A Retrograde ‘look’.

Looking for something different as a dress watch – even quirky as this find shows – as I came across what reminded me a little of the retrograde style of the Maurice Lacroix Calendrier model.

The price of course very different – being around 80% cheaper (list) as it is a modern Asian made model, but it has it’s good points.
This is the ‘Thomas Earnshaw’ Retrograde rose gold model ES-8060-03 – quite a title perhaps but it looks pretty decent with it’s satin machined side plates and polished top.

The retro dial reminds me of for some reason of the Maurice Lacroix in it’s general look.  I like the fact it’s a sensible size 42mm diameter and at 10mm depth is a real bonus for the small/medium wristed, so not too big.

The hour and minute hands are nicely retrograde and well made. And I can’t fault the seconds/minute perimeter index which is finely detailed.

Overall, the dial is nicely configured with various textured surfaces, blue steel hands with small inset white dots. There are 3 x sub-dials showing day, date and 12/24 time. These are nicely made and clear and easy to read.

The advertised ‘sweep’ seconds hand at around 4 beats/sec doesn’t quite match a true mechanical sweep hand, but is the result of the Japan made hybrid Meca-Quartz movement. It is pretty decent with good accuracy and reliability.

I would note that Meca-Quartz really was/is a concept to give an accurate quartz timed watch but with a mechanical chronograph function with instant chrono reset function.

But, as there is no chronograph function in this model, it basically gives a semi-sweep seconds hand effect and is therefore described as a ‘hybrid’ MQ – so if you happen not to like the 1/sec tick of a quartz watch – this should please you.

But nonetheless, it’s a decent movement and to set it up to the correct time, it’s quite easy. Though not having instructions I guessed my way around it – I pulled out the crown fully (2 clicks) and moved it 24 hrs until it indicated the day before the one I required – then pushed the crown in to it’s mid position and quick-set the day pointer, again to the day before. Perhaps over careful, but my preference is always to set to the day before, then once happy, a simple time setting through another 24 hrs to the correct time and the current day. Then I can see how the pointers work together and also when. So, pretty simple and it all worked perfectly.

The water resistance is OK for what is essentially a dress watch at 5ATM, so OK for general wear, but I would avoid water immersion altogether.

So, overall quite a nice retro styled quartz watch, nothing particularly special about it, but if you like this different retro look – which seems to me reminiscent of the old Lacroix, as the image below of my old one shows, then it’s OK.   But of course I much prefer my mechanical ML, which happens to be a particular old favourite of mine!  🙂

Lacroix Calendrier Retrograde

 

 

Another ‘diver’ model

The ubiquitous ‘Diver’ watch seem to be all the rage today and if truth be known, they have been for some considerable time. It’s also pretty obvious why. Clearly defined dials in most of them, large hands, numerals or markers, good centre sweeping seconds hands often with luminous dot. Great luminous qualities using more upmarket coatings such as C3 Super Luminova or similar with what is termed a true ‘all night glow’. Strong watch case of stainless steel or Titanium. Decent Water Resistance from 100m to 300mm typically (sometimes better), so expect a screw down back and importantly a screw down crown.  So swimming, shallow depth holiday snorkelling and general water sports are fine.

Apart from the main players, such as Seiko, Citizen or Casio there are amore than a few now offering the same specifications as these guys. And this fact IS new and because of this fact alone are now VERY viable and affordable alternatives to the major Brands.

ChronoDivers

For example – this model from Micro-brand ChronoDivers is their CD200 SKX7 is one such alternative and a very affordable and described it as a tribute to the Seiko SKX007. The case is just 41mm diameter though very solid/head heavy at 87gms. Incidentally it’s supplied with a wave strap and a bracelet, though for me, I lightened it with a non-wave style silicon strap (as shown), so now the overall weight is reduced to just 110gms (which I weighed).

The movement is not some obscure one, but the well respected Seiko NH35A 24 jewel automatic.  This allows manual winding if needed, hacking and quick set date, plus a 40 hour power reserve.

This model features an excellent clear and uncluttered dial with a Sapphire crystal, C3 all Super-LumiNova markers, a black ceramic 120 click unidirectional bezel and 200m Water Resistance. There is a date window @3, a large well protected screw down crown @4 and all metal work is marine grade 316L stainless steel.

A nice and unusual touch is the Cabochon top on the crown in lustrous blue, the case top surface is satin brushed and the case sides polished. So not just any old case, but with a bit of style to it too. The very deep black dial background and no clutter look says it all – the classic Diver.

It’s as I say affordable and easily half the price of the mainstream players, yet with a similar specification set. So what’s not to like.

About ChronoDivers – (their web site quotes the following) –“a small family run UK microbrand specialising in the production of low cost – good quality divers watches. Final assembly of all watches is undertaken in Norfolk by the business owner and founder – Tristan Haskins. Tristan has been interested in watches since he was a young lad. His passion specifically in Dive Watches led to the creation of this business in 2019. Every watch sold by ChronoDivers is personally quality checked by Tristan before being dispatched to the customer.”

Note – ChronoDivers watches come with a 12 month Warranty – see terms on web site.

Overall – I like this watch. It’s solid, well made, excellent movement and is a nice addition to my own Diver watch collection.

 

 

A look at Lorus.

I have not had a Lorus watch for many years, but always reckoned them as good value. Perhaps not as innovative as Pulsar, which at the time was also part of Seiko. Pulsar unfortunately is gone but Lorus is still going.  Looking at their current range, I spotted a model that for once does not have the ubiquitous large bezel and as I’m not about to go diving, the more conservative bezel look is fine.

This is the Blue Sunray solar (elegant Sports) model.

A nicely balanced dial layout in a stainless case with a single crown, it has a blue coloured dial with a horizontal texture background, luminous filled broad diver style hour, minute hand & markers, with a perimeter index 0-60 graduations with yellow highlights each 5. This is an applied sloped inner ring which, with the narrow and fixed bezel, maximises the face area – and being Solar powered, this aids light transmission efficiency. It has mineral glass, not sapphire which is OK as in my experience I can’t remember when I ever got scratches on any watch face I’ve owned.  I kid you not!

The centre seconds aluminium hand is in bright yellow contrast and the Date window is a decent size @3 (instant set date). And importantly for me the dial is uncluttered, so clarity is good. The good size well knurled crown is case protected and the watch is rated as 10bar or 100m Water Resistance. The stainless solid back plate appears to be screw down, though why being solar, I can’t imagine, unless for servicing, which must surely be unlikely.

However, the two main features that attracted me to this model look good – namely the 100m Water Resistance and being Solar powered.

On wrist – looks good.

The solar module is the Epson AS32A and is regarded as efficient and reliable – with a full charge power storage time of around 4 months. Charging time for steady operation in sunny weather, just 15 minutes is required and full charge is around 5 hours and for I day operation, just 2 minutes exposure in good sunlight.

All positive so far.

The stainless bracelet is a three-fold clasp with push button release and fits to a lug size of 22mm. It is adjustable using a two prong push link pin between segments and the clasp has a 2 x position micro adjustment, which is just OK.  And this is where the first slight negative comes on this model – for me at least.

I’m not really a fan of stainless steel bracelets (I much prefer Titanium ones) as I tend to find them heavy and a bit cumbersome unless of very good quality.
This one is just average, but knowing I already had a Detomaso Ocean strap which just happens to be a great match to the dial – I fitted that instead (see image).  It also drops the overall weight down to a neat 65gms which suits me better.  Incidentally the watch case dimensions are 42mm diameter & 11.2mm height, so not small, but just manageable with my medium wrists.

All up, I think it represents a decent looking model at a reasonable price of under £100 and I was quite pleased as I opened the box on arrival (always a good sign).

I’ll Post an update to this review once I’ve worn it for a bit. Then I can say with more certainty if it was worth it – being my first new buy for some time.

As always – Watch(this)Space . . . .

 

Seiko 5 ‘Desert Kit’ Midfield Sports Style

Just thought I’d check out the mainstream competition alternative to my Cestrian Field Watch I featured in the last but one Post.

Seiko 5 Desert Midfield Automatic – 100m WR

One that has similar features is the mainstream is the Seiko 5 ‘Desert Kit’ Midfield Sports Style.

Powered by the Seiko 4R36 Automatic movement with manual wind option, it has a similar Power Reserve of 41 hours. It also looks great with a khaki heavily textured matte dial complete with Lumibrite hands and applied grey colour numerals in plus markers.  The seconds hand is grey with the point in red plus a small luminous arrow head.

The case is stainless steel and measures 36.37mm wide x 12.52 depth and is a well made solid case. The overall look of this model is more of a ‘Field’ style and the colour combination works well.

The crystal is of curved Hardlex and the case has an exhibition clear back. This model also features a good sized Day and Date window @3.

It has a Water Resistance of 10bar or 100ft and is supplied with a NATO nylon strap with proper metal keepers.

Overall this is a pleasing and solid looking model and is one of the lower priced Seiko models at the moment.

As to a comparison between the Seiko and the Cestrian, the differences are quite small –
Case – both stainless steel and similar size.
Movement – both have excellent Seiko automatic movements.
Crystal – both are excellent – Cestrian uses Sapphire – Seiko uses Hardlex.
Dial – both are excellent, clear and both feature a 24hr inner index..
Day and DateSeiko has both Day and Date, the Cestrian is Date only.
Luminosity – both are excellent – Seiko’s Lumibrite v Super-LumiNova.
Water ResistanceCestrian is 200m with screw down Crown – Seiko is 100m without screw down.

PriceCestrian is around £135 (£160 list) – the Seiko around £245 (£260 list)

What do I think?
Both models are really similar in specification and style. Each has one plus point over the other –
Seiko has Day and Date v the Cestrian Date only, but the Cestrian has a 200m Water Resistance + screw down crown v the Seiko’s 100m.  So, it’s really down to how you feel about those minor differences.
And of course price does matter.

So, considering the Seiko is twice the price of the Cestrian and particularly in this very close comparison. Especially as both models are equally as good.
But -Price and affordability matters – so, for me it has to be the Cestrian.

Note I own the Cestrian myself (see earlier Post) and worn it since bought, so obviously I like it.  For quality and value it is a winner.
What more can I say?

Darwil vintage auto

This quite unusual pattern dial model is powered by the automatic Swiss ETA 2472, 25 jewel movement from around 1960’s. In it’s day, the calibre 2472 was pretty much state of the art and this one’ date is positioned @3 and is what you’d call a ‘semi-quick’ date setting function.

Darwil 1960’s Automatic Date watch

To set the date you move the time back & forth from 20.30 – 24.00 and the date is an instant change at 24.00hrs. It is 18,000 a/h beat with 2 x Incabloc protection and a 2 way self winding rotor. It has a 42hrs reserve. And so far it’s proved surprisingly accurate – one of the reasons I love automatics.

I particularly like the sweep seconds hand being more prominent than most and the perimeter track is nicely detailed. The hour and minute hands are luminous filled.

ETA 2472 Automatic calibre – circa 1960

The case is stainless steel, screw back with seal and marked as water resistant. Unsure of the rating for this one but Darwil was known in the 1970’s for their 100ATM divers model, so I certainly expect it to be absolutely fine for every day use.

Stainless screw back with sealing ring.

Whilst there are quite a considerable number of pre-owned Darwil models around, it is rare to find one is such good condition.

Darwil started life in 1910. The founder was Darko Wilfan who in association with the Tanis Watch Company produced watches in the Grenchen Valley in Switzerland. They were later also located in Trieste in Italy and from the Darwil Palace store, sold an amazing 2 million watches at that period.

The patterned dial can be seen in certain light – certainly different!

I mentioned a patterned dial at the beginning on the Post and it tends to be seen in certain light. My last image shows it up quite well, but it doesn’t detract from the legibility or clarity of the dial when worn at all.
I liked the fact that the dial pattern ideas of Swatch and others today were beaten to it, with this 1960’s ’70’s period piece – quite modern for it’s day.

The company still trades and have a web site too – https://www.darwil.ch/watches/all/

Two Divers – Cestrian V2 & Timex Deepwater 200

When I started my old page called “Beaters, Divers and Military” it was to highlight affordable models of these categories. And I meant affordable, which of course is a speculative term and means different values to different folks.  But my rough guide was first for a decently made watch, which was available at a sensible everyday price. Now 10 years on from the first time I Posted the article (2014) my rough guide was intended to feature models costing no more than the mid hundreds at most, hopefully less.

For this Post, I decided to look at Diver models, as I have always reckoned this watch category have always made excellent “Daily Beaters”.

The First model I checked out is – the Cestrian CD911B0771 V2 Auto

 

– described as one of their Dive Series – this is the V2 Auto.
Cestrian I understand is a UK established Microbrand who offer their own branded models.

As with a many MB’s whilst their models are designed and specified in the UK, the case body is actually produced in China (as so many are) and the dial is populated to suit and then paired in this instance with the excellent Japanese Seiko NH35 Automatic movement.

The NH35 is known as reliable and durable and based on Seiko’s great 7S26 auto. It has a bi-directional rotor and is wound by movement or manually. It also is a hacking movement, so accurate setting is easy and it has a quick set date.

Power Reserve is around 41 hours and it has a dependable accuracy of around -20+40 seconds per day.  It has 24 jewels and durability is enhanced by the Seiko Diashock anti-shock set up. This is an excellent, reliable work-horse movement and a good choice.

The watch has a very solid 316 stainless steel case at 42mm diameter and 13.8mm depth and features a 120-click high end unidirectional ceramic black bezel with Luminous datum marker. Note too that the luminous material applied is grade C3 Super-LumiNova, which is as good as it gets.  This is applied to the nice super broad hour & minute hands, markers and the seconds hand tip. The dial has a clear Date window @3 and the solid well knurled crown is centred on the right of the case and well shrouded.

The crystal is made of scratch resistant Sapphire with the addition of an anti-reflective coating.

Cestrian C3 Super-LumiNova

Already it seems that there are some good quality points here that are relatively rare on a watch of this price point. A further and real bonus is that the watch is Water Resistant to 300m, which somewhat more than expected at this price point.

On the dial face the luminous markers are applied, not painted and also raised (with metal edging) so have a perceived depth to them allowing better clarity. The dial itself (on this model) is matte black and there is a choice of bracelet or strap. Models come either with a bracelet version in a 5 link brushed Stainless steel with signature fold-over clasp, though my preference is for the 22mm wide silicon rubber strap with stainless pin/buckle option.

As expected with a 300m Water Resistant case, it has a solid screw down crown. I also note in addition to the luminous hands & numerals, the luminous coating is also applied to the Datum @12 on the ceramic bezel in true Diver fashion.

So, overall a solid, well balanced and rather well featured diver style watch. It looks pretty good with what appears decent quality throughout –
AND at a price of £160 discounted currently to around £130. It comes in various colourways (with my preference shown) dial background and bezel to suit all tastes.  It also has a 2 year Warranty – all communication is local UK via Cestrian.

Value? – On the face of it, seems a viable alternative to mainstream Seiko for a third of the price, without sacrificing quality.

——————————————

The 2nd Model is the Deepwater Reef 200 GMT (TW2W75100)from mainstream Brand Timex.

Timex Deepwater 200m Blue/black dial

Once again a great looking model similarly specified to the Cestrian, as I tried to match the price as best I could.  This model is powered by a Timex Quartz GMT analogue movement. It features a matte dial with Super-LumiNova coated Hour and Minute hands and a blue centre seconds hand with luminous tip PLUS a fourth 24hr GMT red pointer luminous ARROW hand to indicate a second time zone of your choice (24hrs = one dial revolution).

The dial also has luminous markers plus 24 hour index with 12hr colour index. There is also a large unidirectional 60 minute outer bezel, fully marked plus a luminous Datum Point @12. A magnified Date window features @3 and the dial Crystal if non-scratch Sapphire with Anti-reflect coating. So clarity should not be a problem.

Timex Super-LumiNova

The solid stainless Steel case is 41mm diameter and 13mm depth and has a Screw Down Crown, fully case shrouded and well knurled for ease of use. This model comes with a blue coloured 22mm wide synthetic Rubber strap with pin buckle.

The Water Resistance is 200m and this model is priced at around £215 or possibly discounted 15% (Timex) in the UK.

So, two really decent looking Diver models, similarly specified and priced and depending on your specific tastes, little to choose between them.

To summarize –
Water Resistance – Cestrian is 300m – Timex is 200m
Screw down crown – both
Super-LumiNova – both
Date window – Timex is magnified
Stainless Steel case – both
Uni-directional bezel – both
GMT – Timex – useful perhaps but adds dial clutter perhaps (the Cestrian is very clear to read)
Power – choices – Cestrian is Seiko mechanical Automatic – Timex is Quartz analogue.

So, for a first look this year I’ve managed to pick two similar specified models at remarkably similar prices. And from completely different backgrounds. The Timex mainstream Brand versus the Private Cestrian Brand – and to choose between them is quite a challenge.

But I’m not about to pick one – I leave that to anybody interested in a new affordable Diver.

Personally I like the clear uncluttered Cestrian dial and don’t really need the Timex GMT feature. I like the fact it’s also Automatic, so no battery worries. It IS somewhat heavier and thicker, but both are very good quality cases. Both have a Date which I personally consider essential. I do like the magnified date but never having used one, I’m used to not having that and the Cestrian Date is not small and it’s clear to read. Both have top notch luminous features.
I’m not fussed whether Quartz or Mechanical Auto as one of my all time favourite Diver models (my Apeks Diver) is Quartz and I’ve had it for years without any issues.
The Cestrian really scores with that Water Resistance – 300m, which is rare at this price point. But that said, 200m is perfectly fine for the recreational diver.

However the Cestrian price makes it very, very affordable for the specification offered.

But, that said, both are really good and at either price are solid performers at very affordable models – so choices, choices!

Note – I’m due to check out some more Diver offerings over the next few weeks and I’ll Post the results as I get them. 

Cheap & cheerful Beaters

(Note the first model revised 25th April)
Just had a look around at the cheap & cheerful daily beaters. Models that cost virtual peanuts but manage do the job – to a lesser or greater degree.  There are an amazing number of these around with some exceptional bargains to be had.

In no particular order here are four models that I particularly like.

Timex – well known reliable brand has this good looking model – the Timex Expedition T42571 – seen priced at around £35 – £45 today.
Powered with a Timex Quartz movement within a neat and quite small 38mm diameter x 10mm case of very light weight dark resin. The dial has a matte background, printed numerals with according to Timex, luminous hands. However in practice this is VERY poor.
Fortunately this model also has all dial *Indiglo (press the crown) which does allow night vision (although not my preferred choice). The glass is of acrylic and has 12/24 index marked on the dial. The crown is well protected by case shrouds.

Timex Expedition with my personal wrap strap

There is also a good size contrasting highlighted date window @3 which is very readable. Water Resistance is 5bar (50m), so fine for daily use.
It also has a 20mm nylon textured buckle strap (feels a bit plasticky for me) which is fine, though I’ve swapped it for one of the wrap straps I’m favouring at the moment just to see how it looks (shown in image 2).

And finally, a 12 month Warranty.

My verdict? (after wearing for a week)
It has a pleasing well balanced look and I like this particular case which is remarkably light.  The dial is clear and easy to read.  It also has a nice sized and clear Date.  Clear outer perimeter minute chapter ring and overall, a good colour combination.  However, I’d prefer much better luminosity, so would consider it as a cheap, neat watch – it is what it is.

And with the amazing low price – a good little travel watch.


This multi-function Casio AE1299WH-1A has been virtually the same for many years (since maybe 2012). Japanese Quartz powered (10 years battery life) with both digital and virtual analogue display. Black resin squared case just 39.5mm across and around 12mm depth, with 4 pushers.  An Acrylic/mineral crystal protects the dial and the watch is multi-functional.

Classic, Retro? Value, World Timer, Gem? – the Casio AE1200WH-1AV

Time, including DST, Stopwatch, Countdown Timer, 48 city/31 time zone World Timer, 5 x Alarms with an integral LED “illuminator” dial light and with 100m (330ft) Water Resistance (so, swimming/snorkelling OK).

This is an amazingly well featured watch at any price, let alone the asking price of around £30 here in the UK.  And with such a long production run history as a testament, this is difficult to beat as a Daily Beater.

What do I like about this one?
Great “at a glance” dial – shows the hour, minute, second, day, month and day. And – a sub analogue virtual dial with hour/minute & running seconds too. All functions are simple to set with the push buttons which are easily accessible (but not accidentally). The LED dial light is simple and effective.
I’ve had one since 2014 and it’s proved a winner. Cost me £17.00, so it’s gone up a bit since then, but still great value – (and I only changed the battery last month!).
It’s also unusual – a Digital display with virtual analogue (as opposed to an analogue dial + digital window).  An obvious success for Casio, as it’s also been available for around 14 years – can’t say fairer than that. 

So, if semi-digital is your thing – I can absolutely recommend it. And at this low price is a steal!


This is another Quartz but with a slight difference, as it’s powered by a Meca Quartz VH31 Automatic Seiko movement.  This features a sweep seconds hand (similar look to a true mechanical automatic) which runs  or sweeps at 4 “ticks” per second.

Daily Beater “Field” watch – from notostrapstore.com

It is also very accurate at around +/- 15 seconds a month. The movement incorporates a number of plastic parts which reduces wear and gives added temperature resistance and has proved very reliable.

This is the Daily Beater Field Watch  – from notostrapstore.com

It features a 38mm diameter steel sandblasted case with a higher 100m Water Resistance v the Timex.
A large well knurled screw down crown, and a domed Sapphire non-scratch crystal with anti-reflection coating.

The dial has printed indices and numerals numerals on a dark background like the Timex above, though it does not have a Date display.
However, the broad analogue hands including the sweep second hand have C3 Super-LumiNova luminous coating, which is as good as it gets.
In looks, this model has a nice clear and simple Diver style and looks good.

What do I like about this one?

I like this solid basic “Beater” approach, with no frills or unwanted extras. It has good Water Resistance, a tough well finished case and an easy to read dial.  AR Sapphire crystal is a bonus and I particularly like the large well knurled crown and matching NATO strap.  The price is pretty good at around £75.  Personally I would like a Date – useful at my age!  But it is what it is.


This next model is from UK Chester based Cestrian Watches (launch partner & Authorised Dealer is WatchNation).  The Cestrian Field series Automatic which is another good looking, well balanced model. This is also the first mechanical Automatic featured in this Post.

Cestrian Field model – Automatic with personal wrap strap

Powered by the Japanese Seiko NH35 Automatic movement, this is a really decent movement, 41hrs reserve, bi-directional rotor with manual wind if required and hacking allows precise time adjustment. Accuracy is solid at +/- 20-40 secs a day. A very reliable movement used worldwide.

At 40mm diameter, it wears small on the wrist though it is quite thick at a measured 12.8mm depth, it is also relatively heavy. This is a very solid matte finish sandblasted 316L stainless steel case is PVD coated Black.

This model comes with a green NATO ‘style’ strap.  I say ‘style as this appears to have leather? keepers, whereas NATO spec’ straps are metal.
The dial is a matte dark khaki/green” with the excellent C3 Super-LumiNova coated nickel hour & minute hands. The centre seconds arrow hand has an orange tip and dot and the dial features a full 60 second track perimeter.

Cestrian 200m Automatic affordable beater

The inclusion of a scratch resistant Sapphire crystal with Anti-reflect coating, is a bonus, though oddly it sits slightly proud of the case.

The dial and case in this series comes with alternative finishes to suit your preferences.

Water Resistance is a very decent 200m coupled with a well knurled Screw Down crown. I note the screw down ‘screw’ is considerable and stiff which although unusual, works well.

Cestrian Field watch – C3 luminous – all night easy!

What do I like about this one?
This is a well specified model, without frills and is solidly practical. I like the dark khaki/green colour, which suits the black PVD coated case. The Screw Down crown and 200m WR, the Scratch resistant Sapphire crystal, C3 luminous properties and the low price, make for compelling affordability.
Personally I changed the strap for a “wrap” strap which does not go under the thick case – much better.  Note – all images show with wrap strap.

Overall, an excellent watch with real quality features and at £120 – this is a very affordable alternative to mainstream Brands.

I was quite surprised to still see the Casio model, as I’ve had the same model for many years, so to include it here was a no brainer! The Cestrian Field model co-incidentally is a recent buy for me- and I am very pleased with it.  However, I’d be equally pleased with either of the other two – as they are surprisingly good value in these trying times and nice to see.

Just a note on my strap change –
NATO style straps are fine if the watchcase is not too thick, as the strap is fed under the case twice, which in turn makes the watch overly thick on the wrist.
Most NATO spec’ straps are thin for that reason. They also use strong metal keepers. I changed to a velcro* wrap-strap, a personal preference.

Straps, Bracelets and deployments.

Of the many hundreds of watches I have owned over the years, one thing I have always taken note of is the strap, bracelet, band or wrap. Because surprisingly often, the one supplied, might not suit you once you start wearing it.

And there are so many different devices to strap to your wrist. The most common is probably a classic leather strap with a pin buckle. It should adjust to your wrist size and fits to the watch via the spring bars on the watch lugs.  Other materials can be used such as metal mesh, nylon, rubber, textile and so on.

One of the better OEM bracelets – adjustable & extendable (Breitling Aerospace 1999)

Bracelets or bands are also popular, though some are good and some oddly not made to the same standard as the watch.
The most common version is the fold-over clasp type, with a metal link bracelet (made up of metal links) attached at the watch via the spring bars and some may have an intermediate curved plate, between watch case and spring bar – to match the curve of a round watch for example – and makes it more integrated.  These bracelets are usually adjustable for wrist size by removable pins on the bracelet and often a small adjustment on the clasp too.

But if a metal bracelet is not to your liking and you like the bracelet deployment idea, then you could use fit a third party “deployment” fitting.

Leather strap with added deployment fixture (1)

This attaches to a standard leather strap. And here again, some are good, holding the watch close to the wrist and some the opposite, so check before purchase.

To fit a stand-a-lone deployment clasp you don’t even have to remove the leather strap from the watch – first – remove the buckle and pin from the strap.  Then using the existing small spring bar that held the pin/buckle on, fit one end of the deployment attachment to it (note the deployment attachment must fit the width of the strap).

Third party deployment added to leather strap – note fixing points.
Fixing point of deployment clamp using strap holes on tail end of leather strap.

Then fit the other end of the deployment to the tail of the strap, normally it’s a movable clamp with hinged pin, which you ‘clamp’ to the strap and adjust the wrist size length by moving it to a suitable strap hole . Actually very simple and saves the strap from premature wear. Just ensure the deployment type suits you.

I have always been an advocate of having a watch strap or bracelet that’s comfortable. One that holds the watch to my 65mm wrist neatly, so much so that in the past more often, I’d swap out the standard leather or rubber strap for a silicon rubber fold-over one.  These have a fold over/lock and the advantage of holding the watch close to the wrist, unlike many leather strap deployments.  Whilst they are excellent, the ones I tend to use have a slight disadvantage in that these have to be cut to fit, so are bespoke to your particular wrist size. And if you like to use your watch off the wrist as an alarm on the bedside table, they are tricky to sit upright.

Casio with silicon fold-over strap – close fit.
Neat silicon fold-over strap – holds close to the wrist.

However, I did find that with most rubber straps, mine included , over time  can become brittle.  And the initial flexibility is not quite as it was.

And storage wise you can’t keep your watch flat – it has to be on a cushion or display pillow, curled around it – and there are watch boxes for that purpose. And if thinking of the roll method for your leather strapped watches – then be prepared for a permanently curved strap – so not really the best for leather..

So, basically as some of my older silicon banded watches (the early black ones as it happens) were looking their age and not as flexible (like me) I wondered what was around that might update the look of them and maybe add some colour. But, they had to look right or why bother I thought.

Old Uzi Defender – old ring wrap-strap – (1)

I began looking at a watch I’d had for years –  this old Uzi Defender watch (amazingly good watch too) which had a nylon “wrap strap” (did I fit it years ago? no idea) or that’s what I called it.  Like another old Timex I have, it sported a metal loop ring topside with wrap around Velcro closure.
And rather like NATO straps, the strap feeds under the spring bars and under the watch. Though depending on the watch back or how thick the case is could have a similar effect as a leather strap/deployment – it can make watch stand out a bit too far from the inside of the wrist – so you have to check if it’s the right type.

Anyway, when trawling the web the other day, I found a whole series of different textile/nylon etc wrap straps, which  didn’t feed under the case, but were true wraps.

Called Sport Loops (whatever !) and the one that caught my eye was the Runostrich Quick Release or Sports Loop band. (I’m pretty sure I used to play in one!)

Anyway, as I said, a little bit more modern, very easy to fit and very comfortable, as you simply attach as a normal strap, then overlap and touch close (Velcro) to suit tightness and wrist size.  No moving parts, no metal ring and the band (sorry – Loop!) doesn’t go under the watch.

Updated wrap-strap for Uzi Defender vintage – looks OK – neater fit.

It is nicely textured and soft to the touch Nylon, so likely waterproof. It’s flexible and no adjusting required. And these particular Bands fit wrists from 160mm-210mm (6.3″-8.3″) so quite a decent wrist range. And they are available in various widths of 18/19/20/22mm and maybe smaller.
Each band comes with 2 x quick release spring bars (plus a spare) and is available in a range of colours and textures.  And you can fiddle it about a bit and it will sit upright on a bedside table at the angle you want, so very handy if you take your watch off at night – a quick glance and you read the time.

And I do particularly like their multicolour straps – though they only have a few.  Maybe because in today’s world they can reflect a bit of rebel fashion, match the watch face or your mood, whatever. In other words, change the band, change the look.  As shown on the Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition below – though the Seiko has an excellent fold-over steel bracelet – this “wrap” is just for a change.

And as said, as many of my older silicon deployment straps are/were black, with this change I can have what I like to call my “Woodstock” look.

Perfect colour match wrap-strap, Easy fit, easy wear.

And OK, this is a tenuous link to memory and maybe as folks my age seem to end up a bit drab and colourless, like the straps  – or is it me?.

Anyway- for whatever reason, it takes me back to 1969, to what was in my opinion, more colourful days. This particular  ‘mem’ was in Bethel was it? Catskills? near New York somewhere – and that was in August 15th – I mean how far back is that – ancient yes?

Anyway, there was I – a youngish long haired guy in flared jeans, a harmonica laden belt (12 Hohner blues harps & 2 bass jobs) around my 28″ waist, bare chested with strings, leather thongs, neck and wrists festooned with coloured ribbons, leathers, including back then an early Timex.

I still remember some ‘dude’ (see, I even remember the lingo!) shouting at me, “Time me, Man!” as he didn’t have a watch and I shouted back whatever the time was. Then some years later did it all over again it at the Isle of Wight, England – yikes! – but that’s another story!

And here I am again well over 50+ years later with these same colours on my wrist (it’s the colours, man) – I just love it!  Unfortunately the 28″ waist is long gone, as is the long hair and wispy beard and you won’t hear me playing “Train Blues” on the harp anymore, but well – what was . . . . . another life really!

Anyway, I’ve gone off topic (comes with age) – the included images are just a few of the watches I’ve re-strapped (looped) and I have a feeling there might be a few more before the week is out.

Note – I hasten to add that this particular wrap-strap style can look good on many watch models, but there are other considerations of course. I wouldn’t want it if I was actually diving – I’d likely stick to the original one that came with the watch. But just for a change of look, it’s basically a bit of fun and at little cost.  It can brighten up your Day.  And if you’re into “smart” stuff, I have seen them on the odd Apple watch (whatever that is?) and it looks good too).

Anyway, just a thought and I’ve fitted a few different watches to see how they look – OK for some and not for others, but they can surprise you. Fun too.

Multicolour wrap-strap on Apeks diver
Old Timex upgrade to a new ‘wrap strap’ – much easier on the wrist.
Wrap-strap with quick release spring bar – to case. No tools required.
Wrap-strap on a Seiko “Monster” – maybe, maybe not? the jury’s out, but I love the colour!

A look back at an old ‘gem’

Seeing I trawled back in time on my last Post with a favourite Timex – this time I’m looking back at a favourite Casio.

This is the understated and very affordable  Casio AQ-190W, which I first reported on back in 2015. I remember at that time I compared it against Casio’s more expensive models and was very surprised at how good it was.  It also has the dial look of the great Citizen Skyhawk, Nighthawk and Navitimer series, which I’ve always rated as an absolute classic in digital/analogue dials

This Casio is at a lower price point alternative, but has many of the same features including a 1/1000 of a second Chronometer and is ultra affordable. It is a resin cased example with a metalized clad top plate, but it is an exceptionally clear dial configuration and again being light weight is easy to wear.

In fact it fits right in to the uncanny Casio knack of making watches packed with features that manage to suit all prices.  And if you’re not a great fan of their “G” shock stuff, this particular hybrid plastic/resin & stainless/metal look model could be for you.  One thing is definite, they sport some great electronics, are easy to use, tough as any and make ideal “do everything” daily beaters.

Affordable value Casio World Time Chronograph
Affordable value Casio World Time Chronograph – the AQ-190W (image 2015)

I also have a slightly more expensive “hybrid” model already, the Casio Tough Solar WVA-470, but I actually prefer this AQ -190 model for all sorts of reasons and not just the price.  I also like the fact, it doesn’t have the over muscular lumpiness and often less than easy to use pushbuttons of a “G” shock.  The AQ-190 model is very easy to use with sleek pushers, intuitive functionality and decent dial clarity.  As I said this is all at a very affordable under £40 price tag – and function for function is great value.

It has the Citizen ana/digi dial familiarity, though slightly less busy with similar digital displays, and it functions virtually in the same manner.  The contrasting background layers, clear digits, contrast and clever use of tones makes this very clear, considering the functions shown, though the sub dial is perhaps a little reflective – a matt finish may have been better – but perhaps I’m being over critical.

With it’s excellent full World Time feature you might be excused today for thinking it was Radio-Controlled, but it’s not and nor is it Solar, so you have to remember it’s simply quartz powered. But the functions and features on this are useful and reliable and to include a true 1/1000 sec digital chronograph is exceptional.

I love the Casio and Citizen knack of “at a glance” dial that manages to show a lot of information, clearly – Day, Month, Date, analogue time, running digital seconds.

It’s also unusual to have 2 x light sources on this watch.
Firstly – It has a very bright orange/yellow dial light (not Indiglo) at 3 o’clock which reflects right across the dial, lighting analogue hands and digital windows, which is a surprise. Certainly bright enough to read the time in the dark and maybe find your way to the bathroom at night! and much better than expected, especially compared to some other dial light models.
Secondly – The analogue hands and markers are also properly luminous and pretty good in their own right.

The World Time feature is about as good as it gets.  It is really easy to adjust, without continual reference to instructions, so is a practical travel watch.
It’s simple to set the time or to select another Time Zone or indeed change from your current time to your destination time.  As the digital and analogue times are linked, you first select World Time and set the destination Zone you want, then “Swap” the digital time you’ve just set on to the hands – simply by pressing buttons A and B at the same time (that is the two upper buttons) and the hands immediately move quickly round to the new digital setting.  Your previous analogue time will now show on the digital screen.  On your return journey again select World Time, press both buttons A & B simultaneously again and job done – the times will revert once again.
Very clever and more importantly, simple to use in practice.

However, whilst just about everything on the watch is pretty damned good – inexplicably the quality of the band (bracelet) on mine, was let down by sharp edges, which cut into the wrist and this is a real shame. But easy to correct fortunately and I did just that.

And if considering a strap change, then my experience may be useful.  The watch standard spring-bar fitting is just 18 mm, but the width of the bracelet at the case is around 24 mm.  But an 18 mm strap is no good as it will look far too small in proportion to the watch.  I managed to get round that by getting a 24mm silicon deployment strap and carefully cutting two small cut-outs with a sharp knife, at each side of the strap to accommodate the smaller lugs.  It wasn’t difficult to do and it looks absolutely fine. I have used it ever since (see image).

However, bracelet apart, in terms of price, functions, features, intuitive ease of use, size, weight and style, this is a very, very good buy and it even manages a 100m Water Resistance as well – So it’s really has a lot going for it.  Note – movement is made in Japan, but cased in China for whatever reason! But with this result – who cares!

 

24 mm wide alternative Silicon deployment strap - fitted to 18 mm spring-bars.
24 mm wide alternative Silicon deployment strap – fitted to 18 mm spring-bars.

As regards Analogue/Digital models in general and especially resin case light weight models, were and are actually a great idea.

Low cost, huge functionality and I’m checking out this month to see if these are still in existence – because they should be.

However, I’m not going to include the plethora of really ‘cheap’ Asian models that appear in their droves on a few of the web sites – they are indeed cheap but rarely value for money. Often functions don’t last, luminous is laughable, clarity is often cluttered – the list goes on – so I’m not about to waste my time.

And when looking at what I call hybrid or composite models made from plastic resin and so on, where Casio’s quality is near unsurpassed, many other ‘Brands’ are a different matter. You do have to really carefully check build quality.  And even on this excellent Casio one aspect was poor – the steel bracelet – but easily sorted, but care should be taken.

So, often the really great and super value Casio models can be sometimes hidden under the radar and you may have to actively seek them out. The AQ featured was such a one.

Checking what’s similar today I found this model which only has a passing similarity- the AE-1000W-1A2VEF which says it is World Time, though also says it can show 4 time zones (are there others?) so a bit confusing at first look.

The display set up is very much Casio. And on this model, often not realised, is the fact the dial indicates both a digital time and a small moving virtual analogue hands sub-dial clock.  And that means hours, minutes AND seconds (they used this module set up on a few of their models).

Brilliant Casio World Timer Alarm Watch AE-1200WH-1AVEF

Incidentally, I have the square AE1200WH resin only cased model, which is probably my all time favourite Casio. On it’s virtual dial it also shows hours, minutes and seconds – so a small complete clock face, which is really quite useful. I did a Post on it a few years ago – the link is in the above the watch name.

I attach a small thumbnail image here just as a reminder as to how neat it was. And it is as good today as it was when I bought all those years ago and it’s 10 year battery (at least) is pretty good! Another of my favourite travel models.

 

Detomaso Diallo Blu “chrono”

Every so often I have a look at what’s on offer around the watch world.  And this time I was having a look at affordable chronographs, preferably mechanical, but came across the rather outstanding looking Quartz powered Detomaso Sorpasso. I was quite intrigued in particular by the Diallo Blu model, at first on it’s looks alone and was curious to see if this particular dial colour combination of yellow and white? actually worked out. And of course how did it’s chrono function stack up.

Detomaso Diallo Blu Chronograph – outstanding colours! But any good?

It was an inexpensive watch at just about £130 here in the UK – so did it’s performance match it’s looks?

No doubt it is a striking looking bright yellow dial with recessed sub-dials and a triple Date window scroll window @6. All contained in a rather stylish 316L ‘blued’ 316L stainless steel case. It measures 42mm diameter and 12mm depth and has the triple date indication window  – very handy if the date is hidden by one of the hands – as you can see yesterday’s and tomorrow’s date either side – This date also has very good contrast and easy to read.

According to Brand data this model features luminous hands and markers, but don’t be fooled by the marketing picture (below) showing amazing luminous hands – probably taken right after a bright light was shone on the dial – however that said, in practice I could just manage to read the time all night when I tried it out, though definitely NOT as bright as shown. But, yes this watch does have readable luminous hands & markers. So, that’s a plus.

As to the amazing colour of the dial – the hour and minute hands can be seen OK as the hands are outlined in a silver edge with luminous infill paint and the edges appear black most, but not all of the time in normal light.  The dark coloured chrono centre seconds centre sweep hand has good contrast, though not so the white tip against yellow in practice. I would prefer it to be all dark for clarity, after all it’s the tip that shows against the index that you have to read.

The recessed sub dials also have part black and white tipped pointers and again white is not effective and the fact the 60 minute sub-dial @9. Also as this dial has no detailed index, it is not so easy to see what it indicates exactly – in other words – for example the chrono has run for just over after 2 minutes, it’s difficult to confirm exactly as the small pointer indicates ‘somewhere’ between 0 and 5.  An index is essential in my opinion.
The chrono is started by a very firm push on the top right pusher, stopped by the same pusher and reset by the lower pusher. On reset the centre sweep hand runs back clockwise to Zero and the sub-dial minute pointer jumps to Zero.

Highly misleading image luminous quality

This is a feature of the Miyota 6S21 quartz movement which appears to have some of the functions of the so-called meca-quartz.  The chrono operation has a mechanical feel when operating the pushers, though for me these are too stiff and NOT smooth in operation (sometimes you press it and it doesn’t – so you have to do it again!).
The chronograph features 4 beats/sec on the centre seconds hand, so measures to 1/4 second (but with no index to really pinpoint that position) it’s simply not good enough for chronograph timing – perhaps OK for a rough time record for a parking meter?  However, I have seen this movement on other watches which have proper detail on the indexes, which is more sensible.

So for me whilst the chronograph movement is OK, the lack of a detailed printed index on the sub-dial is not.

Whilst I like the look of the watch (the reason I bought it), as a chrono it is quite basic.

Conclusion
The looks of this model promises so much more than it delivers. Yes, it looks great and it looks and wears nice on the wrist – a talking point almost.

It has a nicely finished case and as a basic good looking watch, it works.  It has a domed scratch resistant sapphire hardened glass, 5bar Water Resistance and a 2 year guarantee.  Accuracy is listed as +/- 20 seconds/month (this movement often betters this rating) and I believe a SR927W or 395/9 battery with approximately 3 years life.

But for a chronograph maybe expected something better. The lack of chrono sub-dial details are annoying and the stiff pushers I hope will ease. And those white tips to the seconds hand and sub dial hands, really don’t help with clarity – white against yellow just doesn’t work.

However, despite the Brand apparently having won a few German watch awards – in regards this particular model? – I’m not convinced.

Just noted in these images here, I ‘d been trying out various straps at the time of taking images for this Post!  And the strap shown is not as supplied.
The original strap is actually an excellent recycled plastic Ocean model with matching neon blue buckle and I apologise for not showing it, as it turned to be better than expected!
So, the soft silicon one shown here was temporarily (but with their buckle) used in place, just to see how it looked and my fault (I’m a bit of a “nut” about straps and bracelets and tend to try out various ones with any new watch).

In fact Detomaso have a range of very good 22mm wide straps, quite pricey, yes, but very good indeed and I’ve already bought some.