Stainless scratches

Ever had a watch that’s been kept in a drawer full of metal tools for years?  Well I came across two recently and these were as bad as I’ve seen.  The cases were scratched, crystal/glass almost opaque and the watches generally pretty filthy. Now I could maybe understand this if these were owned by a jobbing builder and were just the result of concrete dust, walls proximity and heavy manual work – it happens – but these two were my Brothers and he worked behind a desk!

But, being a follower of watch auctions, this is not even unusual – some of the watches are awful.

So, seeing these were so bad, I decided to have a go at making both watch cases looking a little better, or that’s the plan at any rate!   Now I’m not overconfident on this, but surely I can improve these somehow, without damaging them further. I mean, Hey, it’s hardly rocket science is it?  Mind you, I have seen the results of a few attempts by friends to do just that – and being honest – I couldn’t see much difference after they finished!  Anyway, I’m going to take it slow and see if I can at least improve and maybe reduce/remove some of these scratches.  My advice however, is try it out on some old watch that is due for the bin anyway – just to be on the safe side!

I should say now that as I’ve just found these, I have not a photographic record of before and after – yet. . . . But if I manage even a little success, I hope to Post images at some point in the future.  And what if I don’t, I hear some of you say? – well you can draw your own conclusions! Ha!

Tacklife Rotary tool

Of course to manage anything you need to have some tools and although you can do some work without, it’s really fiddly just with fingers.

So, I checked around the Internet and found the Tacklife 3.7v cordless Rotary tool (so much easier to use without a cable getting in the way), so no cable and the tool is only around 6″ long, quite thin, light weight and really easy to use. I used to have a Dremel some years back, as it was all the rage when it came out – but I was never impressed that much and found it clumsy – the cable being too stiff and just got in the way – but this new tool is really neat.

This comes in it’s own little box with an assortment of bits and things that do most anything I want.  I like the fact, it has two (2) changeable bit holders – their own one which is small and one that fits standard Dremel bits – so really useful when looking for tool bits.  The tool seems powerful enough for purpose and has 3 speeds from 5,000 to 15,000 rpm and has enough bits for anything you might throw at it.

Being so keen to try it out, right out of the box, I just took one of the scratched watches in my left hand and the tool in my right and started using it. (how amateur is that?). Now OK, if I wanted to get serious then I’d probably either clamp the watch or the tool and be a bit more professional and as it happens, taken a bit more care!

Now to be ultra cautious, I’m starting by using a small buff plus a little of the included grinding/polishing compound, basically as it incorporates a fairly gentle abrasive and is about as non-invasive as you can get.

Simply select the speed setting for you and have a go on the scratched stainless surface of the watch case and you should start to see results. It only took me around a minute or so on each of the upper and side surfaces.  I hadn’t even removed the watch strap (which, of course, you should do, as the polish compound won’t do it much good), but in my eagerness I thought I’ll just give it a few goes and see what happens.  And in the event after a few minutes the improvement was actually obvious.  After a few more tries I upped the speed a bit as I grew more confident, but whatever suits your hand skills.

Tacklife Rotary tool – neat, cordless and powerful enough

Now I know to remove deeper scratches on stainless steel it’s probably better to BE bold – but with care on the edges and corners of course – and can certainly give decent results.

You then start from a new sheet or surface as it were and use finer grades of abrasion each time and then polishing compounds to get to that mirror scratch free finish you are seeking.  BUT – I’m starting out here from scratch (excuse the pun).  So softly softly . . .

I can also decide how far I want to go and maybe say – OK that’s a big improvement, I don’t need to do any more – OR once I’ve had a bit more experience I’ll go the whole way, but that’s a decision I’ll leave for now.  OR, horror of horrors, say – Jeez this is worse than I thought – and well I never liked that watch anyway – and bin it!

But after just 2 minutes of Tacklife use as a first phase it’s improved the look already.

So, it seems obvious that with this kit and other abrasive compounds and surface bits, there is little that can’t be achieved with this simple set up and stainless watch cases should present no problems at all.

For Gold cases however before I started I’d definitely read up on it from someone who knows that they are doing. You certainly don’t want to remove too much Gold. Bad enough with solid Gold, but for Gold plate, then less is more, as they say, plus a bit of common sense.

Fortunately, I have very few watches that have a scratch problem, but the odd one that does find its way into my collections, I can fairly confidently look forward to at least improving these to my satisfaction enough that I’m happy to wear it.

This is not the first time I managed a case clean-up, as I did one well over a year ago from my Wife’s watch box (what does she do with them!)  And this was long before I’d even thought of a Post like this and unfortunately, I didn’t think of photos at the time, so no photo was taken “before” I started.  But I’m happy to report the watch looks pretty decent now and my Wife is happy enough to wear it – so I think it’s passed inspection!

But as always – watch this space.

Note – I hasten to say that I’ve no vested tie up or commercial connection to the rotary tool used – it just happened to be the one I picked at random on the Net, that seemed on description to maybe be ideal for my purpose. The fact that it worked out OK for me, was and is a bonus.  

Art Deco – enamels

There’s something about Art Deco watches and enamel that just go so well together and as I was digging around in my Wife’s collection I found these.

A trio of Elgin Parisiennes from the ’30’s – perfect!

A nice little trio of Elgin Parisienne models from the 1930’s, each of which is a neat design of watch and coloured hard enamel decoration.  Brought out as a marketing idea by Elgin, these were designed by mostly Lucien LeLong and were giver specific names of Haute Couture designers of the day in Paris

Names such as Louisboulonger, Agnes, Jenny and Premet etc. and some whilst featuring wonderful designs of hard coloured enamels also were often cased in 14k Gold filled cases, sometimes with semi-precious gems added within the overall design. And they sold really well in those days and quite affordable too, even then.

These are usually powered by the Elgin 488 mechanical 7 jewel movements with Breguet hairsprings and my Wife has maybe six of the Elgins, plus a few Gruens, Bulova, Fortis, Benrus and if I recall right, Mildus? and a few others whose names escape me entirely, but all of them are decorated with coloured hard enamel.

What always fascinates me is that as watches, they all still work and work rather well and the enamel colours are as bright today, as the day they were made. After all most were made around 90 – yes 90 years ago, rarely serviced and they’re still ticking along – Wow!

In short supply these days and I should take the time collate them properly and manage a Post featuring all of them, which should look pretty good.  I hasten to add that she wears each and every one of them, in rotation and although the Pandemic lockdown situation currently has curtailed her social activities somewhat, they still get wrist time.

But once we’re out of this nightmare, then perhaps the ‘Parisiennes’ and others of the day, will be on proper display again.

Anyway, just to brighten up the site, I thought I take a quick snap of this trio, as they were the nearest to hand.  I think they look good and so wearable even today, as I find many of the current ladies models look rather dull and lacking any pizzazz, so nice to get them out every so often, just to remind me of past times.

What I love about these watches is that they are NOT specifically “cocktail” watches (I hate the term). They are not festooned with sparkly diamond bits surrounding often over-elaborate mini dials. The Parisiennes are everyday wear watches and very often with some superb enamel work for added colour. And yes, they look great at any so called cocktail.  And recently I met a 19 year old who has one – who delights in telling everyone that it’s over 5 times her age! And she doesn’t need a wall socket to charge it either!

Bauhaus by name

In my last Post I referenced a few of the Bauhaus styled watches around at the moment.  Each trying to emulate the philosophy of the German Bauhaus movement earlier this century and showing how this could be represented in watches.  And the trouble with the Bauhaus criteria of Form, function and structure, results in a minimalist style, which does not allow much in the way of variation.  So, many of the watches, by definition, can look very similar.

Bauhaus Classic 2162-1 Auto Calendar (stock image)

However, as a retired person, whilst I like the simplicity of a straight timekeeper, I do like to know what the date is and if possible, the day too.  Those of you who are retired, know that weekends and weekdays are all the same – no differentiation – as our working week is long gone.  So, how to fit this in to my love of Bauhaus style watches, when their dials are often taken to semi minimalist extremes.

And this shouldn’t really be a problem, as Bauhaus is NOT truly minimalist, it is more what I would call, ‘functional simplicity’.  It needs what it needs to provide it’s function, clearly, and without too much in the way of that which is not needed. If you get my meaning.

And for me, my own favourite, the Bauhaus Classic 2162-1 Automatic Day/Date watch does it rather well and for reasons not immediately obvious.

It’s a decent size without being too large, at 41mm diameter and 13mm depth.  The case is really very fine in polished 316L stainless steel with a 5 bar or 50m Water Resistance.  The dial is somewhat unique in that it has two-tone hands – the minute one, being in red, plus a full size centre seconds sweep hand and a date only window @3. AND it has that nice, wide, full Day indication @12. So much better that the usual abbreviated style. I confess to always having a fascination for the full centre seconds mechanical sweep hand, rather than a sub seconds layout, which you barely notice.

The numeral fonts are also small, so a departure from most of the other Bauhaus offerings, which in this case adds to it’s discretion, and dial text is also quite small and thin and therefore non-intrusive, which I also like.  And to make things even better – the entire set up is very clear to read, assisted by the subtle emphasis of the thicker width black hour hand.  So not just a clone of so many other Bauhaus watches on offer today at all.  In fact a lot of thought has gone into this model.

Bauhaus 2162-1 Automatic (real photo, on my wrist – today!)

The movement is the 21 jewel Automatic Citizen/Miyota 8285, with a 42 hour power reserve. It has quick date setting and supports hand winding too, so all in all, a really excellent choice of movement.
Some descriptions refer to this watch calendar as Fecha, which in this instance I can only guess means the Day is separate from the Date, but I’m no linguist.

The crystal is an Extra Scratch Proof K1 mineral and the watch has an exhibition back, through which you can view the movement. The strap is a medium thick 20mm fine brown calf skin leather and on the wrist it looks very stylish.

There is also a quartz Bauhaus model, the Classic 2140, which has a date only @6.

Bauhaus Classic – Ronda 505 Quartz

It is powered by the well known Swiss Ronda 505 Quartz movement, though personally I find the mechanical automatic is more in keeping with the Bauhaus idea.  But it is very affordable and in my opinion, if quartz is not an issue for you, then with it’s very neat and precise dial, it is a real alternative to the Bauhaus rivals listed in my previous Post.  And it still features these clever hands.

Both models are Made in Germany in Ruhla, where Iron Annie and Zeppelin watches are also produced.  The POINTtec Company manages the entire line and it’s not the first watch I’ve had from them.  What I have found is that every watch (6 to date) I’ve had from this stable, has given me many years of exemplary service.

In my own mind, I consider that the Bauhaus brand watches featured here, are a step up in overall design from any of the ones featured in the last Post.  Whilst the Nomos Tangente is the best of them, the Bauhaus 2162-1 in my opinion is superior to all of them.

However, both Bauhaus branded models featured here, have something about their under-stated design, which is difficult to beat and the 2161-1 as I say, transcends even the Nomos.  The small numeral delicacy and the two-tone asymmetric width hands, just lifts the watch into a much more considered and refined category.  And yes – absolutely, to another level. The designers here, have really, really thought about the details and have managed that subtle and elusive ‘something’ extra.

Personal I know, but in the end, that’s what it’s all about and maybe the rivals have forgotten that having virtually the same dial, same fonts, same straight hands and plain white background, maybe isn’t the be-all and end-all of what makes a watch ultimately attractive to the buyer.

There’s always that ‘something’ – that draws you in – and whilst all are attempting to reflect Bauhaus, it maybe takes a little more than just more of the same, or just copying what others are doing.

For me, I think the Bauhaus Classics here manage that ‘something’ – very well indeed.

Addendum

So, what would I do to improve the above models?  Well, to be perfect for me – a slightly enlarged date window and a 28,800 A/h ticker would do it
Splitting hairs and unfair, I know, but . . . . .

Best Bauhaus? – The Bauhaus 2162-1 is my No1 and my No2 has to be the Junkers (see last Post).

Ressence – disk

Been around for a while now, though this is the first time I’ve actually come across it – possibly as maybe I’m not in the right financial bracket – but anyway – it is a fact and not for the first time, that  an old idea, such as disks instead of hands, comes to the fore, but more than often with little success.  Perhaps another reason why it’s never taken my attention.  – until now –

This time – Ressence have managed to turn this re-invention into a super modern concept that actually manages to excite an old guy like me.  I mean, let’s face it, so many variations of portraying time can be either silly, overly complicated or darn right ludicrous.

The super cool Ressence Type 1 – Orbital Convex System – copywrite Ressence

Not so with this wonderful high quality model from Belgium – the Ressence type 1 watch.  The first time I saw it I was hooked – it is just amazing!  It’s a true mobile display that works on every level for me.  Clarity is superb and so easy to read, day or night, instant calendar information, Date, Day, am/pm, hours, seconds and all in a truly inspired case, with a setting system that is both innovative, efficient and seemingly easy to manage.

The Ressence Orbital Type 1

The featured one is the Type 1, which I assume is the simplest of them and there are 5 models in all, each with a different aspect and look, but with the same integral patented three-dimensional complication or ROC – the Ressence Orbital Convex  system.

The image here just gives an impression of the look.  CHECK OUT the following link –

HERE

It gives you an idea of how it moves and gives a glimpse into the amazing system that could be on your wrist – though unfortunately for me – way out of my price range.

And the Type 5 is just something else!  Especially underwater!  You can see it HERE – amazing!

But I can dream!

Notethe images/ link are property & Copywrite of Ressence and I show them simply as reference to something special – I’m in awe!

Feice Bauhaus – Budget or Bargain?

A name synonymous with the German art of structure, form and function, so persuasive that way back in 1919 to 1933 in Germany, the School of Fine Arts, espoused that form should follow function, without the unnecessary – in other words, a sort of minimalism.  But importantly “without stifling design” – and that phrase so important in the world of truly Bauhaus described watches.

True Bauhaus – the Nomos Tangente Automatic Date watch

The Brand that for sometime now has one of the best of Bauhaus tradition is Nomos – specifically the Glashutte Tangente. And it’s well known as a high quality model that manages to command quite a price too.  With it’s in-house mechanical Automatic movement, something of a rarity these days, it also manages to be of a nice size at 39mm diameter.  Sapphire crystal, neatly cased in high polished steel, I show it here as the standard to which a new contender has to aspire.

Now the Bauhaus philosophy is quite well catered for in the watch business – rivals to Nomos such as – Stowa, Sternglas, Junghans, Junkers and Seagull come to mind and there are others such as Panzera, Nordgreen or Aristo and so on.  Most are not as expensive, though the cheaper are often Quartz powered, which for me doesn’t quite gel with the ideal of Bauhaus – I feel the concepts of Form, Function and Structure without the unnecessary, seems to get lost in the static world of electronics – but maybe that’s just me.

Feice FM201 Bauhaus Automatic – more than a copy?

The Bauhaus concept for me is alive in a way that the solid state world just isn’t. Some, for example interpret the Bauhaus movement as a sort of Danish minimalist design, which (I have some myself) and I always end up personally disappointed, because they are so- minimal – and if I’m honest, a little bit barren, dare I say, like furniture – not that Danish furniture is uncomfortable, but I like to see the comfort too, with comfortable surroundings – but again, is that just me?

And this is where the Bauhaus concept is so interesting, by design and in the feelings it gives the wearer.  There’s something both comfortable and comforting – and invariably mine end up on my wrist more than most.

I like them, specifically the automatics.  Firstly, as they are alive and secondly, you simply wear them and they are part of you. No batteries, no winding and no fiddling around.

So, although I had heard of them, still a bit of a surprise when I came across the FIECE FM201 – in person, as it were.  Bauhaus style, Automatic, with understated Date indication and owing to the derisory price I assumed Quartz.  I mean – the Fiece is around £150 – and the Nomos near £2000! Now that! is a hell of a difference!

I can understand some of the price differential, as the Fiece sports a Chinese modified movement. Those clever Sea-Gull people at Tianjin in China managing the tricky business of combining mass market methods with increasingly decent movement quality – not easy.

So, as it often happens, it all comes down to Quality v Price.

Of course, much depends on your definition of quality.  To some – if it ticks and keeps decent time – then that might be good enough. To others, it’s about “look” and finish and detail and what’s inside and so on – very subjective indeed.  And in this particular instance we dare not forget that it’s all about the Bauhaus philosophy too – which is about Form and Function and Structure, and no unnecessary bits – Gets tricky doesn’t it?

My Junkers ‘100yr’ Bauhaus, with Miyota Auto 9132 calibre, 28,800 A/h – a favourite classic for me.
Feice FM201 with Sea-Gull Auto movement

As to Sea-Gull movements, I used to have reservations, in the past, when their assembly procedures were not so good. In those days you might get a good one, or a not so good one, though ironically the movements were very good.  I do remember they benefitted from a good clean and service, which instantly elevated them right up there with the Swiss ETA calibres.

However, changed days now and their movements are well respected indeed and have come a long way from the Citizen/Miyota origins – incidentally my own Junkers Bauhaus, shown here features a very good Miyota 9132, 28,800A/h Calibre.

Both Miyota and Sea-Gull have become synonymous with mass availability of excellent automatic movements and can really challenge the ubiquitous Swiss ETA2824-2 automatics.

I applaud them both, as Quality, Quantity and Price are a tricky balance to manage, so no mean feat.

BUT, that’s not the topic for here – suffice to say that “Made in China” doesn’t always mean cheap and cheerful.  What it can show is that very decent watches are now widely available to everyone – and that’s a good thing.

But for Fiece, the idea of using the Bauhaus concept and promoting globally and espousing – Form, Function and a certain marketing seriousness, hasn’t hindered them in their mass market approach and by increasing quality is a real bonus.  They have carefully followed others with this trend and with some success.

Their Bauhaus ‘homage’ models are attractive enough for me to check them out – and so, I bought the Fiece FM201, and it’s definitely better than expected.

My Feice FM201 Bauhaus 38mm on wrist – Budget or Bargain?

In comparison to the Nomos, the dial text/font clarity and detail is good, as is the Date aperture (though smaller than my Junkers).  The hands maybe not quite as delicate, but also good and maybe overall, the dial isn’t quite as – shall I say – ‘fine’, but it’s still very good.

But as always, my observations are subjective.  As to the movement – well OK Nomos is certainly highly regarded, but the Fiece FM201 Sea-Gull is pretty decent and with no internal traces of fingers or dust or skin flakes.  It also has some evidence of oil (that’s good), so it appears the old Sea-Gull shortcomings of the past, may well be long gone.

Or have I just been lucky?  No, I suspect today, they have definitely raised their game.

And as to how it looks on the wrist and for timekeeping – it looks pretty darned good – and it certainly does look ‘Bauhaus’.

So – Budget or bargain?

Well, I would have to say – bargain.  It has the Bauhaus look, it’s nice to look at, it works well, suits the wrist and it wasn’t expensive – so what’s not to like!

Of course, there will be detractors who will accuse yet another Brand of producing another “homage” or even a “copy” (and let’s face it, there are many models out there that are close copies of others – right from the top down).  Some are near fake category, but that’s taking it too far and such an accusation only valid if their offering was “made to deceive”.

Personally, I like some of those listed here and there are some good Bauhaus styles around. However, with each trying to have that “look”, the result shows that their options are somewhat limited in how they look in reality, so copy accusations are easy to assume, rightly or wrongly.

Me? I’m just a punter, a guy who likes to buy and wear pleasing watches and I like Bauhaus style.  So, from my point of view it’s all academic.  Selfishly, it simply means I have a greater choice of models and Brands to choose from and in a wide price range too – and it is just that – personal choice.

The Bauhaus concept has no doubt spawned an attractive range of similar styled watches (you either like ’em or you don’t) – and there are bargains to be had.

Addendum

It should be noted that Tianjin Sea-Gull watches also make their own Bauhaus watch – which is shown here – and it is very well priced too – this is the Automatic D819.612 without date.  Nice size at 39mm and 9mm depth with Sapphire crystal – slightly slimmer than the Feice but I like them both.

Latest – However – I do have another Bauhaus, not shown here, which I will feature in another Post quite soon, that for me, has a certain ‘something’ to it, that really appeals – so watch this space!

Sea-Gull Automatic Bauhaus Watch – D819.612

Heat by Nixon

The last digital watch I noted from Nixon was the Regulus, which was fine, but whilst it promised all sorts of features, at the end of the day for me, it was simply too bulky and too fussy.  But of course that’s a personal issue for me, though I have always liked matrix digits.

Nixon ‘Heat’ digital

So I was really pleased to see “the Heat” – which is a very neater and slimmer digital matrix watch with a low profile, 2 simple front mounted pushers, hardened mineral crystal with its 30mm x 8mm super slim stainless steel case, coupled with a 20mm injection moulded rubber band (perforated design for durability, breathability and comfort).

It features the time of day, day/date and an auto calendar to 2099.  Additionally it has a chronograph function, 6 pre-set timers plus 2 custom timer options, plus a custom “SEND!” notification when less than 60 seconds remain.

It also has an EL backlight, so night time is no problem.  It also sports a second time zone should this be needed.

The night EL light can be selected in any mode by simply pressing both pushers together.

I also like the buckle arrangement on the strap, as this style invariably means it’s secure and looks good.  I also particularly like the colour of this one, which is a sort of bronzy, which sets it apart from the ubiquitous black.

So, I love the neat size and it has enough useful functions to honestly use and the price is not unreasonable.  Though personally I doubt I’d use many of the functions, which is sad – it seems as I grow older, knowing the time and the date is about all I need.

But regardless of my ageist comment, for me it meets the “daily beater” criteria nicely and that’s a consideration that some, these days have forgotten.  You wear it and forget it, basically.  Glance at it occasionally and you immediately see the time, the date and to manage that – you have done nothing but glance at it.

Sometimes simple, simple is the best and today that’s no bad thing.

Pricewise here in the UK it’s around the £150 mark and it’s about as no frills as you can get with a digital watch these days.

Wrist cuff watches

For those who are not really into watches, but are into wrist cuffs, the featured JewelryWe watches (4 colourways) should fit the brief.  Known imaginatively as Watch Cuffs, it really is the price that’s truly amazing – and that’s maybe around £10 each. . . .

Cuff watch

The leather strap/cuff of each is a different colour and from a fashion conscious guy, really quite smart – and it tells him the time without referring to his Smart Phone – now isn’t that a novelty!

The watches themselves are pretty basic, quartz and the metal is just, well – metal – but they do tell the time and I have to say, they actually look pretty good.  They each weigh just 54 grams, some 1.5 inches diameter and the dials are quite clear and protected with eh – glass.  What I’m saying is, these are basic timekeepers, but as with almost any quartz powered movement these days, they are quite accurate enough for day to day wear.

JewelryWe wrist watch cuffs.

Anyway as wrist watch cuffs or straps, I like them and I like the fact that they are really NOT expensive and are not silly looking (some are) and they are what they are and if you have a damaged wrist – and I sprained mine the other day, they are great as a brace, so a nice coincidence that I spotted them in Amazon.

Actually there are quite a few different styles and Brands there, though these basic versions suit me fine and in fact the more I see them, the more I’m getting in to them.  Reminds me of a long time ago, when a lot younger and I actually remember wearing wrist leathers.  Of course way back then I also used to ride motor bikes – a fact that was brought to mind the other day, when an old pal of mine turned up on a brand new Husqvarna 400cc motorbike – I mean this guy’s no chicken, but acting like a teenager with two tails and loving it.

Now he didn’t have a wrist cuff on, but before he left, he was sporting a watch cuff – one of the set of 4 I’d just gone and bought!
And then he looked really cool!

Am I a trend setter or what?