Movado – Watch space

An interesting watch Manufacturer Movado and with some styles from the past that have always interested me, this one I recently obtained is such a model – that I couldn’t resist.

1960's Movado S Kingmatic Auto Sub Sea model — 1960’s Movado S Kingmatic Auto Sub Sea model

Without doubt the best dial gents Movado I’ve yet seen, this was a must purchase. 1960’s vintage with a Movado Cal 395 – C Automatic movement. This is their famous Kingmatic Sub Sea model with 28 jewels and running as sweet as it did when new this sort of mechanical marvel never fails to impress me. Over 50 years and still perfect it has a neat 34mm diameter gold micron plated case, centre sweep seconds and applied gold numeral markers on 12, 3, 6 and 9.

Movado "bumper" Cal.395-C movement — Movado Cal. 395-C movement (this is a stock image) – I will update later.

As you see the above image shows an immaculate Cal 395-C movement with the classic Movado rotor assembly, Incabloc shock protection in a very neat layout. The Calibre number can be seen clearly at the foot of this image and note the Movado “Top Hat” plate atop the rotor. Obscured by the rotor it also states Movado Factories, Swiss and 28 jewels. Lovely action too this rotor and quite silent in operation – this is a class item indeed.

Full stainless screw back with Movado logo set.

The stainless steel screw back has a full Movado medallion logo set with Kingmatic S and the 4 horse chariot design in the centre. Sub Sea and 28 jewels are the other markings on the back. The crown is the original Movado logo and the lugs are set to fit an 18mm strap, which in this case is a nice quality though non-original Condor stitched leather variety with gold colored buckle which sits it very well.

This model like so many of that time is that nice size so favored by many of the classic watch makers @ 34mm which allows it to fit most wrists easily and neatly. For me every thing about this watch is just right – beautiful face, great look, slim, elegant, perfect size, lovely automatic action and a joy to wear.

The Kingmatic automatic model (and the Tempomatic before it) took the watch world by storm when it first came out in around 1962 and the Kingmatic was made probably till around 1967. The Company started off life way back in 1881, the name “Movado” meaning “always in motion” in Esperanto the Company has over 100 patents and over 200 awards and still operating today.

This is now my third Movado and my second mechanical model – I have also a Quartz and all have impressed me very much. The quartz one also has a highly individual dial face and a certain neat quality – and I can now see where the heritage comes from. This Sub Sea model especially with it’s rather unique face, it’s sleek movement and beautiful condition is my first purchase of 2013 and will certainly be on my wrist on many, many occasions I’m sure – and that surely is as good a testament you can have for any watch.

A new addition to my collection is this very tidy two tone (pre-owned) Movado. Slightly smaller than a Patek Philippe Calatrava this is a neat gents or unisex size, but it’s perfect for my 165mm wrist and as I like it so much – I’m afraid my wife will miss out on this one! Not much data on it but dated perhaps to around 2000 though possibly earlier and model name unknown, but is signed MOVADO logo on the face and a sub reference to the ESQ range on the back. Unusually it has a 14kt Gold filled rotating bezel (not quite sure why) atop a stainless steel polished, slim case, but this watch has real presence.

It had a coloured leather strap when I bought it, but I decided to fit in it’s place this nice Hadley 12kt gold filled expandable bracelet with contrasting black enamel panels which cried out to meet up with this gem of a watch. And they do seem to get on very well together.

I’ve always admired Movado watches and this is my first one and OK it’s quartz and not mechanical, but I really don’t mind, as it’s the style of this one that so attracted me. Well defined blue steel hands against an unusual and delicate eggshell blue face with Roman numerals at 12. 3, 6 and 9, then gold applied chapter markers leading outwards to very neat and individual minute index block numerals (5 minute intervals + single minute markers in black). I like too the red 60, 15, 30 and 45 marks – it’s really a beautifully set out dial with the MOVADO logo @ centre 12 and a discrete “Swiss Made” at the foot. A contrasting white coloured seconds sub-dial @6 with a gold coloured hand completes the dial detail.

Movado02 — Stylish Movado with Hadley bracelet

Topped off with a 14kt gold filled unidirectional milled bezel marked in 12 graduations and a @12 centre datum gives the watch a nice solidity and contrasting two tone colour scheme against the rest of the very finely made stainless steel casing. The flat sapphire crystal is virtually reflection free, though I’m not aware of an anti-reflect coating.

That solid look makes it appear in the images like a much larger watch – in fact the dimensions are neat at 32/36mm diameter and a slim 7mm depth.

The movement is a high end Swiss quartz 13 jewel with a 1.55v lithium battery as the power source and good for 3 years at least. Stainless steel back with the ESQ logo, Water Resistant and model/serial numbers completes the details of this watch.

I did have another strap – high quality camel leather one in brown which would be an alterative (much better than the one I bought it with) which would match , but I have to confess I love the Hadley bracelet on it and whilst I’m not normally a fan of expandable ones, this one looks great and is really comfortable – once past the hairs issue ‘getting’ it on, so it might just stay as it is.

In fact I am absolutely delighted with this watch and I’m sure it will be one of the “dress” watches in my collection that I’ll never tire of wearing – and that’s surely a very good recommendation for any watch.

I also haven’t found out too much about this model at all. What model is it? What year of production and what price would it have retailed for?

As usual, anyone out there who has definite model information – I would be very grateful to hear from you. . . .

Update –The ESQ or Esquire range was launched as a subsidiary by Movado in 1995, but unable to find much reference to the early model names.