The Cartier contradiction . .

Cartier and bargain are hardly words you would immediately associate together, indeed you might say they are a contradiction in terms – but in this instance you would be wrong!

Whilst I have a couple of old vintage Cartier models, there are two models that always interested me and still available today. Both models, that for myself and others who own them, are both conservative and understated and which do manage that trick of being Classic great buys, whether pristine and just out of the box, or pre-owned. They are, I suppose, models that always tend to sit just under the radar in the “must have” stakes and yet for me personally, out of all Cartier models, these models rate as the definitive Cartier Classics, and given the opportunity, they are a must have.

Maybe one of the reasons why one of my Cartier Tank Solos, is often overlooked, is because it’s quartz, with a stainless steel case and a quality leather strap on a slim deployment. And as Cartier sometimes do and my particular preference, there’s nothing added here, no gold, no diamonds, no frills – instead just a rather deceptively simple “tell the time” dress watch, that somehow, effortlessly, manages timeless elegance with a quiet and discrete Cartier quality.
Elegant in the extreme and dimensionally very sleek in a classic Tank “style” case, this is my compact one, measuring just 27.5 mm x 34 mm and a super sleek 5.6 mm depth, so very neat, compact and dual purpose, as it suits my wife too.
And both models feature the Tank profile that has a flat upper surface profile, which somehow accentuates the sleek look of these models, a subtle change, yes, but one I personally prefer over the rounded profile of some models.

You might also be forgiven for thinking this quartz Cartier is much more expensive than the fact. This is the surprise!
Because even at the retail price, it’s definitely a bargain. Pre-owned, you can get them for around half the retail, at around £1200 and for the date version add another 50% and you’re not far off.

I also have a XL (extra large) 31mm width x 41 lug to lug Ref. 3800 Solo model, which includes the Date and is an Automatic, not quartz and between the two, it’s probably my favourite, with no battery to change – so out of the drawer – a slight shake and we’re in business.

In fact I was so taken with these, that at long last, with a year between them, I firstly bought the quartz (my version is the later 8 year battery one), then the Automatic XL model in a burst of, ‘I’ve just got to have them’ – though in fairness one of them was a present.

Both watches were pre-owned, the condition basically as good as new – and on the wrist – they look really good!

So, elegant, slim and sleek, both absolutely, undisputedly, Classic Cartier – what could be better?

FM202 Dome watch

The Feice FM202 Automatic is another model from my affordable mechanical automatics, which has an interesting look. Simple white face on which rotates blue hands. Hours, minutes and seconds, Plus a Power Reserve indicator, so you know, how long it has to run – without either simply keeping it on your wrist, or winding it – your choice.

The Power Reserve is 35 hours or there about. Note too, this is also a hacking movement.

The movement is an automatic mechanical, 28 jewel (possibly SeaGull), which can be viewed via the transparent case back. Now a few years back, on a budget, I would have much preferred a Miyota (Citizen) movement, as early SG and other Chinese movements suffered from poorly finished parts (pallet fork, escape wheel etc.) and often lacked proper lubrication. Quality control was not the best. However, today I now have a few watches featuring SeaGull power units and to date, have had no issues with any of them. As to the accuracy, these appear to be on a par with most of their competitors. In fact, there are a few Chinese manufacturers (Lioaning Peacock, Memorigin & others) that in recent years have had freedom to go their own way and really improved in both design and quality.

As to this particular watch model, it has to date, performed well, and certainly as good any other in my affordable and mid priced collection of mechanical autos.

The case is 316 stainless steel, 42mm diameter and 11mm thick with 20mm wide lugs, so it takes a decent strap on conventional spring-bars – therefore easy to swap, should you so wish. Also the finish quality is OK, so no complaints on that score either.

On the bright dial, the upper sub-dial @12, indicates the Power Reserve, the lower sub, the running seconds and date window are @6 and all can be seen very clearly through the rather fascinatingly named ‘2.5D Arc Hyperbolic Mirror dome’ crystal, which apparently is both scratch and wear resistant, which, so far, seems to be true.
Note – the Mirror Dome crystal tends to make the watch appear a little thicker cased, than it actually is.

Water Resistance is rated 30m, typical dress watch and basically means splashes (always sounds better than it is), though this is another story, where Official classification tests citing these descriptions can seem quite misleading, if you’re not into these things. In other words, use it as a daily beater in normal circumstances by all means, but don’t go swimming with it, ‘cos it might not manage that too well. The standard ‘swimming’ classification is rated 50m and it should be remembered that these are based on static laboratory tests and not in the real world.

For further information a good explanation of Water Resistance ratings can be accessed here – https://blog.crownandcaliber.com/what-does-water-resistance-in-watches-mean/

On the wrist at 42mm diameter – the maximum for me.

This model version came with a rather hard leather and stainless deployment mechanism, which for me is usually good reason for change. This deployment convertor like many has an annoying fact, in that it makes the strap stick out from the wrist – thus making it look clumsy and likely to catch under a shirt cuff, and the first (fixed) strap keeper is so close to the mechanism, it gets me fiddling around to unclasp the thing. Now there are much neater deployment mechanisms around, so this was disappointing.

Calf leather strap replacement – neater than original deployment.

But easy to fix with standard lugs, and I’ve fitted a nice Birkinstock supple calf leather buckle strap and the watch is, in my opinion, much the neater for it (as shown).

Overall however and swimming limitations aside, this model is a rather good looking watch. It certainly has a look that’s a bit different It works well and if you like this look and it’s not to big for you at 42mm diameter, then it’s not a bad choice – and it is reasonably affordable.

Addendum – I forgot to say, I already briefly mentioned this watch in my “Elegant watches” page some time ago, but said little about it – well I liked the look of it so much – I bought one – so consider a closer look as done.

Thoughts – After wearing this watch for a while, I realised it has something much, much more than just the look, though the soft calf strap in combination, has a definite comfort factor, there’s more.
The fact is, I just love wearing it and I mean this in a way that’s difficult to explain. But I’m wearing it alternatively with my daily beater (Breitling Aerospace) of the last 20 years, that is the FM202 during the day and later I change to the Breitling, basically as I like a luminous watch when it gets dark. It’s that good and certainly this doesn’t happen very often – if ever. I can say no more!

Junkers – revival & update

I have a small collection of Junkers watches and as with other brands I like, every so often I check out their newest offerings, basically to see what improvements or otherwise have been added.

The Junkers Tante JU52 Automatic is one such model that has interested me since it first appeared and today’s version is no exception with that wonderfully figured “ribbed” dial so reminiscent of the Junkers aircraft.

The quality is really outstanding with its superb satin finish solid stainless steel case and Sapphire crystal, through which can be seen the clear, high contrast dial layout. The corrugated dial background with a decent sized date aperture @3, beautifully shaped Dauphinois hour and minute hands complete with Superluminova luminous in-fills are impressively clear to read (the hands are made in France). A long beautifully tapered black centre seconds hand travels majestically around the clearly defined perimeter index. Strongly defined black numerals complete the dial layout, which is signed, Made in Germany at the foot.

Junkers J52 Automatic 24 jewel movement — Junkers JU52 Automatic 24 jewel movement

Note the crown is well protected and additionally has two what appear blanking plates either side, perhaps a dual purpose case arrangement, and Water Resistance is rated as 100m – the overall look to the case however is one of solidity. The back is an exhibition windowed stainless steel screwed back plate, through which you can see the excellent 24 jewel automatic signed Pointec movement. Dimensions are a neat 40mm diameter x 12 mm and the lug to lug is short enough that this model fits the smaller wrist very well. The strap is a really high quality calf leather with two thicknesses, allowing it to be supportive near the case and yet allow flexibility at the buckle – something others should take note of, as all too often thick leather straps can be overly clumsy at the buckle fixing.

Junkers Tante Automatic leather strap with bespoke buckle.

The high quality leather strap, which is quite soft, has an unusual flat twin pin buckle and is one of the most comfortable straps I’ve ever owned.

Another feature is in the wearing. It is one of those watches that for whatever reason, just feels right on the wrist, it is extremely comfortable and a delight to wear and certainly makes me interested in enlarging my Junkers collection. It has also rekindled my love of German brand watches, which seem to have undergone a bit of a revival over the last few years – and I confess to perhaps overlooking them. But no longer, as I will feature a few more in future Posts I’m sure in the not too distant future.

Addendum – 21st July 2021

Well here we are some 6 years on and the Junkers Tante is as good as it was when I bought it. It runs as smooth as silk and as I said in the original Post, it is such a nice watch to wear. Presently, my preferred watch on the wrist for the foreseeable few weeks at least.

Interesting is the inspiration for this watch, which was from the Junkers Ju52/3m aircraft, first produced back in 1930. The designer, Ernst Zindal, used a highly controversial corrugated duralumin metal skin, as a strengthening measure and it was very striking indeed. This is shown in nice detail on the dial. The aeroplane was known both as Iron Annie and Aunt Ju, hence the name of this watch model “Tante” (Aunt in German).

Heavenly De Bethune

I’ve included this amazing piece from De Bethune as it seems to fall pretty much into the sphere of Art and whilst it’s ostensibly for ladies, at 40mm diameter it suits me very well, especially if I was into astronomy! With hand-polished and blued titanium, the sparkling twinkle of the white gold and diamond stars, and the muted glow of the curved blued steel hands . . . . . this is no ordinary watch.

The round sphere of the moon is set with diamonds and sapphires galore (plus Sapphires too) so a bit above the daily beater class, but hey – sometimes you’ve just got to splash out! I love the fact that you can have the star-studded sky personalized on request according to a specific geographical place and even date!

The movement is automatic (self winding), twin barrel with a 6 day reserve, with a special triple shock absorbing system, 27 jewels and 28,800 vibrations per hour and a silicon/platinum balance wheel – just shouts a technically excellent and serious piece of kit and very impressive.

Do I like it? – YES!

Can I afford it?- eh . . . . NO!

Would my Wife like it? . . . .actually she said – NO!

You have no idea how that pleases me and the reason is she tells me, that she prefers numbers on her watches, otherwise how can you tell the time – she says . . .!

Isn’t that sweet!

😉

DeBethune, make some amazing watches and complications that to coin a well known phrase, simply reach “where no man has gone before” (sorry Star Treck) – but they are quite astonishing – and if you have to ask the price – maybe they’re not for you – or me!

Classic Expedition update July ’21

An early vintage digital Expedition Timex is featured in this post, dated around 1998 (80 M745) in pretty decent all round condition. The digital display is clear and basically as good as the day it was bought. Classed as a Chronograph model the features are more or less what you get in the current Expedition models.

1998 Timex Expedition digital display normal daylight.

Digital display wise – Standard view is along the lower part, hours, minutes and seconds plus an AM/PM indicator and the upper part shows Day, Month and Date. Using the lower left pusher or “mode”, this changes the display in turn to Chronograph (with slit/lap timing), Alarm, Timer (100hrs) and 2nd Time Zone, in that order. This model also features a 12/24hr display option and an Hourly Chime. It has a night light (Indiglo) using the top left pusher which is on as long as the pusher is pressed. All setting is done using the lower right pusher and the top right pusher selects Alarm on or off etc. So quite familiar really to anyone used to using these digital display watches. Note in the images shown here the display shows grey background and black numerals when light is not being reflected off it, however its almost fluorescent when the light strikes at some angles and then appears very high contrast green background with black numerals.

Timex digital display in reflecting light - gives fluorescent contrast — Timex digital display in reflecting light – gives fluorescent contrast

In most conditions it’s pretty good though as most of these, the top data can be slightly over-shadowed by the black surround of the watch face. Still featured on some current watches, though I note many now have a visible face area wider than the numerals, so avoiding any possibility of shadows.

It’s a very neat watch at 39mm diameter and only 9mm depth, so a good bit smaller than current Expedition models. It has spring bars so you can fit any standard strap to it, though it actually measures a slightly non standard, but gettable, 19mm width. I have a Timex “E” quick wrap strap fitted and it is perfect and comfortable.

Timex Expedition on the wrist - very neat. — Timex Expedition on the wrist – very neat.

In a dark almost black resin case, light grey bezel with printed pusher data, the back has a stainless steel plate secured by 4 x corner screws and has it has 100m Water Resistance.

1998 v 2012/13 - watches are getting bigger. — 1998 v 2012/13 – watches are getting bigger.

Some of the older Timex models like this one, for me, are often nicer to wear than the present offerings. Only 15 years before the current stuff (an age in electronics of course) the displays funnily enough tended to be neater, as are the watches which were smaller and slimmer and yet managed to portray the excitement of the new Digital age without bulk or large knurled or knobbly bits here and there. They were and still are science fiction in a way, because they’re ground breaking and the core function and the attraction of the watch is not obscured by too much over the top and perhaps unnecessary Dr Who extravagance. Note this model has a battery life of around 6.5 years.

I might yet add more to my digital collection, though perhaps it could be more appropriate to call it my Timex collection, as I seem to be acquiring more of these by the week! Whatever – I’m sure it won’t be the last!

UPDATE – 4th August 2014

Started to get a little erratic this morning and I decided to check out and hopefully replace the battery – assuming this was the problem. Removed the 4 back screws and realized this was a different style of module that I am used to. The center part is a round cover which is actually clipped on to the very large CR2016 battery! The cover is held down by 3 screws to the module board. Simply removed these and un-clipped the battery from the cover once it was in my hand. Replaced the battery by clipping the cover over it, then dropped the cover and battery assembly on to the board, lining up the 3 screw holes and screwed it back in place. Writing on the cover says to “press this” to reset after battery change, referring I think to small metal contact on the module. However on turning the watch over I saw that the digits were indicating fine, so skipped that instruction. Replaced the back of the watch and set the time data. All functions are working perfectly now including the back light, which actually was the first problem I saw prior to replacing the battery. Instead of lighting, it indicated code and altered the time setting to 12:00. This I suspected was the lack of power – hence the battery change today. It took me about 10 minutes start to finish.

Sorry I didn’t think to take photographs, but suffice to say it was very easy to manage.

UPDATE – 16th July 2021

Well here we are some 7 years later after the last battery change. The watch is still working perfectly, display showing just great and a testament to the longevity of this classic Timex Expedition watch. The only thing I had to do was correct the day from the 18th to the 16th (today) and re-adjust the time slightly – it was 5 minutes fast – which is not bad after 7 years from an early quartz.

Classic Timex Expedition still going strong.

Through and through.

My previous experience with a skeleton watch was some years ago (long gone now) and have to say, it just never lived up to my expectation. Mostly because the whole dial was so taken up with a trellis style frame, which held the movement in place, I struggled a), to see the movement properly and b), to make out the time.

Now OK, I get the point that the function is really to show the inner, rather than the outer, but that particular watch, just didn’t do it for me. You don’t need a frame holding the movement getting in the way and with a solid a minute/hour index around the circumference, again obscuring the view, then it’s not really skeleton at all.

But, as with the nature of the beast – as they say – skeleton is skeleton.

However, the watch in my opinion has to look good and different too, so design has to be an important consideration. I’ve also seen so called skeleton models with quartz movements, where quartz and movement are for me a contradiction in terms – the only moving parts being the hands and maybe a cogwheel? which seems hardly worth the effort.

However, I was intrigued by the modern look and style of what’s called the ‘full hollow’ design – and this is the CIGADesign ‘Forbidden City Ceramic Edition’ automatic skeleton – and right from the shape of the case, to the material used and the overall design, this just seems that bit different from other skeletons around.

Soft silicon buckle strap for extreme comfort

It’s a nice size at 41mm x 41mm, has a proper Sapphire crystal over an intriguing and beautifully crafted made, subtly dark, high strength Zirconia full hollow ceramic case. And being hollow, pretty much the whole movement working detail can be seen from either the front or the back, so a true skeleton. It is coupled with a quick release 22mm ultra soft silicon hi-colour strap and buckle. Very comfortable to wear too.

Front view & movement – CigaDesign Hollow skeleton

It’s also pretty good value compared with many and cost effective, in that it’s powered by a SeaGull ST1646K, 19 jewel Automatic mechanical movement. This features a 40 Hour Power Reserve, 21,600A/h and with an accuracy of -15 to +30 seconds per day, which once settled in and running on the wrist can be pretty decent.

Designed by Zhang Jianmim, the Design Brand Founder from China, it belies those who still think China watches are somehow inferior – this one is a very decent watch, from the inspired design to the very different, modern look and a high quality result.

This model comes in three colours – Dusk Blue, Midnight black and the one featured here is Sunset red.

Rear view window – showing SeaGull Auto rotor

At first meeting, in the flesh, as it were and on the wrist, it certainly appears as a rather stunningly attractive watch. The design has also been approved by the Industry and has both the Red Dot Award and the 2019 German Design Award.

As to clarity – well that’s always the issue with any skeleton watch. The fact that skeleton has to be see-through and the outer hands are the time indicators, it’s tricky. My personal test is to give the watch a glance – if I can quickly read the time, it passes, if not, it doesn’t. This model has silver flat hour and minute hands, also skeleton surprisingly and fortunately they tend to shine – so are just OK visible – so after a little wearing time, getting used to it, it might just pass my glance test. But the jury, it has to be said, is still out on this one. The sweep seconds hand is coloured red which should help.

The rear window view of course is not obscured by hands anyway and you can see the entire movement quite clearly.

SeaGull ST movement – (image **Ciga**Design copywrite)

In conclusion, it’s a comfortable watch on the wrist and a nice size, fits under a shirt cuff easily and when noticed, is always a talking point around the dinner table. The hi-colour strap first catches the attention, then as the dark ceramic case and skeleton dial come into view, it’s usually, “Ooh I like that, where did you get it?”.

So, as said, this is my second skeleton model and yes, perhaps a little different to the usual. The CigaDesign full hollow skeleton a rather nice addition to my eclectic collection of watches and nice to have – PLUS – this one was affordable, looks good – and I have to admit, it suits me rather well – what could be better? Well – that’s the question isn’t it?

In all honesty, I’m still unsure as to this skeleton idea, mostly because by it’s very nature, it is simply not as easy to read as a solid faced watch. And that’s the bottom line. It’s a personal choice at the end of the day, though for me, I think in future I’ll stick to solid dials – I mean my old eyesight ain’t going to bet better is it?

Note – All mages on this Post are taken of my own watch, except the exploded view of the modified SeaGull ST movement used in the watch model, shown here to the left, which is copywrite CigaDesign web site.