Minimalist small Date . . .

I’ve always had a slight disappointment with the so called modern minimalist models that appear from time to time, such as from Skagen or other Ikea inspired Scandinavian brands. Invariably they are tricky to see with very slim hands, tiny dates and dial figures, often they are shiny and reflective too. In fact they have by their presence actually steered me towards overpopulated watches that have “in your face” overkill data faces and dials, which of course is almost as bad, though not quite, as at least you feel you’ve got something for your money.

So it’s nice to see this neat “minimalist” model appear from Greyhours. This model is called the “Essential” and is in two versions – either white or black. It’s an analog model sporting a date window and a Day sub-dial and whilst it’s in the minimalist category, it doesn’t look too minimal. In fact it looks really very smart and it’s well specified too and that IS a bonus.

The case is a coated DLC brushed 316 Stainless steel and 40mm diameter by just 9.10mm, so a good size and very slim on the wrist. The dial is black/grey matte surfaced with Hour, Minute, center Seconds with a Date window @3 and a Day sub-dial @9. Clever use of color used with the Hour and Minute hands sporting white infill and the Day and seconds hands is bright light blue, giving excellent contract and clarity.

To assist clarity still further this model has good quality Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection treatment on BOTH sides. The movement is an ISA Swiss Quartz Calibre 9232/1950, personalized by Greyhours. Water Resistance is 50m and complimented by a quality Italian Calf leather strap.

My only concern with this watch is the size of the Date window which is really quite small for me and a real pity as the dial being so clean it could so easily be larger and still look balanced and very much easier to read. Despite the white numerals and decent contrast, double digit dates really need more space.

However all that said, it is a very smart watch and one of the nicer minimal style models around at the moment and they so almost got everything right, except for that date window. In fact I reckon if they doubled the date window size, they’d probably double their sales!

Price wise here in the UK it’s around the £150 mark, which for the quality of finish, the Sapphire crystal with double-Anti-reflect and Swiss Quartz movement is probably about right, though more so if the Date was larger. It does however make for a very smart dress watch that’s that little bit different.

So for me a case of nearly but not quite – but that’s just my opinion . . . . . . and please don’t ask me what the date is!

G-Shock smoothie

I have to admit that as much as I like G-shock models, some of them are so knobbly and oversize that I find them uncomfortable and sharp to the fingers when trying to use the buttons. Some are worse than others and whilst I accept this is part of the G-shock system as an outer exterior protection layer, it’s often a little overdone in my opinion.

Casio Jason g-001 - a smoother G-Shock — Casio Jason g-001 – a smoother G-Shock

Which is why I was sad to see that the G-shock Jason g-001 reprise model seems to have vanished, or certainly in the color I would prefer (grey or black). For this model presented the G-shock philosophy in a much smoother bodied manner and with it’s wrist support strap system sat on almost any wrist and looked really cool.

It was a really chunky watch and with it’s smooth outer shell it certainly presented itself as a neater Casio than most G-Shocks even though dimensionally it was still quite substantial. I particularly liked the color way as shown in this image and note how the buttons are hidden in this view, tucked into the side recesses and without the large obtrusive shrouds of the usual shock models.

This model was pretty well specified too –

Black and gray resin shock resistant case with a similar color dial with the yellow digital display. 20 Bar Water Resistance. 1/100-second digital chronograph measures elapsed time, split time and two finishes, Countdown timer with auto-repeat timing and progress beeper functions.
World time feature displays current time in 48 cities (29 time zones), Home time zone, Alarm mode (3 multifunction alarms: daily, date, 1-month, monthly), 12/24-hour formats, Standard/Daylight Saving time, Full Auto-calendar to 2099, EL backlight.

Note the wrist "appendages" which assists wrist fit. — Note the wrist “appendages” which assists wrist fit.

Digital day-date-and-month display, Black resin strap with silver-tone mesh metal inserts and black plastic buckle, black back case appendages, Black resin selector buttons, Black resin/stainless steel screw-in caseback and a mineral crystal glass.

What’s also nice about it is the relatively simple dial set up without too many cluttered distractions to worry about and at the same time a pretty comprehensive function set and all contained in a well protected and above all SMOOTH case.

For me this was one of the best G-Shocks both as the original Jason and in the reprise model that appeared some years later. Difficult to fault too though some folks report the strap/case fitting can break. Not unexpected I would say as I’ve found with many resin/plastic straps, they get brittle over time and with repeated flexing, can and do break. But as with many of these faults they are often fixable without too much trouble.

So I haven’t seen it around for a while and Casio have not re-issued it this year, which is a pity as I for one would buy it tomorrow. I still see some of the bright color varieties around, but they look too novelty for me . . .

Ah well maybe next year . . . .

Quality & Style

Quality and Style – something that Cartier has always had in abundance and yet many of the models just don’t do it for me. Possibly as the model shapes are now so familiar they perhaps breed “oh it’s one of those again” comments, which is of course rather unfair – but fact nevertheless.

But as always I have a favorite and it’s the Calibre de Cartier model which has a really modern, clean and perfectly structured look. It stands out for me in a few ways, not least that it’s very easy to read, has luminous hands and 4 luminescent points @12, 3, 6 and 9. A clever 3 date view window @3 which is handy if the minute hand obscures the date, just when you want to check it. The dates either side giving an immediate indication as to the actual date is in my view such a simple way of overcoming that slight problem.

This model is in 18ct Pink Gold and brushed Steel with a shrouded classic heptagonal Cartier crown, a decent seconds dial @6 plus a 60 minute chapter ring around the main dial in 5 minute intervals. Interestingly the numerals 4 to 8 are replaced by markers which is a subtle recognition to clarity – the large classic Cartier numerals would simply crown the lower half of the dial. So a neat touch indeed.

Cartier W7100039 view of the Calibre 1904MC. — Cartier back view of the Calibre 1904MC.

Mechanical Manufacture movement with automatic winding calibre 27 jewel 1904-PS MC and water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres /100 feet).

The case dimensions are perfect for me at 42mm x only 10mm depth, so is a very neat and flat fitting model on the wrist. The strap is in brown semi-matt alligator skin, with a double adjustable deployment buckle in steel.

This particular model W7100039 is in my opinion the best looking of the series. Tthe dial configuration is just right and feels right too, which is always a nice feeling to have. And as Cartier models go, this is not the most expensive by any means at around £7000 and is such an attractive model that I feel inclined to save up or perhaps trade in a few older watch models in the hope of getting one!

The elegant watch (6)

Three elegant offerings this week, starting with the 4 model Maurice Lacroix18ct Rose Gold ultra thins.

With delicately curved Sapphire Crystal and simply elegant dials these Automatic models are just what they are – beautiful timepieces and very classic.

Not to be outdone Jaeger Le-Coultre have this addition to the well known Ultra Thin Master Grande with this time round a black dial and either in steel or Rose Gold.

In these days of black divers and luminous requirements these dress watches are rather refreshing to see, especially when produced by these flawless quality makers.

Not to be outdone there are of course the Ladies to cater for and here the new Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye Small Second Watch is about as elegant as you can get.

The sheer sensuality of this model with it’s slender curves and oval gold case and wonderful subtlety of Mother of Pearl (I’ve always loved this on watches).

Sensuality at it's best — Sensuality at it’s best

So elegant watches are still around today, though you have to look for them as so many of today’s offerings are large and rather ostentatious. And with the prevalence of digital technologies maybe the style is disappearing from the watch ever so slightly day by day.

And to lose that would be a great pity.

Yimei Classic traditional watches consists of four models, including the 38 mm and 28 mm compact menswear ladies. Beautiful 18K rose gold ultra-thin case, covered with delicate hour, minute, second hand, highlights the essence: Time. The only additional feature is at 6 o’clock date display, pragmatic and low-key. Circular gradient silver or black dial, with rose gold plated hands, fantastic; otherwise black or white lacquer dial model, with gold or black Roman numerals. Such a gorgeous, before your eyes.

Yimei traditional family watches the appearance of calm in the exposed edge, reflecting centuries of traditional art heritage. Slim case, the beautiful simplicity of the dial, highlighting the restrained elegance watch, highlighting the wearer’s taste.

Watches with ML 155/ML 132 (men’s and women’s) automatic movement, shell thin, precise timing, a symbol of reliability, blending classic and modern design style, complement each other. Curved sapphire crystal so all the details at a glance. Decorated with the highest level of traditional crafts decorative corrugated Geneva auto hammer, snail lines and circles pattern plywood, and rhodium-plated oscillating weight, were pleasing.

– See more at: http://watchdiary.com/highlight-the-elegant-taste-maurice-lacroix-watch

Smarter AND fitter?

Whilst checking out all these proposed and often silly phone extension wrist fads and smart watches I came across a very different sort of smart watch – and OK I accept it’s not really the conventional watch, but is anything these days when considering this so called “smart” stuff?

The Fitbit FLEX - Activity & Sleep band. — The Fitbit FLEX – Activity & Sleep band.

This one is actually both interesting and also one that might just get you fitter – but only if you want to. No forcing yourself off to a gym or anything like that, but a system that tracks your daily activity, so giving you the opportunity to maybe gently improve your fitness – whatever your age. Now that should be smart, maybe, and the item is the Fitbit FLEX wrist band.

Just a plain flexible 19.2mm wide band with a few electronic gizmos inside that can monitor your activity – such as the number of steps you take, calories used, stairs climbed, distance you walk or jog (the former for me 😉 ) and an indication of your sleep quality and of course it also tells you the Time. It also can indicate if your goal (yes you can set such a thing) is being met or otherwise with little lights on the screen. It also has a chargeable battery – Lithium Ion no less that manages around 5 days at full charge and a Bluetooth connection to automatically download or is it upload your data to graphical display software on whatever device you happen to have, PC, Mac, Tablet and a whole range of smart phones too.

Within 20ft of your PC etc - check the results — Within 20ft of your PC etc – check the results

It has quite a sophisticated 3-axis MEMS accelerometer that measures your motion patterns to determine the calories burned, distance travelled, steps taken, sleep quality and all that and also has a smart vibration motor, that vibrates when alarms are set to go off.

So, it seems smarter and more useful than a so called smart watch that simply means you don’t have to reach into your other pocket to get your phone out! I mean is that unfit and lazy or what?

This FLEX watch should make you think – and might make you just that little bit fitter too!

On the face of it, this appears to be a smart watch I can should to and although it’s not billed as such (smart watch) to me this is far more worthy of such a title and at around £79 (UK) not that unreasonable either. Assuming it continues to work of course – and it’s Water Resistant to 10m.

For me, it could be the “smart” thing to buy – so watch this space! Find out all about it HERE. that is, if I do decide to get one.

Addendum – Well in the event I decided not to get one – basically as at my age “fitness” has sort of morphed into old age – and I’ll just have to accept it!

Moonstruck!

Isn’t is nice to come across a British watchmaker that really excels in making you wonder just that little bit and able to produce a watch that infinitely intrigues you the first time you clap eyes on it.

Blacklamp Carbon Schofield - Made in England. — Blacklamp Carbon Schofield – Made in England.

Such is the power of the Blacklamp Carbon Schofield –

A year of research has gone into creating a proprietary material called Morta®. This is a unique mix of hand-laid and formed carbon fibre small billets. One billet then creates one Blacklamp watch case and as such each watch model is subtly individual from the next. Plus the very highest machine specification of every watch case a showcase of world class English precision.

This model uses the very elegant and robust Unitas 6497-2 movement with a custom hack. Decorated with broad Geneva stripes and heavy rhodium plating.

Incsribed with individual Lighthouse data from around the UK. — Inscribed with individual Lighthouse data from around the UK.

Within the crown of each Blacklamp Carbon wrist watch lies a Tritium gas light. Emitting a low level glow unseen in daylight gives superb luminosity at night, but the fascinating part for me is around the rim of the dial just underneath the crystal, where lies a ring of Moonglow, (developed by NASA) an amazing strontium aluminate GLTD material that illuminates the dial in the dark. And amazingly effective it is too.

The watch is one of a limited edition of only 101 pieces and each one is named after an Englisj Lighthouse, from the Wof Rock in the South West to ST Bees” on the Cumbrian coast. Each one has the tower coordinates inscribed on the case back and description of the flash format.

It will set you back just under £10,000 this fascinating timepiece, so perhaps outside my personal budget at this time, but I certainly wouldn’t mind having one of these on my wish list. For more information check out their web site – HERE

The wonder of "Moonglow" (NASA) — The wonder of “Moonglow” (NASA)

From the Orient

Always had a liking for the orient Watch Company ever since I first spotted it many years ago in Singapore. It seemed to me at that time to produce models that were excellent as regards reliability and quality, especially considering these were mechanical, not quartz.

Of course they make both, but for me it’s the mechanical movements with their excellence/cost ratio that’s always impressed. However I would comment – for me at any rate, I always feel that their models have that slightly old style Japanese look – I don’t mean this in a derogatory way in the lightest, but in your hand, to my mind they don’t have that sleek universal Seiko “perfection” look about them. I hasten to add that this in no way detracts from the value for money of the watches at all – it’s more about my personal view on the styling and it also doesn’t apply to all models. The second model for example is about as universal/modern as you can get and is mechanical value personified!

The first one however is the elegant Orient Star Classic SEL05001S dress watch.
Gold tone stainless steel cased with a domed mineral crystal is a neat 38,5mm diameter. Dauphine style hands, a Date aperture @3 and a Power Reserve indicator @12. Typically Orient in that this model features an in-house automatic mechanical hacking movement, this is the Japan made Cal 40N52 and features an exhibition back so the movement is visible.

A brown leather Crocodile style strap compliments the case nicely.

The watch company was actually conceived way back in 1901, but known more since 1950 as a Tokyo based maker. A subsidiary of Seiko from 2001 and Seiko Epson in 2009 it’s one of the few watch makers with totally in-house mechanical movements. Within the company there are actually three brands, Orient, Orient Star and the Japan domestic range of Royal Orient.

Orient Elite FET0H001B0 100m Screw down — Orient Elite FET0H001B0
100m Screw down

This model shows the diversity of the company and this is the Orient Elite FET0H001B0 which features a Day and Date Cal 46B40 Japan mechanical movement. It is 42mm x 11.65mm stainless steel cased, 100m Water Resistance, screw down crown, Sapphire crystal with a black carbon fiber figured dial.

I particularly like the Day sub-dial feature and the smaller 24hr dial. The date window is @6, broad hour and minute hands with a center sweep seconds hand and all in a nicely balanced dial format.

Once again it has an exhibition clear back where the mechanical movement is clearly visible and incidentally the quality of the case can also be seen. It is a rather well built quality model with a complimentary figured rubber strap and buckle, the patterning on the strap reflecting the carbon fiber dial background.

Unfortunately for us here in the UK the Orient range of models are quite tricky to obtain and usually need to be sourced from abroad, which is a pity. So care has to be taken regarding the source, customs charges, delivery times and so on as the excellent cost ratio of these models can be eroded. Basically what i’m saying is that as priced these are great value models, but add in custom charges, VAT and 3rd party profit margins and personally I would have to think carefully before taking the plunge.

Hot air it’s not!

Well with that Post title it has to mean something – right? I’m talking about a watch brand I’ve always had a soft spot for and that’s the German made Zeppelin. Of course the “airship” Zeppelin actually used gasses such as Hydrogen or Helium, not Air at all – but what’s a little poetic license for my Post!

This is the Zeppelin 100yrs series model 7690M-1 with a smart 22mm wide mesh buckle bracelet which sets this chronograph off rather well, instead of the more usual leather. Powered by the Swiss Ronda 5020B Startech Quartz movement, this is an excellent and reliable engine used by quite a few mid range quality models.

I suppose I like this particular model as it is so”classic” in appearance that it just has to be good. A good size at 42mm x 11mm means it’s not a silly oversize, but eminently sensible with it’s solid satin hand finished stainless steel case, twin sub dials plus a large double window Date aperture @6. The dial is white with black clearly defined hour, minute and center seconds hands. I particularity like the extended overlap second hand which is such an aid to good reading when in chronograph mode.

The sub dials are running seconds on the right @3 and elapsed hours/minutes (up to 12 hours) chronograph readings on the left @9 with a unique 2 hand indication. Plus there is also a Pulsometer and Telemeter with appropriate graduations on the chapter ring. A solid screw in stainless back and hardened mineral crystal on the front and with 5 ATM or 50m Water resistance completes this rather stylish model.

It is also not expensive at around 260 Euros which is great value – however one downside for me is the fact that it’s not luminous – had it been that’s the one feature that would make me get one- tomorrow!

Mind you I’m still tempted!

The elegant watch (5)

Another three elegant models that have caught my eye, not necessarily new by any means but still around. The first is the wonderful Swiss Grovana Day retrograde

This is a 40mm diameter Double Date aperture @12 Date watch with a retro Day indicator @6. Sweet face in optional colors such as silver, blue or black and the 50m Water resistant case is either stainless or pink gold. with a sapphire crystal. Looks like a mechanical model but actually is powered by a Swiss quartz Ronda 7003L movement. This is a very easy to read model and certainly a dress watch that not many of your friends will know – but they’ll love it when they see it!

My second is an automatic mechanical Swiss Longines Master chronograph model L27594783 from 2011 and you can’t get much more classically elegant than this one. A 42mm diameter case, 30m Water Resistance, sapphire crystal plus a neat Date window between 4 and 5 plus a deployment leather strap – there’s always something about Longines that just shouts quality and style and never disappoints.

Third elegant offering is the Baume & Mercier Capeland World Timer.

Lovely Swiss automatic mechanical movement in an elegant 18ct case at 44mm and featuring direct reading of 24 cities under a sapphire crystal. Blue hour and minute hands matched by the blue World Time ring and the blue of the high quality leather strap.

To show the local time you select the name of the city matching your time zone then rotate the 24-hour ring to make the number representing the current time, face the city. You then move the hands using the crown.

Even the back of this model has an elegance and through the exhibition back you can see the automatics at work.

So another three genuine classics almost you could say and probably no surprise that they are all Swiss, as I think it fair to say that classical and elegance are watchwords for many of these makers. Whilst they give that almost old worldly look they in fact do feature subtle functionality often within their elegant looks and not so much “in your face” as so often the case with mainstream watches.

Whether mechanical or quartz these watch brands seem to take a much more traditional account of the exterior appearance of their creations and that certainly works for me.

What price the world?

It never fails to amaze me some of the basic, yet amazingly well specified watches that come out of Casio and because of this I’m always on the lookout for value models and this one is exceptional.

This is the World Traveler AE-1000W-1AVEF and it’s about as cheap and as tough as you need and is of excellent quality. It is also pretty well specified for a model I’ve seen costing less than £19 – which is a crazy low price for such technology. Quartz accuracy wise it’s not high end at +/-30 secs but beats mechanical movement watches hands down.

Basically it’s one of a series of low priced models with different versions, each similar functionality and all representing great value and certainly if you like watches you really must have one or two of these in your collection. As a holiday watch they’re just about perfect.

Water Resistant to 100m these are plastic resin cased and 46mm x 44mm(dia) x 14mm and weigh only 40 grams and have a 10 year battery life (CR2025). Full auto calendar and displays the time in over 48 cities and 31 time zones with quick select multi 4 city display of your favorites. Stopwatch and countdown timers, 5 alarms, 12/24hr switching, LED back light and mineral crystal glass. Very easy to set and use with an excellent and clear positive display it probably, if we’re all honest, provides everything we actually need from a watch. In fact I wonder sometimes why I bother to collect other models at all!

Not a lot to dislike about this model, though I would probably change the strap (I don’t like these rubber/resin “wave” straps as they hurt my wrist) for a silicon deployment – I’ve done this on others as it’s easy to change and then it’s about perfect.