get this one? I bought it HERE – and note they don’t now have stock and the price has increased – it was reduced for 2 days to £299 – and I snagged it – so there! 😉

Note 2 – The Attesa I refer to is a Citizen model I bought in 2009 and was probably the real upgrade model of the original Navi/Skyhawk concept – cleaned up and much more advanced and yet – well click on the Attesa in the Post (the paragraph below the first image above) and it’s article is there and the note at the foot explains all. Interestingly I see the latest Skyhawk has moved the slide rule, bezel data indexes inside the dial. This unfortunately is starting to look just a little cluttered – unlike my model. It appears Citizen may be going too far though I hope not, but the Promaster Skyhawk PMV65-2272, seems perilously close and nearly £400 plus mailing costs from Japan. However on the plus side I note it has nice short lugs and a standard strap fixing, so that is a big improvement.

Ah well perhaps you can’t get everything . . .

How could I . . .

Just thinking the other day how could I manage to sell on my old Citizen Navihawk and realizing afterwards what an idiot I was. Maybe it was the fact that I was still looking for new things and it wasn’t being worn as much as I liked. Or maybe it was the technology at that time and maybe it was me that wasn’t ready for it, or it had too busy a dial or whatever – I simply don’t know and that of course was as I now realize – regrettable in the extreme.
For it was a classic of it’s time and I should be wearing it now – but alas not to be . . .

My old "techno 3" - or what I thought were the greatest. But only one remains! — My old “techno 3” – or what I thought were the greatest. But only one remains!

Today of course fortunately there are models that are now the offspring of that great watch and fortunately they have improved them and not messed around with that amazing dial construction, which let’s face it was the attraction that so many of us felt at the time. My old model for example didn’t have Eco-drive and didn’t have Radio Control and it was stainless steel, though in fairness it was very neat on the wrist, as most watches were smaller than today’s counterparts.

So I thought OK I messed up last time and today I’m going to make amends for passing up a classic of it’s era. Yes I’ve decided I’m going to get myself a Citizen Navi or Sky something and it’s going to be a keeper! And there are a few around, though some don’t have that “look”and some seem larger, not as neat, so I’m being careful here because it’s important to me – this time.

At one time I had what I called my techno 3, that is the models I thought were the latest thing. The Navihawk, the Attesa and the Breitling – and would you believe of the trio I only have one remaining and it’s not the Citizens, but my Breitling.

But and it’s a big but – what Citizen model will I choose?
Well there are quite a few models to pick from and they all have little differences and at the end of the day it’s about personal preference. It’s about the one that “says” it for you and I remember so well that my old one did just that and for whatever reason. So after a lot of looking and examining and thinking how I feel and so on I have a choice of two.

Either the Citizen Skyhawk model JY0110-55E Red Arrows Titanium AT or the JY0005-50E Skyhawk Radio Controlled, Eco-Drive AT model.

Latest classic for me. The Citizen Skyhawk JY0110-55E in Titanium

Why I picked these two versions over others is just the feeling that they have the “look” of the old one with that curved bezel look, the short round buttons as opposed to the T shaped pushers others have, and just two not four plus an added crown, which eases World Time changing over the older model.

Citizen JY0005-50E A-T RC, Eco-Drive in IP stainless

I also like the different bezel grips, elongated in the first one and dot protrusions on the other which reflect the original bezel grip idea and I prefer that both hour hands are NOT skeletal (my only dislike on my old model). Functionality wise they are both identical and both models are now Eco-Drive, so no battery concerns ever and being Radio Controlled there are no accuracy issues when changing time zones, each of which is an improvement. One is Titanium and the other is IP Stainless Steel so one is lighter on the wrist, and both have short case lugs, which are wrist friendly and they’ve improved the water resistance from 100m to 200m.

The indices on both I note are heavier which aids clarity and both digital displays are slightly different in layout and smaller on the right side, but with larger digits than the older model, and with the addition of better quality anti-reflection coating inside the glass these should have better overall clarity. All good and yet without compromising that indefinable element of what attracted me in the first place.

They both in their way look right.

Which will I finally pick is down to how I feel and at this moment I’m favoring the JY0005-50E owing to dial coloration in and on the dial and maybe the bezel grips? I also note that the IP Stainless model is considerably cheaper by around £100, which is important especially as functionality is the same. Though on the other hand I do like Titanium! I also like the fact that one of them has marginally less dial text (no Red Arrows). Yikes! this is NOT easy!

It’s also true to say, that whichever one I choose, that this is one of the classic Citizen milestone models which basically has hardly changed cosmetically from the day it first appeared. Always a good point in any design is when they get it right from day one – and that’s a feat in itself.

It was a winner then and it’s a winner now.

But hey! whatever one I do pick – this is definitely a keeper for me – this time! 😉

Addendum –
The model I’ve picked (yes I’ve made my selection) will be featured as a more in depth subject of a near future Post.
One thing is so obvious when the watch is in your hand and that’s the fact it is a Citizen Classic. The wonderful analog/digital dial layout (which some said would never work) and function combination, heralded a new age in digital watches and Citizen to my mind came of age with their introduction. The addition of Radio Control and Eco-Drive to the range is a logical extension and will ensure the popularity of the Navihawk and Skyhawk to a new generation.

Seiko values

My latest trawl through Seiko watches show just how this Company are climbing up the price ladder and somehow the attraction of Astron and GPS enables models isn’t as great as they’d like to think, for me at any rate. I’m of the old school and still expect that wonderful yet innovative value from Seiko as I do from the other two – Citizen and Casio and yet looking at their web site I see some unexpected prices for Seikos . . .! Seems to be a contradiction in terms through my old peepers.

Take their Hi-Beat range at £5000 to £23,000 (yes I kid you not!) or their GPS Solar models from £1495 – £2995. And bear in mind that the technology used in these babies is advancing so fast that whatever you buy today will be out of date almost before you’ve got it out the box! OK I kid a little, but you know what I mean. So are they actually worth that kind of cash?

Anyway I brought myself down to earth (and my blood pressure) and thought – where’s the Seiko value for money?

Seiko SMY139P1 with the Kinetic module 5M83 — Seiko SMY139P1 with the Kinetic module
5M83

And I came up with this – the Seiko SMY139P1 5M83 Day and Date, Kinetic movement, Ion plated and with sensible dimensions of just 41mm x 10mm and with a bracelet. Black dial, Hardlex crystal, super clarity and lovely broad full Lumibrite (Seiko) luminous hands with a sweep center seconds hand. 100m Water Resistant case and the classic uncluttered Seiko look.
For those not familiar with Kinetic, this movement responds to the action of your wrist. It is NOT an automatic mechanical model, though it’s as close as you can get I suppose but it’s also a quartz movement. The action of wearing the watch operates a tiny electrical generator that in turn generates electricity and charges the battery. Note the battery is a special rechargeable one unlike the standard watch battery.

So you buy the watch and once out the box it may or may not be ticking. If not just wave it around a few times and it will start. An idea of function is that when you wear the watch and walk for around 750m, the battery will charge and easily last about 2 days, so this gives you the idea that as you wear it, you charge it.

On this model there is a discrete Power Reserve Indicator, not at first visible on the dial as you use the push button @2. Press that and the Second hand will move round clockwise to indicate certain positions. If it stops at the 5secs this denotes around 1 day, at 10secs will be around 10 days. The further it goes the higher the power reserve state of the battery. At 30secs for example the reserve is around 6 months and so on. And if really well charged and you don’t wear it for a year, take it out the drawer give it a waggle and it will start up again.

Note – this is not like a digital module watch which will resume the correct time using step motors and so on, as this is purely a charging system analog watch and you will have to manually set the Day, Date and Time again in the usual manner with the crown.

But what this is, is a proper value Seiko in my opinion. The technology is amazing (there is a video somewhere) and it’s all contained in a neat sized watch, which is easy to read in all light situations. It indicates the big three as I call them – that’s TIME, DATE and DAY, which for most of us is all we actually need. It can be drowned in the pool and worn under a cuff and never needs a battery, so what else do you need.

It costs around £200 and there are three versions I think – This one here is the black Ion Plated version, there’s a Stainless Steel version and one with a textile strap at £20 less.

I’m glad I found it as for a minute or two I thought Seiko had lost the plot!

Hip Hop – bit of fun . .

If you’re one of those guys into fashion, you’ll always be on the lookout for a watch that you can mix and match colors and so on, just so you’re in the groove so to speak. And the Italian Brand Hip Hop is probably a good choice.

Hip Hop HWU0177 - BLACK TIE from the Sportsman collection — Hip Hop HWU0177 – BLACK TIE from the Sportsman collection

The model I prefer out of the whole range is this one – the Hip Hop HWU0177 Black Tie model. It’s larger than most of their range at 42mm with the usual plastic/rubbery case with attitude and this has the Calendar analog module Miyota Quartz movement, so is pretty good in operation. It shows Time, Seconds, Date and Day of the week with it’s sub-counter dials. Color scheme is interesting and the hour and minute hands are bright white infilled with touches of blue reflected in the Crown and the 12 numeral. Water resistance is 5 atm.

Where it scores fashion wise is that the complete movement is held within a secondary strap/case which can be popped out of the surrounding rubbery one, allowing it to be fitted into another outer case. The case/straps are interchangeable so this is really a fashion accessory as much as a watch. Been around in Italy since 1984 and still here so they’re obviously doing something right.

Now OK this is perhaps not what serious watch collecting is all about, but it’s a bit of fun and with the Miyota movements inside are as solid and reliable as you’ll get – so why not?

There are a few mix and match fashion watches around, but this one for me is one of the better efforts – I like it especially as it is a decent size.

A single watch like this costs around £30-£40 ish and you can add to this of course, so watch how far you go before it becomes unfashionable wallet wise!

Timex – better or worse?

Every so often I check out what the latest is at Timex and have they brought out actual new models or rehashes of older ones. The ones I’ve spotted so far are not really what I wanted to see, because they are basically rehashes of older models and not only that, in my opinion they are not real improvements.
The first one I noticed is a “shock” model and is the Vibration Alarm T49984SU.

Timex T49950XL Vibration Alarm with bespoke strap.

This is basically an update my older Expedition Vibration Alarm Chronograph – Model T49854J but with added “shock” protection.
However that added shock protection doesn’t do a great deal for me as the old model was already tough as old boots and function wise they’re very similar with 3 alarms, 3 time zones, chronograph, timer etc etc. and of course the vibration feature, which I have to say is excellent and surprisingly useful on my older model.

Older model T Vibration Alarm - Note standard strap & lugs. — Older model T49854J Vibration Alarm – Note standard strap & lugs.

The downside for me however, stops me even considering purchasing the new model, because even though it increases the Water Resistance from 100m to 200m, it is not as good when it comes to the strap/bracelet arrangement. Once again and disappointingly, Timex have now built-in a bespoke strap arrangement. They’ve narrowed the lugs from the older model, which prevents the use of any standard watch strap and yes you guessed it, you’ll have to buy another one from Timex when it breaks. It might be possible to add a normal strap, but it would be a narrow one to fit the lugs and wouldn’t look so good.

So disappointing for me but very glad I got my older model when I did, because it has been excellent in every way.

As regards straps, I note their standard Expedition Base Shock models still have standard strap/lug arrangements, Dual time zones (two is ideal), 100m WR (no vibration) but much better value price wise. Indeed I have one myself (Timex Expedition T49976) in camo and found nothing to better it from any Brand – see my review – HERE

Timex also have a shock World Timer model, the T49971SU which seems impressive with some 62 cities and 30 Time Zones represented and 100m Water resistance.

Timex T49971SU World Time with 62 cities

I Like the fact it has 3 quick set Time Zones so you can prepare the watch before travel as it were, which is useful in addition to the full World Time function.
The downside for me again is this business of the non standard strap/lug arrangement, narrowed lugs and a bespoke resin strap affair. And whilst a nice watch and a good standard module function set which I expect from Timex, I sometimes have to question and this is not just about Timex, but with any World Time watch, if it’s really necessary. In practical terms Dual or maybe 3 Time Zones to me makes far more sense and rather pointless carrying all the Time Zones of the world around with me.

When I went to Brazil via Madrid from the UK, the 3 Time Zones on my old model was perfect. Before I left the UK, I simply keyed in the different times for London, Madrid and Brazil as T1, T2 and T3 – job done.

I do like the fact that Timex introduced the concept of 3 settable Time Zones, as this seems to me to be a very practical World Time arrangement, though I wouldn’t be surprised if many Timex owners didn’t realize they had it.

Sorry if I’ve rambled a bit and perhaps got off the plot here, but that’s the thing with Timex. They have so many models which appear so similar, confusion rules and you have really got to look very carefully at each model to be able to fit a particular model to your particular likes – and it’s tricky!

Indeed I thought – Ha! new models from Timex! – but after checking carefully, I have decided to stick with the ones I have – for now . . . .

Update on big “G”

Had this guy for a few months now and decided to update the experience so far. A BIG watch for me this Casio “G” Shock GA-1000-1AER from their G-Aviation series, but nevertheless a serious piece of kit with very little in the way of gimmickry I have to say.

Might look cluttered - but not so! A quick glance and you know the time - whatever the light conditions. — Might look cluttered – but not so! A quick glance and you know the time – whatever the light conditions.

Not least because unusually it is NOT an ABC watch, though it looks like it – and it’s not Radio Controlled nor Solar powered model, though again it looks like it should be. This is a battery powered model, pure and simple. I understand this is the first watch in this series to have twin sensors. It also looks as if this big and bold dial should be cluttered – but it’s not and in fact is one of the easiest and clearest Casio “ana/digi combo” models I’ve seen that manages great analogue clarity and I mean “quick glance” stuff. A quick glance in any light conditions and you can instantly read the time without fail.

The secret is in the detail of the dial construction, multi-layered with great white, almost 3D like indices and markers, in bright white plus great big hands for the analogue function, with plenty of luminous qualities to boot. The watch is also amazingly light weight, so big as it is, with the ultra thin silicon/resin strap and flat buckle arrangement it manages to fit even my average wrist at 170mm. Not a dress watch of course and not intended to be but it manages better than many surprisingly.

Multi-layered dial construction is the key to clarity. Big markers, big hands!

And for night use, it’s pretty good and maybe one of Casio’s better efforts, which is also a real plus, as NOT being a dress watch, it could well be worn in situations where reading the time in the dark is exactly what you want. A slight issue perhaps is the fact the digital displays are not illuminated and whilst a negative point about which others have commented, it appears in their respective reviews no-one’s marked the watch down because of it. So I assume like me, they find as long as you can tell the time at night or in the dark, then that’s good enough.

The interestingly figured Seconds hand doubles as the compass. That is the Digital Compass pointer – and in this respect it is excellent. The bright white arrow head pointer is cleverly counterbalanced by the long double split pivot overhang, so making this a very clear and easily read pointer for compass North. Nothing in the background distracts seeing the pointer at North, the digital upper window shows the general E,W S and North heading and the lower one the degrees of the watch head @12. Super simple and very clear to read (however if you need to use a compass at night, then this is not the best watch for you).

For me it hardly matters as I rarely use compass much today anyway, but the other watch features – Alarm, Timer, chronograph and the really excellent World Timer all work fine and are easily used – and this is where the large dial seems justified somehow.

It’s probably the biggest watch I have and I doubt I’ll ever get another this size, but it’s amazingly light, it works really well and I can easily read the time anytime, anywhere and once on the wrist it’s forgotten – until you need to know the time. So it’s a bit different, but the best part is simple – and I mean “simple” – it’s simple to read and amongst all that “apparent” dial clutter, it’s simple to tell the time – and that’s got to be good!

So basically I’m pretty satisfied with this model, though in all honesty today I suppose there is one function that maybe I’d like to see added. Namely the watch needs to be Radio Controlled. I say this as to change the analogue hands to the correct time, if inaccuracy creeps in as it will, requires you to go through a push button sequence. You have to press button A (top left) until ADJ comes up, then use button D (lower left) to cycle through the options. You then get to the time options which will flash in turn and adjust accordingly, which of course is no great hardship, but is time consuming and you have to remember which buttons to use etc. IF it was simply a case of pulling out a center crown and adjusting the hands it wouldn’t be an issue at all, as there would be no trying to remember what to do.
As I say a minor matter perhaps, but it should borne in mind when considering a model without the center crown controlling analogue indications. There will always be a digital sequence to go through to manage what should be a quick and simple operation.

But I still like this big watch and I wear it quite often – and that’s usually proof of a good buy.

My original feature is HERE for further information.

Limes Neptune series

The German made Limes Endurance series of watches has been a favorite Divers/Sports watch for some time and here I feature the Neptune 1 model U8777-LA2.2. One of it’s main features of course is the fact that it is a 100atm Water Resistant stainless steel cased model – and that’s 1000m for those into figures.

Limes Neptune 1 - a 1000m Water Resistant Sports/Diver — Limes Neptune 1 – a 1000m Water Resistant Sports/Diver

The second feature I like is the fact that it manages this incredible Water resistance with a case measuring only around 41mm diameter and just 12.6mm thick, so is also very wearable without being a large chunk of metal and on almost any sized wrist.

A deceptively simple dial arrangement in black/white with orange luminous indices and white/orange luminous hour and minute hands plus a conservatively sized Date window between 4 and 5. Note there are quite a few scales within this dial, not obvious at first but useful. There are in this range other configurations of hand/indices colors and so on but basically they are quite similar.
The well defined bezel is uni-directional and I particularly like the separate definition metal finish on the 10, 20, 30 ,40 50 and 60 bezel marks making for really good visibility. The large protected and easily gripped crown is of course a full a screw down type. Powered by the Sellita SW200 standard Automatic movement it is also therefore a very reliable and solid performer. This version comes with a good quality leather strap with contrasting stitching and stainless steel bracelets are also available.

Compact Limes Neptune Diver – solid construction

It’s another one of those rare watch models that looks so much larger than it actually is – not an easy feat in itself, which I personally think a subtle but no less valid sales point.

The other good aspect of this range is the pricing, which for the Neptune 1 here is around €740 and you certainly get a great water resistance pretty unmatched by others at this size either and for me could easily end up as a “daily beater” with no worries about where it ends up.

So yet another one of those German made watch models that you don’t see so often outside of Germany and perhaps the USA.

Their web site is HERE. and well worth a look as they also produce the Pharo and Chyros series models which are quite different in looks and function. My favorite of the others is the Chyros 3 Hands/Date – Silvered / black leather strap – Ref. number: U6017-LA1.5 but that’s another story.

Auto BIG DATE from Nivrel

Another German Watch Company I’ve always had a soft spot for is NIVREL which is a registered trademark of Gerd Hofer GmbH, located in Saarbrucken, in Germany’s federal state Saarland. They have a neat range of watches that I personally like as they are out of the mainstream and have an individuality that personally appeals. Out of quite a few I like I’ve chosen this model – the Chrono Heritage Grand Date N 580.001 which is a little unusual in layout.

Unusual movement from Nivrel - ETA 28 but with added Chrono module with Month indicator. — ETA 2892-A2 belies a secret – an added Chronograph module with Month indicator.

The movement is interesting as it appears through the exhibition back to be a non Chrono Automatic. The movement is recognized as the Swiss ETA 2892-A2, but interestingly here it is used purely as the base movement. Then Nivrel with their design individuality showing strongly, decided to add their own complicated chronograph module, the effects of which can be seen in the dial configuration.

As well as the obvious twin disc Big Date aperture @12 if you look closely there is another smaller window between 4 and 5 for a Month indication. The watch model is what is called a One-Year-or “Annual” Calendar and is adjusted just once per year on the 28th or 29th February. I personally find the dial layout intriguing and yet satisfying at the same time – and I rather like it as it’s just so unusual.

The dial is silver-coated with Clous de Paris guilloche in German silver, rhodinated applied indexes and the 6 flame-blued steel hands set gives excellent readability under a Sapphire Crystal.

Nivrel's Big Date plus Month complication ETA. Note the Month between 4 and 5 o'clock. — Nivrel’s Big Date plus Month complication ETA. Note the discrete Month between 4 and 5 o’clock.

The case is in 316 Stainless Steel with a nicely molded case crown protection swell (the crown is very well defined with a strong milled edge). Water Resistance is 5 bar and the case diameter is just 38.2mm and at only 12.8mm depth is quite neat for an automatic Chronograph. A high quality leather strap with signed Nivrel buckle completes the ensemble.

Overall this is a very neat and compact model and with it’s satin finish certainly does look the part. Additionally the short lugs arrangement allows this model to to fit almost any size wrist and is one of my favorites from the range. However it has to be said that there are other models in this NIVREL range that I also like very much, so rather spoilt for choice . .

The NIVREL range can be seen HERE.

I also featured a couple of Nivrel Calendar models HERE last February, which may be of interest.

Junkers – revival

I have a small collection of Junkers watches and as with other brands I like, every so often I check out their newest offerings, basically to see what improvements or otherwise have been added.

The Junkers Tante JU52 Automatic is one such model that has interested me since it first appeared and today’s version is no exception with that wonderfully figured “ribbed” dial so reminiscent of the Junkers aircraft.

The quality is really outstanding with its superb satin finish solid stainless steel case and Sapphire crystal, through which can be seen the clear, high contrast dial layout. The corrugated dial background with a decent sized date aperture @3, beautifully shaped Dauphinois hour and minute hands complete with Superluminova luminous in-fills are impressively clear to read (the hands are made in France). A long beautifully tapered black centre seconds hand travels majestically around the clearly defined perimeter index. Strongly defined black numerals complete the dial layout, which is signed, Made in Germany at the foot.

Junkers J52 Automatic 24 jewel movement — Junkers JU52 Automatic 24 jewel movement

Note the crown is well protected and additionally has two what appear blanking plates either side, perhaps a dual purpose case arrangement, and Water Resistance is rated as 100m – the overall look to the case however is one of solidity. The back is an exhibition windowed stainless steel screwed back plate, through which you can see the excellent 24 jewel automatic signed Pointec movement. Dimensions are a neat 40mm diameter x 12 mm and the lug to lug is short enough that this model fits the smaller wrist very well. The strap is a really high quality calf leather with two thicknesses, allowing it to be supportive near the case and yet allow flexibility at the buckle – something others should take note of, as all too often thick leather straps can be overly clumsy at the buckle fixing.

Junkers Tante Automatic leather strap with bespoke buckle.

The high quality leather strap, which is quite soft, has an unusual flat twin pin buckle and is one of the most comfortable straps I’ve ever owned.

Another feature is in the wearing. It is one of those watches that for whatever reason, just feels right on the wrist, it is extremely comfortable and a delight to wear and certainly makes me interested in enlarging my Junkers collection. It has also rekindled my love of German brand watches, which seem to have undergone a bit of a revival over the last few years – and I confess to perhaps overlooking them. But no longer, as I will feature a few more in future Posts I’m sure in the not too distant future.

Addendum – 21st July 2021

Well here we are some 6 years on and the Junkers Tante is as good as it was when I bought it. It runs as smooth as silk and as I said in the original Post, it is such a nice watch to wear. Presently, my preferred watch on the wrist for the foreseeable few weeks at least.

Interesting is the inspiration for this watch, which was from the Junkers Ju52/3m aircraft, first produced back in 1930. The designer, Ernst Zindal, used a highly controversial corrugated duralumin metal skin, as a strengthening measure and it was very striking indeed. This is shown in nice detail on the dial. This model was known both as Iron Annie and Aunt Ju, hence the name of this watch model “Tante” (Aunt in German).

The Diver 300 – Alpina

From one of the oldest and most important Swiss Watch makers comes this 300m rated Diver – the Diver 300 AL-525LB4V36 Automatic in Stainless Steel with a rubber strap.

Alpina Swiss Diver 300 with rubber strap

From an Association founded by Gottlieb Hauser called the Alpina Swiss Watchmakers Association or the “Alpinists” their aim being to develop and optimize the manufacture of movements and timepieces and the control of suppliers, Alpina came fully into being in 1901 with the trademark Alpina. High end calibres and watches really came out of Switzerland from then on as a force to be reckoned with.

In modern times Alpina made a comeback in around 2002 and have since produced some wonderful in-house complication models, such as the AL-980 Tourbillon, the AL-718 World Timer with all 24 time zones displayed in dial, the AL-950 Automatic Regulator and so forth, brought Alpina back to prominence. Now located in Geneva once again in 2013 they celebrated their 130th Anniversary.

I particularly like the Diver models, though in fairness there are a lot of their models I like, such is the quality of manufacture and design from this old Brand.

The first image shows the Diver 300 Automatic AL-525LB4V36 from the Seastrong collection, with the L-525 26 jewel movement cased in Stainless Steel, screw down crown and 22mm rubber strap. The Date window @ 3 is the moving date wheel style which I’ve always liked, as even if a hand covers the Date at least part of the wheel is still showing and certainly enough to tell the actual day’s date. Dimensions are 44mm diameter and 13mm depth, unidirectional bezel with clear markings and all numerals, markers and indexes are luminous coated.

Alpina AL-525LB04V26B with bracelet and colored index.

The same watch with alternative strap/bracelet is the AL-525LBV26B with similar specifications of course and both for me are exemplary in the clarity stakes with the matte dial background and large clear indicators – such a pleasure to see.

Of course they make quite a large range of models and a visit to their site is well worth the effort and I’m sure there will be the odd model to tempt you, certainly if you want quality and excellent design. After all Alpina have been doing this for a long, long time.

Check out their web site for the full range of very excellent models and if you don’t know the name – well you should. I know they’re always on my watch list and whilst at present I have a couple of vintage Alpina models, 2015 might be the year to get a modern one too . . . .

Web site – HERE